Hi John, This area is really taking shape and looking gorgeous and as you said, when the extension happens, that is indeed going to be a beautiful long straight section! Looking forward to next installment! Keep safe, Derek.
John, Always enjoy watching you do scenery work. I pick up a tip every time and get to enjoy the picture you create at the end. Thought I was buying baseboard this week, but saw a Stanier Black 5 for sale at Rails of Sheffield for a good price, so the board can wait! Regards Stephen.
Very useful and timely tips about clearing ballast from points and inside of track. I’m having severe problems with running around the layout and think you may have solved the problem for me. As usual, a great video. Thanks John.
Thank you, Im pleased it was helpful. I would go through every point then with a coach or wagon, scrape out debris as I showed then with an old trushbrush scrub each point with isopropyl alcohol. Test after with a train, if you hear grinding at any point scrape, scrub and clean those areas. Hoping thats helpful
Thank you Luke, I see the layout as a number of zones, which are miles apart from each other. In other words the scenic breaks do the work for you. Hope that makes sense
Hi John, that made a huge difference. That section looks great. All the ballast, trunking, foliage really makes it pop. I like the way you camouflaged the point motors. Great stuff. See ya next time.
I had to use two of the surface mounted point motors for a similar reason to you, John. I think once you get them in an ballast around them they are not so noticeable. Much easier than trying to align a point under the layout. Good to see this area getting ballast and scenics. I have a complex run of point and double slips waiting for ballasting at the front of the layout. My worst nightmare is to glue solid a double slip. I can't put it off much longer so good to see how you do it. Stephen
Hi Stephen, yes we can’t always avoid using the surface mounted point motors. I just didn’t get on with the PL 10s they just didn’t switch properly, but these PL11 are very easy to switch. I know what you mean about the double slip, but you could give the mechanisms a squirt with WD40 first that would protect the point, keep checking it I sure it’ll be fine. I’ve only ever had one point gum up completely and had to replace it, but that was in my early days and I used go very gun ho then. I certainly don’t now
@@piccadillymodelrailways I found the gaugemaster surface mount point motors brilliant as they have a manual switch so you can test and they not bad in price too. Since watching your video I am thinking of using them more thank you for the advice.
Hi John, great scene you have going there. with N gauge the sand is ideal i can see that the finish you get is very realistic. trunking idea may come in handy....take care Tony
Really looks good John. At first I thought that you weren't going to insert sleepers in the gaps, but you have done in almost all of the places that you have ballasted, just a couple of gaps seems to have been missed. I am not critising as I am sure that as I progress with my 00 layout I will miss some as well.
Hi thank you. I filled as many as I spotted, the camera had a different view to what I saw. I will fill future ones as required but really not that worried about it. Thank you for taking the time to comment
Nice one John, you've done that area really well, as you said, learning from previous techniques, you can see the difference and covering those points looks great. Enjoying following your progress.
Coming on good...regards the point motors, I had the same problem but got around it by building a small staff halt similar to the one that used to be at Mottram Yard, works well and perhaps an idea for the future? Look forward to the next installment.
Hi Steve, thank you for taking the time to comment. I’ve used a variety of methods, relay box staging, burying them in platforms, retaining walls, as you said. Lots of things. On this occasion with the two points opposite each other I was reluctant to build them up as the could of looked like columns of foliage rising out of the earth lol
Absolutely Euan I think sand looks great, cheaper than chips, and easy to lay. Colours beautifully. I used woodland scenic ballast on my OO, awful stuff, it’s coconut shell and resistant to staining, had to spray. The Javis ballast was amazing because it was ground stone. Strange isn’t it?
I know what you mean, but with some care should be ok. Of all the many many points I’ve ballasted only one broke after being laid, but gratefully it was a quick simple swap out as the ballast had not dried out. Even if a point does stick just soak the mechanism with water and spray with WD40 once the glue has softened. That with lubricate the mechanism, casting any water. Just clean rail heads throughly after with IPA.
the one thing that scares me, the patience for balasting and glueing it all down, it is alot of work and effort for me haha, that is really neat i like how you have covered them really well i thought the clip moved onto them being removed at first haha,
Hi Geoff thank you I appreciate your support. The sand was actually play sand as it’s been cleaned and quite fine for N gauge. Sharp sand has lots of bits grit and alsorts in it. It works well.
Hi John great job do you want to be RUclips friends 😂 lol I got the same message. Anyway fancy forgetting to put the sleepers in 😂 easily done as you try to get on, done the same and had to quickly put them in. It looks fantastic John. The colours really work. I thought you'd left the black drops on the top line to represent where a diesel had been sitting during some kind of track maintenance. Great job John and again great tips especially as I've all this to do on my main lines and yard. Cheers Andy
Thanks Andy, as always. I just delete those bot messages no, usually have silly name and a cartoon. The black spots were from unmixed paint. 9/10 the paint glue method works beautifully, but occasionally needs touching, airbrushing, spotting, up or modifying in some way.
Using sand for N scale ballast is an interesting idea; I like the "N scale person, holding it in their hand" thought - maybe a good way to judge scale accurately. I'm not *entirely* convinced about the final appearance but I guess we all do things differently.😁 I'll certainly consider using sand though, if I ever get my layout started. I suppose there are as many varieties of sand as there are brands of ballast and, by adding paint at an early stage, there are endless colour possibilities too - even *before* weathering etc. I've only recently subscribed and I'm still getting to know Piccadilly; it's a fair old size.😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Thanks Dougie, I do think ballasting is a personal thing and we do indeed do things differently, so we do have to choose the direction to follow on that one. I’ve used paint in the ballast mix for years now and occasionally does come out nicely, other times some extra work is required. It’s a kind of random approach within each micro area, as you don’t always know how it will dry. Yet at the same time control over the general look. On my OO gauge layout I did use a ballast mix from Javis and added sand to make the mix go further, the sand falls to the bottom in the main, leaving stones on top. The whole idea of the layout is to give the impression of a vast area, with the viewer viewing each zone as miles apart from the zone next to it. Surprisingly the bulk of the layout is only 6’x6’ with an extra 4’x 2’, in preparation for the extension in the future. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@piccadillymodelrailways It looks *way* bigger than that. 😁 I suippose, with all the scenic breaks, it's hard to get a true idea of the layout's size, especially on camera. So many layouts, of all scales, have a *narrow* dimension(8 x 4, even 10 x 4) that making it square(ish) gives you a lot of extra space, not often seen. Even huge exhibition layouts tend to be long and narrow; you're lucky having that extra space. Apart from anything else, it means you can get away from the standard oval shape. The more I watch your layout, the more I like it. It's very *different* in so many ways.👍
As usual you did a great job, I always say put color in your plaster but I like the idea of adding some to the ballast too....thanks for sharing....Jack The motors are not that injectable once camouflaged...👍👍👍
Thanks Jack I’ve used coloured the ballast for years now love the variety of results. Sorry not sure what you mean by ‘injectable’ in this context. Thanks
Hi, thank you for taking the time to comment, sorry N gauge ballast (or fine) is good for OO gauge, IMO. A single piece of ballast should fit comfortably in the hand and an N gauge person is only 12mm from head to foot, so their hands are around 1mm so ballast is much smaller again. At the end of the day we each do what we prefer, that is good as then no two modellers nor layouts are the same.
Hi, how you colour / weather the ballast is your choice. There is no right nor wrong. I think it is quite important to choose the right size of ballast. I use kiln dried sand for N gauge, and a very fine one for OO. Remember one piece of ballast can be held in a persons hand. Personally I apply the ballast with a spoon and smooth with a 1/2” paint brush or slightly bigger. The idea is to clear the rails off the sleepers, no higher as it can stick to the rails and cause derailments. I tap the rails periodically with the spoon as this helps settle the ballast into the rails. Charlie from Chadwick did an excellent video which I’ll link below. Spray track with Isopropyl alcohol then apply glue with a dropper. For the glue mix 50:50 PVA and water then ( you can add a drop of washing up liquid instead of Isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have any). I then add brown / grey paint to the mix so track is partially weathered with the glue mix. You don’t have to. Pure PVA is fine. You can weather the track after/ paint rails IF YOU WANT TO. Your choice. When glue is dry check points move ok, and trains run smoothly over track. If not use a small screwdriver to remove ballast partials. Repeat as necessary until trains run smoothly. Finally use a track rubber to clean track as there will undoubtedly be dried PVA on surface with could interfere with electrical contact. Track rubbers work so well. Charlie’s video: ruclips.net/video/NmTRff-SOXg/видео.htmlsi=SaUwTFe4-U48teOq
Awesome John coming along great keep the updates coming mate 🍻🍻👍🏻
Well done !!! thanks for showing us how 👏👏👏 👍👍
Great clip. Good job. Your layout is looking amazing!!!👍
Hi John,
This area is really taking shape and looking gorgeous and as you said, when the extension happens, that is indeed going to be a beautiful long straight section!
Looking forward to next installment!
Keep safe,
Derek.
Thank you Derek
Looking good John, always interesting watching you and learning from your videos.
As always John an excellent result ………...…….Cheers Kev
Excellent again John...all the best mate, Chris
John, Always enjoy watching you do scenery work. I pick up a tip every time and get to enjoy the picture you create at the end. Thought I was buying baseboard this week, but saw a Stanier Black 5 for sale at Rails of Sheffield for a good price, so the board can wait! Regards Stephen.
Ha ha ha, I know what you mean abt the flash sales, all very tempting. Thank you for your kind comments, I had lot of fun doing it.
Very useful and timely tips about clearing ballast from points and inside of track. I’m having severe problems with running around the layout and think you may have solved the problem for me. As usual, a great video. Thanks John.
Thank you, Im pleased it was helpful. I would go through every point then with a coach or wagon, scrape out debris as I showed then with an old trushbrush scrub each point with isopropyl alcohol. Test after with a train, if you hear grinding at any point scrape, scrub and clean those areas. Hoping thats helpful
Such an amazing layout. So many tracks everywhere yet it doesn't look cluttered. Amazing how you did that.
Thank you Luke, I see the layout as a number of zones, which are miles apart from each other. In other words the scenic breaks do the work for you. Hope that makes sense
Hi John, that made a huge difference. That section looks great. All the ballast, trunking, foliage really makes it pop. I like the way you camouflaged the point motors. Great stuff. See ya next time.
Great job. The color variation in the ballast is well done. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Larry I’m glad you like it
Nice work John
Morning John
Nice job 👍
Morning John great work again, this area is really looking good, look forward to the next update mate
nicely done looks really good all the best al 👍😁
I had to use two of the surface mounted point motors for a similar reason to you, John. I think once you get them in an ballast around them they are not so noticeable. Much easier than trying to align a point under the layout. Good to see this area getting ballast and scenics. I have a complex run of point and double slips waiting for ballasting at the front of the layout. My worst nightmare is to glue solid a double slip. I can't put it off much longer so good to see how you do it. Stephen
Hi Stephen, yes we can’t always avoid using the surface mounted point motors. I just didn’t get on with the PL 10s they just didn’t switch properly, but these PL11 are very easy to switch. I know what you mean about the double slip, but you could give the mechanisms a squirt with WD40 first that would protect the point, keep checking it I sure it’ll be fine. I’ve only ever had one point gum up completely and had to replace it, but that was in my early days and I used go very gun ho then. I certainly don’t now
@@piccadillymodelrailways I found the gaugemaster surface mount point motors brilliant as they have a manual switch so you can test and they not bad in price too. Since watching your video I am thinking of using them more thank you for the advice.
Thanks so much for your help 👍
Hi John, great scene you have going there. with N gauge the sand is ideal i can see that the finish you get is very realistic. trunking idea may come in handy....take care Tony
Thanks Tony, Ive used sand for years on N gauge, its pretty to scale and stupid cheap. Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Really looks good John. At first I thought that you weren't going to insert sleepers in the gaps, but you have done in almost all of the places that you have ballasted, just a couple of gaps seems to have been missed. I am not critising as I am sure that as I progress with my 00 layout I will miss some as well.
Hi thank you. I filled as many as I spotted, the camera had a different view to what I saw. I will fill future ones as required but really not that worried about it. Thank you for taking the time to comment
ENJOYED THE CLIP AND IMPROVEMENTS THAT YOU HAVE ADDED.THIS AREA IS REALLY COMING ON AND LOOKING GREAT ...CATCH UP ON NEXT CLIP CHEERS JOHN
Nice one John, you've done that area really well, as you said, learning from previous techniques, you can see the difference and covering those points looks great. Enjoying following your progress.
Thanks Brian very kind of you to say
Coming on good...regards the point motors, I had the same problem but got around it by building a small staff halt similar to the one that used to be at Mottram Yard, works well and perhaps an idea for the future? Look forward to the next installment.
Hi Steve, thank you for taking the time to comment. I’ve used a variety of methods, relay box staging, burying them in platforms, retaining walls, as you said. Lots of things. On this occasion with the two points opposite each other I was reluctant to build them up as the could of looked like columns of foliage rising out of the earth lol
Well that looks good John. I didn't realise you used sand but if it works and your happy with it then that's fine. Cheers Euan
Absolutely Euan I think sand looks great, cheaper than chips, and easy to lay. Colours beautifully. I used woodland scenic ballast on my OO, awful stuff, it’s coconut shell and resistant to staining, had to spray. The Javis ballast was amazing because it was ground stone. Strange isn’t it?
I always dread ballasting around points!
I know what you mean, but with some care should be ok. Of all the many many points I’ve ballasted only one broke after being laid, but gratefully it was a quick simple swap out as the ballast had not dried out.
Even if a point does stick just soak the mechanism with water and spray with WD40 once the glue has softened. That with lubricate the mechanism, casting any water. Just clean rail heads throughly after with IPA.
the one thing that scares me, the patience for balasting and glueing it all down, it is alot of work and effort for me haha, that is really neat i like how you have covered them really well i thought the clip moved onto them being removed at first haha,
Lol, noooo not removing anything else if I can help it ha ha. Glad you liked it and thank you for taking the time to comment.
Excellent update John. I like the idea of using sand . I assume it was sharp sand ? . As always looking forward to the next video.
Hi Geoff thank you I appreciate your support. The sand was actually play sand as it’s been cleaned and quite fine for N gauge. Sharp sand has lots of bits grit and alsorts in it. It works well.
Hi John great job do you want to be RUclips friends 😂 lol I got the same message. Anyway fancy forgetting to put the sleepers in 😂 easily done as you try to get on, done the same and had to quickly put them in. It looks fantastic John. The colours really work. I thought you'd left the black drops on the top line to represent where a diesel had been sitting during some kind of track maintenance. Great job John and again great tips especially as I've all this to do on my main lines and yard. Cheers Andy
Thanks Andy, as always. I just delete those bot messages no, usually have silly name and a cartoon.
The black spots were from unmixed paint. 9/10 the paint glue method works beautifully, but occasionally needs touching, airbrushing, spotting, up or modifying in some way.
Good video John, sadly Im too heavy handed for N I have enough issues with oo. cheers Paul at Sandling Junction
Thanks Paul. I do understand, so we each choose the best for our situation and circumstances.
Good video, The sand works really well for N gauge ballast it seems, Also much cheaper with a visit to the beach ;)
Thank you Michael yes I agree, although I got my sand from B & Q lol
Using sand for N scale ballast is an interesting idea; I like the "N scale person, holding it in their hand" thought - maybe a good way to judge scale accurately. I'm not *entirely* convinced about the final appearance but I guess we all do things differently.😁 I'll certainly consider using sand though, if I ever get my layout started. I suppose there are as many varieties of sand as there are brands of ballast and, by adding paint at an early stage, there are endless colour possibilities too - even *before* weathering etc.
I've only recently subscribed and I'm still getting to know Piccadilly; it's a fair old size.😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Thanks Dougie, I do think ballasting is a personal thing and we do indeed do things differently, so we do have to choose the direction to follow on that one. I’ve used paint in the ballast mix for years now and occasionally does come out nicely, other times some extra work is required. It’s a kind of random approach within each micro area, as you don’t always know how it will dry. Yet at the same time control over the general look.
On my OO gauge layout I did use a ballast mix from Javis and added sand to make the mix go further, the sand falls to the bottom in the main, leaving stones on top.
The whole idea of the layout is to give the impression of a vast area, with the viewer viewing each zone as miles apart from the zone next to it. Surprisingly the bulk of the layout is only 6’x6’ with an extra 4’x 2’, in preparation for the extension in the future.
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@piccadillymodelrailways It looks *way* bigger than that. 😁 I suippose, with all the scenic breaks, it's hard to get a true idea of the layout's size, especially on camera. So many layouts, of all scales, have a *narrow* dimension(8 x 4, even 10 x 4) that making it square(ish) gives you a lot of extra space, not often seen. Even huge exhibition layouts tend to be long and narrow; you're lucky having that extra space. Apart from anything else, it means you can get away from the standard oval shape. The more I watch your layout, the more I like it. It's very *different* in so many ways.👍
Thank you.
What wire did you use for the network rail UTX cables?
Hello - no idea the finest orange wire I could get, guessing around 0.2mm overall diam
As usual you did a great job, I always say put color in your plaster but I like the idea of adding some to the ballast too....thanks for sharing....Jack
The motors are not that injectable once camouflaged...👍👍👍
Thanks Jack I’ve used coloured the ballast for years now love the variety of results. Sorry not sure what you mean by ‘injectable’ in this context. Thanks
@@piccadillymodelrailways oops meant objextable....
i just want to point something out isn't fine ballast good for n gauge track considering it is made for n gauge track and smaller.
Hi, thank you for taking the time to comment, sorry N gauge ballast (or fine) is good for OO gauge, IMO. A single piece of ballast should fit comfortably in the hand and an N gauge person is only 12mm from head to foot, so their hands are around 1mm so ballast is much smaller again.
At the end of the day we each do what we prefer, that is good as then no two modellers nor layouts are the same.
Sorry to bother you. But how do I ballast people do it different way some say paint ballast then weather need advice please?
Hi, how you colour / weather the ballast is your choice. There is no right nor wrong.
I think it is quite important to choose the right size of ballast. I use kiln dried sand for N gauge, and a very fine one for OO. Remember one piece of ballast can be held in a persons hand.
Personally I apply the ballast with a spoon and smooth with a 1/2” paint brush or slightly bigger. The idea is to clear the rails off the sleepers, no higher as it can stick to the rails and cause derailments. I tap the rails periodically with the spoon as this helps settle the ballast into the rails. Charlie from Chadwick did an excellent video which I’ll link below.
Spray track with Isopropyl alcohol then apply glue with a dropper.
For the glue mix 50:50 PVA and water then ( you can add a drop of washing up liquid instead of Isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have any).
I then add brown / grey paint to the mix so track is partially weathered with the glue mix. You don’t have to. Pure PVA is fine. You can weather the track after/ paint rails IF YOU WANT TO. Your choice.
When glue is dry check points move ok, and trains run smoothly over track. If not use a small screwdriver to remove ballast partials. Repeat as necessary until trains run smoothly. Finally use a track rubber to clean track as there will undoubtedly be dried PVA on surface with could interfere with electrical contact. Track rubbers work so well.
Charlie’s video:
ruclips.net/video/NmTRff-SOXg/видео.htmlsi=SaUwTFe4-U48teOq