Mora's are unbeaten, however I stand by my cold steel pocket bushman. It's in my pocket now. It's the most overbuilt folder available. I've carried for 2 years and have trusted that thing with torque I'd never apply to any other folder I've held before. Ive ground a second choil and some jimping. I've tied a monkey fist into the locking mechanism. This allows me three positions to hold the knife in, for fine carving hard use and light chopping. I carry a bandana with me everywhere and that has proved useful to wrap around the handle to prevent hotspots. Love this thing and recommend to any working man
I’ve been thinking about getting one as a back up knife to my fixed blade. How does the edge hold up and is the lock as hard to pull as they say. I only ask because I want my kids to be able to use it.
@@chrisjosekuehl it takes two hands to operate, no way around it. The spring that operated the lock is stiff at first, but it will loosen up, my 8 yo can do it sometimes. It is big in the hands and needs some modding to be comfortable. The blade steel is good. Not great, not bad. Im hard on mine, and it holds an edge through some abuse, relatively easy to sharpen.
For the stash everywhere knife i went with the crkt minimalist... they are small enough to fit any kit anywhere but still durable enough to be useful... and the handle comfort is surprisingly good for the size
I have one in the warncliff style and I love it. The design is super handy. To bad the steel is shit. Not a huge deal just I need to run it on a ceramic rod before ever use. For the price I highly recommend
@@kakashi1234777nah man i can’t justify 5cr anything, if you want a minimalist style knife get the SPEC or SPIT, they come in 8cr13mov or SMKW has the SPEW in d2. there’s also the katana blade shape and the green/blue blade printing/scale models have 8cr13mov instead of that garbage ass 5cr
I just realized I've been watching this channel for the better part of 2 years now without being subscribed. My bad. Love this channel, as a veteran cook/lifetime knife nerd I always appreciate the fun/new info y'all present. I love the minimizing of production: white room and a laptop with a row of knives. It really helps keep the message about the knives, no bells and whistles, just cool new and old knives.
DCA , if you crashed onto an island solely inhabited by beautiful insatiable women that distilled tequila from agave and forested with thousands of lime trees , what knife would knife would you wish you had , to slice the limes ?
DCA, I've been watching KC videos for a long time now and must disagree with, or at least contest several points you make quite often. I do a lot of landscaping and outdoor work, usually involving dirt, and while I love fixed blades, they just don't fit well in a pocket. #1. Washers can get just as much dirt in them as bearings can, and it tends to do more damage to washers than to bearings. I have unfortunately tested this in the field and found out the expensive way. And I would say tolerances and design play a bigger part in this than the actual mechanism does. #2. Axis/ cross-bar locks, seem to be a magnet for "stuff" getting wedged behind them. Making them either a fixed blade or a chunk of something that isn't a knife. This to me is a design flaw, if a small rock can completely stop operation and another knife is needed to fix it. Liner locks can suffer from debris as well, but Frame locks on the other hand, seem to be impervious to these things. Basically what I'm trying to say is that a Frame lock flipper on bearings has been almost impossible for me to defeat while an axis-lock on washers only takes me minutes. No, not everyone is a landscaper but to say that washers are tougher than bearings is simply not true, and a cross-bar lock Might be suited better to those with adversaries in the cardboard form. Thank you, aaaand Thomas for the great content.
I'm a fellow landscaper. I will say that in my experience washers are less likely to get gritty from dust/dirt/sand/dried mortar mix etc. They are also inherently stronger when it comes to lateral force being applied. I agree that axis locks can get gritty from dust/dirt/mortar but I've never had one fail to function. For fixed blades, I had been trying to find one that worked for me for a while, and ended up adding quite a few nice fixed blades to the collection that had sheaths that just didn't work for me. I got the KC exclusive Creely Mako in Cruwear this week and have been carrying it in pocket since Tuesday. It works GREAT! If you've been wanting to try a fixed blade that carries in pocket comfortably I would try that one out, I can't recommend it enough.
The D2 for a knife stashed in a survival kit isn't much of a problem for me. My solution for D2's less than optimal corrosion resistance is paste wax. It doesn't need much. A wipe from a waxy rag goes a long way. Learned that trick from a wood worker who told me how he protects his tools. Works pretty well for pocket knives.
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. I didn't think it would actually get picked, and I have been swamped at work the past few days, so imagine my surprise when I came to check out the new videos I hadn't yet watched. You provided a great list with a lot of things for me to think about, and this comments section is not disappointing, either! That's why you gotta love the knife community! I definitely consider myself a knife guy, but I know the limits of my knowledge, which is why I love KnifeCenter videos. I learn something new in pretty much every video. And in case anybody is wondering, the front runners from the suggestions in this video are the Rat Model 1, Crawford 1 and Mora Companion Spark.
I'm trying to turn the blade from my svord peasant into a small fixed blade I'm using the handle of a hammer from my grandfather for the handle I just don't know really where to start with it all.
Man this sounds like a fun project. So hard to try and type it all out, but you either want to saw a slot in the back of the handle for the tang of the knife to go, or drill a hole from the bolster end of the handle down into it (for a hidden tang). Then cross drill the handle for pins or fasteners to go through the holes on the tang. If using pins get it all fitted up to make sure the holes are aligned, then pour epoxy down the handle and insert the blade, put some epoxy in the pin holes and insert the pins (they should be a little longer than needed). You have to do this all fast btw. Then peen the pins with a hammer. Let the epoxy cure as described on the packaging, then use a belt grinder to sand down the excess pins and epoxy. and shape the handle
@@arrowheadguys7637 wow that was incredibly informative and concise thank you. The peasants blade seemed perfect for a little fixed blade and I had the old hammer handle it seemed perfect.
@@Cadwallader38 No problem. Obviously if you want the tang exposed on the back side of the handle its kind of the same procedure with epoxy and pins. Good luck, let me know how it comes along!
I would suggest the stainless Mora with the orange accents on the handle, so it's easy to find if you drop it. If it's for a survival kit, then the conditions are likely going to be far from ideal if you end up having to use it. Get something you can use in the woods in the dark during a rain storm, while you're tired and hungry.
Really enjoy the channel. I too would recommend a Mora as a stashed kit knife all day every day. 👍 I recently stapped my favourite neck knife (an ESEE Xancudo) to my ESEE Junglas 2 to store them and realized that it made a really cool pair - a large blade and a neck knife from the same brand. Kinda fun! I then took my Ol' Faithful Becker BK 9 and strapped my little Becker BK11 to it, and I thought, "Hey, that's pretty cool too." And they're something one could grab and head to the woods with just as is. Any interest in showing us some other fun same-branded necker-chopper/large blade combos? Maybe a Scandinavian themed combo? Tactical combo? Could really have some fun with it...
The Buck 100 Slim Select is a great choice. It's what I got multiple of and is also my work knife. It holds up to garden hose, small branches, cardboard and the occasional side of a couch or recliner very well. For a fixed blade Cold Steel Canadian Belt Knife. $16 and absolutely amazing.
Best bang for you buck. At what point ($$$) do you get diminishing returns on performance. Yes, you get what you pay for, but why a $60 knife over a $30, why $120 vs an $80. Call it a "Hi/Low" challenge.
Advice for the ferro-rod question... A knife is backup for a striker, not a primary method. The reason for this is simple. I have excellent first aid skills, because I got to learn them as I was getting treated as a child/teen. I have learned that any time a sharp, pointy, serrated, or similar surface is exposed it is much more likely to cause an "accident " than when in a sheath/folded. Had a person I went to SERE training do that, and I learn from the mistakes of others... My favorite striker is from a local welding shop. Walked in and asked if they could help me. Ended up with a scrap piece of 5mm plate about 1.5x4" with one end rounded and 90°edge all around. Can (and is) used for so many things, but you don't cut yourself with it accidentally trying to throw sparks. And if you are going the old "flint & steel" route, you can find sets online.
Didn't go with the ESEE Zancudo (aka mosquito) for the most serious question? Maybe it was too on the nose (proboscis?), but that's what would have been buzzing around my head.
I need a favor. I have two (Side Kick) brand knives. American tanto and a caraded combat knife. (Here's where you come in) I can't find anything on this brand and since the two that I have are amazing quality, I want more of that brand. Hope you can help me out #1
For the survival knife under $50 I would hav to go with the Cold Steel Finn Wolf love the scandi grind and the triad lock I pocket carried one for years and love it
Djfugi I’d get ‘em all a civivi praxis for 42.50 a piece or the buck 110 isn’t a bad choice . Actually there are no bad choices here , lol. We all tend to think the knives we have are the best but most knives ar e usually well thought out imo . Every knife is like a song
DCA, I have a Kershaw Scallion with the stainless steel blade and I am trying to give it a black finish. I have been trying the Birchwood Casey blackening for stainless steel (Presto Black SSB) and it turns the blade black but the oxide will rub off with medium pressure. Are there ways to seal the knife so that the black oxide layer will stay on during normal use? I tried soaking the blackened parts in boiled linseed oil but that also did not hold the oxide to the surface. I am now trying the process again but using a penetrating concrete sealer. Are there better ways to turn stainless steel blades/liners black that won't just flake off like paint? I am wary of using heat on blade steel.
DCA, I'm about to set off on a long journey to have an audience with the King of a far away land. I need a gift! What knife would be a suitable gift for royalty? 👑⚔🏰
Hi DCA, I get told by people I talk to about folding knives that Slipjoints are more dangerous than locking knives, for you and knife centre staff who have cut themselves with Slipjoints or locking knives? Are Slipjoints cutting more people than locking knives?
Are there any limited edition Halloween models coming out? I saw one guy's collection. He had a Doug Ritter Hugue knife with orange handle scales and decorated bead.
Hey DCA! My fiancee and I are looking for a knife we can use at our wedding to cut the cake (in our case we're having wedding pies). We want something beautiful but not just for show, because we would like to use it regularly in the kitchen. We're both knife nerds and are used to exorbitant price, but sub $400 would be best. Additionally, can you give some pointers on what to look for when choosing kitchen knives. Any recommendations on steel selection, handle material, and blade geometry would be appreciated.
I have developed some patina on my Cruwear blade, and I am wanting to put a acid etch and a stonewash on it. Would these small rust/patina spots cause any problems while acid etching and stonewashing my blade? Can they turn into rust underneath a stonewashed finish?
I had a new embarrassing knife story happen since last week. I got the Creely Cruwear Mako from you guys last week. Sat down on the couch to open it. Opened the box and the knife is not shipped inside the sheath, its in what looks like an anti-static bag with a rubber tip protector on the blade. I grabbed the bag to lift it out of the box and the knife shot straight thru the bottom of the bag and landed tip down in the top of my bare footed big toe. I was bleeding pretty bad so I left the knife and went and got bandaged up. Went back to investigate and discovered the knife had cut through the rubber tip protector which allowed it to cut right through the bag as I picked it up.
@@yankee23a Instead I sent the maker a friendly email about what happened. Really not sure why the knife isn't shipped in the sheath, it would save cost on packaging and be safer. Can't think of any fixed blades I've bought that weren't packaged within their sheath.
QUESTION: What knife represents your personality the best, are you a Ladybug or a CS Espada, a CR Sebenza or a Buck 110 (or any other knife out there. this is for all 3 of you guys. Hope it gets in this time :)
DCA, you often talk about holding a knife in a gorilla grip. I was wondering what knife a gorilla would use. Also, could a gorilla hold a knife in a human grip.
Hey DCA! My question for next week is, I’m looking at investing into a more premium Bushcraft/survival knife (like 80/20 split) I’m considering: Bark River in 3v/Cruwear, White River Ursus 45, Tops BOB 154cm, Benchmade 202 or Anonimus, Survive Knives 4.1 magnacut, Lionsteel, Fallkniven maybe an Esee is s35vn. Is there something I’m missing that is amazing and do you recommend any of the ones I listed over the others and why? I’m looking for 4”-5”ish, full tang of course, contoured micarta scales and preferably a convex grind or bevel with at semi or full stainless steel. I know I’ll have to convex some of the knives I listed myself but that’s no problem. I have purchased the Bushcraft III convex and Esee 3 micarta from knife center based on your videos. Huge thanks to you, Thomas and Seth for all you guys do. As an educator myself I appreciate the quality of your presentations. Have a great week! FYI I hav tried to find one your knives for sale but it’s like finding unicorn blood. I
@@Multi-Skill-Bill I have one but I’m wanting to go with a higher quality than the bow River, it’s on ok knife, steel is kinda weak compared to 3v, Cruwear, magnacut, s35, or 154. Thanks though that is a good selection. I guess I should have stated my budget is up or down a little of $300, of course something less expensive would be great if it was good stuff.
@@Multi-Skill-Bill yeah it might be the one, but Lionsteel has the b41’s and m5’s in that same price range with better ergo’s, the bob in 154cm is a bigger blade, I’m really leaning towards something with a thicker stock, the survive knives 4.1 comes in magnacut and has almost a 5” blade for like $250 for preorder, that’s a tough package to beat and their handles are very very nice. I’ve put in an order for a bravo1 in Cruwear but if I don’t like it I don’t have to buy it when it gets done, I really like the fallkniven F1x in cos and I wish I wouldn’t have given it away and it comes in elmax now, so many choices, I just don’t want to buy half a dozen $200-$300 knives to find the best one. But that might have to be what I do. I will say the Bushcraft III convex has done pretty good, it’s a true convex grind to a zero bevel edge, I haven’t buttoned with it yet but it feathersticks very well, the esee 3 is ok, it dulls pretty quickly and the handles are terrible. I’ll probably get some 3d micarta scales from someone aftermarket.
I would steer clear of Bark River, they are not a reputable company, which is why most the reputable dealers won't carry their products. They have a history of bad (or rather NO) customer service and have been caught numerous times using cheap steel instead of what it was labeled as. Google their owners history if you haven't and you will likely not want anything to do with his products, he is a con man and has ripped off some of the kindest people in the business. For recommendations I would go with the Benchmade 202 or ESEE in S35VN. I'd stay away from the Lionsteel until I heard some positive feedback on their heat treat. The 202 sounds more like what you're after IMO. I have the Puukko (shorter version) and the handle is about as comfortable as they come. I also have the S35VN ESEE 4 with 3d scales and absolutely love it, but I think the 5" 3V blade on the Leuku is a little will serve you better for all around tasks than the shorter ESEE.
I love my Badlands Vagabond for its looks and action, but yeah, camping and survival isn't quite the job for it, I think it's best for lighter duty things. I love my CJRB Taiga when I need something beefier but it has bearings too. : ( Still, plenty of good options.
Another great saw knife is the victorionox equinox. My spelling is ish, but I’ve had it for quite a few years and they’re really nice to hold and fairly compact. Definitely recommend
I’m more of a fixed blade guy when it comes to survival or outdoor purposes. For me, folders are only convenient for edc, even though there are some great bushcraft folders out there.
I purchased a Milwaukee Fast-Back Drop Point recently. I thought it was going to just be a button lock like their utility knives but it also has a liner lock. Every once in a while when I flick it open the liner lock goes past the back of blade and jams up. Can this happen on regular knives over time? Is it the lock that wore out or was the geometry of the blade not proper to stop it? Also are there other knives out there that use both a button lock and liner lock?
An easy way to test how crisp a spine is to scrape it down your finger nail and see if it removes scrapings, that pocket bushman is great but that lock can be dangerous for the inexperienced or not as strong lol but im not a doctor 🤣 your miles may vary.
I bought the Steel Will Modus a year and a half ago and couldn't open it. The detent was insane. I ended up returning it. I own 185 fixed and folding knives.
Pocket bushman is my toolbox knife. I used it to cut out over 600 square yards of glued carpet last. Lockup is awesome. Steel is soft and doesn’t last super long, but super easy to touch up on a pocket stone I keep next to it. Also if you are thinking about it to carry, a deep carry Shaman clip fits perfectly on it!
I loved this knife and wanted to make it work but I had 2 of them lock up permanently on me. CS knows about the issue and they had allegedly fixed it before I bought a second knife. But the second locked up same as the first.
@@southernsteel4476 that’s crazy and unfortunate. I must have got one that was produced after they fixed it. I definitely used it in a way that would have locked it up if it had the issue. With the spine on the ground, edge side up pushing on the lock through the glued carpet on the ground still. Luckily I haven’t had that issue.
For cheap camp/survival knives, the Ontario Camp Plus folders are probably worth putting in the mix almost as a companion knife because they're so stoopid cheap. Could then focus less on a single all-rounder, use the Camp Plus for light food prep stuff and have something more dedicated for the survival use. That'd be my angle on that question.
Hi DCA. My mother (aged 82) recently complained that her thumb is too weak to close her liner lock flippers. She currently uses a Kizer Lieb and an Artisan Cutlery Shark 3”. She loves the excellent flipping action of both knives but needs to close them two-handed. I suggested buying her a button lock flipper which I think is easier for her. Can you recommend one which fits her smaller than average hands? Budget around 100$ but I am willing to pay more for a perfect fit. Thanks
Do you have a knife shop anywhere nearby where she could try one out first? My grandma lost a lot of the "meat" in her fingers when she got up over 80 - it wasn't just the strength but her fingertips were like soft grapes. I have a Kizer Swayback that works fine in my little hands (I'm not 80+). That might be a good candidate for her - the button sticks out far enough when it's open that she could press on it with the side of her thumb knuckle if her fingertip won't do it. But if you could take her shopping that might be best.
Check out the Civivi Altus! If she wants a flipper instead of thumbstuds then the Civivi Cogent. The WE Culex has both and is that 3" size thats probably what she is after, but its about double your budget.
You advocated for people to build their own knives. I assume most of us are not going to have the capability of making a truly "raw parts" to "finished product". Is there a kit that you recommend as a toe-in-the water?
Search "knife blank" on their site. They have a hand full of full tang options that just require you making some scales and attaching them, which can be done with common hand tools.
Hi David, I like to do my feather sticks with the quarter round of a tracker knife. Is it possible to have the same king of feeling with a recurve blade? If so, how aggressive has to be the recurve? Thanks.
Hi DCA & Thomas. Another great bunch of cutting tools on the table. Great knife story & mishaps. Perhaps that has open a new catagory in "What you shoudn't do with a Knife".Prevention is better than a cure.! We have always carry a Buck 110, use & abuse it but never cut or stab ourselves. Lesson lived & learn perhaps. Great vid matey. Welcome back Thomas. Warm greetings from Australia.
Good timing on the first question. I just ordered the "Ganzo G7452P Tactical Folding Knife 440C Blade G10 Handle Axis Lock". It has three things I want to try; it's a Ganzo, thumb studs and axis lock. I realize it's not the best example of any of those, but I couldn't resist at $12!
I’m a big fan of the Crawford 1. Some folks are hung up on the steel, but it has served me very well, tends to occupy my pocket a lot more than some more expensive knives I have. My Crawford is broken in as well and it flips open very easily and smoothly. I Like it
DCA said it was 4116 steel but I believe it’s 4034, a budget Japanese product that should be just fine at this price point. I just grabbed one at $29 bucks off an Amazon special and I can’t wait!
I stash Moraknivs EVERYWHERE. They are so inexpensive, and even with the carbon steel, a simple lard treatment will help them resist rust for a while even in storage. They are nearly indestructible, and the bright colored handles have been described as "friendly and non-aggressive" and are easy to find in camping settings.
Their sandvik stainless is amazing and very stainless. Can't go wrong with a Morakniv. Wax coating a carbon blade protects it's amazingly and lasts a long time, you don't need much, heated wax melted on an old rag and wipe the blade. Comes off easy, and better than oil for long term storage.
DCA, for the second queastion about the saw, you mentioned lockbacks with a blade and saw combo, Mikov from the Czech Republic still make a few in that style. They also make some hunting fixed blades with a folding saw in the handle, but that looks way less practical. (Edit: they even sell their Predator switchblade with a saw on!)
I did this several years ago. I got Buck Large Bantams. The handle feels pretty good, it has the same 420HC. It's not really fidgety, but it doesn't need that.
To answer your question at 15:16 Folding knife and saw combos that I have include: Puma SGB Warden (a very nice knife), Schrade 97OT, 69OT, and the 2144OT Copperhead Double Rattler
I like the idea of multiple stashes, don't think I really need to buy more knives for this. I could make at least 10 stashes and still have plenty of knives left. All good knives, but a surprise by the time you need the stash!
Yeah, I could leave a Benchmade, Spyderco or Demko in every room of my house, in all my vehicles, and in a bugout bag for the wife and I and all 4 kids and still have a few left over to leave in the collection.
Mora's are unbeaten, however I stand by my cold steel pocket bushman. It's in my pocket now. It's the most overbuilt folder available. I've carried for 2 years and have trusted that thing with torque I'd never apply to any other folder I've held before. Ive ground a second choil and some jimping. I've tied a monkey fist into the locking mechanism. This allows me three positions to hold the knife in, for fine carving hard use and light chopping. I carry a bandana with me everywhere and that has proved useful to wrap around the handle to prevent hotspots. Love this thing and recommend to any working man
I’ve been thinking about getting one as a back up knife to my fixed blade. How does the edge hold up and is the lock as hard to pull as they say. I only ask because I want my kids to be able to use it.
@@chrisjosekuehl it takes two hands to operate, no way around it. The spring that operated the lock is stiff at first, but it will loosen up, my 8 yo can do it sometimes. It is big in the hands and needs some modding to be comfortable. The blade steel is good. Not great, not bad. Im hard on mine, and it holds an edge through some abuse, relatively easy to sharpen.
@@jimjimson6518 thanks for the info, I’ll be getting on for sure. What mods have you done to yours?
Most overbuilt folder available?
Get out a bit more, mate.
@@CadillacDriver what do you think is the toughest or strongest folder?
There is a version of the Mikov Praktik with a locking blade and a locking saw.
The Fly-A-Way will help with the winged insect population for sure, but you could take care of all your insecty pests with a Bug-out.
Winner
Knice one Jen! -DCA
What's the best blade steel for someone named Austin?
cheap knife for a kit? The Mora is the choice. If you need it smaller you can get an Eldris.
For the stash everywhere knife i went with the crkt minimalist... they are small enough to fit any kit anywhere but still durable enough to be useful... and the handle comfort is surprisingly good for the size
They sharpen up well too
CRKT 😂😂
I have one in the warncliff style and I love it. The design is super handy. To bad the steel is shit. Not a huge deal just I need to run it on a ceramic rod before ever use. For the price I highly recommend
@@kakashi1234777nah man i can’t justify 5cr anything, if you want a minimalist style knife get the SPEC or SPIT, they come in 8cr13mov or SMKW has the SPEW in d2. there’s also the katana blade shape and the green/blue blade printing/scale models have 8cr13mov instead of that garbage ass 5cr
I just realized I've been watching this channel for the better part of 2 years now without being subscribed. My bad. Love this channel, as a veteran cook/lifetime knife nerd I always appreciate the fun/new info y'all present. I love the minimizing of production: white room and a laptop with a row of knives. It really helps keep the message about the knives, no bells and whistles, just cool new and old knives.
Don't forget to click on the bell to get notifications!
DCA , if you crashed onto an island solely inhabited by beautiful insatiable women that distilled tequila from agave and forested with thousands of lime trees , what knife would knife would you wish you had , to slice the limes ?
Cheap knife to fill out multiple kits? I'd have to go with an Opinel
DCA, I've been watching KC videos for a long time now and must disagree with, or at least contest several points you make quite often.
I do a lot of landscaping and outdoor work, usually involving dirt, and while I love fixed blades, they just don't fit well in a pocket.
#1. Washers can get just as much dirt in them as bearings can, and it tends to do more damage to washers than to bearings.
I have unfortunately tested this in the field and found out the expensive way. And I would say tolerances and design play a bigger part in this than the actual mechanism does.
#2. Axis/ cross-bar locks, seem to be a magnet for "stuff" getting wedged behind them. Making them either a fixed blade or a chunk of something that isn't a knife.
This to me is a design flaw, if a small rock can completely stop operation and another knife is needed to fix it.
Liner locks can suffer from debris as well, but Frame locks on the other hand, seem to be impervious to these things.
Basically what I'm trying to say is that a Frame lock flipper on bearings has been almost impossible for me to defeat while an axis-lock on washers only takes me minutes.
No, not everyone is a landscaper but to say that washers are tougher than bearings is simply not true, and a cross-bar lock Might be suited better to those with adversaries in the cardboard form.
Thank you, aaaand Thomas for the great content.
I'm a fellow landscaper. I will say that in my experience washers are less likely to get gritty from dust/dirt/sand/dried mortar mix etc. They are also inherently stronger when it comes to lateral force being applied. I agree that axis locks can get gritty from dust/dirt/mortar but I've never had one fail to function.
For fixed blades, I had been trying to find one that worked for me for a while, and ended up adding quite a few nice fixed blades to the collection that had sheaths that just didn't work for me. I got the KC exclusive Creely Mako in Cruwear this week and have been carrying it in pocket since Tuesday. It works GREAT! If you've been wanting to try a fixed blade that carries in pocket comfortably I would try that one out, I can't recommend it enough.
DCA, you've found yourself lost in the desert with a kit packed by Thomas. Which reverse tanto knife would he have packed for you?
The D2 for a knife stashed in a survival kit isn't much of a problem for me. My solution for D2's less than optimal corrosion resistance is paste wax. It doesn't need much. A wipe from a waxy rag goes a long way. Learned that trick from a wood worker who told me how he protects his tools. Works pretty well for pocket knives.
Chapstick is another really cheap option.
Alternatively you could even use nose-grease. 😅
I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. I didn't think it would actually get picked, and I have been swamped at work the past few days, so imagine my surprise when I came to check out the new videos I hadn't yet watched. You provided a great list with a lot of things for me to think about, and this comments section is not disappointing, either! That's why you gotta love the knife community! I definitely consider myself a knife guy, but I know the limits of my knowledge, which is why I love KnifeCenter videos. I learn something new in pretty much every video.
And in case anybody is wondering, the front runners from the suggestions in this video are the Rat Model 1, Crawford 1 and Mora Companion Spark.
Happy to help, it was a fun one! -DCA
Survival? Hiking? Bug out bag? If we talk knives... All you need is quality small fixed blade, sharpener, and victorinox... 👍
Building a Go-Bag, or stocking a glove box/car boot? Ontario Rat 1 or 2, or the Honey Badgers. You won't regret it.
I'm surprised that the KABAR Dozier folder wasn't mentioned for a kit knife. Great knife for the price point.
Right? The D2 version is right in the middle of their price range.
No David, not kinigit, think more of 'The Knights who say, "NI"' ! 🤣😂☺️🤗❤️✌️🖖👋🇬🇧
Was glad to see the Coldsteel pocket Bushman. Great knife. Lot of fun. Most sturdy folder ever.
I can’t think of any other folder under $50 that I would trust to baton with in a survival situation. That thing is a little tank.
I'm trying to turn the blade from my svord peasant into a small fixed blade I'm using the handle of a hammer from my grandfather for the handle I just don't know really where to start with it all.
Man this sounds like a fun project. So hard to try and type it all out, but you either want to saw a slot in the back of the handle for the tang of the knife to go, or drill a hole from the bolster end of the handle down into it (for a hidden tang). Then cross drill the handle for pins or fasteners to go through the holes on the tang. If using pins get it all fitted up to make sure the holes are aligned, then pour epoxy down the handle and insert the blade, put some epoxy in the pin holes and insert the pins (they should be a little longer than needed). You have to do this all fast btw. Then peen the pins with a hammer. Let the epoxy cure as described on the packaging, then use a belt grinder to sand down the excess pins and epoxy. and shape the handle
@@arrowheadguys7637 wow that was incredibly informative and concise thank you. The peasants blade seemed perfect for a little fixed blade and I had the old hammer handle it seemed perfect.
@@Cadwallader38 No problem. Obviously if you want the tang exposed on the back side of the handle its kind of the same procedure with epoxy and pins. Good luck, let me know how it comes along!
I would suggest the stainless Mora with the orange accents on the handle, so it's easy to find if you drop it. If it's for a survival kit, then the conditions are likely going to be far from ideal if you end up having to use it.
Get something you can use in the woods in the dark during a rain storm, while you're tired and hungry.
Concur.
We used to play catch with a knife at school. You’ll be surprised to hear how that ended…. 😊
The neat thing about playing catch with knives is that you don't even need to use your hands to catch it!
I would recommend the Cold Steel SR1 Lite. heavy duty 4"
8Cr13MoV for $39 on Amazon.
Really enjoy the channel. I too would recommend a Mora as a stashed kit knife all day every day. 👍
I recently stapped my favourite neck knife (an ESEE Xancudo) to my ESEE Junglas 2 to store them and realized that it made a really cool pair - a large blade and a neck knife from the same brand. Kinda fun! I then took my Ol' Faithful Becker BK 9 and strapped my little Becker BK11 to it, and I thought, "Hey, that's pretty cool too." And they're something one could grab and head to the woods with just as is. Any interest in showing us some other fun same-branded necker-chopper/large blade combos? Maybe a Scandinavian themed combo? Tactical combo? Could really have some fun with it...
Reallybigmonkey has been doing videos on this for a while. Great concept.
I keep Mora Companions in all my outdoor stuff and cars
Folding outdoor knife. Great idea.
The Buck 100 Slim Select is a great choice. It's what I got multiple of and is also my work knife. It holds up to garden hose, small branches, cardboard and the occasional side of a couch or recliner very well. For a fixed blade Cold Steel Canadian Belt Knife. $16 and absolutely amazing.
Best bang for you buck. At what point ($$$) do you get diminishing returns on performance. Yes, you get what you pay for, but why a $60 knife over a $30, why $120 vs an $80. Call it a "Hi/Low" challenge.
I guess a Ka-bar Dozier and a Mora Basic would have been too much empty countertop for an entire video.
Advice for the ferro-rod question...
A knife is backup for a striker, not a primary method. The reason for this is simple.
I have excellent first aid skills, because I got to learn them as I was getting treated as a child/teen. I have learned that any time a sharp, pointy, serrated, or similar surface is exposed it is much more likely to cause an "accident " than when in a sheath/folded. Had a person I went to SERE training do that, and I learn from the mistakes of others...
My favorite striker is from a local welding shop. Walked in and asked if they could help me. Ended up with a scrap piece of 5mm plate about 1.5x4" with one end rounded and 90°edge all around. Can (and is) used for so many things, but you don't cut yourself with it accidentally trying to throw sparks.
And if you are going the old "flint & steel" route, you can find sets online.
Didn't go with the ESEE Zancudo (aka mosquito) for the most serious question? Maybe it was too on the nose (proboscis?), but that's what would have been buzzing around my head.
Totally with you on the Rat 1. Pure function.
Yep. RAT-1 and Mora Companion. Two knives you can never have too many of. Buy them in quantity and stash them everywhere.
I need a favor. I have two (Side Kick) brand knives. American tanto and a caraded combat knife. (Here's where you come in) I can't find anything on this brand and since the two that I have are amazing quality, I want more of that brand.
Hope you can help me out
#1
For the survival knife under $50 I would hav to go with the Cold Steel Finn Wolf love the scandi grind and the triad lock I pocket carried one for years and love it
Djfugi I’d get ‘em all a civivi praxis for 42.50 a piece or the buck 110 isn’t a bad choice . Actually there are no bad choices here , lol. We all tend to think the knives we have are the best but most knives ar e usually well thought out imo . Every knife is like a song
DCA, I have a Kershaw Scallion with the stainless steel blade and I am trying to give it a black finish. I have been trying the Birchwood Casey blackening for stainless steel (Presto Black SSB) and it turns the blade black but the oxide will rub off with medium pressure. Are there ways to seal the knife so that the black oxide layer will stay on during normal use? I tried soaking the blackened parts in boiled linseed oil but that also did not hold the oxide to the surface. I am now trying the process again but using a penetrating concrete sealer. Are there better ways to turn stainless steel blades/liners black that won't just flake off like paint? I am wary of using heat on blade steel.
KaBar Dozier, backlock, thin, pocket clip, ambi, tons of colors, inexpensive!
Am i the only one that realizes he said hallow ground ka-nig-it instead of knight ? Lmao
DCA, I'm about to set off on a long journey to have an audience with the King of a far away land. I need a gift!
What knife would be a suitable gift for royalty? 👑⚔🏰
Love my pocket Bushman. I wrapped handle in denim. Super strong for my camp fun.
I also purchased a CRKT Pilar from Knife Center. Great service and quality. It is my new love.
Hi DCA, I get told by people I talk to about folding knives that Slipjoints are more dangerous than locking knives, for you and knife centre staff who have cut themselves with Slipjoints or locking knives? Are Slipjoints cutting more people than locking knives?
I loved Thomas's comments at the end. The wingless mosquito image makes me think of Gary Larsen's cartoon with the frog in a wheelchair.
Are there any limited edition Halloween models coming out?
I saw one guy's collection. He had a Doug Ritter Hugue knife with orange handle scales and decorated bead.
What knife would you recommend for someone who breaks their knife all the time? Average to large size knives and extra large.
As always, love the video!
"Words are hard." ROFL
And Fly-Away, very clever!
I was going to get a Cold Steel Bushman. but I watch other videos. if you pull the release to hard the knife falls apart.
Folding camping knives… no Opinel suggestions? That’s the go to camping knife!
Hey DCA! My fiancee and I are looking for a knife we can use at our wedding to cut the cake (in our case we're having wedding pies). We want something beautiful but not just for show, because we would like to use it regularly in the kitchen. We're both knife nerds and are used to exorbitant price, but sub $400 would be best.
Additionally, can you give some pointers on what to look for when choosing kitchen knives. Any recommendations on steel selection, handle material, and blade geometry would be appreciated.
I'd recommend the Benchmade Meatcrafter in S45VN. Its not a traditional "kitchen knife" but I use it in the kitchen more than any of my other knives.
I have developed some patina on my Cruwear blade, and I am wanting to put a acid etch and a stonewash on it. Would these small rust/patina spots cause any problems while acid etching and stonewashing my blade? Can they turn into rust underneath a stonewashed finish?
Just coat the d2 with oil for storage if the knife is just sitting there not being used it shouldn't oxidize if it's coated in oil
I actually loved the answer for the most serious of the day! DCA killed it! 🤣
I had a new embarrassing knife story happen since last week. I got the Creely Cruwear Mako from you guys last week. Sat down on the couch to open it. Opened the box and the knife is not shipped inside the sheath, its in what looks like an anti-static bag with a rubber tip protector on the blade. I grabbed the bag to lift it out of the box and the knife shot straight thru the bottom of the bag and landed tip down in the top of my bare footed big toe. I was bleeding pretty bad so I left the knife and went and got bandaged up. Went back to investigate and discovered the knife had cut through the rubber tip protector which allowed it to cut right through the bag as I picked it up.
If you were from New York...youd probably sue them .....
@@yankee23a Instead I sent the maker a friendly email about what happened. Really not sure why the knife isn't shipped in the sheath, it would save cost on packaging and be safer. Can't think of any fixed blades I've bought that weren't packaged within their sheath.
DCA is there any steel, grind or blade shape that is not worth stropping?
Is there a category for thick blades and thin blades, and if so what would they be under?
QUESTION: What knife represents your personality the best, are you a Ladybug or a CS Espada, a CR Sebenza or a Buck 110 (or any other knife out there.
this is for all 3 of you guys.
Hope it gets in this time :)
Does Civivi make a knife called the Lazy Curmudgeon?
@@Ericstraordinary haha, I don't think so but they should ☺
That Buck 110 story though ahahaha just don’t be a dafty with your blades man 😂
Any recommendations on getting small rust spots off of blades? Both are aus10a, and one has a stonewashed finish. Thanks!
Try some steel wool or emery cloth, if that doesn't do it get some semichrome polish.
Barkeeper's Friend is usually my first stop. -DCA
DCA, you often talk about holding a knife in a gorilla grip. I was wondering what knife a gorilla would use. Also, could a gorilla hold a knife in a human grip.
Thank you DCA for another great video
Hey DCA! My question for next week is, I’m looking at investing into a more premium Bushcraft/survival knife (like 80/20 split) I’m considering:
Bark River in 3v/Cruwear, White River Ursus 45,
Tops BOB 154cm, Benchmade 202 or Anonimus,
Survive Knives 4.1 magnacut,
Lionsteel,
Fallkniven
maybe an Esee is s35vn.
Is there something I’m missing that is amazing and do you recommend any of the ones I listed over the others and why? I’m looking for 4”-5”ish, full tang of course, contoured micarta scales and preferably a convex grind or bevel with at semi or full stainless steel. I know I’ll have to convex some of the knives I listed myself but that’s no problem. I have purchased the Bushcraft III convex and Esee 3 micarta from knife center based on your videos. Huge thanks to you, Thomas and Seth for all you guys do. As an educator myself I appreciate the quality of your presentations. Have a great week! FYI I hav tried to find one your knives for sale but it’s like finding unicorn blood. I
Spyderco Bow River perhaps?
@@Multi-Skill-Bill I have one but I’m wanting to go with a higher quality than the bow River, it’s on ok knife, steel is kinda weak compared to 3v, Cruwear, magnacut, s35, or 154. Thanks though that is a good selection. I guess I should have stated my budget is up or down a little of $300, of course something less expensive would be great if it was good stuff.
@@chrisjosekuehl Oh, gotcha, then yeah, like an Essee with s35 would be hard to beat.
@@Multi-Skill-Bill yeah it might be the one, but Lionsteel has the b41’s and m5’s in that same price range with better ergo’s, the bob in 154cm is a bigger blade, I’m really leaning towards something with a thicker stock, the survive knives 4.1 comes in magnacut and has almost a 5” blade for like $250 for preorder, that’s a tough package to beat and their handles are very very nice. I’ve put in an order for a bravo1 in Cruwear but if I don’t like it I don’t have to buy it when it gets done, I really like the fallkniven F1x in cos and I wish I wouldn’t have given it away and it comes in elmax now, so many choices, I just don’t want to buy half a dozen $200-$300 knives to find the best one. But that might have to be what I do. I will say the Bushcraft III convex has done pretty good, it’s a true convex grind to a zero bevel edge, I haven’t buttoned with it yet but it feathersticks very well, the esee 3 is ok, it dulls pretty quickly and the handles are terrible. I’ll probably get some 3d micarta scales from someone aftermarket.
I would steer clear of Bark River, they are not a reputable company, which is why most the reputable dealers won't carry their products. They have a history of bad (or rather NO) customer service and have been caught numerous times using cheap steel instead of what it was labeled as. Google their owners history if you haven't and you will likely not want anything to do with his products, he is a con man and has ripped off some of the kindest people in the business.
For recommendations I would go with the Benchmade 202 or ESEE in S35VN. I'd stay away from the Lionsteel until I heard some positive feedback on their heat treat. The 202 sounds more like what you're after IMO. I have the Puukko (shorter version) and the handle is about as comfortable as they come. I also have the S35VN ESEE 4 with 3d scales and absolutely love it, but I think the 5" 3V blade on the Leuku is a little will serve you better for all around tasks than the shorter ESEE.
I have a Wenger Ranger 55. Nice saw, locking blade. I think Victorinox has an equivalent.
Excellent episode. Educational and fun! The first question was an engaging one. I thought you would say Rat1 d
First before the Buck - cool surprise.
I love my Badlands Vagabond for its looks and action, but yeah, camping and survival isn't quite the job for it, I think it's best for lighter duty things. I love my CJRB Taiga when I need something beefier but it has bearings too. : ( Still, plenty of good options.
Next level Dad joke at the end
Another great saw knife is the victorionox equinox. My spelling is ish, but I’ve had it for quite a few years and they’re really nice to hold and fairly compact. Definitely recommend
Mora Bushcraft Black. Mora Spark as complement
My stash knife is the Tenacious lightweight. Love it.
I’m more of a fixed blade guy when it comes to survival or outdoor purposes. For me, folders are only convenient for edc, even though there are some great bushcraft folders out there.
I purchased a Milwaukee Fast-Back Drop Point recently. I thought it was going to just be a button lock like their utility knives but it also has a liner lock. Every once in a while when I flick it open the liner lock goes past the back of blade and jams up. Can this happen on regular knives over time? Is it the lock that wore out or was the geometry of the blade not proper to stop it? Also are there other knives out there that use both a button lock and liner lock?
Its either poor QC or poor design. I've had Bokers with the same problem, and 1 spyderco compression lock that suffer from overtravel and lockstick.
Thank you Dca for the valuable information
SR1 all day long!!
An easy way to test how crisp a spine is to scrape it down your finger nail and see if it removes scrapings, that pocket bushman is great but that lock can be dangerous for the inexperienced or not as strong lol but im not a doctor 🤣 your miles may vary.
I bought the Steel Will Modus a year and a half ago and couldn't open it. The detent was insane. I ended up returning it. I own 185 fixed and folding knives.
Do hollow grind have any advantages, or flat grind is better anyway?
I feel like the cold steel Sr1 lite should be in this list. Can often find them for less than $40
Bought my son one for boy scouts he loves it
Pocket bushman is my toolbox knife. I used it to cut out over 600 square yards of glued carpet last. Lockup is awesome. Steel is soft and doesn’t last super long, but super easy to touch up on a pocket stone I keep next to it. Also if you are thinking about it to carry, a deep carry Shaman clip fits perfectly on it!
I loved this knife and wanted to make it work but I had 2 of them lock up permanently on me. CS knows about the issue and they had allegedly fixed it before I bought a second knife. But the second locked up same as the first.
@@southernsteel4476 that’s crazy and unfortunate. I must have got one that was produced after they fixed it. I definitely used it in a way that would have locked it up if it had the issue. With the spine on the ground, edge side up pushing on the lock through the glued carpet on the ground still. Luckily I haven’t had that issue.
Mora should just make a flipper with there classic blade
For cheap camp/survival knives, the Ontario Camp Plus folders are probably worth putting in the mix almost as a companion knife because they're so stoopid cheap. Could then focus less on a single all-rounder, use the Camp Plus for light food prep stuff and have something more dedicated for the survival use. That'd be my angle on that question.
Recently purchased a SAK Huntsman and then added a suspension clip based on some excellent DCA advise. Love the set up. Great way to pocket EDC a SAK.
For wood saw part: how about leatherman signal
Hi DCA. My mother (aged 82) recently complained that her thumb is too weak to close her liner lock flippers. She currently uses a Kizer Lieb and an Artisan Cutlery Shark 3”. She loves the excellent flipping action of both knives but needs to close them two-handed. I suggested buying her a button lock flipper which I think is easier for her. Can you recommend one which fits her smaller than average hands? Budget around 100$ but I am willing to pay more for a perfect fit. Thanks
Do you have a knife shop anywhere nearby where she could try one out first? My grandma lost a lot of the "meat" in her fingers when she got up over 80 - it wasn't just the strength but her fingertips were like soft grapes. I have a Kizer Swayback that works fine in my little hands (I'm not 80+). That might be a good candidate for her - the button sticks out far enough when it's open that she could press on it with the side of her thumb knuckle if her fingertip won't do it. But if you could take her shopping that might be best.
Check out the Civivi Altus! If she wants a flipper instead of thumbstuds then the Civivi Cogent. The WE Culex has both and is that 3" size thats probably what she is after, but its about double your budget.
You advocated for people to build their own knives. I assume most of us are not going to have the capability of making a truly "raw parts" to "finished product". Is there a kit that you recommend as a toe-in-the water?
Search "knife blank" on their site. They have a hand full of full tang options that just require you making some scales and attaching them, which can be done with common hand tools.
Hi David,
I like to do my feather sticks with the quarter round of a tracker knife. Is it possible to have the same king of feeling with a recurve blade? If so, how aggressive has to be the recurve? Thanks.
The Old Timer 970T Buzzsaw has both a plain edge blade and a saw. Love the channel. Keep up the great work.
pros vs cons..flipper vs assisted vs full auto
Hi DCA & Thomas. Another great bunch of cutting tools on the table. Great knife story & mishaps. Perhaps that has open a new catagory in "What you shoudn't do with a Knife".Prevention is better than a cure.! We have always carry a Buck 110, use & abuse it but never cut or stab ourselves. Lesson lived & learn perhaps. Great vid matey. Welcome back Thomas. Warm greetings from Australia.
Good timing on the first question. I just ordered the "Ganzo G7452P Tactical Folding Knife 440C Blade G10 Handle Axis Lock". It has three things I want to try; it's a Ganzo, thumb studs and axis lock. I realize it's not the best example of any of those, but I couldn't resist at $12!
I’m a big fan of the Crawford 1. Some folks are hung up on the steel, but it has served me very well, tends to occupy my pocket a lot more than some more expensive knives I have. My Crawford is broken in as well and it flips open very easily and smoothly. I
Like it
DCA said it was 4116 steel but I believe it’s 4034, a budget Japanese product that should be just fine at this price point. I just grabbed one at $29 bucks off an Amazon special and I can’t wait!
I stand corrected… it just arrived. 4116 stamped on it. Love it! Big blade but very light in the hand or pocket. ❤
Are there any SV steel knives available?
I just made a Bowie knife for my bushcraft chopper.I pair it with my Mora robust and they do great.
I stash Moraknivs EVERYWHERE. They are so inexpensive, and even with the carbon steel, a simple lard treatment will help them resist rust for a while even in storage. They are nearly indestructible, and the bright colored handles have been described as "friendly and non-aggressive" and are easy to find in camping settings.
Their sandvik stainless is amazing and very stainless. Can't go wrong with a Morakniv. Wax coating a carbon blade protects it's amazingly and lasts a long time, you don't need much, heated wax melted on an old rag and wipe the blade. Comes off easy, and better than oil for long term storage.
DCA, for the second queastion about the saw, you mentioned lockbacks with a blade and saw combo, Mikov from the Czech Republic still make a few in that style. They also make some hunting fixed blades with a folding saw in the handle, but that looks way less practical. (Edit: they even sell their Predator switchblade with a saw on!)
I did this several years ago. I got Buck Large Bantams. The handle feels pretty good, it has the same 420HC. It's not really fidgety, but it doesn't need that.
Blade smith and a word smith. The Rat 1 is "unimpeachable", then butchered it with "lock backable"
Davidable isable justable addingable "able" toable theable endable ofable wordsable.
I do whatever is workable :P -DCA
To answer your question at 15:16
Folding knife and saw combos that I have include:
Puma SGB Warden (a very nice knife),
Schrade 97OT, 69OT, and the 2144OT Copperhead Double Rattler
I like the cold steel fin wolf, have several laying around in several different colors.
I like the idea of multiple stashes, don't think I really need to buy more knives for this. I could make at least 10 stashes and still have plenty of knives left. All good knives, but a surprise by the time you need the stash!
Yeah, I could leave a Benchmade, Spyderco or Demko in every room of my house, in all my vehicles, and in a bugout bag for the wife and I and all 4 kids and still have a few left over to leave in the collection.
mora knive for the s-kid
Thank you again David 🎉
How many chucks could a wood knife chuck if a wood knife could chuck wood?
Here is the answer ;) -DCA ruclips.net/video/jWSzjg-lUjo/видео.html