Update thought you might be interested. Recieved tracksaw back from makita factory service center. If you remember I couldn't get saw slop,side to side, out when in guide rails. They sent me a brand new cordless track saw instead of repairing the one I sent in. The inintial issue remains with new one. Saw will slide in all 3 guide rails ok but saw wiggles from side to side, again, in two of them. Disappointing when I consider aprox. $700.00 spent for saw and 3 guide rails and rail connect bars from TSO. Well hey that's life but man I feel like..ya I'm gonna say it, maybe festool would have been better. Bummer
I recently upgraded from a makita track saw to a festool ts60. I noticed on the makita track i had to completely tighten up the cam knobs on the saw to get the saw to have no slop in it whike using the festool track the saw has no movement while gliding. I dont want to spend the eextra hundreds of dollars on the festool tracks but if im going to spend 1200 dollars on a saw I want it to be more accurate. I would recommend buying the FS tracks if youre running a FS saw. The makitas will work but won't be as accurate. My .2 cents
I have three Makita 55” rails and one 39”. They’re all different. As you mentioned the big problem is when joining 2 rails. You adjust the saw to slide perfect on the 1st rail the when you transition to second it’s either to tight or it has too much wiggle. My solution was was to find the two 55” rails that are the closest. On the tightest track I took a small block of wood with some course sand paper attached and sanded down the side of the hump that the adjusters rub against until both tracks felt the same. Then I polished it up with finer grit. Now I have one set that match for long cuts. It’s frustrating that the consumer has to deal with this issue. The saw is great. But the guide rails suck.
I have the makita cordless track saw since November 2021. Couldn't get slop out of this saw consistently while in makita 39,55 inch guide rails no matter what. And afterwards of course referencing the now stepped splinter gaurd to a pencil line got me fed up completely. Makita told me the problem sounded like a factory defect. I shipped it to a M. Factory service center should be getting it back next wk. Now I see from your demonstration the track tolerances are different in makita brand. I guess I should of checked that - at the time I was annoyed. Thankyou I'm relieved the prom is exposed. Good job
For something as simple to make as this, it's pretty concerning they would get this so wrong. The point of even getting a track is for precision, so it's odd they don't have any quality control here.
I'm not sure about the Makita brand of Track saws, but with the Festool you have two adjustable jaws on the top surface of your saw deck that you can adjust to really hone in the amount of play you get on your guide. I have mine with a medium amount of play, barely tighter than how I received from the factory. Any tighter I would be fighting it. I am sure Makita has similar feature for adjusting.
I jave same issue with makit tracks, and they been bought as a pack 2x1500mm , i had cut the rubber separate on each one(and adjusted the saw in each one)And after i joined them the rubben been cutted again.
i have the same problems with my makita tracks aswell. i have a 3000 mm 1400 mm and 1080mm they all are diffrent but the same brand. I was thinking about going for full festool too. Now im thinking of having 2 saw for diffrent tracks...
That would fix the issue with two saws. The biggest irritation that I have is with the 36v and having to remove that back battery for adjustment. 40v may not be an issue.
@@campbellbuiltyeah even if thats a small thing its really annoying. I have the 36v aswell. havn't tried the 40v, but i heard its good. I actually picked up the corded festool the other day. Adjustment feels way better! The adjustment knobs wear out pretty fast on the makita. Thats also one of the problem with having to adjust it. With that said. Its still a good tool :P Thanks for your time!
Seems like the answer could be to buy the longest one and cut it into two desired lengths. Then both are from the same extrusion batch. Or buy both rails at the same time from the same place. Pretty disappointing QC though.
I don't see why this complaint. The datasheets show that there is a difference of 0.3mm in the rail size. Festool and makita are not the same, if you want to mix both, you will have to adjust back in between.
I don’t see it as a complaint. I’m just letting people know (new to Makita tracks) that there’s a significant size difference even from Makita to Makita.
Good old Chinese factory quality control ? How is it possible that so much tolerance is allowed within the same product when you can simply use a vernier to measure the guide after it comes out of the extrusion machine and cooled ? It's simply poor manufacturing techique. It's unacceptable for a product at 1000.00 next time you buy a rail take a vernier and some string line to test the track for straightness and guide matching your other tracks .
The funny thing is they sell the rods allowing these rails to be joined for a longer rail. With how much the thickness varies how would you join them 😀😀? Appreciate the comment.
@@campbellbuilt lots of room for improvement by a thinking competitor. The tracks coming out at 99.00 are just as good/bad as the ones from festool at 3x the price /
Хобби![Which Rails Work? A Guide to Guiderails [video #403]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_HtpT_bK7zw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Which Rails Work? A Guide to Guiderails [video #403]](/img/tr.png)
Update thought you might be interested. Recieved tracksaw back from makita factory service center. If you remember I couldn't get saw slop,side to side, out when in guide rails.
They sent me a brand new cordless track saw instead of repairing the one I sent in. The inintial issue remains with new one.
Saw will slide in all 3 guide rails ok but saw wiggles from side to side, again, in two of them. Disappointing when I consider aprox. $700.00 spent for saw and 3 guide rails and rail connect bars from TSO. Well hey that's life but man I feel like..ya I'm gonna say it, maybe festool would have been better. Bummer
I have the 8 ft Makita track and the shipping container it came in was solid. No problems at all with shipping and track is straight
I recently upgraded from a makita track saw to a festool ts60. I noticed on the makita track i had to completely tighten up the cam knobs on the saw to get the saw to have no slop in it whike using the festool track the saw has no movement while gliding. I dont want to spend the eextra hundreds of dollars on the festool tracks but if im going to spend 1200 dollars on a saw I want it to be more accurate. I would recommend buying the FS tracks if youre running a FS saw. The makitas will work but won't be as accurate. My .2 cents
I totally agree. I don’t recommend the Makita tracks any longer.
Hi what camera and lens equipment do you use for your video? Excellent image quality!
Thanks….Sony as7iii body most likely I had the 16-36 gm lenses on. I use very little of the potential and capability’s of it😀
@@campbellbuilt Cool. Thanks for the info!
I have three Makita 55” rails and one 39”. They’re all different. As you mentioned the big problem is when joining 2 rails. You adjust the saw to slide perfect on the 1st rail the when you transition to second it’s either to tight or it has too much wiggle.
My solution was was to find the two 55” rails that are the closest. On the tightest track I took a small block of wood with some course sand paper attached and sanded down the side of the hump that the adjusters rub against until both tracks felt the same. Then I polished it up with finer grit. Now I have one set that match for long cuts.
It’s frustrating that the consumer has to deal with this issue. The saw is great. But the guide rails suck.
I have a lot of Makita tools and their all pretty awesome but these rails☹️. Sanding them to true them up is a good idea.
I have the makita cordless track saw since November 2021.
Couldn't get slop out of this saw consistently while in makita 39,55 inch guide rails no matter what. And afterwards of course referencing the now stepped splinter gaurd to a pencil line got me fed up completely.
Makita told me the problem sounded like a factory defect. I shipped it to a M. Factory service center should be getting it back next wk. Now I see from your demonstration the track tolerances are different in makita brand. I guess I should of checked that - at the time I was annoyed. Thankyou I'm relieved the prom is exposed. Good job
I’m surprised others have not talked about this issue. I need to compare some Festool tracks to see if they vary as well. Appreciate the comment.
For something as simple to make as this, it's pretty concerning they would get this so wrong. The point of even getting a track is for precision, so it's odd they don't have any quality control here.
I'm not sure about the Makita brand of Track saws, but with the Festool you have two adjustable jaws on the top surface of your saw deck that you can adjust to really hone in the amount of play you get on your guide. I have mine with a medium amount of play, barely tighter than how I received from the factory. Any tighter I would be fighting it. I am sure Makita has similar feature for adjusting.
Getting precision on the track is not the issue, the issue is switching between tracks without needing to change settings
I jave same issue with makit tracks, and they been bought as a pack 2x1500mm , i had cut the rubber separate on each one(and adjusted the saw in each one)And after i joined them the rubben been cutted again.
That’s annoying
i have the same problems with my makita tracks aswell. i have a 3000 mm 1400 mm and 1080mm they all are diffrent but the same brand. I was thinking about going for full festool too. Now im thinking of having 2 saw for diffrent tracks...
That would fix the issue with two saws. The biggest irritation that I have is with the 36v and having to remove that back battery for adjustment. 40v may not be an issue.
@@campbellbuiltyeah even if thats a small thing its really annoying. I have the 36v aswell. havn't tried the 40v, but i heard its good. I actually picked up the corded festool the other day. Adjustment feels way better! The adjustment knobs wear out pretty fast on the makita. Thats also one of the problem with having to adjust it. With that said. Its still a good tool :P
Thanks for your time!
What I don’t like about my Makita track saw is short electric cord and lack of splitter for kick back
Riving Knife would be a nice addition on this tool.
Seems like the answer could be to buy the longest one and cut it into two desired lengths. Then both are from the same extrusion batch. Or buy both rails at the same time from the same place. Pretty disappointing QC though.
I had thought about cutting them from a longer track also. Good idea and appreciate the comment.
I think I will do that.
I don't see why this complaint. The datasheets show that there is a difference of 0.3mm in the rail size. Festool and makita are not the same, if you want to mix both, you will have to adjust back in between.
I don’t see it as a complaint. I’m just letting people know (new to Makita tracks) that there’s a significant size difference even from Makita to Makita.
Good old Chinese factory quality control ? How is it possible that so much tolerance is allowed within the same product when you can simply use a vernier to measure the guide after it comes out of the extrusion machine and cooled ? It's simply poor manufacturing techique. It's unacceptable for a product at 1000.00 next time you buy a rail take a vernier and some string line to test the track for straightness and guide matching your other tracks .
The funny thing is they sell the rods allowing these rails to be joined for a longer rail. With how much the thickness varies how would you join them 😀😀? Appreciate the comment.
@@campbellbuilt lots of room for improvement by a thinking competitor. The tracks coming out at 99.00 are just as good/bad as the ones from festool at 3x the price /
Makes me wonder if they use multiple manufacturers.