In the thread feature menu notice that there is a field named "class". This is a standard for how tight the thread should be. A lower number means less tight, or technically less "precise". For resin prints all I need is to select class 1 and it will work without any other modification to the thread and it will also fit existing threads from screws, bolts etc you already have.
Very awesome that you mentioned the need to change the thread pitch, etc., to be smaller for the bolt than the hole. I've tried more than a few models that didnt take that into account and had to learn it myself as well.
I found this tutorial quite useful. I have been struggling with parts that fit too tight and this makes things very clear. Thank you. I also saw Baldur's comment below on selecting the class of thread. Cheers to you both.
Thank you! This is a great video and produced the exact results i was looking for on my 3D prints. I never really tried printing 3D threads because they would never work, and I've always tapped or threaded the parts to get them to fit properly. Now I have a solution to actually print 3D threads that work! Much appreciated!!! ✅
Thank you! I have been trying to figure this out for a while now. I figured out how to make the Threads but was tremendously overthinking how to make them easier to use!!!
Just go download the model of the bolt you want to print from McMaster Carr. Subtract it from the thing you want to screw it into. Works with any CAD program.
Are those parametric? I haven't messed with them. Seems like it would just be faster and easier to do it this way and not have to deal with modifying an existing model. Then again, I haven't tried it!
The size of your print is measured from the centre of your nozzle. When working with a 0.4mm nozzle, making a 10mm rod, or a 10mm hole will result in a 10.2mm rod and a 9.8mm hole. This has nothing to do with how well calibrated your printer is, but with the physical aspects of the nozzle, thus the thickness of the extruded filament. Removing 0.1mm on all sides means removing 0.2mm of the thickness of the rod (or screw). Doing the same on the inside of the threaded hole, means you now have a 10mm screw and a 10mm threaded hole.
No it doesn't, the slicer accounts for thickness of nozzle. Also, what you said doesn't make sense because if it this in fact measure from the center then the printed part would have a diameter of 10.4 because you would have an extra 0.2mm on both sides.
This is great! I was new to fusion for a little desk cable grommet assembly I did and forgot to adjust for printing. More sanding and filing than I cared for. Excited for your gaming mods for gamers with disabilities!
In Cinema3D, Blender (and so on) I just create a circle, parent it to a null object, offset the circle from the null by a small amount so the null is not quite in the centre of the circle . . . then just duplicate the circle vertically as many times as I need with the null rotating by a small amount each time (then loft all the circles together) . . . basically a thread is just a circle rotating around a small offset as it moves vertically.
I found this to "fix" my issue with too much tightness.. This method allowed me to print in 0.20 with a BambuLab in PLA. I had to modify both threads.. (the bolt and the nut) to make it fit.. It was not enough to simply modify the bolt threads...
Is there a way to calculate the amount of shrinkage for PLA? That would probably make it a bit more efficient than just printing multiple rings relative to the actual measurement, right?
Any suggestion/experience in terms of adjustments for mating a printed part to its metal counterpart (i.e., a printed bolt mated with a metal nut)? Or does the .1mm adjustment give you what you need for that combination?
I've made a couple of small plastic bottles but when it comes to the threads I get a looping effect on the bottom of the thread any Idea what I'm doing wrong
does that actually work for you when 3d printing both parts? For me they end up too tight to actually work, but it's been quite a while since I've tried it.
@@CalebKraftmakes I haven't done it a lot, but simply scaling the threaded portion in X and Y (not along the thread axis) will give it a little clearance to thread together better. It's all up to your printer's ability to print accurately after that
In the thread feature menu notice that there is a field named "class". This is a standard for how tight the thread should be. A lower number means less tight, or technically less "precise". For resin prints all I need is to select class 1 and it will work without any other modification to the thread and it will also fit existing threads from screws, bolts etc you already have.
well now, this is useful!
Very helpful, thank you and to Caleb as well.
@Baldur Norddahl
Is that a Fusion 360 feature? All I see in the thread menu under the class option is 4g6g and 6g.
@@Know-Way yes but apparently it is not available on all types of threads.
Very awesome that you mentioned the need to change the thread pitch, etc., to be smaller for the bolt than the hole. I've tried more than a few models that didnt take that into account and had to learn it myself as well.
yup, took a lot of trial and error. However, if the pinned comment is correct, it could just be a quick setting in fusion!
I found this tutorial quite useful. I have been struggling with parts that fit too tight and this makes things very clear. Thank you. I also saw Baldur's comment below on selecting the class of thread. Cheers to you both.
This is so helpful. I've always wondered how to do threading for a print but this makes it so easy.
be sure to read the pinned comment too! might even make it easier.
1 - Such a cool concept
2 - Such a wonderful cause, making people's lives better. You ROCK!
aaaw, thanks!
Thank you! This is a great video and produced the exact results i was looking for on my 3D prints. I never really tried printing 3D threads because they would never work, and I've always tapped or threaded the parts to get them to fit properly. Now I have a solution to actually print 3D threads that work! Much appreciated!!! ✅
Thank you! I have been trying to figure this out for a while now. I figured out how to make the Threads but was tremendously overthinking how to make them easier to use!!!
Just go download the model of the bolt you want to print from McMaster Carr. Subtract it from the thing you want to screw it into. Works with any CAD program.
Just takes a while longer (even though the MMC library is built-in to fusion)
Are those parametric? I haven't messed with them. Seems like it would just be faster and easier to do it this way and not have to deal with modifying an existing model. Then again, I haven't tried it!
A helical rack & pinion test could be another good option.
The size of your print is measured from the centre of your nozzle.
When working with a 0.4mm nozzle, making a 10mm rod, or a 10mm hole will result in a 10.2mm rod and a 9.8mm hole.
This has nothing to do with how well calibrated your printer is, but with the physical aspects of the nozzle, thus the thickness of the extruded filament.
Removing 0.1mm on all sides means removing 0.2mm of the thickness of the rod (or screw). Doing the same on the inside of the threaded hole, means you now have a 10mm screw and a 10mm threaded hole.
Can't you overlap layers and print outside layers first? I guess there would be a minimum possible width.
No it doesn't, the slicer accounts for thickness of nozzle. Also, what you said doesn't make sense because if it this in fact measure from the center then the printed part would have a diameter of 10.4 because you would have an extra 0.2mm on both sides.
@@MrBrettStar if you have set that setting in your slicer, then that's True. Lots of people have not set that correct in their slicers.
@@3dPrintCreator unless your are using something from 10 years ago I’m pretty sure it’s the default 😂
@@MrBrettStar lol... could be. Still using Simplify3D as my slicer of choice. :-)
I also find doubling the scale of the thread in the z axis makes it much easier to print.
Worked a charm thanks!
this is how I do it, but if you do it differently, or in other software, I'd love to hear it!
This is great! I was new to fusion for a little desk cable grommet assembly I did and forgot to adjust for printing. More sanding and filing than I cared for. Excited for your gaming mods for gamers with disabilities!
In Cinema3D, Blender (and so on) I just create a circle, parent it to a null object, offset the circle from the null by a small amount so the null is not quite in the centre of the circle . . . then just duplicate the circle vertically as many times as I need with the null rotating by a small amount each time (then loft all the circles together) . . . basically a thread is just a circle rotating around a small offset as it moves vertically.
Thanks for sharing and great that you help disadvantaged people 👍🏻
I found this to "fix" my issue with too much tightness..
This method allowed me to print in 0.20 with a BambuLab in PLA.
I had to modify both threads.. (the bolt and the nut) to make it fit.. It was not enough to simply modify the bolt threads...
Very useful, thanks!
Heya friend. Cool project, cool idea.
Awesome! Thank you!
Is there a way to calculate the amount of shrinkage for PLA? That would probably make it a bit more efficient than just printing multiple rings relative to the actual measurement, right?
Any suggestion/experience in terms of adjustments for mating a printed part to its metal counterpart (i.e., a printed bolt mated with a metal nut)? Or does the .1mm adjustment give you what you need for that combination?
This is interesting. I use Blender, PrusaSlic3r, and Mk3S+. I'll might try to build a metric thread index.
that would rock
ty for thinking about the disabled community; though this idea does not directly apply to me, I appreciate you thinking about us :)
aaaw, thanks! The upcoming contest will be for non-standard hand positions, so it should hopefully be helpful for a wide variety of people.
I've made a couple of small plastic bottles but when it comes to the threads I get a looping effect on the bottom of the thread any Idea what I'm doing wrong
There is a big text of 'Make:' in the top left hand corner. Might be wise to remove for future videos
I go to McMaster and download something with the thread I want in it...
does that actually work for you when 3d printing both parts? For me they end up too tight to actually work, but it's been quite a while since I've tried it.
@@CalebKraftmakes I haven't done it a lot, but simply scaling the threaded portion in X and Y (not along the thread axis) will give it a little clearance to thread together better. It's all up to your printer's ability to print accurately after that
Me: Oh making 3d print threads is going to be hard.
Video: Right click and select "Thread"
Me: ... o.O
I can’t believe in 2022 Fusion still can not make NTP pipe threads for 3d printing. How lame is this software!
wow potato quality