wow thanks a billion for all the tips and all. i did not even know my electric choke needed to be grounded or how to ground it. now i know. i have the same carb as you have choke and all..on my 1989 19" bayliner four cylinder ford inboard. i keeep my garaged so it never is in freezing weather or gets weathered.. just had head redone and now i will ground that choke.
If you adjust the electric choke cold, adjust it SO THE CHOKE IS IN A 1/3 OPEN POSITION, summer time. 1/3 crank of the throttle and start. Closed it takes too much time for the choke to completely open and idle the engine properly, Adjust for cold weather.
when my boat is good and warmed up it seems to bog down at full throttle and almost feel like its running out of gas. do you think its becasue the choke is advanced to far counter clock wise?
i tested my electric choke and it does not need a ground wire...it is grounded by the housing to the carb body and that plate inside is directly connected to the spring inside and therefore it automatically grounds to the carb body when you bolt that assembly into place
Great Vid bud ! Do you know if the nozzle inside the carb keeps bleeding fuel while the engine is idling and also if you put it in gear!? My carb bleeds fuel only when I push the throttle before I start it. Is this normal ?? My engine just want to stall its not study at all! HELP PLEASE!!
Sounds like your float is incorrectly set or the needle valve is leaking inside the carburetor. I’ll be posting a video on rebuilding this style carburetor in the next couple days.
Will this cause the choke to be stuck on open and won't start? Mines feel real stiff and it's stuck on open everytime I hit the throttle even if the motor is off
Most likely some corrosion on your linkages, unless someone adjusted it so it doesn’t close. Can’t hurt to remove the cover and see if it’s corroded inside.
@@bryandempsey5341 black ground goes to one of the screws right on the choke cover, it can come from your ground wires in engine harness or directly to the battery or engine block
I got a 1990 mercruiser 3.0 and my choke doesnt snap back to closed when i move my throttle. When she cools off with the engine off she will return to closed but nothong on tbe linkage makes the choke want to be forced shut???
If the engine is warmed up, as it should be to engage gears, then I would confirm that the choke plate is open mostly if not all. Most likely you have a problem with the neutral cut off on top of the engine. Look at the top of engine when someone shifts the gear, no need to have it running, the roller on the cut off should stay in the middle and not press the switch. If it doesn't then you need to adjust the linkage. There are good video's to help with that. Other things could effect eng. failure like timing too.
My housing is loose. Do you take off the front cover like you did and hopefully there is something to tighten up inside that goes to the carb? I can put it a little and you hear air sucking in towards the carb. Do it need a gasket where it fastens onto the carb? Thank you
@@maineboatguy thank you. Also, I’m going to put the same oil as the owner put in. He used Rotella T4 15 w 40. May go with the T6 fully Synthetic. Is this okay for a gas 130 hp mercruiser? Thanks in advance
Jorge Mercado that hose connects to the fuel pump. If the diaphragm breaks in the fuel pump it'll feed the fuel to the carburetor rather than filling the engine with fuel.
I turned on key and watched for choke to move, Nothing. I checked for voltage @ choke and nothing. Now when i turn over motor i got voltage. This goes the same for fuel pump. Problem im having is it only starts when i put gas in top of carb. Wont stay running tho. It just ran last week fine. Im restoring a boat thats sat for over a year. Already replaced all bellows, seals, and gimble bearing on out drive and foot. Fresh fluids and gas. I keep thinking its the fuel pump as it does not seem to be getting gas now. Tested pump and it does work on battery. But it is not pumping any gas out now. Voltage at fuel pump plug is only 10v when turned over. So im stumped with exception to pump is faulty
Randy on the Rampage on the port side of the engine (right side if you're facing the engine) you'll see a sensor with 2 wires going to it (they should be the purple wires) under the exhaust manifold in the engine block itself, that is the oil pressure sensor. If you by pass the switch it will most likely fix the issue. Most likely a bad sensor if your engine is full of oil.
But don't run the engine for long with it by passed as you'll never know if you lose oil pressure with out that sensor (of course unless you watch the gauge the whole time you're driving ha ha)
@@maineboatguy Well ill give it a try. Nothing to loose. Im thinking its a bad or falty ign switch as it has run sometimes not others. And there is no 12v going to choke now when switch is on. This the 4.3 btw. I'll let you know what happens thanks for replying.
Yes there should be a ground wire coming from the engine harness. If not you can just make a jumper from a good ground to one of the choke mounting screws.
Matt Gordon I ended up having to reset this one to lean as well. After letting it sit overnight it stayed choked too long during the next startup! They can be a pain to get perfect 👌
@@maineboatguy I think that's the exact problem I'm having. Just the first 10 seconds of startup is really rich. I set the choke so it's slightly open. I'll let you know how it goes. Check out the video I did of tuning it
It may be a couple years old but the video is still helping people! Thanks.
wow thanks a billion for all the tips and all. i did not even know my electric choke needed to be grounded or how to ground it. now i know. i have the same carb as you have choke and all..on my 1989 19" bayliner four cylinder ford inboard. i keeep my garaged so it never is in freezing weather or gets weathered.. just had head redone and now i will ground that choke.
If you adjust the electric choke cold, adjust it SO THE CHOKE IS IN A 1/3 OPEN POSITION, summer time. 1/3 crank of the throttle and start. Closed it takes too much time for the choke to completely open and idle the engine properly,
Adjust for cold weather.
Great video. I wish I would have watched this video a few days ago; it would've saved me a few hours!
Thanks for the quality insight...
Great video, if you feel my choke unit when the engines running for a while it’s hot, I’m guessing this is normal then ?…thanks helped me a lot
when my boat is good and warmed up it seems to bog down at full throttle and almost feel like its running out of gas. do you think its becasue the choke is advanced to far counter clock wise?
i tested my electric choke and it does not need a ground wire...it is grounded by the housing to the carb body and that plate inside is directly connected to the spring inside and therefore it automatically grounds to the carb body when you bolt that assembly into place
Any idea on where I can get the pigtail connector that connects to the choke? Mine fell off and need to replace.
i got sent here from how to choke someone out video... not quite what i thought it was. liked and subscribed.
crunky trunks 😂😂
Great Vid bud ! Do you know if the nozzle inside the carb keeps bleeding fuel while the engine is idling and also if you put it in gear!? My carb bleeds fuel only when I push the throttle before I start it. Is this normal ?? My engine just want to stall its not study at all! HELP PLEASE!!
Sounds like your float is incorrectly set or the needle valve is leaking inside the carburetor. I’ll be posting a video on rebuilding this style carburetor in the next couple days.
Will this cause the choke to be stuck on open and won't start? Mines feel real stiff and it's stuck on open everytime I hit the throttle even if the motor is off
Most likely some corrosion on your linkages, unless someone adjusted it so it doesn’t close. Can’t hurt to remove the cover and see if it’s corroded inside.
@@maineboatguy ok would that cause the boat from not starting?
@@deltaking209 yes it will cause it to be extremely hard to start if at all with choke stuck open
@@maineboatguy do you have a email I can email you and ask some questions I'm new to the boat life and a few questions lol
In what situation’s would you perform this task?
Only if you choke doesn’t close when cold or open when running for a minute or so
I just installed the electric carb in my boat have the power wire done , where does the black ground wire go to on the engine
@@bryandempsey5341 black ground goes to one of the screws right on the choke cover, it can come from your ground wires in engine harness or directly to the battery or engine block
will it do wheelies NOW?
I got a 1990 mercruiser 3.0 and my choke doesnt snap back to closed when i move my throttle. When she cools off with the engine off she will return to closed but nothong on tbe linkage makes the choke want to be forced shut???
The spring in the choke is what forces it closed
If the choke is not adjusted make the carb dripping???? When you turn off
I have never seen a diesel run with a carburetor. Those are some shakey engines... But good info!
I have the same boat , what prop do u run ? what is your cruise speed at what rpm
Sorry that’s a customers boat so I do not have that info.
Would that electric choke setting have anything to do with dying upon gear change?
If the engine is warmed up, as it should be to engage gears, then I would confirm that the choke plate is open mostly if not all. Most likely you have a problem with the neutral cut off on top of the engine. Look at the top of engine when someone shifts the gear, no need to have it running, the roller on the cut off should stay in the middle and not press the switch. If it doesn't then you need to adjust the linkage. There are good video's to help with that. Other things could effect eng. failure like timing too.
@danielb1622 it ended up being the lower shift cable but those are all things improving into also thankyou for answering
I have an older boat(1988 omc 4 cylinder)and am switching to electric choke but am wondering if the hot wire should go to a ballas resistor?
I’m not sure why you’d need a ballast resistor? I would think running the choke directly off your purple wire from engine harness will work fine.
where does the gear reservoir hose attach too mine came loose
My housing is loose. Do you take off the front cover like you did and hopefully there is something to tighten up inside that goes to the carb?
I can put it a little and you hear air sucking in towards the carb.
Do it need a gasket where it fastens onto the carb? Thank you
Yes there are screws behind the cover that'll tighten up the housing. I'm sure when you tighten the screws it'll stop the leak.
@@maineboatguy thank you. Also, I’m going to put the same oil as the owner put in. He used Rotella T4 15 w 40. May go with the T6 fully Synthetic. Is this okay for a gas 130 hp mercruiser? Thanks in advance
@@leesire yes that will be ok for that engine!
@@maineboatguy thank you
That vacuum line on the side of the carb...where does it end up at ,can u please explain what it does? Thanks
Jorge Mercado that hose connects to the fuel pump. If the diaphragm breaks in the fuel pump it'll feed the fuel to the carburetor rather than filling the engine with fuel.
@@maineboatguy thanks u much
Is the power supply coming from the alternator
Power is supplied from the purple (key on power) wire in the engine harness.
Nicely done.
Thank you!
I turned on key and watched for choke to move, Nothing. I checked for voltage @ choke and nothing. Now when i turn over motor i got voltage. This goes the same for fuel pump. Problem im having is it only starts when i put gas in top of carb. Wont stay running tho. It just ran last week fine. Im restoring a boat thats sat for over a year. Already replaced all bellows, seals, and gimble bearing on out drive and foot. Fresh fluids and gas. I keep thinking its the fuel pump as it does not seem to be getting gas now. Tested pump and it does work on battery. But it is not pumping any gas out now. Voltage at fuel pump plug is only 10v when turned over. So im stumped with exception to pump is faulty
Randy on the Rampage on the port side of the engine (right side if you're facing the engine) you'll see a sensor with 2 wires going to it (they should be the purple wires) under the exhaust manifold in the engine block itself, that is the oil pressure sensor. If you by pass the switch it will most likely fix the issue. Most likely a bad sensor if your engine is full of oil.
But don't run the engine for long with it by passed as you'll never know if you lose oil pressure with out that sensor (of course unless you watch the gauge the whole time you're driving ha ha)
@@maineboatguy Well ill give it a try. Nothing to loose. Im thinking its a bad or falty ign switch as it has run sometimes not others. And there is no 12v going to choke now when switch is on. This the 4.3 btw. I'll let you know what happens thanks for replying.
@@Rampage00769 did you tried it? What happened?
does electric choke need to be grounded?
Yes there should be a ground wire coming from the engine harness. If not you can just make a jumper from a good ground to one of the choke mounting screws.
I just rebuilt my mercarb and set it all up, I had to set the choke setting very lean.
Matt Gordon I ended up having to reset this one to lean as well. After letting it sit overnight it stayed choked too long during the next startup! They can be a pain to get perfect 👌
@@maineboatguy I think that's the exact problem I'm having. Just the first 10 seconds of startup is really rich. I set the choke so it's slightly open. I'll let you know how it goes. Check out the video I did of tuning it
@@maineboatguy just uploading the cold start now, like I said I set the choke really lean and it seems to have done the trick
I'm