For anyone who doesn't know, NEVER put oil on the block before the crank bearings. Surface MUST be clean and dry, to avoid spinning the bearings. Lubricate the bearings after installed, before attaching connecting rods.
I'm staring at my rusty engine and your vid is pushing me to haul it out and rebuild. Excellent work BTW.Such a lovely sound when she cranked over, congrats! and Thanks
Beyond impressive considering the enormous complexity of such a job and the video editing, the amount of time and expertise that it takes to put all of this together, I don’t know how you do it. I would rather almost buy a brand new boat then to try anything like this. I will stick with just changing my water pump empeller.
I appreciate your recognition of that. It's funny because I thought the project should only take me a month or two at the beginning. But if ended up taking almost 6 months! The video editing probably ended up taking more time than the boat itself later on in the project
This engine is probably the best engine to rebuild for for first time DIY projects. Like Zack said before in the video, the most important thing of all in this build is to get the two dots aligned on the crank and cam gears. If you mess that up you would have to take the timing cover off, then pull rockers off and then the cam gear to rotate the crank to get it aligned. Other than that, I believe anyone can do it as long as they have the torque specs along with the torque sequence on head bolts, crank caps and rod caps
That clear tube to the carburetor is a safety feature.. If the diaphram in the mechanical fuel pump ever ruptures, it will flow up the hose and flood the carburetor and stall the engine... Cars don't have them because it wasn't a big deal to dump fuel on the road, but if you dump fuel into the bilge, boat go boom lol.. Its supposed to be tygon tubing since is fuel resistant... I ended up buying some off ebay cuz I couldn't find tygon tubing locally in a big enough size...
Is the engine still running? I also have a few drops of oil between the block and bearing cup, now I'm unsure because I've seen the video and the comments
Hey Sachs please make a video on how do you start the motor before installing in the boat , How do you wired an make it run very good job young man 👍👍👍👍👀
Hi there Zachs, quick question hope you see this. I took same motor out the boat in good running condition, just wanted to go over everything, replace some gaskets, check every wire, basically to have it ready before summer etc.. I want to bench start the engine just like you did, to make sure there no leaks before putting it back on the boat. I have no spark at all, I bypass the 50amp circuit breaker, also bypass the 50amp starter fuse and nothing. Starter is working, can turn engine over fine, just no spark at all. I triple check timing, ignition, coil, starter solenoid and nothing. I believe the problem is that the wire going to the ignition module has no power, that wire supply power to the module and from there to the coil, then spak plugs etc.. I feel like there a wire or connection missing somewhere. My question is, besides the basic, is there any specific wire or connection that must be made, for example there a neutral safety switch, did you connected that for bench start? Anything will be helpful, thanks in advance.
So many things wrong with this video, please read on how to properly assemble an engine along with this video. Do not reuse old bearings, they are inexpensive and should be replaced for any rebuild (I see below you comment that the bearing were not worn or scratched, please look at 1:19-1:21 mark, you can clearly see the wear on the bearings) DO NOT EVER use a filter wrench to put on an oil filter, that is only going to cause you headaches when you go to remove it. Last but certainly not least, DO NOT use a hammer and block of wood to put on the harmonic balancer. Congrats on the rebuild, you were very close to to doing it correctly but to be 100% honest you made some very big mistakes that will likely come back to bite you.
First of all, I just want to say thank you for taking the time to watch the video and really get into the details. I think you give some very good suggestions and I hope anyone else learning how to do this reads your comment. Regarding the oil filter wrench, I know your concern is that I installed the filter too tight, which makes it is more difficult to loosen down the road. I 100% agree with you. I almost laughed because my gloves were slippery from applying oil to the filter itself, so I really didn't have much grip to tighten it by hand. I used the filter wrench to get it a bit tighter, but not as tight as possible, being mindful of your concern. I am curious how would you suggest me and anyone else attempting this to press on the harmonic balancer with tools at home? And also the reasoning behind why using a hammer/wood would be bad? I am open to suggestions :)
@@ZachsGarage1 Glad you asked, the tool to install the balancer can usually be rented from auto parts stores but it is like the link listed below. The damage that could be done by doing it incorrectly include damage to bearings, crank shaft, or even the balancer itself. Rule of thumb on oil filter is wrenches should only be used for removal, never for installation. Keep up the good work, nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself!!! Part: www.amazon.com/ProForm-66515-Harmonic-Balancer-Installation/dp/B000A8OGMU How to: ruclips.net/video/9UrNWH_e4N0/видео.html
Where does the water mix with the exhaust at on this engine? I am getting water in my oil and have already replaced the head gasket. I'm trying to figure out where else water would be coming from.
@@ZachsGarage1 I still understand where that water is coming from though. There are only 8 holes in the exhaust/intake manifold, two for each cylinder and then the hole where the exhaust riser attaches. Where does the water get into the manifold?
Great video, only thing I wish you had done was the spec's for the tightening of the bolts and clearance. It would added another 5 minutes and it would made the video complete without buying or searching. Great Job. Ps I would have brought new bearings if you want that far on the overhaul. Between the re boring and new piston and rings what was the cost and the overall cost on your rebuilt?
Congratulations! What a fantastic job, and excellent video. Would love to see more on the timing issue if you have it in you to post on it. BTW what has been your approximate cost on the engine rebuild so far? Thanks for posting!!
Thanks! I'll try to make another video on the timing. You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing But it came down to Parts Replaced: $583.50 Engine Work: $305.00 Tools for engine: $416.00 Grand Total: $1,304.50 The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
Well done buddy to see it through to the end. I have the same Motor 1975!. However, i hope it will Not be a regretfull decision for you when you chose Not to fit New Main & Con-rod bearings to this engine. (not expensive) One of the crankshaft bearing shells also sets the Crankshaft end-float limit, which has a direct effect on the timing gears & oil seals wear. I hope things will be ok in the longrun. Cheers from the UK.
I tried to run the engine with the fuel pump line open, so gas should have been sucked in from the tank and spat out the other open side. Nothing came out so I knew mine was bad. Ordered a new one and did the same test as a sanity check, and it came flowing out like Niagara falls!
You didn't show this, but did you check the ring end gaps on both piston rings prior to installing the pistons. Very important after a rebore. Did you check the bearing clearances with plasti-guage? I'd rather have the machine shop assemble the short block, saves a ton of tome and errors. not much money and well spent. I'd also have them do the valve job on the heads
@@ZachsGarage1 thanks for the reply I’m having issues starting a friend of mine trying to figure out if it’s ignition issue or pump seems like a pump cuz I spray starting fluid in it and starts up fine no issue. Gotta check the gas boat has been sitting for couple years.
Hello, and thank you for the video which is very informative. Happy New Year's for all of you . I live in Tunisia (north of Africa - Mediterranean Sea), I have just bought a 5.5 m boat with a 3 liter OMC petrol engine, I read everywhere that the OMC company has been bankrupt since 2000 and its engines are in poor condition from the inside and their spare parts are rare and expensive. the engine that I bought works well (on land, the boat is not in the sea yet), but I do not know its condition inside, in addition its spare parts are almost impossible to find in Europe and I would be obliged to order from USA if needed. I found an identical engine that I could buy for parts if needed. Do you advise me to change to another engine from a different manufacturer (Volvo for example), to change to an outboard? or to continue with this OMC and repair if necessary, which is dear to me. Thanks in advance.
I'd have to go back and check if I documented it somewhere, but I believe it was around 150psi, I think 2 were a little lower around 140psi and other 2 were higher around 160psi
You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing But it came down to Parts Replaced: $583.50 Engine Work: $305.00 Tools for engine: $416.00 Grand Total: $1,304.50 The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
@@yamaharider0731 Take it one step at a time, be prepared to have a lot of patience. Hearing the engine run for the first time is the most satisfying part, it'l make it all worth it
I notice the part list you added doesn't have evrything you used to rebuild the engine. Im looking for the distributor part number. If you could may i have it?
Yeah see i bought that one but when i went to install it i couldn't find the Electrical wires that plug into it so i thought it needed a point distributor. This helps alot. I really appreciate you helping me
Hi Zach, I have the same motor and it’s already pulled out of the boat, I don’t even know if there is anything wrong with it or if it’s good and running how would you start to diagnose and see if everything is good with the engine or it’s seized or whatever!? Thanks in advance
First thing I'd do is pull the spark plugs out and see if you can turn it over by hand, if that's all good. Check oil, and change if needed, put spark plugs in and see if it'll run
Zach I have a 2000 bayliner capri 1950 and I've had all the bellows replaced and still taking on water but only when in the water, not when its on the trailer and running the water through the muffs. The bildge stays dry until put in the water. Any suggestions on what else would cause it to leak?
Could be the seal around the transom assembly, putting a bead of 3M 4000( or 4200 or 5200) around the entire outside edge of the transom assembly could fix it, if that is the case. Right when you put it in the water have the engine bay open and try to see where the water is dripping in from
@@ZachsGarage1 I strongly recommend NOT using 3M 5200. It's too strong. If you ever for any reason want to take those parts apart again you'll need to break something. 3M I believe makes the same observation and recommendation. 4200 or Sikaflex 291 are much better for that job.
once you have the engine out there really isn't any special tools needed. I've made a list of steps here for how to hook it up and what you might need bit.ly/3ioavtQ
Did you just use those small housing bolts to hold that thing on the stand? I want to put mine on the stand but im afraid those bolts are going to snap lol
@@joshentheosparks7492 something even as small as a film of oil underneath a bearing causes changes in the clearances between the bearing and journal. Electrolysis and oxidation are not issues that will arise with in the service life of this engine. How ever a spun bearing cause by improper oil clearances and the fact that there is now a LUBRICANT underneath the bearing is.
It’s so amazing that it started up right away. How did you connect all the wires to start the engine. Is there any diagram, if you can I please have a link for it
Thanks! for the wiring, I jumped pins 5 and 6 together, then connected battery (-) to an engine stud, and battery (+) to the starter. the pins are numbered on the wiring harness.
Not to down your video you did a great job on it but... you said you put links to all the parts you fixed or replaced. You only pur 4 links there are several more you did not add. Can you please fix this.
I don't remember the exacts, but wait a few hours of running before wide open throttle use, and also to replace the oil after not too long. I was just using the mecruiser manual that came with the boat
Zach loved this! I have an old boat I just bought with the exact same engine . Thank you so much for your video. Question do I need a specific fuel line for the mercruzer 3.0 and where can I get one my looks very brittle and beat up.
Hope you get yours working too! :) for the wiring, I jumped pins 5 and 6 together, then connected battery (-) to an engine stud, and battery (+) to the starter. Then battery (+) to an ignition(or on/off) switch to pin 7 Mine is a 10 pin harness. And then to make the engine stop running I'd pull the jumper out of pin 5/6. I got my info from this post I found www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/345278-how-jump-mercruiser-connector.html Hope that helps!
Just bought a project boat with a Mercruiser 140 inboard engine on it. It had an 11 pin starter and we tested the starter and it works. We are wondering if that motor actually requires a 9 pin starter. I am wondering if we need to buy a new starter, or if you think either should work on that engine. What was wrong with your starter before and what model starter did you replace it with? Thanks, great video!
Never crank an oil filter on with a filter wrench. You just hand tighten until its snug and then go about another 1/8th of a turn. If you crank the filter on, the rubber gasket can twist and leak plus its hell to get it off when its time to replace it down the road. Just a humble suggestion. Also when you tighten the distributor down just snug it up. I don't know how you didn't twist the bolt off. Once again just a friendly suggestion unless you enjoy extracting broken bolts.
Probably the funniest vid you've made yet LOL. No disrespect at all. Keep um coming! I agree with Sam below but also agree that we all learn somehow and paying someone else is not learning. At Least Sam was not being an ass about his suggestions like so many would. But otherwise, Great job! I'm Wondering if you rebuilt or purchased a new Carb. and I will most likely just buy a new one from the stories I been told. Mine, I just bought is a 00' Capri Almost identical to yours. Interior is mint but middle of floor is rotten so I'll be doing most of the floor work you have done unless i find rot back towards motor.
I rebuilt the original carb. The only complaint I have is the automatic choke sucks in my opinion, so after the first startup the coke is just open. So starting after you've been running requires some throttle. Other than that it's fine, idling decent, and accelerates great for a 4-cylinder
You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing But it came down to Parts Replaced: $583.50 Engine Work: $305.00 Tools for engine: $416.00 Grand Total: $1,304.50 The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
Sure! Here is The Cost Breakdown: Parts Replaced: $583.50 Engine Work: $305.00 Tools for engine: $416.00 Grand Total: $1,304.50 and here's a link to a spreadsheet of the parts I bought: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
I did not. A lot of other people have recommended to replace them though. I thought mine were in good condition so I re-used the old ones. Put about 10 hours on the engine so far, no issues yet
For anyone who doesn't know, NEVER put oil on the block before the crank bearings.
Surface MUST be clean and dry, to avoid spinning the bearings.
Lubricate the bearings after installed, before attaching connecting rods.
This was a great video. I'm ding my engine right now and have watched this about 10 times. Well done!
Thanks!
I love your patient and calm comments and instructions. you have a new subscriber. Cheers!
Thanks! I appreciate that!
I have a 3.0 that I need to get rebuilt from the bottom up
Awesome work! Looks good, I believe these are the most simple engines to rebuild! You did an outstanding job!
Thanks, Jeremy!
Thanks for the list of products, Zach!
Can we get that distributor issue video though?? Really curious to see what that issue was about
Edit: Nvm :) I see it now
I'm staring at my rusty engine and your vid is pushing me to haul it out and rebuild. Excellent work BTW.Such a lovely sound when she cranked over, congrats! and Thanks
You have no idea How long I had been looking for some input on someone else having done this project!
Great Job and new Subscriber here! 👍
I'm nit picking some things, but your doing a great job restoring that boat.
So cool to see that motor fire up!!!
Wow bro put that oil filter on super tight
Beyond impressive considering the enormous complexity of such a job and the video editing, the amount of time and expertise that it takes to put all of this together, I don’t know how you do it. I would rather almost buy a brand new boat then to try anything like this. I will stick with just changing my water pump empeller.
I appreciate your recognition of that. It's funny because I thought the project should only take me a month or two at the beginning. But if ended up taking almost 6 months! The video editing probably ended up taking more time than the boat itself later on in the project
This engine is probably the best engine to rebuild for for first time DIY projects. Like Zack said before in the video, the most important thing of all in this build is to get the two dots aligned on the crank and cam gears. If you mess that up you would have to take the timing cover off, then pull rockers off and then the cam gear to rotate the crank to get it aligned. Other than that, I believe anyone can do it as long as they have the torque specs along with the torque sequence on head bolts, crank caps and rod caps
Great good job .. proud of your skills and talent
Thanks!
That clear tube to the carburetor is a safety feature.. If the diaphram in the mechanical fuel pump ever ruptures, it will flow up the hose and flood the carburetor and stall the engine... Cars don't have them because it wasn't a big deal to dump fuel on the road, but if you dump fuel into the bilge, boat go boom lol.. Its supposed to be tygon tubing since is fuel resistant... I ended up buying some off ebay cuz I couldn't find tygon tubing locally in a big enough size...
Good info! I had wondered about that
Did the oil pan gasket came included in the gasket kit ?
I was looking for a link for the kit that you used
Is the engine still running? I also have a few drops of oil between the block and bearing cup, now I'm unsure because I've seen the video and the comments
Lot of know it alls in this comment section, leave the guy alone, atleast he’s out in the shed doing something.
Lol! Thank you!
hello explain to me how to tighten the valves? I don't understand what strength I have to put into it
I learned a lot from this video. Thanks
What is the part number on that Sierra belt for the alternator? What about the one for the power steering?
I provide the link to it in my spreadsheet here bit.ly/2TQZHdi
@@ZachsGarage1 Right on. Thank you. 👍🏼🇨🇦
What wire do you hook up to positive to run outside of the boat
Why you didn't change the crankshaft bearing
Did you make the timing info video? I'm interested....
Yes, Sir! ruclips.net/video/C6QO-Bn-Q9s/видео.html
Please make an in depth timing procedure for this engine. Also how to set it to base timing. Been trying to find this everywhere. Great video thanks
Absolutely! It shall be done!
@@ZachsGarage1 Awesome thanks
Hey Sachs please make a video on how do you start the motor before installing in the boat , How do you wired an make it run very good job young man 👍👍👍👍👀
Will do! Thanks!
Thank you to shoot this, very helpful and encouraging.
Hi there Zachs, quick question hope you see this. I took same motor out the boat in good running condition, just wanted to go over everything, replace some gaskets, check every wire, basically to have it ready before summer etc.. I want to bench start the engine just like you did, to make sure there no leaks before putting it back on the boat. I have no spark at all, I bypass the 50amp circuit breaker, also bypass the 50amp starter fuse and nothing. Starter is working, can turn engine over fine, just no spark at all. I triple check timing, ignition, coil, starter solenoid and nothing. I believe the problem is that the wire going to the ignition module has no power, that wire supply power to the module and from there to the coil, then spak plugs etc.. I feel like there a wire or connection missing somewhere. My question is, besides the basic, is there any specific wire or connection that must be made, for example there a neutral safety switch, did you connected that for bench start? Anything will be helpful, thanks in advance.
Great job bud
Love your work. This is really going to help me when I rebuild my 3.0
Where did you get your lifters from
So many things wrong with this video, please read on how to properly assemble an engine along with this video. Do not reuse old bearings, they are inexpensive and should be replaced for any rebuild (I see below you comment that the bearing were not worn or scratched, please look at 1:19-1:21 mark, you can clearly see the wear on the bearings) DO NOT EVER use a filter wrench to put on an oil filter, that is only going to cause you headaches when you go to remove it. Last but certainly not least, DO NOT use a hammer and block of wood to put on the harmonic balancer. Congrats on the rebuild, you were very close to to doing it correctly but to be 100% honest you made some very big mistakes that will likely come back to bite you.
First of all, I just want to say thank you for taking the time to watch the video and really get into the details. I think you give some very good suggestions and I hope anyone else learning how to do this reads your comment.
Regarding the oil filter wrench, I know your concern is that I installed the filter too tight, which makes it is more difficult to loosen down the road. I 100% agree with you. I almost laughed because my gloves were slippery from applying oil to the filter itself, so I really didn't have much grip to tighten it by hand. I used the filter wrench to get it a bit tighter, but not as tight as possible, being mindful of your concern.
I am curious how would you suggest me and anyone else attempting this to press on the harmonic balancer with tools at home? And also the reasoning behind why using a hammer/wood would be bad? I am open to suggestions :)
@@ZachsGarage1 Glad you asked, the tool to install the balancer can usually be rented from auto parts stores but it is like the link listed below. The damage that could be done by doing it incorrectly include damage to bearings, crank shaft, or even the balancer itself. Rule of thumb on oil filter is wrenches should only be used for removal, never for installation. Keep up the good work, nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself!!!
Part:
www.amazon.com/ProForm-66515-Harmonic-Balancer-Installation/dp/B000A8OGMU
How to:
ruclips.net/video/9UrNWH_e4N0/видео.html
Also you’re never supposed to put any kind of oil under the main bearings, they go in dry and you oil around the crank
@@ethan4108 true, I went overboard pre-lubing lol
@Egil Johansen I know that now 🤠
I was wondering if you have the wiring diagram
Sounded good how much does it cost to repair
Where does the water mix with the exhaust at on this engine? I am getting water in my oil and have already replaced the head gasket. I'm trying to figure out where else water would be coming from.
The gasket for the exhaust riser
@@ZachsGarage1 I still understand where that water is coming from though. There are only 8 holes in the exhaust/intake manifold, two for each cylinder and then the hole where the exhaust riser attaches. Where does the water get into the manifold?
@@sevyn13 water hose
@@ZachsGarage1 hmm, mine doesn’t have a water hose going to the manifold.
Great video, only thing I wish you had done was the spec's for the tightening of the bolts and clearance. It would added another 5 minutes and it would made the video complete without buying or searching. Great Job. Ps I would have brought new bearings if you want that far on the overhaul. Between the re boring and new piston and rings what was the cost and the overall cost on your rebuilt?
Is there any video of you putting the engine back in ??
I do not, although it might be useful if I made one! I had to watch my engine removal video again to remember which wires go where, et
Heu bud i have a mericruiser engine is a 3.0 4 cylinder 120 HP is that the same motor u are rebuilding ???
You don't have or could you make a video of how you adjusted your valves
Congratulations! What a fantastic job, and excellent video. Would love to see more on the timing issue if you have it in you to post on it. BTW what has been your approximate cost on the engine rebuild so far? Thanks for posting!!
Thanks! I'll try to make another video on the timing.
You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
But it came down to
Parts Replaced: $583.50
Engine Work: $305.00
Tools for engine: $416.00
Grand Total: $1,304.50
The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
How did you get it to fire without the key? I can’t get my mercruiser ignition to work.
Check out this video explaining how to run it out of the boat ruclips.net/video/g7HYvDdBXHY/видео.html
Thanks. Awesome video!
Well done buddy to see it through to the end. I have the same Motor 1975!. However, i hope it will Not be a regretfull decision for you when you chose Not to fit New Main & Con-rod bearings to this engine. (not expensive) One of the crankshaft bearing shells also sets the Crankshaft end-float limit, which has a direct effect on the timing gears & oil seals wear. I hope things will be ok in the longrun. Cheers from the UK.
Why did you skip the carburetor install? Did you get a new one or rebuild the old one?
FYI, NEVER OIL THE BLOCK SIDE OF MAIN BEARINGS!
It will spin main bearings and mean a rebuild!
Did you tear it down and rebuild because of the seize? I might have missed a vid and don't know of you were ever able to free it up and turn it.
Did you file the piston rings within spec to each cylinder 👀
Nope, just order the right size
What was the make model and year of the motor
Mercruiser 3.0 1998
How did you test the fuel pump?
I tried to run the engine with the fuel pump line open, so gas should have been sucked in from the tank and spat out the other open side. Nothing came out so I knew mine was bad. Ordered a new one and did the same test as a sanity check, and it came flowing out like Niagara falls!
You didn't show this, but did you check the ring end gaps on both piston rings prior to installing the pistons. Very important after a rebore.
Did you check the bearing clearances with plasti-guage?
I'd rather have the machine shop assemble the short block, saves a ton of tome and errors. not much money and well spent. I'd also have them do the valve job on the heads
What are the torque spec for the fly wheels bolts?
65 ft lbs. I found torque specs listed here: www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/mercruiser-30l-mechanical-specifications
@@ZachsGarage1 thanks for the reply I’m having issues starting a friend of mine trying to figure out if it’s ignition issue or pump seems like a pump cuz I spray starting fluid in it and starts up fine no issue. Gotta check the gas boat has been sitting for couple years.
@@andrew7202 I would suspect the fuel pump too. That bad on mine
Zach, what is the paint you used on the hull and floor
White Gel coat without wax from sherfab.com
When u out that motor back together did you use a 1 piece oil pan gasket?
Yes, I did
Great video
Hello, and thank you for the video which is very informative. Happy New Year's for all of you . I live in Tunisia (north of Africa - Mediterranean Sea), I have just bought a 5.5 m boat with a 3 liter OMC petrol engine, I read everywhere that the OMC company has been bankrupt since 2000 and its engines are in poor condition from the inside and their spare parts are rare and expensive. the engine that I bought works well (on land, the boat is not in the sea yet), but I do not know its condition inside, in addition its spare parts are almost impossible to find in Europe and I would be obliged to order from USA if needed. I found an identical engine that I could buy for parts if needed. Do you advise me to change to another engine from a different manufacturer (Volvo for example), to change to an outboard? or to continue with this OMC and repair if necessary, which is dear to me. Thanks in advance.
U reused bearings??????
Nice bro..good job.
Please say you also had the crank turned
had it turned when?
Very good rebuilding job. At what compression pressure is the engine now?
I'd have to go back and check if I documented it somewhere, but I believe it was around 150psi, I think 2 were a little lower around 140psi and other 2 were higher around 160psi
How much did it cost for the machine shop and parts about?
You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
But it came down to
Parts Replaced: $583.50
Engine Work: $305.00
Tools for engine: $416.00
Grand Total: $1,304.50
The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
Thanks I'm about to do the same to my 3.0 L any tips
@@yamaharider0731 Take it one step at a time, be prepared to have a lot of patience. Hearing the engine run for the first time is the most satisfying part, it'l make it all worth it
What was the over all cost of this project
I just bought a boat with a 1984 3.0 / 140 & its running bit rough - how do I adjust the idle speed a bit? Any good help would be awesome please.
There should be a screw to adjust is where the Throttle cable meets the carburetor
Rebuild the carburetor.. it’s not hard. 36 year old carb. Yes rebuild. The kit cost $25-$30. Better then getting stranded
I notice the part list you added doesn't have evrything you used to rebuild the engine. Im looking for the distributor part number. If you could may i have it?
I'm using the original distributor
It looks like this is the distributor model for the Mercruiser 3.0
www.amazon.com/Distributor-Assembly-Ignition-MerCruiser/dp/B082MPDMB4/
@@ZachsGarage1 ty for replying. I cant seem to find a replacement for my motor. The one it had was stolen so says the previous owner.
Yeah see i bought that one but when i went to install it i couldn't find the Electrical wires that plug into it so i thought it needed a point distributor. This helps alot. I really appreciate you helping me
@@eloyperez1270 so the distributor fits but you need the wires?
What year was the motor? What was the torque specs for the head, rocker arms, etc......
1998 on the year
Hi Zach, I have the same motor and it’s already pulled out of the boat, I don’t even know if there is anything wrong with it or if it’s good and running how would you start to diagnose and see if everything is good with the engine or it’s seized or whatever!?
Thanks in advance
First thing I'd do is pull the spark plugs out and see if you can turn it over by hand, if that's all good. Check oil, and change if needed, put spark plugs in and see if it'll run
Zach I have a 2000 bayliner capri 1950 and I've had all the bellows replaced and still taking on water but only when in the water, not when its on the trailer and running the water through the muffs. The bildge stays dry until put in the water. Any suggestions on what else would cause it to leak?
Could be the seal around the transom assembly, putting a bead of 3M 4000( or 4200 or 5200) around the entire outside edge of the transom assembly could fix it, if that is the case.
Right when you put it in the water have the engine bay open and try to see where the water is dripping in from
@@ZachsGarage1 I strongly recommend NOT using 3M 5200. It's too strong. If you ever for any reason want to take those parts apart again you'll need to break something. 3M I believe makes the same observation and recommendation. 4200 or Sikaflex 291 are much better for that job.
Would you happen to remember what the torque specs were for the connecting rods and head bolts?
Sorry for the delayed response, 90 lb / ft on the head bolts. Don't remember for the connecting rods
I’ve never heard of reusing the old bearings. Is it still running good??
It sure is!
I'm currently working on my mercruiser, Im Pulling the engine out what tools do I need to run the engine, once I pull it out.thanks in advance.
once you have the engine out there really isn't any special tools needed.
I've made a list of steps here for how to hook it up and what you might need
bit.ly/3ioavtQ
Nice job!!!!
Thanks!
How did you clean the intake / exhaust manifold?
Just did the best I could with a small wire brush going inside the ports, if you have a big enough tub you could do a cat bath to clean it completely
Congratulations
Did you just use those small housing bolts to hold that thing on the stand? I want to put mine on the stand but im afraid those bolts are going to snap lol
no, I used the super mega ultimate grade A hardened steel bolts
I believe they should be 3/8"-16 3" or 4" long or so
@@ZachsGarage1 Thanks man! keep on with the vids! I'm ready to see the cushions going on the back seats.
I have a 1985 StarCraft boat will thoughs part fit my engine it is mercruiser 3.0 4 cylinder
Under no circumstances do you ever put anything underneath a bearing not even oil.
Kinda what I was thinking
The hydraulic oil is to stop iron oxidation and electrolysis between the metals.
@@joshentheosparks7492 something even as small as a film of oil underneath a bearing causes changes in the clearances between the bearing and journal. Electrolysis and oxidation are not issues that will arise with in the service life of this engine. How ever a spun bearing cause by improper oil clearances and the fact that there is now a LUBRICANT underneath the bearing is.
did you use the factory carb? Sweet project bro, engine sounds nice!
Yeah, I did
When I used to work at their manufacturing plant they installed the cam before the Crank lol
I need block 4.3 v6 mercruiser 1997,
Hey! Its quite a lot of white smoke! Are you sure that you dont burn water somewhere?
I think the float was getting stuck drowning in fuel
Did you have to have the crankshaft journal’s machined
I did not, thankfully they were in very good condition
It’s so amazing that it started up right away. How did you connect all the wires to start the engine. Is there any diagram, if you can I please have a link for it
Thanks! for the wiring, I jumped pins 5 and 6 together,
then connected battery (-) to an engine stud, and battery (+) to the starter. the pins are numbered on the wiring harness.
Zachs Garage you helped me with the straight wiring on mine great job man!
Not to down your video you did a great job on it but... you said you put links to all the parts you fixed or replaced. You only pur 4 links there are several more you did not add. Can you please fix this.
If you go to the Google spreadsheet in the video be description it has everything
You reused the old bearings? If you have zero money to finish I can understand though.
Yeah, they weren't scratched up or anything so I reused them
What was the break in procedure for the motor once rebuilt? Did the manual state it? Also what manual did you use?
I don't remember the exacts, but wait a few hours of running before wide open throttle use, and also to replace the oil after not too long. I was just using the mecruiser manual that came with the boat
Zach loved this! I have an old boat I just bought with the exact same engine . Thank you so much for your video. Question do I need a specific fuel line for the mercruzer 3.0 and where can I get one my looks very brittle and beat up.
regular fuel line should be fine! I've even used vinyl fish tank tubing on my jetski 😂
did you have any issues with your crank ? mine seems to be tight :/ and when i put top caps on the main bearings crank dont move :(
It did get harder to turn after tightening the caps on, but was still able to
Where your oil clearances tight. What was the measurements?
Never install oil under bearing it will lock your engine down. Always use assembly lube on top of bearings.
I’m about to do the same thing , you video will help me
Congratulations!! which wires you connect to start engine? Hope in next three weeks i hear similar (working) sound from my Merc 3.0 :)
Hope you get yours working too! :)
for the wiring, I jumped pins 5 and 6 together,
then connected battery (-) to an engine stud, and battery (+) to the starter.
Then battery (+) to an ignition(or on/off) switch to pin 7
Mine is a 10 pin harness.
And then to make the engine stop running I'd pull the jumper out of pin 5/6.
I got my info from this post I found
www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/345278-how-jump-mercruiser-connector.html
Hope that helps!
@@ZachsGarage1 yesss it's work!
Did you do the valve grinding yourself or have the head re-done by a machine shop?
I did it myself but honestly I probably didn't do a good job 😝
Thats the funniest thing i`ve seen in ages :-)
Where did you get your parts from?
here's a link to a spreadsheet of the parts I bought:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
Just bought a project boat with a Mercruiser 140 inboard engine on it. It had an 11 pin starter and we tested the starter and it works. We are wondering if that motor actually requires a 9 pin starter. I am wondering if we need to buy a new starter, or if you think either should work on that engine. What was wrong with your starter before and what model starter did you replace it with? Thanks, great video!
My starter would click to engage, but would not spin
Here is a link the the new starter I bought
www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y3O44S/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Y15OEbFTBAH52
Never crank an oil filter on with a filter wrench. You just hand tighten until its snug and then go about another 1/8th of a turn. If you crank the filter on, the rubber gasket can twist and leak plus its hell to get it off when its time to replace it down the road. Just a humble suggestion.
Also when you tighten the distributor down just snug it up. I don't know how you didn't twist the bolt off. Once again just a friendly suggestion unless you enjoy extracting broken bolts.
Thanks for the helpful info and subscribing, Tony!
Flywheel bearing?? Its a rear main seal
Probably the funniest vid you've made yet LOL. No disrespect at all. Keep um coming! I agree with Sam below but also agree that we all learn somehow and paying someone else is not learning. At Least Sam was not being an ass about his suggestions like so many would. But otherwise, Great job! I'm Wondering if you rebuilt or purchased a new Carb. and I will most likely just buy a new one from the stories I been told. Mine, I just bought is a 00' Capri Almost identical to yours. Interior is mint but middle of floor is rotten so I'll be doing most of the floor work you have done unless i find rot back towards motor.
I rebuilt the original carb. The only complaint I have is the automatic choke sucks in my opinion, so after the first startup the coke is just open. So starting after you've been running requires some throttle. Other than that it's fine, idling decent, and accelerates great for a 4-cylinder
Man i was hoping to see a slightly in depth way how to set the valve lash
How much you spend on the rebuild?
You can view the cost break down (and links to parts) here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
But it came down to
Parts Replaced: $583.50
Engine Work: $305.00
Tools for engine: $416.00
Grand Total: $1,304.50
The engine work was getting the cylinders over-bored by a machine shop
Could you tell me what it cost to rebuild it yourself ? $ ?
Sure! Here is The Cost Breakdown:
Parts Replaced: $583.50
Engine Work: $305.00
Tools for engine: $416.00
Grand Total: $1,304.50
and here's a link to a spreadsheet of the parts I bought:
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/151qjGcmrvE5JpPQ8q5yXeylS3ly_TJpWVcAeYYnLgY0/edit?usp=sharing
Hi Zach, did you replaced the crankshaft bearings for new once? or wasn't that necessary? Great job bud, greetz from Netherlands
I did not. A lot of other people have recommended to replace them though. I thought mine were in good condition so I re-used the old ones. Put about 10 hours on the engine so far, no issues yet
Where are you located? And can you put my engine together here in Vegas? I have a mercruiser 470.
I'm down in the heart of Texas. I could, but I am pinched for time lately, gotta big project about to come out on the channel ;)
Good job ....