By FAR...the best install video on the tube. We have a new small travel trailer that needed an extra utility drawer for knives, forks, spoons, etc. I was stumped as to how to neatly measure and install the slides. Rather handy myself, this made the entire process "sweatless." In spite of the small space in which I had to work, the result was a perfect installation and a HAPPY WIFE! Happy life, you know. Bravo from very grateful individual..
Great instructions and tips. I really appreciated the tip about installing the rear brackets onto the rear cleat first and then installing the cleat to the rear cabinet wall. This is so much easier than installing the brackets one at a time inside the cabinet box. Thanks for a great video👍🏼👌😃
I used the KV8400 Mounting Bracket Set to provide easy module installation front and back. I failed to notice the front bracket has a slight offset behind the mounting tabs to correct the width... I ended up with the offsets right on the edge of the frame and way too tight clearance. Adjusting the front brackets a smidge rearward made it work like magic.
On the video you don't show where you put the slides on the cabinet drawer itself. Does it matter if you put it flush on the bottom or the middle? Also do you recommend face frame mounting brackets to use as well?
When you are putting the cleat on the back of the cabinet what type of screw do you recommend and also does it have to go into a stud. What do you recommend if there is no stud. Thanks so much!
I'm not clear how to select slide length. If I measure the cabinet depth from face frame to back wall and it's just above 24" does it mean I should use 24" slides? Isn't that backing piece of wood and mounting brackets takes some space and would make slides sticking out? Thanks
You could use a 24" slide. If your drawer box is shorter than 24". you will have the drawer member protruding beyond the drawer box. Typically, that's not a problem. However, if the distance from the front edge of the drawer opening is just over 24", you need to allow for the thickness of the material the rear brackets are attached to. Hope this helps.
First let me say thank you for making this video. Very informative & answered all my questions. Couldn’t one just cut filler pieces to make the sides flush with the face frame, then attach the slides directly to the side walls instead of using the cleat & brackets?
"Some people set the bracket up so it's just on the line - that's not right. You want to have it so the bracket is right ON the line." Now there are some clear directions - nothing confusing about that. WTF. And that's exactly where you fuck up if you do it wrong, with the drawer getting pinched between the brackets if it's not done exactly right. No help from this video. Thanks a lot.
By FAR...the best install video on the tube. We have a new small travel trailer that needed an extra utility drawer for knives, forks, spoons, etc. I was stumped as to how to neatly measure and install the slides. Rather handy myself, this made the entire process "sweatless." In spite of the small space in which I had to work, the result was a perfect installation and a HAPPY WIFE! Happy life, you know. Bravo from very grateful individual..
Great instructions and tips. I really appreciated the tip about installing the rear brackets onto the rear cleat first and then installing the cleat to the rear cabinet wall. This is so much easier than installing the brackets one at a time inside the cabinet box. Thanks for a great video👍🏼👌😃
That is a genius way to ensure a perfect install. Thank you for sharing.
I used the KV8400 Mounting Bracket Set to provide easy module installation front and back. I failed to notice the front bracket has a slight offset behind the mounting tabs to correct the width... I ended up with the offsets right on the edge of the frame and way too tight clearance. Adjusting the front brackets a smidge rearward made it work like magic.
On the video you don't show where you put the slides on the cabinet drawer itself. Does it matter if you put it flush on the bottom or the middle? Also do you recommend face frame mounting brackets to use as well?
When you are putting the cleat on the back of the cabinet what type of screw do you recommend and also does it have to go into a stud. What do you recommend if there is no stud. Thanks so much!
Great video,Tom!
Are they truly full extension ? Does a 22inch guide extend out a full 22inch like the 8400 guide does ?
Yes - there is daylight behind the drawer when fully extended.
I'm not clear how to select slide length. If I measure the cabinet depth from face frame to back wall and it's just above 24" does it mean I should use 24" slides? Isn't that backing piece of wood and mounting brackets takes some space and would make slides sticking out? Thanks
You could use a 24" slide. If your drawer box is shorter than 24". you will have the drawer member protruding beyond the drawer box. Typically, that's not a problem.
However, if the distance from the front edge of the drawer opening is just over 24", you need to allow for the thickness of the material the rear brackets are attached to.
Hope this helps.
First let me say thank you for making this video. Very informative & answered all my questions. Couldn’t one just cut filler pieces to make the sides flush with the face frame, then attach the slides directly to the side walls instead of using the cleat & brackets?
How do you secure the rail to the bracket in the back of the cabinet?
It pushes in from the front or snaps in from the side. Depending on access, I prefer snapping it in.
While this video has some useful bits of information, it totally skips the trickiest part - attaching the slides to the drawer.
"Some people set the bracket up so it's just on the line - that's not right. You want to have it so the bracket is right ON the line."
Now there are some clear directions - nothing confusing about that. WTF.
And that's exactly where you fuck up if you do it wrong, with the drawer getting pinched between the brackets if it's not done exactly right. No help from this video. Thanks a lot.