As someone who is not skilled in repairing stuff, your video was inspirational - saw it yesterday, did it today, the tips and hiccups you documented all helped me do it properly. Thank you and keep up the good job!
Hi, and thank you for the positive feedback. I am glad the video helped you. The more you do the more your confidence will grow and you will be rebuilding the gearbox in a few months! Great job. Joël
You are welcome. Good luck. A tip on my video from another subscriber suggested to leave the cylinder bolts loose on the back plate before you tighten down the brake line. Avoids cross threading the connector. 👍
The seals are not glued in place. There should be a spring in the middle that pushes the seals against the metal ends. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the air). That can cause the wheel & master cylinders to rust so the recommendation is to change the brake fluid every couple of years. I have been told that the water is what turns brake fluid black, but your brake fluid is still clear so I don't know what has caused the corrosion. Graham
Thanks Graham. It’s a hit if a mystery. As you know, the car has been stored dry for all the years even since the restoration. I picked up an original girling part from my old garage this weekend and lugged it (and others) back to Dresden. So will do some comparison soon. The Girling parts are works of art, I can tell you.
Happy New Year all, I changed changed out all master and slave cylinders (brake and clutch) when I did my restoration along with all the linings and clutch plate. A big meccano set indeed, always something to tinker with. Mine's running great now and I use it every weekend and sometimes during the week for errands. I'm really enjoying this beast and it's become quite a conversation piece indeed.
No need for a meter. Do the adjustment with the wheel on and hold the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle to feel play - tighten till play goes and then back off until you feel “about 1mm of wiggle”. Job done. At least that’s how we were taught at VM school.
As one of the other posters has said, you are missing bits in the slave. One spring and two metal cups that sit inside the seals and act as a hard surface for the springs to push against. Good work, great videos!
Hi, thanks for your message. I know what you mean. There are components missing from the cylinder assembly but they are not supplied with the after market models. I wonder if I can modify them. Hmmm…
Leaky brake cylinders seem to be a thing at the moment, I know quite a few owners who are having no end of trouble at the moment, TRW cylinders included. I must admit that I did take a bag of brake cylinder seals with me to France in the summer, just in case.... Regarding the loose drive flanges- don't use anything other than the thin paper gaskets, the thicker Klinger type gaskets that are available tend to result in the bolts chivvying loose, no idea which you have but that has been my experience. By the way, no need for PTFE tape on the brake fittings- if brake lines are leaking the flares aren't doing their job. Enjoy the fruits of your labours, a very tidy Rover!
Thanks Phil. I dug out one of the old Girling wheel cylinders while I was in the UK over the weekend, and it’s clear to see the difference between true quality and low quality. The Girling seem better in virtually every possible way even over the ‘own’ versions of today.
@@My911 Yeah, it's a bit sad really but it's quite true. You can still get NOS seal kits and whilst they are ancient, the seals are actually better than the new replacements. The quality of rubber parts is a big issue at the moment, for example- the new coolant hoses I fitted this year lasted a month..
That’s really shocking. It’s such a mine field buying spare parts. It makes me want to set up a supply outlet for quality parts only. I think people would be happy to pay the right price for a good quality item.
Nice to see you enjoying the car again! When it comes to tuning I think it's important to keep things simple, if it smells rich and the plugs read rich then just lean out the carb a little at a time, dive it compare experience and repeat. Keep it that simple. Only change one thing at a time and in small increments so you can go back to where you were if need be. I have a test circuit that involves a very steep hill that I always use for road tuning. One could very easily dive into the complexities of the finer details of tuning, mechanical and vacuum advance, plug gaps, carb jetting, cam and a whole range of details that matter, but kind of don't as well. The distributor will likely be worn and out of spec, thats effectively a lot of what the ECU does on a modern car, does it matter..... not really. Say you are at 70% of the cars potential, small changes from here and electronic ignition might get you to 90% in a few afternoons. If you want that last 10% it's going to cost money to have the rocker assembly rebuilt by a machine shop, complicated testing of the distributor, possibly re jetting the carb, possibly a head rebuild and you will likely hardly notice the difference. Save the black magic of the last 10% for one of the other high performance cars you mentioned previously. Almost there, don't get lost in details and go backwards. Parts are always a drama with classics, for that you need advice from someone else, I've not done a landrover. But you can have the original wheel cylinders stainless sleeved and put a seal kit in them, I'm always having wheel cylinders fail so for me thats a good option. Someone that knows landrovers may well tell you to buy a particular brand of new because they are known to be good, they should last almost indefinitely if the brake fluid is flushed and replaced every five years or so. The current issue was just crap parts, something that everyone driving classics deals with.
Hi Greg, thanks for the insight. I uncovered the AH Frogeye Sprite when I was over in Kent this weekend. It’s very far gone but saveable I think. Will upload a video soon. That used to be a race car back in the 60’s so more up your street I would think. Such a cool little classic.
@@My911 Cool little car! Those are engines I know much better and are infinitely tuneable. I'm currently building a 1275 A series to go in my daughters Minor and the transverse 1275 version for an Austin 1300 which will be my new daily. You can do so much with them, firstly because the factory did, putting the A series in so many BMC vehicles in different forms of tune and secondly because people have been making them go faster since the day they were new. Hope the rust isn't too bad, I watch people in the UK save cars that here we wouldn't even consider restoring, but then you can order repair sections off the shelf and freight isn't such an issue and thats a huge help. I would suggest that restoring a sprite is likely well over four times the effort of doing the landrover though, so keep that in mind. If you can buy the heritage body panels and repair sections you need (which I'm pretty sure you can), trust me just do it regardless of the expense. One can easily spend an entire year every weekend just welding if you are building the skills as you go. Good content though, no one else on youtube doing one that I know off if thats also an objective.
On the flange bolts, I think you are supposed to put some threadlock on them. You can buy AFR. Air to fuel ratio gauges, if you want. I don't know if they are of any use having never used one. I don't know if you watch Britannica Restorations or not. But he is my expert on Landies. Mostly real time videos. Anyway, happy motoring.
Super Video! Magst du mal ein Video machen (oder hast es vielleicht schon) wie du die Bremse entlüftest? Und wo stellst den den Unterstellbock am besten drunter…? Unter die Bodenplatte von der Sprungfeder? VG
Moin Michael, danke dir. Ja, entlüften ist ohne Spezial Werkzeug nicht leicht, auch wenn Mann alleine ist. Am besten mit zwei Personen. Eine der pumpt und der andere geht rum und entlüftet. Am besten HL, HR, VL und zu letzt VR. Unterstellbock ist genau da am besten platziert. Sei aber vorsichtig wegen der kleine Gewinde der unten rausguckt. VG Joël
Joel, it looked very much like there were spring washers on the cylinder retaining studs. As Kevin says, you don’t need a DTI gauge to adjust wheel bearings on a Land Rover Series vehicle. The seals are not glued onto the pistons. Did you examine the bore of the cylinder? With that pitting on the piston, I would expect the cylinder bore to be pitted too. You can get a cylinder home to re-surface the bore. You need to get good quality stuff when you’re doing brakes, I’d expect the TRW cylinder to be good quality, but there’s a lot of rubbish about. Avoid Britpart for safety critical parts.
As a few others have said red rubber grease will help stop corrosion.. and the original Girling units and the more expensive aftermarket units should have a spring and metal plates behind the rubber seals.. the quality really does vary from part to part even with the better branded parts.. chrome is not what it used to be.. as parts suppliers dissappear (bearmach) quality will suffer even more..
Just a small point I always put red rubber grease behind the black outer dust covers and ensure it lubicates the pistons. This reduces the chance of corrosion on pistons. Also in my experience the quality of the new brake cylinders is very suspect,the lowest bidder etc. Another little tip is to clamp off the flexible brake pipe to prevent the brake fluid leaking all out, I use a vise grip mole wrench and carefully clam pipe. on setting the wheel bearing you don't need a dial gauge, you hand tighten the rear nut up with your socket and ensure their is no play after spinni g the hub by hand then fit lock washer and tighten up second but and I have never had a problem. However the hub seals are very poor quality and can fail after a few weeks and cover the brakes with grease.
Gees, the qualitybof modern parts stinks! I have experienced the above. Having spent the last few days in Kent, I dug out the parts I took off the car in the restoration and see how well built the Girling items are . I mean, light years apart from even the ‘OEM’ stuff from today.
@@My911 Its just that in computing circles using the terms "master" and "slave" for controlling processes is now very much not acceptable, and terms like "client/server" or "primary/secondary" are used, and I wondered what we'd use in cars as alternative words in the brake and clutch systems...
As someone who is not skilled in repairing stuff, your video was inspirational - saw it yesterday, did it today, the tips and hiccups you documented all helped me do it properly. Thank you and keep up the good job!
Hi, and thank you for the positive feedback. I am glad the video helped you. The more you do the more your confidence will grow and you will be rebuilding the gearbox in a few months! Great job. Joël
A Landrover is basically the Meccano set you never had when you were a kid. It's a learning curve with satisfaction at the end of a job.
No complaints here. I think you just summed it up 😀👍
I been following your journey since the very first episodes back in England. I never experienced a boring or uninteresting video you posted
Thanks Jamie, that’s kind of you to say. 👍
I ve done this job yesterday and two pistons where seized. It seems that the youtube algorithm reads the smell in my hands...
Ha ha, YT works in mysterious ways. 👍
Great video, My911! Jonathan 👋
Thank you. 👍
Mine just sprung a leak Delphi slave cylinder just ordered £15.99 plus £3.50 postage. thanks for video. having a watch before doing the job
You are welcome. Good luck. A tip on my video from another subscriber suggested to leave the cylinder bolts loose on the back plate before you tighten down the brake line. Avoids cross threading the connector. 👍
cheers will do, also look for a repair kit, instead of throwing out the old. repair it an keep as a spare@@My911
Good idea
The seals are not glued in place. There should be a spring in the middle that pushes the seals against the metal ends.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the air). That can cause the wheel & master cylinders to rust so the recommendation is to change the brake fluid every couple of years. I have been told that the water is what turns brake fluid black, but your brake fluid is still clear so I don't know what has caused the corrosion.
Graham
Thanks Graham. It’s a hit if a mystery. As you know, the car has been stored dry for all the years even since the restoration. I picked up an original girling part from my old garage this weekend and lugged it (and others) back to Dresden. So will do some comparison soon. The Girling parts are works of art, I can tell you.
Happy New Year all, I changed changed out all master and slave cylinders (brake and clutch) when I did my restoration along with all the linings and clutch plate. A big meccano set indeed, always something to tinker with. Mine's running great now and I use it every weekend and sometimes during the week for errands. I'm really enjoying this beast and it's become quite a conversation piece indeed.
Very cool. I’m glad you are enjoying and using it.
No need for a meter. Do the adjustment with the wheel on and hold the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle to feel play - tighten till play goes and then back off until you feel “about 1mm of wiggle”. Job done. At least that’s how we were taught at VM school.
Great tip. Thank you David.
As one of the other posters has said, you are missing bits in the slave. One spring and two metal cups that sit inside the seals and act as a hard surface for the springs to push against. Good work, great videos!
Hi, thanks for your message. I know what you mean. There are components missing from the cylinder assembly but they are not supplied with the after market models. I wonder if I can modify them. Hmmm…
Put the AA badge on. They look great! polish it up, and it will look sharp!
Good job
Thank you.
Leaky brake cylinders seem to be a thing at the moment, I know quite a few owners who are having no end of trouble at the moment, TRW cylinders included. I must admit that I did take a bag of brake cylinder seals with me to France in the summer, just in case.... Regarding the loose drive flanges- don't use anything other than the thin paper gaskets, the thicker Klinger type gaskets that are available tend to result in the bolts chivvying loose, no idea which you have but that has been my experience. By the way, no need for PTFE tape on the brake fittings- if brake lines are leaking the flares aren't doing their job. Enjoy the fruits of your labours, a very tidy Rover!
Thanks Phil. I dug out one of the old Girling wheel cylinders while I was in the UK over the weekend, and it’s clear to see the difference between true quality and low quality. The Girling seem better in virtually every possible way even over the ‘own’ versions of today.
@@My911 Yeah, it's a bit sad really but it's quite true. You can still get NOS seal kits and whilst they are ancient, the seals are actually better than the new replacements. The quality of rubber parts is a big issue at the moment, for example- the new coolant hoses I fitted this year lasted a month..
That’s really shocking. It’s such a mine field buying spare parts. It makes me want to set up a supply outlet for quality parts only. I think people would be happy to pay the right price for a good quality item.
@@My911 I agree, there is certainly a market for it and even more so as the values increase.
Nice to see you enjoying the car again! When it comes to tuning I think it's important to keep things simple, if it smells rich and the plugs read rich then just lean out the carb a little at a time, dive it compare experience and repeat. Keep it that simple. Only change one thing at a time and in small increments so you can go back to where you were if need be. I have a test circuit that involves a very steep hill that I always use for road tuning. One could very easily dive into the complexities of the finer details of tuning, mechanical and vacuum advance, plug gaps, carb jetting, cam and a whole range of details that matter, but kind of don't as well. The distributor will likely be worn and out of spec, thats effectively a lot of what the ECU does on a modern car, does it matter..... not really. Say you are at 70% of the cars potential, small changes from here and electronic ignition might get you to 90% in a few afternoons. If you want that last 10% it's going to cost money to have the rocker assembly rebuilt by a machine shop, complicated testing of the distributor, possibly re jetting the carb, possibly a head rebuild and you will likely hardly notice the difference. Save the black magic of the last 10% for one of the other high performance cars you mentioned previously. Almost there, don't get lost in details and go backwards. Parts are always a drama with classics, for that you need advice from someone else, I've not done a landrover. But you can have the original wheel cylinders stainless sleeved and put a seal kit in them, I'm always having wheel cylinders fail so for me thats a good option. Someone that knows landrovers may well tell you to buy a particular brand of new because they are known to be good, they should last almost indefinitely if the brake fluid is flushed and replaced every five years or so. The current issue was just crap parts, something that everyone driving classics deals with.
Hi Greg, thanks for the insight. I uncovered the AH Frogeye Sprite when I was over in Kent this weekend. It’s very far gone but saveable I think. Will upload a video soon. That used to be a race car back in the 60’s so more up your street I would think. Such a cool little classic.
@@My911 Cool little car! Those are engines I know much better and are infinitely tuneable. I'm currently building a 1275 A series to go in my daughters Minor and the transverse 1275 version for an Austin 1300 which will be my new daily. You can do so much with them, firstly because the factory did, putting the A series in so many BMC vehicles in different forms of tune and secondly because people have been making them go faster since the day they were new. Hope the rust isn't too bad, I watch people in the UK save cars that here we wouldn't even consider restoring, but then you can order repair sections off the shelf and freight isn't such an issue and thats a huge help. I would suggest that restoring a sprite is likely well over four times the effort of doing the landrover though, so keep that in mind. If you can buy the heritage body panels and repair sections you need (which I'm pretty sure you can), trust me just do it regardless of the expense. One can easily spend an entire year every weekend just welding if you are building the skills as you go. Good content though, no one else on youtube doing one that I know off if thats also an objective.
On the flange bolts, I think you are supposed to put some threadlock on them.
You can buy AFR. Air to fuel ratio gauges, if you want. I don't know if they are of any use having never used one.
I don't know if you watch Britannica Restorations or not. But he is my expert on Landies. Mostly real time videos.
Anyway, happy motoring.
Thanks Billy. I’ll check him out. 👍
@@My911 He is in Canada, great mechanic.
Super Video!
Magst du mal ein Video machen (oder hast es vielleicht schon) wie du die Bremse entlüftest?
Und wo stellst den den Unterstellbock am besten drunter…? Unter die Bodenplatte von der Sprungfeder?
VG
Moin Michael, danke dir. Ja, entlüften ist ohne Spezial Werkzeug nicht leicht, auch wenn Mann alleine ist. Am besten mit zwei Personen. Eine der pumpt und der andere geht rum und entlüftet. Am besten HL, HR, VL und zu letzt VR. Unterstellbock ist genau da am besten platziert. Sei aber vorsichtig wegen der kleine Gewinde der unten rausguckt. VG Joël
@@My911Danke für deinen Antwort und danke dir für die Arbeit die du machst und uns teilhaben lässt! Macht spaß zuzusehen und man lernt viel 👍
Danke dir.
Ready for a roadtrip now! Right decision: Always fit branded brake components. How much is your life worth?😊
Exactly.
Joel, it looked very much like there were spring washers on the cylinder retaining studs. As Kevin says, you don’t need a DTI gauge to adjust wheel bearings on a Land Rover Series vehicle. The seals are not glued onto the pistons. Did you examine the bore of the cylinder? With that pitting on the piston, I would expect the cylinder bore to be pitted too. You can get a cylinder home to re-surface the bore. You need to get good quality stuff when you’re doing brakes, I’d expect the TRW cylinder to be good quality, but there’s a lot of rubbish about. Avoid Britpart for safety critical parts.
Hi Mark, I see. So those seals are loos against the piston? I’ll check the inside surface when I’m up there next.
@@My911 The inner spring and the springs on the shoe hold the seals against the back of the pistons 👍🏻
As a few others have said red rubber grease will help stop corrosion.. and the original Girling units and the more expensive aftermarket units should have a spring and metal plates behind the rubber seals.. the quality really does vary from part to part even with the better branded parts.. chrome is not what it used to be.. as parts suppliers dissappear (bearmach) quality will suffer even more..
Hi Paul, I didn’t know Bearmach had gone… crickey.
@@My911 not sure if there's a rescue plan but website is still down and stock was possibly being sold off..
Just a small point I always put red rubber grease behind the black outer dust covers and ensure it lubicates the pistons. This reduces the chance of corrosion on pistons. Also in my experience the quality of the new brake cylinders is very suspect,the lowest bidder etc. Another little tip is to clamp off the flexible brake pipe to prevent the brake fluid leaking all out, I use a vise grip mole wrench and carefully clam pipe.
on setting the wheel bearing you don't need a dial gauge, you hand tighten the rear nut up with your socket and ensure their is no play after spinni g the hub by hand then fit lock washer and tighten up second but and I have never had a problem. However the hub seals are very poor quality and can fail after a few weeks and cover the brakes with grease.
Gees, the qualitybof modern parts stinks! I have experienced the above. Having spent the last few days in Kent, I dug out the parts I took off the car in the restoration and see how well built the Girling items are . I mean, light years apart from even the ‘OEM’ stuff from today.
Is "wheel cylinder" the preferred term nowadays? What do you call the cylinder at the other end of the line?
Hi Barry, I would call that the brake cylinder. I might have the term wrong though.
@@My911 Its just that in computing circles using the terms "master" and "slave" for controlling processes is now very much not acceptable, and terms like "client/server" or "primary/secondary" are used, and I wondered what we'd use in cars as alternative words in the brake and clutch systems...
Wheel cylinder and master cylinder is common.
I know you kept everything as original as possible… but for safety sake have you considered in installing disk brakes at least in the front?
I have, but the cost of the kit has prevented me from doing so. Are you aware of a cost effective solution?