This would be perfect for modifying cartridge casings. Heck even neck turning as well. I needed to convert some 308 Winchester over to 35 Remington. And I was able to do every single process with my reloading tools. Except for one and that was trimming the base down a few thousands and reprofiling the extractor groove. I did manage to chuck them in my electric drill and getting those to processes done with a file. But I took forever and it was less than consistent enough for my liking. But a micro lathe like this would make short work of my requirements.
Don't know what you're doing for a motor but have you thought about one of the cheap hand held $25 Router's with speed control button there around 700w that's a lot more than other over could fit it to perspex with different holes drilled for 3 pulleys to control speed slide it across to line up then use them leaver clamps about $2 each just claiming when it's lined up correct put marks so you know after first time use it should be good set up for bigger work
Im a little head of the game here got a DB200 unimat with mill attachments.gave a guy 500$ for it around 4 ,5 years ago. It come for a dentist estate sale in the factory wooden box. It's the heavy one with single big x cast in base. I don't think it was ever used.
I know all about watchmakers lathes, i was lucky with mine, costing me only €400,- for a Boley with all but 1 collets (but i managed to find a 1.2 mm which was broken.. ) See if you can find someone with a bigger lathe and Drill a hole through the main spindle, so you can clamp longer rods, maybe even get a conical hole in the front to clamp collets as most of the small work is nicer to hold in a collet..
I somehow managed to find a watchmaker lathe (from an actual watchmaker's estate, no less) for a really good price... the caveat is that it had no compound slide for precise operation and uh... my motor skills ain't it. So any idea where I can get a compound slide? Or cross slide, I think they mean the same thing. It's a Whitcombe lathe, but I think I'm going to forgo the standard and just use one of the prebuilt things like you glossed over when you mentioned the Chinese thing.
great ideas but i will tell you from personal experience that the ball screw will be problimatic you may want to look at feed screws over ball screws it goes into the geometry of the screw
The Amazon $200 lathes as you called them are not plastic like you said they are....They are different colors but the color is not plastic parts. One even states the only plastic piece is the motor cover....Just saying.
i absolutely plan on it but i want to make sure it works first plus i still need to source a couple small parts but ill post vectors and part list in follow up video
How's this project coming along? I just subscribed because this is dang near what I'm looking for. Need 8 inches of cutting space for brass. Don't see why I couldn't lengthen the cutting space but I have no idea what I'm doing. Is the spindle and the attached attachments capable of handling the length?
You should have used steel for the base plate, using acrylic is obviously a bad idea. Heck, even aluminium would have been a much better idea and probably more than suitable for the type of light work you would do with a tiny lathe like that. Acrylic might be be usable, perhaps even while making parts out of steel on the lathe, but it simply lacks the rigidity/stiffness for accurate work. And accurate work is precisely what jewelers/watchmakers lathes are meant for. Also you should have used a trapezium leadscrew and definitely not a ballscrew, as ballscrews are meant for CNC machines for a specific reason. Trapezium threads have holding power, meaning if you rotate the wheel attached to it until your slide is in position and then take your hand off of it, it will remain in place and not move, even if it encounters force while cutting your workpiece. Ballscrews are much smoother and have very little friction, which is precisely what you don't want in a manual machine because it means the forces from the cutting action will just cause your slide(s) to move all over the place instead of remaining in place. In CNC machines ballscrews are attached to servo or stepper motors, which indirectly provide the holding power for them.
its actually delrin and its half inch...then its having thick steel linear rails screwed into that to stabilize it even more, the travel on the lathe is only maybe 9 inches or so, and its not like it will be cutting really big projects...im thinking its more than rigid enough to cut steel but we shall see, im almost ready to finish it. ill be posting my results in a week or so.
I see that you have used most the parts for this project in other projects/ideas. What about the lathe idea as explained. Is it in progress, if so how about an update of where you are at, or is it a semi abandoned/ dead in the water/ tried it and it didn't work type project. All the later ideas are great, but the lack of information or followup on this video does not fulfill the expectations of the video or this viewer, Keep up the good work. Thank You...
Hey buddy , Im an amateur watchmaker and have done clock repair for years . Your videos are wonderful. Anyway , If ve been intredted in watch case restoration and found the jooltool .... 800!!! For a vertical buffer !!!!! You hotta check ut out and do a video , the amateur or even professional restoration guys would love it
i already did a video comparing my machine (the gumball) to the Jooltool. ..and yes, mine can do everything it can do AND a lot more...plus my machine is made with much better parts . im not sure what type of motor the Jooltool uses but i suspect maybe a 100 watt? mine uses a 500 watt and mine costs only $65 bucks compared to $600 for the Jooltool... My goal was to give Jewelry makers and all sort of other hobbyists an option that goes something like this , are you looking to buy , IDK, lets say a flat lap? you could spend $500 bucks on a dedicated machine, or as another option, you could spend just $150 bucks on a entry level 3D 3d printer and print a gumball...this way you'll end up with both a flat lap AND a 3d printer for only 25 percent the price of the dedicated machine and thats just the beginning, the gumball will ultimately be able to convert into a ton of other machines, which allows you to continue to save money with every new machine you ultimately didnt have to buy and you sort of end up not only saving money, but even if you end up buying a printer for this project alone, the cost savings , essentially makes the printer free.The gumball is sort of a 3d printer companion, that when combined with a 3d printer, will allow a user to make almost anything.
How's this project coming along? I just subscribed because this is dang near what I'm looking for. Need 8 inches of cutting space for brass. Don't see why I couldn't lengthen the cutting space but I have no idea what I'm doing. Is the spindle and the attached attachments capable of handling the length?
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I just love your content. Keep on rocking friend, you are serving a community need.
What a great idea for polishing. You truly have the most innovative brain. Thank you.
Cool head stock, will see if I can find those, tried most of the those other lathes. Nice to know my old watchmakers lathe is worth something.
Super cool. Looking forward to the build!
I'm excited about this project. Legendary resourcefulness yet again Sir.
thanks!
This would be perfect for modifying cartridge casings. Heck even neck turning as well. I needed to convert some 308 Winchester over to 35 Remington. And I was able to do every single process with my reloading tools. Except for one and that was trimming the base down a few thousands and reprofiling the extractor groove. I did manage to chuck them in my electric drill and getting those to processes done with a file. But I took forever and it was less than consistent enough for my liking. But a micro lathe like this would make short work of my requirements.
Beautiful!!!
exactly what I'm looking for, can't wait to see the end product and parts list - Howz it coming along?
Don't know what you're doing for a motor but have you thought about one of the cheap hand held $25 Router's with speed control button there around 700w that's a lot more than other over could fit it to perspex with different holes drilled for 3 pulleys to control speed slide it across to line up then use them leaver clamps about $2 each just claiming when it's lined up correct put marks so you know after first time use it should be good set up for bigger work
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
This is going to be good.
Vrlo lepo ,kako ste zadovoljni sa masinom?
This video is helpful. Thanks❤
I’m very interested in this I have been looking at the cheap mini lathes for a project I have in mind
Im a little head of the game here got a DB200 unimat with mill attachments.gave a guy 500$ for it around 4 ,5 years ago.
It come for a dentist estate sale in the factory wooden box. It's the heavy one with single big x cast in base. I don't think it was ever used.
I know all about watchmakers lathes, i was lucky with mine, costing me only €400,- for a Boley with all but 1 collets (but i managed to find a 1.2 mm which was broken.. )
See if you can find someone with a bigger lathe and Drill a hole through the main spindle, so you can clamp longer rods, maybe even get a conical hole in the front to clamp collets as most of the small work is nicer to hold in a collet..
I somehow managed to find a watchmaker lathe (from an actual watchmaker's estate, no less) for a really good price... the caveat is that it had no compound slide for precise operation and uh... my motor skills ain't it. So any idea where I can get a compound slide? Or cross slide, I think they mean the same thing.
It's a Whitcombe lathe, but I think I'm going to forgo the standard and just use one of the prebuilt things like you glossed over when you mentioned the Chinese thing.
great ideas but i will tell you from personal experience that the ball screw will be problimatic you may want to look at feed screws over ball screws it goes into the geometry of the screw
Is there a parts list? I’d love to build this
Very cool ....parts info please 😎
The Amazon $200 lathes as you called them are not plastic like you said they are....They are different colors but the color is not plastic parts. One even states the only plastic piece is the motor cover....Just saying.
Is Gumball a replacement for this lathe? Or you plan to build this lathe separately?
No im definetly going to finish this lathe. I have been working on it this week actually and will be posting my progress soon. Its almost done!
Thanks for the reply
Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ❤️👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😂
Would you list the parts and where you got them and how much, that would really help.
i absolutely plan on it but i want to make sure it works first plus i still need to source a couple small parts but ill post vectors and part list in follow up video
@@sweetgumnyc7794 Awesome, thanks and keep up the good work.
subscribed for this project. :-)
thanks i appreciate it!
How's this project coming along? I just subscribed because this is dang near what I'm looking for. Need 8 inches of cutting space for brass. Don't see why I couldn't lengthen the cutting space but I have no idea what I'm doing. Is the spindle and the attached attachments capable of handling the length?
i took a short break because of several other projects but i am planning on finishing this very soon.
That spindle may be only $30, but they want $140 in shipping costs to get it to me…
You should have used steel for the base plate, using acrylic is obviously a bad idea. Heck, even aluminium would have been a much better idea and probably more than suitable for the type of light work you would do with a tiny lathe like that. Acrylic might be be usable, perhaps even while making parts out of steel on the lathe, but it simply lacks the rigidity/stiffness for accurate work. And accurate work is precisely what jewelers/watchmakers lathes are meant for. Also you should have used a trapezium leadscrew and definitely not a ballscrew, as ballscrews are meant for CNC machines for a specific reason. Trapezium threads have holding power, meaning if you rotate the wheel attached to it until your slide is in position and then take your hand off of it, it will remain in place and not move, even if it encounters force while cutting your workpiece. Ballscrews are much smoother and have very little friction, which is precisely what you don't want in a manual machine because it means the forces from the cutting action will just cause your slide(s) to move all over the place instead of remaining in place. In CNC machines ballscrews are attached to servo or stepper motors, which indirectly provide the holding power for them.
its actually delrin and its half inch...then its having thick steel linear rails screwed into that to stabilize it even more, the travel on the lathe is only maybe 9 inches or so, and its not like it will be cutting really big projects...im thinking its more than rigid enough to cut steel but we shall see, im almost ready to finish it. ill be posting my results in a week or so.
I see that you have used most the parts for this project in other projects/ideas. What about the lathe idea as explained. Is it in progress, if so how about an update of where you are at, or is it a semi abandoned/ dead in the water/ tried it and it didn't work type project. All the later ideas are great, but the lack of information or followup on this video does not fulfill the expectations of the video or this viewer, Keep up the good work. Thank You...
Where the links brother?
i will post the links in my follow up video once its finished being built and confirmed to work.
@@sweetgumnyc7794 I'm planning to build this myself so much looking forward to your video on the finished product!
Hey buddy , Im an amateur watchmaker and have done clock repair for years . Your videos are wonderful. Anyway , If ve been intredted in watch case restoration and found the jooltool .... 800!!! For a vertical buffer !!!!! You hotta check ut out and do a video , the amateur or even professional restoration guys would love it
i already did a video comparing my machine (the gumball) to the Jooltool. ..and yes, mine can do everything it can do AND a lot more...plus my machine is made with much better parts . im not sure what type of motor the Jooltool uses but i suspect maybe a 100 watt? mine uses a 500 watt and mine costs only $65 bucks compared to $600 for the Jooltool... My goal was to give Jewelry makers and all sort of other hobbyists an option that goes something like this , are you looking to buy , IDK, lets say a flat lap? you could spend $500 bucks on a dedicated machine, or as another option, you could spend just $150 bucks on a entry level 3D 3d printer and print a gumball...this way you'll end up with both a flat lap AND a 3d printer for only 25 percent the price of the dedicated machine and thats just the beginning, the gumball will ultimately be able to convert into a ton of other machines, which allows you to continue to save money with every new machine you ultimately didnt have to buy and you sort of end up not only saving money, but even if you end up buying a printer for this project alone, the cost savings , essentially makes the printer free.The gumball is sort of a 3d printer companion, that when combined with a 3d printer, will allow a user to make almost anything.
How's this project coming along? I just subscribed because this is dang near what I'm looking for. Need 8 inches of cutting space for brass. Don't see why I couldn't lengthen the cutting space but I have no idea what I'm doing. Is the spindle and the attached attachments capable of handling the length?