If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 Intro To Growing Pea Plants 0:34 Tip #1: Growing Peas From Seed 1:25 Tip #2: Pea Planting Schedule 4:45 Tip #3: How To Plant Peas 6:37 Tip #4: Fertilizing Pea Plants 10:25 Tip #5: Thinning Pea Plants 13:20 Adventures With Dale
Here in Talladega Alabama, the temperature dropped down to 23F All my cool weather crops were covered and came through the freeze without any damage, including my snow peas. However, it was too cold for my warm weather plants, even inside my poly tunnel greenhouse. I lost all my tomato, pepper, basil, and marigolds. I spent the day sowing seeds tarts to replace the plants I lost, Here is a tip on planting peas. Count out the number of seeds for the plants you want to start and place them in water for 3-4 days. By this time, most seeds should have started germinating, and roots should be visible. Plant all the seeds regardless of whether a root is showing, or not. You should see sprouts in three or four days. I used this method this year, and got 100 percent germination.
I'm in Oklahoma and lost all my Tomatoes in our greenhouse last night due to drop in temperature here also. Thanks for the tip on soaking the peas longer!
Man, that really stinks. I'm sorry to hear that. I feel your pain. I lost all of my initial sowings of tomatoes from damping off disease in February, so all my transplants are 3-4 weeks behind. Looks like we have another freeze coming for us tonight. This has been a really troublesome year from the brutally cold December, crazy warm late January into February, and March has been consistently colder than February, which is causing even more trouble. I hope now that this triple dip La Nina has come to an end, things sort of calm down.
@@TheMillennialGardener Amen! At least it wasn't total devastation, like back in December. My lettuce, mustard, spinach, Asian greens, turnips, carrots, beetroot, peas, strawberries, potatoes, onions, Swiss Chard and kale, survived without any problems. And I got my cucumbers and squash planted on schedule. The tomato plants will be small going int o the ground, but they'll catch up. The peppers are going to be a problem. They won't be going into the ground until late April, off to a late start. They are slow growers.
Here in NW Georgia, lows have only gotten into the mid- upper 20’s. My peas outside are fine, as are my little kale plants just starting to pop. Carrots look “iffy.” I have peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, tomatillos, fennel, celery, etc., in the greenhouse. With the help of a Big Buddy heater, it’s stayed above freezing in the greenhouse and everything looks great, and I’m thankful for that. I sowed a whole lot of dwarf tomato seeds and those are expensive. I’d really hate losing that crop. Tonight is supposed to be the last really cold night, at least for a while. Hoping to start getting warmer weather crops into raised beds soon!
@@vlunceford I am definitely going to have to look into heating the greenhouse next winter. My biggest concern is moisture. When it is closed up, it gets as humid as a sauna, and drips water.
I wish every gardener with a RUclips channel would state their general location like you do. That helps the viewer to figure whether they can do what you're doing at any given time during the season.
Most that I watch do but yes!! Especially when it's titles like, "PLANT THIS NOW!" or "what to grow in such and such month." Especially for the sake of newbies, which is a huge chunk of who's watching these.
I heard about you from my neighbor just in time because I was thinking of growing peas not just for my husband and myself but also for our ducks and chickens. I've been on a lot of sites for gardening but since I live in Wilmington NC you will be easy for me to follow. I'm really actually new to gardening with decent results and have also started a backyard orchard and I see you have videos on this also. So thank you
Perfect! Now is the right time for us to plant peas. If you start them now, you should be harvesting before Memorial Day when the heat shows up. Definitely don't delay, though, because in another week or two, it'll start getting too late to start peas here.
I don't think that's possible in spring, because the sunflowers are frost sensitive. The sunflowers would have to be planted a month ahead of the peas at least, and by then, it's going to be way too hot for most places to grow peas. I don't think it would work in fall, either, because the sunflowers would probably die back before the peas were ready. I think you'd need to live in an area where you could grow peas in summer for this to work reliably.
I know sunfowers inhibit beans from growing... wonder if the sa.e is true for peas. Last year I planted a row of beans in the same bed my sunfowers reseed on their own, the multi flower type, and not one sprouted.
Thank you! I tried to grow peas last year..Not very successful..I am going to try again..hopefully I will do better! You video definitely encouraged me to try again..😊
I have a thriving bed of peas that is 2'x4', there are easily 30 plants, along with 4-5 garlic. Had a fall heat wave in in NC that stunted them and I just let the pods it produced fall to the ground to reseed.
Thanks for this very informative, i tried growing peas a while ago with no success and also i cant get the seeds easily here - Am Dennis watching from Nigeria
It is probably because your soil temps are too warm. They need cool soil to germinate. A trick is to start your peas in transplant trays and put them in the refrigerator overnight, then take them outside in the day. That simulates the spring in temperate areas, so you can pretend like you’re in a cooler place where peas grow.
On the 3rd tip I have to add a few different ways I do it. When planting outside I open two holes in the same spot right next to each other. In the first I put the new fresh seeds I bought for this year and in the other I put the older seeds that I have from the previews sowing. If I don't have older seeds, I'll still put only one in each spot and I'll sow a few in trays to cover any empty spots that didn't germinate. If however I found local seeds by the pound (kilo where I am) I don't sweat it, it's so cheep I put 3 in each hole!
Of course. I have years of videos just like these if you search through my older videos from other seasons. I will make more as the season progresses, but there isn’t enough time to cover everything, so I like to refer back to older content.
We no longer have cool summers here in the PNW, and this fact is due in no small part to the way those big box store fertilizers you mention are manufactured.
Great video as always! I love snap peas!! How do you avoid your HOA? A couple of us in my neighborhood have gardens and catch a ton of trouble for it. One neighbor had wood trellising and was forced to pay to put up a fence and now his neighbor complains they can see it over the fence!! We have the misfortune of being in the middle of the neighborhood in a cul de sac and touch 7 other yards. Only two give us trouble, but that's enough. We also know the complainers will be the first ones looking for food and want what we have if it comes to that! We really want a couple chickens but the crabby people, of course, are the ones that would be able to see them even though they would be all the way on the other side from them. I don't really care for people that live in glass houses! Thanks for the video. Can't wait to see the pea harvest!!!
The way you deal with an HOA is to bite the bullet and construct a fence. My entire yard is fenced in, so it is not visible from the street. The HOA has no right to trespass on your property. They can only write you up for what they observe from the street, and anything behind the fence is considered to be invisible, because they are not allowed to step foot on my property to look over it. By fencing in your yard, you get all the neighborhood protections of an HOA and all of the freedom of private property, at least where I live. It may vary in different states our counties, but that's how it is in my neighborhood. Now, if I did something like built a 15 ft tall building in the backyard that was towering over the fence, I could get in trouble, but I'm not going to ever do anything like that. Chicken are not allowed, but that's for a whole host of reasons. You could live outside an HOA, but your zoning classification could prevent chickens. That's a noise issue. I know technically hens don't make noise, but in a lot of neighborhoods, only domesticated animals are allowed, and chickens are not considered domesticated in most areas.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for the reply! We do have a 6 foot fence. problem is our yard touches 6 other yards due to our cul de sac location. All but one neighbor is cool. Our HOA used to be fine until one particular woman made it to President. Isn't that how it always goes! The neighbor that can see into our backyard complains to her and she is more than happy to complain to us even though you can't see from the street!
Curious - why not over-seed nearby, like a few inches away, instead of on top of each other, then get rid of the extras and use the ones you need without disrupting others?
@The Millennial Gardener thank you. I'm giving them a go first time. I'll see what happens. That's the fun of gardening. Besides waiting for your next straw bale episode. I'm waiting for uncovering the bananas as I've done as you recommended over winter.
Our summer can’t heat can jump up so dramatically in the spring that I start my peas as soon as possible. I actually started them in February and covered with six mil plastic. I’m gonna takeoff the plastic here this week. My biggest tip is make sure you trellis. I thought the seed packet was being facetious about having to trellis - it’s not. If you don’t trellis your peas, they just won’t grow.
I've found it's easier to protect them from cold than heat. Although shade cloth does make a big difference. Trellising depends on the varieties you grow. I am growing dwarf peas, which don't require significant trellising. Vining peas can be more productive, but you'll need to develop the infrastructure for them. I like growing peas as a zero-effort crop.
Peas will struggle when temperatures regularly and consistently get into the 80’s. You can protect them from the odd hot day here and there with shade cloth draped over them, but if it stays too hot too long, they won’t taste very good and become “woody.”
We only hit 40.1°F. The rest of NC was in the 20’s but our little corner never fell out of the 40’s. We got lucky, but tonight is going to be much worse.
What are your thoughts on spouting your pea seeds in a damp paper towel first? After just a few days you can open up your seeds and pick the ones that have started the germination process and skip overseeding all together.
For me, it isn't necessary, because pea seeds easily germinate at appropriate times of the year. It would be a laborious additional step. If you live in a place where peas don't grow well because your soil is too warm, or you want to get a jump start on the season, it may be a good solution. My soil temps are in the 60's during February, so it's the ideal time for me to sow peas, so I can't justify making it more complicated for my situation.
Since peas don't like the hot temps, and you say to plant for the fall crop on July 28th, won't that be way too hot?? How can they withstand that late July heat?
You can provide them shade. You can plant them underneath or behind a plant that will give them shade but later be ripped out. For example, you can plant them behind tomatoes in July that will be removed in September, so in the heat of the summer, they can grow protected, and then when the tomatoes are gone, they get the full, cooler, fall sun. Alternatively, you can also grow them under 30-40% shade cloth. I have very inexpensive shade cloth linked in my Amazon store in the video description under Greenhouse Accessories.
I suspect the young plants probably love the heat and big sunshine as long as they don't dry out, and the worst of the heat has passed with August, just in time to start flowering and fruiting in milder weather. That's my guess, I don't know. I've never second-cropped vegetables, but this will be my first year doing it (well, trying).
Peas will grow well in a greenhouse as long as you don't let it get too hot. Peas like 50's, 60's and 70's. If it gets into the 80's for a long period of time, they can suffer. You'd probably want to grow vining peas in a greenhouse so you can grow them vertically.
Excellent, informative, and helpful video. Thank you! I love your videos! But, of course, I have to do my internet citizen duty and criticize it...🤣 1. Putting fertilizer right in the hole with the seeds themselves is probably a *really* bad idea for most people. This is an almost sure-fire way of burning the new seed before it even has a chance to break the ground. Fertilizer should go where the root ball of the plant is going to be in a couple of months, so the entire 5 inch circular area around the plant, to 5 inches in depth. Basically, the entire garden area, and tilled/mixed in. 2. Double-seeding - Putting 2 seeds in 1 hole is a bad idea, also. The reason is because you cannot kill (or transplant) one plant without disturbing the other plant's root system. The remaining plant does not need that insult. Instead, put holes every 2.5 inches instead of 5 inches. Most seeds will sport a better than 90% germination ratio, meaning you really only need one extra seed for every 9 seeds that you plant. Just put an extra hole for every 10 plants, roughly, and you will have plenty of spares to move to empty spots. (You might be having a lot of no-shows due to putting fertilizer straight in against the seed.) 3. Plants will adapt and grow into empty volumes to position themselves to grab sunlight, so the following advice is of limited use - The best and densest planting method (since we are hand-planting and not machine planting) is in a hexagonal pattern. This is easier than it sounds. Let's say the first row and third row have seeds planted at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, and so on, inches on a measuring tape. Row two, between them, should have seeds planted at the halfway mark between the seeds of rows one and three, so row two seeds are planted at 2.5, 7.5, 12.5, 17.5, 22.5, 27.5, and so on. This helps the plants to not waste precious resources growing into sunny areas. Less plant, more peas. This applies to almost any crop. If your rows are 5 inches apart, your plants are 5 inches from each of it's 4 closest neighbors and 7 inches away from the other 4 neighbors (8 neighbors in total). But if you stagger the plants as described above, a plant has 2 neighbors 5 inches away and 4 neighbors at 5.6 inches away (6 neighbors). This gives your plant 30.2 square inches of land (and sun) area versus 25 square inches in the traditional way of planting. This is 20% more sun for each plant. Now, plants are adaptable, and will grow to go find the sun, but in this new planting geometry, each plant can find the full available sunlight area using about 20% less stalk, which requires energy invested into something that you don't eat. You will have perhaps 10% more peas in the same size garden, and about 10% less stalks/vines to break down for next year's soil. (roughly). 4. Most pea varieties like a very mildly acidic soil, Ph of 6 to 7.5. They aren't happy with high phosphate levels, so many gardeners will do fine with fertilizers that are X-0-Z composition (no phosphorous). Manure delivers a lot of phosphorous, so go easy on the manure as a fertilizer additive when planting peas. A manure and compost combination should make peas very happy. The compost portion should drive the Ph down a little and the manure should provide more than enough nitrogen and phosphorous. A little wood ash, used sparingly, should provide additional Ph lowering as well as all the potash your peas will ever need. I'm a fan of chemical fertilizers just because they are so easy, but I am an even bigger fan of paying absolutely nothing for my fertilizer/garden needs. Your second crop will probably need no soil augmentation at all, if you don't mind a little lower yield in the fall. I've screwed up my own gardens and flower beds by over-fertilizing, which is worse than not fertilizing at all, in my experience. I've really burned a lot of flowers to death in my day. 🤣
I'll try to address these concerns. 1. Organic granulated fertilizer is inert. It has to be broken down my soil biology to be usable, so it's actually not fertilizer in its raw form. You can place it in the planting hole, and it will not burn your plants because it's inert in its granular form. If you used a pelleted synthesized 10-10-10, you could burn your plants, but this is organic and not usable right now. 2. All you have to do is snip the second plant. You won't disturb the other seedling at all. There is no reason to pull up the roots from the inferior plant, so you have nothing to worry about. Planting 2 peas in 1 hole is perfectly safe. Just snip off the weaker seedling as shown. 3. The peas I planted are dwarf varieties. They are not a vining type. The dwarf varieties, when planted too crowded, fall all over themselves and grow into a big, matted mess. Providing appropriate spacing is important, or you will find it very difficult to harvest the pods. When you grow vining types, you can be more experimental with spacing and patterns, because you can direct their growth with supports. However, I grow peas as an absolute zero-maintenance crop. I have my hands full growing other things, so I specifically grow varieties of peas where I literally don't have to spend more than 15 minutes on them from germination to harvest all season. 4. This point, I sort of disagree with. I think with peas, it's most important to restrict nitrogen. They do well with phosphorous when sowing and after germination, because they're building roots. After that, I don't give them anymore granulated organics, because they don't need heavy nutrients anymore after that point. With peas, I only give them balanced fertilizer the 2-3 times they get it all season, because I don't feel they're one of the rare "light feeders" and shouldn't favor a particular macronutrient. That's my take on those few items. Hope it made sense.
1. Fall planted peas MUST be Powdery Mildew (PM) resistant. 2. You are obviously not a "Crocket's Victory Garden" student (1978). Peas should be planted thickly, some even touching each other. Crocket: "If you are stingy with them they will be stingy with you."
There are two types of peas: vining peas and dwarf peas. These are dwarf peas. They need more room, because they do not require a trellis to grow up against. Growing dwarf peas in high density = one giant, clumpy mass of peas.
I zig zag plant my pea seeds one inch apart. I plant them along the back of a garden box with a trellis made of string across from one board to another ( obviously screwed into eack end of the garden box ) then plant a shorter crop like lettuce, radishes or carrot in the center and front. As soon as i get my second picking out of three, -2 weeks apart from first harvest, then i plant an additional zigzag 3 inches in front of the old ones. Two weeks later i harvest my final crop, then pull the old plants, chop them & toss on the floor of the area ill be needing nitrogen for next year crop rotation. After the second batch is complete ( because we have full blown long winters here with deepfreezes ) i pile all my garden plant, chop them , sprinkle over the garden and gather enough leaves around town to cover with a solid foot of leaves. Toss on more sheep manure, toss netting over all of it, pin down with tent hooks and leave all winter till spring melts the snow. Then toss on compost and ,,,,,,, its ready- no till garden. Add mulch mix after planting.
If you germinate these peas by soaking them overnight then keeping them in a moist paper towel in a dark place for a couple days, you will not have to over-seed. You will know which ones germinated thereby cutting down in the step of thinning.
For places with short growing season: keep in mind that peas need more warmth to sprout than to grow! So, you could start your peas indoors, and transplant them outdoors when they're 2-3 inches tall. I use half toilet paper rolls, so I don't disturb the roots too much. I also never fertilize, I just add an inch of home made compost once a year (yes, my garden is very small).
Peas germinate best in soil temps between 50-75 degrees. That 60-degree range really is perfect. One thing you can do is cover the area with some clear plastic to intensify the warmth if your soil is still chilly. Or, you could cover it with a tarp for the first 5 days. That will lock in warmth and heat up your soil.
One note about seeding. If you have critters like I do, the Chipmunks WILL find your seeds and eat them almost immediately. Cover them with a mesh screen small enough that they can’t dig them out. Because they will find them. I took off a covering today on some plants that had grown to about 3” but I had also re-seeded some gaps. Within 2 hours those seeds were dug up and gone.
Another excellent video! You’re always so informative, clear and concise with your instruction. I think you’re the best garden teacher on RUclips. Thank you for your videos
Hi Antonio. I watched this Video, a very good video. However; I watched your video on 5 food crops to grow where you was talking on growing white (Irish potatoes). I lived in Wyoming in a valley where the snow get 6 to 9 ft. deep and hangs on until June. I learned then that potatoes (white ones) could be planted while it was still quiet cold. The potatoes would grow when we had warm spells and then freeze back when it would freeze again, on and on. The first time I did this I thought I am wasting my time, I figured they wouldn't make at all. Boy did I get a pleasant surprise I made the nicest crop of potatoes I ever made. A 20 ft. X 30 ft. area produced over 500 lbs. of potatoes. Jessie from Arkansas
The potato foliage itself is frost tender, so any frost or freeze will kill them to the ground. However, if the ground doesn't freeze solid, the tubers can keep growing perennially. In the eastern corner of my house, I dumped a grow bag full of potatoes there 4 years ago to harvest them. I guess I missed a tiny potato or two, because they keep growing back every single year like weeds. When we get warm spells here in January, they will germinate and pop up. Then, we'll eventually get hard freezes in February and that'll kill them back down, but they come back again as soon as it warms up again. It's a non-stop cycle. Potatoes can become self-sustaining.
You may find that you get some volunteer potatoes that over winter from years past if you happen to miss a few tubers during harvest. Bonus! Last time I planted potatoes was 5 years ago. There's still some coming up in that bed! 😊
Instead of over-seeding in-ground, start a module tray indoors and transplant out into the locations where the seed didn't germinate in the bed. That way you get ideal in ground growth and cover the chance of minor germination failure/weather/pest losses.
why would you overseed and then thin, and then disturb the plants by moving them around when instead you can sow the seeds at closer intervals? In fact, you can sow them in a grid as close as 1" apart. The ungerminated seeds will provide plenty of space for the roots of all your plants. Pea root systems are tiny, about the size of your fist in terms of how far they spread. I mean, do what works for you but you're wasting seeds, you're wasting time, you're decreasing your yield and all the effort goes against you. I urge you to simply poke more holes and fill the entire growing space as a grid, forget row spacing. Try it once and you will find it necessary to put out a new video on this topic. Unless you want to keep it to yourself.
That is going to depend on the variety you grow. These are dwarf peas, and they climb all over each other and form a big ball of mass when they're too close. It makes it very difficult to harvest. Keeping spacing so they don't climb all over each other is key. If you grow a vining type up against a trellis, you may be able to get away with closer spacing.
I love Sugar Snap Peas! I grew them for the first time and regretted only planting 2 plants. This time, I'm planting way more and I'm going to fertilize so each plant gives me more peas.
Peas are so easy to grow once they germinate that it's always best to grow more than you need. They're so low maintenance compared to most crops that it's a joy to watch them grow.
This is why I love Melbourne weather. We can grow them from autumn all the way to spring non stop. Although for the last few years, we also manage to grow a crop during summer, and we get hot summers. By growing them under fruit trees.
I was able to get good production with my snap peas well into late June last summer, despite heat indexes off 115°+ eat indexes, thanks to heavy watering.
Just planted my snap pea seeds yesterday. Lil Greenhouse is 70-80's during the day in the sun but too cold at night for my tomatoes but shouldn't have any more hard freezes. I like when all the youtube gardeners release videos of the stuff I'm planting... exactly the way I just did. That means I'm doing something right! Edit: The only thing I didnt do was fertilize... but I added 5 cubic feet of new Miracle grow soil to top the bed, that counts.
Peas require very little fertilizer, so you don't have to worry if you missed a feeding. Sprinkle a little granulated organic stuff on top, water it in and they'll do fine. They don't need the sort of intervention that beefsteak tomatoes do. Peas are a joy to grow.
Dale is such a good boy!!! I love pea shoots. Been eating them for a long time at my local Chinese restaurant! It’s actually one my fa favorite things to eat at the restaurant! Have never grown peas so I’ve never made them at home but I think that’s going to change!!
Peas are one of the easiest to grow vegetables out there. They're a great addition to any garden since they're so low maintenance compared to most crops. Dale sends his love ❤
Thanks for the great tips! Your videos are always concise, interesting and very informative. I learn something on every one that I watch. As for eating pea shoots, they are Amazing!! I put them on my egg salad sammies!
Thank you. I was lunchin’! I did a lot of winter sowing so was waiting until Passover (Good Friday) to put anything into the ground. I’m glad I watched this cuz I didn’t sow any peas. Putting them in this morning. 👍🏽
Great video! I love how you explain things in detail and your camera work is excellent, very helpful! I have a question...are the peas you sowed going to need trellising? ...and if so, how do you trellis them when you have them in a bed with several rows long and across like that? I always grow my peas along a fence or put up stakes and twine. Just curious, thanks! Love seeing Dale!
The peas I sowed are dwarf type, so they don't require trellising, or they can get by with very light trellising, such as 24 inch stakes with some twine run across a couple times. If you grow vining types, you'll want to grow them against some kind of fence. You can choose the varieties you want based on the space you have to grow them in.
Do you have any videos on how to use Jack's 20-20-20? I ordered some. I want to hit my fruit trees with it. I just did the slow fertilizer but now I want to hit them with a fast one like Jack's.
urban gardening looks miserable. it looks like baking. "apply this fertilizer correctly- just a dash!" sheeeesh, how am i supposed to be a man and feel ok pouring little dashes of bought-products on a pea seed.
A friend of mine, his 8 year old son and I were at a restaurant the other day. His son kept getting up and walking over to the table next to us and was trying to steal a woman's peas. After about the third time of him doing this, I turned towards the other table and explained to him in a loud firm voice, "Kid, those are NOT your peas. Those are HER PEAS." 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
These are a dwarf variety, so they don’t require significant trellising. If you want to grow a vining type, you’ll need something to grow them against or a support.
Thank you for posting and the visuals are very helpful. I will be overseeding for the first time now that you’ve explained it so well. I’ll be checking out your other videos ☀️👍🏼
I put pea seeds last year and it didn’t grow till beginning of January-February and completely forgot wtf is growing in my garden 😂 it’s now beginning to grow crazy good in the middle of March and it’s going really well of me not knowing what it was.
That depends on the soil you planted it in, hot warm it is, how big the plants are, etc. You have to monitor them. Watering is an art. You can stick your finger 1-2 inches deep and if it's dry, it needs water.
Why not? Where there is a will, there is a way. If you're in southern Florida, start peas as transplants in October. A trick is to sow them in containers and then stick them in your refrigerator overnight to cool the soil, then take them back outside into the shade during the day. After 7-10 days of that trickery, they should germinate. Then, transplant them into your garden in November for a harvest in January when your temps are perfect. If it gets a little hot here and there, throw a 40% shade tarp over them til it cools back down. I guarantee you can do it if you think of a system like I just laid out.
You can do that if you wish. I think it's faster to drop two in one hole, but as long as you thin them to a spacing where the plants don't climb all over each other into a big ball, you're fine.
If you enjoyed this video, please "Like" and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for watching 😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience:
0:00 Intro To Growing Pea Plants
0:34 Tip #1: Growing Peas From Seed
1:25 Tip #2: Pea Planting Schedule
4:45 Tip #3: How To Plant Peas
6:37 Tip #4: Fertilizing Pea Plants
10:25 Tip #5: Thinning Pea Plants
13:20 Adventures With Dale
I liked the video. What dwarf variety did you use?
Here in Talladega Alabama, the temperature dropped down to 23F All my cool weather crops were covered and came through the freeze without any damage, including my snow peas. However, it was too cold for my warm weather plants, even inside my poly tunnel greenhouse. I lost all my tomato, pepper, basil, and marigolds. I spent the day sowing seeds tarts to replace the plants I lost, Here is a tip on planting peas. Count out the number of seeds for the plants you want to start and place them in water for 3-4 days. By this time, most seeds should have started germinating, and roots should be visible. Plant all the seeds regardless of whether a root is showing, or not. You should see sprouts in three or four days. I used this method this year, and got 100 percent germination.
I'm in Oklahoma and lost all my Tomatoes in our greenhouse last night due to drop in temperature here also. Thanks for the tip on soaking the peas longer!
Man, that really stinks. I'm sorry to hear that. I feel your pain. I lost all of my initial sowings of tomatoes from damping off disease in February, so all my transplants are 3-4 weeks behind. Looks like we have another freeze coming for us tonight. This has been a really troublesome year from the brutally cold December, crazy warm late January into February, and March has been consistently colder than February, which is causing even more trouble. I hope now that this triple dip La Nina has come to an end, things sort of calm down.
@@TheMillennialGardener Amen! At least it wasn't total devastation, like back in December. My lettuce, mustard, spinach, Asian greens, turnips, carrots, beetroot, peas, strawberries, potatoes, onions, Swiss Chard and kale, survived without any problems. And I got my cucumbers and squash planted on schedule. The tomato plants will be small going int o the ground, but they'll catch up. The peppers are going to be a problem. They won't be going into the ground until late April, off to a late start. They are slow growers.
Here in NW Georgia, lows have only gotten into the mid- upper 20’s. My peas outside are fine, as are my little kale plants just starting to pop. Carrots look “iffy.” I have peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, tomatillos, fennel, celery, etc., in the greenhouse. With the help of a Big Buddy heater, it’s stayed above freezing in the greenhouse and everything looks great, and I’m thankful for that. I sowed a whole lot of dwarf tomato seeds and those are expensive. I’d really hate losing that crop. Tonight is supposed to be the last really cold night, at least for a while. Hoping to start getting warmer weather crops into raised beds soon!
@@vlunceford I am definitely going to have to look into heating the greenhouse next winter. My biggest concern is moisture. When it is closed up, it gets as humid as a sauna, and drips water.
I wish every gardener with a RUclips channel would state their general location like you do. That helps the viewer to figure whether they can do what you're doing at any given time during the season.
Most that I watch do but yes!! Especially when it's titles like, "PLANT THIS NOW!" or "what to grow in such and such month." Especially for the sake of newbies, which is a huge chunk of who's watching these.
Stop wishing
@@cliffdariff74 What's your point?
It has made this guy an instant favorite for me because I know he’s growing the same place as me
Great video, no fluff, straightforward useful information. I subscribed
As always, the advice shared is most valuable to we the beginning gardeners. Thanx loads sir.
I heard about you from my neighbor just in time because I was thinking of growing peas not just for my husband and myself but also for our ducks and chickens. I've been on a lot of sites for gardening but since I live in Wilmington NC you will be easy for me to follow. I'm really actually new to gardening with decent results and have also started a backyard orchard and I see you have videos on this also. So thank you
I’m not even in America and yet I find his videos so applicable, easy to follow and full of great information. Good luck with your garden this spring
Perfect! Now is the right time for us to plant peas. If you start them now, you should be harvesting before Memorial Day when the heat shows up. Definitely don't delay, though, because in another week or two, it'll start getting too late to start peas here.
Love your dedication, it’s beautiful
OMG stay to the end….sweetness with dale is so adorable and heartwarming. Lucky pup.
Love the idea of using Sun Flowers as a growing climber for my peas.
I don't think that's possible in spring, because the sunflowers are frost sensitive. The sunflowers would have to be planted a month ahead of the peas at least, and by then, it's going to be way too hot for most places to grow peas. I don't think it would work in fall, either, because the sunflowers would probably die back before the peas were ready. I think you'd need to live in an area where you could grow peas in summer for this to work reliably.
I know sunfowers inhibit beans from growing... wonder if the sa.e is true for peas. Last year I planted a row of beans in the same bed my sunfowers reseed on their own, the multi flower type, and not one sprouted.
Useful. Always learn something from this guy's videos.
Amish Snap Peas are SO GOOD!!! I planted them in February and covered them with greenhouse plastic during a freeze. They are now flowering.
Very nice! They’re my favorite vegetable to eat raw out of the garden…aside from Sungold cherry tomatoes, of course 😆
Is there link?
I love Dale’s wee coat to keep him warm out in the garden 🐶🥰
💚🍀
Dale has a narrow temperature tolerance with his short hair. Under 60, he is cold. Over 70, he is hot 😆
@@TheMillennialGardener Dale is a beautiful wee boy. I have a Chongqing….he’s half bald….patchy furred 🤣😂
Thank you! I tried to grow peas last year..Not very successful..I am going to try again..hopefully I will do better! You video definitely encouraged me to try again..😊
Outstanding! Peas mostly come down to timing. If you time them correctly, they grow with little maintenance.
I Love growing peas! The kids love to run to the garden and pull em right off for some garden snacks! Great video! Blessings and namaste family
Thank you! I appreciate you watching.
YOU'RE AWESOME DUD
Thanks for watching!
Very excited to be growing peas for the first time this year. Thanks for the help.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Dale is a super hero! Wearing a red cape, lol!😂
He’s the best boy 🐕
great video, thnx
Thank you. Great information.
You’re welcome!
I have a thriving bed of peas that is 2'x4', there are easily 30 plants, along with 4-5 garlic. Had a fall heat wave in in NC that stunted them and I just let the pods it produced fall to the ground to reseed.
Thanks for this very informative, i tried growing peas a while ago with no success and also i cant get the seeds easily here - Am Dennis watching from Nigeria
It is probably because your soil temps are too warm. They need cool soil to germinate. A trick is to start your peas in transplant trays and put them in the refrigerator overnight, then take them outside in the day. That simulates the spring in temperate areas, so you can pretend like you’re in a cooler place where peas grow.
On the 3rd tip I have to add a few different ways I do it. When planting outside I open two holes in the same spot right next to each other. In the first I put the new fresh seeds I bought for this year and in the other I put the older seeds that I have from the previews sowing.
If I don't have older seeds, I'll still put only one in each spot and I'll sow a few in trays to cover any empty spots that didn't germinate.
If however I found local seeds by the pound (kilo where I am) I don't sweat it, it's so cheep I put 3 in each hole!
Great video. You included lots of information
Thank you!
My snow peas grew about two feet tall and then totally dried out and died! In Kentucky in June
fantastic channel full of great infomation thks
Great video! Can you do this everything you plant? Helps us new gardeners 👍
Of course. I have years of videos just like these if you search through my older videos from other seasons. I will make more as the season progresses, but there isn’t enough time to cover everything, so I like to refer back to older content.
Great and helpful information, as usual! Thank you again, MG😊👍
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching as always.
We no longer have cool summers here in the PNW, and this fact is due in no small part to the way those big box store fertilizers you mention are manufactured.
Great video as always! I love snap peas!! How do you avoid your HOA? A couple of us in my neighborhood have gardens and catch a ton of trouble for it. One neighbor had wood trellising and was forced to pay to put up a fence and now his neighbor complains they can see it over the fence!! We have the misfortune of being in the middle of the neighborhood in a cul de sac and touch 7 other yards. Only two give us trouble, but that's enough. We also know the complainers will be the first ones looking for food and want what we have if it comes to that! We really want a couple chickens but the crabby people, of course, are the ones that would be able to see them even though they would be all the way on the other side from them. I don't really care for people that live in glass houses! Thanks for the video. Can't wait to see the pea harvest!!!
The way you deal with an HOA is to bite the bullet and construct a fence. My entire yard is fenced in, so it is not visible from the street. The HOA has no right to trespass on your property. They can only write you up for what they observe from the street, and anything behind the fence is considered to be invisible, because they are not allowed to step foot on my property to look over it. By fencing in your yard, you get all the neighborhood protections of an HOA and all of the freedom of private property, at least where I live. It may vary in different states our counties, but that's how it is in my neighborhood. Now, if I did something like built a 15 ft tall building in the backyard that was towering over the fence, I could get in trouble, but I'm not going to ever do anything like that.
Chicken are not allowed, but that's for a whole host of reasons. You could live outside an HOA, but your zoning classification could prevent chickens. That's a noise issue. I know technically hens don't make noise, but in a lot of neighborhoods, only domesticated animals are allowed, and chickens are not considered domesticated in most areas.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for the reply! We do have a 6 foot fence. problem is our yard touches 6 other yards due to our cul de sac location. All but one neighbor is cool. Our HOA used to be fine until one particular woman made it to President. Isn't that how it always goes! The neighbor that can see into our backyard complains to her and she is more than happy to complain to us even though you can't see from the street!
Curious - why not over-seed nearby, like a few inches away, instead of on top of each other, then get rid of the extras and use the ones you need without disrupting others?
I'm in zone 8b can I plant now Fayetteville NC
My pea plants were being stripped of leaves.Not eaten.Found out that female cardinals were chewing the leaf stems.Had to use bird nets.
Is the jacks fertilizer organic?
Love sugar snap peas. First time growing this year. You planted in rows, so they don't need a trellis?
These are dwarf varieties. If you grow vining types, you’ll need a trellis of some sort.
@The Millennial Gardener thank you. I'm giving them a go first time. I'll see what happens. That's the fun of gardening. Besides waiting for your next straw bale episode. I'm waiting for uncovering the bananas as I've done as you recommended over winter.
Our summer can’t heat can jump up so dramatically in the spring that I start my peas as soon as possible. I actually started them in February and covered with six mil plastic. I’m gonna takeoff the plastic here this week.
My biggest tip is make sure you trellis. I thought the seed packet was being facetious about having to trellis - it’s not. If you don’t trellis your peas, they just won’t grow.
I've found it's easier to protect them from cold than heat. Although shade cloth does make a big difference. Trellising depends on the varieties you grow. I am growing dwarf peas, which don't require significant trellising. Vining peas can be more productive, but you'll need to develop the infrastructure for them. I like growing peas as a zero-effort crop.
Hi where can i get the seed?
What do you consider a “hot” summer? I’m in southwest Idaho where temps can reach 100 on occasion
Peas will struggle when temperatures regularly and consistently get into the 80’s. You can protect them from the odd hot day here and there with shade cloth draped over them, but if it stays too hot too long, they won’t taste very good and become “woody.”
I noticed when said you planted in a bed there was no trellis - what are you usuIng to help them climb?..
These are dwarf peas. They don't require staking. If you plant climbing varieties, you'll need a trellis.
How cold did ya'll get this morning? Here in north alabama we got down to 19f.
We only hit 40.1°F. The rest of NC was in the 20’s but our little corner never fell out of the 40’s. We got lucky, but tonight is going to be much worse.
What are your thoughts on spouting your pea seeds in a damp paper towel first? After just a few days you can open up your seeds and pick the ones that have started the germination process and skip overseeding all together.
For me, it isn't necessary, because pea seeds easily germinate at appropriate times of the year. It would be a laborious additional step. If you live in a place where peas don't grow well because your soil is too warm, or you want to get a jump start on the season, it may be a good solution. My soil temps are in the 60's during February, so it's the ideal time for me to sow peas, so I can't justify making it more complicated for my situation.
Did you build a trellis for your peas?
Since peas don't like the hot temps, and you say to plant for the fall crop on July 28th, won't that be way too hot?? How can they withstand that late July heat?
You can provide them shade. You can plant them underneath or behind a plant that will give them shade but later be ripped out. For example, you can plant them behind tomatoes in July that will be removed in September, so in the heat of the summer, they can grow protected, and then when the tomatoes are gone, they get the full, cooler, fall sun.
Alternatively, you can also grow them under 30-40% shade cloth. I have very inexpensive shade cloth linked in my Amazon store in the video description under Greenhouse Accessories.
I suspect the young plants probably love the heat and big sunshine as long as they don't dry out, and the worst of the heat has passed with August, just in time to start flowering and fruiting in milder weather. That's my guess, I don't know. I've never second-cropped vegetables, but this will be my first year doing it (well, trying).
What about greenhouse peas?
Peas will grow well in a greenhouse as long as you don't let it get too hot. Peas like 50's, 60's and 70's. If it gets into the 80's for a long period of time, they can suffer. You'd probably want to grow vining peas in a greenhouse so you can grow them vertically.
Excellent, informative, and helpful video. Thank you! I love your videos!
But, of course, I have to do my internet citizen duty and criticize it...🤣
1. Putting fertilizer right in the hole with the seeds themselves is probably a *really* bad idea for most people. This is an almost sure-fire way of burning the new seed before it even has a chance to break the ground. Fertilizer should go where the root ball of the plant is going to be in a couple of months, so the entire 5 inch circular area around the plant, to 5 inches in depth. Basically, the entire garden area, and tilled/mixed in.
2. Double-seeding - Putting 2 seeds in 1 hole is a bad idea, also. The reason is because you cannot kill (or transplant) one plant without disturbing the other plant's root system. The remaining plant does not need that insult. Instead, put holes every 2.5 inches instead of 5 inches. Most seeds will sport a better than 90% germination ratio, meaning you really only need one extra seed for every 9 seeds that you plant. Just put an extra hole for every 10 plants, roughly, and you will have plenty of spares to move to empty spots. (You might be having a lot of no-shows due to putting fertilizer straight in against the seed.)
3. Plants will adapt and grow into empty volumes to position themselves to grab sunlight, so the following advice is of limited use - The best and densest planting method (since we are hand-planting and not machine planting) is in a hexagonal pattern. This is easier than it sounds. Let's say the first row and third row have seeds planted at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, and so on, inches on a measuring tape. Row two, between them, should have seeds planted at the halfway mark between the seeds of rows one and three, so row two seeds are planted at 2.5, 7.5, 12.5, 17.5, 22.5, 27.5, and so on. This helps the plants to not waste precious resources growing into sunny areas. Less plant, more peas. This applies to almost any crop. If your rows are 5 inches apart, your plants are 5 inches from each of it's 4 closest neighbors and 7 inches away from the other 4 neighbors (8 neighbors in total). But if you stagger the plants as described above, a plant has 2 neighbors 5 inches away and 4 neighbors at 5.6 inches away (6 neighbors). This gives your plant 30.2 square inches of land (and sun) area versus 25 square inches in the traditional way of planting. This is 20% more sun for each plant. Now, plants are adaptable, and will grow to go find the sun, but in this new planting geometry, each plant can find the full available sunlight area using about 20% less stalk, which requires energy invested into something that you don't eat. You will have perhaps 10% more peas in the same size garden, and about 10% less stalks/vines to break down for next year's soil. (roughly).
4. Most pea varieties like a very mildly acidic soil, Ph of 6 to 7.5. They aren't happy with high phosphate levels, so many gardeners will do fine with fertilizers that are X-0-Z composition (no phosphorous). Manure delivers a lot of phosphorous, so go easy on the manure as a fertilizer additive when planting peas. A manure and compost combination should make peas very happy. The compost portion should drive the Ph down a little and the manure should provide more than enough nitrogen and phosphorous. A little wood ash, used sparingly, should provide additional Ph lowering as well as all the potash your peas will ever need. I'm a fan of chemical fertilizers just because they are so easy, but I am an even bigger fan of paying absolutely nothing for my fertilizer/garden needs. Your second crop will probably need no soil augmentation at all, if you don't mind a little lower yield in the fall. I've screwed up my own gardens and flower beds by over-fertilizing, which is worse than not fertilizing at all, in my experience. I've really burned a lot of flowers to death in my day. 🤣
I'll try to address these concerns.
1. Organic granulated fertilizer is inert. It has to be broken down my soil biology to be usable, so it's actually not fertilizer in its raw form. You can place it in the planting hole, and it will not burn your plants because it's inert in its granular form. If you used a pelleted synthesized 10-10-10, you could burn your plants, but this is organic and not usable right now.
2. All you have to do is snip the second plant. You won't disturb the other seedling at all. There is no reason to pull up the roots from the inferior plant, so you have nothing to worry about. Planting 2 peas in 1 hole is perfectly safe. Just snip off the weaker seedling as shown.
3. The peas I planted are dwarf varieties. They are not a vining type. The dwarf varieties, when planted too crowded, fall all over themselves and grow into a big, matted mess. Providing appropriate spacing is important, or you will find it very difficult to harvest the pods. When you grow vining types, you can be more experimental with spacing and patterns, because you can direct their growth with supports. However, I grow peas as an absolute zero-maintenance crop. I have my hands full growing other things, so I specifically grow varieties of peas where I literally don't have to spend more than 15 minutes on them from germination to harvest all season.
4. This point, I sort of disagree with. I think with peas, it's most important to restrict nitrogen. They do well with phosphorous when sowing and after germination, because they're building roots. After that, I don't give them anymore granulated organics, because they don't need heavy nutrients anymore after that point. With peas, I only give them balanced fertilizer the 2-3 times they get it all season, because I don't feel they're one of the rare "light feeders" and shouldn't favor a particular macronutrient.
That's my take on those few items. Hope it made sense.
This is all I ever wanted for the world is more "peas" ! lol
More peas on Earth is better.
1. Fall planted peas MUST be Powdery Mildew (PM) resistant.
2. You are obviously not a "Crocket's Victory Garden" student (1978). Peas should be planted thickly, some even touching each other. Crocket: "If you are stingy with them they will be stingy with you."
There are two types of peas: vining peas and dwarf peas. These are dwarf peas. They need more room, because they do not require a trellis to grow up against. Growing dwarf peas in high density = one giant, clumpy mass of peas.
I zig zag plant my pea seeds one inch apart. I plant them along the back of a garden box with a trellis made of string across from one board to another ( obviously screwed into eack end of the garden box ) then plant a shorter crop like lettuce, radishes or carrot in the center and front. As soon as i get my second picking out of three, -2 weeks apart from first harvest, then i plant an additional zigzag 3 inches in front of the old ones. Two weeks later i harvest my final crop, then pull the old plants, chop them & toss on the floor of the area ill be needing nitrogen for next year crop rotation.
After the second batch is complete ( because we have full blown long winters here with deepfreezes ) i pile all my garden plant, chop them , sprinkle over the garden and gather enough leaves around town to cover with a solid foot of leaves. Toss on more sheep manure, toss netting over all of it, pin down with tent hooks and leave all winter till spring melts the snow. Then toss on compost and ,,,,,,, its ready- no till garden. Add mulch mix after planting.
If you germinate these peas by soaking them overnight then keeping them in a moist paper towel in a dark place for a couple days, you will not have to over-seed. You will know which ones germinated thereby cutting down in the step of thinning.
Didn’t assume I could learn much about peas… but you delivered as always 😜👍🏻 And what a sign of trust from Dale to let you have his chewie 🥰
I’m glad the video was helpful! Dale is a good boy. He’s come a long way. He is very secure…except with thunderstorms and fireworks 😆
For places with short growing season: keep in mind that peas need more warmth to sprout than to grow! So, you could start your peas indoors, and transplant them outdoors when they're 2-3 inches tall. I use half toilet paper rolls, so I don't disturb the roots too much.
I also never fertilize, I just add an inch of home made compost once a year (yes, my garden is very small).
Peas germinate best in soil temps between 50-75 degrees. That 60-degree range really is perfect. One thing you can do is cover the area with some clear plastic to intensify the warmth if your soil is still chilly. Or, you could cover it with a tarp for the first 5 days. That will lock in warmth and heat up your soil.
A bit of Bonemeal will help with the phosphorus.
do you have a video tutorial on the toilet paper?
One note about seeding. If you have critters like I do, the Chipmunks WILL find your seeds and eat them almost immediately. Cover them with a mesh screen small enough that they can’t dig them out. Because they will find them. I took off a covering today on some plants that had grown to about 3” but I had also re-seeded some gaps. Within 2 hours those seeds were dug up and gone.
Another excellent video! You’re always so informative, clear and concise with your instruction. I think you’re the best garden teacher on RUclips. Thank you for your videos
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. I'm glad the videos are helpful.
Agree!
Hi Antonio. I watched this Video, a very good video. However; I watched your video on 5 food crops to grow where you was talking on growing white (Irish potatoes). I lived in Wyoming in a valley where the snow get 6 to 9 ft. deep and hangs on until June. I learned then that potatoes (white ones) could be planted while it was still quiet cold. The potatoes would grow when we had warm spells and then freeze back when it would freeze again, on and on. The first time I did this I thought I am wasting my time, I figured they wouldn't make at all. Boy did I get a pleasant surprise I made the nicest crop of potatoes I ever made. A 20 ft. X 30 ft. area produced over 500 lbs. of potatoes. Jessie from Arkansas
The potato foliage itself is frost tender, so any frost or freeze will kill them to the ground. However, if the ground doesn't freeze solid, the tubers can keep growing perennially. In the eastern corner of my house, I dumped a grow bag full of potatoes there 4 years ago to harvest them. I guess I missed a tiny potato or two, because they keep growing back every single year like weeds. When we get warm spells here in January, they will germinate and pop up. Then, we'll eventually get hard freezes in February and that'll kill them back down, but they come back again as soon as it warms up again. It's a non-stop cycle. Potatoes can become self-sustaining.
You may find that you get some volunteer potatoes that over winter from years past if you happen to miss a few tubers during harvest. Bonus! Last time I planted potatoes was 5 years ago. There's still some coming up in that bed! 😊
Instead of over-seeding in-ground, start a module tray indoors and transplant out into the locations where the seed didn't germinate in the bed. That way you get ideal in ground growth and cover the chance of minor germination failure/weather/pest losses.
why would you overseed and then thin, and then disturb the plants by moving them around when instead you can sow the seeds at closer intervals? In fact, you can sow them in a grid as close as 1" apart. The ungerminated seeds will provide plenty of space for the roots of all your plants. Pea root systems are tiny, about the size of your fist in terms of how far they spread. I mean, do what works for you but you're wasting seeds, you're wasting time, you're decreasing your yield and all the effort goes against you. I urge you to simply poke more holes and fill the entire growing space as a grid, forget row spacing. Try it once and you will find it necessary to put out a new video on this topic. Unless you want to keep it to yourself.
I plant my peas very close and they do phenomenal.
That is going to depend on the variety you grow. These are dwarf peas, and they climb all over each other and form a big ball of mass when they're too close. It makes it very difficult to harvest. Keeping spacing so they don't climb all over each other is key. If you grow a vining type up against a trellis, you may be able to get away with closer spacing.
Yep, if you plant it very close, it's likely to be bushier n bit unmanageable which from my experience I say
Over-seeding my peas is my middle name! Otherwise, it's a slim harvest.
I love Sugar Snap Peas! I grew them for the first time and regretted only planting 2 plants. This time, I'm planting way more and I'm going to fertilize so each plant gives me more peas.
Peas are so easy to grow once they germinate that it's always best to grow more than you need. They're so low maintenance compared to most crops that it's a joy to watch them grow.
This is why I love Melbourne weather. We can grow them from autumn all the way to spring non stop.
Although for the last few years, we also manage to grow a crop during summer, and we get hot summers. By growing them under fruit trees.
I was able to get good production with my snap peas well into late June last summer, despite heat indexes off 115°+ eat indexes, thanks to heavy watering.
Just planted my snap pea seeds yesterday.
Lil Greenhouse is 70-80's during the day in the sun but too cold at night for my tomatoes but shouldn't have any more hard freezes.
I like when all the youtube gardeners release videos of the stuff I'm planting... exactly the way I just did. That means I'm doing something right!
Edit: The only thing I didnt do was fertilize... but I added 5 cubic feet of new Miracle grow soil to top the bed, that counts.
Peas require very little fertilizer, so you don't have to worry if you missed a feeding. Sprinkle a little granulated organic stuff on top, water it in and they'll do fine. They don't need the sort of intervention that beefsteak tomatoes do. Peas are a joy to grow.
Dale is such a good boy!!! I love pea shoots. Been eating them for a long time at my local Chinese restaurant! It’s actually one my fa favorite things to eat at the restaurant! Have never grown peas so I’ve never made them at home but I think that’s going to change!!
Peas are one of the easiest to grow vegetables out there. They're a great addition to any garden since they're so low maintenance compared to most crops. Dale sends his love ❤
Thanks for the great tips! Your videos are always concise, interesting and very informative. I learn something on every one that I watch. As for eating pea shoots, they are Amazing!! I put them on my egg salad sammies!
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoy the videos. Peas are really versatile. From cooked to raw, there's a pea for everyone.
Thank you. I was lunchin’! I did a lot of winter sowing so was waiting until Passover (Good Friday) to put anything into the ground. I’m glad I watched this cuz I didn’t sow any peas. Putting them in this morning. 👍🏽
Great video! I love how you explain things in detail and your camera work is excellent, very helpful! I have a question...are the peas you sowed going to need trellising? ...and if so, how do you trellis them when you have them in a bed with several rows long and across like that? I always grow my peas along a fence or put up stakes and twine. Just curious, thanks! Love seeing Dale!
The peas I sowed are dwarf type, so they don't require trellising, or they can get by with very light trellising, such as 24 inch stakes with some twine run across a couple times. If you grow vining types, you'll want to grow them against some kind of fence. You can choose the varieties you want based on the space you have to grow them in.
I love how you include all grow zones. I'm in 10b and watch your videos all the time. thanks!
Thank you. Just went out and sewed my peas for my fall crop just as you instructed. Hoping for a great bounty. Dale is adorable.
Cannot grow peas all summer in New England, 19 days of 90 degrees in July alone this year.
I'm in Chicago Suburbs. My Peas are about a foot tall. Do you recommend shade cloth? I'm worried it'll get hot before harvest.
Do you have any videos on how to use Jack's 20-20-20? I ordered some. I want to hit my fruit trees with it. I just did the slow fertilizer but now I want to hit them with a fast one like Jack's.
I soaked the peas then filled my planting hole with Mycorrhiza fungi powder and 2-3 days later they were germinated and breaking soil..
urban gardening looks miserable. it looks like baking. "apply this fertilizer correctly- just a dash!" sheeeesh, how am i supposed to be a man and feel ok pouring little dashes of bought-products on a pea seed.
A friend of mine, his 8 year old son and I were at a restaurant the other day. His son kept getting up and walking over to the table next to us and was trying to steal a woman's peas. After about the third time of him doing this, I turned towards the other table and explained to him in a loud firm voice, "Kid, those are NOT your peas. Those are
HER PEAS." 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great content as always! I just planted a bunch of sugar snaps with my family in Mobile AL.
Thank you! I think that timing should work out for you. The last few nights in Alabama have been 🥶
I started an experimental fall sugar snap pea patch on august 20th in wilmington
Thanks for these tips! I’m in durham and growing peas this year for the first time!
When could I plant fall peas living in Massachusetts??🤔
I like to soak my pea/corn seeds for a 2-3 hrs before planting.
Damn , that looks like an effective earthmix ...selfmade ?
Do you add a trellis or any kind of support to the rows in the bed you showed in the video?
Billows electric hoodie? Where in Jersey are you from?
You can plant peas way closer together than you are doing it.
This is very helpful.
Thank you.
👍 Excellent presentation as always.
Your technique of overseeding is good
How do you do with climbers?
These are a dwarf variety, so they don’t require significant trellising. If you want to grow a vining type, you’ll need something to grow them against or a support.
Thank you for posting and the visuals are very helpful. I will be overseeding for the first time now that you’ve explained it so well. I’ll be checking out your other videos ☀️👍🏼
Too much work! I’ll grow something with less pampering! 😅😅
Qhat takes less pampering?
Just the best. Love your videos. Concise, easy to understand and relevant. Thank you!
You're very welcome! I'm glad the video was helpful.
I put pea seeds last year and it didn’t grow till beginning of January-February and completely forgot wtf is growing in my garden 😂 it’s now beginning to grow crazy good in the middle of March and it’s going really well of me not knowing what it was.
Peas can take awhile to germinate in cold soil. They are frost tolerant plants, but they take warm soil temps to germinate.
What about trellising?
How many water it needs?
That depends on the soil you planted it in, hot warm it is, how big the plants are, etc. You have to monitor them. Watering is an art. You can stick your finger 1-2 inches deep and if it's dry, it needs water.
Great video! Thanks.
You're welcome!
Our soil is by the rocky mountains, its crappy and slighly acidic, very much terrible clay and i never need to fertilize to get a massive crop
Peas don't really need much fertilizer once they get growing. They benefit from fertilizer in the beginning to put down roots and take off.
Can,t you grow more and plant
i can’t grow peas. Absolutely disaster in florida
Why not? Where there is a will, there is a way. If you're in southern Florida, start peas as transplants in October. A trick is to sow them in containers and then stick them in your refrigerator overnight to cool the soil, then take them back outside into the shade during the day. After 7-10 days of that trickery, they should germinate. Then, transplant them into your garden in November for a harvest in January when your temps are perfect. If it gets a little hot here and there, throw a 40% shade tarp over them til it cools back down. I guarantee you can do it if you think of a system like I just laid out.
When you say thin out, do you mean that if two plants produce in one spot you just remove one? And how do you decide which ones gets the heave-Ho?
Nevermind I kept watching and you answered my question 😂
Does this work with beans too?
I over seed but instead of double seeding in the same hole I just plant 25% more At 3 inches and transplant missing ones. I really like your channel.
You can do that if you wish. I think it's faster to drop two in one hole, but as long as you thin them to a spacing where the plants don't climb all over each other into a big ball, you're fine.
How'd ya end up with four rows when you planted 3 rows?
That is a different bed. I started with a fresh planting in a new bed and then moved to a bed I planted 3 weeks earlier to show how to thin.