This "cheap" repair almost BROKE me.

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  • Опубликовано: 10 янв 2025

Комментарии • 4,6 тыс.

  • @BSGSV
    @BSGSV 2 года назад +11429

    Moral of the story: If a connector on your expensive device breaks, disassemble the entire device and break several parts inside to make the repair cost worthwhile.

    • @maji0
      @maji0 2 года назад +515

      @@marcogenovesi8570 and have your employee replace the board for you

    • @Haarschmuckfachgeschafttadpole
      @Haarschmuckfachgeschafttadpole 2 года назад +346

      My guess is the $600 Sony was asking was to replace the board and for calibration. I can't see them opening the whole thing up and soldering a component like that especially since labor is expensive and if they make a mistake they'll have to replace the board anyways. Still, $600 to repair a camera that still costs almost $2k today even given it's age seems like it could be worth it.

    • @thejoey571
      @thejoey571 2 года назад +11

      You gotta have a extra reason to force you to cough up that cash

    • @fitybux4664
      @fitybux4664 2 года назад +74

      @@Haarschmuckfachgeschafttadpole Yes, toasted boards are usually shipped off to some lower tier guy or even sold to a different company that will try to repair them, and has some percentage yield of success. (Or, sometimes they even head straight for the garbage, depends on the profit margins.) When companies do repair work, they typically go for the "most likely to work, even if slightly more expensive" option.

    • @soulscreme
      @soulscreme 2 года назад +95

      Would have been smoother if Linus had any idea what the hell he was doing... Lots of gear, literally zero skill.

  • @rossmanngroup
    @rossmanngroup 2 года назад +4151

    That stuff is so frustrating. I still remember in 2009 through 2013, every time I would search for a video on how to do something it would edit out all the parts that told you how to deal with it actually said it was going to tell you how to do in the title. So aggravating!

    • @zexceilxaros4011
      @zexceilxaros4011 2 года назад +197

      Thankfully your videos are not filled with random background music, jump cuts and "read the poor English subtitles edited in"; removes the whole educational and helpful point of the videos.....

    • @11warum11
      @11warum11 2 года назад +44

      Hey Louis, glad you helped out with that a lot =)

    • @morkovija
      @morkovija 2 года назад +39

      Oh hey! Wild Louis appears! Cheers man

    • @TechnologistAtWork
      @TechnologistAtWork 2 года назад +30

      @@zexceilxaros4011 that's why he's the best. I just wish he'd expand to more devices other than Mac books just for the sake of education and not as a regular repair with the camera on.

    • @me0262
      @me0262 2 года назад +14

      Not only that, even with a good deal of knowledge you still don't get all of the information. What temperature is your station at? Leaded or unleaded (trick question)? How much airflow? What tips? What flux?
      BTW, love the videos and your cause, I sometimes put them on when I go to bed.

  • @therefix342
    @therefix342 2 года назад +1447

    A few tips from someone that has spent the past few years learning this kind of thing.
    1. Get a board holder. This is so important. You had the board at temperatures where the solder was molten whilst dragging it around your mat. You could have moved components on the other side of the board killing everything.
    2. You can remove bridges quite easily. Flux it up and run your clean tip over the pins, or use wick. You could have saved that port.
    3. Ports with holes in like this, I tend to just heat the board from underneath to prevent the heat melting the port. This port however was quite accessible, I probably wouldn’t even have used hot air to reflow it, I’d remove all the solder from the ground pins, push it though and resolder everything with an iron. This prevents potentially killing the board with excess heat, and prevents going through x5 ports.
    This is technically a pretty easy repair, once the board was removed it should have taken a couple minutes, so I guess this really does show how important taking baby steps is. I still really advise that people learn to do their own repairs. Probably don’t jump straight to a £3000 camera though haha(well £700 second hand now).

    • @KX36
      @KX36 2 года назад +16

      It's a dual row surface mount connector. Can't access the inner row with an iron.

    • @natsukage3960
      @natsukage3960 2 года назад +34

      @@KX36 If you look at 12:39, yes it is accessible and possible to solder using just an iron with a fine tip. The rear rows and not aligned with the front. You really need to use a little solder as possible though, because bridges are going to be an issue. Compared to the USB-C on the Switch, this is at least possible with an iron.

    • @todorow22
      @todorow22 2 года назад +14

      Agreed, possible with an iron.

    • @KX36
      @KX36 2 года назад +7

      @@natsukage3960 Ah, my experience of similar is all USB-C connectors. Still I wouldn't want to have to try to solder the inner row with an iron. Maybe just to go in afterwards and break the bridges with an iron.

    • @SAFbikes
      @SAFbikes 2 года назад +4

      Can y’all suggest a decent hot air station for beginners that won’t completely break the bank

  • @dil6969
    @dil6969 2 года назад +821

    Even if it was a shit show, I appreciate an accurate depiction of a repair being attempted well outside of someone's comfort zone and skill level. Very frequently, how-to videos are heavily edited and the person in charge of the repair doesn't tell you how many devices they screwed up over the years learning their profession. It gives me a better idea of whether or not a repair like this is even worth attempting. It also gives me a better understanding as to why these cameras are so goddamn expensive. The part count and internal complexity seems far beyond your average smartphone.

    • @LabGecko
      @LabGecko 2 года назад +14

      I think the difference is that smart phones just do it all small. Camera makers try to cheap out by putting less into chips and using 3rd party sourced chips, so they have to connect and route more. Then again, I'm not a camera engineer so this could be completely off base.

    • @dsp4392
      @dsp4392 2 года назад +8

      @@LabGecko I have the same feeling. Canon, Nikon and Sony are big, but they're not Samsung big, so they cannot integrate everything. Plus cameras have a ton of physical buttons, interfaces, outputs and sensors that just cannot be crammed into a single chip or abstracted away in software.

    • @KaptainCanuck
      @KaptainCanuck Год назад +6

      @@dsp4392, many of the camera and phone sensors are actually made by, get this, Sony.

  • @Airwolf-lm9cm
    @Airwolf-lm9cm 2 года назад +493

    Honestly while I absolutely support repairing your stuff it is also refreshing of you to show this part of the journey. In too many videos the hard and time consuming parts of these projects are 10 second montages. It doesn’t work like that.
    Sometimes you will make things worse. Doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try but always good to keep in mind.

    • @kornkernel2232
      @kornkernel2232 2 года назад +4

      Yep, many lf the videos are shortened and done by professionals have done it for thousands of hours. They make it looks easy even though in reality, cables are finicky, some latches are almost impossible to open, some areas are difficult to get around to.
      But this doesn't mean a device having ability to be reasonably serviced on your own should not be a thing, even its difficult. It's okay if it's difficult due to more complex miniature components. But not when they purposefully male it difficult and frustrating to discourage self service repair.
      I remember try to replace portable HDD before. Those were frustrating since they designed the device ti be difficult to service for a something should be pretty easy to service. Some actually even go on their way make internal HDD replaced the SATA port into USB, making it impossible for the drive to be reused.

    • @andymiller3366
      @andymiller3366 2 года назад

      but thats exactly what they did as soon as linus was off screen. They took apart the whole thing in a montage sequence

    • @agc2801
      @agc2801 2 года назад +2

      Yep i really liked the “failed” part it’s refreshing when you see even this guy it’s an average joe.

    • @st8kout961
      @st8kout961 2 года назад

      You just have to know your limitations. I've always tackled my own car repairs but I'd never try something like rebuilding a transmission or motor, (I did use to rebuild Volkswagen motors in the 70s, but those were simple compared to motors today.)

    • @bocahdongo7769
      @bocahdongo7769 2 года назад

      @@andymiller3366 let's be honest. At that point you'll spend 6-7 hour to figure it out and re-re-re-research the whole thing again.
      Just the reality of average user try to learn how to repair something

  • @callumb4980
    @callumb4980 2 года назад +1707

    Important time to point out that right to repair doesn’t just mean allowing you access to parts to repair your own devices, it also means allowing repair shops and trained individuals access to parts so they can repair your devices properly

    • @gblargg
      @gblargg 2 года назад +7

      I think you're taking the right too far. You have no right for companies to provide people to tutor you on how to do repairs. Fortunately such people exist naturally and the business isn't preventing such people from practicing.

    • @NoName-vh1nw
      @NoName-vh1nw 2 года назад +131

      @@gblargg you literally just said the same thing as them

    • @gblargg
      @gblargg 2 года назад +21

      @@NoName-vh1nw I didn't read top comment fully (the intro threw me off). I forgot that companies prevent repair shops from stocking repair parts, instead only selling one at a time and requiring device serial numbers or other BS before selling each one, so that repair shops can't do quick repairs but must wait days for them to be shipped.

    • @TheDanielHolt
      @TheDanielHolt 2 года назад +30

      Also, schematics not being readily available means that a repair shop or individual will have a much harder time

    • @Styreta
      @Styreta 2 года назад +15

      This, so much this. The average pleb cant do minute electronic repairs but they damn sure should be able to get it done at their local corner repair store!

  • @shangerdanger
    @shangerdanger 2 года назад +1591

    Tried to do this with a broken 1dxii... couldn't get it, put it back together wrong, and it shorted something on the board and costed extra to repair

    • @roddymcgtravels
      @roddymcgtravels 2 года назад +2

      Love ya vids man didn't expect to see you here :)

    • @JamieReynolds89
      @JamieReynolds89 2 года назад +35

      costed lol

    • @onlineghost9813
      @onlineghost9813 2 года назад +40

      Valueable lesson here, right to repair is a good thing, however, you need to have the knowledge, in cases like this one, linus ended up spending double the amount he was going to pay by sending this in to repair. If you have the knowledge and u know what you are doing, right to repair is a fair use, however, knowledge is mostly what these service centers sell, cuz when u dont know what u are doing, u end up paying the price.

    • @chanchan05
      @chanchan05 2 года назад +20

      @@onlineghost9813 I think it depends on how you look at it. If you absolutely need something fixed, sure send it in for repair. But for something broken that you have already a replacement for, I think it's fine to risk breaking it more and gaining the knowledge of opening it up and seeing the components and seeing what you can do about it.

    • @shangerdanger
      @shangerdanger 2 года назад +8

      @@JamieReynolds89 try hard english speaker lmao

  • @paulgrosse7631
    @paulgrosse7631 2 года назад +513

    A tip that I picked up when doing some work for the BBC decades ago - Any lead, like you say, is going to break the socket when you constantly push the thing in and take it out. Something needs to change and you can't change the socket. So, have a short "extender" lead that is permanently plugged into it and is taped down to the body or something that is screwed into the body (such as the mount) so that the short length of cable and the plug are not moving around relative to each other. Then when something goes, it is going to be the socket on the relatively cheap extension cable that you plugged in and not the expensive camera. Just replace the cable.

    • @potthethird
      @potthethird 2 года назад +15

      Smart

    • @rodent
      @rodent Год назад +8

      until the camera falls and, of course, extender pointing to the ground.

    • @Smart-Towel-RG-400
      @Smart-Towel-RG-400 Год назад +12

      They make magnitc connectors you plug in on once then it's like a magsafe connector or your not continuously pluging and unplugging the port just the mag connector

    • @chrisd.141
      @chrisd.141 Год назад +18

      @@Smart-Towel-RG-400 That technology works well for power delivery. For data delivery, in the example, such as micro HDMI, that is not sufficient.

    • @JamieSandel
      @JamieSandel 9 месяцев назад +2

      Smallrig makes a mini converter from micro to full HDMI that is designed to bolt on to a camera cage. Super handy for this

  • @LegionEmu396
    @LegionEmu396 2 года назад +962

    As someone who does small electronic repair for a living, this is the most stressful thing I've seen all week

    • @HanzFogl
      @HanzFogl 2 года назад +83

      even as someone, who has no clue about electronic soldering, seeing the plastic of the main board melt from the heatgun gave me anxiety

    • @maddog2010p
      @maddog2010p 2 года назад +28

      i used to be an electronics repair specialist for a class 3 shop. yeah this stressed me out like none other when i saw the size of that soldering tip. and yeah linus a good soldering iron will be about 300 bucks american in my opinion. as i used a hakko. he also needed a board warmer.

    • @Pdrum2
      @Pdrum2 2 года назад +15

      @@maddog2010p He could use an magnifying equipment while working

    • @AilisonCarvalho
      @AilisonCarvalho 2 года назад +16

      Linus' hands shakes more than my grandma with parkinson's. hahahahaha

    • @Krabbensalat1
      @Krabbensalat1 2 года назад +4

      and maybe use the soldering iron to remove shorts or solder it in with in the first place even though the tip is huge for this kind of connectors

  • @francistheodorecatte
    @francistheodorecatte 2 года назад +354

    on all the camera rigs I've worked on, there's a micro HDMI to HDMI adapter dongle hotglued into the camera, and the female full size HDMI port is mechanically locked to the camera rig frame to prevent someone unplugging the tally monitor slightly too roughly and writing off the camera body.

    • @Idiomatick
      @Idiomatick 2 года назад +41

      This camera comes with a hdmi-hdmi adapto that you can bolt directly into the side of the camera.

    • @shadow7037932
      @shadow7037932 2 года назад +53

      @@Idiomatick Lmao. So you're saying Linus didn't RTFM and failed hard on this in the first place?

    • @stefan514
      @stefan514 2 года назад +16

      Don't understand why they seem to miss the most obvious solution 🤷🏼‍♂️

    • @LtdJorge
      @LtdJorge 2 года назад +1

      @@shadow7037932 how does having the internal micro HDMI go to a normal HDMI and then the monitor differ from having the internal micro go directly to the monitor? In both options you are still tethered to the micro HDMI connector, which is the thing that breaks, because it's tiny.

    • @theprovost
      @theprovost 2 года назад +48

      @@LtdJorge what they probably mean is that the micro to full size HDMI connector cable affixes to the camera body itself, which means that the micro port doesn't have strain due to a wires tugging it around, as the connection is fixed in place

  • @linuxguy1199
    @linuxguy1199 2 года назад +1892

    Pro tip on how to solder those connectors, wick up all the existing solder, then solder the two outermost high density pins (not the mounting tabs, DO NOT use hot air to reflow it in place - as you hopefully learned lol). Then use a square shaped soldering iron tip to do the rest of the pins at once, as long as the connector is constantly submersed in flux the flux will mostly prevent solder bridges from forming. Using .015" or .010" solder is a MUST, and preferably 62/36/2 silver bearing solder helps. Finally, solder the two tabs. Preheating and using hot air to place the connector was completely unnecessary and ricked damaging other components on the PCB.

    • @antibodyarmy
      @antibodyarmy 2 года назад +176

      that would work for usb, but SMD microhdmi needs to be reflowed into place since there are two rows of pins to get soldered. what they actually need is a proper hotplate and a reflow oven/station

    • @nirodper
      @nirodper 2 года назад +50

      there seemed to be a second row of pins behind that could not be accesed

    • @pp3v42_g3h
      @pp3v42_g3h 2 года назад +62

      That is a two row HDMI connector, only way to solder it is to preheat the board, add flux, put leaded solder on all the pads, clean the flux, apply new flux and reflow the connector with most of the heat going to the boad and not the connector. If the alignment pins have big pads/holes the positioning can be really hard. Wouldn't recommend this repair for a beginner.
      I've replaced many two row connectors on phones, vr headsets and apple things and it's not fun :D

    • @Idiomatick
      @Idiomatick 2 года назад +23

      Hard to tell from the closeup at 12:40 but micro hdmi uses 2 rows of pins so it would be potentially very difficult without air. I might still try it though. His issue really was heating the whole board with the air, he should have taped off the area. And not blasted the plastic part, lol. He looked like he had the heat and airflow set to max.... which made the job harder.

    • @linuxguy1199
      @linuxguy1199 2 года назад +47

      @@antibodyarmy You're right! I just noticed the double rows in the video. The connectors I've done slot onto the edge of a board and have a row on the top of the PCB and a row at the bottom that can be easily handsoldered. Doing the ones in this video looks like a complete PITA, no chance in hell you could do that by hand without reflow.

  • @wiktormaek9973
    @wiktormaek9973 2 года назад +354

    1. Soldering connector back you can do without hotair.
    2. Not sure what solder did you use but looks like non lead one. If you are beginner I would use lead because it is so much easier to work with.
    3. Use desoldering pump for ground pins. Then you can just place connector in a correct spot and solder without hotair. Remeber that ground pin have a lot of thermal capacity so the moment you touch melted solder to it, temperature would drop and cause solder to go in to the solid state. Until you get back to melted point you will significantly heat the plastic in the connector.
    4. If you see that your solder blobs are kinda crumbly and irregular, that usually means too little flux or to low temperature. You would not solder anything correctly in that way.
    5. Remember about solder surface tension. It will auto align little mistakes(might not work that good with connector because of ground pins).
    6. When you are doing things like this don't get too stressed out. You need to be pretty precise and fast, but becasue you didn't practise on anything that calliber before your movements are chaotic and random which probably contributes to your mistakes.
    7. Practice on something that is junk anyway before. You should be able to get good results after learning a bit about basic properties of the material that you are working with.
    8. Especially being beginner. Not having correct tools for the job will make it nearly impossible to do. Not having heater might not be a problem for someone that was doing a lot of such stuff before. But for you it might be doing tremendous difference. If possible always try to pause what you are doing before getting tool. By not having it from the beginning you will do probably mess and later you would get it anyway. Realizing that you could do better job.
    Good luck

    • @adameichler
      @adameichler 2 года назад +13

      Only the ground pins can be hand soldered, because data pins have two rows - one of them is not reachable with soldering iron.

    • @wiktormaek9973
      @wiktormaek9973 2 года назад +14

      @@adameichler You're right. My bad.

    • @aHotdogThatComments
      @aHotdogThatComments 2 года назад +4

      @@adameichler it is possible to solder farther row without heat gun. you just need to bend closer pins up. I managed to fix this issue with 5€ soldering iron and a 5€ port.

    • @adameichler
      @adameichler 2 года назад +1

      @@aHotdogThatComments plausible, but scary 😁

    • @kacey4k
      @kacey4k 2 года назад +2

      You can also use water to control/limit temperature spread to plastics. Either plain distilled or with a tiny amount of dishsoap, depending if you need a bead of water, or coat of water to help regulate temperature spread. The water is easiest applied from a syringe.

  • @Gisleburt
    @Gisleburt 2 года назад +337

    Honestly found this "experience" highly relatable and I feel a lot better about how stressed I get doing this sort of thing.

    • @wilhaart5964
      @wilhaart5964 2 года назад +6

      Well the story there was 600$ job turned to be 600$ job with work. I still remember my first phone screen repair, 200$ phone with 40$ replacement screen. No patience or proper tools--> battery broken and screen bent. off with a new one...

    • @JohnnnyMojo
      @JohnnnyMojo 2 года назад +2

      Same here. I just recently replaced an LCD touch screen on a laptop and it was pure hell.

    • @GTFour
      @GTFour 2 года назад +1

      HA, yes exactly this! I've got better but I'm not sure I'd try myself on something this expensive.

  • @xNenshu
    @xNenshu 2 года назад +1502

    as someone who has experience micro soldering, this is painfully hilarious.

    • @instanoodles
      @instanoodles 2 года назад +84

      I had to look away, it hurt to watch.

    • @nemtudom5074
      @nemtudom5074 2 года назад +22

      Lets go with painful

    • @GabrielM01
      @GabrielM01 2 года назад +111

      We can see clearly Linus spends literally 0 hours per week watching micro soldering content in RUclips

    • @rafaeltogami
      @rafaeltogami 2 года назад +98

      If it’s any consolation, I got 0 experience in micro soldering and it was still painful to watch…

    • @MCCENTx2
      @MCCENTx2 2 года назад +14

      Even as someone with very little soldering experience, it's still painful

  • @SDogo
    @SDogo 2 года назад +363

    After working a lot of time disassembling things like this, maybe I can throw some tips.
    (PS: I hate soldering fpc connectors for smart phones screens)
    1- Check your mechanical process. You are clearly forcing the port to come out when is not ready. Apply a heck ton of flux, and let the hot air do his magic. The port will come out on his own, it's not necessary to pull it.
    Also. When soldering the connector back. If you are using solder paste, you first clean the pads, then put the new port over the solder (centered), and then apply hot air. In the case of using soldering wire... You clean the pads, then apply a bit of fresh solder to the pads, then put a heck ton of flux, and finally you put the new port centered to apply air (in this step you can use some tweezers to keep the port from flying away).
    2- Check your chemistry. Not every flux is equal and every variation of flux has his use. If you are expending too much time trying to remove the connector, your flux will burn away. Try a flux that can resist a bit more temperature. A good sign of the correct flux is that your connector comes out cleanly and leave behind a little puddle of flux without any marks on the board. Also, even when is not common, if the pcb to repair is old and has a bit of rust (the solder looks a lot dull), you can use an acid flux... just don't forget to clean that after soldering since acid flux tends to corrode small traces with time.
    3- Check your cleaning process. This is quite simple... the more clean that's your work surface, the easier that is to work. Put a lot of flux, remove the part, clean the pads, the remove all the residual flux. With a clean surface you can apply fresh flux or even paste. If your surface is clean, the solder will flow on his own.
    4- Check your soldering params. Even when the temptation to put your soldering iron to the max or the air gun to over 450C, you first need to know with what kind of material you are working. If you are trying to solder something that has plastic (most fpc and internal board connectors), you need to regulate the temperature in your station. The range depends on every station, but from experience, I can recomend something near to 325c to 350c max for hot air, and 225 max for soldering iron.

    • @siontheodorus1501
      @siontheodorus1501 2 года назад +29

      I would like to add some tips too.
      - Do it in a comfortable position so that your hand doesn't shake too much. Grab a comfortable chair where you can sit straight up just like using your PC or laptop.
      - When soldering small stuff on a PCB, buying a digital microscope or magnifying glass will significantly help in seeing those tiny traces and pads.

    • @standuporshutup
      @standuporshutup 2 года назад +4

      So 2 milipauals of flux then?

    • @KX36
      @KX36 2 года назад +2

      Never use acid flux on a PCB. Acid flux is for plumbing.

    • @SDogo
      @SDogo 2 года назад +1

      @@KX36 If you clean the flux afterwards, there's no problem.
      That thing is made to work with rusted stuff. I've recovered a lot of old boards using that kind of flux for desoldering and cleaning.

    • @SDogo
      @SDogo 2 года назад +8

      @@siontheodorus1501 I learned a little trick. When you have a bit of shaky hands, clap harder as you can a few times. Your hands will stop shaking... or at least the shaking will be reduced.
      Something that I didn't include in the post. Illumination is quite important if you're working with small parts.

  • @user-lp2op9uu1w
    @user-lp2op9uu1w 2 года назад +145

    Some tips:
    1: get some kind of magnifying device.
    2: Be EXTREMELY careful not to pull of the part until it is free floating, if you pull the PCB will break!
    3: Preheating is key, but for connectors like that, you can also heat the board from the other side or use heat just above the melting point.
    4: Make sure your hands are stabilized, if you have to hold the part and the weight of your arms you will be damaging stuff.
    5: Solder between the pads can be removed with the solder braid
    6: Practice on old boards and practice some more!
    Cheers!

  • @NorthridgeFix
    @NorthridgeFix 2 года назад +24

    The number of comments I received today about this video.....All I can say is, 12:20 Gone to the 9th dimension. You won't find it.

    • @Derpingtonshere
      @Derpingtonshere 2 года назад +4

      I just went through a ton of comments to find this and like it. I didn't have to, I just wanted to prove to myself that I can find it.

    • @oldyoldenough7327
      @oldyoldenough7327 2 года назад +3

      Enjoyed your reaction video! I didn't detect even a hint of ridicule whatsoever, which is a perfect demonstration of your incredibly humble nature.

    • @Fuzzy-88
      @Fuzzy-88 2 года назад +1

      This right here is reason enough why some of those 14.8mill subs need to come find our man Alex over @NorthridgeFix ✍️💨 💯

  • @pjmorgan
    @pjmorgan 2 года назад +621

    This is literally the greatest advert for Sony's Repair Services. I doubt they could've done better themselves.

    • @MrOneart
      @MrOneart 2 года назад +9

      True, shut up and take my money :D

    • @majstealth
      @majstealth 2 года назад +57

      @@MrOneart tbh, one could have done a bit more research and maybe thought about if it is a good idea to blow 500° hot air against plastic parts.....

    • @TheFutureIsEloi
      @TheFutureIsEloi 2 года назад +37

      It's a better advert for not buying sony in the first place (not that there's much better available from other manufacturers). This could have simply been made easier to service, or even using a more robust, high-quality, connector (I would expect both for the price of that camera).

    • @andrewszczplaylist
      @andrewszczplaylist 2 года назад +21

      @@TheFutureIsEloi It's an 7 years old camera, full hdmi was super rare in that time in non-pro cameras. Newer gen has full hdmi.

    • @ImTotallyTechy
      @ImTotallyTechy 2 года назад +43

      @@TheFutureIsEloi idk... Sony seems to have the most publicly available service manuals and replacement parts over other camera manufacturers. This would have been a relatively easy fix for someone with the skill set to do so. I'm all for right to repair-but I don't think that means that absolutely everyone should be able to perform every repair. We'd have to dumb down a lot of electronics to get that working.

  • @fffklan3986
    @fffklan3986 2 года назад +400

    As a Louis Rossman viewer and someone who has never soldered anything, this video makes you realize how incredible his work is

    • @bhuvangunessee
      @bhuvangunessee 2 года назад +6

      and he makes it look so easy lol (from the few videos I've watched)

    • @1418golf
      @1418golf 2 года назад +9

      I was a Sony camera tech for 29 years...this is basic stuff really... let's see any tech these days do full mechanical repairs and tape alignments on a mini DV machine 😎

    • @bhuvangunessee
      @bhuvangunessee 2 года назад +11

      @@1418golf (assuming you're talking about this video and not Louis Rossman videos) nothing is basic until it is learnt. After a few years of experience, it might be basic to someone but to someone who's never done it it's not basic. Give someone who's never heated up food in a microwave oven or never seen one before some food to heat up, suddenly they have a not basic at all thing to do while nowadays it's common knowledge and very basic thing to do for an average person. But yes this is indeed basic, to tech repair people like Louis Rossman (mentioned in the video) and you. And if your comment was about Louis Rossman video, I've seen (including videos online) and met very few technicians that have engineer-based knowledge as him because they are so passionate while making even complex or complicated technician-based skills look so basic (again, I have only watched just a few of his videos though)

    • @1418golf
      @1418golf 2 года назад +3

      @@bhuvangunessee I guarantee a PC repairer can't fix a tape based camera mech....but there is no need to as tech has moved on..sadly alot of the repair techs who are any good have retired...can repair to component level.. understand transistor theory etc and still do it economically

    • @bhuvangunessee
      @bhuvangunessee 2 года назад +5

      @@1418golf They can if they learn how to; "they can't" is too negative to say. More will come, there always is.

  • @SolidSquid1
    @SolidSquid1 2 года назад +82

    Is it just me, or could 90% of Linus's frustration and problems have been solved by using a handy helper? Could even have applied the hot air gun to the back of the board and avoid burning the HDMI socket (and possibly avoid over heating the whole board by not doing it so many times)

    • @MyILoveMinecraft
      @MyILoveMinecraft 2 года назад +3

      True but let's be real when it's not your job, when do you have all correct tools for the job?

    • @roxxd4457
      @roxxd4457 2 года назад +6

      I was about to make the exact same comment, I was so frustrated to see him trying to remove the hdmi connector and was like "DAMN PLEASE USE A HANDY HELPER !" 😂 It's kinda cheap and so useful !

    • @NavyDood21
      @NavyDood21 Год назад +1

      @@MyILoveMinecraft The funny thing is, they have people there who its is probably literally their job to take care of things like this. He should have been more well prepared with the team he had, but he was still far more prepared than most people would be. And it showed how hard it was for him to do. My job for the past 10+ years has been focused a lot on small electronics repair and it took me plenty of time, and fucking things up, before I could routinely do solder work like that. I appreciate his "What do I have to lose" attitude to trying it, but I really struggle in understanding why people seem to think they are owed step by step instructions to repair something they are almost certainly not qualified enough for.

  • @petrolhead0387
    @petrolhead0387 2 года назад +322

    Tip for future repairs, if you want to attach a new connector that doesn't have much heat resistance, you can always use the hot air underneath the board.
    This allows the solder to melt and give you enough time to place the connector, with little chance of damaging it, provided there is no components on the other side that could be damaged by the heat.

    • @Blackwolfster
      @Blackwolfster 2 года назад +13

      Exactly what I did with a micro B socket. heat from the bottom side, and if there are parts near by use Kapton tape to keeps parts in place and shield some of the heat.

    • @1800Supreme
      @1800Supreme 2 года назад +5

      Yup heat from below. Find a vise or any way to hold the board, so that you can work with two hands. Also most important make sure to clear all through holes so that the part will lay down flush before you attempt to solder it. To clear the holes you need to fill them with leaded solder first before you can wick it up. Or use a solder sucker most under utilized soldering tool.

    • @JLeYang
      @JLeYang 2 года назад +3

      Another is they make this type of putty for putting on boards to direct the heat to only what needs to be heated too, use this putty to protect your board components during the heat up.

    • @Elemental-IT
      @Elemental-IT 2 года назад +3

      lots and lots for kapton tape and aluminum foil.

    • @LukewarmMiner
      @LukewarmMiner 2 года назад +2

      you can also use low melt leaded on the pads/anchors beforehand to help with removing the port the first. then turn down heat and go from bottom. kepton on the stuff you don’t want heat to get to

  • @michaelmarshall8425
    @michaelmarshall8425 2 года назад +211

    Suggestion, connect a micro hdmi extender to the camera so when continuasley unplugging and repliging, strain is put on the extender cable rather than the expensive to repair micro hdmi connector on the camera. When the extension cable fails, replace it with a new one, which is a lot cheaper than a motherboard replacement and will reduce wear on the camera.

    • @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r
      @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r 2 года назад +16

      I think that is a good suggestion. Still hard to keep the strain from the weight of the cable though. Maybe use a 3D pen to build a base at the end of the cable to stabilize it against the body of the camera and put the stress on the actual cable and not the connector, Then the only connection wear would be at the end of the adapter.

    • @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r
      @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r 2 года назад +6

      Also I wish they would go the way laptops did with barrel connectors and make them floating instead of fixed. That made them less likely to break the board connection from weight or accidental snags, and easier to swap if you did manage to break them.

    • @SimoBenziane
      @SimoBenziane 2 года назад +10

      @@D3M3NT3Dstrang3r There are HDMI clamps that get attached to the camera cage, that do exactly that.

    • @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r
      @D3M3NT3Dstrang3r 2 года назад +3

      @@SimoBenziane Interesting, I dont have the need for one so I have done no research on the matter. But Im glad somebody recognized the need.

    • @Reeferman420NL
      @Reeferman420NL 2 года назад +7

      @@SimoBenziane I would suggest a hdmi 90 degree adapter that stays on the camera. Fixing the plug/unplug wear and the stress caused by the cable being attached horizontally.

  • @gugubope21
    @gugubope21 2 года назад +142

    So, to anyone who might want to try something similar, remember: if you're changing a port, hot air is only for removal. To solder the new port on, use the iron and the iron only. Tack the legs in, then solder the pins. Also, if you bridge 2 pins together, just use some flux and touch them with the iron until it's good

    • @marcellkovacs5452
      @marcellkovacs5452 2 года назад +8

      I have virtually zero experience doing this, and even I was wondering why he didn’t just use the solder iron.

    • @TheMightyZwom
      @TheMightyZwom 2 года назад +14

      The part when they removed the entire port because of a bridge almost hurt me physically...

    • @pasikavecpruhovany7777
      @pasikavecpruhovany7777 2 года назад +5

      Can't just use soldering iron. microHDMI is pure evil and has 2 rows of pins. Best is to use hotplate for preheating + hot air. It's also possible to use just a small hotplate but that kind of heat may damage the board.

    • @pasikavecpruhovany7777
      @pasikavecpruhovany7777 2 года назад +4

      One tip, do not tack the legs in. Tack data pins. Easier to fix bad positioning that way.

    • @xzaz2
      @xzaz2 2 года назад +1

      Also anchor the board

  • @Daggz90
    @Daggz90 2 года назад +5

    Welcome to small-tech repairs Linus, lol 14:15 is typical behavior when working in a shop and under time pressure. Hilarious to watch how quickly he adopted the spirit of a real technician.
    Great stuff, keep it up. All the best!

  • @pjforde1978
    @pjforde1978 2 года назад +413

    Massive respect for LTT showing the reality of the build montage. Even more respect for modeling how mature people can deal with incredibly frustrating setbacks and ultimate failure without punching walls. Things don't always go according to plan. What your employees remember is how you dealt with it.

    • @priyanshupratik1566
      @priyanshupratik1566 2 года назад +6

      its all scripted bro they didnot use any sort of holding appratus or kapton tape to minimize heat damage.

    • @surft
      @surft 2 года назад +6

      @@priyanshupratik1566 true kapton tape should have been used and a microscope like how Rossmann does board repair.

    • @fredwupkensoppel8949
      @fredwupkensoppel8949 2 года назад +27

      @@priyanshupratik1566 Well, they are no experts, just dedicated fools.

    • @bocahdongo7769
      @bocahdongo7769 2 года назад +4

      @@fredwupkensoppel8949 I mean, most of us holding the camera are dedicated fools in the realm of electronic repairing

    • @pjforde1978
      @pjforde1978 2 года назад

      @@ts757arse Same! To me, this is what Right To Repair is all about; companies like Sony shouldn't be forced to publish instructables, but we should have the right to shame them for not doing it - or deliberately obfuscating information that could help. Part of the reason I bought a Framework laptop, for example, is that I hope I never have to take it apart, but I appreciate that they have my back if something goes wrong. Shame == voting with our dollars.
      I see no reason why Sony doesn't come out ahead if they make exploded diagrams with parts manifests available. Why force people to send back a whole camera when they could request part A57?

  • @therealexodus8462
    @therealexodus8462 2 года назад +28

    I love how any tech failures at LMG just turns into a video concept that honestly is some of my favorite videos of just Linus digging Into tech you don't normally get to see. Please keep posting videos like these!!

  • @krull1x
    @krull1x 2 года назад +77

    Little tip from someone who worked on PCBs for a long time. If you want to use a heat gun and want to minimize the possibility of desoldering or damaging other components you could put Kapton tape around the spot where you are working. 2 or 3 layers if you wanna be really safe. It's really heat resistant and protects the covered areas.

    • @darrenfalconer3267
      @darrenfalconer3267 2 года назад +6

      I'm no expert or even a beginner but like to watch people solder and this video had me freaking out, I knew something was missing but couldn't put my finger on it, it was the heat tape.

  • @TheBamaChad-W4CHD
    @TheBamaChad-W4CHD 2 года назад +37

    I have never felt a video so much. I always try to repair electronics and it rarely goes well. Especially the ribbon cables!

  • @cloudyview
    @cloudyview 2 года назад +245

    I know it's content that you were after, but I love that it went from $500 to fix in probably a week or two, to $600 + dozens of hours between filming and the actual attempts at repairs, along with weeks of waiting for parts and calibration 🤣

    • @provax4925
      @provax4925 2 года назад +18

      But you forgot the revenue they got basically for just torturing a broken product.

    • @IhsanSantoso
      @IhsanSantoso 2 года назад +3

      At least he get the content, i think ad revenue from this video will cover all cost that incured wkwkwk

    • @VanlockFR
      @VanlockFR 2 года назад +8

      Yes and it makes for very poor content imo. The conclusion of that video is really bad : you waste 20mn on a video where basically he shows how he wasted hundreds of man hours and $600+ just for "entertainment". Also just so that he's going to use that expensive camera for a bloody home streaming setup. LOL.
      very disappointed here.

    • @Renegade605
      @Renegade605 2 года назад +8

      This can absolutely be the reality, but it also holds value outside of ending up with a repaired device at the end.
      For example, I blew an engine in a car I had once. I sourced a new engine but the quotes I got for replacing it ran from $1000-2500. I decided I'd do it myself.
      It cost me $300 to rent space and tools to do the work, and a week of incredible frustration. I damaged a sensor on one of the wheels that cost me $250 to replace, and I made another mistake that ended up damaging the transmission which cost me another $600 to fix. In total I swapped the whole engine once, and the transmission came out and went back in another 3 times. I spent more than the cheapest quote I got, but I learned *a ton*. The first transmission swap took 19 hours, the second 12, and the last one only 6.
      A few years later when a different car needed a new clutch, I had the experience and confidence to do it myself in a day and saved $1000.
      I came out ahead, and it's really hard to put a price on the satisfaction of bringing something broken back to life with your own two hands.

    • @deokureta108
      @deokureta108 2 года назад

      @@provax4925 600$ but half of it is from the tools. next time you need to do that kind of repair you won't have to buy them again

  • @dabigbadwolf5081
    @dabigbadwolf5081 2 года назад +348

    Pro tip: put a mini-HDMI to HDMI adapter in the port, glue the heck out of it and use the Adapter as a port. Do this before the Mini HDMI port gets weak.

    • @cyrkielnetwork
      @cyrkielnetwork 2 года назад +42

      Just buy $10 adapter that you can screw to rig cage (they using it anyway) and you are done. But it's only a problem with older Sony cameras. Newer ones has standard HDMI ports.

    • @ahmetrefikeryilmaz4432
      @ahmetrefikeryilmaz4432 2 года назад +10

      we really need d-sub connectors. They are forgotten but not obsolete.

    • @MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
      @MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 2 года назад +17

      This is the wrong way to do it. You need to cut an HDMI cable off at one end and solder each wire in there to each of those tiny pads, and then glue the cable into the chassis with strain relief

    • @Jehty_
      @Jehty_ 2 года назад +1

      That's the solution I immediately thought of.
      I would also use some glue that can be easily removed if the adapter fails at some point.

    • @dh2032
      @dh2032 2 года назад

      @@cyrkielnetwork yes was space really that small not to put a full HDMI sized port even they made like 5mm bigger cover the larger plug size?

  • @thevaf2825
    @thevaf2825 2 года назад +116

    never E V E R apply any amount of force on a component you are desoldering as you may rip a pad. The idea is you melt the solder, not breaking it. It is a bit more difficult when components are also adhered into place or if there are thru-hole mounting tabs, but for most smd components if you feel it doesn't want to come out, then it's probably not reflown correctly yet.

    • @iamdmc
      @iamdmc 2 года назад +1

      yeah linus isn't really competent at much nowadays

    • @JohnSmith-ws7fq
      @JohnSmith-ws7fq 2 года назад

      ​@@rogerwilco99 Yep, ZD-915 here and wouldn't do without it.

  • @garrythomson8018
    @garrythomson8018 2 года назад +31

    This repair makes me feel better about some of my attempts! Thank you!

  • @bnelsey
    @bnelsey 2 года назад +257

    Should probably include "helping hands" to things that you will need, they really help when soldering stuff

    • @chrismitchell7494
      @chrismitchell7494 2 года назад +4

      come to think of it, I've never soldered away from a workbench with at least one other person nearby... I never thought about it before but we ask each other for small shit all the time.

    • @virtualpilgrim8645
      @virtualpilgrim8645 2 года назад +1

      I was thinking the exact same thing. I have Helping Hands. However, Helping Hands is a little bit lightweight, and you would have to tape it down to the table if you needed to apply any extra pressure.

    • @TypicalRiderPH
      @TypicalRiderPH 2 года назад +9

      A board holder is a better approach. They even included it in the video from another channel how to fix it (3:50). Sadly they never used it.

    • @Dadspicable
      @Dadspicable 2 года назад +7

      Yeah a board jig is inexpensive and insanely more helpful than helping hands but both are useful for their own reasons.

    • @Later_Nerd
      @Later_Nerd 2 года назад +1

      I prefer a pcb holder. I use one from Hakko but end up just using it as a weight 95% of the time and not how it's intended lmao. All that really matters is something to keep it in place so it does move while you're doing high precision work. High heat tape works in a pinch fine.

  • @PrinceWesterburg
    @PrinceWesterburg 2 года назад +49

    The 'external screen' is actually a data recorder giving 10bit and higer bit rate over the internal 8bit and compressed video.
    The answer is to use lighter cables as its only a short run. I found some coiled ones and cable tie them to camera cage.

    • @maddan.
      @maddan. 2 года назад +11

      Securing the cables so there is no load on the connector is the key.

    • @agenericaccount3935
      @agenericaccount3935 2 года назад +1

      @@maddan. Yeah, cable clamps and a cage to mount them on.

    • @purplepenguin43
      @purplepenguin43 2 года назад +3

      If the connector just stays attached all the time you can also hot glue it in place. Semi permanent and you can usually just peal the hot glue away if you need to take it off the camera.
      If it need to be plugged and unplugged a lot a 3d printed mount that supports the cable and attaches to the camera works a treat. Bonus points if you can design it so the mount stays on the camera and the cable slides straight in and out so you can’t stress the cable trying to put it in at an angle.

  • @Amazingdinosaurman
    @Amazingdinosaurman 2 года назад +31

    Quick tip: when trying to remove a component try not to lever it off at all, as that rns the ris of ripping up pads. Flood it with flux and wait till the solder is all wet before pulling it off!

  • @JFHeroux
    @JFHeroux 2 года назад +82

    ⚠ IMPORTANT TIP - All of this could have been avoided if the following setup had been used: A right-angle cable and... black hot glue. 😜 I kid you not. We use right angle mini-HDMI cables and then use a hot glue gun and build a sort of barrier around the connector. It takes about 15 seconds to glue the cable onto the camera, the black glue is more sticky and flexible than the basic kind but all of that can also be removed easily when needed. Most of the time though, you keep the camera in the rig with the cable attached to it. So the HDMI output is protected at all times when shooting. We don't break those ports anymore. 😎👍

    • @HeadsetHistorian
      @HeadsetHistorian 2 года назад +4

      Is the right angle cable like a female to male fullsize hdmi one so you can just plug in normal cables whenever? That would make a lot of sense tbh.

    • @JFHeroux
      @JFHeroux 2 года назад +9

      @@HeadsetHistorian Exactly. And once we glue it on with black hot glue, there's no breaking it. 10$ solution to a hundreds of dollars problem. ;)

    • @messylaura
      @messylaura 2 года назад +2

      i was thinking the same thing, just add an extension to the port so if anything breaks its a quick fix
      btw can you get a micro to full size adapter cable for the same purpose, to make an extended link

    • @CybertroninfiniteOfficial
      @CybertroninfiniteOfficial Год назад

      What does the black glue do to prevent damage

    • @swiftrealm
      @swiftrealm Год назад +4

      @@CybertroninfiniteOfficial It holds the cable in place so you don't remove it from the connector. You don't want to be straining the socket, that's how you damage your expensive camera's output.

  • @Infernogigas
    @Infernogigas 2 года назад +238

    As someone who does this kind of stuff daily, this was painful. Still enjoyed watching the struggle though.

    • @MoreOftenTopical
      @MoreOftenTopical 2 года назад +14

      Hats off to you. The amount of tiny parts there was stressing me out just WATCHING, I couldn't begin to imagine actually doing it on $1000+ equipment.

    • @ddgarage7025
      @ddgarage7025 2 года назад +5

      Every camera tech just cries inside... me included

    • @CubicIronPyrite
      @CubicIronPyrite 2 года назад +3

      @@ddgarage7025 Do techs actually use heat guns, or desoldering irons?

    • @crumpets2123
      @crumpets2123 2 года назад +2

      Ah yes, but we have all goofed at least once, and it made us better for it.

    • @LukewarmMiner
      @LukewarmMiner 2 года назад +4

      @@CubicIronPyrite work in console/handheld/phone repairs, hot air is common for ports, though i do it from behind connection and hit the anchors/pins with low melt solder first to help the port loosen sooner at lower temps to protect other components

  • @gordon_kwong
    @gordon_kwong 2 года назад +34

    The newest generation of Sony full frame cameras all use full size HDMI now. These cameras are amazingly small for how many components they contain.

  • @JohnTTA
    @JohnTTA 2 года назад +111

    "I tried to save money. I failed HARD." Me too, Linus, me too...

    • @TheRealEncy
      @TheRealEncy 2 года назад +3

      So Basically People Who Tried To Fix Apple Product lol.
      _( Press F To The Apple Macbook Charging Cable That My Dad Tried To Fix )_

    • @DignityDC
      @DignityDC 2 года назад

      Yep a

    • @BK_Ben_FTW
      @BK_Ben_FTW 2 года назад

      Title change gotcha

  • @MrSanemon
    @MrSanemon 2 года назад +3

    I absolutely loath working on small shit. The frustration shown here is so real, I also understand not wanting to throw shit away.

  • @MissingClara
    @MissingClara 2 года назад +142

    You don't need 430C, just lower it to like 350C and take it slower. Also, do a circular motion with the gun to make the heat more uniform. Going too fast will usually result in stuff like this where you melt the plastic.

    • @ccricers
      @ccricers 2 года назад +4

      I don't remember the last time Linus built a watercooled PC with hard tubing (or if he ever did). That would be one experience where learning how to properly and evenly heat plastic is important.

    • @ald3nt3
      @ald3nt3 2 года назад +6

      this, and also putting a bit of capton tape over it helps to spread heat evenly preventing the plastic from melting.
      IMHO i'd even ditch hot air soldering in those cases; the connector should be easily soldered by hand given enough flux and a microscope.

    • @overclock1993
      @overclock1993 2 года назад

      nah, you can only remove a solder joint when the soilder reaching its melting temperature. No mater you do it slow or fast. Manufatures use lead free soldering with high melting temperature. The only way you can remove it with less heat is using low melt soilder (content Bismuth) , mix it with the soldering joint using iron, then apply heat, cover a board with Al foil with you don't want to expose to heat. This video demonstrate a poorly skill and have no idea what to do will runing you think. Please don't do it. Practice it on something you dont care first, make some research.BTW You can easy repair ribbon cable just soilder a wire back.

    • @ald3nt3
      @ald3nt3 2 года назад +2

      @@GulfCoastGrit ah, crap, yeah, two rowed connector, then it's hot air time

    • @MissingClara
      @MissingClara 2 года назад +1

      @@overclock1993 I was not really expecting to find the confidently wrong internet person today, but in retrospect that was kind of granted when I posted this reply. What do you think is the melting temperature for this high temperature solder you talk about? (spoiler: the definition for high temperature solder in this applications is near universally accepted as solder with a melting point between 270 and 350... hummm I wonder why that number sounds so familiar, maybe I am not pulling stuff out of my ass unlike other people).

  • @myaccount__7269
    @myaccount__7269 2 года назад +138

    Why not use a micro hdmi coupler and keep it always connected to the camera ? Then you don’t have to wear out the port

    • @firefly2472
      @firefly2472 2 года назад +17

      Yupp. 5 dollar fix.

    • @charliebrownn6622
      @charliebrownn6622 2 года назад +4

      You are correct 👍, attached to a micro rig cage is a solid solution

    • @thewafen763
      @thewafen763 2 года назад +15

      The cable will still put weight on the coupler causing it to lever on the micro HDMI more. Also, it would be more annoying to rig the camera out because of the profile of the coupler. I suppose the levering part could be remedied by a 3d printed cable support or sum like that. What we need to do is stop supporting these companies and buying their new products

    • @stefan514
      @stefan514 2 года назад +12

      Because the guys at LTT aren't the brightest people sometimes 🤷🏼‍♂️

    • @mynameissang
      @mynameissang 2 года назад +3

      Hindsight is 20/20

  • @jacobmussi1684
    @jacobmussi1684 2 года назад +69

    There is nothing more valuable than the chance to learn from other peoples failures. Thank you so much for posting this process with all the bumps and bruises.
    I love the right to repair movement and will always advocate having a better understanding of your hardware and doing your own maintenance if possible. However I feel to many repair advocates skip over the fact that if you don't know what you're doing or aren't following the directions of someone who does, you can easily double any potential professional service bill or wind up needing to pay for a full replacement. Right to repair wont make everyone a skilled technician, but it will empower people to do the simple repairs that can double the lifespan of everyday items like phones and laptops.

    • @MarshallHoff
      @MarshallHoff 2 года назад

      Agree, and certain devices are just a thousand times harder to repair than others. I frequently repair smartphones, and advocate for right to repair on them. They are difficult to repair, but doable, I have personally done dozens and not broken a one. Even with multiple years of experience doing smartphone, laptop, desktop, iMac repair, I would NEVER touch a camera. I love photography and own multiple camera's, new and old, and I looked into repairing an old Canon AE1 film camera, and it is crazy. Mad respect for the people who repair cameras, because the way they are packed together with a million insanely fragile ribbon cables, its a nightmare.

    • @Razzlion
      @Razzlion 2 года назад

      @@MarshallHoff To be fair, alot of the difficulty is because they make stuff as horrible as possible to fix without patented tools..

    • @wayland7150
      @wayland7150 2 года назад

      We each saved several hundred $$$ watching Linus do this so we did not.

    • @siliconalleyelectronics187
      @siliconalleyelectronics187 2 года назад +1

      If I had a nickel for every ripped pad and burned PCB because someone thought it would be an easy fix...

    • @Poldovico
      @Poldovico 2 года назад

      No legislation could ever make technicians obsolete. Right to repair means you can bring your stuff to a technician you trust and get a fair price, instead of the manufacturers giving themselves a monopoly on repairing their own stuff and price gouging everyone.

  • @markmutti
    @markmutti 2 года назад +22

    Micro HDMI is the worst. I recommend getting a camera cage and clamping down an adapter (to actual, real HDMI) that just always lives with and in the camera.

    • @dustojnikhummer
      @dustojnikhummer 2 года назад

      miniHDMI is even worse than microHDMI

    • @joemonteithcinematography7477
      @joemonteithcinematography7477 2 года назад

      No miniHDMI is way better. Still not great but sits in-between microHDMI and full size HDMI in size.

    • @wheresvr6
      @wheresvr6 2 года назад +1

      Any hdmi is crap for professional use basically. It's a household connetor, it wasn't designed to withstand any proper amount of forces that occur to it when moving a camera even when we're talking about full-size hdmi. BNC is the way to go, but i get it that it's impractical for dslrs

    • @saltananda3227
      @saltananda3227 Год назад +1

      @@wheresvr6 I wish they kept the standard of being able to secure video cables with those 2 screws, like vga and dvi cables

    • @wheresvr6
      @wheresvr6 Год назад

      @@saltananda3227 yeah. Now that's basically what all these cable holders do

  • @justmf
    @justmf 2 года назад +244

    I love how he tried to save 500$ and ended up spending 600$ and lots of his time 😭

    • @craftmaster300
      @craftmaster300 2 года назад +8

      Plus all the man hours spent

    • @CRCinAU
      @CRCinAU 2 года назад +15

      .... but got content! :)

    • @iamdmc
      @iamdmc 2 года назад +1

      700

    • @nagasako7
      @nagasako7 2 года назад +19

      Sony tech was actually fair price lol

    • @fitybux4664
      @fitybux4664 2 года назад +1

      @@nagasako7 "And this video, is brought to you by Sony!" 😆
      (Even if they don't directly receive a check from Sony, they might receive some sort of good will, or free parts in the future...)

  • @Airbag888
    @Airbag888 2 года назад +56

    The part where Nick takes over is like a tech horror movie..
    Anyway, the real lesson is when you are quoted $ X for a job and you find the parts only cost $X/10 realise you are not factoring in your time/stress/high risk of failure and experience (whether formal or not) of the guy/company offering the repair service.

    • @Boardwoards
      @Boardwoards Год назад +3

      or that they don't bother with the stress and replace the whole board with another machine assembled one, maybe we should design more repairable or less fragile devices.

    • @mitchellmiller6644
      @mitchellmiller6644 Год назад

      depends on the company apple for example is notorious for quoting 750 to 1500$ repairs for a 5$ cap because they want you to say its not worth it and spend 1200 on a new macbook

  • @brandongers
    @brandongers 2 года назад +27

    As someone who had to tear down my A7III to replace the audio jack and in the process ruined my back screen, I feel your pain.

  • @bullettube9863
    @bullettube9863 2 года назад +5

    A friend of mine many years ago told me that a short extension for HDMI and USB ports will make the port last longer as you will not be applying pressure to the port when connecting and disconnecting it. Most short extensions are 3 ft or less and cost very little compared to the cost of repairing-replacing ports.

  • @jp-ny2pd
    @jp-ny2pd 2 года назад +30

    On removing the old connector you'd want to wait until you can just kind of tap the top of it and it wiggles before you start trying to remove it. I'd also recommend trying to gently tap it to the side when you think it's ready before lifting on it. If you got a pad stuck you're less likely to rip anything with a sheering force then a prying one. As far as the new port goes I'd have used solder paste and hand soldered the through-hole mounting pins to hold it in place before hand. I would have definitely been doing all this under a microscope or at least some sort of magnification to make sure the alignment is right. Other than that, this is just what gaining experience looks like. You took what you knew, tried to apply it, had some setbacks, and now you'll know more for next time.

  • @ZaPpaul
    @ZaPpaul 2 года назад +53

    I do SMD repair and watching Linus ripping up that port as he was heating it loose was painful viewing. That's a real easy way to rip off the pads/traces and then you have a whole different repair to endure.

    • @Cyber_Akuma
      @Cyber_Akuma 2 года назад +1

      Yeah, haven't done this kind of work.... yet, but I have been watching a lot of soldering, SMD, and repair videos as I want to learn. Was he really supposed to use the hot air rework station to try to put the new port on the board? I thought that's mostly to remove components and/or reflow, not attach them unless you have solder paste for SMD components.

    • @Nullmoose
      @Nullmoose 2 года назад +1

      Omg I posted the exact same comment the I decided to read what others were saying. I’m glad I found this one so I know another solder tech is sharing my pain right now haha!

    • @bocahdongo7769
      @bocahdongo7769 2 года назад

      @@Cyber_Akuma Try it,
      It's a legit pain for the first try

  • @PrecisionEngineeredJank
    @PrecisionEngineeredJank 2 года назад +9

    As a preventative measure. On a larger rig you can use a connector saver. This is just a super short extension cable. Only unplug the main cable, always leave the extension on, that way the wear acts on the easily replaceable extension. Of course this isn't perfect but it extends life of the main connector some. I use this concept on high volume tests systems that go through 40k insertions a year.

  • @bobski3333
    @bobski3333 2 года назад +2

    Connectors and hot air do not get along. Hot air is great for removing already-broken connectors, but a pain for installing new ones for all of the reasons Linus illustrated. The only time you want to use hot air for installation is if the component has terminals you can't reach with a soldering iron. Even then, you want to pre-heat the PCB to as close to the solder melt temperature as you can reasonably manage. Radiant (think toaster oven coils under the PCB) or convective (similar to the hot air station, but wide, slow moving and under the board) board heaters are common.
    If all the terminals are accessible (not sure if Linus' were), the good old soldering iron is the way to go. Bridging contacts is actually okay - add a little flux and clean off the extra solder with solder wick. The same capillary action that makes the wick work will keep solder between the terminal and PCB pad, assuming the terminal is flat against the pad. That means doing your best to clean off the pads before adding flux and placing the component. They can be tinned (solder colored) but should look completely flat. In this case, you don't add any solder or solder paste before placing the component - the flux already in the joint, a pre-heated PCB and the iron heat will let regular old wire-type solder flow into the joint in a heartbeat. Don't try to solder individual pins. Do 3 or 5 (or however many fit under your iron tip, which should be the largest you can physically use for the job BTW - better thermal transfer) terminals at a time, or even get a blob of solder on your iron tip and (gently) drag it down the row of terminals. With a little practice, the blob will heat up the contact and pad, flow some solder into the joint, then separate cleanly (assuming the flux hasn't all boiled off) as the blob moves on. Again, bridged terminals can be de-bridged with wick and still more flux.

  • @peter.s.3207
    @peter.s.3207 2 года назад +55

    If yo do more soldering of connectors like that I would definitely recommend hand-soldering rather than hot air for reattaching it. Solder the mechanical pins first, getting it aligned properly, then hand solder the data pins on and then remove the excess with a wick. It's much easier to get the connector aligned that way than trying to reflow the whole thing all at once without a proper oven / paste / hot plate.

    • @peter.s.3207
      @peter.s.3207 2 года назад +6

      Also when applying hot air to a board make sure to put kapton tape (or something else heat resistance) over the rest of the components on the board. Particularly important for plastic connector headers, leds, etc, as those like to melt when exposed to even slightly-to-high temps.

    • @anthonydiiorio
      @anthonydiiorio 2 года назад +9

      The connector used has a row of pins that are inaccessible behind another row of pins.

    • @VilmaHallikas
      @VilmaHallikas 2 года назад +12

      That particular connector had two rows of data pins, not gonna hand-solder those.

    • @peter.s.3207
      @peter.s.3207 2 года назад +1

      @@anthonydiiorio Oh interesting! After you pointed it out I re-watched and it does indeed. I've never encountered that before on leaded SMD components. That would definitely make this repair annoying without the proper equipment.

  • @Crimin4L
    @Crimin4L 2 года назад +45

    What did I learn from this video? Don't take my camera apart unless I have a team of paid professionals to clean up my mess. Thank you Linus for the valuable tech tip!

    • @RannonSi
      @RannonSi 2 года назад +3

      Better to learn it now than after you've opened up your camera! ;)

  • @thebrotherscurtin9827
    @thebrotherscurtin9827 2 года назад +29

    As a l3 electronics technician I highly recommend getting a set of helping hands. Also if solder bridges pins on the connector just flux it and use some wick to absorb the bridge

    • @unlink1649
      @unlink1649 Год назад

      Helping hands have so often damaged PCBs of mine with their strong clamps and sharp teeth.

    • @thebrotherscurtin9827
      @thebrotherscurtin9827 Год назад +1

      @unlink use ones with rubberized teeth and only hold by pcb edges

  • @nathantron
    @nathantron 2 года назад +4

    I love Brandons reactions as he takes it apart, gasps of terror on his precious camera.

  • @avrel820
    @avrel820 2 года назад +59

    You should use no clean flux for a job like that it's the best. Soldering paste should be perfect once you have finished use isopropyl alcohol to clean up the PCB with a soft toothbrush

    • @sd8213
      @sd8213 2 года назад

      Hes a professional he dosnt need your help

    • @keithdenzelroque2072
      @keithdenzelroque2072 2 года назад

      @@sd8213 if the comment was also a professional then you wouldn’t know what the fuck you should do then lmao

    • @muazqamar
      @muazqamar 2 года назад +3

      @@sd8213 He clearly isn't. But he has a team around him that is

    • @sd8213
      @sd8213 2 года назад

      @@muazqamar do you have a youtube channel with 10 mill Subaru's

    • @muazqamar
      @muazqamar 2 года назад +1

      @@sd8213 I don't think anyone has a RUclips channel with 10 million Subarus, brother

  • @deathventure
    @deathventure 2 года назад +20

    This was painful. Tip for soldering pins like that. Clean the pads with the wick and flux. Then clean the area with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure it's all clean. Don't bother with the solder paste. Flux the pads again, load the iron with some solder and load the pads that way. The flux will prevent the solder from bridging if done correctly. Clean the area again with isopropyl alcohol. Use some copper tape, kapton tape, or high temp tape and block the area around the connector. Flux the pads well and lay the connector down on the pads. Take the temp of the heat gun down slightly so it won't kill the plastic of the connector. Also, turn down the fan intensity of it. Try to keep the heat on the pins and pads more than the connector itself. Be patient and keep the heat moving back and forth. It'll take a little bit but you should start seeing the solder melt. Don't get excited and take the heat off yet. Keep moving it around until all the solder is completely molten on pins and the grounds. After that, pull the heat away and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to cool down.

    • @EdHayes3
      @EdHayes3 2 года назад +3

      Ya, that temp on the hot air was very high

  • @Hiwired96
    @Hiwired96 2 года назад +14

    This is how I felt repairing my laptop's usb daughterboard. Halfway through you really start having a breakdown, and wished you had just brought it to a repair center. However, when it all works out in the end it feels very satisfying!

  • @yo-xe1ps
    @yo-xe1ps 2 года назад

    15:06 can't stop rewinding to that insertion. So satisfying.

  • @IntoxiKaded
    @IntoxiKaded 2 года назад +33

    I do this stuff everyday and watching this reminded me of all the stuff I broke. You learn a lot from messing up but it sucks more when it's a customers device :(

    • @dewaldsteyn1306
      @dewaldsteyn1306 3 месяца назад

      Well lets just hope the costumer isnt a karen😂

  • @Minicraftiano
    @Minicraftiano 2 года назад +90

    Linus: Complains about the plastic from the port being melt
    Also Linus: Proceeds to use a bad quality hot air station at 487 degrees (10:16)

    • @LanteanStargater
      @LanteanStargater 2 года назад +2

      It's only 250º C

    • @MrSgtBlade
      @MrSgtBlade 2 года назад +2

      I've been using the exact same one for many years now and it works great. My recommended temperature for most situations is 350 degrees (Celsius)

    • @woopsserg
      @woopsserg 2 года назад

      It's Canada, not US. Normally they use Celsius, not Fahrenheit.

    • @xaytana
      @xaytana 2 года назад +3

      @@LanteanStargater No, these display celsius, just as the vast majority of lab equipment does.

  • @the_queen_fisher
    @the_queen_fisher 2 года назад +13

    This is one Linus' most relatable videos yet for me. I've had 2 pcbs with broken usbc connectors and ripped pads that I've been trying to repair. I've never been so irritated in my life. Where's Nicolas?

  • @Relaxitsonlyacomment
    @Relaxitsonlyacomment 2 года назад +32

    So essentially, you spent more money by trying to save money by fixing it yourself, and then breaking it and having to pay more money to get it fixed

    • @ubesaaa
      @ubesaaa 2 года назад +1

      I spent €200 on repair equipment and repaired multiple smartphones with it. I have saved over €200 in professional repairs and am now able to keep doing this. I enjoy repairing things and will save money in the future now.
      I think that trying to repair your own stuff is amazing and should be encouraged, but it should be done while well informed.

    • @youuuuuuuuuuutube
      @youuuuuuuuuuutube 2 года назад +1

      But he acquired valuable - may I say priceless - knowledge, in the process. So it was absolutely worth it.

    • @saltananda3227
      @saltananda3227 Год назад +2

      @@youuuuuuuuuuutube Yeah but this is Linus, the guy most known for his knack of breaking electronics. "So what we have here is a quantum comput- oops I dropped it"

  • @ChodaBoyUSA
    @ChodaBoyUSA 2 года назад +39

    It is impressive watching Nick C. work on something so small and delicate with his huge bear paws. You should highlight more of his skills.

    • @agc2801
      @agc2801 2 года назад +5

      😂 use him in the first place, would have saved a lot of money, still appreciate the average joe approach I’ve been there.

  • @myrealusername2193
    @myrealusername2193 2 года назад +34

    I’ve also worked on a camera recently (sand in the lens assembly unfortunately) and OML is it insanely hard compared to even an iPhone. While stuff isn’t glued down, there are so many more tiny ribbon cables and layers of screws all going around to different places.
    Could also be the fact that I’m much more used to taking apart smartphones and similar devices but damn does it feel really different.

    • @Heightren
      @Heightren 2 года назад

      I'm also trying one and there's a spring I can't get right

    • @phuzz00
      @phuzz00 2 года назад

      My limit is laptops. After seeing this, I am never going to volunteer to work on a camera.

    • @Graine01
      @Graine01 2 года назад +5

      That is why repair costs a ton, you pay for a person not to fuck it up. 99+% of customers are not like linus who can write off 3+k loss because if they fuck it up they will make more from the video.

    • @myrealusername2193
      @myrealusername2193 2 года назад +3

      @@phuzz00 I would say phones are a bit harder than laptops simply because of a lot of components being bigger/sturdier. Cameras though are on another level of delicate.

  • @Neoxon619
    @Neoxon619 2 года назад +140

    Can’t USB4 2.0 (god, I hate that name) with USB-C pretty much eliminate the need for Micro HDMI? Hell, it could probably replace DisplayPort given the 80Gbps transfer speeds.

    • @MrD0r1an
      @MrD0r1an 2 года назад +43

      That is already possible with normal USB-C via the HDMI alt mode. It simply uses the USB lanes as HDMI lanes. This works because both formats use 4 twisted pairs.

    • @MaxRovensky
      @MaxRovensky 2 года назад +4

      It’s usually a matter of workflow
      I haven’t really seen a compact type-c to HDMI cable I can run from my Sony to my Atomos
      HDMI is standard on cameras and tons of equipment are already designed for it
      Would be nice tho

    • @Mindbulletz
      @Mindbulletz 2 года назад +9

      Wait, they really went USB 420?

    • @Neoxon619
      @Neoxon619 2 года назад +2

      @@MrD0r1an True, but I thought previous USB standards had to make some sort of compromise because they couldn’t either match or surpass existing HDMI &/or DisplayPort standards.

    • @sunspot42
      @sunspot42 2 года назад

      @@Mindbulletz it’s dope!!!

  • @olimpather
    @olimpather 2 года назад +1

    7:09 the moment where he pointed at the wrong port is where everything is going downhill...

  • @iamaromalms24
    @iamaromalms24 2 года назад +8

    8:26 Linus actually heated the other side of the board probably the capacitor/LED and other small transistors, that could be reason why the board actually powered off during the boot.

  • @vivekvs1992
    @vivekvs1992 2 года назад +10

    This reminds me of the days when I open up kitchen appliances to "fix" them and just leave behind a box of parts that just don't fit together afterwards

  • @tiavor
    @tiavor 2 года назад +31

    I already thought in the middle of the soldering attempts: "if your goal is to toast the board, you've done well"
    usually you don't use the heat gun to solder connectors, only the solder iron (if possible)

    • @pasikavecpruhovany7777
      @pasikavecpruhovany7777 2 года назад +3

      This one is extra painful - two rows of pins. Preheating with the brick + heatgun set at lower temperature could have worked.

    • @ps3customgamer
      @ps3customgamer 2 года назад

      @@pasikavecpruhovany7777 did you notice temperatures of the hot air

  • @ributsuria
    @ributsuria 2 года назад +1

    Kudos to Nick for the attempt of "un~linusing" the camera👍

  • @KingKool2099
    @KingKool2099 2 года назад +11

    "They wanted five hundred to fix it!"
    (Four hundred dollars for a new board and two hundred dollars for calibration)
    "Fixed!"
    Good old Linus.

    • @cyrkielnetwork
      @cyrkielnetwork 2 года назад +3

      Plus apporox 10h+ of Linus and others work (not inculudig camera operators etc. thier work was to made video, not repair camera)

  • @slartibartfasttynsol420
    @slartibartfasttynsol420 2 года назад +39

    This does look like a horrible board to rework, but a couple of suggestions for future repair efforts:
    1) Boards often have big copper power plains, either visible or on an internal layer. Preheat the whole board (not all the way to reflow temps) to make desoldering with the hot air soldering station easier/less damaging. And turn the air flow down relatively slow.
    2) Once the old component is removed, clean up with flux and wick until the pads are completely free of solder.
    3) Solder paste - ideally with a stencil for the component, but with careful freehand alternatively. Then place the component, preheat the board as before and hot air (at low air flow rate) to melt the paste.
    4) Post repair cleanup with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and a soft toothbrush. Flux is generally corrosive, so you want to get rid of it. With no-clean flux this is less critical, but it can still gum up connectors. I normally leave the board completely immersed for a while, and then rinse with clean IPA.
    Note, IPA will dry out your skin, wear gloves. It's also very flammable, and evaporates quickly so you should make sure to have good ventilation.
    5) For ribbon cable replacement (and removal) I suggest tweezers.(I.e. www.ebay.com/itm/192762181131?hash=item2ce185760b:g:CugAAOSwu3ZcGOOG (no affiliation))
    And for the love of god get ESD grounding straps, table mat (and ground it). Even if it works just after the repair, ESD damage can result in 'walking wounded' boards that'll fail after a short time, or worse have weird behavior. I'm a FW engineer, and I have spent a month trying to solve a FW bug that turned out to be a half dead board.

    • @SAFbikes
      @SAFbikes 2 года назад

      Any suggestions on a decent hot air station that won’t break the bank for a beginner? I got a bag full of old boards waiting to be messed with.. even a full VX2000 my buddy smashed

    • @ne_nravitsa
      @ne_nravitsa 2 года назад

      I had the same thoughts while watching the video
      Thumbs up for you buddy

    • @alexatkin
      @alexatkin 2 года назад

      This is what annoyed me about the "Can static kill your PC video". They completely glossed the fact that its not that ESD will immediately kill your PC, it can degrade components so they fail sooner, it could be days, it could be years.

    • @slartibartfasttynsol420
      @slartibartfasttynsol420 2 года назад

      @@SAFbikes I use a cheap Tenma unit with a built in soldering iron - I don't think they make the model I have any more. I'd suggest getting one without the soldering iron - I have a Hakko soldering iron which has much better power and temperature regulation.

  • @perkulant4629
    @perkulant4629 2 года назад +7

    It's easier if you apply solder (like you did) in prep, then flux (like you did). Then place component in place, hold it down with tweezers then apply heat with lower airflow.
    You feel the component slot into place while applying the gentle pressure.

  • @MrClimberdave
    @MrClimberdave 2 года назад

    At 14:16 I just started to laugh and laugh because I've been there sooooooo many times while repairing small things. You're so pissed that you want to throw it, but you're so close that you can't stop!

  • @nathanmiller1456
    @nathanmiller1456 2 года назад +18

    I love this kind of exploratory repair content. More repair, engineering, and electronics stuff please! You've got the staff to come up with some killer projects.

  • @jerelima
    @jerelima 2 года назад +20

    First mistake: Not using a microscope
    Second one: Dind't use something to hold the board, and them start the work....
    And the list continues ...

    • @Alucard-gt1zf
      @Alucard-gt1zf 2 года назад +2

      Wow its almost like he's never done this before

    • @pieterrossouw8596
      @pieterrossouw8596 2 года назад +2

      More professional = less views.
      Linus figured that out ages ago

    • @Beregorn88
      @Beregorn88 2 года назад

      First mistake was letting Linus anywhere near to the camera...

    • @mr.transposon5017
      @mr.transposon5017 2 года назад

      Even a magnifying glass would have sufficed

  • @me0262
    @me0262 2 года назад +4

    Yes, keep in mind when you're trying to do repairs like this on your own, that even with the proper tools you may end up making things worse. I learned this when replacing a USB-C 2.0 port on a tablet, where I broke the MicroSD port on the board while taking it apart, and ended up also having to replace that port as well, because it was needed.
    I have a couple of non-working PS3 3D TVs, one where someone tried to affect repairs on his own, and ended up lifting some pads off the U4 EEPROM, and blowing off some 0402 resistors. I also have a Pioneer LaserActive Sega PAC that while it was working before, after replacing the capacitors, stopped functioning.
    Know that a lot of these repairs are complex, tedious, and require a lot of patience, good (and proper) gear, and experience, and in non-professional hands you may pay for this in spades.

  • @DamnThisAllNow
    @DamnThisAllNow 2 года назад +5

    As someone who broke the connector on his drawing tablet i find this whole experience highly relatable, although you were supposed to use heat resistant tape around the area to reduce the chance of damaging the surrounding components, it might still have happened anyways as i can attest...

  • @marcberm
    @marcberm 2 года назад +39

    Seems that Linus only proved that repair work is more than the sum of the value of repair parts. Labor equals time and effort, which is also worth money.

    • @riomisterio6665
      @riomisterio6665 2 года назад +1

      Yup, but a repair work also shouldn't always cost as much as replacing with new stuff

    • @chanchan05
      @chanchan05 2 года назад +2

      And knowledge, which either comes from a training course or breaking enough stuff that you know what to not break.

    • @marcberm
      @marcberm 2 года назад +1

      @@riomisterio6665 Repair cost should be proportional to the effort and skill involved, and it often is. Sometimes things do legitimately cost a significant chunk of the replacement cost just to repair, because either the parts are expensive or the labor is intense or both. It generally bothers me to see a professional's work in any trade be devalued by consumers who have no idea. It's like the folks who think the pawn shop is going to buy their item for expected retail, or that an electrician is going to come swap their light fixture for barely more than the cost of the fixture itself. To be clear I'm not saying I think you feel or think that way, just a tangent about a thing that gets me riled up lol.

  • @hardwarerepair200
    @hardwarerepair200 2 года назад +4

    This is my favorite repair video so far.
    Instead of a pro repairman making things look easy, it shows all the real difficulties in DIY fix.
    Sometimes the journey itself is more valuable than the outcome.

    • @TheHobohobbit
      @TheHobohobbit 2 года назад

      This doesn't actually show any 'real' difficulties, what this does show is what happens when you completely ignore all of the advice and tips that even a first year tech can give you.

  • @Manofvideos292
    @Manofvideos292 2 года назад +5

    I'm always trying to fix stupid little things like this. It's nice to see Linus having as much trouble as I do. Makes me feel somewhat normal.

  • @nic.h
    @nic.h 2 года назад +2

    Plugging a cable into the connector while trying to place it can help. Gives you decent control compared to the tweezers and helps to act as a heatsink to remove some of that heat building up on the part.
    I usually do this for XT30/60 plugs that I use in quadcopters as it keeps the pins aligned correctly, and reduce the chances of heat damage.

    • @Reploidx9
      @Reploidx9 Год назад +1

      II was wondering when I'd find a comment mentioning this. This is exactly what I do, the amount of stress it helps mitigate is nuts

  • @Nevermind-ls4wp
    @Nevermind-ls4wp 2 года назад +6

    I'd hot glue a short microhdmi extender to the camera and just use that. When that inevitably breaks, you just replace the extender, hot glue comes right off with ipa.

  • @jameslamb7197
    @jameslamb7197 2 года назад +5

    Linus: I'm scared of breaking anything. I get really nervous when working on things like this, I don't want to break it.
    Also Linus: smashes everything with a screwdriver.

  • @ch_dn
    @ch_dn 2 года назад +187

    I tell ya, these videos are actually doing more to support why these professional and expensive repairs services are justified lmao

    • @simpson6700
      @simpson6700 2 года назад +49

      right to repair doesn't just mean that you should be able to repair them, but that smaller repair shops get access to schematics, tools and replacement parts to cost effectively fix your electronics.

    • @nic.h
      @nic.h 2 года назад +5

      @@simpson6700 If I'm confident enough to do the work myself and willing to take the risk of screwing it up, why should I be forced to use a repair shop? The parts and information should be freely available for anyone wanting to do the repairs.

    • @simpson6700
      @simpson6700 2 года назад +12

      @@nic.h i never said you shouldn't have access to the same tools, information and parts.

    • @nic.h
      @nic.h 2 года назад +3

      @@simpson6700 I took your first sentence to be implying that. I.e. "right to repair didn't just mean that you should be able to repair them...". Apologies if the implication I took from that was incorrect.

    • @simpson6700
      @simpson6700 2 года назад +6

      @@nic.h i meant to say that while self repair is a big factor in right to repair, it's not the only one.

  • @fex_sal
    @fex_sal 2 года назад +2

    I am a do it yourself guy when something breaks and on my own experience, I always end up breaking up something inside small gadgets such as cameras, phones, computers when trying to fix them. There's always a ribbon cable that breaks, or connector that gets damaged, so I can relate to this video. My advise is, if the broken gadget does not work at all, and the possible fix is inexpensive, go ahead, but learn when to stop before becomes more expensive than buying the item you are trying to fix new.

  • @alexanderbonnot
    @alexanderbonnot 2 года назад +13

    As an IPC trainer, I think this kind of video is my favorite. Nice to see many of the struggles and remedies aren't edited out.

    • @Lauren_C
      @Lauren_C 2 года назад +1

      As someone that was trained with basically a “Here’s what we want, figure it out.”, this video is totally relatable.
      SMT was pretty easy for me, owing to watching tons of Louis Rossmann, but soldering to plated housings is pain…

  • @josephgood2704
    @josephgood2704 2 года назад +4

    I love this. Lol it makes me appreciate channels that do this stuff nonstop so much more. They always have quick highlights of doing it perfectly. I guess nobody is good at doing stuff the first time.

  • @pqfamilyadventures
    @pqfamilyadventures 2 года назад +28

    I think one of his tools should be a magnifying glass. They have always been super helpful for me with that kinda work

    • @rexsceleratorum1632
      @rexsceleratorum1632 2 года назад +3

      Cheap digital microscope rather

    • @TheHobohobbit
      @TheHobohobbit 2 года назад +1

      The worst part is that they mentioned having a microscope multiple times and still refused to use it for the actual repair.

  • @alexcrouse
    @alexcrouse 2 года назад +1

    I've been doing this for two decades, and honestly Linus, you are better at this than i expected. Not your first fix, but definitely not what you do for a day job. Good work!

    • @iddan1205
      @iddan1205 2 года назад

      So if someone wanted to get into this, how would they practice?

    • @alexcrouse
      @alexcrouse 2 года назад +1

      @@iddan1205 import tools from Amazon, old laptops/dvd players/whatever you won't miss if it dies, and practice. I have a low power microscope to help see the small details.

  • @eldibs
    @eldibs 2 года назад +6

    "...and, now you own all these tools." So many people underestimate that value. Good tools, if taken care of, will last you many years and projects, so you can essentially treat it like the cost of the tools is split between all the projects you use them on.

  • @karmic5783
    @karmic5783 2 года назад +45

    not gonna lie its insane how much content you guys put out and the quality of the videos

    • @evilkillerwhale7078
      @evilkillerwhale7078 2 года назад +3

      The production value of this video was good. The repair attempt and lack of knowledge about what they were doing was not here. The clickbait title and thumbnail on this one that shift blame towards Sony for what is clearly an LTT mistake is also disappointing.

  • @Nullmoose
    @Nullmoose 2 года назад +18

    Im a microsolder technician and watching Linus do almost everything the wrong way angers me to my core but its also pretty cool to see him branching out to things other than snapping together PCs. 10/10 on the effort and for sure the most entertaining thing ive seen all day. Practice makes perfect!

    • @0Asterite0
      @0Asterite0 2 года назад

      Who are the clowns he's hiring for the lab if they cant tell him the right way to repair an hdmi jack?

  • @zm7160
    @zm7160 2 года назад +2

    Use the iron before the heat gun, you can replace/dope the crappy lead free solder with low melting temp leaded solder.
    That way when you go in the heat gun you're dealing with lower melting point, the part comes off easier.
    Flux is still a must.

  • @dryii
    @dryii 2 года назад +23

    LTT: Hey, just buy some tools and you can fix things yourself for cheaper!
    Also LTT: Well, we ended up spending more money, and time, because the self repair failed.
    If the talented crew over there couldn't make the repair, I doubt most of the camera's owners would want to take the time and effort to try themselves.

    • @mitchellcontente
      @mitchellcontente 2 года назад

      And now we know to not even try thanks to this brave endeavor lol

    • @overbored617
      @overbored617 2 года назад +1

      well if talented crew is the first one to get his hands on that and linus not breaking the motherboard this wouldn't happen

  • @jcben
    @jcben 2 года назад +119

    Now you understand why Sony asks 500$ to repair it 😁
    Of course using such crappy connectors is a shame in the first place

    • @teslatrooper
      @teslatrooper 2 года назад +8

      With the right tools (like a clamp to hold the workpiece for one) this was a 10 minute repair job not counting disassembly.
      1: take the old connector off with hot air on full blast
      2: clean flux and solder from the board
      3: apply paste (they would have a stencil for that so you just align the pads and wipe a glob of paste over it, would've been $10 to order one for this video)
      4: place the new connector and reflow the corner of the board on a small hotplate ($90), cleanup with soldering iron if needed. done.

    • @Graine01
      @Graine01 2 года назад +12

      @@teslatrooper Yeah but as customer you have to pay for those tools and disasembly and work done of hte person.

    • @Graine01
      @Graine01 2 года назад +21

      @@teslatrooper Average customer will fuck it up and brick 3+k camera.
      Also those right tools are 1000s usd worth of tech.
      Look at rossman a single microscope for such work can cost 10+k.
      But hey peopel on the internet know better.

    • @DJ3thenew23
      @DJ3thenew23 2 года назад +16

      It's funny that this started as a right to repair video and ended as proof that sometimes its better to just let the company that made the thing fix the thing

    • @Gokul_Yt
      @Gokul_Yt 2 года назад

      @@teslatrooper there is a much better way to make this make the io board a daughter board just like sd card slot

  • @danielgawedzki3425
    @danielgawedzki3425 2 года назад +4

    Hey there, I work as a tech on Sony cameras. You're supposed to remove the top board before you remove or install the mainboard on almost any Sony camera. There's a screw in the front side of the battery compartment, which helps you take off the grip, which helps you take off the top board.

    • @xWood4000
      @xWood4000 2 года назад +1

      I like to know how my things are assembled so I've got some idea of how sony cameras can be disassembled. Your job is pretty impressive, high economic risk if you make any mistakes

    • @danielgawedzki3425
      @danielgawedzki3425 2 года назад

      @@xWood4000 you can say that. The largest issue I've encountered is finding broken cameras to use for parts.

  • @bruce-le-smith
    @bruce-le-smith 2 года назад +1

    this made me feel so much better about learning to do something hard and resiliency, thanks for sharing! great background video while I'm working on stuff