And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!" i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
i gotta say, you did a fantastic job on color coding these and making it colorblind friendly. Adding patterns or designs to colorcoding makes it easier for voloblind such as myself to differentiate parts. Great job!
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
@@ChadDidNothingWrong No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off. We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
So I went to a proper automotive school and still have the textbook that taught how things like this work, jesus this is so much easier to see/explain to someone than anything ever put in any of the textbooks! It's like the old "more spokes" video and similar from that era, just so much better laid out than 99% of stuff!!
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it. Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved. Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure. However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well. At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully. If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
In my amateur opinion I would say stabilizer bar or tie rod end. They’re components that are relatively rigid and static in comparison to other components and they seem to bear more resistance relative to their load capacity than the other components. This is completely a guess but it’s what I would assume based on minimal experience over the years with my own vehicles
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ??? Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment. Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod. If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner... The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
Link, because it moves more. If it had been the old style, that tie the sway bar to the lower control arm, it would last longer as it would just move up and down. I don't just mean the ones that were basically bushings either, my Talon had the ball-joint style, and a bunch of Honda from back in the day. Tie the swaybar to the strut and it twists left to right, up and down, does a lot of work that it doesn't have to do.
for being such a thick piece of metal i’ve seen a lot of control arms snapped in half from curbs. you’d thing the ball joint or sway bar would go first
A real hot tip: engineer your breaking points to a cheap and easy part. Find out on your platform which part is cheapest/and easiest to replace and reinforce everything around it, so you can make your maintenance more predictable. I know a lot of guys who run duralast gold axles/CV because its lifetime replacement and they can slip em out in minutes. Other fellas get cromoly steering links and the cheapest chinese knock off ends because it wont wreck the threads/can be replaced quick. For me, its my fuel pump until i set up a decent return line system.
Depends what you hit and at what angle. If yo go over really big bumps or potholes i think your strut/ strut mount takes that force... If you understeer around a corner and it a curb then definetley one of your control arms get most damaged ( even bent or snapped in half). Speaking from experience..
CONTROL ARMS = everything ! Ball joints upper and lower, bushes , Then CVS/drive shafts, wheel bearing ALL BALLJOINTS THEY TAKE A POUNDING (4X4 off roading )
That's a Hella long stabilizer link! Depending on material choice, the shock absorber. But failure of that wouldn't be too noticeable until the whole stabilizer link goes out Those 2 things will fight to the death. But once you pull the old parts off, 8d bet the stabilizer is less f'd than the shock absorber
Really appreciate the color coding but i can't help but imagine this car being at a show with underview mirrors and everyone passing by being highly concerned for the owner's aesthetic preferences 😅
@@opelservicekyiv ... Interesting part is... It's usually in the back of the back of the owner's manual. It tells you what parts go out first. From oil change intervals, to belts hoses... It's like a whole chapter... That nobody ever reads. Or they do read it... Realize how expensive their car is to maintain. And then go on a whole... Willful ignorance thing... Jumping from technician to technician to see which one of them's going to do it for fifty bucks. But I get it... Economic depression affects everyone equally. And the automotive industry would look a lot different... If they were honest upfront, and telling people how expensive these cars really are.$5,800 for a tail lamp? $2,500 for a water pump? 25 hours to change out an engine, that you knew was junk... When you put it in the truck. Yeah, put that s*** on the windshield of an F-150... See how long it sits in the lot. I know... Put it right on the windshield... HAS AN AIRBAG, THAT COULD KILL THE DRIVER, ON DEPLOYMENT. We'll see how fast people show up to write a loan on that...🤨
Thanks for taking the time to colour code those components, nice video!
Thanks a lot
I don't get what's going on.
@george746 Wow. The video is literally like a "Vechile Suspension At Work For Dunmies" 😂😂😂
@@804MRMAN I get the color part.
@@george746 What's the confusing part then?
Colour coding really does make learning easier 😮
**Colorblind people left the chat.**
Can you elucidate what you learnt? I'd be very interested... and I mean very
@@markholmspielvogel2881 "can you elucidate..." ☝🏽🤓
Why leave CV joint out ?, after all you put drives shaft in there
There’s no u in color piece
Of
Trash
Stabilizer bar true story
Stab link not bar
@@BleedingWhiteKnucklesdepends on which one goes out first. Could be the bar or the link
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckleswhy not both?
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckles my stabilizer bar broke in half one time
Those who know, know 😂
Insanely cool way to show someone the workings of a suspension system
Thank you
And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Thank you so much. Your comment gives motivation for the next videos 👍
stabalizer links will make noise but ball joints usually go first, then control arm bushings, then tie rods.
for reals. currently what ‘04 G35 coupe is going thru bouta hit it with a complete suspension overhaul hopefully sooner than later
On European cars, the bushings usually need to be replaced at 60-80k miles and balljoints replaced the next time the bushing is bad
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
Omg yes. I had to replace the whole front suspension in my 2011 silverado. It’s quite spacious in there when all the parts are out of the way😂
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
@@majoriix That feeling of renewal is very satisfying, more so because of knowing you'd seen to it yourself. Best wishes!
I’m in that boot now and it’s a frustrating process
damn the cameraman is hella bold
😀👍
The camera is mounted
Stop with these unoriginal idiot comments
@@03kwam65r/whoosh
@@03kwam65where is the man then?
Thankyou using colours to indicate those different parts soo clearly
salute dawg
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
I learned more from this than trying to learn from google, this is the simplest video to understand thank you
Thanks for the comment, I tried my best
Balljoints and sway bar links are the two things I change the most of and some tie rod ends as well
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
How much the going rate to swap out tie rod ends?
Inner as well?
Sway bars all the timeee
I own multiple commercial trucks and those always break first
@@leojohnwayne1422about $140 in parts for both sides of my jeep
Control arm bushings specifically in a BMW 🤣
I feel you 🤣🤣 my e90 been hungry for my wallet...
This facts just did mine shit was a bitch gotta do my rear trailing arm bushings too now on my e36
@@nitrosakebought a used e91 and the squeeking is killing me, 12 inch subs masks the sound just fine though😉
@kariej8972 The diff bushings are a bitch 🤣
Brake support bushing or thrust arm bushing 😊
In my RWD BA LTD, it's always the ball joints. Always....
But why. My guess was the tire rod with lateral g force from cornering
@@adrianrivera8425just a ford falcon thing
My 98 3500 Dodge Truck has taught me how to quickly change its ball joints. Weak ass piece of crap design.
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!"
i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
i gotta say, you did a fantastic job on color coding these and making it colorblind friendly. Adding patterns or designs to colorcoding makes it easier for voloblind such as myself to differentiate parts. Great job!
Thank you very much, it's a pleasure
Very well explained! ❤
Thanks for those efforts of color code😊
Thanks a lot 👍
Balljoints always, if you've ever replaced a balljoint you'll see how tiny those shafts are.
i bet ur shaft is tiny with the balls out of the way
One might consider the size to be quite normal.
@@9ZERO6 Some would even say above average.
Others would say size doesn't matter at all.
This is why God gave you 5 articulating fingers...and a fist for emergencies@@Mucky_Muck
Ball joints will definitely be the first to go bad
Is that the same thing if you have wheel spacers also?
@@Fordfocusstmk3250 I've heard especially if you have wheel spacers yes.
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@notbappo2435 ty dude
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
Usually a ball joint
This is a fwd so no ball joints in sight
@@AllTerpsNoBrakeswhat is the hub pivoting on then, thin air?
Don't comment on shit ya have no idea about bud go back to being a beast on ur ps3
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
@@AllTerpsNoBrakes 🤣🤣🤣🤣 all good man 👌
Great job coloring the material, learning shortvideos on RUclips are rare. To fully appreciate it, maybe make the legend last a bit longer? 🙂
Thank you, I will work in this direction 👍
What a great explanation and video! Thanks for going to the effort to colour-code them!
Thanks for watching the video
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
My driveshafts tend to break the fastest...
You aren't topping off your driveshaft fluid are you@@Laylander
@@ChadDidNothingWrong No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
You guys unequivocally have the best automotive shorts.
Thank you my friend. I am very pleased
with that driving, I'll say the fuel, and in a long time, the road looks smooth and neat
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off.
We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
Kudos to you guys. Also stay strong as always.
Thank you
Tie rod ends are usually first to go along with sway bar end links
Shock absorbers are the most victims to bumpy and rocky roads
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
*stabilizer bar has left the chat*
yeah they're usually the last on the list to fail
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
Thanks a lot
Simple! The first one of course!
I don't know which one but I definitely just have learn every single part names. Thanks!
Thank you, you are always welcome
In my case it was the lower control arm. Luckily it wasn't the section closer to the wheel, otherwise I might not have made it home.
Forgot the axle grease😂
Impressed with the colors and it's clean af!
Thanks a lot
Stabilizer! Always, remember the thinnest connection, and part always breaks.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
@@arva1kesyou barely drive them huh?
So I went to a proper automotive school and still have the textbook that taught how things like this work, jesus this is so much easier to see/explain to someone than anything ever put in any of the textbooks!
It's like the old "more spokes" video and similar from that era, just so much better laid out than 99% of stuff!!
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
"Everything I learned about cars I learned from a RUclips shorts video, sir!"
"...Welcome to Ford Motors, son! Glad to have you on board!"
Thank you very much, glad you liked it
The stabilizer link will wear out first, not much actually breaks.
Really?
On any car?
How many miles until you notice?
Try it in the uk roads, that one looks silky smooth
Indonesian roads would obliterate any car that dares test it's power😂
And UK roads won't?😂
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it.
Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved.
Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure.
However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well.
At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully.
If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
thank you for sharing your experience 👍👍👍
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
Swaybar links are usually first to go with potholes followed by the balljoints.
Thanks for the comment, great
Bottom ball joint or the spring or the shock absorber or the drop link all getting work driving over pot holes
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
Thanks a lot
Been replacing all of that shit
Sway bar links seem to go bad most often.
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
Nice layout and camera angles 👍, would make a good tool for explanation to customers
Thanks a lot
Stabilizer bar link
Sway bar link
Can everyone take a second to appreciate the camera placement and durability to hold in pace with no vibrations 🎉
thanks for the comment
Suspension rebuilds are my favorite. It's easy as cake and satisfying asf
Thank you
Driver legs😂😂
👍👍😀
Lol
The guy that was filming did a really good job
Thanks a lot
In my amateur opinion I would say stabilizer bar or tie rod end. They’re components that are relatively rigid and static in comparison to other components and they seem to bear more resistance relative to their load capacity than the other components. This is completely a guess but it’s what I would assume based on minimal experience over the years with my own vehicles
thank you for sharing your experience
The tire lmao
You aren't wrong acutally.
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ???
Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment.
Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod.
If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner...
The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
Yes thank you for colour graphics. Looks good
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it
Finally! An educational YT short video.
Thank you
Just learned some today thank u.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
Link, because it moves more. If it had been the old style, that tie the sway bar to the lower control arm, it would last longer as it would just move up and down.
I don't just mean the ones that were basically bushings either, my Talon had the ball-joint style, and a bunch of Honda from back in the day. Tie the swaybar to the strut and it twists left to right, up and down, does a lot of work that it doesn't have to do.
Thanks for the comment, great
The bushings and ball joints will go out before anything else. Basically anything w/ rubber in it
Thanks a lot
From the hundreds of cars I’ve serviced, it’s usually sway links or the tie rods first. It’s not 100% but most of the time
for being such a thick piece of metal i’ve seen a lot of control arms snapped in half from curbs. you’d thing the ball joint or sway bar would go first
Thanks for the comment
Straight line driving? Probably the shock/strut. Unless we’re including the bushings.
In that case, the stabilizer bar link might go sooner
Definitely stabilizer bar, happened to me more than once 😁
My vote is shocks, but that can vary based on specific shocks, suspension layout and so on. There's no single answer.
Thank you
Shock internals > ball joints > end link bushings > control arm bushings in general. Different orders for different makes and models though.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
the "steering rod" is also known as the inner tie rod if anyone's confused by that 🤷♂️
Thank you
It might just be me but I’ll probably learn more if it was colored like this. Makes everything clear
thanks for the comment
Sway bar links for sure. You’ll here them after time for sure
The one that decides to go first... duh.
I like how you explained how and why will any suspension component fall apart for driving in a street.
😂
Thanks a lot
That driving looked pretty tame. I say the swaybar links then ball joints.
ok, thank you
Starts with ball joints and control arm bushings and then the shocks go and then the hubs go, and then the axel goes.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
A real hot tip: engineer your breaking points to a cheap and easy part. Find out on your platform which part is cheapest/and easiest to replace and reinforce everything around it, so you can make your maintenance more predictable. I know a lot of guys who run duralast gold axles/CV because its lifetime replacement and they can slip em out in minutes. Other fellas get cromoly steering links and the cheapest chinese knock off ends because it wont wreck the threads/can be replaced quick. For me, its my fuel pump until i set up a decent return line system.
Amazing :) Great idea and great video! Thanks.
Thanks a lot
First time i saw underside of a Polo Harlequin!
That was an effective teaching aid. Wow!
Glad you liked this video
Tie rods love to leave the chat mid conversation😂
Link kit ,yellow rod from strut to sway bar.
Depends on when, where & what.(when the vehicle was manufactured, where the vehicle was located, what purpose & extremes was the vehicle subjected to)
thank you for sharing your experience, thanks for the comment
Ball joint, stab link, small and big bushing in suspension arm
thanks for the comment
I love stuff like this!
Thanks a lot
Sway bar links then front lower control arm w the ball joint
Thank you
Depends what you hit and at what angle. If yo go over really big bumps or potholes i think your strut/ strut mount takes that force... If you understeer around a corner and it a curb then definetley one of your control arms get most damaged ( even bent or snapped in half). Speaking from experience..
Thank you
Actually the shocl absorber is the spring
The "shock absorber" is the damper
CONTROL ARMS = everything !
Ball joints upper and lower, bushes ,
Then CVS/drive shafts, wheel bearing ALL BALLJOINTS THEY TAKE A POUNDING (4X4 off roading )
Stabilizer bar link and then the ball joints.
That's a Hella long stabilizer link! Depending on material choice, the shock absorber. But failure of that wouldn't be too noticeable until the whole stabilizer link goes out
Those 2 things will fight to the death. But once you pull the old parts off, 8d bet the stabilizer is less f'd than the shock absorber
Thanks a lot
Nice explanation thanks a lot 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for watching the video
some cars have really small sway bar end links that attach to the control arm instead of the strut.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
My suggestion to you is to actually leave the color code up for the duration of the clip
Thank you, I'll record this for future videos
Stab links are usually the weakest point in McPherson strut suspension.
None of the above. It’ll be the wheel bearing 😂
Stabilizer bar, and wouldn't be the first time I've seen such things bend the inner tie-rod
What is the name of fuck is defined as 'such driving'
Dude is just cruising over asphalt, not doing jumps, rallying, drifting or any kind of hooning
Nice vid. Helpful too
Thank you
With this type of smooth road?
Nothing
The uploader has never been to the UK for sure.😂
Yes, but I would love to visit 👍
Really appreciate the color coding but i can't help but imagine this car being at a show with underview mirrors and everyone passing by being highly concerned for the owner's aesthetic preferences 😅
Thank you
Check your vehicle manufacturer recommended service intervals.
That's gonna be the strut.
Usually around every 75k miles.
Thank you
@@opelservicekyiv ... Interesting part is... It's usually in the back of the back of the owner's manual. It tells you what parts go out first. From oil change intervals, to belts hoses... It's like a whole chapter... That nobody ever reads. Or they do read it... Realize how expensive their car is to maintain. And then go on a whole... Willful ignorance thing... Jumping from technician to technician to see which one of them's going to do it for fifty bucks. But I get it... Economic depression affects everyone equally. And the automotive industry would look a lot different... If they were honest upfront, and telling people how expensive these cars really are.$5,800 for a tail lamp? $2,500 for a water pump? 25 hours to change out an engine, that you knew was junk... When you put it in the truck.
Yeah, put that s*** on the windshield of an F-150... See how long it sits in the lot.
I know... Put it right on the windshield...
HAS AN AIRBAG, THAT COULD KILL THE DRIVER, ON DEPLOYMENT.
We'll see how fast people show up to write a loan on that...🤨
Control arm/ ball joins will always go first
outer tie rod and the ball joints. and sometimes the stabilizer too
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
That camera man is no clipping through the floor like it’s Minecraft in adventure mode
Thanks for the comment
Depends on the car. When i had my dodge charger i had alot of issues with my tie rods
Thanks for the comment