Your pricing rundown was great - sounds like how I got into making holsters! Thousands of dollars later, I can now make my own $80 holster! Your videos are always fun to watch.
This is why i love making - not necessarily that you can make it cheaper every time, its more of the adventure of making it yourself and potentially better than what you could purchase. Great video!
A man after my own heart. The "why would I buy it when I can make it" mentality is what makes working with your hands so satisfying. Congrats on getting an Ender 5. I have one in my collection of 3d printers and it's my go to printer.
Not only you provide a great solution, you also provide the info that drove you into that solution. Kudos and thank you, sir. Also, I always wondered why you didn't have a 3D printer. Like you, I started with a CNC router (Shapeoko 2) but about a year later realized a 3D printer would be a great compliment to the CNC router. Now I use the 3D printer more often than the CNC router.
Excellent video! Having both additive and subtractive manufacturing capabilities simply allows you to expand the types of projects you can make - no need to feel bad! 😜
...and the last few minutes are the ENTIRE point: I did this because A) I enjoy the challenge; B) I will get a custom-made better product than OTS; and C) I WILL BE SMARTER than I was before I started this project and will be able to apply that knowledge later. My grandfather built his house with nothing but hand tools. He mixed cement in a wheel barrow to pour the foundation, used a hand saw on all the 2x4's and 2x6's, was a framing square wizard and yet wanted better for his kids. So we went to school and learned "high falutin' things" like physics and biology. But I never forgot how to hammer a nail straight and hand sharpen a hand saw. Now I have a CNC and a great shop and do this as a hobby. But Mr. Moy, you not only spread the passion, to listen to you is an encyclopedia of what worked and what didn't to the thousandth...from my generation: "Dude, you rock!" Keep up the good work young man. We all could use a little what works and what doesn't from your experience. Thank you.
I laughed out loud at the end of the tally. My own 3D printer is sitting on the kitchen counter... still in the box waiting for assembly. The idea of printing my own brackets like you have done, is inspiring. Another great video Winston.
Nice video Winston! When making fixtures for boxes with draft angles, I've found that tapered spiral bits for 3D engraving (such as Amana Tools 3.6 degree 46286, or their 1 degree 46284) work really well. One more tip -- when hand drilling decent sized holes in aluminum, invest in a step bit. They don't grab and dig into the material like twist drills bits.
A 3D printer isn't a _replacement_ tool, it's an _additional_ tool! Yeah, you can do everything on a lathe that you can do on a mill, but that doesn't invalidate a mill!
Great vid. Not sure if this question has been asked... How is chip collection when milling aluminum? Can it be sucked up with a dust collector? Too heavy to be collected? I want to mill aluminum on my OneFinity CNC.
Do not use a PWM motor controller. They can be responsible for flicker as they actually flicker the light, hopefully at a frequency that the camera shutter ignores. Much better is to use an LED constant current driver. Many are adjustable. They provide constant current DC for truly flicker free operation.
i would first go with calibration and setting steps. out of the box (at least my ender 3 was 0.5-0.7mm off) you can easy setup this with Gcode start in your slicer. (eg. M92 X79.15 Y78.57 Z402.16) after that i would suggest using your tip dimensions to over size holes works fine with my printer now and cnc :)
I'm surprised you didn't go with constant current, which is sort of the LED's native currency vs PWM. From experience researching constant current drivers and buying a couple, it wasn't obvious/trivial. Is that why you went PWM, or are there other advantages?
apples and oranges here. constant current is how the power is supplied. PWM controls the release of that power to the LEDs. PWM 'opens the gate' for power to flow to the LEDs, then slams that gate. our eyes perceive the rapid on/off as a dimmed light.
there was no excuse to use PWM instead of voltage controlled dimming in this case. strips are already current limited and 12V rating means that most of DC-DC voltage converters of appropriate power rating would do the job.
Very Nice, what we expect from WInston! When I added my overhead LED array overhead in my enclosure I noticed a nasty shadow under my router and then had to add some focused LED spots on the side. A video on why you choose the 3D Printer you bought? I am getting close too to breaking down and buying a 3D Printer. Cheers
I originally included a segment on that in the video, but it felt too long, and you'd just be staring at a 3D printer while I talked. This was my reasoning: One, it’s super affordable. This machine cost $400. That’s bonkers. I really didn’t want to spend a ton of money on something I didn’t know how often I’d use. For that price, it’s an insane value. With a small amount of tweaking, you’ll get some shockingly okay quality prints. It won’t compete with a machine 4 or 5 times the cost, but it will produce very respectable results. Two, vs. the regular Ender 5, the Pro has Creality’s upgraded silent stepper driver board. It’s probably just me, but there’s just something about the sound of 3D printers chirping away in the background that I find objectionable. It’s worse than milling machines because 3D printers have such erratic trajectories and run for so long. (I am biased though...). And three, it has a box frame, which would be very easy to retrofit with wall panels. Printers with moving build platforms have different footprint requirements and tend to be pretty deep in the Y axis. Now, I don’t plan on printing any particularly exotic materials, so I don’t need the thermal stability afforded by an airtight enclosure. I have no intention of putting a roof over this printer. But, this printer will live in my garage, which is pretty dusty. Those walls will help keep wood shavings, aluminum chips, and grinding dust off the print bed, as well as block wind, since the garage can become a bit of a cyclone chamber with the doors open. My only thing against the 5-Pro is it’s cantilevered build platform. With heavier prints, and rapid movements, you can get a bit of static deflection and vibration at the front. The 5 Plus fixes this. But I didn’t have the room for the Ender 5 Plus and it doesn't come standard with the silent stepper driver board, so the Pro model was what I settled on.
Instead of triangles, it would be interesting to machine heatsink fins. Wavy or zig-zag fins could balance rigidity and cooling, all while making sure people know you have a CNC
FYI I am NASA certified solderer (1993) for micro miniature and multiplayer lay circuit board assemblies with x40 microscope. I thoroughly enjoyed the excavation of large 2'x2' or 3'x3' multiplayer CB
Tighten and lossen collets with two wrenches. It cancels out the sideways force and let's you put pure torque into the collet. Then zero off something that doesn't change between operations, like the wasteboard. Though if you have a BitSetter or tool length probe this doesn't matter
I did go the other way. Got a 3d printer first and love it. CNC is nice but I think I will use my 3d printer more often than the Cnc. One project I’m doing right now is 3d printing a part and use the Cnc for final touch ups.
Another excellent video. But you could slow down a bit Winston, you give so much information that it’s very hard to keep up. That said, I’m a fan and will continue to watch and probably rewatch, all that you offer. Keep safe, keep well. Best wishes.
It's nice to combine manufacturing processes. 3D printing with CNC is a killer DIY combo. Hope to see more of these.
Your pricing rundown was great - sounds like how I got into making holsters! Thousands of dollars later, I can now make my own $80 holster! Your videos are always fun to watch.
Thanks for the video Winston. Making is making. It does not matter if you are adding or taking away. Or even both on the same piece.
This is why i love making - not necessarily that you can make it cheaper every time, its more of the adventure of making it yourself and potentially better than what you could purchase. Great video!
A man after my own heart. The "why would I buy it when I can make it" mentality is what makes working with your hands so satisfying. Congrats on getting an Ender 5. I have one in my collection of 3d printers and it's my go to printer.
subtractive manufacturing master race!!
I have learned something from each of your videos. Thank you.
Not only you provide a great solution, you also provide the info that drove you into that solution.
Kudos and thank you, sir.
Also, I always wondered why you didn't have a 3D printer. Like you, I started with a CNC router (Shapeoko 2) but about a year later realized a 3D printer would be a great compliment to the CNC router. Now I use the 3D printer more often than the CNC router.
Excellent video! Having both additive and subtractive manufacturing capabilities simply allows you to expand the types of projects you can make - no need to feel bad! 😜
Good tip placing the supply connections in the middle.
...and the last few minutes are the ENTIRE point: I did this because A) I enjoy the challenge; B) I will get a custom-made better product than OTS; and C) I WILL BE SMARTER than I was before I started this project and will be able to apply that knowledge later. My grandfather built his house with nothing but hand tools. He mixed cement in a wheel barrow to pour the foundation, used a hand saw on all the 2x4's and 2x6's, was a framing square wizard and yet wanted better for his kids. So we went to school and learned "high falutin' things" like physics and biology. But I never forgot how to hammer a nail straight and hand sharpen a hand saw. Now I have a CNC and a great shop and do this as a hobby. But Mr. Moy, you not only spread the passion, to listen to you is an encyclopedia of what worked and what didn't to the thousandth...from my generation: "Dude, you rock!"
Keep up the good work young man. We all could use a little what works and what doesn't from your experience. Thank you.
I don't mind some 3d printing in this channel... it just *"adds"* to the content!
I laughed out loud at the end of the tally. My own 3D printer is sitting on the kitchen counter... still in the box waiting for assembly. The idea of printing my own brackets like you have done, is inspiring. Another great video Winston.
Nice video Winston! When making fixtures for boxes with draft angles, I've found that tapered spiral bits for 3D engraving (such as Amana Tools 3.6 degree 46286, or their 1 degree 46284) work really well. One more tip -- when hand drilling decent sized holes in aluminum, invest in a step bit. They don't grab and dig into the material like twist drills bits.
A 3D printer isn't a _replacement_ tool, it's an _additional_ tool! Yeah, you can do everything on a lathe that you can do on a mill, but that doesn't invalidate a mill!
Great vid. Not sure if this question has been asked...
How is chip collection when milling aluminum?
Can it be sucked up with a dust collector? Too heavy to be collected?
I want to mill aluminum on my OneFinity CNC.
Great video, awesome detail and instructions. So happy you got over the 3D printer hump, you won't regret it. : ) Mahalo for sharing! : )
Do not use a PWM motor controller. They can be responsible for flicker as they actually flicker the light, hopefully at a frequency that the camera shutter ignores. Much better is to use an LED constant current driver. Many are adjustable. They provide constant current DC for truly flicker free operation.
This just made me feel good.
Very inspiring.
i would first go with calibration and setting steps. out of the box (at least my ender 3 was 0.5-0.7mm off)
you can easy setup this with Gcode start in your slicer. (eg. M92 X79.15 Y78.57 Z402.16)
after that i would suggest using your tip dimensions to over size holes
works fine with my printer now and cnc :)
Awesome. Very nice job, good video and great voiceover :D
Thanks Winston!
I'm surprised you didn't go with constant current, which is sort of the LED's native currency vs PWM. From experience researching constant current drivers and buying a couple, it wasn't obvious/trivial. Is that why you went PWM, or are there other advantages?
apples and oranges here. constant current is how the power is supplied. PWM controls the release of that power to the LEDs. PWM 'opens the gate' for power to flow to the LEDs, then slams that gate. our eyes perceive the rapid on/off as a dimmed light.
It would be great to see you rough 3D print something and the CNC it to final dimensions!
I also just got my first 3D Printer, but only because I wasn't able to get my cnc router journey started.
there was no excuse to use PWM instead of voltage controlled dimming in this case.
strips are already current limited and 12V rating means that most of DC-DC voltage converters of appropriate power rating would do the job.
I just use an LED light panel. Does the job nicely :).
depending on the led lpw may change output as well
Very Nice, what we expect from WInston! When I added my overhead LED array overhead in my enclosure I noticed a nasty shadow under my router and then had to add some focused LED spots on the side. A video on why you choose the 3D Printer you bought? I am getting close too to breaking down and buying a 3D Printer. Cheers
I originally included a segment on that in the video, but it felt too long, and you'd just be staring at a 3D printer while I talked. This was my reasoning:
One, it’s super affordable. This machine cost $400. That’s bonkers. I really didn’t want to spend a ton of money on something I didn’t know how often I’d use. For that price, it’s an insane value. With a small amount of tweaking, you’ll get some shockingly okay quality prints. It won’t compete with a machine 4 or 5 times the cost, but it will produce very respectable results.
Two, vs. the regular Ender 5, the Pro has Creality’s upgraded silent stepper driver board. It’s probably just me, but there’s just something about the sound of 3D printers chirping away in the background that I find objectionable. It’s worse than milling machines because 3D printers have such erratic trajectories and run for so long. (I am biased though...).
And three, it has a box frame, which would be very easy to retrofit with wall panels. Printers with moving build platforms have different footprint requirements and tend to be pretty deep in the Y axis. Now, I don’t plan on printing any particularly exotic materials, so I don’t need the thermal stability afforded by an airtight enclosure. I have no intention of putting a roof over this printer. But, this printer will live in my garage, which is pretty dusty. Those walls will help keep wood shavings, aluminum chips, and grinding dust off the print bed, as well as block wind, since the garage can become a bit of a cyclone chamber with the doors open.
My only thing against the 5-Pro is it’s cantilevered build platform. With heavier prints, and rapid movements, you can get a bit of static deflection and vibration at the front. The 5 Plus fixes this. But I didn’t have the room for the Ender 5 Plus and it doesn't come standard with the silent stepper driver board, so the Pro model was what I settled on.
In the next episode, Winston designs and machines a more rigid 3D printer chassis.
Always great content!
Instead of triangles, it would be interesting to machine heatsink fins. Wavy or zig-zag fins could balance rigidity and cooling, all while making sure people know you have a CNC
FYI I am NASA certified solderer (1993) for micro miniature and multiplayer lay circuit board assemblies with x40 microscope. I thoroughly enjoyed the excavation of large 2'x2' or 3'x3' multiplayer CB
what's that ball thing above the CNC machine attached to the roof of the enclosure?
what do you recommend for changing tools with out losing the 'x' and 'y' axis zero settings and getting a new 'z' axis zero setting?
Tighten and lossen collets with two wrenches. It cancels out the sideways force and let's you put pure torque into the collet. Then zero off something that doesn't change between operations, like the wasteboard. Though if you have a BitSetter or tool length probe this doesn't matter
Just after asking this question I got and email stating that the BitSetter was back in stock I now have one on order. Thank you for your reply.
Great video, liked and subbed 👍👍
Ha Ha! I'm in same boat, i own a cnc and a CO2 laser but i havent bit the bullet on a 3D printer. I might just have to after watching this video.😂😂😂
I did go the other way. Got a 3d printer first and love it. CNC is nice but I think I will use my 3d printer more often than the Cnc.
One project I’m doing right now is 3d printing a part and use the Cnc for final touch ups.
One of Us! One of Us! One of Us! Welcome to the dark side, even if only testing the waters.
can you do a video of how u set your x ,y, and z zero for your stock specifically on the nomad?
Good luck, when I got a 3D printer I didn't touch the Shapeoko for a year
"I would not recommend this for the casual maker" - Define casual in this instance.... :D
Cool video have you ever thought about using a cnc to post process the 3d print to get better accuracy and better finishes
Potentially even design fixtureing straight into the model that gets cut down to tabs at the end of the cycle
"a cheap skate that undervalues my own time" hey you dont have to come out and attack me like this
Why did you pull the knob off the PWM controller? Just curious!😊
Only way to remove/install the retaining nut.
Are you an engineer? Great, useful and nice skill.
By training, yes. In terms of what I do these days on a daily basis, not so much.
@@WinstonMakes Let's cheer up to get our goal.
Another excellent video. But you could slow down a bit Winston, you give so much information that it’s very hard to keep up. That said, I’m a fan and will continue to watch and probably rewatch, all that you offer.
Keep safe, keep well. Best wishes.
CNC all the things!
how that shapeoko makine works? i wnow they are belt driven, is the precision affected? bye
34w power dissipation from a few LED strips? That seems rather high to me.
2700K LED’s don’t attract bugs, if you don’t mind the yellow colour.
Amy reason you wouldn't add a light under your gantry?
yaaay more DIY-Nonsense please!
Are you thinking about getting a lathe yet? #LightsNeeded
It IS the next step. I already got me a 13x40 ... 🤦🏻♂️👍
@@Stefan_Van_pellicom Good luck
ut oh ... 3d printed bezels on led bars. I hope you did not take PLA as the heat from the leds will in the long run not be kind to said PLA.
The dark side is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural.
I love me some HDPE.
Hell has truly frozen over it seems.
Says he “makes a living out of his garage producing content.”
Uploads 3 videos in past year. Lol