We pull 2 crosses at once ONLY for the first 2 crosses because if we did pull tension on that first cross, it can either break the knot or pull the knot through the grommet. Every other cross, you will pull tension on. Hope that helps. Jason, TW
Andy, your stringing skills are crazy awesome, I like the way you tie off on the mains using the special loop ,and the way you weave the crosses. Keep up the excellent work!
@Prabhath Mannam, As simple as it sounds, the first thing that we do is just to clean the clamp. Use rubbing alcohol and a towel to clean the rod that extends down into the stringer, as it can sometimes get slick when it is dirty. See if that fixes the problem (it usually does for us) and if it doesn't, call our customer service number and they can walk you through a few more things that may help. Andy, TW
i have the mains done and i'm most of the way through the crosses. but with the mains tightened, they are almost fully covering one of the cross grommets on the outside, how do i get around this please?
@ Maciek Wywijas, Most Prince racquets will have a "short side", which only pertains to you if you are using a one-piece method. If you do, make sure your short side is the one indicated on the racquet, or else the port grommet system won't line up properly. Andy, TW
@ Daniel Espinosa, By weaving one cross ahead, it lowers the strings and makes it easier to weave. As for your knots, I prefer to use the starting knot for my, well, starting knot, as it sits more flush and holds a little better when pulling tension on it. Andy, TW
Let me just say that this was BY FAR the most clearly explained stringing video I've seen. Even though I already know how to string, this allowed me to re-evaluate my methods to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. As always great videos from TennisWarehouse.
@Michael Flanigan, Any racquet can be strung using the two piece method while only some racquets are recommended to be strung using a one piece method. You can certainly string your racquet using the two piece method. Andy, TW
@Andy Lin, Pulling tension every string assures the tension is correct and consistent across the stringbed. The less you pull tension (like doing it every 2 strings), the less consistent the tension will be throughout the stringbed. As for pulling tension on the crosses, if you pull tension on the string immediately before the one you are about to weave (like what you're suggesting), the string is lifted in such a way that it makes it more difficult to weave. If you pull tension on the string two previous to what you're about to weave (like we instruct), the strings are lifted in such a way that it helps you weave more easily. Andy, TW
The reason we do this to prevent two things from happening. One, pulling the starting knot through the grommet. And two, not putting that much pressure on the knot that it breaks. Jason, TW
Can you guys show us how to do your starting knot but with polyester string? It's so hard to do that cleanly with a poly because those strings are much stiffer than multis or gut
Andy is out playing a tennis tournament. So I'll jump in here. A drop weight machine will string a racquet 4-6% higher than a crank machine. Both machines have their advantages and disadvantages. Crank machines are faster but drop weights are cheaper and pull tension more true. Jason, TW
@ Simone Brazzi, I didn't use the Parnell knot simply because it's not the style I'm used to using, nor do we use it here at TW. It works just fine though, so to each their own! As for the starting clamp, same thing. It's just not how we do it here at TW, but it certainly works. Andy, TW
Thanks for doijg a slow moyion om yhe eqsy bit and completely fast forwarding through the all important starting bit ( getting the tension on the firat teo strings) i needed to see.
Hi Andy, could you also show us a link or your videos guide to knots in general, thx. Your video on stringing was the best from the others that I viewed, very clear and easy to understand after watching it a few times. Keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for video! I have reels of string so they do not come with the labeling tape used to put the date, type of string and poundage...what type of tape do you use?
Hello, nice video. I would like to ask a question: How long (meters) do the two pieces of string individually have to be for a mid size plus racket in order to have the least amount of overrun? I'm using reels. Thank you.
For most electronic stringing machines, there is a tie off function, where if you hit the button it will increase the tension by about 10% for one pull. You could also do this on a manual machine, by changing tension manually when pulling on the last strings before tie offs, just don't forget to change it back. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks for that Troy , I have been pulling 10% extra tension on the last two mains on each side and the first two and last two crossess.... However I am now going to change this to your suggestions
Thanks for the video. Quick question on changing sides on the mains. It is not clear since you speed the video up. You have a clamp set on the first right main at the bottom of the racket - the first clamp you set (@2:19). When you switch sides after the first three on the left, do you simply pull the tension against this clamp, then reset the clamp? This doesn't seem ideal. Or do you use a 3rd floating clamp st against the frame temporarily when moving that fixed clamp?
@chubby 00, After pulling the tension on the first three mains on the left, we then pull the first main on the right, directly against that clamp. Then move the clamp from the bottom of the racquet to the top, on that same first main string. Troy, TW
Hi Tennis Warehouse. How do you know when your clamps are positioned too tightly for strings? I also wanted to know if clamp marks is something to be worried about on a string, and if there's anything I can do about it.
@Andrew Hoang, The clamp marks on the string is just from the clamp being tight, and there isn't anything you can do about it other than loosening the grips of the clamps. You don't really want them to mark the strings, but it is important that they hold the strings and you don't lose tension. Find a nice balance between clamping the strings so tight that they mark but tight enough that they don't slip or lose tension when releasing your tension head. Andy, TW
Hey Andy great tips on stringing the racket, I got a Wilson triumph Roland Garros 1 piece string , 2 knot , can you let me know how much length of string I need? Regards. Giuseppe
@Pallavan POLO, Both of those strings are going to offer excellent control, spin and durability, and by stringing them at a low enough tension you'll get power and comfort too. I'd recommend going with ALU Power as it will be livelier and easier on your arm. Try it at 53 lbs and see what you think. Andy, TW
Hi Andy, I have a question about my racket clamp on my Prince neos 1000. My mounting clamp for the head of my racket seems loose. Do you know how I can tighten this? Thanks.
Is it important for the clamps to be mounted to the stringing machine or can i just clamp them to the string in the air close to the frame so it doesnt move? I'm asking that because I am looking for a stringing machine right now and there is a electric machine with no clamps attached to it and no rail for it. Also there is a stringing machine with a crank like used in the video with rails and clamps mounted to the machine. Which one should i get and what are the pros and cons of both the machines? I only want to string for me and maybe 3 friends or so, no business.
For machines that do not have mounted clamps, you will typically have to use floating clamps, like these: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Gamma_Composite_Floating_Clamp/descpageGAMMA-GFCLAMP.html. That type of machine may even include them, that said, they can definitely do the job, but don't hold the tension quite as well, specifically near the tie-off locations. The crank machines, or lock-out machines, don't have the constant pull function like most electronic ones, but they are pretty reliable, relatively easy to maintain, and the fixed clamps with the rails are always pretty useful, and reliable. It sounds like the crank machine would be best for what you will be using it for. The electronic machines are nice, but without the mounted clamps, I would probably steer you towards the crank machine. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse Okey thank you very much, i cleared my mind and thought this was the best solution too, looking forward to string some rackets in the near future :)
Would I be able to string a wilson prostaff 6.0 85 original with a two piece stringing method? I am only asking this because your site says that it has a one piece stringing method used.
Hi Tennis Warehouse! I was wondering when you guys string one piece jobs, like on demos for example, do you string the crosses bottom up? Or so you have a specific one piece stringing method that allows for you to string top to bottom? Thanks in advance!
flamingrubix , There's a general rule of thumb that you want to string your crosses from top to bottom. If the mains end at the bottom, then the racquet should almost always be strung as a 2 piece. If the mains end at the top then it can be done as either a 1 or 2 piece. Andy, TW
Thank you for the reply... that makes sense about the starting knot. You STILL stay one weave "ahead" the rest of the way on the crosses through... (before pulling tension on the long "loop.") Is that to make it "easier" to weave?
Hi Andy. My racket of choice is the Wilson Burn 100 and on the website it says to use the one piece method, but is it okay to use the two piece method? Thanks
dick peterson , This method will work on any stringer. The only thing that may vary between stringers is how to pull tension - whether it's a drop weight, crank pull (like the video) or electric. Clamping the string as shown in the video will indeed hold the tension. Andy, TW
I strung my first one and it was a big fail because I watched other instructions on here...I watched this video before my second one and it all made perfect sense!!! It was done better than the place we used to take it to!! Thanks, Andy!!!
@Johan Melander, We find the fixed clamps on this Prince NEOS 1000 machine, to hold their position, and help achieve a more accurate tension, compared to using floating clamps. Troy, TW
Awesome video. I'd like to learn how to string my own rackets, but first I need to buy a stringing machine. Is there one that you'd recommend for a beginner? Hopefully one that would provide consistent quality in terms of the tension of the string job.
I'd also recommend checking out the message boards through TW, the Strings/Stringing Machines & Techniques sub-forums are extremely useful (check the stickies!) when selecting machines.
Thanks for the video! I've been able to string my mains easily, but I'm having more difficulty with my crosses. They don't have much tension even though I'm stringing at 55lbs, and they also aren't straight. They tend to curve downwards and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
@EagleonFire, The crosses tend to be more difficult than the mains, as it takes a while to learn how to weave them quickly. The crosses will be a bit looser than the mains as it is not a straight pull like the mains, and the mains cause a bit of friction while pulling tension on the crosses. I will straighten out the crosses while I'm stringing them. Try to go back and straighten out the last couple of crosses, as you progress on to the next one. Troy, TW
@@RawDogTV well, to me its not worth waiting days for it to be strung, and near me there is absolutely noone who strings racquets. closest is dicks sporting goods 25 mins away and you have to drop it off and go back
@@AlanGonzalez-ev6ur Yeah, I started stringing 5 years ago and it was the best decision I've ever made. You can really save a lot of time and have full control over experimenting with hybrids (at will). Plus I string for others and make some side money for buying more strings for myself.
This was great! Quick question though. For the cross string do we do one string then the next with the tension puller then the next string without the puller and so on?
@ANNA KAMARUDDIN, For the cross strings, you always want to be one ahead of the one last tensioned. When you start the crosses, weave three crosses and then pull tension on the second one. From then on, always string one ahead and then pull tension on the previous one. For example, weave your fourth cross and then pull tension on the third. Then, weave the fifth and pull tension on the fourth, and so on. Andy, TW
Hi, I wanted to know, which is a good start up stringing machine. There are so many advertised in tennis magazines. I want your opinion, thx for the great video. Reza
Reza Peera , We use (and really like) the Prince NEOS 1000 pictured in the video above. They are simple to use, reliable and not too expensive. Gamma also makes a number of very good machines. Andy, TW
Great video Tennis Warehouse. I am looking to buy a stringing machine and I can't decide between the Prince Neos 1000 and the Prince Neos 1500. Are there any major differences besides the price, and which one would you recommend? I am also wondering if either of the machines come with any tools like the awl, pliers, and clippers? Thanks
@Dave Nash, The 1500 is a little newer model and features a different clamp and mounting system. It is newer but what one thinks is better is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the 1000 but many experienced stringers prefer the 1500. It really is up to you, but you will still get a mighty fine machine if you go with the 1000. All of them should come with all the tools you need to get started! Andy, TW
@Johan Stampe, The top two crosses will typically feel loose, because of pulling on two strings at the same time, on the cross start-knot. One way to help with that, is to use a starting clamp to hold tension for your crosses, which clamps the string from the outside of your frame, on the bumper guard. You would then string all your crosses and go back to tie off the top knot at the end. I would recommend pulling your bottom cross a couple pounds tighter, to help keep it from feeling loose. If you have not learned the Champion’s knot, I recommend it. I have found it to be best at reducing tension loss at tie off. Troy, TW
Hello Andy. Great video, but I was wondering if I can use the method that you use in this video on my wilson blade 98s (18x16)?, because when I click on my racket on your website it says "one piece" under stringing pattern :)
Hey Andy, could you comment on crank vs. dropweight stringers, in terms of tension accuracy/consistency? I'm thinking about picking up a stringer for personal use and I'm debating which kind I'd want. Thanks!
I know they are both quality units, but can you share your preference between NEOS 1500 and Gamma 6004 please and why? Also, is Wise pull unit a worthwhile addon for tension accuracy?
Hi TW. I use Babolat Pure Drive, and i would like to know if you have some suggestions to string it. I like alot Tecnifibre Black Code, but its too expensive for me. Is there a cheaper string that offers the same aspects as the black code?
@ marlounb, This Prince NEOS 1000 is a great one to check out! It's accurate, simple and easy to use. For better accuracy, look into machines that have a crank or electronic tension system. Andy, TW
@Ryan Rome, There are some subtle differences, but they are basically the same stringer. Prince and Ektelon are sister companies, so the Model H was essentially the "prototype" of the Neos 1000. Andy, TW
Hello andy im having trouble with the last knot on the babolat pure strike 18x20, can you tell me what to do because i have tried fit the string on all the holes but none of them are big enough, i have already broke two strings please i need help the holes are too smalls
@ Nestor Rincon Soto, The tie off spot for the crosses on that racquet should be the 7th main if you're counting from the middle of the racquet outwards. If the hole is too small, use the awl very carefully to create more space in the grommet. Andy, TW
@ Dan Liutikas, The NEOS has a two-point mounting system, whereas the Gamma has a 6-point. They also have different types of clamps. I prefer the NEOS simply because it's what I'm used to, and I'm faster and more efficient on it. Some people prefer the Gamma's mounting system and clamps because they find them more secure. The Wise unit is definitely a nice piece but is not necessary to produce tension consistently. Andy, TW
Hey Tennis Warehouse, thanks for the video made things a lot easier. I was wondering if pulling tension every 2 strings makes a difference than how you do it every string
Oh and btw why don't you pull tension on the second string first and than start the third cross? You pull the third cross first before pulling tension and that looks confusing is there a paticular reason why y'all do that
@Vele Korunoski, With the machine we our using, Prince NEOS 1000, you typically only clamp each string once. We clamp the string that is being pulled on, as close as possible to the side of the frame. The clamp goes on the side where the string is being pulled by the crank tension mechanism. For the very first main string, we clamp the string on the next string over, on the other side of the mid-point. We then pull the tension against that clamp. As shown at about 2:10 in this video. Troy, TW
Andy but the thing is that i did both knots of the mains on the holes 7ths of each side because there no room on the other holes. Im going desperate here because i want to tie the mains knots on other holes i cant and when i come with the last cross there ir no space at all, am i doing somethinf wrong? Where should tight both mains then or should i try to to the one piece method. I have already done the mains on the racquet. But i dont want start the crosses until i have everything cleared
@ Nestor Rincon Soto, You should tie off your mains on the 8th (2nd to last) main string. You should stick with the two piece method since the mains end down at the bottom of the hoop. If you've already used the 7th main to tie off your mains, try using the 8th main to tie off your crosses. Create room in the hole with your awl tool very carefully if the string can't fit through. Andy, TW
@TMFL GAMING, Unfortunately, we do not have those machines in our warehouse, as they ship directly from the manufacturer. We used the Prince NEOS 1000 machine in this video, as it is the machine that we primarily use to string on. Troy, TW
@King Obcinity, Most professional players are using a full bed of co-poly string, or a natural gut/co-poly hybrid. The co-poly strings, such ALU Power, RPM Blast, Hyper-G, are low powered strings, which allow advanced players to take big cuts at the ball. The player's swing speed, and advanced technique, is what is causes the ball to come off the string at high velocity, and rotation. Troy, TW
+debjyoti chakraborty , Tension is really a matter of personal preference, so you have to experiment around and find what works best for you. A good place to start though is right at the middle of the recommended tension range that's listed on your racquet. Try that and see how it works for you. Andy, TW
@cwstorm007, With shared holes you just need to take special care not to get the string crossed in the grommet. Otherwise, string as usual. As for the 1-piece vs. 2-piece question, almost every Head racquet is designed to be strung using the 2-piece method. I'd recommend using the 2-piece method on any Head frames, otherwise you could run into some problems. Andy, TW
Andy I have a question. Recently, I learned how to string rackets on my own. I ordered a string(Luxilon Alu Power) in a pack which had 40 feet of string in it. The racket I strung was my wilson blade 104. I used the two-piece stringing method, so I cut the string in half. When I got to my last 2 mains, I didn't have enough string to tension either side, and I measured the mains string so it was definitely 20ft. I was wondering if the head size of the racket had anything to do with why I ran out of string before I could finish my mains? And if so, how many feet of string would you recommend to use for rackets with bigger headsizes?
Denzel Harris , Racquets with a larger head size or a tighter string pattern will require more string, but it's only a rare occasion that 40 feet is not enough string to cover the whole racquet. One pack of string should have been enough for your Blade 104. I'd maybe check if you used too much string for your starting knot at the crosses, which would then give you less string for the rest of your crosses. Also, you may find that saving a little bit MORE than half of your set of string for your crosses may be necessary. Andy, TW
Hi Andy, Great video, thanks for posting. Just a quick question: I was under the impression that the crosses need to be started near the throat to keep the pressure lowered on the frame. Is there a specific reason you started from the top of the frame? Thanks for your help and again, for posting this video. It's very helpful.
@crisptitanium, On the contrary, the crosses should almost always start at the top of the frame. According to some research done by the USRSA, they've found that sometimes when you start the crosses near the throat, pressure can accumulate in the upper hoop that sometimes causes cracking in that area of the frame. We try to adhere to these USRSA findings as best we can with the racquets strung at TW. Andy, TW
here's a question:I have been starting from the left side of the racquet doing 2-3 mains depending on pattern, tying it off in bottom left corner, and then stringing the rest of the racquet. Can you think of any cons or issues doing it this way? Thanks in advance,John R
+John R , If you string just one side of the racquet and then the other, then you will be placing uneven pressure on the frame and could potentially damage it. You want to string it as evenly as possible so that you're not putting too much stress on the racquet. Andy, TW
Hello tennis warehouse i have a question, how long can tennis string be stored in a reel? I have alu power rough and alu power normal from 5 years old is it okey to use it?
This video was very informative and helpful. Unfortunately, shortly after stringing 3 weeks (maybe 10 hours of play) I broke a string. Are there a few common stringing errors that could cause a string to break so quickly?
It is hard to say for certain what the cause was, but first thing is make sure you aren't pinching the string too much when you clamp it. You might also be able to check the tension to see if it is pinching the string too much when it grabs the string, our manual Prince Neos 1000 you can adjust it, not sure if you can on an electronic machine. Also when you pull the tension on the last couple of main strings make sure to hold the grommet strip in place as you pull the string with the tensioner, if you don't it could cause the string to come in contact with the sharp edge of the drilled hole. Troy, TW
@Daniel Kim, You'll want to use about 20 ft of string for both the mains and crosses. Once you get experience stringing your racquets you'll be able to dial in exactly how much string you'll need because it will vary from racquet to racquet. Andy, TW
I have a gamma progression drop weight stringer. A friend checked the string tension on mains and crosses with a tension devise and my mains were relly close to the original set tension. but the crosses were really low. I set the tension on the stringer at 42 lbs. and the devise read fron 30-34. how can I fix this?
Drop weight stringers are notoriously difficult to calibrate and get the tension exactly right every time. If the tension was right for your mains it just sounds like you need to let the drop weight "drop" a little lower to get your desired tension. Since the tension was right on your mains, it doesn't sound like there's any issue with the calibration of the stringer. Andy, TW
I been watching some videos on stringing and one says, after making the knot place tension on the knot, but in this video you just tied it. What is better to do, tie the knot and be done with it or add tension to the knot?
+Diamondeye , This becomes a stylistic difference, but we prefer to NOT apply tension to the knot before stringing the first cross because doing so could put too much pressure on the grommet that the knot is close to. By pulling tension on the first cross you will gently apply tension to the knot and not do damage to the grommets. Andy, TW
@Covis KK, Without that lock bar engaged, on machine such as the Prince NEOS 1000, the frame will compress and become rounded. This will either distort the frame shape, or cause the frame to crack while stringing it. Troy, TW
Just to Clarify please.. The "Lock Bar" you mention is in other words The Table Brake which "locks the Racquet work station? Stops the table from rotating.? Are you talking about the 2 Racquet Clamps that head and throat.? That would definately damage the Racquet if either was not locked in. I have a Ektelon Machine.Hope I havn't confused you...
@Covis KK, The lock bar stops the two racquet mounts from moving (for the head and throat, or 12 and 6 o'clock). Basically supporting the top and bottom of the racquet head, stopping it from collapsing under the pressure of pulling tension on the mains. There is another brake underneath the lock bar, that stops the table from rotating, if needed. Troy, TW
Ahhh I see.... its the Locking lever that secures the adjustable Throat Post. Yer, if this wasn't locked down the Throat post would just move with the tension. Nice Vid by the way...Thanks
I have a few questions. First, what is a good starting machine? Second, how often should you clamp? And third, can I use the same method with my Yonex dual g 100, or is it different regarding the string pattern?
@ Fernando Andrade, For a starter machine, I'd look for a nice used crank-style machine. You should clamp every time you pull tension on a string. The method demonstrated above can certainly be used on your Yonex racquet. Andy, TW
Fernando Andrade , The Klippermate machine is a "drop weight" machine, meaning that you drop the weight at the end of a long rod in order to pull tension on the strings. This type of stringer certainly works fine for people once they get used to it, but crank or electric stringers will be more accurate and consistent. Andy, TW
Check out the stringing machines sub-forum on Talk TW, it'll have more opinions than just one from the staff (which doesn't use either machine at TW specifically).
When you started, you clamped one of the middle strings by the throat...how do you pull tension on this string? Do you just pull tension with the clamp on it then move the clamp to the top of the racquet after pulling tension? Please reply thanks!
Do you have to premeasure the length of string required for each racquet? (I.e. if you have a full reel, would you have to measure out the length needed?)
@Jen, Yes, if you have a reel of string, you need to measure the amount needed for one racquet. Most racquets will be somewhere between 35-40 feet of string. I will usually measure about 6.5-7 wingspans, of my arms spread out from fingertip to fingertip, depending on the racquet and string pattern. Troy, TW
@Rai ou, There are certainly other types of knots that you can use that will work fine, so if you're finding it's holding tension and not damaging your frame then by all means go for it. What I illustrates above is simply what I do and what Tennis Warehouse would recommend, which would also coincide with the USRSA. Just be careful tensioning it with the machine because it can pop the knot and also damage the frame. Pull very slowly and pay close attention. Andy, TW
Can someone tell me the reason for stringing two crosses at a time ? I am finding that confusing . Are you pulling tension on both strings or just one of them ? I have read some of your previous answers as you say it makes weaving easier , but could you explain why and how it makes weaving easier ? Thanks Ollie
We prefer to use a pre-weave. So basically weave the first cross, pull it all the way through, so it's ready to be pulled by the tension mechanism, and then weave the next cross through, but leave it loose. Then use the crank or motor to tension that first cross, clamp it, then start pulling the second cross through, and pre-weave your third. We find to be pretty efficient this way. Also we pull tension on the second cross when using a starting knot, trying not to smash the grommet too much. Or if you use a starting clamp, then you can pull directly on the first cross, or second, it doesn't really matter because you are going to re-tension that first cross anyway, at the end, to get rid of the starting clamp. If that is too confusing, search starting crosses with a starting clamp, and a video should clear it up. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks very much for your detailed response Troy , that does now make sense to me . I'm doing my first restring Tommorow so just brushing up on as much knowledge as possible . Cheers
@Alan Kakinami about 3/4 hours the first time , because I really slowed down the process to appreciate each part, and did the knots a few times . I've got it down to below 2 now , but I like to take my time , because I actually enjoy the process of stringing , with a podcast on and chilling out.
@harry rodell, We are using a Prince NEOS 1000, and you can check it out on our website here: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_NEOS_1000_Stringing_Machine/descpagePRINCE-NEOS.html Andy, TW
I have strung alot of rackets. I strung one racket today. But on the last cross I skipped one main if you know what I mean. You think this will effect my tennis game? On the last cross I only has my dampener.@tenniswarehouse
Ok so I have an issue I recently received a gift and it's was the Wilson Ultra 110 but it was unstrung it didn't have any strings and didn't come with any and I don't know how to put in the strings for example do I need the machine being used in the video? And I don't know what string to buy, it only says it's 16x18 but I'm honestly a bit clueless when it come to this stuff. The last racket I bought was in store so it had the strings already. Lastly it was sent from Wilson does Wilson regularly send rackets without strings or is it an error? Sorry if this is long I just don't know what to do. Please respond I'd appreciate the response.
You will need to take your racquet to a stringer and have it strung. You can buy the string from the stringer or you can buy from us. I would recommend a string such as this: Wilson Sensation 16 String $9.95. www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-SEN16.html Sensation is a nice affordable performance string. There will also be a labor charge for the installation of the string (yes, you need a stringing machine to install it). A tension of 55 lbs is pretty middle of the road and should serve you well. Check at the local tennis clubs for a stringer as most have one and you will get a better string job than at most big box general sporting goods stores. Cheers, Chris, TW
We pull 2 crosses at once ONLY for the first 2 crosses because if we did pull tension on that first cross, it can either break the knot or pull the knot through the grommet. Every other cross, you will pull tension on. Hope that helps.
Jason, TW
Then why not (no pun intended) use the same knot to start the cross strings that you did to tie off the main strings? That know will not pull thru.
Great video, thanks! So just to confirm, you can pull tension on the second cross and it tensions both the first and second crosses?
Andy, your stringing skills are crazy awesome, I like the way you tie off on the mains using the special loop ,and the way you weave the crosses. Keep up the excellent work!
@Prabhath Mannam,
As simple as it sounds, the first thing that we do is just to clean the clamp. Use rubbing alcohol and a towel to clean the rod that extends down into the stringer, as it can sometimes get slick when it is dirty. See if that fixes the problem (it usually does for us) and if it doesn't, call our customer service number and they can walk you through a few more things that may help.
Andy, TW
i have the mains done and i'm most of the way through the crosses. but with the mains tightened, they are almost fully covering one of the cross grommets on the outside, how do i get around this please?
So helpful! I always have to rewatch since its like 3 months between stringing my own racquets. Thank you guys!
@ Maciek Wywijas,
Most Prince racquets will have a "short side", which only pertains to you if you are using a one-piece method. If you do, make sure your short side is the one indicated on the racquet, or else the port grommet system won't line up properly.
Andy, TW
@ Daniel Espinosa,
By weaving one cross ahead, it lowers the strings and makes it easier to weave. As for your knots, I prefer to use the starting knot for my, well, starting knot, as it sits more flush and holds a little better when pulling tension on it.
Andy, TW
Holy crap are there classes on this?
Let me just say that this was BY FAR the most clearly explained stringing video I've seen. Even though I already know how to string, this allowed me to re-evaluate my methods to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. As always great videos from TennisWarehouse.
@Michael Flanigan,
Any racquet can be strung using the two piece method while only some racquets are recommended to be strung using a one piece method. You can certainly string your racquet using the two piece method.
Andy, TW
@Andy Lin,
Pulling tension every string assures the tension is correct and consistent across the stringbed. The less you pull tension (like doing it every 2 strings), the less consistent the tension will be throughout the stringbed. As for pulling tension on the crosses, if you pull tension on the string immediately before the one you are about to weave (like what you're suggesting), the string is lifted in such a way that it makes it more difficult to weave. If you pull tension on the string two previous to what you're about to weave (like we instruct), the strings are lifted in such a way that it helps you weave more easily.
Andy, TW
The reason we do this to prevent two things from happening. One, pulling the starting knot through the grommet. And two, not putting that much pressure on the knot that it breaks.
Jason, TW
Can you guys show us how to do your starting knot but with polyester string? It's so hard to do that cleanly with a poly because those strings are much stiffer than multis or gut
Thank you, Andy for your helpful tips on stringing a tennis racquet. Strung my first few racquets and will be testing them out tomorrow.
@Stephen Yung,
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Andy, TW
Andy is out playing a tennis tournament. So I'll jump in here. A drop weight machine will string a racquet 4-6% higher than a crank machine. Both machines have their advantages and disadvantages. Crank machines are faster but drop weights are cheaper and pull tension more true.
Jason, TW
@ Simone Brazzi,
I didn't use the Parnell knot simply because it's not the style I'm used to using, nor do we use it here at TW. It works just fine though, so to each their own! As for the starting clamp, same thing. It's just not how we do it here at TW, but it certainly works.
Andy, TW
Thanks for doijg a slow moyion om yhe eqsy bit and completely fast forwarding through the all important starting bit ( getting the tension on the firat teo strings) i needed to see.
ruclips.net/video/0fcQMGRHY4Y/видео.html I have found this video super helpful; he goes really slowly
Hi Andy, could you also show us a link or your videos guide to knots in general, thx. Your video on stringing was the best from the others that I viewed, very clear and easy to understand after watching it a few times.
Keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for video! I have reels of string so they do not come with the labeling tape used to put the date, type of string and poundage...what type of tape do you use?
Hello, nice video. I would like to ask a question: How long (meters) do the two pieces of string individually have to be for a mid size plus racket in order to have the least amount of overrun? I'm using reels. Thank you.
The best stringing video I have seen, concise and easy to follow. Thank you!
Do you put extra tension on any particular strings to account for tension loss when tying of knots ? If so do you do this on crosses and mains ?
For most electronic stringing machines, there is a tie off function, where if you hit the button it will increase the tension by about 10% for one pull. You could also do this on a manual machine, by changing tension manually when pulling on the last strings before tie offs, just don't forget to change it back. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks for that Troy , I have been pulling 10% extra tension on the last two mains on each side and the first two and last two crossess.... However I am now going to change this to your suggestions
Thanks for the video. Quick question on changing sides on the mains. It is not clear since you speed the video up. You have a clamp set on the first right main at the bottom of the racket - the first clamp you set (@2:19). When you switch sides after the first three on the left, do you simply pull the tension against this clamp, then reset the clamp? This doesn't seem ideal. Or do you use a 3rd floating clamp st against the frame temporarily when moving that fixed clamp?
@chubby 00,
After pulling the tension on the first three mains on the left, we then pull the first main on the right, directly against that clamp. Then move the clamp from the bottom of the racquet to the top, on that same first main string.
Troy, TW
Hi Tennis Warehouse. How do you know when your clamps are positioned too tightly for strings? I also wanted to know if clamp marks is something to be worried about on a string, and if there's anything I can do about it.
@Andrew Hoang,
The clamp marks on the string is just from the clamp being tight, and there isn't anything you can do about it other than loosening the grips of the clamps. You don't really want them to mark the strings, but it is important that they hold the strings and you don't lose tension. Find a nice balance between clamping the strings so tight that they mark but tight enough that they don't slip or lose tension when releasing your tension head.
Andy, TW
Thank you so much for this tutorial. My racket is now strung! Hopefully I can figure out the knots....
Hey Andy great tips on stringing the racket, I got a Wilson triumph Roland Garros 1 piece string , 2 knot , can you let me know how much length of string I need? Regards. Giuseppe
A regular set of string will work just fine for you. It will be 12.2m and you will have plenty of string to knot off etc.
@Pallavan POLO,
Both of those strings are going to offer excellent control, spin and durability, and by stringing them at a low enough tension you'll get power and comfort too. I'd recommend going with ALU Power as it will be livelier and easier on your arm. Try it at 53 lbs and see what you think.
Andy, TW
Hi Andy, I have a question about my racket clamp on my Prince neos 1000. My mounting clamp for the head of my racket seems loose. Do you know how I can tighten this?
Thanks.
I don't even play tennis
Can you make a video using a one piece method?
Here’s One on the one piece method if you’re still looking!
ruclips.net/video/njlq7L1fsZY/видео.html
Is it important for the clamps to be mounted to the stringing machine or can i just clamp them to the string in the air close to the frame so it doesnt move?
I'm asking that because I am looking for a stringing machine right now and there is a electric machine with no clamps attached to it and no rail for it.
Also there is a stringing machine with a crank like used in the video with rails and clamps mounted to the machine.
Which one should i get and what are the pros and cons of both the machines?
I only want to string for me and maybe 3 friends or so, no business.
For machines that do not have mounted clamps, you will typically have to use floating clamps, like these: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Gamma_Composite_Floating_Clamp/descpageGAMMA-GFCLAMP.html. That type of machine may even include them, that said, they can definitely do the job, but don't hold the tension quite as well, specifically near the tie-off locations. The crank machines, or lock-out machines, don't have the constant pull function like most electronic ones, but they are pretty reliable, relatively easy to maintain, and the fixed clamps with the rails are always pretty useful, and reliable. It sounds like the crank machine would be best for what you will be using it for. The electronic machines are nice, but without the mounted clamps, I would probably steer you towards the crank machine. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse Okey thank you very much, i cleared my mind and thought this was the best solution too, looking forward to string some rackets in the near future :)
Would I be able to string a wilson prostaff 6.0 85 original with a two piece stringing method? I am only asking this because your site says that it has a one piece stringing method used.
Hi Tennis Warehouse! I was wondering when you guys string one piece jobs, like on demos for example, do you string the crosses bottom up? Or so you have a specific one piece stringing method that allows for you to string top to bottom? Thanks in advance!
flamingrubix ,
There's a general rule of thumb that you want to string your crosses from top to bottom. If the mains end at the bottom, then the racquet should almost always be strung as a 2 piece. If the mains end at the top then it can be done as either a 1 or 2 piece.
Andy, TW
Thank you for the reply... that makes sense about the starting knot.
You STILL stay one weave "ahead" the rest of the way on the crosses through... (before pulling tension on the long "loop.") Is that to make it "easier" to weave?
Tennis Warehouse do you know any soft poly strings that would go along well with the aero pro drive racket used in the video? pl
@Carlos Vasquez,
A couple nice softer polys to try would be Dunlop Black Widow and Tourna Big Hitter Black 7.
Andy, TW
Thanks
Hi Andy.
My racket of choice is the Wilson Burn 100 and on the website it says to use the one piece method, but is it okay to use the two piece method?
Thanks
@Andrew Baek,
Yes, you can use the two-piece method for just about any tennis racquet.
Troy, TW
Thank you
Will this method word on the Gamma Progression 602 stringer? Also, how does clamping only one string keep the tension (2:27)? Thank you!
dick peterson ,
This method will work on any stringer. The only thing that may vary between stringers is how to pull tension - whether it's a drop weight, crank pull (like the video) or electric. Clamping the string as shown in the video will indeed hold the tension.
Andy, TW
Well that is neat. I watched John McEnroe answers questions on Twitter about tennis which brought me to watch this. That looks very relaxing.
I strung my first one and it was a big fail because I watched other instructions on here...I watched this video before my second one and it all made perfect sense!!! It was done better than the place we used to take it to!! Thanks, Andy!!!
@chase60now,
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed the video and helped you learn how to string!
Andy, TW
how do you weave your crosses so quickly? i have trouble pushing the string between the mains.
@ josiah sibayan,
Practice makes perfect!
Andy, TW
Are clamps on a machine such as this one preferable to floating clamps when using a machine with a drop weight?? Would love some input!!!
@Johan Melander,
We find the fixed clamps on this Prince NEOS 1000 machine, to hold their position, and help achieve a more accurate tension, compared to using floating clamps.
Troy, TW
Thank you Troy!!! Much appreciated!!!
Awesome video. I'd like to learn how to string my own rackets, but first I need to buy a stringing machine. Is there one that you'd recommend for a beginner? Hopefully one that would provide consistent quality in terms of the tension of the string job.
I'd also recommend checking out the message boards through TW, the Strings/Stringing Machines & Techniques sub-forums are extremely useful (check the stickies!) when selecting machines.
Yup! You're right. We stay one weave ahead to help make weaving easier.
Thanks for the video! I've been able to string my mains easily, but I'm having more difficulty with my crosses. They don't have much tension even though I'm stringing at 55lbs, and they also aren't straight. They tend to curve downwards and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
@EagleonFire,
The crosses tend to be more difficult than the mains, as it takes a while to learn how to weave them quickly. The crosses will be a bit looser than the mains as it is not a straight pull like the mains, and the mains cause a bit of friction while pulling tension on the crosses. I will straighten out the crosses while I'm stringing them. Try to go back and straighten out the last couple of crosses, as you progress on to the next one.
Troy, TW
Hey Andy , many thanks for the replay. Giuseppe
... yeah nice video and very helpful... but I think I’ll just pay the $15-20 extra bucks lol, but nice video though
lol i was the same way but you save a lot of money stringing your own
@@brandentelle-marty3556 how cheap are you man lol
@@RawDogTV well, to me its not worth waiting days for it to be strung, and near me there is absolutely noone who strings racquets. closest is dicks sporting goods 25 mins away and you have to drop it off and go back
@@AlanGonzalez-ev6ur Yeah, I started stringing 5 years ago and it was the best decision I've ever made. You can really save a lot of time and have full control over experimenting with hybrids (at will). Plus I string for others and make some side money for buying more strings for myself.
@@RawDogTV chill bro its not that deep
This was great! Quick question though. For the cross string do we do one string then the next with the tension puller then the next string without the puller and so on?
@ANNA KAMARUDDIN,
For the cross strings, you always want to be one ahead of the one last tensioned. When you start the crosses, weave three crosses and then pull tension on the second one. From then on, always string one ahead and then pull tension on the previous one. For example, weave your fourth cross and then pull tension on the third. Then, weave the fifth and pull tension on the fourth, and so on.
Andy, TW
Would the Yusuki method work on a drop weight with swivel clamps?
Hi, I wanted to know, which is a good start up stringing machine. There are so many advertised in tennis magazines. I want your opinion, thx for the great video.
Reza
Reza Peera ,
We use (and really like) the Prince NEOS 1000 pictured in the video above. They are simple to use, reliable and not too expensive. Gamma also makes a number of very good machines.
Andy, TW
Thank you very much for your time and quick response.
Great video Tennis Warehouse. I am looking to buy a stringing machine and I can't decide between the Prince Neos 1000 and the Prince Neos 1500. Are there any major differences besides the price, and which one would you recommend? I am also wondering if either of the machines come with any tools like the awl, pliers, and clippers? Thanks
@Dave Nash,
The 1500 is a little newer model and features a different clamp and mounting system. It is newer but what one thinks is better is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the 1000 but many experienced stringers prefer the 1500. It really is up to you, but you will still get a mighty fine machine if you go with the 1000. All of them should come with all the tools you need to get started!
Andy, TW
Great video!
Why is my bottom and top two or tree crosses always completely loose? I believe I'm following the video to perfection.
Thanks!
@Johan Stampe,
The top two crosses will typically feel loose, because of pulling on two strings at the same time, on the cross start-knot. One way to help with that, is to use a starting clamp to hold tension for your crosses, which clamps the string from the outside of your frame, on the bumper guard. You would then string all your crosses and go back to tie off the top knot at the end. I would recommend pulling your bottom cross a couple pounds tighter, to help keep it from feeling loose. If you have not learned the Champion’s knot, I recommend it. I have found it to be best at reducing tension loss at tie off.
Troy, TW
Johan Stampe: Do you use flying clamps?
they are tie off you can try adding weight to tie off so when it drops tension it drops to specification
Hello Andy. Great video, but I was wondering if I can use the method that you use in this video on my wilson blade 98s (18x16)?, because when I click on my racket on your website it says "one piece" under stringing pattern :)
Excellent Instuctional Video very well explained!👍🏽
Could you please make a video just on how to do the 1 piece stringing pattern?
@Dorian Howell,
Thanks for the suggestion. We will keep it in mind for the future.
Andy, TW
Tennis Warehouse Many people would be grateful if you did that
Yes please +
Its very easy
Tennis Warehouse u still haven’t done it
WIth shared holes, it means you will string a main and cross string through 1 hole. Just string normally, as you do with any other racquet.
Jason, TW
Hey Andy, could you comment on crank vs. dropweight stringers, in terms of tension accuracy/consistency? I'm thinking about picking up a stringer for personal use and I'm debating which kind I'd want. Thanks!
hey andy, how about stringing Prince racquets? i heard they are special to stringing
I know they are both quality units, but can you share your preference between NEOS 1500 and Gamma 6004 please and why? Also, is Wise pull unit a worthwhile addon for tension accuracy?
Hi TW. I use Babolat Pure Drive, and i would like to know if you have some suggestions to string it. I like alot Tecnifibre Black Code, but its too expensive for me. Is there a cheaper string that offers the same aspects as the black code?
***** ,A couple great less expensive options would be Volkl Cyclone and Tourna Big Hitter Blue.
Andy, TW
Thank you very much for ansering my question! Continue to make awsome content.
@ marlounb,
This Prince NEOS 1000 is a great one to check out! It's accurate, simple and easy to use. For better accuracy, look into machines that have a crank or electronic tension system.
Andy, TW
Can you give me a more specific link? I'm having a hard time trying to find the specification of the racquets that I have. Thanks
tennis-warehouse.com
u can also go on klippermate
hey andy, what are the major differences between a prince neos 1000 and an ektelon model H?
@Ryan Rome,
There are some subtle differences, but they are basically the same stringer. Prince and Ektelon are sister companies, so the Model H was essentially the "prototype" of the Neos 1000.
Andy, TW
thank you, great video.. btw, what about squash racket, I suppose they should be the same.. and any info about stringing those teardrops racquet?
Hello andy im having trouble with the last knot on the babolat pure strike 18x20, can you tell me what to do because i have tried fit the string on all the holes but none of them are big enough, i have already broke two strings please i need help the holes are too smalls
@ Nestor Rincon Soto,
The tie off spot for the crosses on that racquet should be the 7th main if you're counting from the middle of the racquet outwards. If the hole is too small, use the awl very carefully to create more space in the grommet.
Andy, TW
@ Dan Liutikas,
The NEOS has a two-point mounting system, whereas the Gamma has a 6-point. They also have different types of clamps. I prefer the NEOS simply because it's what I'm used to, and I'm faster and more efficient on it. Some people prefer the Gamma's mounting system and clamps because they find them more secure. The Wise unit is definitely a nice piece but is not necessary to produce tension consistently.
Andy, TW
One question, at 5:50, what is the purpose of doing this method for the crosses as appose to just tensioning it the same as the mains?
Hey Tennis Warehouse, thanks for the video made things a lot easier. I was wondering if pulling tension every 2 strings makes a difference than how you do it every string
Oh and btw why don't you pull tension on the second string first and than start the third cross? You pull the third cross first before pulling tension and that looks confusing is there a paticular reason why y'all do that
Great tutorial. Thanks, Andy!
Do you have to clamp each main and cross on both sides or just the side it goes up/down on?
@Vele Korunoski,
With the machine we our using, Prince NEOS 1000, you typically only clamp each string once. We clamp the string that is being pulled on, as close as possible to the side of the frame. The clamp goes on the side where the string is being pulled by the crank tension mechanism.
For the very first main string, we clamp the string on the next string over, on the other side of the mid-point. We then pull the tension against that clamp. As shown at about 2:10 in this video.
Troy, TW
Tennis Warehouse Thanks Troy, makes it a lot easier for me now :))
@Vele Korunoski,
Glad we could help you.
Troy, TW
Hi TW, what is a good poly that is soft and not too harsh on the arm?
@Danzrer Slam,
Try Polyfibre TCS or Topspin Cyberflash.
Andy, TW
Andy but the thing is that i did both knots of the mains on the holes 7ths of each side because there no room on the other holes. Im going desperate here because i want to tie the mains knots on other holes i cant and when i come with the last cross there ir no space at all, am i doing somethinf wrong? Where should tight both mains then or should i try to to the one piece method. I have already done the mains on the racquet. But i dont want start the crosses until i have everything cleared
@ Nestor Rincon Soto,
You should tie off your mains on the 8th (2nd to last) main string. You should stick with the two piece method since the mains end down at the bottom of the hoop. If you've already used the 7th main to tie off your mains, try using the 8th main to tie off your crosses. Create room in the hole with your awl tool very carefully if the string can't fit through.
Andy, TW
hey, thank you for the video!
do you use the same tension on cross and mains?
+Tobias Zürcher You can. You can also change the tension between the mains and crosses. Whatever you prefer.
Michelle, TW
Hi would it be possible if you guys do a stringing on the gamma 6900
@TMFL GAMING,
Unfortunately, we do not have those machines in our warehouse, as they ship directly from the manufacturer. We used the Prince NEOS 1000 machine in this video, as it is the machine that we primarily use to string on.
Troy, TW
Hi tw, what string on the market allows the ball to explode with maximum action or penetration. Thanks
@King Obcinity,
Most professional players are using a full bed of co-poly string, or a natural gut/co-poly hybrid. The co-poly strings, such ALU Power, RPM Blast, Hyper-G, are low powered strings, which allow advanced players to take big cuts at the ball. The player's swing speed, and advanced technique, is what is causes the ball to come off the string at high velocity, and rotation.
Troy, TW
which tension do i use so that i can get power and half spin ............. plz tell me @tenniswarehouse
+debjyoti chakraborty ,
Tension is really a matter of personal preference, so you have to experiment around and find what works best for you. A good place to start though is right at the middle of the recommended tension range that's listed on your racquet. Try that and see how it works for you.
Andy, TW
Hi TW, can I string a Head racquet using one-piece vs 2-piece as recommended? Also, is there a trick stringing shared holes vs non-shared holes?
@cwstorm007,
With shared holes you just need to take special care not to get the string crossed in the grommet. Otherwise, string as usual.
As for the 1-piece vs. 2-piece question, almost every Head racquet is designed to be strung using the 2-piece method. I'd recommend using the 2-piece method on any Head frames, otherwise you could run into some problems.
Andy, TW
Andy I have a question. Recently, I learned how to string rackets on my own. I ordered a string(Luxilon Alu Power) in a pack which had 40 feet of string in it. The racket I strung was my wilson blade 104. I used the two-piece stringing method, so I cut the string in half. When I got to my last 2 mains, I didn't have enough string to tension either side, and I measured the mains string so it was definitely 20ft. I was wondering if the head size of the racket had anything to do with why I ran out of string before I could finish my mains? And if so, how many feet of string would you recommend to use for rackets with bigger headsizes?
Denzel Harris ,
Racquets with a larger head size or a tighter string pattern will require more string, but it's only a rare occasion that 40 feet is not enough string to cover the whole racquet. One pack of string should have been enough for your Blade 104. I'd maybe check if you used too much string for your starting knot at the crosses, which would then give you less string for the rest of your crosses. Also, you may find that saving a little bit MORE than half of your set of string for your crosses may be necessary.
Andy, TW
Hi Andy,
Great video, thanks for posting. Just a quick question: I was under the impression that the crosses need to be started near the throat to keep the pressure lowered on the frame. Is there a specific reason you started from the top of the frame? Thanks for your help and again, for posting this video. It's very helpful.
@crisptitanium,
On the contrary, the crosses should almost always start at the top of the frame. According to some research done by the USRSA, they've found that sometimes when you start the crosses near the throat, pressure can accumulate in the upper hoop that sometimes causes cracking in that area of the frame. We try to adhere to these USRSA findings as best we can with the racquets strung at TW.
Andy, TW
Tennis Warehouse Got it! Thanks so much for the explanation.
here's a question:I have been starting from the left side of the racquet doing 2-3 mains depending on pattern, tying it off in bottom left corner, and then stringing the rest of the racquet.
Can you think of any cons or issues doing it this way?
Thanks in advance,John R
+John R ,
If you string just one side of the racquet and then the other, then you will be placing uneven pressure on the frame and could potentially damage it. You want to string it as evenly as possible so that you're not putting too much stress on the racquet.
Andy, TW
I think I have been lucky but I bet if I played the law of averages I would end up damaging some this way. thanks for the feedback!
Hello tennis warehouse i have a question, how long can tennis string be stored in a reel? I have alu power rough and alu power normal from 5 years old is it okey to use it?
@ Nestor Rincon Soto,
As long as it wasn't stored in extreme conditions, the strings should be fine to use.
Andy, TW
This video was very informative and helpful. Unfortunately, shortly after stringing 3 weeks (maybe 10 hours of play) I broke a string. Are there a few common stringing errors that could cause a string to break so quickly?
It is hard to say for certain what the cause was, but first thing is make sure you aren't pinching the string too much when you clamp it. You might also be able to check the tension to see if it is pinching the string too much when it grabs the string, our manual Prince Neos 1000 you can adjust it, not sure if you can on an electronic machine. Also when you pull the tension on the last couple of main strings make sure to hold the grommet strip in place as you pull the string with the tensioner, if you don't it could cause the string to come in contact with the sharp edge of the drilled hole. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thank you! I will try these suggestions
Andy im wondering how one knows how much string to use for the main and crosses because you use different lengths no?
@Daniel Kim,
You'll want to use about 20 ft of string for both the mains and crosses. Once you get experience stringing your racquets you'll be able to dial in exactly how much string you'll need because it will vary from racquet to racquet.
Andy, TW
I have a gamma progression drop weight stringer. A friend checked the string tension on mains and crosses with a tension devise and my mains were relly close to the original set tension. but the crosses were really low. I set the tension on the stringer at 42 lbs. and the devise read fron 30-34. how can I fix this?
Drop weight stringers are notoriously difficult to calibrate and get the tension exactly right every time. If the tension was right for your mains it just sounds like you need to let the drop weight "drop" a little lower to get your desired tension. Since the tension was right on your mains, it doesn't sound like there's any issue with the calibration of the stringer.
Andy, TW
Nice - Ive been meaning to post a video - on this subject.
I string on a Babolat star 3 :) - got it for a steal
Good basics for stringing
which kind of the strings do you use in video clip mate? I use co-poly and those are rigid compared to yours.
@ xx,
I'm just using a basic multifilament in the video, but the process will be the same even if you are using a co-poly.
Andy, TW
Thank Andy,...yes...the process is the same...but I was dazzled with flexibility of the strings....mine are rigid...all polys are...
I been watching some videos on stringing and one says, after making the knot place tension on the knot, but in this video you just tied it. What is better to do, tie the knot and be done with it or add tension to the knot?
+Diamondeye ,
This becomes a stylistic difference, but we prefer to NOT apply tension to the knot before stringing the first cross because doing so could put too much pressure on the grommet that the knot is close to. By pulling tension on the first cross you will gently apply tension to the knot and not do damage to the grommets.
Andy, TW
@0:53 The Lock Bar engaged. Otherwise you can cause significant damage to the frame. How is damage caused?
@Covis KK,
Without that lock bar engaged, on machine such as the Prince NEOS 1000, the frame will compress and become rounded. This will either distort the frame shape, or cause the frame to crack while stringing it.
Troy, TW
Just to Clarify please.. The "Lock Bar" you mention is in other words The Table Brake which "locks the Racquet work station? Stops the table from rotating.? Are you talking about the 2 Racquet Clamps that head and throat.? That would definately damage the Racquet if either was not locked in. I have a Ektelon Machine.Hope I havn't confused you...
@Covis KK,
The lock bar stops the two racquet mounts from moving (for the head and throat, or 12 and 6 o'clock). Basically supporting the top and bottom of the racquet head, stopping it from collapsing under the pressure of pulling tension on the mains. There is another brake underneath the lock bar, that stops the table from rotating, if needed.
Troy, TW
Ahhh I see.... its the Locking lever that secures the adjustable Throat Post. Yer, if this wasn't locked down the Throat post would just move with the tension. Nice Vid by the way...Thanks
@Covis KK,
Thank you, and glad to help.
Troy, TW
This was fascinating to watch
I have a few questions. First, what is a good starting machine? Second, how often should you clamp? And third, can I use the same method with my Yonex dual g 100, or is it different regarding the string pattern?
@ Fernando Andrade,
For a starter machine, I'd look for a nice used crank-style machine. You should clamp every time you pull tension on a string. The method demonstrated above can certainly be used on your Yonex racquet. Andy, TW
Tennis Warehouse, would a crank-style be like the Klippermate?
Fernando Andrade ,
The Klippermate machine is a "drop weight" machine, meaning that you drop the weight at the end of a long rod in order to pull tension on the strings. This type of stringer certainly works fine for people once they get used to it, but crank or electric stringers will be more accurate and consistent. Andy, TW
Is there any tip for weaving the crosses faster or is it just practice? Thank you!
@ PapaALiu,
Practice, practice, practice!
Andy, TW
Check out the stringing machines sub-forum on Talk TW, it'll have more opinions than just one from the staff (which doesn't use either machine at TW specifically).
When you started, you clamped one of the middle strings by the throat...how do you pull tension on this string? Do you just pull tension with the clamp on it then move the clamp to the top of the racquet after pulling tension? Please reply thanks!
@ Adam Yu,
That's exactly how you'd do it.
Andy, TW
Do you have to premeasure the length of string required for each racquet? (I.e. if you have a full reel, would you have to measure out the length needed?)
@Jen,
Yes, if you have a reel of string, you need to measure the amount needed for one racquet. Most racquets will be somewhere between 35-40 feet of string. I will usually measure about 6.5-7 wingspans, of my arms spread out from fingertip to fingertip, depending on the racquet and string pattern.
Troy, TW
Hey Andy, I got a question about the knots. I normally do a different knot and I tension it with the machine with 18-20kg. Is that ok?
@Rai ou,
There are certainly other types of knots that you can use that will work fine, so if you're finding it's holding tension and not damaging your frame then by all means go for it. What I illustrates above is simply what I do and what Tennis Warehouse would recommend, which would also coincide with the USRSA. Just be careful tensioning it with the machine because it can pop the knot and also damage the frame. Pull very slowly and pay close attention.
Andy, TW
Wow thank you so much. I have asked some people but they don't want to teach me because then I won't have to need them to string my racquet.
Can someone tell me the reason for stringing two crosses at a time ? I am finding that confusing . Are you pulling tension on both strings or just one of them ? I have read some of your previous answers as you say it makes weaving easier , but could you explain why and how it makes weaving easier ?
Thanks Ollie
We prefer to use a pre-weave. So basically weave the first cross, pull it all the way through, so it's ready to be pulled by the tension mechanism, and then weave the next cross through, but leave it loose. Then use the crank or motor to tension that first cross, clamp it, then start pulling the second cross through, and pre-weave your third. We find to be pretty efficient this way. Also we pull tension on the second cross when using a starting knot, trying not to smash the grommet too much. Or if you use a starting clamp, then you can pull directly on the first cross, or second, it doesn't really matter because you are going to re-tension that first cross anyway, at the end, to get rid of the starting clamp. If that is too confusing, search starting crosses with a starting clamp, and a video should clear it up. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks very much for your detailed response Troy , that does now make sense to me . I'm doing my first restring Tommorow so just brushing up on as much knowledge as possible .
Cheers
@Alan Kakinami about 3/4 hours the first time , because I really slowed down the process to appreciate each part, and did the knots a few times .
I've got it down to below 2 now , but I like to take my time , because I actually enjoy the process of stringing , with a podcast on and chilling out.
Thankyou for these tips!!! Neen great! How much is that stringing mach your using??
@harry rodell,
We are using a Prince NEOS 1000, and you can check it out on our website here:
www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_NEOS_1000_Stringing_Machine/descpagePRINCE-NEOS.html
Andy, TW
@Eric Morales,
It's just a basic synthetic gut.
Michelle, TW
I have strung alot of rackets. I strung one racket today. But on the last cross I skipped one main if you know what I mean. You think this will effect my tennis game? On the last cross I only has my dampener.@tenniswarehouse
+Snomann98 ,
Your misweave shouldn't affect the performance of the racquet very much, if at all. Try it and see what you think.
Andy, TW
Haha the strings hold one day. I hit a wrong shot =P Time for stringing a new racket Tennis Warehouse
Ok so I have an issue I recently received a gift and it's was the Wilson Ultra 110 but it was unstrung it didn't have any strings and didn't come with any and I don't know how to put in the strings for example do I need the machine being used in the video? And I don't know what string to buy, it only says it's 16x18 but I'm honestly a bit clueless when it come to this stuff. The last racket I bought was in store so it had the strings already. Lastly it was sent from Wilson does Wilson regularly send rackets without strings or is it an error? Sorry if this is long I just don't know what to do. Please respond I'd appreciate the response.
You will need to take your racquet to a stringer and have it strung. You can buy the string from the stringer or you can buy from us. I would recommend a string such as this: Wilson Sensation 16 String $9.95. www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-SEN16.html
Sensation is a nice affordable performance string. There will also be a labor charge for the installation of the string (yes, you need a stringing machine to install it). A tension of 55 lbs is pretty middle of the road and should serve you well. Check at the local tennis clubs for a stringer as most have one and you will get a better string job than at most big box general sporting goods stores. Cheers, Chris, TW