We pull 2 crosses at once ONLY for the first 2 crosses because if we did pull tension on that first cross, it can either break the knot or pull the knot through the grommet. Every other cross, you will pull tension on. Hope that helps. Jason, TW
Andy, your stringing skills are crazy awesome, I like the way you tie off on the mains using the special loop ,and the way you weave the crosses. Keep up the excellent work!
@Prabhath Mannam, As simple as it sounds, the first thing that we do is just to clean the clamp. Use rubbing alcohol and a towel to clean the rod that extends down into the stringer, as it can sometimes get slick when it is dirty. See if that fixes the problem (it usually does for us) and if it doesn't, call our customer service number and they can walk you through a few more things that may help. Andy, TW
i have the mains done and i'm most of the way through the crosses. but with the mains tightened, they are almost fully covering one of the cross grommets on the outside, how do i get around this please?
@ Daniel Espinosa, By weaving one cross ahead, it lowers the strings and makes it easier to weave. As for your knots, I prefer to use the starting knot for my, well, starting knot, as it sits more flush and holds a little better when pulling tension on it. Andy, TW
Let me just say that this was BY FAR the most clearly explained stringing video I've seen. Even though I already know how to string, this allowed me to re-evaluate my methods to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. As always great videos from TennisWarehouse.
@ Maciek Wywijas, Most Prince racquets will have a "short side", which only pertains to you if you are using a one-piece method. If you do, make sure your short side is the one indicated on the racquet, or else the port grommet system won't line up properly. Andy, TW
@Andy Lin, Pulling tension every string assures the tension is correct and consistent across the stringbed. The less you pull tension (like doing it every 2 strings), the less consistent the tension will be throughout the stringbed. As for pulling tension on the crosses, if you pull tension on the string immediately before the one you are about to weave (like what you're suggesting), the string is lifted in such a way that it makes it more difficult to weave. If you pull tension on the string two previous to what you're about to weave (like we instruct), the strings are lifted in such a way that it helps you weave more easily. Andy, TW
The reason we do this to prevent two things from happening. One, pulling the starting knot through the grommet. And two, not putting that much pressure on the knot that it breaks. Jason, TW
Can you guys show us how to do your starting knot but with polyester string? It's so hard to do that cleanly with a poly because those strings are much stiffer than multis or gut
@Michael Flanigan, Any racquet can be strung using the two piece method while only some racquets are recommended to be strung using a one piece method. You can certainly string your racquet using the two piece method. Andy, TW
Thanks for doijg a slow moyion om yhe eqsy bit and completely fast forwarding through the all important starting bit ( getting the tension on the firat teo strings) i needed to see.
Hi Andy, could you also show us a link or your videos guide to knots in general, thx. Your video on stringing was the best from the others that I viewed, very clear and easy to understand after watching it a few times. Keep up the good work.
Andy is out playing a tennis tournament. So I'll jump in here. A drop weight machine will string a racquet 4-6% higher than a crank machine. Both machines have their advantages and disadvantages. Crank machines are faster but drop weights are cheaper and pull tension more true. Jason, TW
I strung my first one and it was a big fail because I watched other instructions on here...I watched this video before my second one and it all made perfect sense!!! It was done better than the place we used to take it to!! Thanks, Andy!!!
@Pallavan POLO, Both of those strings are going to offer excellent control, spin and durability, and by stringing them at a low enough tension you'll get power and comfort too. I'd recommend going with ALU Power as it will be livelier and easier on your arm. Try it at 53 lbs and see what you think. Andy, TW
I'd also recommend checking out the message boards through TW, the Strings/Stringing Machines & Techniques sub-forums are extremely useful (check the stickies!) when selecting machines.
@@RawDogTV well, to me its not worth waiting days for it to be strung, and near me there is absolutely noone who strings racquets. closest is dicks sporting goods 25 mins away and you have to drop it off and go back
@@AlanGonzalez-ev6ur Yeah, I started stringing 5 years ago and it was the best decision I've ever made. You can really save a lot of time and have full control over experimenting with hybrids (at will). Plus I string for others and make some side money for buying more strings for myself.
@ Simone Brazzi, I didn't use the Parnell knot simply because it's not the style I'm used to using, nor do we use it here at TW. It works just fine though, so to each their own! As for the starting clamp, same thing. It's just not how we do it here at TW, but it certainly works. Andy, TW
Hello, nice video. I would like to ask a question: How long (meters) do the two pieces of string individually have to be for a mid size plus racket in order to have the least amount of overrun? I'm using reels. Thank you.
Hi Tennis Warehouse. How do you know when your clamps are positioned too tightly for strings? I also wanted to know if clamp marks is something to be worried about on a string, and if there's anything I can do about it.
@Andrew Hoang, The clamp marks on the string is just from the clamp being tight, and there isn't anything you can do about it other than loosening the grips of the clamps. You don't really want them to mark the strings, but it is important that they hold the strings and you don't lose tension. Find a nice balance between clamping the strings so tight that they mark but tight enough that they don't slip or lose tension when releasing your tension head. Andy, TW
Hi, thanks for video! I have reels of string so they do not come with the labeling tape used to put the date, type of string and poundage...what type of tape do you use?
Check out the stringing machines sub-forum on Talk TW, it'll have more opinions than just one from the staff (which doesn't use either machine at TW specifically).
@ Dan Liutikas, The NEOS has a two-point mounting system, whereas the Gamma has a 6-point. They also have different types of clamps. I prefer the NEOS simply because it's what I'm used to, and I'm faster and more efficient on it. Some people prefer the Gamma's mounting system and clamps because they find them more secure. The Wise unit is definitely a nice piece but is not necessary to produce tension consistently. Andy, TW
Thanks for the video! I've been able to string my mains easily, but I'm having more difficulty with my crosses. They don't have much tension even though I'm stringing at 55lbs, and they also aren't straight. They tend to curve downwards and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
@EagleonFire, The crosses tend to be more difficult than the mains, as it takes a while to learn how to weave them quickly. The crosses will be a bit looser than the mains as it is not a straight pull like the mains, and the mains cause a bit of friction while pulling tension on the crosses. I will straighten out the crosses while I'm stringing them. Try to go back and straighten out the last couple of crosses, as you progress on to the next one. Troy, TW
Thank you for the reply... that makes sense about the starting knot. You STILL stay one weave "ahead" the rest of the way on the crosses through... (before pulling tension on the long "loop.") Is that to make it "easier" to weave?
Hey Tennis Warehouse, thanks for the video made things a lot easier. I was wondering if pulling tension every 2 strings makes a difference than how you do it every string
Oh and btw why don't you pull tension on the second string first and than start the third cross? You pull the third cross first before pulling tension and that looks confusing is there a paticular reason why y'all do that
Awesome video. I'd like to learn how to string my own rackets, but first I need to buy a stringing machine. Is there one that you'd recommend for a beginner? Hopefully one that would provide consistent quality in terms of the tension of the string job.
@Johan Stampe, The top two crosses will typically feel loose, because of pulling on two strings at the same time, on the cross start-knot. One way to help with that, is to use a starting clamp to hold tension for your crosses, which clamps the string from the outside of your frame, on the bumper guard. You would then string all your crosses and go back to tie off the top knot at the end. I would recommend pulling your bottom cross a couple pounds tighter, to help keep it from feeling loose. If you have not learned the Champion’s knot, I recommend it. I have found it to be best at reducing tension loss at tie off. Troy, TW
Hi Tennis Warehouse! I was wondering when you guys string one piece jobs, like on demos for example, do you string the crosses bottom up? Or so you have a specific one piece stringing method that allows for you to string top to bottom? Thanks in advance!
flamingrubix , There's a general rule of thumb that you want to string your crosses from top to bottom. If the mains end at the bottom, then the racquet should almost always be strung as a 2 piece. If the mains end at the top then it can be done as either a 1 or 2 piece. Andy, TW
This video was very informative and helpful. Unfortunately, shortly after stringing 3 weeks (maybe 10 hours of play) I broke a string. Are there a few common stringing errors that could cause a string to break so quickly?
It is hard to say for certain what the cause was, but first thing is make sure you aren't pinching the string too much when you clamp it. You might also be able to check the tension to see if it is pinching the string too much when it grabs the string, our manual Prince Neos 1000 you can adjust it, not sure if you can on an electronic machine. Also when you pull the tension on the last couple of main strings make sure to hold the grommet strip in place as you pull the string with the tensioner, if you don't it could cause the string to come in contact with the sharp edge of the drilled hole. Troy, TW
I'm very grateful for this tutorial inasmuch as I can say (and mean it) 'this is how I learned to string.' Real gratitude here. However, there is a point of UNemphasis (or rather insufficient emphasis) regarding the top and bottom 3 crosses. As I first absorbed the video, the guidance was 'Over, Under, Over, Under' at the outset, that if you held to that throughout - from head to throat - you'd be fine. But that isn't quite right. For the first and last three crosses, you hold to either an Over or Under start on each side (right or left). So if you start Under on the right, then all 3 of the first 3 crosses on the right are Under. After you clear the 3rd grommet, then Over-Under applies throughout the middle section. Same for the bottom 3 crosses. A point of clarification. Still love what Andy did here.
@ marlounb, This Prince NEOS 1000 is a great one to check out! It's accurate, simple and easy to use. For better accuracy, look into machines that have a crank or electronic tension system. Andy, TW
This was great! Quick question though. For the cross string do we do one string then the next with the tension puller then the next string without the puller and so on?
@ANNA KAMARUDDIN, For the cross strings, you always want to be one ahead of the one last tensioned. When you start the crosses, weave three crosses and then pull tension on the second one. From then on, always string one ahead and then pull tension on the previous one. For example, weave your fourth cross and then pull tension on the third. Then, weave the fifth and pull tension on the fourth, and so on. Andy, TW
Hey Andy great tips on stringing the racket, I got a Wilson triumph Roland Garros 1 piece string , 2 knot , can you let me know how much length of string I need? Regards. Giuseppe
Hi Andy, I have a question about my racket clamp on my Prince neos 1000. My mounting clamp for the head of my racket seems loose. Do you know how I can tighten this? Thanks.
Hey Andy, could you comment on crank vs. dropweight stringers, in terms of tension accuracy/consistency? I'm thinking about picking up a stringer for personal use and I'm debating which kind I'd want. Thanks!
Great video Andy, watched a few and yours is the one that gives me confidence I can do this. I'll be keeping you to hand when I do my first stringing job :)
Ive got it andy thank you so much i had to do the mains again and i had to really carefull open the 8th hole because since i guess the racquet was king of new the hole was really small. I appreciate the quick answer and help take care man
For most electronic stringing machines, there is a tie off function, where if you hit the button it will increase the tension by about 10% for one pull. You could also do this on a manual machine, by changing tension manually when pulling on the last strings before tie offs, just don't forget to change it back. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks for that Troy , I have been pulling 10% extra tension on the last two mains on each side and the first two and last two crossess.... However I am now going to change this to your suggestions
Hi Andy, Great video, thanks for posting. Just a quick question: I was under the impression that the crosses need to be started near the throat to keep the pressure lowered on the frame. Is there a specific reason you started from the top of the frame? Thanks for your help and again, for posting this video. It's very helpful.
@crisptitanium, On the contrary, the crosses should almost always start at the top of the frame. According to some research done by the USRSA, they've found that sometimes when you start the crosses near the throat, pressure can accumulate in the upper hoop that sometimes causes cracking in that area of the frame. We try to adhere to these USRSA findings as best we can with the racquets strung at TW. Andy, TW
Thanks for the video. Quick question on changing sides on the mains. It is not clear since you speed the video up. You have a clamp set on the first right main at the bottom of the racket - the first clamp you set (@2:19). When you switch sides after the first three on the left, do you simply pull the tension against this clamp, then reset the clamp? This doesn't seem ideal. Or do you use a 3rd floating clamp st against the frame temporarily when moving that fixed clamp?
@chubby 00, After pulling the tension on the first three mains on the left, we then pull the first main on the right, directly against that clamp. Then move the clamp from the bottom of the racquet to the top, on that same first main string. Troy, TW
I have no clue why you double pulled the cross strings. You have inaccurate tension when doing that. One string is looser than the other. To get accurate tension you always pull one string at a time.
Hey Andy, this was pretty solid video on how to string a racquet. The knots you did on the mains were excellent and you had the correct method for weaving the crosses. There are just a few things I would change: 1. You didn't use a starting clamp. These should always be used because when you pull the first main it puts the most stress on the frame and also pulls the string the hardest. By using a starting clamp, it will help prevent the string from slipping and damaging it. 2. The way you made your starting knot for the crosses was bulky. It's not necessary for you to go around the main 3 times, 2 will suffice. By only going around twice, it makes the knot a little smaller, but just as effective as well as more aesthetically pleasing. 3. You should always increase the tension when tying the knots. Contrary to what people may think, it will not damage the frame or grommets and will aid in maintaining the desired tension. I usually go up 10% of the given tension. The only way someone would damage the frame or grommets is if they didn't know what they were doing when increasing the tension. 4. Going back to the starting knot, I noticed that you doubled pulled the first 2 crosses, which is a big no-no. Pulling tension on the first cross will not compromise the integrity of the frame and will help synch the knot more flush to the racquet as well as help with tension maintenance. They only way the knot will slip through the grommet is if the grommet is too wide or if the stringer doesn't know what they're doing. 5. Lastly, a one piece won't affect the integrity of the racquet. While it is true that if you're going to use a 2 piece that you have to start at the top, it's just a personal preference when it comes to using a 1 or 2 piece. Both will work fine. Again, this was a good video Andy. Big fan of tennis warehouse!
Southernfratstar , Thanks for the kind words and we appreciate the feedback. While there are many different "correct" ways to string a racquet, I wanted to demonstrate the way that we string racquets here at Tennis Warehouse which is also in accordance with the USRSA's requirements for a "properly" strung racquet. Andy, TW
Definitely agree on point #3. This naturally struck me as wrong even as someone who has never strung a racquet. If the point of tension is before the excess and the knot, when you release the clamp the string is going to drop below the desired tension leading to inaccuracy.
I know they are both quality units, but can you share your preference between NEOS 1500 and Gamma 6004 please and why? Also, is Wise pull unit a worthwhile addon for tension accuracy?
I understand the concept of this like 95%. I have same stringer and am stringing my mains at 54 lbs. I am going slow and going opposing string by string to spread the tension but keep cracking racquets on the final main. I cracked two rackets now and am not sure what is going wrong. I calibrated my neos and don't want to drop the tension so low that is not right to play with. Trying to learn to to string my sons rackets. Thanks, Tennis Dad
@ Tennis Dad, Make sure that the racquet is mounted properly and securely on the stringer, and be sure that the lock bar is in the locked position. If the racquet is mounted securely you should be able to use high tensions and it shouldn't compromise the racquet. Andy, TW
Would I be able to string a wilson prostaff 6.0 85 original with a two piece stringing method? I am only asking this because your site says that it has a one piece stringing method used.
Hello Andy. Great video, but I was wondering if I can use the method that you use in this video on my wilson blade 98s (18x16)?, because when I click on my racket on your website it says "one piece" under stringing pattern :)
@harry rodell, We are using a Prince NEOS 1000, and you can check it out on our website here: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_NEOS_1000_Stringing_Machine/descpagePRINCE-NEOS.html Andy, TW
S U P E R useful vid, thanks! Can you recommend stringing machines and are they compatible to every racket type? Is a low budget machine (under 500 US = EUR 430) automatically bad? What do I have to pay attention to when buying a machine?
@Wolfgang Markus Gstrein, Most stringing machines will work for a wide variety of racquets. We primarily use the Prince NEOS 1000, as it is a very durable machine, and relatively easy to maintain. Most of the machines under $500 (USD), are drop weight. These are sufficient to string a racquet, but we prefer to use a lock-out, or a crank machine, as is the Prince NEOS 1000. Furthermore, the Prince NEOS 1000 has a 2-point mount. Machines that have a 6-point mount tend to be better for the frame, as they reduce the amount of stress, and bending of the frame during stringing. A couple machines that have a 6-point mount, and a lock-out tension mechanism, are the Gamma Progression ST II, and Alpha Revo 4000 stringing machines. Troy, TW
Hi Andy. My racket of choice is the Wilson Burn 100 and on the website it says to use the one piece method, but is it okay to use the two piece method? Thanks
Also wondering about the reason for "waiting" to put tension on the crosses, instead of just tensioning them one at a time like you do on the mains.(?)
Inserting an UNWAXED awl into a tie-off hole is a last resort to get your second string in. If you nick that tensioned main it will break and you have to start over. Cut your second string at a very sharp angle, put some wax on the end of it and use your pliers to push it into the hole. Always a good idea to widen your tie-off holes with a waxed awl before you start stringing it; especially on a new frame!
Hi, I wanted to know, which is a good start up stringing machine. There are so many advertised in tennis magazines. I want your opinion, thx for the great video. Reza
Reza Peera , We use (and really like) the Prince NEOS 1000 pictured in the video above. They are simple to use, reliable and not too expensive. Gamma also makes a number of very good machines. Andy, TW
Great video Tennis Warehouse. I am looking to buy a stringing machine and I can't decide between the Prince Neos 1000 and the Prince Neos 1500. Are there any major differences besides the price, and which one would you recommend? I am also wondering if either of the machines come with any tools like the awl, pliers, and clippers? Thanks
@Dave Nash, The 1500 is a little newer model and features a different clamp and mounting system. It is newer but what one thinks is better is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the 1000 but many experienced stringers prefer the 1500. It really is up to you, but you will still get a mighty fine machine if you go with the 1000. All of them should come with all the tools you need to get started! Andy, TW
+Derrick Lee , You want to avoid "kinking" natural gut string as it could lead to pre-mature breakage once you start playing with it. One way to help deal with this is to pre-stretch the string before you start stringing in order to help get rid of some of the coil memory from the string sitting in the package. Check out our How to Pre-Stretch video for more information on how to do this. Andy, TW
@Johan Melander, We find the fixed clamps on this Prince NEOS 1000 machine, to hold their position, and help achieve a more accurate tension, compared to using floating clamps. Troy, TW
Is it important for the clamps to be mounted to the stringing machine or can i just clamp them to the string in the air close to the frame so it doesnt move? I'm asking that because I am looking for a stringing machine right now and there is a electric machine with no clamps attached to it and no rail for it. Also there is a stringing machine with a crank like used in the video with rails and clamps mounted to the machine. Which one should i get and what are the pros and cons of both the machines? I only want to string for me and maybe 3 friends or so, no business.
For machines that do not have mounted clamps, you will typically have to use floating clamps, like these: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Gamma_Composite_Floating_Clamp/descpageGAMMA-GFCLAMP.html. That type of machine may even include them, that said, they can definitely do the job, but don't hold the tension quite as well, specifically near the tie-off locations. The crank machines, or lock-out machines, don't have the constant pull function like most electronic ones, but they are pretty reliable, relatively easy to maintain, and the fixed clamps with the rails are always pretty useful, and reliable. It sounds like the crank machine would be best for what you will be using it for. The electronic machines are nice, but without the mounted clamps, I would probably steer you towards the crank machine. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse Okey thank you very much, i cleared my mind and thought this was the best solution too, looking forward to string some rackets in the near future :)
@phillip391984, We may be doing further instructional stringing videos in the future, and if so, we will be sure to explain the one-piece method. I used the two-piece method in the video because it is more universal. Any racquet can be strung using a two-piece method, but only some can be done using a one-piece method. Furthermore, if you are looking to string in a hybrid setup, you must do it using the two-piece method. Andy, TW
dick peterson , This method will work on any stringer. The only thing that may vary between stringers is how to pull tension - whether it's a drop weight, crank pull (like the video) or electric. Clamping the string as shown in the video will indeed hold the tension. Andy, TW
Andy I have a question. Recently, I learned how to string rackets on my own. I ordered a string(Luxilon Alu Power) in a pack which had 40 feet of string in it. The racket I strung was my wilson blade 104. I used the two-piece stringing method, so I cut the string in half. When I got to my last 2 mains, I didn't have enough string to tension either side, and I measured the mains string so it was definitely 20ft. I was wondering if the head size of the racket had anything to do with why I ran out of string before I could finish my mains? And if so, how many feet of string would you recommend to use for rackets with bigger headsizes?
Denzel Harris , Racquets with a larger head size or a tighter string pattern will require more string, but it's only a rare occasion that 40 feet is not enough string to cover the whole racquet. One pack of string should have been enough for your Blade 104. I'd maybe check if you used too much string for your starting knot at the crosses, which would then give you less string for the rest of your crosses. Also, you may find that saving a little bit MORE than half of your set of string for your crosses may be necessary. Andy, TW
You ought to do a video on how to do the One piece method. From what I’ve heard, it holds tension better than the 2 piece method, obviously not true with hybrids. Not sure how true this is, but it’d be nice to see how it’s done regardless.
@cwstorm007, With shared holes you just need to take special care not to get the string crossed in the grommet. Otherwise, string as usual. As for the 1-piece vs. 2-piece question, almost every Head racquet is designed to be strung using the 2-piece method. I'd recommend using the 2-piece method on any Head frames, otherwise you could run into some problems. Andy, TW
We pull 2 crosses at once ONLY for the first 2 crosses because if we did pull tension on that first cross, it can either break the knot or pull the knot through the grommet. Every other cross, you will pull tension on. Hope that helps.
Jason, TW
Then why not (no pun intended) use the same knot to start the cross strings that you did to tie off the main strings? That know will not pull thru.
Great video, thanks! So just to confirm, you can pull tension on the second cross and it tensions both the first and second crosses?
Andy, your stringing skills are crazy awesome, I like the way you tie off on the mains using the special loop ,and the way you weave the crosses. Keep up the excellent work!
@Prabhath Mannam,
As simple as it sounds, the first thing that we do is just to clean the clamp. Use rubbing alcohol and a towel to clean the rod that extends down into the stringer, as it can sometimes get slick when it is dirty. See if that fixes the problem (it usually does for us) and if it doesn't, call our customer service number and they can walk you through a few more things that may help.
Andy, TW
i have the mains done and i'm most of the way through the crosses. but with the mains tightened, they are almost fully covering one of the cross grommets on the outside, how do i get around this please?
So helpful! I always have to rewatch since its like 3 months between stringing my own racquets. Thank you guys!
@ Daniel Espinosa,
By weaving one cross ahead, it lowers the strings and makes it easier to weave. As for your knots, I prefer to use the starting knot for my, well, starting knot, as it sits more flush and holds a little better when pulling tension on it.
Andy, TW
Let me just say that this was BY FAR the most clearly explained stringing video I've seen. Even though I already know how to string, this allowed me to re-evaluate my methods to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. As always great videos from TennisWarehouse.
Holy crap are there classes on this?
@ Maciek Wywijas,
Most Prince racquets will have a "short side", which only pertains to you if you are using a one-piece method. If you do, make sure your short side is the one indicated on the racquet, or else the port grommet system won't line up properly.
Andy, TW
@Andy Lin,
Pulling tension every string assures the tension is correct and consistent across the stringbed. The less you pull tension (like doing it every 2 strings), the less consistent the tension will be throughout the stringbed. As for pulling tension on the crosses, if you pull tension on the string immediately before the one you are about to weave (like what you're suggesting), the string is lifted in such a way that it makes it more difficult to weave. If you pull tension on the string two previous to what you're about to weave (like we instruct), the strings are lifted in such a way that it helps you weave more easily.
Andy, TW
The reason we do this to prevent two things from happening. One, pulling the starting knot through the grommet. And two, not putting that much pressure on the knot that it breaks.
Jason, TW
Can you guys show us how to do your starting knot but with polyester string? It's so hard to do that cleanly with a poly because those strings are much stiffer than multis or gut
@Michael Flanigan,
Any racquet can be strung using the two piece method while only some racquets are recommended to be strung using a one piece method. You can certainly string your racquet using the two piece method.
Andy, TW
Thank you, Andy for your helpful tips on stringing a tennis racquet. Strung my first few racquets and will be testing them out tomorrow.
@Stephen Yung,
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Andy, TW
Thanks for doijg a slow moyion om yhe eqsy bit and completely fast forwarding through the all important starting bit ( getting the tension on the firat teo strings) i needed to see.
ruclips.net/video/0fcQMGRHY4Y/видео.html I have found this video super helpful; he goes really slowly
Hi Andy, could you also show us a link or your videos guide to knots in general, thx. Your video on stringing was the best from the others that I viewed, very clear and easy to understand after watching it a few times.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. My racket is now strung! Hopefully I can figure out the knots....
Andy is out playing a tennis tournament. So I'll jump in here. A drop weight machine will string a racquet 4-6% higher than a crank machine. Both machines have their advantages and disadvantages. Crank machines are faster but drop weights are cheaper and pull tension more true.
Jason, TW
I strung my first one and it was a big fail because I watched other instructions on here...I watched this video before my second one and it all made perfect sense!!! It was done better than the place we used to take it to!! Thanks, Andy!!!
@chase60now,
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed the video and helped you learn how to string!
Andy, TW
@Pallavan POLO,
Both of those strings are going to offer excellent control, spin and durability, and by stringing them at a low enough tension you'll get power and comfort too. I'd recommend going with ALU Power as it will be livelier and easier on your arm. Try it at 53 lbs and see what you think.
Andy, TW
Well that is neat. I watched John McEnroe answers questions on Twitter about tennis which brought me to watch this. That looks very relaxing.
The best stringing video I have seen, concise and easy to follow. Thank you!
Hey Andy , many thanks for the replay. Giuseppe
I'd also recommend checking out the message boards through TW, the Strings/Stringing Machines & Techniques sub-forums are extremely useful (check the stickies!) when selecting machines.
@ josiah sibayan,
Practice makes perfect!
Andy, TW
Yup! You're right. We stay one weave ahead to help make weaving easier.
Thanks for the video. Strung my first two racquets with these instructions and the 2nd racquet plays great! (1st time...eh...)
@Jeff Lin,
Practice makes perfect! Glad you liked the video!
Andy, TW
Can you make a video using a one piece method?
Here’s One on the one piece method if you’re still looking!
ruclips.net/video/njlq7L1fsZY/видео.html
Nice - Ive been meaning to post a video - on this subject.
I string on a Babolat star 3 :) - got it for a steal
Good basics for stringing
... yeah nice video and very helpful... but I think I’ll just pay the $15-20 extra bucks lol, but nice video though
lol i was the same way but you save a lot of money stringing your own
@@brandentelle-marty3556 how cheap are you man lol
@@RawDogTV well, to me its not worth waiting days for it to be strung, and near me there is absolutely noone who strings racquets. closest is dicks sporting goods 25 mins away and you have to drop it off and go back
@@AlanGonzalez-ev6ur Yeah, I started stringing 5 years ago and it was the best decision I've ever made. You can really save a lot of time and have full control over experimenting with hybrids (at will). Plus I string for others and make some side money for buying more strings for myself.
@@RawDogTV chill bro its not that deep
@ Simone Brazzi,
I didn't use the Parnell knot simply because it's not the style I'm used to using, nor do we use it here at TW. It works just fine though, so to each their own! As for the starting clamp, same thing. It's just not how we do it here at TW, but it certainly works.
Andy, TW
Wow thank you so much. I have asked some people but they don't want to teach me because then I won't have to need them to string my racquet.
Andy,very informative and easy to follow instructions. Thank you!
I would like a video with the one piece stringing method. Cheers.
Here’s one on the one piece method if you’re still looking!
ruclips.net/video/njlq7L1fsZY/видео.html
WIth shared holes, it means you will string a main and cross string through 1 hole. Just string normally, as you do with any other racquet.
Jason, TW
Great tutorial. Thanks, Andy!
I don't even play tennis
Hello, nice video. I would like to ask a question: How long (meters) do the two pieces of string individually have to be for a mid size plus racket in order to have the least amount of overrun? I'm using reels. Thank you.
Hi Tennis Warehouse. How do you know when your clamps are positioned too tightly for strings? I also wanted to know if clamp marks is something to be worried about on a string, and if there's anything I can do about it.
@Andrew Hoang,
The clamp marks on the string is just from the clamp being tight, and there isn't anything you can do about it other than loosening the grips of the clamps. You don't really want them to mark the strings, but it is important that they hold the strings and you don't lose tension. Find a nice balance between clamping the strings so tight that they mark but tight enough that they don't slip or lose tension when releasing your tension head.
Andy, TW
Hi, thanks for video! I have reels of string so they do not come with the labeling tape used to put the date, type of string and poundage...what type of tape do you use?
Check out the stringing machines sub-forum on Talk TW, it'll have more opinions than just one from the staff (which doesn't use either machine at TW specifically).
@ Dan Liutikas,
The NEOS has a two-point mounting system, whereas the Gamma has a 6-point. They also have different types of clamps. I prefer the NEOS simply because it's what I'm used to, and I'm faster and more efficient on it. Some people prefer the Gamma's mounting system and clamps because they find them more secure. The Wise unit is definitely a nice piece but is not necessary to produce tension consistently.
Andy, TW
Nice looking racket too.
Thanks for the video! I've been able to string my mains easily, but I'm having more difficulty with my crosses. They don't have much tension even though I'm stringing at 55lbs, and they also aren't straight. They tend to curve downwards and I can't figure out why. Any suggestions?
@EagleonFire,
The crosses tend to be more difficult than the mains, as it takes a while to learn how to weave them quickly. The crosses will be a bit looser than the mains as it is not a straight pull like the mains, and the mains cause a bit of friction while pulling tension on the crosses. I will straighten out the crosses while I'm stringing them. Try to go back and straighten out the last couple of crosses, as you progress on to the next one.
Troy, TW
Thank you for the reply... that makes sense about the starting knot.
You STILL stay one weave "ahead" the rest of the way on the crosses through... (before pulling tension on the long "loop.") Is that to make it "easier" to weave?
Hey Tennis Warehouse, thanks for the video made things a lot easier. I was wondering if pulling tension every 2 strings makes a difference than how you do it every string
Oh and btw why don't you pull tension on the second string first and than start the third cross? You pull the third cross first before pulling tension and that looks confusing is there a paticular reason why y'all do that
Awesome video. I'd like to learn how to string my own rackets, but first I need to buy a stringing machine. Is there one that you'd recommend for a beginner? Hopefully one that would provide consistent quality in terms of the tension of the string job.
great instructions... thank you
Great video!
Why is my bottom and top two or tree crosses always completely loose? I believe I'm following the video to perfection.
Thanks!
@Johan Stampe,
The top two crosses will typically feel loose, because of pulling on two strings at the same time, on the cross start-knot. One way to help with that, is to use a starting clamp to hold tension for your crosses, which clamps the string from the outside of your frame, on the bumper guard. You would then string all your crosses and go back to tie off the top knot at the end. I would recommend pulling your bottom cross a couple pounds tighter, to help keep it from feeling loose. If you have not learned the Champion’s knot, I recommend it. I have found it to be best at reducing tension loss at tie off.
Troy, TW
Johan Stampe: Do you use flying clamps?
they are tie off you can try adding weight to tie off so when it drops tension it drops to specification
thank you, great video.. btw, what about squash racket, I suppose they should be the same.. and any info about stringing those teardrops racquet?
This was fascinating to watch
Wow, that was fantastic, thank you so much. Rich
Could you please make a video just on how to do the 1 piece stringing pattern?
@Dorian Howell,
Thanks for the suggestion. We will keep it in mind for the future.
Andy, TW
Tennis Warehouse Many people would be grateful if you did that
Yes please +
Its very easy
Tennis Warehouse u still haven’t done it
Hi Tennis Warehouse! I was wondering when you guys string one piece jobs, like on demos for example, do you string the crosses bottom up? Or so you have a specific one piece stringing method that allows for you to string top to bottom? Thanks in advance!
flamingrubix ,
There's a general rule of thumb that you want to string your crosses from top to bottom. If the mains end at the bottom, then the racquet should almost always be strung as a 2 piece. If the mains end at the top then it can be done as either a 1 or 2 piece.
Andy, TW
Very nice. You guys are Super good!
This video was very informative and helpful. Unfortunately, shortly after stringing 3 weeks (maybe 10 hours of play) I broke a string. Are there a few common stringing errors that could cause a string to break so quickly?
It is hard to say for certain what the cause was, but first thing is make sure you aren't pinching the string too much when you clamp it. You might also be able to check the tension to see if it is pinching the string too much when it grabs the string, our manual Prince Neos 1000 you can adjust it, not sure if you can on an electronic machine. Also when you pull the tension on the last couple of main strings make sure to hold the grommet strip in place as you pull the string with the tensioner, if you don't it could cause the string to come in contact with the sharp edge of the drilled hole. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thank you! I will try these suggestions
I like the promotion promo dire! It actually was a pretty decent video, a lot better idea than the speed stringing one.
how do you weave your crosses so quickly? i have trouble pushing the string between the mains.
I'm very grateful for this tutorial inasmuch as I can say (and mean it) 'this is how I learned to string.' Real gratitude here. However, there is a point of UNemphasis (or rather insufficient emphasis) regarding the top and bottom 3 crosses. As I first absorbed the video, the guidance was 'Over, Under, Over, Under' at the outset, that if you held to that throughout - from head to throat - you'd be fine. But that isn't quite right. For the first and last three crosses, you hold to either an Over or Under start on each side (right or left). So if you start Under on the right, then all 3 of the first 3 crosses on the right are Under. After you clear the 3rd grommet, then Over-Under applies throughout the middle section. Same for the bottom 3 crosses. A point of clarification. Still love what Andy did here.
@ marlounb,
This Prince NEOS 1000 is a great one to check out! It's accurate, simple and easy to use. For better accuracy, look into machines that have a crank or electronic tension system.
Andy, TW
This was great! Quick question though. For the cross string do we do one string then the next with the tension puller then the next string without the puller and so on?
@ANNA KAMARUDDIN,
For the cross strings, you always want to be one ahead of the one last tensioned. When you start the crosses, weave three crosses and then pull tension on the second one. From then on, always string one ahead and then pull tension on the previous one. For example, weave your fourth cross and then pull tension on the third. Then, weave the fifth and pull tension on the fourth, and so on.
Andy, TW
Hey Andy great tips on stringing the racket, I got a Wilson triumph Roland Garros 1 piece string , 2 knot , can you let me know how much length of string I need? Regards. Giuseppe
A regular set of string will work just fine for you. It will be 12.2m and you will have plenty of string to knot off etc.
Hi Andy, I have a question about my racket clamp on my Prince neos 1000. My mounting clamp for the head of my racket seems loose. Do you know how I can tighten this?
Thanks.
Stringing lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of racquets. :-)
Thanks a million! Great video by the way!
Hey Andy, could you comment on crank vs. dropweight stringers, in terms of tension accuracy/consistency? I'm thinking about picking up a stringer for personal use and I'm debating which kind I'd want. Thanks!
Perfect! Now if I could only afford a neos ;)
Great video Andy, watched a few and yours is the one that gives me confidence I can do this. I'll be keeping you to hand when I do my first stringing job :)
+Ali C ,
Glad to hear it...good luck!
Andy, TW
Ive got it andy thank you so much i had to do the mains again and i had to really carefull open the 8th hole because since i guess the racquet was king of new the hole was really small. I appreciate the quick answer and help take care man
Do you put extra tension on any particular strings to account for tension loss when tying of knots ? If so do you do this on crosses and mains ?
For most electronic stringing machines, there is a tie off function, where if you hit the button it will increase the tension by about 10% for one pull. You could also do this on a manual machine, by changing tension manually when pulling on the last strings before tie offs, just don't forget to change it back. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse thanks for that Troy , I have been pulling 10% extra tension on the last two mains on each side and the first two and last two crossess.... However I am now going to change this to your suggestions
Hi Andy,
Great video, thanks for posting. Just a quick question: I was under the impression that the crosses need to be started near the throat to keep the pressure lowered on the frame. Is there a specific reason you started from the top of the frame? Thanks for your help and again, for posting this video. It's very helpful.
@crisptitanium,
On the contrary, the crosses should almost always start at the top of the frame. According to some research done by the USRSA, they've found that sometimes when you start the crosses near the throat, pressure can accumulate in the upper hoop that sometimes causes cracking in that area of the frame. We try to adhere to these USRSA findings as best we can with the racquets strung at TW.
Andy, TW
Tennis Warehouse Got it! Thanks so much for the explanation.
@Eric Morales,
It's just a basic synthetic gut.
Michelle, TW
Thanks for the video. Quick question on changing sides on the mains. It is not clear since you speed the video up. You have a clamp set on the first right main at the bottom of the racket - the first clamp you set (@2:19). When you switch sides after the first three on the left, do you simply pull the tension against this clamp, then reset the clamp? This doesn't seem ideal. Or do you use a 3rd floating clamp st against the frame temporarily when moving that fixed clamp?
@chubby 00,
After pulling the tension on the first three mains on the left, we then pull the first main on the right, directly against that clamp. Then move the clamp from the bottom of the racquet to the top, on that same first main string.
Troy, TW
I have no clue why you double pulled the cross strings. You have inaccurate tension when doing that. One string is looser than the other. To get accurate tension you always pull one string at a time.
Hey Andy, this was pretty solid video on how to string a racquet. The knots you did on the mains were excellent and you had the correct method for weaving the crosses. There are just a few things I would change:
1. You didn't use a starting clamp. These should always be used because when you pull the first main it puts the most stress on the frame and also pulls the string the hardest. By using a starting clamp, it will help prevent the string from slipping and damaging it.
2. The way you made your starting knot for the crosses was bulky. It's not necessary for you to go around the main 3 times, 2 will suffice. By only going around twice, it makes the knot a little smaller, but just as effective as well as more aesthetically pleasing.
3. You should always increase the tension when tying the knots. Contrary to what people may think, it will not damage the frame or grommets and will aid in maintaining the desired tension. I usually go up 10% of the given tension. The only way someone would damage the frame or grommets is if they didn't know what they were doing when increasing the tension.
4. Going back to the starting knot, I noticed that you doubled pulled the first 2 crosses, which is a big no-no. Pulling tension on the first cross will not compromise the integrity of the frame and will help synch the knot more flush to the racquet as well as help with tension maintenance. They only way the knot will slip through the grommet is if the grommet is too wide or if the stringer doesn't know what they're doing.
5. Lastly, a one piece won't affect the integrity of the racquet. While it is true that if you're going to use a 2 piece that you have to start at the top, it's just a personal preference when it comes to using a 1 or 2 piece. Both will work fine.
Again, this was a good video Andy. Big fan of tennis warehouse!
Southernfratstar ,
Thanks for the kind words and we appreciate the feedback. While there are many different "correct" ways to string a racquet, I wanted to demonstrate the way that we string racquets here at Tennis Warehouse which is also in accordance with the USRSA's requirements for a "properly" strung racquet.
Andy, TW
Definitely agree on point #3. This naturally struck me as wrong even as someone who has never strung a racquet. If the point of tension is before the excess and the knot, when you release the clamp the string is going to drop below the desired tension leading to inaccuracy.
I know they are both quality units, but can you share your preference between NEOS 1500 and Gamma 6004 please and why? Also, is Wise pull unit a worthwhile addon for tension accuracy?
I understand the concept of this like 95%. I have same stringer and am stringing my mains at 54 lbs. I am going slow and going opposing string by string to spread the tension but keep cracking racquets on the final main. I cracked two rackets now and am not sure what is going wrong. I calibrated my neos and don't want to drop the tension so low that is not right to play with. Trying to learn to to string my sons rackets. Thanks, Tennis Dad
@ Tennis Dad,
Make sure that the racquet is mounted properly and securely on the stringer, and be sure that the lock bar is in the locked position. If the racquet is mounted securely you should be able to use high tensions and it shouldn't compromise the racquet.
Andy, TW
Would I be able to string a wilson prostaff 6.0 85 original with a two piece stringing method? I am only asking this because your site says that it has a one piece stringing method used.
Would the Yusuki method work on a drop weight with swivel clamps?
Hello Andy. Great video, but I was wondering if I can use the method that you use in this video on my wilson blade 98s (18x16)?, because when I click on my racket on your website it says "one piece" under stringing pattern :)
Thankyou for these tips!!! Neen great! How much is that stringing mach your using??
@harry rodell,
We are using a Prince NEOS 1000, and you can check it out on our website here:
www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_NEOS_1000_Stringing_Machine/descpagePRINCE-NEOS.html
Andy, TW
S U P E R useful vid, thanks!
Can you recommend stringing machines and are they compatible to every racket type? Is a low budget machine (under 500 US = EUR 430) automatically bad? What do I have to pay attention to when buying a machine?
@Wolfgang Markus Gstrein,
Most stringing machines will work for a wide variety of racquets. We primarily use the Prince NEOS 1000, as it is a very durable machine, and relatively easy to maintain. Most of the machines under $500 (USD), are drop weight. These are sufficient to string a racquet, but we prefer to use a lock-out, or a crank machine, as is the Prince NEOS 1000. Furthermore, the Prince NEOS 1000 has a 2-point mount. Machines that have a 6-point mount tend to be better for the frame, as they reduce the amount of stress, and bending of the frame during stringing. A couple machines that have a 6-point mount, and a lock-out tension mechanism, are the Gamma Progression ST II, and Alpha Revo 4000 stringing machines.
Troy, TW
hey andy, how about stringing Prince racquets? i heard they are special to stringing
Hi Andy.
My racket of choice is the Wilson Burn 100 and on the website it says to use the one piece method, but is it okay to use the two piece method?
Thanks
@Andrew Baek,
Yes, you can use the two-piece method for just about any tennis racquet.
Troy, TW
Thank you
Thanks andy
Weird stringer but it's actually real simple. Nt sure which stringer I use at work, some Wilson one
Can you give me a more specific link? I'm having a hard time trying to find the specification of the racquets that I have. Thanks
tennis-warehouse.com
u can also go on klippermate
thanx bro
Also wondering about the reason for "waiting" to put tension on the crosses, instead of just tensioning them one at a time like you do on the mains.(?)
Inserting an UNWAXED awl into a tie-off hole is a last resort to get your second string in. If you nick that tensioned main it will break and you have to start over. Cut your second string at a very sharp angle, put some wax on the end of it and use your pliers to push it into the hole. Always a good idea to widen your tie-off holes with a waxed awl before you start stringing it; especially on a new frame!
This is very good advice. We are taught this at TW.
Can you please make a one more video on how to string a racquet explained...
Hi, I wanted to know, which is a good start up stringing machine. There are so many advertised in tennis magazines. I want your opinion, thx for the great video.
Reza
Reza Peera ,
We use (and really like) the Prince NEOS 1000 pictured in the video above. They are simple to use, reliable and not too expensive. Gamma also makes a number of very good machines.
Andy, TW
Thank you very much for your time and quick response.
Great video Tennis Warehouse. I am looking to buy a stringing machine and I can't decide between the Prince Neos 1000 and the Prince Neos 1500. Are there any major differences besides the price, and which one would you recommend? I am also wondering if either of the machines come with any tools like the awl, pliers, and clippers? Thanks
@Dave Nash,
The 1500 is a little newer model and features a different clamp and mounting system. It is newer but what one thinks is better is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the 1000 but many experienced stringers prefer the 1500. It really is up to you, but you will still get a mighty fine machine if you go with the 1000. All of them should come with all the tools you need to get started!
Andy, TW
One question, at 5:50, what is the purpose of doing this method for the crosses as appose to just tensioning it the same as the mains?
For Natural Gut, what is something we should always keep in mind when stringing it?
+Derrick Lee ,
You want to avoid "kinking" natural gut string as it could lead to pre-mature breakage once you start playing with it. One way to help deal with this is to pre-stretch the string before you start stringing in order to help get rid of some of the coil memory from the string sitting in the package. Check out our How to Pre-Stretch video for more information on how to do this.
Andy, TW
Are clamps on a machine such as this one preferable to floating clamps when using a machine with a drop weight?? Would love some input!!!
@Johan Melander,
We find the fixed clamps on this Prince NEOS 1000 machine, to hold their position, and help achieve a more accurate tension, compared to using floating clamps.
Troy, TW
Thank you Troy!!! Much appreciated!!!
Is it important for the clamps to be mounted to the stringing machine or can i just clamp them to the string in the air close to the frame so it doesnt move?
I'm asking that because I am looking for a stringing machine right now and there is a electric machine with no clamps attached to it and no rail for it.
Also there is a stringing machine with a crank like used in the video with rails and clamps mounted to the machine.
Which one should i get and what are the pros and cons of both the machines?
I only want to string for me and maybe 3 friends or so, no business.
For machines that do not have mounted clamps, you will typically have to use floating clamps, like these: www.tennis-warehouse.com/Gamma_Composite_Floating_Clamp/descpageGAMMA-GFCLAMP.html. That type of machine may even include them, that said, they can definitely do the job, but don't hold the tension quite as well, specifically near the tie-off locations. The crank machines, or lock-out machines, don't have the constant pull function like most electronic ones, but they are pretty reliable, relatively easy to maintain, and the fixed clamps with the rails are always pretty useful, and reliable. It sounds like the crank machine would be best for what you will be using it for. The electronic machines are nice, but without the mounted clamps, I would probably steer you towards the crank machine. Troy, TW
@@tenniswarehouse Okey thank you very much, i cleared my mind and thought this was the best solution too, looking forward to string some rackets in the near future :)
Tennis Warehouse do you know any soft poly strings that would go along well with the aero pro drive racket used in the video? pl
@Carlos Vasquez,
A couple nice softer polys to try would be Dunlop Black Widow and Tourna Big Hitter Black 7.
Andy, TW
Thanks
Hello, TW. When I buy tennis rackets from you, I see it is strung 1piece method, can you make a video about it?
@phillip391984,
We may be doing further instructional stringing videos in the future, and if so, we will be sure to explain the one-piece method. I used the two-piece method in the video because it is more universal. Any racquet can be strung using a two-piece method, but only some can be done using a one-piece method. Furthermore, if you are looking to string in a hybrid setup, you must do it using the two-piece method.
Andy, TW
Will this method word on the Gamma Progression 602 stringer? Also, how does clamping only one string keep the tension (2:27)? Thank you!
dick peterson ,
This method will work on any stringer. The only thing that may vary between stringers is how to pull tension - whether it's a drop weight, crank pull (like the video) or electric. Clamping the string as shown in the video will indeed hold the tension.
Andy, TW
Andy I have a question. Recently, I learned how to string rackets on my own. I ordered a string(Luxilon Alu Power) in a pack which had 40 feet of string in it. The racket I strung was my wilson blade 104. I used the two-piece stringing method, so I cut the string in half. When I got to my last 2 mains, I didn't have enough string to tension either side, and I measured the mains string so it was definitely 20ft. I was wondering if the head size of the racket had anything to do with why I ran out of string before I could finish my mains? And if so, how many feet of string would you recommend to use for rackets with bigger headsizes?
Denzel Harris ,
Racquets with a larger head size or a tighter string pattern will require more string, but it's only a rare occasion that 40 feet is not enough string to cover the whole racquet. One pack of string should have been enough for your Blade 104. I'd maybe check if you used too much string for your starting knot at the crosses, which would then give you less string for the rest of your crosses. Also, you may find that saving a little bit MORE than half of your set of string for your crosses may be necessary.
Andy, TW
You ought to do a video on how to do the One piece method. From what I’ve heard, it holds tension better than the 2 piece method, obviously not true with hybrids. Not sure how true this is, but it’d be nice to see how it’s done regardless.
Jon Smith if you are still interested: ruclips.net/video/0fcQMGRHY4Y/видео.html this person does a very slow one piece method
Jeremy Oneill it was very helpful, thanks!
Hi TW, can I string a Head racquet using one-piece vs 2-piece as recommended? Also, is there a trick stringing shared holes vs non-shared holes?
@cwstorm007,
With shared holes you just need to take special care not to get the string crossed in the grommet. Otherwise, string as usual.
As for the 1-piece vs. 2-piece question, almost every Head racquet is designed to be strung using the 2-piece method. I'd recommend using the 2-piece method on any Head frames, otherwise you could run into some problems.
Andy, TW