I just bought two of these in thailand from lazada and i didnt previously see your clip, but i am happy to see this as its what i found out and I also see you use liitokala batteries, the older batteries I have AA and AAA are all dud (the green ones marked "BTY" and have probably been ruined by older version chargers but the Sony AA, AAA versions survived and were detected by the Liitokala charger you are showing. Thanks again a LOT :-) I am just moving away from "brainless" chargers to these newer versions....
I noticed when the charge current changes it doesn’t change the percentage of SOC or cell voltage. So are they calculating that without the voltage spike you get from adding a charge current or the reduction from reducing charge current. When you put the HG2’s in to show #4 drop from 2A to 500mA the voltage sat at 4.11V the whole time for cell #4. I also don’t care for the percentages they have chosen. Seems to be heavily grouped to 3.85 to 4.15. That should be more like 4.10 to 3.45 or so.
What should i do if my battery could not be charged with this charger? My battery issue or the charger issue?. It says null and i only have 1 battery i just bought from friend..
I have the LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500. Each cell will charge at 1A if that's what I want. I can select the amount of Ampere charge for each battery from 300mA to 1A. The charge AMPs aren't split as I insert 1, 2, 3 and 4 batteries.
On display, is it charging voltage or battery voltage. I don't why, but only 1800mAh is given for eneloop pro (discharged to 900-1000mV). When it's reconnected another 300mAh is given, and I think I can repeat and repeat it. Cells are not getting hot.
Use a multimeter and measure the voltage of batter under charge and then measure when charge is completed and batteries are connected see what is the maximum charge voltage.
A doubt. Does the charger always maintain the same electrical current? Or while the battery is charging will the current decrease? 500 mA is not a lot of electrical current for AAA Ni-MH 800 mAh batteries? My old sony charger (single charger) uses 200mA for all the batteries.
That was a nice demonstration. I do not own this charger but was wondering about a particular feature. It is rather limiting that you cannot set the charge current by pushing a button. In this video when you were removing and inserting the batteries and showing how the charger responded, you revealed a way to accomplish something useful that I had not seen anyone show before, that is, how to make the charger go into 500mA charging mode when you only want to charge 1 or 2 batteries at a time. I saw that when you had 3 batteries installed and then removed one, it stayed in 500mA mode. That will be very useful to someone who wants to charge only 1 or 2 NiMH AAA batteries at a time. If you know of a way to make it go into 500mA mode without having to install 3 or 4 batteries first, I would be curious to know.
You’re not getting a full 2A when testing with croc clips because of resistance. Those cables are usually pretty bad unless you have pomonas or something. You haven’t got CV yet so no reason why the current should be lower than stated value.
I have never been able to charge LiFePo4 batteries on any of mine. (I have 5 of them).... The charger always incorrectly identifies them as LiIon batteries and tries to charge them to 4.2 volts instead of only 3.65 volts; which destroys the LiFePo4 battery. You only tested NiMh, (NiCad is the same setting), and LiIon 4.2 volt batteries in your video. Please demonstrate charging LiFePo4 3.65 v max batteries on that charger.
It was said that 1.5V Lithium rechargeable battery is actually made by 3.7V cell and reduced the voltage by a controller. Right? Then what is the 4.2V for?
There are different batteries . Lithium can not be 1.5v we have nominal villages and change voltage. LiIon has nominal voltage 3.7V and changed with 4.2v. LiFePo5 ha nominal voltage if 3.2V and charge voltage of 3.65v. There are more battery types
@@WattHour Well, actually there are 1.5V Li-Ion rechargeables (AA and AAA). I have some from XTAR and they seem to do well for my old 3x AA head light (just purchased and don't have 'm tested very extensive yet). Seems that they indeed are 3.7V Li-Ion (according to the website) stepped down to 1.5V. They need a special charger, which states output 5V-0.5A x 4, so it looks like existing 1.2/3.2/3.7/3.8 chargers can't be used to charge them. There are also many brands that offer rechargeable 1.5V Li-Ion batteries with built-in micro-sub connector which charge directly from a USB slot, so I guess all of them need 5V for charging.
Default current is 1 amp , more than 2 batt will drop to 500ma, however I think you can change the current when charging 1 or 2 batt by press and hold the button. The M4 and S4 is default at 500ma and I think is much better than this for more selection wise.
The liitokala chargers wont charge lithium batteries that have been deep discharged, for example by flashlight. The charger thinks its a 1.2volt battery. So if i my flashlight have discharged my battery, i need to use the charger that came with the flashlight, to get it up to 3.7volt
@@chucknorris2952 - YES.... but if your flashlight is draining a Lithium battery to about 1 Volt, then your battery is being DESTROYED. You need to stop the discharge at minimum 2.5V, most commercial circuits will cut off at 2.9V to 3.0V. ... Most dedicated Lithium chargers (not like this universal charger) can recharge from very low voltage, however they start with approximately 10% of normal charge current until the battery is up around 2.5V or so. This is like an "emergency mode" for cells that are probably damaged. You really need to swap out the PCB inside the flashlight to one that has under-voltage protection, or monitor the voltage manually. ... Anyway, your Lithium battery is being damaged every time you over-discharge like that. Don't be ignorant - you can Google for more information.
@@chucknorris2952 you also shouldn’t trust the charging circuit of your flashlight. The fact that it doesn’t have a LVCO or anything is a good sign that it might also be lacking the basics…like a CC CV profile that stops at 0.05C. Or a dedicated low current pre charge cycle for cells below 2.5V like Samsung clearly states in their datasheets.
HANG ON. There is no such thing as a "Rechargeable 1.5V Lithium Battery". This device is for RECHARGEABLE cells like Ni-CD (1.2V), Ni-MH (1.2V), LiFePO4 (3.2V) and Li-Ion cylindrical (3.7V) cells. You can get all of those battery chemistries in AAA (10450) and AA size (14500). However you cannot charge 1.5V Lithium Primary batteries, as those are not designed to be recharged. You also cannot recharge the new AA cells that contain a 3.7V LiPo cell and a buck converter to output 1.5V. You charge those by USB.
I have a similar charger which works great in the sense that it doesn't charger any cell over 4.2v. But, as I mentioned in another comment on a different video, I think a board that can charge/discharge a 12v/3s pack without over discharge or over charge would be nice. Many of the cheap chinese BMS board are garbage since they allow both over charge and over discharge.
it is not about the charger. it is about the battery. when battery has capacity of 2000mAh, manufacturers do not recommend charging it with greater than 2000mA which will take one hour to charge. As you increase the charge current, it is greatly affect the chemistry of battery and reduces the life of the battery. so the solve this, the battery should be made with mechanism to reduce heat or cool it down. Most phones have very expensive batteries which are totally different than those individual cell.
Yes. Charging SLOW is the way to make batteries last. Hammering a Lithium cell with over 1C just destroys the lifetime of the battery. A 18650 of 2500 mAh capacity charged at 500mA might take 5 hours, but who cares... you just leave them overnight.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. You helped me understand how to get the batteries to charge at 500mAh
I just bought two of these in thailand from lazada and i didnt previously see your clip, but i am happy to see this as its what i found out and I also see you use liitokala batteries, the older batteries I have AA and AAA are all dud (the green ones marked "BTY" and have probably been ruined by older version chargers but the Sony AA, AAA versions survived and were detected by the Liitokala charger you are showing. Thanks again a LOT :-) I am just moving away from "brainless" chargers to these newer versions....
Thanks 👍
Great presentation. Thanks very much
I noticed when the charge current changes it doesn’t change the percentage of SOC or cell voltage. So are they calculating that without the voltage spike you get from adding a charge current or the reduction from reducing charge current. When you put the HG2’s in to show #4 drop from 2A to 500mA the voltage sat at 4.11V the whole time for cell #4.
I also don’t care for the percentages they have chosen. Seems to be heavily grouped to 3.85 to 4.15. That should be more like 4.10 to 3.45 or so.
One of the best reviews I've seen
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veri nice, just got one love it!
Hi, if you still have this charger, can you try long pressing the button (during charging) and see if this changes the current? Thanks!
What should i do if my battery could not be charged with this charger? My battery issue or the charger issue?. It says null and i only have 1 battery i just bought from friend..
It wont charge alkaline? When I charge alkaline it jumps to 100%.
Is it normal for the light to go out when the batteries are charging?
I have the LiitoKala Engineer Lii-500. Each cell will charge at 1A if that's what I want. I can select the amount of Ampere charge for each battery from 300mA to 1A. The charge AMPs aren't split as I insert 1, 2, 3 and 4 batteries.
Quick question, when you put only 1 (or 2) AAA batteries is it actually charging at 1000ma like it shows in the screen? Or in reality just 500ma?
whatever it show, it does with it say. that's why I made this video to test and show it. This is excellent product. No affiliation.
On display, is it charging voltage or battery voltage. I don't why, but only 1800mAh is given for eneloop pro (discharged to 900-1000mV). When it's reconnected another 300mAh is given, and I think I can repeat and repeat it. Cells are not getting hot.
On display it is both. When you start it is low and when battery is full it will got to the charge voltage and the current will stop.
@@WattHour So why i'm getting only 1800mAh instead 2500mAh?
The capacity always decreases when time passes.
@@WattHour Those are new batteries. Genuine in new paper package, ordered from amazon.
I think that this charger is the issue.
Use a multimeter and measure the voltage of batter under charge and then measure when charge is completed and batteries are connected see what is the maximum charge voltage.
A doubt.
Does the charger always maintain the same electrical current? Or while the battery is charging will the current decrease?
500 mA is not a lot of electrical current for AAA Ni-MH 800 mAh batteries?
My old sony charger (single charger) uses 200mA for all the batteries.
I believe I said it and now have to type it. When you charge voltage increases and current decrease
That was a nice demonstration. I do not own this charger but was wondering about a particular feature. It is rather limiting that you cannot set the charge current by pushing a button. In this video when you were removing and inserting the batteries and showing how the charger responded, you revealed a way to accomplish something useful that I had not seen anyone show before, that is, how to make the charger go into 500mA charging mode when you only want to charge 1 or 2 batteries at a time. I saw that when you had 3 batteries installed and then removed one, it stayed in 500mA mode. That will be very useful to someone who wants to charge only 1 or 2 NiMH AAA batteries at a time. If you know of a way to make it go into 500mA mode without having to install 3 or 4 batteries first, I would be curious to know.
I am glad you liked it . Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you
@@WattHour Sure. I can do that.
There are better chargers like Opus BT-3100/3400 which can select charge current. This is a very basic device, cheap one in LiitoKala product range.
Thank you
You’re not getting a full 2A when testing with croc clips because of resistance. Those cables are usually pretty bad unless you have pomonas or something. You haven’t got CV yet so no reason why the current should be lower than stated value.
The PD4 will charge 32700 LiFePO4 Batteries and LI-Ion 32650 batteries. Only 2 batteries of this size can be charged at at time.
But it can’t charge 26800 😔
(Which is normal, standard slot length for universal chargers is 75mm)
Can do 4 of the 18650 LiFePO4
I have never been able to charge LiFePo4 batteries on any of mine. (I have 5 of them)....
The charger always incorrectly identifies them as LiIon batteries and tries to charge them to 4.2 volts instead of only 3.65 volts; which destroys the LiFePo4 battery.
You only tested NiMh, (NiCad is the same setting), and LiIon 4.2 volt batteries in your video.
Please demonstrate charging LiFePo4 3.65 v max batteries on that charger.
I have not see LiFePo4 in the size that fits this charger. They are usually higher capacity
@@WattHour I have a bunch of 18650 LiFePO4 1800mah cells
Hello, is the charger good or bad at the end?
So, it does load testing?
Why would it? It is just a charger
@@WattHour actually, according to the docs, it does capacity testing.
It was said that 1.5V Lithium rechargeable battery is actually made by 3.7V cell and reduced the voltage by a controller. Right? Then what is the 4.2V for?
There are different batteries . Lithium can not be 1.5v we have nominal villages and change voltage. LiIon has nominal voltage 3.7V and changed with 4.2v. LiFePo5 ha nominal voltage if 3.2V and charge voltage of 3.65v. There are more battery types
@@WattHour Well, actually there are 1.5V Li-Ion rechargeables (AA and AAA). I have some from XTAR and they seem to do well for my old 3x AA head light (just purchased and don't have 'm tested very extensive yet).
Seems that they indeed are 3.7V Li-Ion (according to the website) stepped down to 1.5V. They need a special charger, which states output 5V-0.5A x 4, so it looks like existing 1.2/3.2/3.7/3.8 chargers can't be used to charge them. There are also many brands that offer rechargeable 1.5V Li-Ion batteries with built-in micro-sub connector which charge directly from a USB slot, so I guess all of them need 5V for charging.
Why the charger seems hot
Default current is 1 amp , more than 2 batt will drop to 500ma, however I think you can change the current when charging 1 or 2 batt by press and hold the button. The M4 and S4 is default at 500ma and I think is much better than this for more selection wise.
Please make a video about LitoKala Li-500 or 500S in future
Hi, I just added it to my list. thanks
The liitokala chargers wont charge lithium batteries that have been deep discharged, for example by flashlight. The charger thinks its a 1.2volt battery.
So if i my flashlight have discharged my battery, i need to use the charger that came with the flashlight, to get it up to 3.7volt
All "smart chargers" with auto-detection of battery chemistry have the same problem. You can solve by not over-discharging your cells so much (
@@johncoops6897 i put them in the ebay flashlight and charge it from there, it can charge any voltage li-ion cells back up to 3.3v
@@chucknorris2952 - YES.... but if your flashlight is draining a Lithium battery to about 1 Volt, then your battery is being DESTROYED. You need to stop the discharge at minimum 2.5V, most commercial circuits will cut off at 2.9V to 3.0V.
...
Most dedicated Lithium chargers (not like this universal charger) can recharge from very low voltage, however they start with approximately 10% of normal charge current until the battery is up around 2.5V or so. This is like an "emergency mode" for cells that are probably damaged.
You really need to swap out the PCB inside the flashlight to one that has under-voltage protection, or monitor the voltage manually.
...
Anyway, your Lithium battery is being damaged every time you over-discharge like that. Don't be ignorant - you can Google for more information.
@@johncoops6897 relax ;)
@@chucknorris2952 you also shouldn’t trust the charging circuit of your flashlight. The fact that it doesn’t have a LVCO or anything is a good sign that it might also be lacking the basics…like a CC CV profile that stops at 0.05C. Or a dedicated low current pre charge cycle for cells below 2.5V like Samsung clearly states in their datasheets.
This charger will charge up 32650 and 32700 Lithium Batteries
The numbers you’re mentioning are just size of the battery. The voltages are the same. Yes it will work
Can this also charge 21700 batteries?
size does not matter. 21700 is different size and the voltage is the same. if it fits, yes.
Does it charge 1.5v aaa and aa lithium batteries?
Or only aa / aaa 1.2v NiMH?
any rechargeable battery.
HANG ON. There is no such thing as a "Rechargeable 1.5V Lithium Battery".
This device is for RECHARGEABLE cells like Ni-CD (1.2V), Ni-MH (1.2V), LiFePO4 (3.2V) and Li-Ion cylindrical (3.7V) cells.
You can get all of those battery chemistries in AAA (10450) and AA size (14500).
However you cannot charge 1.5V Lithium Primary batteries, as those are not designed to be recharged.
You also cannot recharge the new AA cells that contain a 3.7V LiPo cell and a buck converter to output 1.5V. You charge those by USB.
Bought one, hoped it has CAPACITY MEASUREMENT
CAPACITY RECOVERY
RESIDUAL CAPACITY CHECK
Seems like it doesn't
So which of those could have some???
Lii-M4 and Lii-500. But M4 doesn’t show resistance. You can measure both capacity and resistance on Lii-500, but Lii-M4 will only measure capacity.
I think you should charge this ell at max 1635mA.
Only no discharge function 😢
The inside must have a fan,,,
I have a similar charger which works great in the sense that it doesn't charger any cell over 4.2v. But, as I mentioned in another comment on a different video, I think a board that can charge/discharge a 12v/3s pack without over discharge or over charge would be nice. Many of the cheap chinese BMS board are garbage since they allow both over charge and over discharge.
GK
My good 4x500mah only what a crap :/ 8W of power :) i charge my phone with 65W charger funny
it is not about the charger. it is about the battery. when battery has capacity of 2000mAh, manufacturers do not recommend charging it with greater than 2000mA which will take one hour to charge. As you increase the charge current, it is greatly affect the chemistry of battery and reduces the life of the battery. so the solve this, the battery should be made with mechanism to reduce heat or cool it down. Most phones have very expensive batteries which are totally different than those individual cell.
Yes. Charging SLOW is the way to make batteries last. Hammering a Lithium cell with over 1C just destroys the lifetime of the battery. A 18650 of 2500 mAh capacity charged at 500mA might take 5 hours, but who cares... you just leave them overnight.