Note, I said (mistakenly) in the video that it's a 35 gpm pump but its a 13 gpm. The link in the description for the pump is correct. Do you have any other questions about the press I didn't cover?
Oh man Denis, you made me a happy man! After my welding/ fabrication career ended I was going to make knives for the family… Then the injury and now we’re here looking for an alternative. Ding Ding Ding! Thanks buddy, I can do that, and with your list of materials, and I do have hydraulic experience. You are a very kind and selfless person, I truly thank you.
Thanks, Paul! I'm glad it wasn't too technical. These machines seem scary at first but when you break them down, they are very basic. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the walk through, much appreciated! A hydraulic press is one of the things on my wish list but for now the fly press is doing some of the hard work for me
Awesome video Denis!!! I've been trying to decide if I should build, or just buy, a press. I was looking at a 25 ton bench top, for $4,000, but you just made up my mind for me! I'm building my own! I was also leaning towards having the ram on top, but I'm 6'5" tall, and you made a good point about not having to bend over so far. Thanks so much for sharing my brother! 😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Very nice build. Love how it so simple, at least the bones of it. Also, love those kiss-blocks. What an great idea to keep them on the dies. I hope to build one of these once we move out to our property further from town. Just don't have the space for one of these right now and my poor shoulder just can't handle making Damascus by hand. Definitely, gonna put this in the save for later vids.
Fantastic overview! Love how you kept everything simple. Starting my build this week. I did notice that your bottom cylinder pin looks like it is trying to work its way out somewhat but trapped by the beam. Thanks for showing your press!
I have done a forge build before, but I'm about to do a new (better) one in a month or so. Definitely subscribe and check that one out when it comes out. Thanks for watching.
Throwback to TTT #3 when you did a quick overview of the press. I’m glad to see a more in-depth on the beast. I have started collecting pieces so when I can build it myself. Thanks again for the video and information.
Yup, It was getting tiresome to have people scroll all the way back to TTT #3, so I thought I'd redo it since I was doing some work on the thing anyway.
Sweet piece of machinery. I also built mine from scratch myself. Except mine definitely needs some more fine tuning on the design. But it gets the job done.
I found your statement of, "If you know how to weld..." at the end amusing because if you DON'T know how to weld, STOP and learn before proceeding any further with smithing of ANY kind.
Well, I wouldn’t be quite so black and white. There’s plenty of smithing you can do without welding. Though I do agree, it is a vital skill everyone should eventually learn and it’s a good starter. 👍. Thanks for watching.
Wow! I wish you had video of you building the press. I'm going to try it soon though. I'm in the process of building the surface grinder attachment you showed. Got all the parts except for the x-axis which I ordered 2 weeks ago and still hasn't shipped. Love all you do. Keep up the great work.
I find your videos very informative. Knifeprint made a good choice getting you to do their instruction videos. They have helped me immensely. If you find time, could provide better pictures of the press casters? I am planning on beginning my press soon. Keep the videos coming. Thanks Tom
Love the simplicity. Have all the parts saved and will start buying them as I get spare money. 100% going with your list and design. Made me a power hammer but honestly my hand hammer can do all it can do and more. I would much rather have a powerful press. Last one I made was a 6.5 ton log splitter and even that was a game changer.
I hope you wear ear protection when operating the press. That will give you tinnitus in the long run if you're not careful. Great insight, and love that it's made from scratch :D
One thing to mention is Bore size of the cylinder affects the speed aswell. Bigger bore requires more fluid to fill. I have a 4” bore with a 3600rpm motor and it’s almost to fast. Definitely will ruin a pattern specific billet in a hurry if not being very careful. Kiss blocks are a life saver.
@@TyrellKnifeworks i apologize, I must have missed that part. But yes the control valve solves that unless the user has a “heavy foot” sorta speak. I need to adjust the radius at which the handle is controlled from. It’s super sensitive. I say that but I’ve had it built for years now🤦♂️
@@TyrellKnifeworks aye, they seem very simple to build, specially after you gave the rundown and reasoning for your choices. It seem to be a press that serves you well. And using strengthened bits of I-beams is a neat way of preserving strength and shedding weight.
Without a doubt I spend more time watching Denis’ work, than any other channel on RUclips. I wish I had the skills to build something like this, but as an intermediate bladesmith, who has never really welded well, I’m not so sure I could pull this off. The frame seems to be the less worrisome part of the build. Mounting the motor and hydraulics would be my downfall. Love what you do Denis! Thank you!!
I built this with a $125 stick welder when I had very basic welding skills. The frame and head isn't hard. The mounting area for the dies needs to be thought through. The motor/pump mount is easy too. I had a guy do all the hydraulics because that part scared me. 😜. Thanks for watching.
Man, where have you been in my life? Veg'n out on your stuff. I start with blanks and grind for my entry into this retirement hobby and my love is handles and makeovers. Not sure I'd ever recoup the investment, but if I ever decided to take the plunge, guys like you give me a lot of confidence. Of course, not many show all the failures, you seem to have fool proof methodology. Not saying you make it look easy, because it's not, but lot of credit goes to your experience which can not be overstated. Too much "Forged in Fire" gave me the impression canisters and san mai damascus has the effectiveness of old school gene splicing - some take, some don't and you never know until you grind it up. Seeing you work your press/roller, I don't see a hammer has a place for the quality potential of your method. Is that a correct observation? If you were forging artillery barrels a hammer is the best tool. Some of the Damascus stacks guys like you make remind me of the guys who could solve a Rubik's Cube in 40 seconds - mesmerizing to watch
Thanks so much! I’d love to have a power hammer, but I live with neighbors that are close, so it’s a no-go on that. I certainly have my failures (see my last video on attempting stainless Damascus 😜) and try to show them all. San Mai’s are a lot more predictable than canister. I’m not really a fan of putting a bunch of random crap in a canister and seeing what you get. I like things a bit more structured. 😉. I appreciate you watching!
This was a great and informative video. Right now I'm just doing stock removal when I make my knives, but this was a great video to learn from when I do get a forge and have to build my own press. Keep up the good work man 👍👍
Great info like always Tyrell. Parting everything together for my build. Amazon wont ship most the items up too Alaska so I need to find companies that will. I do have most of the items for this build. Thanks again for all the info
I’m glad it helped you, Travis! I have a buddy (Spencer on the heavy_forge channel) in anchorage who might be able to help you source things. Drop me an email.
Looks great. I found one of those 33ish ton log splitters, and basically gave it an anvil and turned the axe head into a die holder. Then retro fitted an electric motor to replace the gas motor. Not a bad route for the price, but your's looks way better haha.
If its a 33 ton log splitter, those are about the only ones I would recommend as forging presses to re-use the rail. The small ones just don't have the strength and twist under the pressure. Thanks for watching, Nicholas.
Really great and simple design. One thing I have always wanted to know is during the pressing process, you create a lot of scale and waste. Where does that go, and can it be re-smelted or recycled? And if not, what do you do with it?
With this design, the scales either falls forward or slides down the chute on the back. Scale is basically iron oxide with no carbon in it. It’s a waste product that has no value and is thrown away. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I'll take you up on that. I was hoping to run into you and your son at Blade Texas this year but I missed you. Keep the videos coming!
Sorry, I do not have any plans. I would get the cylinder first, that's key to know how far it extends and how to construct the frame. The frame is just a square box and then the carriage moves within it. Thanks for watching, Jason.
Great build, love it. I have been pricing materials and getting ready to build one of my own. This has been the best video of showing each part of the machine, so thank you!! Also, in the video it sounds like you say 35gpm pump, but the link is for a 13gpm pump in the description. Is this just a slip up? Thank you again for all the information!!
Yeah, I screwed up in the video, its a 13gpm pump. With a 30 ton cylinder, 5 hp motor and 13gpm pump you can achieve about 1.5"/s travel on the head which is about what you want. Thanks for watching
Yup, it’s a really important skill. Easier than you think I’ll bet. Find a friend with a mig welder or buy a cheap one and watch some videos. 👍. Thanks for watching.
This was a great video, Denis, for the bladesmiths who have had little metal/machine work experience. It may take some time and help, but these capabilities are obtainable for a small investment.
The hydraulic press is a game changer for a bladesmith. This was scary at first but when you break it down, its actually a pretty simple machine to build. Thanks for watching, Byron.
Really enjoyed your video, thx for sharing it. Was wondering if you cloud show or have you shown in the past, a full look around of the reservoir. Would like to see how it's set up. Again thx for sharing your knowledge.
Honestly, it’s pretty simple. I have a “cage” I welded together to hold the reservoir and the motor/pump sits on top of that cage. I didn’t do any of the plumbing, I got a hydraulics guy locally to do all the hoses and fittings. Thanks for watching, Franklin.
I bought a benchtop 12 ton from Coal Iron Works. First test was 2 inch round and it crushed it no problem. Not sure why smiths with limited space have massive presses. Perhaps they are compensating for smallness in other areas. Bigger isnt better, it just gets in the way. Forge On!!!
Watch my recent video on hydraulic press questions. There are lots of good reasons. Sure you can do a 2” round, but what about a 2” x 6” billet? What about something that’s 3/8” thick? Smaller presses will certainly get the job done, you just have to take smaller bites. They have smaller dies. When you’re working on Damascus, it’s easier with larger dies. Thanks for watching.
Actually bought the steel and plan to start fab’n. Would love to see the foot pedal design. It was out of frame a bit. Love your stuff btw! Keep it up.
You may not need hardened dies as long as you only work on 1/2 thick billets or larger. If you work material smaller, or taper things that may not hold enough heat to stay red through a single hard press, the dies will dent in ways that become problematic because it leaves those dents in your future work. I use hardened dies for all smaller work for this reason.
Quick question (I hope)... the linkage from the foot pedal to the valve is hooked over on the top. Is there any reason to extend it and have it hooked over, or can that be flush with the square tubing? Looks like it would function as a handle, but I can see myself hooking on it. Thanks for putting this out there, I really appreciate how much content you've provided the knifemaking/blacksmithing community!
It’s hooked over so it doubles as a handle if you want to do it manually. It’s far out of the way and I’ve never even brushed it while using the machine. Thanks for watching
It's no fun to have to bend over to look in the press. I have that issue with where my forge is now. I'm working on a new forge build with a stand that will make it about 5' in the air at eye level. 👍🏻. You guys will see that video in a month or so.
I am a pretty good welder. I've been interested in blacksmithing for years now but don't know how to start. I had some pictures of a book series on how to but those are gone. My neighbor's a blacksmith but he's very busy. 🙄🤔
You make the best videos. Just the right ratio of specific, useful info, with a straight forward, boiled down approach. Do you think the Vevor hydraulic power packs would be a decent alternative? They come in various sizes, etc. They are attractive because it's a total package (excluding ram). Thanks again for such great content.
I haven’t looked at those hydraulic packs from Vevor but I would just buy the pieces. The pump/valve/reservoir isn’t much. Plus you want to match the ram to the pump/motor. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all that you do. I too am IT by day and Bladsmith by night. Given you have used this for roughly a year, any tweaks or changes come to mind?
I’ve actually had the press for over 4 years now. I wouldn’t change a thing except my kiss blocks. Instead of “saddles” over the flat dies I’d change to square tubes of different lengths over holders on each side of the die plate. Thanks for watching, Brian
I've just found your channel and am enjoying it immensely. I've blacksmith'd about 10 years but I've never tried making damascus. I have a few questions concerning a press. For an occasional damascus build, in your opinion, what is the minimum tonnage needed for an adequate press? Could a Harbor Freight air powered 20 ton press suffice? Would it be fast enough? I haven't done a lot of searching but I've never seen someone making damascus at normal speed (it always seems to be speeded up) so I'm not sure how fast the press should operate (compression & retracting) to be efficent. Concerning forges. I have a naturally aspirated gas forge (built in a team build using a 12" - 14" diameter pipe with 2 burners let into the side towards the top to create a swirl inside the forge). The propane orifice is a mig welding tip positioned in a 3/4" t-fitting to allow for air intake. In your opinion would it be possible/helpful to introduce forced air into the intake assembly to increase temperature/performance? Thanks in advance!
I would stay away from air cylinders. They are just too slow. Speed is important and you want a good motor driving a good pump so the ram moves about 2”/s. They always have a low gear for fine manipulation. I would go less than a 20-ton cylinder if I was making one because the cost difference is negligible. Mine is a 28ton with a 5hp motor and 13gpm pump. It works perfectly for forging. As for the forge, if you have a Venturi burner, you’d have to change that to move to forced air. You wouldn’t want both. Forced air burners a dead simple, just an air pipe with gas tee’d into it and either a ribbon burner or nozzle at the end. They are much easier to control for doing Damascus. Welcome to the channel, thanks for watching!
Building another like that would be a lot easier if you used the correct terms for the sterlwhich is wide flange H-beam. Putting bolts through I-beam requires tapered wedges on the inside.
Thanks for great explanation, this seems quite doable and I'm going to build one. I'm also wondering, what were the considerations for selecting the cylinder, the engine and the pump? As someone coming from the metric part of the world, I'm going to use some different equipment and I'm not sure how the calculations work. I've done the conversions, found a 220 bar 50 lpm hydraulic for 3000 rpm, a 4kW 3000 rpm motor and a 50-ton-rated cylinder with a 63 mm diameter, and napkin calculations show that it should move at 67 mm/s (2.6 inch/s) and produce a force of up to 28 tonnes. Am I correct in calculating force from the pump pressure and cylinder diameter and choosing a cylinder rated higher than that force? And how does the engine power factor in here?
Choose your cylinder first that you want to base your build on. There are online calculators for speed of the cylinder based on the pump speed and that's what you need. You want the cylinder to go at LEAST an inch / 2.54cm per second, preferably 2"/5cm per second. To achieve that you need a good pump and then get the motor with enough hp to drive that pump. Make sense? Thanks for watching!
You mentioned that it is on casters. How much is the overall weight, and what type of casters do you use? Do they effect the press when it is in operation?
I haven't exactly weighed it but they are each rated at 200lbs and it moves around relatively easy with some pushing but not enough that when you're using the foot pedal it moves. It's quite solid. Thanks for watching, Stephan.
Did you do stress calculations on the frame (especially the welds)? Does the hydraulic system have overpressure protection? Does the system have an emergency kill switch that could be reached in case of an oil fire? Is the operator protected in case of a burst hydraulic line? Are you sure the tray is adequate protection when a workpiece drops out of the wrong end? There’s a reason why you can’t buy presses for +-$1400. Safety chief among them.
@@TyrellKnifeworks what do you mean “yes”? You mean to say you did all of the above? Don’t just give me a “yes. Thanks for watching” and treat me like an actual human being with legitimate concerns.
If you were going to make a new press after using this one for so long what are the things you would change? Thanks for the video. I am in the planning stage for building my own.
The ONLY thing I would consider changing is having the ability to have combo dies. Right now since the dies are 4" square, that's not big enough to hold a combo die (both drawing and flattening in one die). I would like to have made a special die holder conversion kit so that it would fit a combo die plate that was 8" wide so I could have a 6" die on top. I wouldn't ever sacrifice the ability to have square dies that you can turn 90 degrees though. Other than that, I wouldn't change a single thing.
Awesome video thank you! And one question I wasn’t able to find in the comments.. I see your link northern tool is for a 3500 psi cylinder will that work? Or would you try to find a 3000 psi cylinder? Thank You
Tyrell sir. Thank you for sharing this. I got a little ol 110 welder. Would this work or should I just find someone with a bigger welder. I think I'll definitely build this. I mean it's a 30ton that's bigger than anything from coal iron for half the price.!!😀
It seems they don’t have the 5” bore cylinder. I updated the link to a 4” bore, but that one is only 18 ton. The 5” bore was 28 ton. I would look for a 5” bore / 10” stroke cylinder somewhere else. Thanks for watching, Tyler.
I just built a press based off his design and I got my 5” bore 10” stroke 3000psi spartan cylinder from FIMIC and it worked great the only thing I would do differently is get a pump with a cast iron body instead of this pump with aluminum housing I got the one he recommended but outlet port blew off and tore threads after 4 days of use so now I’m waiting on new pump and out $150
I just started knife making, so for know i'm just doing basic knife work. But in the future i really love to do some complex knife making and damascus. And a hydraulic press is a future plan and this video is really helpfull thank you very much. But this is a 30 ton press. what ton do you recommend minimum?
you say 35gpm in the video, and then link a 13 GPM? I used a calculator the other day, suggested that 30-40GPm was what was required. I also have found that 30+GPM pumps are very expensive... edit: ignore, you answered this already.
Perfect timing on releasing the video. I'm currently on search of a discarded logger splitter now that burn seasons over out here. Because most of parts will come with it. Love the idea the 5 HP motor. Is that single phase and 120 VAC? Knowing the valve would need to be swapped out, but I assumed (oops) that's what controlled the speed. Thanks! One more thing, the foot pedal, is that a 2 way? Similar to a hydrostat tractor gas pedal? Awesome design!!!
The only thing you’re gonna use from the log splitter is the cylinder and even then it’s not ideal (too long). Unless you get one for free, don’t bother. You can buy the cylinder for $300 brand new. The foot pedal just sits on a rail and moves up/down/neutral and connects to the valve. Thanks for watching
@@brooksmartin5183 if you’re asking about the motor for a log splitter, they are usually gas engines. You certainly don’t want that in your shop. Mine is a 5hp 220v single phase motor.
Mine started from a log splitter. I replaced the cylinder for a shorter and higher pressure rating. Also put a 3hp 3600rpm motor on it which is equivalent to a 5hp gas motor. (Electric has more torque which is what does the work). I wouldnt use the new log splitters unless the frame is reinforced. I’ve seen pictures of them twisting and bending the frames badly. Mine is an older one that’s built a little stronger, plus what I’ve done to it. My control valve doesn’t auto return anymore. There’s a part that can be taken out of the valve which is what makes it auto return. I believe it was a spring and a guide bolt under the detent cover. ( it’s been several years). If you can find a log splitter cheap enough to effectively modify or use parts from then it’s worth it. Don’t go spend $1k on one to make a press out of it. You can build a better one for that price.
@@erikcourtney1834 Thanks Erik for your advise! Between Tyrells and your feedback, you guys have talked me out that path. And Tyrells design seems have thought it through.
Thank you for the video... On your build, dis you have the hoses made to length or are they off the shelf lengths? Is there anything you would recomend doing differently now?
I had a guy come do the plumbing for it so he did the hoses custom. The only thing I’d do differently is that I’d put flat areas in either side of the die holders so I could put holders for different lengths of square tube on both sides for kiss blocks. That’s it, everything else seems great and I’ve been using this press for 5 years. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the very informative video, makes me want to try building one. I do have a question about the motor though, in the video you said you need a 5hp motor and it's all about the speed that it rotates. My shop will not have a 230v setup which is what is required of the 5hp motor you linked however, the same amazon seller has a 2hp motor that is the same rpm as the 5hp (3450) but it can run off of 115v. Do you know if the lower hp will affect it all? Like make it go slower up and down or could it just bind up altogether and not work to rotate the pump? Not sure how much torque is required to rotate the pump if much at all or if it is all about the rpm. Thanks for taking the time to read this and i am hoping someone can help me out.
You need the torque. Hp is about the power of a pump and that’s what you need to drive a pump that moves hydraulic oil. It just means you can’t drive as high a pump. I would strongly suggest you consider putting in 220v power to your shop. You’ll use it for so many things. I did mine myself, it’s very easy.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Drop type forging dies. Kind of like a mould, to press pre-forms or an integral. I see now that I didn't explain myself at all, I apologize.
@@leighchristopherson2455 ah I see what you mean. Since each of my knives is unique, I don’t have dies for them. If I was doing production knives maybe, but that’s not my thing.
Hey Denis! i am currently following this build to make my own press. Thank you! I do have a quick question though, ( i know there are a lot of variables) in your build, would a 2" longer stroke cylinder work effectively? or is it too long?
A longe cylinder would certainly work. Each cylinder is rated for pressure and force, the length of the ram usually isn't the consideration. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
do you have any plans or anything? or did you just wing it? i've watched red beard ops' hydraulic press video about a thousand times and was thinking that was going to be the plan for me but am always curious about new designs.
No plans, I just wing'ed it. Get your cylinder first and figure out the extended length of the cylinder so you know how high you should make your press. Then just build the frame to support that. They are actually quite a simple design, its just a big square with the cylinder at the bottom and a moving head bolted around the inner frame that slides up and down.
Not a specific list but the main parts are 5” x 8” H-beam cut in two 5’ lengths with 3 12” lengths used as the supports and the head. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a cost estimate for all the steel. I know it's going to be higher now but just trying to get an estimate would help in planning everything out.
I had my steel yard cut an i-beam into 5 pieces. Two 4-foot sections and three 1-foot sections and I just welded those up. Plus a foot or two of 1/2" bar to make the holders for the clevis pins. In total I think it cost me about $250 in steel or thereabouts.
This is much simpler construction than mine :P. 35 galon/minut? I think you mean Liters. 35galon/minut would be around 135cu in/sec (if my match is correct) :). At first I put 35l/min pump to my press and it was too fast- I couldn't control the press at all. Did you ever change the pressure on the control valve? I've reduce the force to 25 ton (160Bar) but I can go up to 37 (250 bar). Nice video, as always :)!
@@TyrellKnifeworks It can't be 35 galon/min. if you have 5" cylinder it means its' 12cm in diameter. the Surface of the piston is 122cm2. 5cm/sec is around 630cm/3 volume. 35l/min pump push 583cm3/sec. So everything is right except of the unit :). And the link you posted is 13 GPM which is moves around 2.75"/sec.. this actually might be correct :).
It is a 5" bore, but I don't quite remember if it was a 10" or 12" stroke. With the flat dies in it, it has about 6 inches of travel and those dies are 2" thick, so it's probably a 10". Either would work though, you just need to change the construction a bit. Thanks for watching, Matt.
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I got another question, sorry this will be the last one this week I promise! Do you have to use the full stroke of the cylinder? I got a 10” stroke but I only have @2” of room between beams. Not enough for dies nor Clevis pin mounts
@@huntintrailmetals9343 You certainly don't need the full stroke. Mine is an 8" stroke and I have it setup so that I can use the full stroke though it depends on the die I'm using. I have a feather slicing die that's quite long so I have about 5" of room below that. Keep in mind that you'll want to accomodate dies like that. Your dies are typically 1-1/2" thick at most, even at 8" of stroke you have room for 5" of material. 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks I was wondering about the foot pedal also (I'm assuming that's how it operates?) Since the valve returns to neutral, do you have to actuate the pedal in two directions? Up and then down?
@@tackthecack677 Yes, the front of the pedal has a solid round-bar linkage to the valve. The pedal has a round tube welded to the bottom and its over a horizontal round bar. Then you push down on the front (like an accelerator pedal in a car) to press and push with your heal to retract. It's very fast and easy. I'll show it in a future video.
Accept speed"rpm" is not the same thing as power. You can have a 5 hp motor in several different rpm's. Many other flaws I see in your video but..... ya
Note, I said (mistakenly) in the video that it's a 35 gpm pump but its a 13 gpm. The link in the description for the pump is correct. Do you have any other questions about the press I didn't cover?
Did you name it?
It's a pressing matter, I know.
@@isaacbenrubi9613 haha, no I haven’t. Any ideas?
H. Preston McPress Esquire
One day I'll have one and I won't be depressed anymore.
@@isaacbenrubi9613 ha, love it!
Oh man Denis, you made me a happy man! After my welding/ fabrication career ended I was going to make knives for the family… Then the injury and now we’re here looking for an alternative. Ding Ding Ding! Thanks buddy, I can do that, and with your list of materials, and I do have hydraulic experience. You are a very kind and selfless person, I truly thank you.
I'm happy the video helped you, Brady! There are lots of guys who would pay to have these built. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks- if I ever decide to build 1 for a profitable project I will be sure to send you a partnership check indeed!
@@bradymcphail9690 No need, I took this basic design from another maker so its certainly not all mine. Take what ideas you need. Good luck!
This was actually really useful and interesting. I love the way you explain stuff, and make it sound not so difficult and scary but rather simple.
Thanks, Paul! I'm glad it wasn't too technical. These machines seem scary at first but when you break them down, they are very basic. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the walk through, much appreciated! A hydraulic press is one of the things on my wish list but for now the fly press is doing some of the hard work for me
Fly presses look pretty fun actually. You get a workout at the same time! 😜. Thanks for watching, Russell.
Awesome video Denis!!! I've been trying to decide if I should build, or just buy, a press. I was looking at a 25 ton bench top, for $4,000, but you just made up my mind for me! I'm building my own! I was also leaning towards having the ram on top, but I'm 6'5" tall, and you made a good point about not having to bend over so far. Thanks so much for sharing my brother! 😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
I’m glad it was useful to you! It’s an easy build, give it a try. Thanks for watching, Bob
Very nice build. Love how it so simple, at least the bones of it. Also, love those kiss-blocks. What an great idea to keep them on the dies. I hope to build one of these once we move out to our property further from town. Just don't have the space for one of these right now and my poor shoulder just can't handle making Damascus by hand. Definitely, gonna put this in the save for later vids.
I’m glad it was helpful for you. Give the build a try. Thanks for watching
Fantastic overview! Love how you kept everything simple. Starting my build this week. I did notice that your bottom cylinder pin looks like it is trying to work its way out somewhat but trapped by the beam. Thanks for showing your press!
Thanks for checking it out, Dale! I'm glad the overview was helpful. Note, that pin isn't going anywhere, there's a nut holding it in place. 😉
I love channels like these who give useful information and details about things like this, have you ever done a video explaining how to build a forge?
I have done a forge build before, but I'm about to do a new (better) one in a month or so. Definitely subscribe and check that one out when it comes out. Thanks for watching.
Throwback to TTT #3 when you did a quick overview of the press. I’m glad to see a more in-depth on the beast. I have started collecting pieces so when I can build it myself. Thanks again for the video and information.
Yup, It was getting tiresome to have people scroll all the way back to TTT #3, so I thought I'd redo it since I was doing some work on the thing anyway.
I know I always wanted to know what your dies were made of. Thanks again for all your videos
Sweet piece of machinery. I also built mine from scratch myself. Except mine definitely needs some more fine tuning on the design. But it gets the job done.
Hey, if it gets the job done. 👍
I found your statement of, "If you know how to weld..." at the end amusing because if you DON'T know how to weld, STOP and learn before proceeding any further with smithing of ANY kind.
Well, I wouldn’t be quite so black and white. There’s plenty of smithing you can do without welding. Though I do agree, it is a vital skill everyone should eventually learn and it’s a good starter. 👍. Thanks for watching.
Wow! I wish you had video of you building the press. I'm going to try it soon though. I'm in the process of building the surface grinder attachment you showed. Got all the parts except for the x-axis which I ordered 2 weeks ago and still hasn't shipped. Love all you do. Keep up the great work.
Yeah, I built the press before I had a RUclips channel so no build video. Thanks for watching, Steve.
I find your videos very informative. Knifeprint made a good choice getting you to do their instruction videos. They have helped me immensely.
If you find time, could provide better pictures of the press casters? I am planning on beginning my press soon.
Keep the videos coming.
Thanks
Tom
For casters, just get ones rated for the weight you need at any hardware store. Thanks for watching
Love the simplicity. Have all the parts saved and will start buying them as I get spare money. 100% going with your list and design. Made me a power hammer but honestly my hand hammer can do all it can do and more. I would much rather have a powerful press. Last one I made was a 6.5 ton log splitter and even that was a game changer.
It really is a game changer. It’s the workhorse in the shop for sure. 👍
Great build! Ive been thinking of buying one or making one. Definitely going to look through your parts list! Thanks again for a great video!
They are pretty easy to build. I would do it again. Thanks for watching
I hope you wear ear protection when operating the press. That will give you tinnitus in the long run if you're not careful. Great insight, and love that it's made from scratch :D
Thanh’s for checking it out.
This was refreshing as you know I’m building mine. Thanks Denis!
I'm glad it was timely for you. Thanks for supporting the channel, Armen!
One thing to mention is Bore size of the cylinder affects the speed aswell. Bigger bore requires more fluid to fill. I have a 4” bore with a 3600rpm motor and it’s almost to fast. Definitely will ruin a pattern specific billet in a hurry if not being very careful. Kiss blocks are a life saver.
Yes, absolutely. I did mention it was a 5” cylinder so it takes a lot of oil. The valve having a slow mode helps a lot too. Thanks for watching, Erik!
@@TyrellKnifeworks i apologize, I must have missed that part. But yes the control valve solves that unless the user has a “heavy foot” sorta speak. I need to adjust the radius at which the handle is controlled from. It’s super sensitive. I say that but I’ve had it built for years now🤦♂️
I wasnt aware you hade built this yourself, thanks for the rundown, and the quick how to for those looking to set one up themself
They are actually pretty easy to build. I certainly would do it again.
@@TyrellKnifeworks aye, they seem very simple to build, specially after you gave the rundown and reasoning for your choices. It seem to be a press that serves you well. And using strengthened bits of I-beams is a neat way of preserving strength and shedding weight.
Without a doubt I spend more time watching Denis’ work, than any other channel on RUclips. I wish I had the skills to build something like this, but as an intermediate bladesmith, who has never really welded well, I’m not so sure I could pull this off. The frame seems to be the less worrisome part of the build. Mounting the motor and hydraulics would be my downfall. Love what you do Denis! Thank you!!
I built this with a $125 stick welder when I had very basic welding skills. The frame and head isn't hard. The mounting area for the dies needs to be thought through. The motor/pump mount is easy too. I had a guy do all the hydraulics because that part scared me. 😜. Thanks for watching.
Man, where have you been in my life? Veg'n out on your stuff. I start with blanks and grind for my entry into this retirement hobby and my love is handles and makeovers.
Not sure I'd ever recoup the investment, but if I ever decided to take the plunge, guys like you give me a lot of confidence. Of course, not many show all the failures, you seem to have fool proof methodology. Not saying you make it look easy, because it's not, but lot of credit goes to your experience which can not be overstated. Too much "Forged in Fire" gave me the impression canisters and san mai damascus has the effectiveness of old school gene splicing - some take, some don't and you never know until you grind it up.
Seeing you work your press/roller, I don't see a hammer has a place for the quality potential of your method. Is that a correct observation? If you were forging artillery barrels a hammer is the best tool.
Some of the Damascus stacks guys like you make remind me of the guys who could solve a Rubik's Cube in 40 seconds - mesmerizing to watch
Thanks so much! I’d love to have a power hammer, but I live with neighbors that are close, so it’s a no-go on that. I certainly have my failures (see my last video on attempting stainless Damascus 😜) and try to show them all. San Mai’s are a lot more predictable than canister. I’m not really a fan of putting a bunch of random crap in a canister and seeing what you get. I like things a bit more structured. 😉. I appreciate you watching!
This was a great and informative video. Right now I'm just doing stock removal when I make my knives, but this was a great video to learn from when I do get a forge and have to build my own press. Keep up the good work man 👍👍
I’m glad it was helpful, Isaac. Thanks for watching.
Great breakdown
Thanks for taking a look!
Great info like always Tyrell. Parting everything together for my build. Amazon wont ship most the items up too Alaska so I need to find companies that will. I do have most of the items for this build. Thanks again for all the info
I’m glad it helped you, Travis! I have a buddy (Spencer on the heavy_forge channel) in anchorage who might be able to help you source things. Drop me an email.
good vid, thanks! You can modify the valves on at least some of the log splitters so they work right for forging by just removing the spring.
Yeah, that’s probably true. The valves aren’t really that expensive though.
Good thing I took a welding class in HS. Really enjoyed it and took to it pretty well, so I was told
Welding is a super useful skill and an important one for bladesmithing. 👍. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks indeed it is. Keep up the great content, man
Looks great. I found one of those 33ish ton log splitters, and basically gave it an anvil and turned the axe head into a die holder. Then retro fitted an electric motor to replace the gas motor. Not a bad route for the price, but your's looks way better haha.
my die holders suck too, I'm totally stealing your step design and square bases :)
If its a 33 ton log splitter, those are about the only ones I would recommend as forging presses to re-use the rail. The small ones just don't have the strength and twist under the pressure. Thanks for watching, Nicholas.
Very impressive thought for building a press
Hehe gravity locks 👍
Thanhs for checking it out.
Really great and simple design.
One thing I have always wanted to know is during the pressing process, you create a lot of scale and waste.
Where does that go, and can it be re-smelted or recycled?
And if not, what do you do with it?
With this design, the scales either falls forward or slides down the chute on the back. Scale is basically iron oxide with no carbon in it. It’s a waste product that has no value and is thrown away. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video. I am getting ready to build one in Sept. You really answered a lot of my questions.
That's great, I'm glad it was helpful! Let me know if you have questions during your build.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I'll take you up on that. I was hoping to run into you and your son at Blade Texas this year but I missed you. Keep the videos coming!
Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to explain everything!
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Awesome build. Just what I need to build, except mine is 20 tons. As a welder fabricator, this should be a good build for me
If you’re a welder and fabricator, it should be an easy build. Thanks for watching, Rodney.
Exactly what I have been looking for. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Super smart construction. Loves it
Thanks for watching!
Do you have a set of plans you followed or mod'd from? That would be helpful for us. TY in advance. Great Vid too!
Sorry, I do not have any plans. I would get the cylinder first, that's key to know how far it extends and how to construct the frame. The frame is just a square box and then the carriage moves within it. Thanks for watching, Jason.
Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge
I’m just happy it’s helpful. 👍
Great build, love it. I have been pricing materials and getting ready to build one of my own. This has been the best video of showing each part of the machine, so thank you!!
Also, in the video it sounds like you say 35gpm pump, but the link is for a 13gpm pump in the description. Is this just a slip up?
Thank you again for all the information!!
Yeah, I screwed up in the video, its a 13gpm pump. With a 30 ton cylinder, 5 hp motor and 13gpm pump you can achieve about 1.5"/s travel on the head which is about what you want. Thanks for watching
Awesome, thank you!
ah, someone else asked this, thank f
I guess I'm going to have to learn how to weld... that sure would make life easier
Yup, it’s a really important skill. Easier than you think I’ll bet. Find a friend with a mig welder or buy a cheap one and watch some videos. 👍. Thanks for watching.
This was a great video, Denis, for the bladesmiths who have had little metal/machine work experience. It may take some time and help, but these capabilities are obtainable for a small investment.
The hydraulic press is a game changer for a bladesmith. This was scary at first but when you break it down, its actually a pretty simple machine to build. Thanks for watching, Byron.
Another great and informative TTT video. Thanks again Dennis!
I'm glad it was helpful, Stephen! Thanks for watching
Really enjoyed your video, thx for sharing it. Was wondering if you cloud show or have you shown in the past, a full look around of the reservoir. Would like to see how it's set up. Again thx for sharing your knowledge.
Honestly, it’s pretty simple. I have a “cage” I welded together to hold the reservoir and the motor/pump sits on top of that cage. I didn’t do any of the plumbing, I got a hydraulics guy locally to do all the hoses and fittings. Thanks for watching, Franklin.
I bought a benchtop 12 ton from Coal Iron Works. First test was 2 inch round and it crushed it no problem. Not sure why smiths with limited space have massive presses. Perhaps they are compensating for smallness in other areas. Bigger isnt better, it just gets in the way.
Forge On!!!
Watch my recent video on hydraulic press questions. There are lots of good reasons. Sure you can do a 2” round, but what about a 2” x 6” billet? What about something that’s 3/8” thick? Smaller presses will certainly get the job done, you just have to take smaller bites. They have smaller dies. When you’re working on Damascus, it’s easier with larger dies. Thanks for watching.
That is a very nice press, I've go to build one, when I have time.
Thanks for checking it out, Ben.
Actually bought the steel and plan to start fab’n. Would love to see the foot pedal design. It was out of frame a bit. Love your stuff btw! Keep it up.
Yeah I missed that part. I’ll do a follow up on that part in a future video. 👍
You may not need hardened dies as long as you only work on 1/2 thick billets or larger. If you work material smaller, or taper things that may not hold enough heat to stay red through a single hard press, the dies will dent in ways that become problematic because it leaves those dents in your future work. I use hardened dies for all smaller work for this reason.
I’ve never had an issue. Thanks for watching.
Nice build sir. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Raymond!
Great bit of kit thanks for the amazing videos
Thanks for checking out the build!
Thank you for the information. Can you post a picture or video of the casters? I can’t picture how it would be stable on them.
Checkout the shop tour video in Triple-T #88. I had that question a few times so I covered it in that video. Thanks for watching, Alan.
Great video and awesome job on your press!
Thanks for taking a look!
Quick question (I hope)... the linkage from the foot pedal to the valve is hooked over on the top. Is there any reason to extend it and have it hooked over, or can that be flush with the square tubing? Looks like it would function as a handle, but I can see myself hooking on it. Thanks for putting this out there, I really appreciate how much content you've provided the knifemaking/blacksmithing community!
It’s hooked over so it doubles as a handle if you want to do it manually. It’s far out of the way and I’ve never even brushed it while using the machine. Thanks for watching
Merci, it's a very good press !
Je vous en prie. Merci d'avoir regardé!
That's pretty sweet mr Tyrell
Thanks for the tour
We are the same height,
It's no fun to have to bend over to look in the press. I have that issue with where my forge is now. I'm working on a new forge build with a stand that will make it about 5' in the air at eye level. 👍🏻. You guys will see that video in a month or so.
All the best,thanks for the reply
Sweet Build
Thanks for the video
Thanks for taking a look
I am a pretty good welder. I've been interested in blacksmithing for years now but don't know how to start. I had some pictures of a book series on how to but those are gone. My neighbor's a blacksmith but he's very busy. 🙄🤔
Checkout my Beginner Series playlist. That will get you started. 👍. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks.
You make the best videos. Just the right ratio of specific, useful info, with a straight forward, boiled down approach. Do you think the Vevor hydraulic power packs would be a decent alternative? They come in various sizes, etc. They are attractive because it's a total package (excluding ram). Thanks again for such great content.
I haven’t looked at those hydraulic packs from Vevor but I would just buy the pieces. The pump/valve/reservoir isn’t much. Plus you want to match the ram to the pump/motor. Thanks for watching!
Thx man looks like I'm building a press
It’s not a hard build really. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for all that you do. I too am IT by day and Bladsmith by night. Given you have used this for roughly a year, any tweaks or changes come to mind?
I’ve actually had the press for over 4 years now. I wouldn’t change a thing except my kiss blocks. Instead of “saddles” over the flat dies I’d change to square tubes of different lengths over holders on each side of the die plate. Thanks for watching, Brian
Thanks for the information
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
I've just found your channel and am enjoying it immensely. I've blacksmith'd about 10 years but I've never tried making damascus.
I have a few questions concerning a press. For an occasional damascus build, in your opinion, what is the minimum tonnage needed for an adequate press? Could a Harbor Freight air powered 20 ton press suffice? Would it be fast enough? I haven't done a lot of searching but I've never seen someone making damascus at normal speed (it always seems to be speeded up) so I'm not sure how fast the press should operate (compression & retracting) to be efficent.
Concerning forges. I have a naturally aspirated gas forge (built in a team build using a 12" - 14" diameter pipe with 2 burners let into the side towards the top to create a swirl inside the forge). The propane orifice is a mig welding tip positioned in a 3/4" t-fitting to allow for air intake. In your opinion would it be possible/helpful to introduce forced air into the intake assembly to increase temperature/performance?
Thanks in advance!
I would stay away from air cylinders. They are just too slow. Speed is important and you want a good motor driving a good pump so the ram moves about 2”/s. They always have a low gear for fine manipulation. I would go less than a 20-ton cylinder if I was making one because the cost difference is negligible. Mine is a 28ton with a 5hp motor and 13gpm pump. It works perfectly for forging. As for the forge, if you have a Venturi burner, you’d have to change that to move to forced air. You wouldn’t want both. Forced air burners a dead simple, just an air pipe with gas tee’d into it and either a ribbon burner or nozzle at the end. They are much easier to control for doing Damascus. Welcome to the channel, thanks for watching!
Building another like that would be a lot easier if you used the correct terms for the sterlwhich is wide flange H-beam. Putting bolts through I-beam requires tapered wedges on the inside.
Despite what YOU call them, just about anywhere will refer to these as I-beam. Including any of the online metal suppliers. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for great explanation, this seems quite doable and I'm going to build one. I'm also wondering, what were the considerations for selecting the cylinder, the engine and the pump? As someone coming from the metric part of the world, I'm going to use some different equipment and I'm not sure how the calculations work. I've done the conversions, found a 220 bar 50 lpm hydraulic for 3000 rpm, a 4kW 3000 rpm motor and a 50-ton-rated cylinder with a 63 mm diameter, and napkin calculations show that it should move at 67 mm/s (2.6 inch/s) and produce a force of up to 28 tonnes. Am I correct in calculating force from the pump pressure and cylinder diameter and choosing a cylinder rated higher than that force? And how does the engine power factor in here?
Choose your cylinder first that you want to base your build on. There are online calculators for speed of the cylinder based on the pump speed and that's what you need. You want the cylinder to go at LEAST an inch / 2.54cm per second, preferably 2"/5cm per second. To achieve that you need a good pump and then get the motor with enough hp to drive that pump. Make sense? Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you! Looks like the components I found should work great then
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Stephen!
You mentioned that it is on casters. How much is the overall weight, and what type of casters do you use? Do they effect the press when it is in operation?
I haven't exactly weighed it but they are each rated at 200lbs and it moves around relatively easy with some pushing but not enough that when you're using the foot pedal it moves. It's quite solid. Thanks for watching, Stephan.
Did you do stress calculations on the frame (especially the welds)?
Does the hydraulic system have overpressure protection?
Does the system have an emergency kill switch that could be reached in case of an oil fire?
Is the operator protected in case of a burst hydraulic line?
Are you sure the tray is adequate protection when a workpiece drops out of the wrong end?
There’s a reason why you can’t buy presses for +-$1400. Safety chief among them.
Yes. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks what do you mean “yes”? You mean to say you did all of the above?
Don’t just give me a “yes. Thanks for watching” and treat me like an actual human being with legitimate concerns.
thanks for the video! ♥️
Thanks for watching.
Hopefully some day
The video is here when you need it. 👍
I like the design. What casters are on it? Do they get any flat spots in the rubber from the weight?
They are pretty big casters, about 4" wheels. No flat spots. Thanks for watching.
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
If you were going to make a new press after using this one for so long what are the things you would change? Thanks for the video. I am in the planning stage for building my own.
The ONLY thing I would consider changing is having the ability to have combo dies. Right now since the dies are 4" square, that's not big enough to hold a combo die (both drawing and flattening in one die). I would like to have made a special die holder conversion kit so that it would fit a combo die plate that was 8" wide so I could have a 6" die on top. I wouldn't ever sacrifice the ability to have square dies that you can turn 90 degrees though. Other than that, I wouldn't change a single thing.
Awesome video thank you! And one question I wasn’t able to find in the comments.. I see your link northern tool is for a 3500 psi cylinder will that work? Or would you try to find a 3000 psi cylinder? Thank You
As long as your valve/pump can support 3500psi, then you’re fine. Thanks for watching.
Very cool indeed!!!
Thanks for taking a look.
Tyrell sir. Thank you for sharing this. I got a little ol 110 welder. Would this work or should I just find someone with a bigger welder. I think I'll definitely build this. I mean it's a 30ton that's bigger than anything from coal iron for half the price.!!😀
I built this whole thing with a $125 stick welder. 😉. You can do it.
I saw in the parts description, you listed 2 cylinders. Is that incase we couldn't get the 29 ton, the 18 ton would work instead? Thanks
I couldn’t find another link for a 29 ton so I added the 18. I would definitely keep looking for a 5” bore, 12” stroke, 3000 psi cylinder.
So unfortunately the pump link doesn’t work anymore. Do you have another suggestion for one that is comparable to the one you use?
I just updated the link to a similar one. Check now. 👍🏻
Tyrell would you be able to update the links in your description? Some of them are “currently unavailable” and the piston leads to a 404 error
It seems they don’t have the 5” bore cylinder. I updated the link to a 4” bore, but that one is only 18 ton. The 5” bore was 28 ton. I would look for a 5” bore / 10” stroke cylinder somewhere else. Thanks for watching, Tyler.
I just built a press based off his design and I got my 5” bore 10” stroke 3000psi spartan cylinder from FIMIC and it worked great the only thing I would do differently is get a pump with a cast iron body instead of this pump with aluminum housing I got the one he recommended but outlet port blew off and tore threads after 4 days of use so now I’m waiting on new pump and out $150
I just started knife making, so for know i'm just doing basic knife work. But in the future i really love to do some complex knife making and damascus. And a hydraulic press is a future plan and this video is really helpfull thank you very much.
But this is a 30 ton press. what ton do you recommend minimum?
If you’re building one, go 30. It’s not that much cost difference unless you don’t have the floor space. Minimum I’d go is 16. Thanks for watching
you say 35gpm in the video, and then link a 13 GPM? I used a calculator the other day, suggested that 30-40GPm was what was required. I also have found that 30+GPM pumps are very expensive...
edit: ignore, you answered this already.
Thanks for watching! ❤️
Perfect timing on releasing the video. I'm currently on search of a discarded logger splitter now that burn seasons over out here. Because most of parts will come with it. Love the idea the 5 HP motor. Is that single phase and 120 VAC? Knowing the valve would need to be swapped out, but I assumed (oops) that's what controlled the speed. Thanks! One more thing, the foot pedal, is that a 2 way? Similar to a hydrostat tractor gas pedal? Awesome design!!!
The only thing you’re gonna use from the log splitter is the cylinder and even then it’s not ideal (too long). Unless you get one for free, don’t bother. You can buy the cylinder for $300 brand new. The foot pedal just sits on a rail and moves up/down/neutral and connects to the valve. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for your advise. The forge exceeded. How about the motor?
@@brooksmartin5183 if you’re asking about the motor for a log splitter, they are usually gas engines. You certainly don’t want that in your shop. Mine is a 5hp 220v single phase motor.
Mine started from a log splitter. I replaced the cylinder for a shorter and higher pressure rating. Also put a 3hp 3600rpm motor on it which is equivalent to a 5hp gas motor. (Electric has more torque which is what does the work). I wouldnt use the new log splitters unless the frame is reinforced. I’ve seen pictures of them twisting and bending the frames badly. Mine is an older one that’s built a little stronger, plus what I’ve done to it. My control valve doesn’t auto return anymore. There’s a part that can be taken out of the valve which is what makes it auto return. I believe it was a spring and a guide bolt under the detent cover. ( it’s been several years). If you can find a log splitter cheap enough to effectively modify or use parts from then it’s worth it. Don’t go spend $1k on one to make a press out of it. You can build a better one for that price.
@@erikcourtney1834 Thanks Erik for your advise! Between Tyrells and your feedback, you guys have talked me out that path. And Tyrells design seems have thought it through.
Thank you for the video... On your build, dis you have the hoses made to length or are they off the shelf lengths? Is there anything you would recomend doing differently now?
I had a guy come do the plumbing for it so he did the hoses custom. The only thing I’d do differently is that I’d put flat areas in either side of the die holders so I could put holders for different lengths of square tube on both sides for kiss blocks. That’s it, everything else seems great and I’ve been using this press for 5 years. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you for your time. I have build 200 Tire Hammers and am thinking about building a few presses.
hello, thank you for this great video. can you tell me how fast the motor is running? thank you so much !
It's a 3500 rpm single phase 5hp motor running on 220v. No VFD required for these, it runs full tilt all the time. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the very informative video, makes me want to try building one. I do have a question about the motor though, in the video you said you need a 5hp motor and it's all about the speed that it rotates. My shop will not have a 230v setup which is what is required of the 5hp motor you linked however, the same amazon seller has a 2hp motor that is the same rpm as the 5hp (3450) but it can run off of 115v. Do you know if the lower hp will affect it all? Like make it go slower up and down or could it just bind up altogether and not work to rotate the pump? Not sure how much torque is required to rotate the pump if much at all or if it is all about the rpm. Thanks for taking the time to read this and i am hoping someone can help me out.
You need the torque. Hp is about the power of a pump and that’s what you need to drive a pump that moves hydraulic oil. It just means you can’t drive as high a pump. I would strongly suggest you consider putting in 220v power to your shop. You’ll use it for so many things. I did mine myself, it’s very easy.
Did you ever consider a guillotine tool? Could it be beneficial under the press? What about forging dies? Could this set up use forging dies?
I need a guillotine tool for the anvil. I’m not sure what you mean by “forging” dies. I have drawing dies already. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Drop type forging dies. Kind of like a mould, to press pre-forms or an integral. I see now that I didn't explain myself at all, I apologize.
@@leighchristopherson2455 ah I see what you mean. Since each of my knives is unique, I don’t have dies for them. If I was doing production knives maybe, but that’s not my thing.
Did you use a wire welder or stick to do the welding?
This was over three years ago when I only had a stick welder. It was to do it today it would be with a mig welder instead. 👍
I know you probably get this alot but would you be willing to make custom blades for paying fans?
Sorry, I don’t have the time to do custom orders. This is just a hobby and I focus mostly on RUclips. Thanks for watching
Hey Denis! i am currently following this build to make my own press. Thank you! I do have a quick question though, ( i know there are a lot of variables) in your build, would a 2" longer stroke cylinder work effectively? or is it too long?
A longe cylinder would certainly work. Each cylinder is rated for pressure and force, the length of the ram usually isn't the consideration. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
do you have any plans or anything? or did you just wing it? i've watched red beard ops' hydraulic press video about a thousand times and was thinking that was going to be the plan for me but am always curious about new designs.
No plans, I just wing'ed it. Get your cylinder first and figure out the extended length of the cylinder so you know how high you should make your press. Then just build the frame to support that. They are actually quite a simple design, its just a big square with the cylinder at the bottom and a moving head bolted around the inner frame that slides up and down.
Do you have a list of metal you used? I’m not sure if the link works anymore
Not a specific list but the main parts are 5” x 8” H-beam cut in two 5’ lengths with 3 12” lengths used as the supports and the head. Thanks for watching.
Hmmm, where’d you source them beams? I can’t find any 5x8’s anywhere. It’s either 5x5 or 8x8
I got mine at my local steel yard. 5x5 or 8x8 would work also. I’d go with the 5x5 if you had to choose.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ight sweet. ‘Preciate ya, man!
Do you have a cost estimate for all the steel. I know it's going to be higher now but just trying to get an estimate would help in planning everything out.
I had my steel yard cut an i-beam into 5 pieces. Two 4-foot sections and three 1-foot sections and I just welded those up. Plus a foot or two of 1/2" bar to make the holders for the clevis pins. In total I think it cost me about $250 in steel or thereabouts.
This is much simpler construction than mine :P. 35 galon/minut? I think you mean Liters. 35galon/minut would be around 135cu in/sec (if my match is correct) :).
At first I put 35l/min pump to my press and it was too fast- I couldn't control the press at all. Did you ever change the pressure on the control valve? I've reduce the force to 25 ton (160Bar) but I can go up to 37 (250 bar).
Nice video, as always :)!
It’s a 35 GPM pump. It depends on the size of your cylinder though. Mine is a 5” cylinder so it takes more oil to move.
@@TyrellKnifeworks It can't be 35 galon/min. if you have 5" cylinder it means its' 12cm in diameter. the Surface of the piston is 122cm2. 5cm/sec is around 630cm/3 volume. 35l/min pump push 583cm3/sec. So everything is right except of the unit :). And the link you posted is 13 GPM which is moves around 2.75"/sec.. this actually might be correct :).
@@DBCraftWorld Sorry, you're correct! It's 13, not 35. Sorry bout that. Not sure why I screwed that up. Fixed it in the desc.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Its totally fine😁. Just noticed it and thought I'll let you know👊
Is your cylinder a 5”bore with a 12”stroke?
It is a 5" bore, but I don't quite remember if it was a 10" or 12" stroke. With the flat dies in it, it has about 6 inches of travel and those dies are 2" thick, so it's probably a 10". Either would work though, you just need to change the construction a bit. Thanks for watching, Matt.
Can I sharpen a knife with a flap disc with an angle grinder after heat treatment?
Not really. It’s won’t be accurate and will leave radial scratches all over your knife.
If I'd like to participate in your next build challenge, how can I get in on that?
Viewers can participate by joining the FB group. To participate as a maker, we require you have at least 1000 subs. In either case, you should join the FB group: facebook.com/groups/735742651119526/
Damn $12-1400. I bet it would cost more today. But hopefully I will find out soon!
Yeah, the price of steel is higher, but I don’t think it would be drastically higher. Thanks for watching
How long is the stroke on the cylinder ram the link expired for the one you listed can you give me the specification on cylinder please? Thanks Dennis
You only need around an 8” stroke. The one I have is a 5” bore with an 8” stroke that operates at 58k pounds of pressure.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for all your help brother with this project and the grinder too!
I got another question, sorry this will be the last one this week I promise! Do you have to use the full stroke of the cylinder? I got a 10” stroke but I only have @2” of room between beams. Not enough for dies nor Clevis pin mounts
@@huntintrailmetals9343 You certainly don't need the full stroke. Mine is an 8" stroke and I have it setup so that I can use the full stroke though it depends on the die I'm using. I have a feather slicing die that's quite long so I have about 5" of room below that. Keep in mind that you'll want to accomodate dies like that. Your dies are typically 1-1/2" thick at most, even at 8" of stroke you have room for 5" of material. 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you Dennis for your knowledge and patience!
If you build it, might as well overbuild. I would like to see how the linkage and food pedal were designed.
Yes, I realized after I forgot to video that part. I'll do a follow up on it at some point. Thanks for watching, Ryan.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I was wondering about the foot pedal also (I'm assuming that's how it operates?) Since the valve returns to neutral, do you have to actuate the pedal in two directions? Up and then down?
@@tackthecack677 Yes, the front of the pedal has a solid round-bar linkage to the valve. The pedal has a round tube welded to the bottom and its over a horizontal round bar. Then you push down on the front (like an accelerator pedal in a car) to press and push with your heal to retract. It's very fast and easy. I'll show it in a future video.
Perfect! That’s kind of what I was imagining. Thanks for another great video
What does it say on the hydraulic hoses
I'm not sure. Most of them have hose wraps for protection on them anyway. Are you asking about sizes?
Yea size and what kind of grade what psi they're rated for that kind of stuff
There are so many different kinds I was going to try and just copy the ones the person who installed them did
Accept speed"rpm" is not the same thing as power. You can have a 5 hp motor in several different rpm's. Many other flaws I see in your video but..... ya
Thanks for watching
The Amazon link to your hydraulic cylinder is no longer active.
I just updated the links. It's hard to find a 5" bore cylinder that's 10".