Correction the to VPP jumper - The actual VPP voltage for many EPROMS is 12v or more. The jumper probably toggles between 12v and some other voltage. The programmer does support 3.3v chips though.
I was thinking of consolizing my MV-1F MVS but decided to Build myself a Super-Gun instade as it allows me to hook up my different arcade boards like my Golden Axe, Street Fighter 2 Turbo and Double Dragon boards to my TV alone with the MV-1F and the MV-6F I repaired some time back. I also have an Arcade Cab but using a Super-Gun is more convenient as it pretty much plug-n-play and you can sit on the sofa with friends and play those classic arcade boards like you would on a console. That’s a nice Consolization you've done on that MV-1FZ, I've also done the coin cell mods (CR2032) to both my MV-1F and MV-6F. The MV-6F hade one of those horrible ni-cd batteries that had leaked (got cheep from ebay) I managed to get to it before it caused more damage thankfully. I'm still on uni-bios v3.1 and need to update both my systems.
Yeah, a supergun is a good idea! I've got a supergun board that allows controller, scart and ATX PSU etc for any JAMMA boards. I've got a number of MVS boards to look at soon I think. Wish I had a Golden Axe and Double Dragon =O If you've bought the unibios from Raz updates are free - just contact him with SN photo from underside and he can send you an update.
I have no definitive answer why they dont erase every time either, but I also had the idea that it may be something to do with light angles. I came to this because when doing a lot at once, the chips at the farthest from the uv tube inside weren't always erased, or would exibit similar to what you seen, while those mostly centered were blank pretty much every time.
Hi! Thank you for this content. I just have a question: Can i just remove the 221 resistor at 05:23 and ignore removing the another components? Doing that way will make this proccess a lot easier.
Interesting vid. I’ve had the exact same problem recently wiping some 27C400 EPROMs most wiped fine but a couple did exactly as you described. I have a the same programmer to you (different revision) and the same eraser as you as well as an ex BT commercial eraser. No idea why as once I stuck them back in to wipe for a while longer they worked fine. I always do mine for 35 min
The MVS has so many mods and model variants its pretty daunting to get started (grey are for me). Good work on that battery and i know all too well of solder pads just peeling of with heat. My thoughts are they glued the components into place for solder dipping ? probably way off ?! Great video!
Yes - tonnes of MVS models. The easiest models to consolize are those with controller ports built on (as that part is a pain to do imo). The 2 slot is quite popular for that reason. You are correct with regards to glueing on components - they usually wave solder the components on after they've been glued into position.
On that Dymo labeller, you should be able to make any symbol you want. First, just use the D-Pad to position the cursor where you want the symbol, then press the Insert button, then choose Symbols with the D-Pad from the list of options, then press the OK button, then flip between pages of symbols using the D-Pad, and select the symbol you want, and press the OK button to actually choose it. It's more work than if they keypad had keys for every symbol, but it should get you whatever you want.
Thanks, a few people have said that but there's no 'Insert' button on this one! I will take another look later but its the most basic model ever and doesn't appear to do anything but A-Z 0-9.
I talked about this a bit on the Megadrive Cart Repair for My Mate Vince. There are numerous EPROM programmers available - all have pros and cons. For most of the older 8 bit systems you cannot go wrong, but some of the larger 40 and 42 pin chips can only be done with the more expensive programmers (and adapter).
How does the CR2032 holds up in comparison with the old battery? I've read that they don't last as long as the older one and you have to replace it more frequently.
I fitted this almost 12 months ago and its still working. I would guess 2 to 3 years out of a good CR2032. But they won't leak. A NiCad or NiMh battery would leak eventually.
weird. from the brief look at it, it looks to be the same as mine. Just to left of the settings button on mine is an "insert" button, where you can add a second line (insert a line break) or insert symbols, etc. Regardless, thank you for the videos. I've been enjoying this series on the Neo Geo stuff. :D
So why use a EPROM that requires UV to clear when I'm sure that there are compatible chips that'll erase via a push of a button? (IE: A programmer that'll overwrite the chip itself)
Maybe there is Maybe there ain't but why use a new chip when he had the one that was in the console already and my self have had consoles that don't like modern chips even when they are basically the same. Chris knows what he is doing
I am not familiar with any EEPROM chips that are pin compatible - but there's possibly a PLCC version of the 27C1024 that is soft eraseable? It's common to need to use EEPROMs for some of this old stuff. With a 'to DIP' adapter any old 16 bit EEPROM could be used though.
David Reason - I've been following Gadget for about a year. Some of what he does is miles above my head. My question wasn't to "Question" his work, but, just to understand the purpose of dealing with this kind of chip when I figured there'd be a software solution.
Kind sir, Another informative video and certainly helpful regardless if you an greenhorn or a professional. Well done Chris. Always glad to see your works and continue to support you. I posted this on the Neo-Geo thread on Atariage.com for you bro. Its on page 462, post #11,530 for you to view. atariage.com/forums/topic/223548-the-official-neo-geo-thread/page-462 Thank you as always my good man. Keep up the great work you certainly do for the community! Anthony..
I've had grief with eproms I've bought that were supposed to be 'blanked' and weren't, on a similar board and the same software. I gave up and just buy brand new chips now.
Hey Chris, Sorry to bother you from your busy schedule. But good news, Today marks the 4th Anniversary of the Neo-Geo thread on Atariage.com. Come by and celebrate with us if you like bro. 8^) Anthony..
Hi Chris, hope all is well your end? Don't worry about your swearing on your vids. From what I can gather, RUclips are not worried about how much you swear, it's just a stupid advertising issue. Warmest regards Wayne and Nina.
If you would like to support me on Patreon:- www.patreon.com/GadgetUK164
Correction the to VPP jumper - The actual VPP voltage for many EPROMS is 12v or more. The jumper probably toggles between 12v and some other voltage. The programmer does support 3.3v chips though.
Thank you Chris. Always great to see you doing what you do best. 8^)
Anthony..
That's one sexy consolized MVS :D
Thanks =D There are some nicer ways to consolize these but as basic as it is, it looks and works OK. The chrome Neo Geo logos look great!
I was thinking of consolizing my MV-1F MVS but decided to Build myself a Super-Gun instade as it allows me to hook up my different arcade boards like my Golden Axe, Street Fighter 2 Turbo and Double Dragon boards to my TV alone with the MV-1F and the MV-6F I repaired some time back.
I also have an Arcade Cab but using a Super-Gun is more convenient as it pretty much plug-n-play and you can sit on the sofa with friends and play those classic arcade boards like you would on a console.
That’s a nice Consolization you've done on that MV-1FZ, I've also done the coin cell mods (CR2032) to both my MV-1F and MV-6F. The MV-6F hade one of those horrible ni-cd batteries that had leaked (got cheep from ebay) I managed to get to it before it caused more damage thankfully. I'm still on uni-bios v3.1 and need to update both my systems.
Yeah, a supergun is a good idea! I've got a supergun board that allows controller, scart and ATX PSU etc for any JAMMA boards. I've got a number of MVS boards to look at soon I think. Wish I had a Golden Axe and Double Dragon =O If you've bought the unibios from Raz updates are free - just contact him with SN photo from underside and he can send you an update.
You're welcome sir. Keep it up! 8^)
You're welcome bro. Glad to liked it. 8^)
Anthony..
I have no definitive answer why they dont erase every time either, but I also had the idea that it may be something to do with light angles. I came to this because when doing a lot at once, the chips at the farthest from the uv tube inside weren't always erased, or would exibit similar to what you seen, while those mostly centered were blank pretty much every time.
I think you're right, its probably light angles and on some occasions perhaps I don't leave it long enough.
I've got the same Chinese special eprom eraser and it often needs 30-60 min.
Thanks, I am sure that's what it is - more time required =D
Hi! Thank you for this content. I just have a question: Can i just remove the 221 resistor at 05:23 and ignore removing the another components? Doing that way will make this proccess a lot easier.
I think if you test on connectivity you may find that resistor is what feeds the battery from the charge circuit, so possibly yes!
Interesting vid. I’ve had the exact same problem recently wiping some 27C400 EPROMs most wiped fine but a couple did exactly as you described. I have a the same programmer to you (different revision) and the same eraser as you as well as an ex BT commercial eraser. No idea why as once I stuck them back in to wipe for a while longer they worked fine. I always do mine for 35 min
Thanks, maybe I am not giving them long enough! I might try 30 minutes next time to see if that works first time.
The MVS has so many mods and model variants its pretty daunting to get started (grey are for me). Good work on that battery and i know all too well of solder pads just peeling of with heat. My thoughts are they glued the components into place for solder dipping ? probably way off ?! Great video!
Yes - tonnes of MVS models. The easiest models to consolize are those with controller ports built on (as that part is a pain to do imo). The 2 slot is quite popular for that reason. You are correct with regards to glueing on components - they usually wave solder the components on after they've been glued into position.
On that Dymo labeller, you should be able to make any symbol you want. First, just use the D-Pad to position the cursor where you want the symbol, then press the Insert button, then choose Symbols with the D-Pad from the list of options, then press the OK button, then flip between pages of symbols using the D-Pad, and select the symbol you want, and press the OK button to actually choose it. It's more work than if they keypad had keys for every symbol, but it should get you whatever you want.
Thanks, a few people have said that but there's no 'Insert' button on this one! I will take another look later but its the most basic model ever and doesn't appear to do anything but A-Z 0-9.
I have to thank you for this!! Just checked the printer again and there is an insert button for symbols!!!! =D
No problem -- the interface is a little clunky on that model Dymo, but it gets the job done with some back and forth between the menus.
What kind of hardware do you sugest to record eproms?
I talked about this a bit on the Megadrive Cart Repair for My Mate Vince. There are numerous EPROM programmers available - all have pros and cons. For most of the older 8 bit systems you cannot go wrong, but some of the larger 40 and 42 pin chips can only be done with the more expensive programmers (and adapter).
How does the CR2032 holds up in comparison with the old battery? I've read that they don't last as long as the older one and you have to replace it more frequently.
I fitted this almost 12 months ago and its still working. I would guess 2 to 3 years out of a good CR2032. But they won't leak. A NiCad or NiMh battery would leak eventually.
Thank you for the answer, really like your channel.
Thanks! And no problem =D
On the dymo, you have to insert a symbol, and pick the period/dot. ;)
Thanks, but on mine there is no 'insert symbol' option? It's really basic and quite limited.
weird. from the brief look at it, it looks to be the same as mine. Just to left of the settings button on mine is an "insert" button, where you can add a second line (insert a line break) or insert symbols, etc.
Regardless, thank you for the videos. I've been enjoying this series on the Neo Geo stuff. :D
Thanks!!!! Just checked printer again and it does have the symbol insert feature!!!!! Cheers!
So why use a EPROM that requires UV to clear when I'm sure that there are compatible chips that'll erase via a push of a button? (IE: A programmer that'll overwrite the chip itself)
Maybe there is Maybe there ain't but why use a new chip when he had the one that was in the console already and my self have had consoles that don't like modern chips even when they are basically the same. Chris knows what he is doing
I am not familiar with any EEPROM chips that are pin compatible - but there's possibly a PLCC version of the 27C1024 that is soft eraseable? It's common to need to use EEPROMs for some of this old stuff. With a 'to DIP' adapter any old 16 bit EEPROM could be used though.
David Reason - I've been following Gadget for about a year. Some of what he does is miles above my head. My question wasn't to "Question" his work, but, just to understand the purpose of dealing with this kind of chip when I figured there'd be a software solution.
Always good to challenge things!! =D
Kind sir,
Another informative video and certainly helpful regardless if you an greenhorn or a professional. Well done Chris. Always glad to see your works and continue to support you.
I posted this on the Neo-Geo thread on Atariage.com for you bro.
Its on page 462, post #11,530 for you to view.
atariage.com/forums/topic/223548-the-official-neo-geo-thread/page-462
Thank you as always my good man. Keep up the great work you certainly do for the community!
Anthony..
Thanks as always =D
I've had grief with eproms I've bought that were supposed to be 'blanked' and weren't, on a similar board and the same software. I gave up and just buy brand new chips now.
Hey Chris,
Sorry to bother you from your busy schedule. But good news, Today marks the 4th Anniversary of the Neo-Geo thread on Atariage.com. Come by and celebrate with us if you like bro. 8^)
Anthony..
Congrats =D
Hi Chris, hope all is well your end? Don't worry about your swearing on your vids. From what I can gather, RUclips are not worried about how much you swear, it's just a stupid advertising issue. Warmest regards Wayne and Nina.
Thanks - yes, just about OK! Just had one hell of a year so far with various personal problem =/