Volvo C30, Front Left Axle Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 10 апр 2022
- I am NOT responsible for any damage that you may cause to your car. These videos may not always be by the Volvo bulletin, but they have proven successful for me.
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My 2011 Volvo c30 currently has enough boost to send a rod to space, love your c30, it's what I aspire to have mine preform like
Just to add.... used a ratchet strap around the axle hooked to the sway bar on one side and the front the control arm by the ball joint... added pressure with that and used a long hooked pry bar to get the axle to pop out on a M66 Manual C30.... getting that thing out is the most work of the whole project. Thanks for the video man!
Also I just pop off both the tie rod and the knuckle from the ball joint to get the axle out.
Great video, disconnecting the lower control arm was a good idea. But can we just appreciate how horrific of a design it was for Volvo to have the c-clamp aligned by trial-and-error and require such an angle to pry the axle?
To be fair to Volvo, this is a Ford design, the same suspension as a Ford Focus MK2, a cost saving effort on Ford's part !
I really like that light your using under the car the black and red 1. Can you supply me a link where 2 buy..Thanks again 4 all your Great Videos
It was a gift, but I think it came from Harbor Freight.
Hey Michael. Have you found a need to install the ALG Performance Axle Washers to prevent CV Joint Wear? I’m rolling on Silvers Coilovers eating up axles. Watching you to replace my driver side. Greatly Appreciate your channel.
Since raising the engine and transmission with my AWD swap, this helped with the angle of the joints and my axles are lasting much longer now, so I haven't bothered with anything else. I'd look into the roll center correction kits before putting washers on the end of the axle.
Thanks MH! Will do.
Hint my friend Axle spline can be tapped out with bolt half way out..hit with hammer 2-3 times and WA LA..that spline Bolt is gonna be tossed anyway
Hello Michael I can help but notice that your front rotors look factory are those the 300 Mm and if so are you running akebono pads as well and do you reckon I should upgrade to a big brake kit
Factory 320mm, which are definitely worthwhile over the 300s. I had the Wilwood BBK and reverted back to the Volvo 320, since they are perfectly sufficient for how I use the car.
Stock rotors, lifetime warranty through FCP Euro. Hawk HP+ racing pads.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I’ve purchased the Zimmerman rotors along with the akebono pads from FCP EURO but I’m on the factory 300 Mm rotors thanks very much
I see you have Volvo 320mm brakes. Any suggestions on how to do a 320 brake upgrade and where to find the right parts?
My video on the brakes is long overdue. I'll make one soon.
All you need are the calipers (which should come with the bracket and retainer clip) and the rotors.
The original 300mm brake lines will fit without any problems, but it's a great time to upgrade to braided lines. The aftermarket braided lines are the same for both 300mm and 320mm brakes.
You can bend back the lip of the 300mm dust shields to clear the 320mm rotors, or buy the 320mm dust shields. I personally got rid of the dust shields after switching to sticky tires, because rocks getting stuck between the shields and rotors became a daily occurrence.
You can usually find good condition calipers for ~$100-200 on ebay or even in the junk yard. The Mazda Speed 3 uses the same calipers. Some Focus ST models use the same calipers as well.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I look forward to that video. The stock 300mm leave at lot to be desired with spirited driving. Your videos have been really great for helping me work on this platform. Please keep posting these helpful videos!
Should I change only 1 if it’s bad or change both just to make sure?
No need to replace both, just replace the one that is bad.
Will removing the control arm bolt mess with alignment at all?
It can, not by much, but it can definitely alter the alignment. However, I've never bothered with realigning the car after swapping out control arms. I've checked it a few times and it's always how I last set it up.
Curious did you use jack to simulate normal load..after install? Or did you put tire back on...let car sit normal..then tighten down..of course with wheel turned to the left to access LCA..I know silly. question..pls answer..also do you prefer this method rather than separating ball joint....my brother used a 5ibs slide hammer..popped CV out fairly easily..
Yes, I'll jack up the knuckle until the jack is fully supporting the weight, then tighten everything down. This process is much easier than separating the ball joint.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken kool..thank You for kind reply. I am doing my Drivers side CV Axle on my C30 Turbo 2.5 automatic this week end. Did you ever use a 5 ibs Slide Hammer to remove Cv Axles..or do you prefer Prybar Pickle fork etc..Curious let me know. Also if you have any other tips for easy removal etc..
@@gregorylichtenson757 You'll need the specialty Volvo axle puller tool if you want to use a slide hammer, as most of the generic axle pullers can't fit in the limited space on the Volvo transmissions. The pickle fork hasn't let me down yet.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken I just received my large one 63.5mmWide..better than that 48mm they usually supply with 7 ibs slide
Please send me link to purchase the size pickle fork you used..Length and Fork Mouth Width . Also what size Socket did you use to remove LCA 22mm ?
I can't remember the exact pickle fork dimensions, it was whatever they had in stock at my local auto part store. I want to say it's about 18" long.
The inner LCA bolts are all 15mm on my car.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken thanks
Is there a reason you didn't remove the control arm ball joint nut instead? Does that method not work to get the outer CV joint from the knuckle?
It's a generally easier process to just remove the inner bolts on the LCA.
Unless you have a very shallow allen wrench to hold the ball joint bolt in place while you loosen the nut, you often need to remove the axle in order to easily disconnect the LCA ball joint.
Okay this video was key for me. How to donate to you?
I have a patreon that is linked in the description, but I may close that account soon.
I'm just happy to help and ask for people to subscribe and watch my videos. Interaction with my videos is the best way to give back.
Is the passenger side the same? I need to get it out to replace the CBV.
Passenger side is linked in the description. Same process, except you'll have two 10mm bolts and a bracket for the carrier bearing and the bolt on the LCA will be more challenging to remove around the oil lines. ruclips.net/video/e55oVmoOWdQ/видео.html
I've never removed the axle to swap out the CBV, even the larger dual port. It's tight, but it's manageable.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken gotcha, I spent some time trying to get to the lower bolt on the CBV for the express purpose of putting in the dual port. I couldn't get to it for the life of me lol.
Hi Again...
I Like all your Videos..1 thing I dislike is that you don't Most of the time put tools used and part sizes..But hey nobody is perfect ya know. HOPE ALL is going well with the New Porsche. I have something to Add to your video..When installing new Cv..I was told it's a Good idea 2 make sure C Clip is in the open position at 12 0 Clock..But I am sure you may know this already hearing what u said about Turning CV if it doesn't Pickle Fork out..Turning 1/4 turn til it's Out. Curious how many 1/4 turns it took..and how long. Pls reply bck. And again Love all your Vids. Keep them coming. NXT Sat I am replacing Driver's side CV...hopefully I can do it as fast as u did. I am thinking about 1 hr perhaps a tad longer..let me know your thoughts.
Sorry for the missing information! Volvo changed a lot of their bolt head sizes over the years and with their replacement parts, so I've found that a lot of that information is not applicable to all P1 Volvo owners. People seem to get more upset when they think you've told them the wrong bolt size, than to not tell them the bolt size at all.
That is the best method or reinstalling the axle and C clip.
My removal method of turning the axle 1/4 turn until it easily pries out has usually been successful within less than two full rotations of the axle.
I have I fast follow up..When *Rotating CV TO PoP Cv out..as you Turned those 1/4 turns..how many kicks until you turned another 1/4..I just don't want to Over Kick Pickle Fork..what maybe 2 kicks or 1
..or 3..I want to have all my bases covered ya know. PLEASE RSVP ASAP..Thank s Man..hope all is well💪💚💪
@@gregorylichtenson757 If I can't get it by the 3rd solid kick, then I rotate and try again.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken fantastic..You Rock🇺🇸💚🇺🇸💪
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Ok Great...Wish me Luck ..I am Replacing Drivers Side Cv Axle Saturday...I like how after CV is Out..the Ease of inserting Into Trans box.. *Off Course I'll have that C- Clip Opening at 12 O'CLOCK position . ALSO just received my 16 inch pickle fork from Harbor tools...thanks for that tip..if you have anything to add..pls drop me a line before Sat...Thank You again...I like your Style
what are you doing with that axle? can't get my hands on a manual drivers axle to save my life.
The old one? I just threw it away.
Re : Hash *Question...
Un related but related..lol
I have Funnel and Small tube to top off Automatic Transmission fluid thru DipStick etc...Do you find that without Flushing Trans Oil..that you can Top Up Oil thru the Dipstick🤔 from time 2 time..I will assume that Even though it's a Sealed Transmission Case that it loses Oil thru evaporation..not alot but a little Over time??..And Have Fun in Arizona..hopefully that's a Pleasure trip Not Bizzness...😇
I have manual transmissions, so no dipstick or easy way to refill. I just change it very 30k miles and haven't found I lose much fluid in between.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Got Cha..Thanks Enjoy AZ
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken Hey hope all is well with you this Fine Father's day...My Lord!! And I mean that whole Heartedly..I could Not get that DARN driver's side CV Axle Out..UGH🧐🧐🧐😕 I noticed that there is No Pry Room any way you slice it!! I am thinking because yours is a Manual..that the Configuration of your Transmission and CV Axle allows you Room to pry against Sub Frame..because with this Automatic..I tried virtually everything from 8am til about 1 hour ago. How did you do it so easily on Video..nothing worked..I rotated Cv Base 1/4 turn after 2 kicks each..only thing is either my 16 inch pickle is to Big..or I am just getting Old...Geez..getting old..that kinda blows..Yikes RSVP ASAP PLZ..perhaps I am not positioning Pickle fork correctly...also how where you able to kick Pickle fork without Pickle fork falling ..where you resting fork on LCA to steady before kicking..where are you positioning front of Fork on the corners of CV or Flat straight corners? I think I may have been positioning the fork above T Rod instead of Below...I think that's why the angle of fork wasn't giving me clearance to fork..before kicking fork..when placing fork on base of CV..did you tap Back of Pickle fork with hammer to push Into and behind base of CV before kicking
@@gregorylichtenson757 I've changed a few auto axles and it is definitely harder than on the manual transmission.
I was always able to simply wedge the pickle fork in place before kicking it. You don't want to tap it in with a hammer, as this could force the axle spline at a weird angle.
One tip if you give up... Which I did on one of my cars... I left the axle "cup" installed in the transmission and replaced the whole thing from the inner CV joint/boot. In other words, pulled the boot off the cup and then removed the rest of the axle. Clean up the cup. Ready the new axle with the boot and plenty of grease around the CV joint. Fit it back to the cup. Then the only fight was securing the band clamp on the inner CV boot with it installed on the car. Challenging, but it worked for me. Though this will only work if you are swapping the same brand axles, as many aftermarket axles have different CV joint construction than OEM.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken ya know I may just intrust a mechanic 4 this side..passenger is lots easier. I would imagine it's like 2 hours labor..although a Good Shop could do it in less than an Hour...what do VOLVO DEALERSHIPS USE..A SPECIAL VOLVO TOOL?..and what would that tool be? And what the Heck would it look like. I would imagine all a Mechanic would do..is put on a lift..and just pry from below car as opposed to jacking up etc..your thoughts Master also..after this CV is installed..I am gonna Spray the New CV Boots with water proof Silicone to preserve the boots that much longer..its definitely a conspiracy that CVs..have Shitty Rubber boots..even Volvo CVS..Crappy Rubber Boots
Almost forgot..Whats the *Torque on that LSA BOLT ?
Control arm front in the sub-frame rear mounting
1st step: Torque to 60Nm
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 90° Degrees
Control arm front in the sub-frame front mounting: Torque to 175 Nm.
Lower link arm in subframe: Torque to 90 Nm
Lower link arm in longitudinal stay: Torque to 115 Nm
Drive shaft to front wheel hub
1st step: Torque to 35 Nm
2nd step: Tighten/rotate 90° Degrees
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken got it Thanks Again..Have a Safe Day God Bless
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken just the 1 You removed..So that's 60Nm..plus 90 degree extra ? Control Arm Bolt..which I believe you said was a 15mm...
@@gregorylichtenson757 I believe the one I disconnected is the 175 Nm bolt. But maybe I'm reading this wrong. The only bolts I ever torque to spec are head bolts and lug nuts. Everything else I just tighten until it feels sufficient.
This is the Driver side..alot harder than passenger..passenger just kinda comes out
You missed the step where you buy the incredibly overpriced Volvo axle. : )
@Senna_Grillo 12 I bought a cheap-o left axle for $160 and it failed in 10 months. Fortunately I was within warranty and got a full refund. I went with a Napa axle that has a 2 year warranty for $250 and I'm at the 21 month with no vibrations or failures. I'm not clear why a Ford Focus axle is so expensive.
AMOGUS
Compress the Suspension..please explain..and excuse my stupidy..
You want the suspension to be compressed under it's resting load, to simulate the car sitting stationary on the ground, as that is the neutral point where you want your bushings to rest. If you tighten bushings with the suspension unloaded, then they will already be under load when you put the car back on the ground. This can cause premature wear and affect handling characteristics.
@@MyNameIdeasWereTaken When I changed my lower and upper control arms on the rear, I just used a jack to compress the suspension to simulate being on the ground with the weight of the car compressing the springs !