The Closet Historian always says something to the effect of “if you can see my little mistakes you are standing way too close to me” and I love her for it! It looks beautiful from where I’m standing, Abby! 😉
@@AbbyCox It's like that hypothetical infinite hotel where all the rooms are occupied but one is always open; you're always digging deeper into madness despite already being at the bottom.
Quote of the Day: “You all who act like you don’t do it are liars and your pants, they are on fire. I can smell the sulphur from over here.” (I love this quote)
@@tambriggs I love how she has basically gotten to the point where she is like, 'Yes I sew over my pins. Don't like it? Don't watch or get over it.' Sadly she seems like she is to nice to actually say that. Although it is funny to see her try to find the best way to say it with out actually saying it. 😄 🤣🤣🤣
Never forget: I bet you at least some of the folks working off the pattern, or even just the fashion plate they'd seen in the catalogue (with a sense of, 'f it, I can do that!') back in the 1910s, will have had the same meltdown over messed-up facings, swagging, placket shenanigans, etc. Fashions change, but sewing kerfuffle is eternal 💜 Thank you for sharing it (it turned out amazing!)
As someone who used to live in rural northern Indiana, the idea of Indiana Fashion Week is hilarious, because I keep on imagining a fashion show where all of the looks involve old flannel shirts and John Deere caps.
Really. How did we produce Bill Blass? And, if you trek up to the Fort to catch the Blass show at the art museum...let us know so we can fan girl, Abby!
@kristen paff I live in rural northeast KY. That is how we dress here. Go out in some of the fashion week outfits and u r gonna b the talk of the town. Talk about sticking out like a sore thumb. Now go to bigger cities in the state and that still goes. The only time I can think of that “high fashion” is Derby Day. PERIOD 🤣🤣🧢👩🏻🌾🧑🏼🌾👍🏼❤️
There is another RUclipsr that I watch (Laura Kampf) who makes things (to put it mildly). She has a great quote that I have adopted: Every Defect Gets Respect. Your skirt does not look cheap. The mistake that you think is glaring, isn't to the average Joanne. You worked hard on this beautiful and clever bespoke dress. Give that defect respect and let yourself appreciate your work and enjoy wearing it. You look amazing in it.
Regarding sewing without modern instructions: I would still consider myself very much a beginner, but I decided to jump in and give it a try. I took a tip from Evelyn Wood (love her channel!) and sat down with the pattern pieces and the limited instructions I had, and wrote out a more detailed plan before I got started, just to spare me some mid-project anxiety. Did I miss a couple things? Yeah. But I still figured them out. You’re right, Abby; it can be pretty intuitive.
Yep, Evelyn is amazing in that regard, you can pretty much learn all you need to know about sewing through her channel. For the advanced haute couture and historical stuff you can then just move on to Bernadette Banner, especially her videos with Barbara, a professional designer, corset maker and seamstress, are SO educating.
It is. I started using Burda patterns from the magazine back in the 60s. The only magazine out there was in German. Trace the pattern pieces from the labyrinth of multi coloured lines and use a dictionary to figure out how they go together. Once you have fumbled your way through one it gets easier, unless it requires tailoring, then all bets are off.
I hope this doesn't sound mean, but I am really heartened to see you make construction and fabric mistakes. I don't 'cosplay' but I have started to make my own clothes again, after decades of not bothering, and I have to dig myself out of so many construction holes... Now that I know even people as experienced as you can do that I don't feel so bad about my own efforts. Thanks for being so transparent.
Just left this recommendation on Nicole Rudolph’s channel, the book, “Our Hearts were Young and Gay,” by Cornelia Otis Skinner and Emily Kimbrough-two young ladies making a cross Atlantic voyage, by themselves, to France. They made the trip in the 20s, I believe. The book is soooo funny, and might help you set the mood for your trip. I inherited it from my Great Aunt Minnie, born in 1889, who actually made a few of those trans-Atlantic trips herself.
I think the sequel is even better. (In spite of the fact that I can’t remember the title, and it’s not shelved with Our Hearts. So many books, so little organization!)
😁 One of the greatest gifts of historical dress is never having to deal with hair removal because none of it's ever going to be visible anyway. But I'm glad you're having fun, Abby! Love that blouse by the way!
Re: stitching over pins... depends on the needle! Have just started using size 70 Microtex needles for fine woven rayon, and TRY and take my pins out as I go... but with a heavier needle, yes, absolutely! My mum specifically taught me to pin perpendicular instead of parallel so I *could* sew over pins!
Same with my first sewing teacher (a retired professional wardrobe and costume worker). She told me that pinning perpendicular to the seam line caused less distortion of the fabric - I've never tried to collect statistics on this but it seems right - and made it easier to remove them as they approached the needle. Oh yes, and to sew over them if necessary, "but don't tell anyone I said that".
@@agcons nice. I tend to use glass-headed pins, makes it easier to grab them before you sew over them. My mum's aunt was a professional dressmaker, so she passed on lots of useful things :-) (I never knew the aunt, but she taught my mum to sew).
I think it depends on the machine a little, too. When I got my grandma’s machine (circa late 40s model-straight stitch, no zigzag), my mom said, “you know how on your regular machine if you sew over pins and your needle hits the pin it’s usually okay because the needle usually just kinda slides past it somehow? That won’t happen with this machine-if the needle hits the pin it’ll break the needle.” I tested that-you know, for science-and, yeah, if the needle hits the pin, it’s Not Good. So I use clips instead of pins whenever I can. You absolutely can’t sew over those but you can put them within the seam allowance and sew past them hi h is almost as good.
Just be careful - on some almost-vintage models, even if they don't break needles over pins, stitching over those can cause a bit of a tension issue. Depends on the fabric and the exact settings
Abby, thank you so much for mentioning us here at StitchWorks Indy!!! It was so lovely meeting and talking with you. Glad you had a good time at Indiana Fashion Week! I may have to get this pattern and try my hand at it!
So, totally inspired by both you and Nicole doing capsule wardrobes for your cruise, I am going to be making my own 1890s to 1900s capsule wardrobe for a trip to Paris in December. This may be pure crazy but I am giving myself time to do it. I will be satisfied with wearable garments 🤭 but it is ages since I actually drafted a pattern rather than following a commercial one. This may lead to my own decent into madness, but at least I will look fabulous when I get there. Thanks for the inspiration, Abby
Re: Stitching over pins... I honestly don't anymore. One time I was sewing over pins and hit one perfectly which bent the pin severely rather than breaking the needle. It was scary for a newbie, so I have been scarred for life. I love the trained skirt and look forward to seeing all the looks you can make with it. 😍
I once hit a pin and now the needle of my sewing machine is bent and sews like 1 mm to the right of where it's supposed to be. Very annoying when you want to make detailed things. 0/10, would not recommend.
Funny because when I run over a pin and break my needle i just swear and find the pack of new needles lmaoo (i did, to be fair, learn on an industrial machine where that was just about the worst that might happen lol)
I broke a needle and the tip dropped down into the bobbin area of my vintage machine. At the time we lived out in the middle of nowhere. I decided that was a type of hell I could avoid -easily!
She said “To ##### news that interviewed me, I’m sorry that I said corn beans and soy! I, I.. had a hard time heari- 🤣😭” 😅😂🤣😭 I’m dead asf 💀 That’s some shit I do *regularly* especially when I’m nervous and tryna be serious, I just fly right past what they ask me and then truly think/consider abt the question I was asked while I’m giving my answer in an attempt to stay on my toes, but it bites me in the ass every time 🤣 it’s humiliating so I totally get it! But honestly, knowing how to laugh it off when it happens (exactly like you did 👏🏼) really warms ppl up to you and your personality overall and it actually helps you to relax more after that as well. Basically what I’m saying is that it’s happened to me so often at this point that I’ve now learned how to turn the embarrassing moments into a “thinking-on-the-fly funny ice breaker” if you will 😅🤷🏼♀️ so I loved yours! 👏🏼 the best part was you cracking up abt it 😂
Love to hear you admit to stitching over pins. When I took Home Ec back in the dark ages, we were REQUIRED to stitch over pins as a time maximizing technique. One of many techniques that are decried in current videos.
There are so many different ways to approach sewing! I learned professional/industrial sewing at trade school and one of the things they taught us was just...pin as little as possible. You barely pin a straight seam because it wastes time - and if there are no pins you don't even get the conundrum of sewing over pins. I do pin my seams but mostly just the difficult/weird curvy seams or ones where there are multiple layers. And I absolutely sew over pins. The other great trade school tip is to use a 1 cm seam allowance, and a 6 mm seam allowance for collars/facings/necklines. No trimming back required because the SA is always so tiny, and it's so much easier to sew a collar to a curvy seam with a small seam allowance. Fixes a lot of the weird problems you can get in that area. However I wouldn't recommend tiny SAs for first fittings/alterable garments/fabrics that fray a lot.
@@infamoussphere7228 I had a little heart attack until I realized you mean SA as seam allowance. I was just thinking, my goodness, I wouldn't recommend tiny SAs for fittings either.
About patterns and liking puzzles, I have been working from patterns from a Parisian magazine (la Mode Illustrée) published from around 1860 to about 1929 (those are the patterns available - lots and lots of them). What makes them interesting, apart from being actual patterns for clothing I don't really know what the end product is really supposed to look like, is the fact that all of the pattern pieces are on two 'plates', i.e. print out on two large assemblies of A4 paper. So if you want to make an item, for instance a corset, then you have to find the pieces delineated among all the other 10 or so pieces of 10 or so items. It is like untangling a ball of string, and is so much fun. So, not being rich or having any real opportunity to wear any 1860's or 1880's or 1900's clothes, I reduced them to the size that would fit a doll about 40cm tall and then I had to make the dolls because I don't have any dolls. I made the dolls, the shifts, the corsets, the cache-corsets, the petticoats, the hoop, the dresses and the jackets. Way less material than if I had made them for me, hahahaah! I chose patterns printed in years my female ancestors were born in, so made the mother and the baby plus clothes..... and to think that all I had intended on doing was make a corset, when I set out, just to see how it would feel and how it is put together..... But, yeah, old patterns = puzzles. Oh and the instructions were very clear and easy to follow once you finally figured out what certain terms are. A lot of guess-work. Oh and also, I am not a sewist by any stretch of the imagination, but I do enjoy a good puzzle and sewing when I'm not painting. Oh and I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them.
@@m.maclellan7147 The reason I picked ancestors' birthdates as pattern choices was because I am writing a book using dates, names and events of my ancestors' lives, hahahahahaa! I may never finish writing the book simply because of the enormity of the task - all the research has taken about ten years - and then I have written some parts in french and some in english (it is all set in France, but the potential target readers (some family) don't speak french...) but I am really enjoying the writing. I smiled when I read your comment because of the mention of a book.
I really like that skirt. The sparkly buttons are a lovely choice. Might a thread tack in very fine thread hold the sides of the overskirt flipped back to show off the white but still allow movement in the fabric?
I always tell myself this while sewing, and it makes my life so much less stressful! Nobody sees the flaws, they're just impressed that I made a thing!
Your so fun to watch. I loved the skirt, actually I loved the whole look. The touch of red was 🥰 perfect. And the red shoe were gorgeous. Why is it that the gorgeous shoes are always the ones that hurt your feet 👠.
Thank you for the Delineator link! Skirt Save, Crepe was suitable for fancy day suit, With the skirt hitched up to day length, Make a corresponding Jacket, use your white contrast fold backs etc. seriously it will work well as your "Sunday Best" and walking suit for snooty cruise! :) ZenHugs!
This reminds me so much of my years doing sewing projects for 4-H and getting stressed and crying/fighting with my mom and/or grandma about ripping out seams days before judging 🤣😅 the skirt is gorgeous!
"We didn't MEAN to cosplay..." oh is that a vibe :) Looks great! I need to figure out something I like from the 19-teens to make with my 1914 sewing machine!
@almost 3 minutes in, I need to pause to say that while I don't feel immensely upset for you, because I acknowledge that you have created your own challenges & reactions to them, I parce that you're suffering. I believe in you Abby I believe you are a highly accomplished historian, and an excellent problem solver & pragmatic sewist. I wholeheartedly support you doing you. And, selfishly, am grateful for your insights and helpful tidbits of both successes & failures & the ways in which I can apply them, or your example of methodology/ philosophy to my own sewing glitches &/or hurdles
My grandmother taught me to stitch over pins. This woman was never wrong. 🤣 Also I have the same nails on right now, love these things!!! If you put on a coat of a nice topcoat, they will last a really long time. 💅🏼
Recently I was preparing to attend a ren fair, but I've gained a few pounds since I made my Tudor style kirdle, and it didn't fit any more. My wonderful boyfriend kept telling me to not stress over the costumes (not only did I need to make a new one for myself, but my kids also needed new ones, since children grow). I completely feel you on the "but this is me, and I can't not look good when I go to this event." Oh, and with regards to sewing over pins, people should understand that everyone's risk tolerance is different and just give you a break. As someone who worked in a sewing repair shop I have seen the damage that can be done to the system if needles hit said pins, (timing thrown off, occasionally broken gears if the machine isn't super great quality)so do always remove my pins (though occasionally one slips by). That being said, it's your machine, you are responsible for the maintenance of it, if you feel the hassle of removing the pins is worth the potential financial risk of the small possibility that more than your needle breaks if it hits one of the pins, then more power to you. Everyone has their own risk tolerance, as someone who cannot afford to replace my machine if it breaks, and has no insurance on it because it's a couple decades old, my tolerance will be much, much smaller than your own, so don't take anybody's crap about about the pins and the risks you find are tolerable. If I had a newer machine or could afford to get a new one, I wouldn't care as much about the pins either, especially since it would mean I could work much faster when doing pleated skirts.
Anyone else not getting a notification in RUclips for Abby's newest videos? I think this is the second time that I have not gotten a notification and I checked to make sure that my "bell" is on for all videos.
Your shirt is ready lovely! Don’t be so hard on yourself! Also thank you for the links and hard work you continue to do! I appreciate you bringing us along to your self induced hell scape!
it kind of blows my mind seeing these things happening so close to me that I am just 100% not in the loop for but is... also definitely up my alley lol.
I find I am most critical of what I make right after I finish it. I know all the places I messed up and had to rework things, all the little imperfections, and exactly how it didn’t match what was in my head at the beginning. If I put it away for a bit and then just wear it like any other piece, I forget and it’s much much better because I’m more removed from the struggle of construction. Ask is it better constructed and does it fit better than what I can buy? Bet the answer is almost always yes!
There is nothing worse as a maker poring your heart, soul, and finances into something that you slowly realise as you go through it "it's not working". As you say you have to come to terms with it, but it also shows that you have passion for what you do and that it hurts when it doesn't go well. I know sometimes I feel like I have some how betrayed the fabric, the pattern, or my own skills when this happens (it's silly I know but there you are). I hope you can be at peace with your skirt as it looks stunning! But you never know, there may just be that deal of the century that you find the right fabrics and you can make it again knowing what you now know. :)
In my younger days I have been on cruises (5). I've never been on a transatlantic cruise. And I've never been on Cunard line mainly because they are VERY formal compared to other lines. A word of advice; don't make an outfit that will is so long it will be a tripping hazard. There are many, many decks and stairs on cruise ships and they can be tricky to walk in modern shoes and clothing (also factor in the sway of the ship). And salt spray if it's windy, making the decks slippery. Be sure to bring some modern clothes and footwear just in case you hit bad weather and need to move around easily. I was on a cruise down the west coast to various Mexican ports. On the way back to LA, there was a mild storm, but out in the ocean, it produced 20' waves. People were sick everywhere. Ropes were strung up in the event rooms, dining rooms etc. to help people walk. No one in my group became sick or injured, but it was scary. I don't want to frighten you; I just want to make you aware, so you and the group are safe.
Watching you debate how to add the hooks to bustle your train was causing me anxiety. As someone who has put in many a bridal bustle, I was rooting for you and was proud of your decision.
Ya know what would be great, a video about bustling, cuz the only ones I find are wedding dresses and they don’t really explain the process very well. Plus they aren’t the most “fancy”.
OMG I am so happy to finally see someone else who sews over their pins! Seeing so many other people put their pins alongside where their stitches go has always made me feel like I'm doing something wrong. (also I tend to ignore instructions and only pay attention to how to lay the pieces on the fabric)
I love how the skirt turned out. I Would struggle to size up a pattern that small. I would have to size up by 1.5 - 2 times the waist and hips. My cutting table is not that big and I could see how much stretching you had to do to cut some of the pattern pieces out on huge (to me) cutting table. Excellent that Indiana Fashion week was size inclusive. Is anywhere else? Never seen it in the UK. The medieval lite comment made me giggle so much.
1910s popular music was heyday of ragtime music, and its dances 1 step, 2 step, animal dances like early foxtrot, turkey trot, grizzly bear walk, fish, kangaroo jump, waltz, etc.
Despite all the insanity of the process the skirt turned out lovely. You look amazing in it. Think of it this way, each mistake or problem is a learning experience and it makes the skirt unique to you. Perfection is overrated. Enjoy your trip in October.
A possible video series idea, although I doubt there is time at this point, might be an online (with a few thrift stores if time for local travel) search for the perfect accessories for any 1910-1919 era cruise. Art Deco jewelry (although I think that is more post 1920 early 1930s) is a private passion of mine, not for collecting just for looking at the actual items and going ooooo and ahhhh.
How delicious, you mentioned a meltdown. Why do I always think of chocolate? And I thought I was the only one who did that? Your skirt is lovely, don't alter it, make another!
You learned so much with this pattern and if you ever make it again, I can’t wait to see how you’d do it differently. What you did here was super educational and I applaud you for sharing with us all the guts and glory.
This skirt is very lovely. I think not using the sheer top layer makes it very original and flattering. Love your weekly podcasts. My favorite is your Memaw gown. Thanks
Every day is a good day to go for a piratey look! In fact, it pairs perfectly with a slow descent into madness! (As another person described it) I think the skirt looks great and would not be able to see any flaws without you pointing them out! Also, your stress may be of your own making, but we still support you through it! 🥰
Abby, those fabrics are absolutely delicious. I know they/re just black and white, but I L O V E shiny fabrics and as someone who can just about afford the occasional bit of poly satin from JoAnn, those fabrics are prettyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Abby you’re fabulous! I love just listening to you while you’re making things. Actuallly, I really enjoy all your videos 😅. I hope one day I can attend an event you’re speaking at.
Apropos of nothing, but I LOVE Harry's razors. Great quality and ships with a reminder so you can skip or add at your convenience. Thank you for your realistic look behind the curtain in your professional life!
I used to sew over pins too. After like 2 or 3 years of doing it I looked at the bottom side of the presser foot. The silvery plating was totally gone, it was all raw brass. Idk if it was normal wear and tear, or if the pins scratched the plating off way faster than it was supposed to happen🤔either way with my new machine and her presser foot I try to be more careful. no sewing over pins if possible.😀 I do know that I can buy a replacement presser foot, but I'd like to use the one I already have as long as possible.😏
I think the skirt is lovely! I understand the disappointment when a project has issues that bug you, though. A hell of one’s own making is still hell, nonetheless, so I’m definitely here for you (even though I’ve been quiet). Life has a way of interfering with things we do for fun, sometimes. Even if I don’t comment, I’m always sending good vibes and thoughts your way. Love, light, and blessings to you, always.
The Closet Historian always says something to the effect of “if you can see my little mistakes you are standing way too close to me” and I love her for it! It looks beautiful from where I’m standing, Abby! 😉
Me, when I make a small boo boo I don't want to fix. Lol
Skirt is lovely and it's kind of you to share your slow descent into madness with us for our education and entertainment.
I feel like the "slow descent into madness" is every sewing video on here, ever. 🤣🤣
It’s no longer a slow decent with all the going on into the chaos we have it’s more just a swimming in the sea of chaos
I mean, is it really sewing if a person doesn’t cry and/or have to completely unpick something at least once?
@@AbbyCox It's like that hypothetical infinite hotel where all the rooms are occupied but one is always open; you're always digging deeper into madness despite already being at the bottom.
@@kalieris nope. That would be daydreaming. All sewing jnvolves crying.
Quote of the Day: “You all who act like you don’t do it are liars and your pants, they are on fire. I can smell the sulphur from over here.”
(I love this quote)
Shout out to @TheClosetHistorian 😆
@@tambriggs LOL Yes!! 😂
I loved it when Abby said that!! And after the sulfur part, I was laughing myself silly! 😂🤣
@@tambriggs I love how she has basically gotten to the point where she is like, 'Yes I sew over my pins. Don't like it? Don't watch or get over it.' Sadly she seems like she is to nice to actually say that. Although it is funny to see her try to find the best way to say it with out actually saying it. 😄 🤣🤣🤣
@@ChrisSeaB Sheesh! I was ~taught~ to sew over the pins by BOTH of my grandmothers, both of whom had been sewing since they were little girls. 😹
Never forget: I bet you at least some of the folks working off the pattern, or even just the fashion plate they'd seen in the catalogue (with a sense of, 'f it, I can do that!') back in the 1910s, will have had the same meltdown over messed-up facings, swagging, placket shenanigans, etc.
Fashions change, but sewing kerfuffle is eternal 💜 Thank you for sharing it (it turned out amazing!)
As someone who used to live in rural northern Indiana, the idea of Indiana Fashion Week is hilarious, because I keep on imagining a fashion show where all of the looks involve old flannel shirts and John Deere caps.
Really. How did we produce Bill Blass? And, if you trek up to the Fort to catch the Blass show at the art museum...let us know so we can fan girl, Abby!
Mood from rual Southwestern Michigan 😂
@kristen paff I live in rural northeast KY. That is how we dress here. Go out in some of the fashion week outfits and u r gonna b the talk of the town. Talk about sticking out like a sore thumb. Now go to bigger cities in the state and that still goes. The only time I can think of that “high fashion” is Derby Day. PERIOD 🤣🤣🧢👩🏻🌾🧑🏼🌾👍🏼❤️
Girl, I’ve been sewing over pins for 49 years now and I will never apologize for it. 👏🏼
Let me join your pin rebellion. All about sewing over pins over here.
The whole point of silk pins and wearing oversized cat eye glasses is so I can live dangerously and sew over pins. 😂
@@mialemon6186
🙌 Absolutely - Create your own adventure!
There is another RUclipsr that I watch (Laura Kampf) who makes things (to put it mildly). She has a great quote that I have adopted: Every Defect Gets Respect. Your skirt does not look cheap. The mistake that you think is glaring, isn't to the average Joanne. You worked hard on this beautiful and clever bespoke dress. Give that defect respect and let yourself appreciate your work and enjoy wearing it. You look amazing in it.
Regarding sewing without modern instructions: I would still consider myself very much a beginner, but I decided to jump in and give it a try. I took a tip from Evelyn Wood (love her channel!) and sat down with the pattern pieces and the limited instructions I had, and wrote out a more detailed plan before I got started, just to spare me some mid-project anxiety. Did I miss a couple things? Yeah. But I still figured them out. You’re right, Abby; it can be pretty intuitive.
Evelyn gives awesome tips.
Yep, Evelyn is amazing in that regard, you can pretty much learn all you need to know about sewing through her channel. For the advanced haute couture and historical stuff you can then just move on to Bernadette Banner, especially her videos with Barbara, a professional designer, corset maker and seamstress, are SO educating.
It is. I started using Burda patterns from the magazine back in the 60s. The only magazine out there was in German. Trace the pattern pieces from the labyrinth of multi coloured lines and use a dictionary to figure out how they go together. Once you have fumbled your way through one it gets easier, unless it requires tailoring, then all bets are off.
Good 4u!
Me: She's sewing over pins!
Abby: I know you all do it.
Me: Dammit
Yes. Yes we do.
*"Your pants are on fire I can smell the sulfur from over here."*
I don't know why but this made me laugh *SO* much I started to choke. 🤣
I hope this doesn't sound mean, but I am really heartened to see you make construction and fabric mistakes. I don't 'cosplay' but I have started to make my own clothes again, after decades of not bothering, and I have to dig myself out of so many construction holes... Now that I know even people as experienced as you can do that I don't feel so bad about my own efforts. Thanks for being so transparent.
Just left this recommendation on Nicole Rudolph’s channel, the book, “Our Hearts were Young and Gay,” by Cornelia Otis Skinner and Emily Kimbrough-two young ladies making a cross Atlantic voyage, by themselves, to France. They made the trip in the 20s, I believe. The book is soooo funny, and might help you set the mood for your trip. I inherited it from my Great Aunt Minnie, born in 1889, who actually made a few of those trans-Atlantic trips herself.
Totally ditto this recommendation! I still remember their mode of transporting money 💰
I have to find that! I have read other things by Skinner, and she's delightful.
@@maryeckel9682 It’s fairly easy to find, and totally worth it to read!
I think the sequel is even better. (In spite of the fact that I can’t remember the title, and it’s not shelved with Our Hearts. So many books, so little organization!)
Love that book! I think a movie was made from it, too.
😁 One of the greatest gifts of historical dress is never having to deal with hair removal because none of it's ever going to be visible anyway. But I'm glad you're having fun, Abby! Love that blouse by the way!
I hate when I mess up facings. 50 years of sewing and I still do it. Never despair! Just go read a book and unpick it later.
Re: stitching over pins... depends on the needle! Have just started using size 70 Microtex needles for fine woven rayon, and TRY and take my pins out as I go... but with a heavier needle, yes, absolutely! My mum specifically taught me to pin perpendicular instead of parallel so I *could* sew over pins!
Same with my first sewing teacher (a retired professional wardrobe and costume worker). She told me that pinning perpendicular to the seam line caused less distortion of the fabric - I've never tried to collect statistics on this but it seems right - and made it easier to remove them as they approached the needle. Oh yes, and to sew over them if necessary, "but don't tell anyone I said that".
@@agcons nice. I tend to use glass-headed pins, makes it easier to grab them before you sew over them.
My mum's aunt was a professional dressmaker, so she passed on lots of useful things :-) (I never knew the aunt, but she taught my mum to sew).
I think it depends on the machine a little, too. When I got my grandma’s machine (circa late 40s model-straight stitch, no zigzag), my mom said, “you know how on your regular machine if you sew over pins and your needle hits the pin it’s usually okay because the needle usually just kinda slides past it somehow? That won’t happen with this machine-if the needle hits the pin it’ll break the needle.” I tested that-you know, for science-and, yeah, if the needle hits the pin, it’s Not Good. So I use clips instead of pins whenever I can. You absolutely can’t sew over those but you can put them within the seam allowance and sew past them hi h is almost as good.
Just be careful - on some almost-vintage models, even if they don't break needles over pins, stitching over those can cause a bit of a tension issue. Depends on the fabric and the exact settings
In Chanel atelier they stitch right over pins, so you are in a very good company 😉
Abby, thank you so much for mentioning us here at StitchWorks Indy!!! It was so lovely meeting and talking with you. Glad you had a good time at Indiana Fashion Week!
I may have to get this pattern and try my hand at it!
So, totally inspired by both you and Nicole doing capsule wardrobes for your cruise, I am going to be making my own 1890s to 1900s capsule wardrobe for a trip to Paris in December. This may be pure crazy but I am giving myself time to do it. I will be satisfied with wearable garments 🤭 but it is ages since I actually drafted a pattern rather than following a commercial one. This may lead to my own decent into madness, but at least I will look fabulous when I get there. Thanks for the inspiration, Abby
Re: Stitching over pins... I honestly don't anymore. One time I was sewing over pins and hit one perfectly which bent the pin severely rather than breaking the needle. It was scary for a newbie, so I have been scarred for life.
I love the trained skirt and look forward to seeing all the looks you can make with it. 😍
I once hit a pin and now the needle of my sewing machine is bent and sews like 1 mm to the right of where it's supposed to be. Very annoying when you want to make detailed things. 0/10, would not recommend.
Funny because when I run over a pin and break my needle i just swear and find the pack of new needles lmaoo (i did, to be fair, learn on an industrial machine where that was just about the worst that might happen lol)
@@nicholewarren4229 mine bent and got stuck requiring plyers and much swearing 🤬 it was a rather old machine.
I broke a needle and the tip dropped down into the bobbin area of my vintage machine. At the time we lived out in the middle of nowhere. I decided that was a type of hell I could avoid -easily!
She said “To ##### news that interviewed me, I’m sorry that I said corn beans and soy! I, I.. had a hard time heari- 🤣😭”
😅😂🤣😭 I’m dead asf 💀 That’s some shit I do *regularly* especially when I’m nervous and tryna be serious, I just fly right past what they ask me and then truly think/consider abt the question I was asked while I’m giving my answer in an attempt to stay on my toes, but it bites me in the ass every time 🤣 it’s humiliating so I totally get it!
But honestly, knowing how to laugh it off when it happens (exactly like you did 👏🏼) really warms ppl up to you and your personality overall and it actually helps you to relax more after that as well.
Basically what I’m saying is that it’s happened to me so often at this point that I’ve now learned how to turn the embarrassing moments into a “thinking-on-the-fly funny ice breaker” if you will 😅🤷🏼♀️ so I loved yours! 👏🏼 the best part was you cracking up abt it 😂
The skirt is absolutely gorgeous, take it easy Abby, every single one of the designs you are making are turning out wonderfully!
1:59 Versatility in outfits. We love that. 👏🏽
Love to hear you admit to stitching over pins. When I took Home Ec back in the dark ages, we were REQUIRED to stitch over pins as a time maximizing technique. One of many techniques that are decried in current videos.
There are so many different ways to approach sewing! I learned professional/industrial sewing at trade school and one of the things they taught us was just...pin as little as possible. You barely pin a straight seam because it wastes time - and if there are no pins you don't even get the conundrum of sewing over pins. I do pin my seams but mostly just the difficult/weird curvy seams or ones where there are multiple layers. And I absolutely sew over pins. The other great trade school tip is to use a 1 cm seam allowance, and a 6 mm seam allowance for collars/facings/necklines. No trimming back required because the SA is always so tiny, and it's so much easier to sew a collar to a curvy seam with a small seam allowance. Fixes a lot of the weird problems you can get in that area. However I wouldn't recommend tiny SAs for first fittings/alterable garments/fabrics that fray a lot.
@@infamoussphere7228 I had a little heart attack until I realized you mean SA as seam allowance. I was just thinking, my goodness, I wouldn't recommend tiny SAs for fittings either.
@@leonardo.diCATio Sturmabteilung? Or South Australia?
About patterns and liking puzzles, I have been working from patterns from a Parisian magazine (la Mode Illustrée) published from around 1860 to about 1929 (those are the patterns available - lots and lots of them). What makes them interesting, apart from being actual patterns for clothing I don't really know what the end product is really supposed to look like, is the fact that all of the pattern pieces are on two 'plates', i.e. print out on two large assemblies of A4 paper. So if you want to make an item, for instance a corset, then you have to find the pieces delineated among all the other 10 or so pieces of 10 or so items. It is like untangling a ball of string, and is so much fun. So, not being rich or having any real opportunity to wear any 1860's or 1880's or 1900's clothes, I reduced them to the size that would fit a doll about 40cm tall and then I had to make the dolls because I don't have any dolls. I made the dolls, the shifts, the corsets, the cache-corsets, the petticoats, the hoop, the dresses and the jackets. Way less material than if I had made them for me, hahahaah! I chose patterns printed in years my female ancestors were born in, so made the mother and the baby plus clothes..... and to think that all I had intended on doing was make a corset, when I set out, just to see how it would feel and how it is put together..... But, yeah, old patterns = puzzles. Oh and the instructions were very clear and easy to follow once you finally figured out what certain terms are. A lot of guess-work. Oh and also, I am not a sewist by any stretch of the imagination, but I do enjoy a good puzzle and sewing when I'm not painting. Oh and I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them.
This would be a great "backstory" for a book !
@@m.maclellan7147 The reason I picked ancestors' birthdates as pattern choices was because I am writing a book using dates, names and events of my ancestors' lives, hahahahahaa! I may never finish writing the book simply because of the enormity of the task - all the research has taken about ten years - and then I have written some parts in french and some in english (it is all set in France, but the potential target readers (some family) don't speak french...) but I am really enjoying the writing. I smiled when I read your comment because of the mention of a book.
@@annerigby4400 BEST of luck ! What a wonderful thing ! ❤️
I am loving all these 19teens sewing videos. I love this decade of fashion and wear them daily, it is lovely seeing others enjoying it too.
The pirate going on a cruise is such a vibe ! I freaking love the look!
The outfit turned out so cute! The choker, the heels, everything is beautiful. Nice merge of vintage and modern.
I really like that skirt. The sparkly buttons are a lovely choice.
Might a thread tack in very fine thread hold the sides of the overskirt flipped back to show off the white but still allow movement in the fabric?
The medievalish look was fabulous as well!!
My granny and mom never mentioned taking out pins so I don’t, but I do sew over them slowly though.
Your skirt looks amazing. Honestly no one will notice any little “mistakes” unless you tell them. It’s beautiful!
I always tell myself this while sewing, and it makes my life so much less stressful! Nobody sees the flaws, they're just impressed that I made a thing!
Hang in there! Enjoy your cruise! Find your balance in the chaos! Cuddle your puppers
one of the few actual pieces of real fashion that has appeared at any fashion show in recent years
Your so fun to watch. I loved the skirt, actually I loved the whole look. The touch of red was 🥰 perfect. And the red shoe were gorgeous. Why is it that the gorgeous shoes are always the ones that hurt your feet 👠.
Thank you for the Delineator link! Skirt Save, Crepe was suitable for fancy day suit, With the skirt hitched up to day length, Make a corresponding Jacket, use your white contrast fold backs etc. seriously it will work well as your "Sunday Best" and walking suit for snooty cruise! :) ZenHugs!
This reminds me so much of my years doing sewing projects for 4-H and getting stressed and crying/fighting with my mom and/or grandma about ripping out seams days before judging 🤣😅 the skirt is gorgeous!
I just moved to Bloomington for master's. Excited that Indiana has a fashion week. I'll have to check it out next year!
Oh goodness, I feel so seen, from the someone-stepped-on-my-bustle to the work outfits to "Byewbays photo-bomb!"
"We didn't MEAN to cosplay..." oh is that a vibe :) Looks great! I need to figure out something I like from the 19-teens to make with my 1914 sewing machine!
Omg, we have all been there with the "need to finish this thing that is making me crazy"....your skirt turned out gorgeous!
@almost 3 minutes in, I need to pause to say that while I don't feel immensely upset for you, because I acknowledge that you have created your own challenges & reactions to them, I parce that you're suffering.
I believe in you Abby
I believe you are a highly accomplished historian, and an excellent problem solver & pragmatic sewist.
I wholeheartedly support you doing you. And, selfishly, am grateful for your insights and helpful tidbits of both successes & failures & the ways in which I can apply them, or your example of methodology/ philosophy to my own sewing glitches &/or hurdles
My grandmother taught me to stitch over pins. This woman was never wrong. 🤣
Also I have the same nails on right now, love these things!!! If you put on a coat of a nice topcoat, they will last a really long time. 💅🏼
I’ve been looking forward to your new “Hellscape of your making” video and it’s even better that you released the video earlier than usual.
Recently I was preparing to attend a ren fair, but I've gained a few pounds since I made my Tudor style kirdle, and it didn't fit any more. My wonderful boyfriend kept telling me to not stress over the costumes (not only did I need to make a new one for myself, but my kids also needed new ones, since children grow). I completely feel you on the "but this is me, and I can't not look good when I go to this event."
Oh, and with regards to sewing over pins, people should understand that everyone's risk tolerance is different and just give you a break. As someone who worked in a sewing repair shop I have seen the damage that can be done to the system if needles hit said pins, (timing thrown off, occasionally broken gears if the machine isn't super great quality)so do always remove my pins (though occasionally one slips by). That being said, it's your machine, you are responsible for the maintenance of it, if you feel the hassle of removing the pins is worth the potential financial risk of the small possibility that more than your needle breaks if it hits one of the pins, then more power to you. Everyone has their own risk tolerance, as someone who cannot afford to replace my machine if it breaks, and has no insurance on it because it's a couple decades old, my tolerance will be much, much smaller than your own, so don't take anybody's crap about about the pins and the risks you find are tolerable. If I had a newer machine or could afford to get a new one, I wouldn't care as much about the pins either, especially since it would mean I could work much faster when doing pleated skirts.
Congrats Abby. In spite of the challenges, you did an amazing job. This highlights how talented you really are.
Anyone else not getting a notification in RUclips for Abby's newest videos? I think this is the second time that I have not gotten a notification and I checked to make sure that my "bell" is on for all videos.
Your shirt is ready lovely! Don’t be so hard on yourself! Also thank you for the links and hard work you continue to do! I appreciate you bringing us along to your self induced hell scape!
it kind of blows my mind seeing these things happening so close to me that I am just 100% not in the loop for but is... also definitely up my alley lol.
I find I am most critical of what I make right after I finish it. I know all the places I messed up and had to rework things, all the little imperfections, and exactly how it didn’t match what was in my head at the beginning. If I put it away for a bit and then just wear it like any other piece, I forget and it’s much much better because I’m more removed from the struggle of construction. Ask is it better constructed and does it fit better than what I can buy? Bet the answer is almost always yes!
And yes, I sew over pins. Especially those long straight seams where you just let’er rip!
Why does autocorrect always change “sew” to “see”? 🤣
Lovely skirt and fabulous red shoes!
Lovely! I agree. I wish I could show a picture of my great great grandmothers wedding dress underskirt. We have it pinned to a dress form.
Aha!! Abby just approved of stitching over pins. Yessssss. 😈
There is nothing worse as a maker poring your heart, soul, and finances into something that you slowly realise as you go through it "it's not working". As you say you have to come to terms with it, but it also shows that you have passion for what you do and that it hurts when it doesn't go well. I know sometimes I feel like I have some how betrayed the fabric, the pattern, or my own skills when this happens (it's silly I know but there you are). I hope you can be at peace with your skirt as it looks stunning! But you never know, there may just be that deal of the century that you find the right fabrics and you can make it again knowing what you now know. :)
Great skirt, I love the “bustle” train.
It turned out beautifully!
The foundations you wore under the skirt looks stunning as an outfit alone 😍
I am so glad to see that even experienced sewists occasionally have fabric/pattern combination fails just like the rest of us!
Abby’s red shoes are like the red version of Carries wedding Manolos!
Enjoy the Dandy cruise it seems wonderfully apt
In my younger days I have been on cruises (5). I've never been on a transatlantic cruise. And I've never been on Cunard line mainly because they are VERY formal compared to other lines. A word of advice; don't make an outfit that will is so long it will be a tripping hazard. There are many, many decks and stairs on cruise ships and they can be tricky to walk in modern shoes and clothing (also factor in the sway of the ship). And salt spray if it's windy, making the decks slippery. Be sure to bring some modern clothes and footwear just in case you hit bad weather and need to move around easily. I was on a cruise down the west coast to various Mexican ports. On the way back to LA, there was a mild storm, but out in the ocean, it produced 20' waves. People were sick everywhere. Ropes were strung up in the event rooms, dining rooms etc. to help people walk. No one in my group became sick or injured, but it was scary. I don't want to frighten you; I just want to make you aware, so you and the group are safe.
You looked incredible at Fashion Week and those painful heels are amazeballs!
Watching you debate how to add the hooks to bustle your train was causing me anxiety. As someone who has put in many a bridal bustle, I was rooting for you and was proud of your decision.
I’m excited to see the cruise adventures! Nicole and you will be absolutely fabulous. 👏🏽
Sending you hugs & love. I wait daily till I see your show.
Love ya repping Saf’s merch too!! That skirt is awesome
I think it looks lovely as is. I would also love to see it with a sheer overskirt and a patterned underskirt
Ya know what would be great, a video about bustling, cuz the only ones I find are wedding dresses and they don’t really explain the process very well. Plus they aren’t the most “fancy”.
You looked flawless
Abby! Tassels! Tassels cover up wonky corners and as a distraction from loose button loops and theyare just fun!
OMG I am so happy to finally see someone else who sews over their pins! Seeing so many other people put their pins alongside where their stitches go has always made me feel like I'm doing something wrong. (also I tend to ignore instructions and only pay attention to how to lay the pieces on the fabric)
I love how the skirt turned out. I Would struggle to size up a pattern that small. I would have to size up by 1.5 - 2 times the waist and hips. My cutting table is not that big and I could see how much stretching you had to do to cut some of the pattern pieces out on huge (to me) cutting table.
Excellent that Indiana Fashion week was size inclusive. Is anywhere else? Never seen it in the UK.
The medieval lite comment made me giggle so much.
1910s popular music was heyday of
ragtime music, and its dances 1 step,
2 step, animal dances like early foxtrot,
turkey trot, grizzly bear walk, fish, kangaroo jump, waltz, etc.
Despite all the insanity of the process the skirt turned out lovely. You look amazing in it. Think of it this way, each mistake or problem is a learning experience and it makes the skirt unique to you. Perfection is overrated. Enjoy your trip in October.
That 90s prom looked sooo great and hotttt! Show those fabulous arms! 🔥
Abby telling us not to @ her in the comments and I’m just happy that I’m not the only one who does it😅
A possible video series idea, although I doubt there is time at this point, might be an online (with a few thrift stores if time for local travel) search for the perfect accessories for any 1910-1919 era cruise. Art Deco jewelry (although I think that is more post 1920 early 1930s) is a private passion of mine, not for collecting just for looking at the actual items and going ooooo and ahhhh.
How delicious, you mentioned a meltdown. Why do I always think of chocolate? And I thought I was the only one who did that? Your skirt is lovely, don't alter it, make another!
You learned so much with this pattern and if you ever make it again, I can’t wait to see how you’d do it differently. What you did here was super educational and I applaud you for sharing with us all the guts and glory.
The hair length you have in this video is PERFECTLY Flattering ! Makes your neck look long and compliments your face shape !
Love you and your work. I could only dream of summoning the energy to make a dress
This skirt is very lovely. I think not using the sheer top layer makes it very original and flattering. Love your weekly podcasts. My favorite is your Memaw gown. Thanks
Every day is a good day to go for a piratey look! In fact, it pairs perfectly with a slow descent into madness! (As another person described it) I think the skirt looks great and would not be able to see any flaws without you pointing them out!
Also, your stress may be of your own making, but we still support you through it! 🥰
You looked STUNNING AAAAAA. ❤❤ thank you for sharing the chaos
I don't need to see or know a thing about what happens on that trip. Watching you and Nichole prepare has been plenty of fun for me!
Oh yessssss. I would be doing the devious thinking too.
Corn beans = new name for followers/fans of this channel 🤔🤷🏻♀
Iv always wanted to go on a cruise like that!!!
Abby, those fabrics are absolutely delicious. I know they/re just black and white, but I L O V E shiny fabrics and as someone who can just about afford the occasional bit of poly satin from JoAnn, those fabrics are prettyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Cornbeans! (Thanks Abby
thanks for being so vulnerable and share your learnings with us
I think it looks lovely!
I squealed with joy when I saw a new sewing video posted! Loved it!
That skirt is so lovely!
Abby you’re fabulous! I love just listening to you while you’re making things. Actuallly, I really enjoy all your videos 😅. I hope one day I can attend an event you’re speaking at.
Apropos of nothing, but I LOVE Harry's razors. Great quality and ships with a reminder so you can skip or add at your convenience.
Thank you for your realistic look behind the curtain in your professional life!
You both looked awesome imo. I do have say I loved the hot pink outfits!
Just started this video and can I just comment on how amazing and glowy and gorgeous you look!!
I used to sew over pins too. After like 2 or 3 years of doing it I looked at the bottom side of the presser foot. The silvery plating was totally gone, it was all raw brass. Idk if it was normal wear and tear, or if the pins scratched the plating off way faster than it was supposed to happen🤔either way with my new machine and her presser foot I try to be more careful. no sewing over pins if possible.😀
I do know that I can buy a replacement presser foot, but I'd like to use the one I already have as long as possible.😏
I think the skirt is lovely! I understand the disappointment when a project has issues that bug you, though.
A hell of one’s own making is still hell, nonetheless, so I’m definitely here for you (even though I’ve been quiet). Life has a way of interfering with things we do for fun, sometimes. Even if I don’t comment, I’m always sending good vibes and thoughts your way. Love, light, and blessings to you, always.
"Pancake and steak house? Where are we?...."
LOL you are in Speedway 😂 I wish that place was still open!