Gas popping the fan blade might be from some kind of thermal contraction/expansion. If the blades were warm and the gas was spilled on them, the evaporating gasoline would have caused those blades to cool down rapidly. This may have caused enough stress internally to the plastic fan blades to cause them to break/pop off.
Considering they're most likely nylon, I doubt the gas itself has anything to do with it, rather just like you said thermal shock. Computer fan blades have rather strict tolerances for expansion, considering the cost, since it affects performance. That means a stiff material used
Not only that, but I also bet the fan blades were already quite fatigued from the high temperatures in the engine bay, these fans are only meant for computers after all.
theres also the fact the stream of gas would of slammed the blade into in the rad, compounding any defects wether they be a moulding issue, installed wrong and rubbing, or ate some gravel whilst driving
The top of the fan blades are also matte which gives more surface area for the fuel to evaporate off, and gasoline has very high calorific values Btu/gal (when it evaporates like butane it gets much colder) which made it act like a freezer. plastics do not like rapid thermal expansion/contraction and POP!
I had lucky charms, and I'd concur. Between the molding, the possibility of a prior internal fracture, and pouring the fuel onto a warm blade (assuming they were sitting in the sun).
I look forward to Sundays to watch your whimsically serious videos. It's fun watching someone fool around seriously and enjoying themselves and I sponge off your fun. looking forward to next week and I'm still on the record for 84 MPH with the v-twin BIG BLOCK!
The fan blade may have already been stressed in some way or maybe even partially fractured and the corrosive addition of the gasoline may have been enough to finish it off. Also I'm a 19 year old from Michigan and am modifying a chevy trailblazer with a stock 4200 vortec with parts from a gmc envoy. My plan is to find out just how much power you can safely get out of an inline 6 with a stock transmission. Also the gmc will likely be used in a demolition derby in the near future. Let me know if you want to meet up and work on a project.
12:35 The 2Cv had a very long life. It started in the 1950's and the last were produced in 1990. The engine has been upgraded several times and in the 1970's the "biggest" one was a 602cm3 and could do 110 to 120km/h (depending of the wind...)
Grampa in its youth had a 3cv, always told me wind was key, front wind: cruise at 80 max, nice tailwind: you could elongate 4th gear and the speedo woult tell 120 and lets assume it was 100 real !
the plastic blades, when they moulded them at the factory have a high stress area in the corner. this is caused by the plastic cooling fast on the outside and slow in the middle. the middle shrinks causing the high stress area. if you get some clear plastic cutlery or look at a set of plastic headlights with a pair of polarized lenses sunglasses, you can see the stress areas in the plastic. acrylic plastics are very susceptible to solvents, where if there is a high enough stress moulded into the plastic the plastic will break down a little from the solvent and the internal stress causes the plastic to crack and split. very similar to safety glass or "tempered" glass
@@fnorgen yeah, i had same thing while removing the jewel from an OG Xbox console to repaint it and change it's color. i put some solvent to loosen up the glue residue on the backside before i sanded off the paint... and it literally broke into pieces
SO, there is a really interesting thing that happens when you get ethanol on acrylic. It hydro cracks. If you have seen all of the spit barriers in the stores cracked its because someone cleaned them with the ethanol containing sanitizer. I don't know if this is what happened with the fan blades, but it a possibility. As for the test, ethanol evaporates pretty quickly so if the test sample had been out of the canister for a while maybe the ethanol was evaporated off enough.
It’s called crazing and Ethanols and alcohols will do that to Acrylic. The material used for the fan blades is typically a nylon either 6 or 66 depending on the temperature exposure. My guess is there was some molded in stress and the stress was relieved from the thermal shock of the gasoline hitting it.
@@TheOriginalLugnuts that would also make sense. I am not sure what the mold for the fans looks like but there might be a "weld line" where the blades meet the hub.
I’m wondering if you take out the transmission and make a solid axle with a differential somehow and just used to commet clutch as a torque converter it’ll get rid of a lot of weight and you’ll have more room
re: fan blades breaking on exposure to gasoline, my guess is either (1) the blades were glued together w/ gas soluble glue for w/ever reason, or (2) a tiny crack had developed in the plastic & filled itself in w/ brake dust/pollen/oil/grime/etc., & that material absorbs gas & swells, breaking the plastic on contact
No Capt crunch, I had some "Love Crunch" this morning, which is kinda the sidekick of Capt'n Crunch, and she's telling me, that most likely the blades have been hit by a small pebble, or a bug during operation. The 2CV started out with a 9hp 375cc parallel twin engine, but ended up on their last models with a 29HP 600cc engine. That engine was able to do 65mph.
We use to drill out the steel weights inside the sliders to get the desired weight reduction. I would recommend you do the same. For as far as the fan blades, some injection molded parts, especially thin and long parts like fan blades, can have high internal stresses due to cooling too quickly and shrinkage. If it's a stiff polymer and it's hot (probably was) then dumping gas on it which extracts heat very quickly to evaporate, you could cause the part to fail. It's just my best guess.
Have you provided additional crank case ventilation? May want configur a system off the oil fill. A large inline fuel would work. Pluse kinda act like a catch can.
I've enjoyed your shows so much since episode 1 and have also learned a lot along the way. I actually get excited to eat because that's when I usually get an episode or two in. Fantastic work by the whole crew. P.S. You should setup a Patreon. I would happily subscribe for monthly contributions to help fund the show. I'm sure there are many others that would participate as well. If you do create a Patreon, please let everyone know in your new videos and description because I want to see a 212cc stupid charged idiot cooled Lamborghini 😁
Take the gearbox out of the occasion; a fixed custom made single gearset replicating your current 4th gear ratio will reduce driveline losses and most likely improve 1 to 2 seconds on your 0-60 (my 2 cents). Keep us posted on your ventures; loving the series!
4th in a 5 speed is often 1:1 but can vary a little, either slightly over driven or slightly under driven. A fixed ratio between 3rd and 4th, but closer to 4th may prove better. Dual cvt setup could be an exercise in crazy futility, or something amazing!
Also If you could use an spark plug with resistance they have an R letter after numbers on the NGK's, that helps with interference on the EFI management
Second this, had a yamaha that has tci ignition and for electronoise reduction manual recommended the ngk c"R"7hsa, and the aftermarket one i ended getting in town was the regular c7hsa. Bike ran fine but may messed with the aftermarket immobilizator module making it think i was not there and triggering the alarm, fun discovery :D
If only they made a 3 speed ....amazing work yall , I love this project and how you show some basics on clutch tuning. This is usually "Greek" to me so I'm glad to see it in video form cause with the visual, it's easier to understand.
That easter egg has got to be a Saturn. I bet you scooped up an old 2000's Saturn SC. I had one, and it was made of tupperware and ran on love. Best $500 I ever spent.
Nice! I had a 99 SL1 and an 01 SC1. I always wanted one of the SW wagons and an Ion Redline. The motors could take some abuse, but those transmissions were made of tissue paper!
the fan blade thing is most likely a combination of thermal contraction/expansion and just purely bad plastic, maybe there was a hairline crack, maybe not, could have also just popped from some weight dropping onto them, liquids weigh a lot would recommend getting something like noctuas industrial fans, robust blades and great perfomance
I'd assume the heat cycles underneath the hood are very hard on the fan plastic because it's meant to be in a computer case that would generally not exceed like 65-75C max. I hope the water pumps don't have the same plastic for their internals!
I wonder if you do a larger diameter exhaust off the engine ( header) if it will help the engine at all, I know the correct tuned about of back pressure is important when making power and making the engine more efficient. It's gotta push the exhaust a long way, and through a long muffler does that effect the back pressure? Would a more open shorter glass pack muffler help? With the super charger bringing in more air I think if you port and polish the head with a larger exhaust you could produce the same power level at a lower boost level? Saving head gaskets? These are questions I've had watching your videos and very interested in what you think!
The car performing better in the heat probably comes down to drivetrain losses; Grease in CVs and wheelbearings is thick, gear lube in the manual trans ( diff) is thin, but thinner when warm all reducing parasitic losses. Warmer temps also generally means suspension components settle better because all of the bushing, rod ends etc move more freely, having everything settled and neutral is very important for low rolling resistance. Speaking of low rolling resistance, heat will increase tyre pressure reducing rolling resistance, so thats a plus.
hey jimbo, speaking of fan blades, remove the fan from the flywheel and put an electric fan on the he head, something like a delta tfc1212de. pretty much all of those fixed mounted mechanical fans are super inefficient compared to modern fans, i wouldn't be surprised if it was using up a whole(!) horsepower.
Hes gone over this in previous episodes, these engines dont have a thrust bearing like a car so the tension from a clutch would destroy the engine rather quickly, these engines bearings are made for side loads instead, so to run a clutch would require him to either use his engine to run a secondary flywheel that is just powered by the engine via belt or chain or he needs a whole different type of engine
If the HG pops again, try to find a multi layer steel gasket. Those can hold up to some serious boost. Or just make your own HG out of annealed copper sheet. Good call on that exhaust leak. Every time an exhaust pulse passes the leak it creates a low pressure gaspocket behind it which in turn allowes ambient air to be drawn through the leak into the exhaust which in turn will be pushed past the O2 sensor scewing the reading. The sensor will detect more O2 and the ECU will start dumping more fuel in, more then is really needed.
I’ll go with thermal shock for the broken fan blades. As a datum, my Porsche will do 0-60 in 4.8 seconds and my MG wont do it at all without a very steep hill. Love your work Jimbo 👍
Fan blades may have already been damaged and had small cracks. When the fuel hit the shock just finished an already started failure. Could be that the fuel caused the area in an already damaged crack swell ever so slightly that it just caused it to pop.
1:44 - slipping due to light pucks is not the root cause, but an effect of increasing horse power at given rpm. The spring is the one that drives the tension, the pucks adjust the rpm the CVT shifts at in combination with the spring. But for tuning, you normally increase the spring first to get higher torque transfer without slipping (which also increase the rpm), then adjust the pucks to make it shift at the optimal rpm (peak hp) 🤓
As a non united states habitant, and may i speak for the rest of the world, THANKS for the metric conversions on the edit, yall northamericans have me converting everything in another tab or on the phone to make some sense to view! Regarding cvt slipping and temperatures: i have seen paints at racetracks in pits that dissapear or change color within X temperature is reached, this is applied to disc brakes to monitor cooling, top temp, and whatnot. Im not sure how this paint is called but you paint stripes direct in the edge of the disk or in this case clutch! Also you mentioning removing the gearbox, what about a direct coupling to the honda gearbox, but with a centrifugal clutch, and a one way bearing or sprocket like the ones on the rear of bycicles. The combination of these two may make the gearbox more usable without the need of an axial clutch, just let go the gas, wait for rpm to drop a bit and next gear shoud enter..¿easier? and not waste any precious kg/m on slipping and heating a belt!
I ran into the same problems with engines won't stop leaking oil and gaskets keep failing I learned to use Liquid copper it helps on selling an engine up you can actually glue a motor back together with that stuff
I remember a long time ago we talked about the injector :) I was packing some garage stuff to move recently and found perfect injectors for this, thought about your car immediately when I saw them! Problem is that I live in Sweden and you probably got injetors by now :)
It's surprising the supercharger doesn't improve anything at low speed. It's not as if the tires were loosing traction... Do you have a way to monitor the CVT slip? Could this be the issue under 30 mph?
Your videos are awesome. Always have me cracking up over here. I love the bit about the cereal. Perfect amount of comedy injection for your unique style of video. It's been a blast to watch this channel mature into one of my favorites. We love you guys! Y'all do amazing work!
Love this video! Especially mentioning my 2 favorite cars, the Fiat 500 and 2CV. In reference to the Citroen 2CV: the final model of the 2CV could go "115 km/h (71 mph) in 1981" with its flat twin 602cc motor. Actually, the whole little car was amazing and technologically ahead of its time. If you get the chance, read the Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citroën_2CV
Make sure the engine's crankcase is properly vented or the crankcase could be under pressure while making boost and for the fan blade it may have been super glued back on from the maker so when the gas hit it it broke the bond
@@JackHudler correct I shouldn't have said maker but instead reseller I have a RTX 3090 graphics card and one of its cooling fans was glued back on seems to be fine but that was my experience with Ali express 😂
@@JackHudler I'm pretty sure my graphics card was used but when I got it it did look brand new besides the obvious blade being glued back on .... I'm thinking somewhere out there someone is able to get product that did not pass quality control fixed and then resell
@@mommapanda5736 - would you prefer I said something like "...thereby increasing the pressure gradient within the fracture, percipitating the near instantaneous transmission of the contained stresses throughout the remaining strutural material resulting in apparent rapid disintegration of the forward inclined blade from the greater hub assembly of the impeller?"
Micro fractures from the production process allows the ethernol in the fuel to penitrate and then expand as it evaporated. Isopropyl alcohol does the same with laser cut acrylic.
I'm not an expert, but the fan blades cry instant thermal shock (probably would do the same with water). Great that the clutch problem is fixed (sort of) and the CKP gremlin is gone. For every new episode, there's some new unforeseen hurdle(s) - that's what keeps it exciting! Keep pushing forward :-)
The fan blades popping off might be due to being damaged before you bought it and the gas dissolving the glue they used to stick them back on. I've fixed many a pc fan with stuperglue. Once a blade has been broken, it's not hard for it to come off again at the most random disturbance.
@@JackHudler Yeah, I'm aware. But he got that radiator/pump/fan combo from the jungle site. There's no way to be sure that it wasn't damaged before HE bought it.
I dont know why it popped off, but ive had this happen to a computer fan in my computer because of wire obstruction and the missing blade cause excessive vibration. I had to snap off a blade from the other end to balance it out. You may not have to do this but you should run the vehicle with your cooler fans on to check if its vibrating too hard. If it does it could cause premature failure on the fan if left unchecked for idk how long. You should replace or snap off the opposite side blades.
Fan blade snapping is from solvent absorption. The test you did to check for susceptibility wasn't actually telling you much, because plastic+solvent behavior can be really confusing and weird. Even if it doesn't melt entirely, it can easily soak up the gasoline and change the material properties of the plastic.
so with the gaskets they would need to be taken off and retorqued since the pressure from combustion blew them out, which funny enough is how oil leaks are usually caused. faulty pcv puts pressure on seals and such so if your valve cover is leaking pop the pcv out and you'll more than likely see it clogged up or flat out stuck. for extra power you can hook up some suction as this will decrease the resistance made by crankcase pressure however over doing it on stock seals will suck them in, depending on how desperate you are for power it can be worth it as I've seen chevy small blocks gain 100 to 125 with changes to the oiling system and moly coating alone only other thing i can say is some headwork and valvetrain would go a long way however i doubt there's cams for these engines designed for boost
It seems like the 5 speed is doing less and less as you get the motor/clutch better tuned. Is it practical to either delete it, or gut the internals of the transmission to make it as close to direct drive as possible? I image that would save some driveline losses, and a bit of weight.
Is it a red na miata :P And those dastardly gnomes causing issues at the end 😤. I feel 0-30 and up times can be made a bit better if the dip angle of the opening bottom portion of the pulley wasn't so steep. I know on 2 strokes scooters with cvt.we don't want to drop out of our powerband so we usually find driver pulleys with smoother transitions. As for the fan. Could the gas/heat/shaking cause the death of one of the fans?
Wheel bearings and drivetrain while cold are much harder to turn, warmer weather like 90°F+ you'll find MUCH lower rolling resistance. As we know the less resistance in the powertrain equals more power transferred to the wheels. This may sound counter intuitive however if you do a top speed run 1st, then the 0-60 you might shave a second off due to less drivetrain resistance when at operating temp. The transmission oil weight might also be something to look into as well as open bearings in the wheel hubs instead of sealed (much better rotation at the massive cost of longevity). Great video series!! Thank you :)
Just a guess, but the oil leaks and gasket failures might be because of positive crank case pressure? I'm not sure if those engines come with pcv from the factory but even if so it might not be enough. I'm no auto engineer so my only idea would be a good ol' valve cover hole, unless you could outfit that engine with a catch can or air/oil separator.
Literally watching you talk about your gas can woes when I see a notification for project farm, and that man has an uncanny knack for being relevant cause wouldn't you know, he's doing gas cans today!
Not surprised to see the headbolts lost their spec after a run.. We build several engines with ARP 625s that require a hot torque for this reason. My suggestion would be to source a MLS gasket (I found a few online) as well as studs if possible. Unfortunately, clamping force and gasket material are gonna be the life and death of that engine under boost. Luckily, looks like IATs are under control, so as long as you can figure out a way to keep the top-end and clutch happy, its time to add boost and fuel. Also, really good call on the noise interference seen in the datalog- you're a lucky dog it actually showed up there though lol! With a lot of the in-depth electrical diag I've done on vehicles for noise interference, it will set DTCs but the scanner data stream won't show anything out of place due to the refresh rate of the scanner data vs what the PCM is actually able to see. Normally have to use a scope to find those failures.. As for the fan- nothing surprises me anymore when it comes to plastic.. Obviously certain plastics are very strong, and very reliable.. however I see failures almost daily with cheap CAIs, E-fans, etc that just aren't designed to handle the heat in a closed engine bay.
My father was a old school engine builder. We was very particular about head bolt torqueing. His method was 5 stages walking up to final torque. He would also ALWAYS hot toque and engine at the end of the cam break in, and then check it again hot after a week of operation.
@@cmcbunch I really appreciate the old school engine builders. The 5 stages walking up to final torque seem critical. Checking again hot after a week of operation sounds like old school wisdom.
Is it a Plastic bodied Saturn SC-1 or 2? Those cars are so light. Know someone who had one that would get 30mpg with how he drove it. It had the "dent resistant" panels, and what that meant was the whole outer shell was plastic, so no sheet metal.
It's residual stress from the injection molding. There are microcracks at the surface that have high surface energy at the tip, when the solvent gets to them the cracks accelerate and release the stress. You can get the same effect if you have those old injection molded clothespins, clamp it on your finger and spray it with acetone. It'll immediately break apart.
The tranny oil to intake trick was a fun thing I did in the 70's to back off tailgaters on the highway. I used an ANCO wiper fluid motor drawing the tranny oil from container, using a push button placed inside of my '77 Dodge 360ci truck at the time, I could smoke out a dangerous tailgater when traveling on interstate, and they always fell back, or quickly passed me at first chance. Since the truck came without catalytic convertor in those years, damage to such wasn't a problem.
I'm the guy who recommended the PC water cooler, snap 1 fin on the opposite corner so it's (mostly) balanced with 4 top and 4 bottom fins, I've serviced quite a few computers where that was done "temporarily" to stop vibration
Thanks! A few more blades have fallen off since we shot that segment of video. We ended up snapping off all the blades so the water pump would still work.
@@robotcantina8957 Can buy some cheapo 120mm fans off of amazon and screw them to the other side for a pull config instead of a push! Make sure they don't have some proprietary controller though, then you can run them directly off the cars 12v circuit since that's what they use in the PC.
The Suzuki Maruti 800 had a 3 cylinder, 800cc engine making ~35hp, and it could hit ~140km/h with 0-100 in just under 21 seconds. Now, the car only weighted like 680kg, but I feel like little cement mixer engine has to be churning out at least 25-30 horsepower with the performance you're getting from the ~870kg Honda Insight. That's crazy, at 25hp you've right about doubled the original power output.
Have you considered ditching the TAV and just using the 5 speed? Perhaps a centrifugal clutch with about a 2:1 jackshaft from the clutch to the transmission? You'd have to hit every gear but I feel like you're losing alot of power through that cvt
It aint a cvt But yeah torque converters probably lose a bit of power Using both a torque converter and a 5 speed is a little redundant Just use one of them to reduce parasitic losses Idk tho Dude has been working on this forever and probably knows what's good for this car
@@justsomepandawithinternet Bro... It's a CVT. It's not a CVT like a Nissan used but it IS a CVT. Im sure he knows more about the car than I do, but I wanted to ask. He used to be pretty good about answering questions like this, so he might provide a good reason for not. I mostly just wanted to know if he is just married to the CVT shifting itself.
From working with fans in a professional environment one of the primary failure mechanisms of fans is the molding process leaving the plastic highly locally stressed. The glass fill may also be poorly controlled or too much regrind included for cost saving purposes. Nearly all cheap fans have blades that are poorly molded and can snap off at the most inopportune times, kind of like how an old rotten tree might fall down on a windless day when a storm passed through only a week before. I wouldn't think too much into this as it's a common failure in inexpensive or poorly sourced fans. You probably just thermally shocked it or something of that nature. There's a reason high quality fans cost so much more than the low cost ones. Any quality manufacturer tests the crap out of any fan they source and finds those flaws before it ever makes it to the customer. You don't have that luxury!
I would have to guess some internal stresses in the plastic from the casting process, decided they needed to be relieved when the gas reacted with it. You tried reaction again on already broken piece, you would need a control fan to test the reaction properly
could you add another crank angle sensor input to the speeduino? Datalog the RPM of the output shaft of the torque converter/CVT. Could be handy for stuff like calculate gear ratios, would be able to see where the belt stops slipping and the gear ratios change and max out, monitor belt slippage or diagnose whatever?
@@Mitchd03 Just wanted to articulate that I feel your comment is well thought out and sounds like some good engineering. Dataloging the RPM and so forth sounds great for diagnosing. I like to use emoji, so I put those at the end of my sentence for fun. 🌹🌹
Haven't tried with that particular motor but every chance I get with a small engine I just toss the head gasket in favor of copper RTV thinly applied. I check clearance and run high octane fuel. free HP.
You can get old fashioned gas can spouts online, if you're tired of the California approved one that seems determined to spill gas every time you use it and leave its o-ring in your gas tank.
Or get a No Spill gas can. They are a bit pricey, but also the only decent one I have seen for sale these days and it's very easy to use since it's operated by a button instead of some stupid sliding spout mechanism. I'd suggest trying one if you use gas cans with any regularity, it makes life so much easier and is worth every penny.
If you go on the jungle site there are nice gas can spout kits that come with a flexibe nozzle with a scew on cap and a vent that you drill into the can.
Hey man, huge fan here: Was just thinking and I'm sure it's been mentioned but in future videos if you upgrade to the 670cc 22hp HF engine it might be more interesting as well as useful to some people as that might be a legitimate engine swap for certain vehicles, albeit quite underpowered but definitely an option with new engines costing a literal fortune, mechanics shops booked for months ahead of time, and gas being over $5 a gallon-I could see some enterprising poorer folks dropping in a 670cc and just rocking it. Anyway, it just popped into my mind, have a great day and I appreciate all your videos.
So unfortunately I had Life cereal instead of Crunch, but Those fans from Antec CPU coolers are not UV resistant at all, and don't hold up to elements well. Combine that with the gasoline flash-evaporating and the fan would have cooled FAST, and probably fragmented some existing cracks in the injection mold
I would suggest launching in 2nd and skipping 3rd go straight to 4th at the point you see the rev start to climb fast that's where the vct is at full lock.
My grand caravan has one of those flex joints between the cat and the manifold. It went and i was quoted $1200 for a new converter, so i decided to see if anyone could just replace the Flex pipe, they quoted me $1500 for that. I bought an aftermarket cat on eBay for $185 and got it installed for $200. (We don't have emissions tests here or I'm not so sure I would pass)
This series just gets better and better. And every new problem just adds to the interest. If I didn't know better, I'd assume you were conspiring with the garage gnomes to engineer entertaining failures...
I'm wondering what the parasitic loss is through the pulleys and chains before it even gets to the transmission. What are the gear ratios aswell, I'm super curious how it would perform going through the transmission without all the other pulleys and belts. Also having only 3 slugs in the clutch engaging first until the lighter weight ones (which have been proven to slip) is just like hiring 3 good employees to pick up the slack from the other 6 who don't "pull thier weight". If the dyno is what I think it is the ppwer goes down as rpms go up so utilising that lower power might be more useful than doing eh what top fuel dragster do which is floor the gas and progressively slip the clutch the whole way (hence they need to be replaced all the time).
What was the temperature of the gas? Might want to use a filler hose ? Plus there could be impurities in your plastics from the jungle sites supplier (aka China).
You can shave the clutch weights to make up different combinations. What you want is to have the engine held at peak rpm/ hp and while Im not sure where that is on your engine I think your close. Secondary should just control up shift and back shift. This can be done with heavier or lighter springs as well as spring wrap or twist and different helix angles, straight or compound angles. Not sure what if any of those secondary parts are available for your particular model secondary though.
Gas popping the fan blade might be from some kind of thermal contraction/expansion. If the blades were warm and the gas was spilled on them, the evaporating gasoline would have caused those blades to cool down rapidly. This may have caused enough stress internally to the plastic fan blades to cause them to break/pop off.
My guess as well.
Considering they're most likely nylon, I doubt the gas itself has anything to do with it, rather just like you said thermal shock.
Computer fan blades have rather strict tolerances for expansion, considering the cost, since it affects performance. That means a stiff material used
it's probably bc the gasoline dry rotted them/ corroded them
Not only that, but I also bet the fan blades were already quite fatigued from the high temperatures in the engine bay, these fans are only meant for computers after all.
@@bishopworks3203 A lot of this is completely unexpected.
The fan blades might have been thermal shock or just crappy injection molding with a lot of internal stress. That's an interesting issue however.
I had oatmeal for breakfast, but I am a mechanical engineer, and agree with this hypothesis.
theres also the fact the stream of gas would of slammed the blade into in the rad, compounding any defects wether they be a moulding issue, installed wrong and rubbing, or ate some gravel whilst driving
The top of the fan blades are also matte which gives more surface area for the fuel to evaporate off, and gasoline has very high calorific values Btu/gal (when it evaporates like butane it gets much colder) which made it act like a freezer. plastics do not like rapid thermal expansion/contraction and POP!
I had lucky charms, and I'd concur. Between the molding, the possibility of a prior internal fracture, and pouring the fuel onto a warm blade (assuming they were sitting in the sun).
I ate breakfast at mcds and U guys are all wrong it was those damn Gnomes they broke the fan blade to sabotage this guy's experiment!
I look forward to Sundays to watch your whimsically serious videos. It's fun watching someone fool around seriously and enjoying themselves and I sponge off your fun. looking forward to next week and I'm still on the record for 84 MPH with the v-twin BIG BLOCK!
@Dr. Whoneedstoknow Sounds good to me.!
@@kansasrose2909 The price is right for me too..
@@mommapanda5736 Do the gnomes live in Middle Earth like the Hobbits do??
@@kansasrose2909 Most likely, but in different neighborhoods...
@@mommapanda5736 I could watch ROBOT CANTINA every day of
the week and twice on Sundays.
The fan blade may have already been stressed in some way or maybe even partially fractured and the corrosive addition of the gasoline may have been enough to finish it off. Also I'm a 19 year old from Michigan and am modifying a chevy trailblazer with a stock 4200 vortec with parts from a gmc envoy. My plan is to find out just how much power you can safely get out of an inline 6 with a stock transmission. Also the gmc will likely be used in a demolition derby in the near future. Let me know if you want to meet up and work on a project.
12:35 The 2Cv had a very long life. It started in the 1950's and the last were produced in 1990. The engine has been upgraded several times and in the 1970's the "biggest" one was a 602cm3 and could do 110 to 120km/h (depending of the wind...)
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citro%C3%ABn_2CV
i can confirm this :D scary if you reach the speed in an old 2Cv
Grampa in its youth had a 3cv, always told me wind was key, front wind: cruise at 80 max, nice tailwind: you could elongate 4th gear and the speedo woult tell 120 and lets assume it was 100 real !
@@NaN.404 I come here for the detail and stay for the comments.
@@kansasrose2909 I come for the comments and stay for
the lunacy.
Those damn Gardengnomes messing with the gaskets!
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️Do the gardengnomes live in middle earth with the hobbits??
Where does the gollum fit in?
Was't gollum looking for some kind of ring?
3 minutes in and a new video, that 6 day wait by the computer was worth it.
Did they slide food under the door for you?
@@mommapanda5736 The world is awaiting more ROBOT CANTINA!
@@kansasrose2909 Member of R .. Cantina fan club here.
the plastic blades, when they moulded them at the factory have a high stress area in the corner. this is caused by the plastic cooling fast on the outside and slow in the middle. the middle shrinks causing the high stress area.
if you get some clear plastic cutlery or look at a set of plastic headlights with a pair of polarized lenses sunglasses, you can see the stress areas in the plastic.
acrylic plastics are very susceptible to solvents, where if there is a high enough stress moulded into the plastic the plastic will break down a little from the solvent and the internal stress causes the plastic to crack and split.
very similar to safety glass or "tempered" glass
Sounds about right. I've had the same happen to the cheap plastic buckle on a shoe when it got a little splash of gasoline. Instant disintegration!
Same principle is what creates the Prince Rupert's Drops.
@@fnorgen yeah, i had same thing while removing the jewel from an OG Xbox console to repaint it and change it's color. i put some solvent to loosen up the glue residue on the backside before i sanded off the paint... and it literally broke into pieces
@@lilshawn2 I come here for the detail and stay for the comments.
@@kansasrose2909 RUclips comments can be the best comments!
...and also the worst!
Thank you very much. I hope the project is fun for you too!
"Too far down the rabbit hole for this project" - are you nuts ? This project defines crazy rabbit holes !
Yes... we are halfway to China now.
@@mommapanda5736 Are you ready for the big heat dome this weekend.
@@kansasrose2909 Oh my gosh,, it will be like an oven over the lower states.
@@mommapanda5736 Keep your airconditioner running if you can.
SO, there is a really interesting thing that happens when you get ethanol on acrylic. It hydro cracks. If you have seen all of the spit barriers in the stores cracked its because someone cleaned them with the ethanol containing sanitizer. I don't know if this is what happened with the fan blades, but it a possibility. As for the test, ethanol evaporates pretty quickly so if the test sample had been out of the canister for a while maybe the ethanol was evaporated off enough.
Captain Crunch for breakfast, I can tell!
It’s called crazing and Ethanols and alcohols will do that to Acrylic. The material used for the fan blades is typically a nylon either 6 or 66 depending on the temperature exposure. My guess is there was some molded in stress and the stress was relieved from the thermal shock of the gasoline hitting it.
@@TheOriginalLugnuts that would also make sense. I am not sure what the mold for the fans looks like but there might be a "weld line" where the blades meet the hub.
@@mitchfillbach1115 A light bulb just went off in my head. 📡
@@kansasrose2909 Is it because JImbo is a genius????
This build is badass. Channel host is funny too.
Fan blades may have been already damaged and glued back together? Don't know if gasoline melts CA glue but acetone sure does.
I’m wondering if you take out the transmission and make a solid axle with a differential somehow and just used to commet clutch as a torque converter it’ll get rid of a lot of weight and you’ll have more room
A light bulb just went off in my head, 💥💥💥
Thanks JIMBO I can’t wait to see the new rig!!! I’ll see ya next week!
New project car is a Fiero 🤣
Thanks for adding some SI Units for us non-Americans
re: fan blades breaking on exposure to gasoline, my guess is either (1) the blades were glued together w/ gas soluble glue for w/ever reason, or (2) a tiny crack had developed in the plastic & filled itself in w/ brake dust/pollen/oil/grime/etc., & that material absorbs gas & swells, breaking the plastic on contact
No Capt crunch, I had some "Love Crunch" this morning, which is kinda the sidekick of Capt'n Crunch, and she's telling me, that most likely the blades have been hit by a small pebble, or a bug during operation.
The 2CV started out with a 9hp 375cc parallel twin engine, but ended up on their last models with a 29HP 600cc engine. That engine was able to do 65mph.
Sounds like Valentine's Day at your house💖💖 She sounds sweet and smart. Every day is a holiday when you are in love...🌹🌹
@@kansasrose2909 I am buying my breakfast cereal now.
We use to drill out the steel weights inside the sliders to get the desired weight reduction. I would recommend you do the same. For as far as the fan blades, some injection molded parts, especially thin and long parts like fan blades, can have high internal stresses due to cooling too quickly and shrinkage. If it's a stiff polymer and it's hot (probably was) then dumping gas on it which extracts heat very quickly to evaporate, you could cause the part to fail. It's just my best guess.
👍👍👍👍
Have you provided additional crank case ventilation? May want configur a system off the oil fill. A large inline fuel would work. Pluse kinda act like a catch can.
An ideal spot may be the original governor lever, its not funny to blow seals and gaskets bc crankcase pressure
I've enjoyed your shows so much since episode 1 and have also learned a lot along the way. I actually get excited to eat because that's when I usually get an episode or two in. Fantastic work by the whole crew. P.S. You should setup a Patreon. I would happily subscribe for monthly contributions to help fund the show. I'm sure there are many others that would participate as well. If you do create a Patreon, please let everyone know in your new videos and description because I want to see a 212cc stupid charged idiot cooled Lamborghini 😁
At the heart of gratitude, kindness and compassion can be found.
@@mommapanda5736 Jimbo, please keep making these great videos!
Take the gearbox out of the occasion; a fixed custom made single gearset replicating your current 4th gear ratio will reduce driveline losses and most likely improve 1 to 2 seconds on your 0-60 (my 2 cents).
Keep us posted on your ventures; loving the series!
4th in a 5 speed is often 1:1 but can vary a little, either slightly over driven or slightly under driven. A fixed ratio between 3rd and 4th, but closer to 4th may prove better. Dual cvt setup could be an exercise in crazy futility, or something amazing!
Nice one... great trick with the atf, hadn´t seen that one before. Cheers!
Also If you could use an spark plug with resistance they have an R letter after numbers on the NGK's, that helps with interference on the EFI management
Second this, had a yamaha that has tci ignition and for electronoise reduction manual recommended the ngk c"R"7hsa, and the aftermarket one i ended getting in town was the regular c7hsa.
Bike ran fine but may messed with the aftermarket immobilizator module making it think i was not there and triggering the alarm, fun discovery :D
I really hope you get the gold RUclips plaque you deserve it or a day time Emmy
Emmy and plaque, yes JIMBO gets my vote!
@@mommapanda5736 Love is in the air.💖💖💖💖
could be the fact that it did react a little with the plastic and where the blade meets the hub is just a high stress point
If only they made a 3 speed ....amazing work yall , I love this project and how you show some basics on clutch tuning. This is usually "Greek" to me so I'm glad to see it in video form cause with the visual, it's easier to understand.
Looking forward to another project from this channel.
@@kansasrose2909 Does he put out videos on the weekend?
@@mommapanda5736 Are you ready for the massive heat dome this weekend. ??
@@kansasrose2909 omg no.
@@mommapanda5736 😜😜😜
Were the fans warm and the cool fuel hit them and rapidly expanded off of them further cooling them and caused them to crack.
Are you ready for the thermal heat dome this weekend??
You can add washer to stiffen spring witch will raise engagement rpm
Plus if he'd get a damn shorter belt.
@@midixiewrecked7011 Damn right!!
@@mommapanda5736 💖💖💖
That easter egg has got to be a Saturn. I bet you scooped up an old 2000's Saturn SC. I had one, and it was made of tupperware and ran on love. Best $500 I ever spent.
Close... 97 SC1.... Saturns S series were probably the best cheap cars ever built.
Nice! I had a 99 SL1 and an 01 SC1. I always wanted one of the SW wagons and an Ion Redline. The motors could take some abuse, but those transmissions were made of tissue paper!
@@divideXzero Robot, we love your channel.
@@kansasrose2909 Looking forward to the next build, Robot.
@@mommapanda5736 Robot.... bring on the gnomes🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️!!
the fan blade thing is most likely a combination of thermal contraction/expansion and just purely bad plastic, maybe there was a hairline crack, maybe not, could have also just popped from some weight dropping onto them, liquids weigh a lot
would recommend getting something like noctuas industrial fans, robust blades and great perfomance
I'd assume the heat cycles underneath the hood are very hard on the fan plastic because it's meant to be in a computer case that would generally not exceed like 65-75C max. I hope the water pumps don't have the same plastic for their internals!
Me too!
I wonder if you do a larger diameter exhaust off the engine ( header) if it will help the engine at all, I know the correct tuned about of back pressure is important when making power and making the engine more efficient. It's gotta push the exhaust a long way, and through a long muffler does that effect the back pressure? Would a more open shorter glass pack muffler help? With the super charger bringing in more air I think if you port and polish the head with a larger exhaust you could produce the same power level at a lower boost level? Saving head gaskets? These are questions I've had watching your videos and very interested in what you think!
After fully sheet metaling the bottom of my old race car I noticed better gas mileage, smoother at high speeds and less wind noise.
Thermal shock on the fan blade pop. The sound is a dead giveaway. It was under stress and the pop was the stress being released energetically.
Are you ready for the big heat dome this weekend??
@@kansasrose2909 OH my gosh.... It will be like an oven over the lower states.
The car performing better in the heat probably comes down to drivetrain losses;
Grease in CVs and wheelbearings is thick, gear lube in the manual trans ( diff) is thin, but thinner when warm all reducing parasitic losses.
Warmer temps also generally means suspension components settle better because all of the bushing, rod ends etc move more freely, having everything settled and neutral is very important for low rolling resistance.
Speaking of low rolling resistance, heat will increase tyre pressure reducing rolling resistance, so thats a plus.
Can also try ATF in manual transmission to lower drive train losses. Some 4x4s here in Australia use atf in manuals so mustn't hurt anything
hey jimbo, speaking of fan blades, remove the fan from the flywheel and put an electric fan on the he head, something like a delta tfc1212de. pretty much all of those fixed mounted mechanical fans are super inefficient compared to modern fans, i wouldn't be surprised if it was using up a whole(!) horsepower.
i’m upset i found this series last episode, but so damn happy i found it in general
A lot of this is completely unexpected.
@@kansasrose2909 I watch the videos several times to get
all the good points.
I am buying my cereal now....
@@mommapanda5736 Is it honey bunches of oats??
I'd like to see this with classical clutch and just the 5 speed, might be faster due to higher efficiency.
Hes gone over this in previous episodes, these engines dont have a thrust bearing like a car so the tension from a clutch would destroy the engine rather quickly, these engines bearings are made for side loads instead, so to run a clutch would require him to either use his engine to run a secondary flywheel that is just powered by the engine via belt or chain or he needs a whole different type of engine
HEY JIMBO..... congratulations on reaching 100k subscribers.. ROBOT CANTINA is providing the
entertainment and fun that viewers enjoy..
Jimbo, please keep making these great videos!
If the HG pops again, try to find a multi layer steel gasket. Those can hold up to some serious boost.
Or just make your own HG out of annealed copper sheet.
Good call on that exhaust leak. Every time an exhaust pulse passes the leak it creates a low pressure gaspocket behind it which in turn allowes ambient air to be drawn through the leak into the exhaust which in turn will be pushed past the O2 sensor scewing the reading. The sensor will detect more O2 and the ECU will start dumping more fuel in, more then is really needed.
These are both great ideas
@@sebastianharrison6118 Great ideas are worth noting.
@@kansasrose2909 and doing.
@@mommapanda5736 😊😊😊
Do the gnomes live in Middle Earth like the Hobbits do??
Goat powered sport strikes again!
I’ll go with thermal shock for the broken fan blades.
As a datum, my Porsche will do 0-60 in 4.8 seconds and my MG wont do it at all without a very steep hill.
Love your work Jimbo 👍
A light bulb just went off in my head. 💥💥💥
I LOVE this channel. It’s one of the highlights of my week. Very excited to see this baby hit the highway. I also hope AAA is on standby 😉
I am excited too... and yes to tow car on standby for safety sake. 🚙🚙🚙🚙
@@kansasrose2909 Looking forward to the next build.
@@mommapanda5736 What will JIMBO do next??
@@kansasrose2909 I come for the comments here and
stay for the lunacy.
@@mommapanda5736 😜😜😜😜💥
Fan blades may have already been damaged and had small cracks. When the fuel hit the shock just finished an already started failure. Could be that the fuel caused the area in an already damaged crack swell ever so slightly that it just caused it to pop.
Don't know if the fans were turning or not, but if they were, impacting the gas flexed the blade enough to hit the fan frame.
1:44 - slipping due to light pucks is not the root cause, but an effect of increasing horse power at given rpm. The spring is the one that drives the tension, the pucks adjust the rpm the CVT shifts at in combination with the spring. But for tuning, you normally increase the spring first to get higher torque transfer without slipping (which also increase the rpm), then adjust the pucks to make it shift at the optimal rpm (peak hp) 🤓
It took way too long for someone to write this. Almost started writing myself because of previous episodes
@@DC_DC_DC_DC I am glad to see the comment here.
@@kansasrose2909 I come here for the comments and stay
for the lunacy of this channel.
@@mommapanda5736 💖💖💖
As a non united states habitant, and may i speak for the rest of the world, THANKS for the metric conversions on the edit, yall northamericans have me converting everything in another tab or on the phone to make some sense to view!
Regarding cvt slipping and temperatures: i have seen paints at racetracks in pits that dissapear or change color within X temperature is reached, this is applied to disc brakes to monitor cooling, top temp, and whatnot. Im not sure how this paint is called but you paint stripes direct in the edge of the disk or in this case clutch!
Also you mentioning removing the gearbox, what about a direct coupling to the honda gearbox, but with a centrifugal clutch, and a one way bearing or sprocket like the ones on the rear of bycicles. The combination of these two may make the gearbox more usable without the need of an axial clutch, just let go the gas, wait for rpm to drop a bit and next gear shoud enter..¿easier? and not waste any precious kg/m on slipping and heating a belt!
Hello and greetings to friends around the world. 🌎🌎🌎🌎🌏🌏🌍🌍
@@kansasrose2909 The world awaits another great video here.
@@mommapanda5736 Have your purchased your breakfast cereal yet??☕☕☕☕👍👍
Have you ever had fresh ground cinnamon? Whole new ballgame. Thanks for your videos by the way. They always improve my mood.
durability , right out the window . really fun show
I ran into the same problems with engines won't stop leaking oil and gaskets keep failing I learned to use Liquid copper it helps on selling an engine up you can actually glue a motor back together with that stuff
I remember a long time ago we talked about the injector :) I was packing some garage stuff to move recently and found perfect injectors for this, thought about your car immediately when I saw them! Problem is that I live in Sweden and you probably got injetors by now :)
It's surprising the supercharger doesn't improve anything at low speed. It's not as if the tires were loosing traction...
Do you have a way to monitor the CVT slip? Could this be the issue under 30 mph?
I’d assume the loss of low end torque is due to the cvt slipping.
@@fearofchicke I assume the same.
Your videos are awesome. Always have me cracking up over here. I love the bit about the cereal. Perfect amount of comedy injection for your unique style of video. It's been a blast to watch this channel mature into one of my favorites. We love you guys! Y'all do amazing work!
Love you guys too... Cereal is the new comfort food.
@@mommapanda5736 I really like oatmeal with banana slices for comfort. Has anyone tried french toast lately?
French toast with ham and powdered sugar, yum.
I have purchased my breakfast cereal ..... ☕☕☕☕
@@kansasrose2909 For me, honey bunches of oats.
Love this video! Especially mentioning my 2 favorite cars, the Fiat 500 and 2CV. In reference to the Citroen 2CV: the final model of the 2CV could go "115 km/h (71 mph) in 1981" with its flat twin 602cc motor. Actually, the whole little car was amazing and technologically ahead of its time. If you get the chance, read the Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citroën_2CV
Back when Citroën actually made innovative cars.
I had a Honda 600 and a few 2 stroke Suzuki in Japan not much bigger engines
I have a fiat 500L, 18hp, and it goes happily over 60mph :D but not by much. Maybe I should ask Jimbo for a supercharger advice🤣
Not sure if they make these for this engine but I have used a thinner copper gasket with some great success.
Make sure the engine's crankcase is properly vented or the crankcase could be under pressure while making boost and for the fan blade it may have been super glued back on from the maker so when the gas hit it it broke the bond
@@JackHudler correct I shouldn't have said maker but instead reseller I have a RTX 3090 graphics card and one of its cooling fans was glued back on seems to be fine but that was my experience with Ali express 😂
@@JackHudler I'm pretty sure my graphics card was used but when I got it it did look brand new besides the obvious blade being glued back on .... I'm thinking somewhere out there someone is able to get product that did not pass quality control fixed and then resell
@@JackHudler Robot, we love this channel.
@@mommapanda5736 What will JImbo do next????
Warm gasoline seeps into stress cracks, cooling increases density of fuel in the crack causing fluid expansion which finishes off the the blade.
I wondered about that.. finishing off the blade you say?
@@mommapanda5736 - would you prefer I said something like "...thereby increasing the pressure gradient within the fracture, percipitating the near instantaneous transmission of the contained stresses throughout the remaining strutural material resulting in apparent rapid disintegration of the forward inclined blade from the greater hub assembly of the impeller?"
Love your content bro. Keep up the outstanding work
Micro fractures from the production process allows the ethernol in the fuel to penitrate and then expand as it evaporated. Isopropyl alcohol does the same with laser cut acrylic.
The world is awaiting more ROBOT CANTINA~!
@@kansasrose2909 me too.
I'm not an expert, but the fan blades cry instant thermal shock (probably would do the same with water). Great that the clutch problem is fixed (sort of) and the CKP gremlin is gone.
For every new episode, there's some new unforeseen hurdle(s) - that's what keeps it exciting! Keep pushing forward :-)
The fan blades popping off might be due to being damaged before you bought it and the gas dissolving the glue they used to stick them back on. I've fixed many a pc fan with stuperglue. Once a blade has been broken, it's not hard for it to come off again at the most random disturbance.
@@JackHudler Yeah, I'm aware. But he got that radiator/pump/fan combo from the jungle site. There's no way to be sure that it wasn't damaged before HE bought it.
I dont know why it popped off, but ive had this happen to a computer fan in my computer because of wire obstruction and the missing blade cause excessive vibration. I had to snap off a blade from the other end to balance it out. You may not have to do this but you should run the vehicle with your cooler fans on to check if its vibrating too hard. If it does it could cause premature failure on the fan if left unchecked for idk how long. You should replace or snap off the opposite side blades.
Fan blade snapping is from solvent absorption. The test you did to check for susceptibility wasn't actually telling you much, because plastic+solvent behavior can be really confusing and weird.
Even if it doesn't melt entirely, it can easily soak up the gasoline and change the material properties of the plastic.
so with the gaskets they would need to be taken off and retorqued since the pressure from combustion blew them out, which funny enough is how oil leaks are usually caused. faulty pcv puts pressure on seals and such so if your valve cover is leaking pop the pcv out and you'll more than likely see it clogged up or flat out stuck.
for extra power you can hook up some suction as this will decrease the resistance made by crankcase pressure however over doing it on stock seals will suck them in, depending on how desperate you are for power it can be worth it as I've seen chevy small blocks gain 100 to 125 with changes to the oiling system and moly coating alone
only other thing i can say is some headwork and valvetrain would go a long way however i doubt there's cams for these engines designed for boost
It seems like the 5 speed is doing less and less as you get the motor/clutch better tuned. Is it practical to either delete it, or gut the internals of the transmission to make it as close to direct drive as possible? I image that would save some driveline losses, and a bit of weight.
Yes to this.
Is it a red na miata :P
And those dastardly gnomes causing issues at the end 😤.
I feel 0-30 and up times can be made a bit better if the dip angle of the opening bottom portion of the pulley wasn't so steep. I know on 2 strokes scooters with cvt.we don't want to drop out of our powerband so we usually find driver pulleys with smoother transitions.
As for the fan. Could the gas/heat/shaking cause the death of one of the fans?
Want be long now and the video will start off with a rolling top fuel stile burn out 💪 thanks for the video
Wheel bearings and drivetrain while cold are much harder to turn, warmer weather like 90°F+ you'll find MUCH lower rolling resistance. As we know the less resistance in the powertrain equals more power transferred to the wheels. This may sound counter intuitive however if you do a top speed run 1st, then the 0-60 you might shave a second off due to less drivetrain resistance when at operating temp. The transmission oil weight might also be something to look into as well as open bearings in the wheel hubs instead of sealed (much better rotation at the massive cost of longevity).
Great video series!! Thank you :)
Yep, this is a theory of mine as well.
Fan blades snaping off my guess instant thermal shock.
love the scatches at the end of the videos ^^
Love those scratches🗯️🗯️🗯️🗯️🗯️🗯️
Just a guess, but the oil leaks and gasket failures might be because of positive crank case pressure? I'm not sure if those engines come with pcv from the factory but even if so it might not be enough. I'm no auto engineer so my only idea would be a good ol' valve cover hole, unless you could outfit that engine with a catch can or air/oil separator.
Literally watching you talk about your gas can woes when I see a notification for project farm, and that man has an uncanny knack for being relevant cause wouldn't you know, he's doing gas cans today!
Not surprised to see the headbolts lost their spec after a run.. We build several engines with ARP 625s that require a hot torque for this reason. My suggestion would be to source a MLS gasket (I found a few online) as well as studs if possible. Unfortunately, clamping force and gasket material are gonna be the life and death of that engine under boost. Luckily, looks like IATs are under control, so as long as you can figure out a way to keep the top-end and clutch happy, its time to add boost and fuel.
Also, really good call on the noise interference seen in the datalog- you're a lucky dog it actually showed up there though lol! With a lot of the in-depth electrical diag I've done on vehicles for noise interference, it will set DTCs but the scanner data stream won't show anything out of place due to the refresh rate of the scanner data vs what the PCM is actually able to see. Normally have to use a scope to find those failures..
As for the fan- nothing surprises me anymore when it comes to plastic.. Obviously certain plastics are very strong, and very reliable.. however I see failures almost daily with cheap CAIs, E-fans, etc that just aren't designed to handle the heat in a closed engine bay.
My father was a old school engine builder. We was very particular about head bolt torqueing. His method was 5 stages walking up to final torque. He would also ALWAYS hot toque and engine at the end of the cam break in, and then check it again hot after a week of operation.
@@cmcbunch I really appreciate the old school engine builders. The 5 stages walking up to final torque seem critical.
Checking again hot after a week of operation sounds like old school wisdom.
@@kansasrose2909 Looking forward to the new build for ROBOT CANTINA.
Is it a Plastic bodied Saturn SC-1 or 2? Those cars are so light. Know someone who had one that would get 30mpg with how he drove it. It had the "dent resistant" panels, and what that meant was the whole outer shell was plastic, so no sheet metal.
😉😉😉😉
Fan blade: maybe pre stressed from mould injection, the gas weaken the stress point?
It's residual stress from the injection molding. There are microcracks at the surface that have high surface energy at the tip, when the solvent gets to them the cracks accelerate and release the stress. You can get the same effect if you have those old injection molded clothespins, clamp it on your finger and spray it with acetone. It'll immediately break apart.
👍👍👍
Good morning everyone hope everyone is having a blessed Sunday
The tranny oil to intake trick was a fun thing I did in the 70's to back off tailgaters on the highway. I used an ANCO wiper fluid motor drawing the tranny oil from container, using a push button placed inside of my '77 Dodge 360ci truck at the time, I could smoke out a dangerous tailgater when traveling on interstate, and they always fell back, or quickly passed me at first chance. Since the truck came without catalytic convertor in those years, damage to such wasn't a problem.
I'm the guy who recommended the PC water cooler, snap 1 fin on the opposite corner so it's (mostly) balanced with 4 top and 4 bottom fins, I've serviced quite a few computers where that was done "temporarily" to stop vibration
Thanks! A few more blades have fallen off since we shot that segment of video. We ended up snapping off all the blades so the water pump would still work.
@@robotcantina8957 Can buy some cheapo 120mm fans off of amazon and screw them to the other side for a pull config instead of a push! Make sure they don't have some proprietary controller though, then you can run them directly off the cars 12v circuit since that's what they use in the PC.
@@DaxtonAnderson What will this channel do next??
@@mommapanda5736 Neptune has always been a bit of an outlier, but Saturn is in play..
Are you ready for the big heat dome this weekend??🌄🌄🌄🌄🌄
The Suzuki Maruti 800 had a 3 cylinder, 800cc engine making ~35hp, and it could hit ~140km/h with 0-100 in just under 21 seconds. Now, the car only weighted like 680kg, but I feel like little cement mixer engine has to be churning out at least 25-30 horsepower with the performance you're getting from the ~870kg Honda Insight.
That's crazy, at 25hp you've right about doubled the original power output.
👍👍👍
Have you considered ditching the TAV and just using the 5 speed? Perhaps a centrifugal clutch with about a 2:1 jackshaft from the clutch to the transmission? You'd have to hit every gear but I feel like you're losing alot of power through that cvt
It aint a cvt
But yeah torque converters probably lose a bit of power
Using both a torque converter and a 5 speed is a little redundant
Just use one of them to reduce parasitic losses
Idk tho
Dude has been working on this forever and probably knows what's good for this car
he mentioned this a while back. the engine isn't made for thrust applications, ans designing a clutch system would be a pain.
@@justsomepandawithinternet actually is not a a torque converter, but it is a cvt
@@dennisford2000
I see
@@justsomepandawithinternet Bro... It's a CVT. It's not a CVT like a Nissan used but it IS a CVT.
Im sure he knows more about the car than I do, but I wanted to ask. He used to be pretty good about answering questions like this, so he might provide a good reason for not. I mostly just wanted to know if he is just married to the CVT shifting itself.
I would speculate thermal expansion or contraction.
Good point here. !!
Are you ready for the big heat dome this weekend??🌄🌄🌄🌄🌄
@@kansasrose2909 It will be like an oven over the lower states!
From working with fans in a professional environment one of the primary failure mechanisms of fans is the molding process leaving the plastic highly locally stressed. The glass fill may also be poorly controlled or too much regrind included for cost saving purposes. Nearly all cheap fans have blades that are poorly molded and can snap off at the most inopportune times, kind of like how an old rotten tree might fall down on a windless day when a storm passed through only a week before. I wouldn't think too much into this as it's a common failure in inexpensive or poorly sourced fans. You probably just thermally shocked it or something of that nature. There's a reason high quality fans cost so much more than the low cost ones. Any quality manufacturer tests the crap out of any fan they source and finds those flaws before it ever makes it to the customer. You don't have that luxury!
Thanks!
@@robotcantina8957 Looking forward to the next build, Robot.
@@mommapanda5736 I have already purchased my breakfast cereal.
Love is in the air💖💖💖💖
@@kansasrose2909 It is happy hour yet??
I would have to guess some internal stresses in the plastic from the casting process, decided they needed to be relieved when the gas reacted with it. You tried reaction again on already broken piece, you would need a control fan to test the reaction properly
I could watch ROBOT CANTINA every day of the week and twice on Sundays.
could you add another crank angle sensor input to the speeduino? Datalog the RPM of the output shaft of the torque converter/CVT. Could be handy for stuff like calculate gear ratios, would be able to see where the belt stops slipping and the gear ratios change and max out, monitor belt slippage or diagnose whatever?
A light bulb just went off in my head. 💥💥💥
@@kansasrose2909 ??? Share
@@Mitchd03 Just wanted to articulate that I feel your comment is well thought out and sounds like
some good engineering. Dataloging the RPM and so forth sounds great for diagnosing. I like to use
emoji, so I put those at the end of my sentence for fun. 🌹🌹
@@kansasrose2909 that ks for the kind words.
Can never have too much data!
Haven't tried with that particular motor but every chance I get with a small engine I just toss the head gasket in favor of copper RTV thinly applied. I check clearance and run high octane fuel. free HP.
You can get old fashioned gas can spouts online, if you're tired of the California approved one that seems determined to spill gas every time you use it and leave its o-ring in your gas tank.
Or get a No Spill gas can. They are a bit pricey, but also the only decent one I have seen for sale these days and it's very easy to use since it's operated by a button instead of some stupid sliding spout mechanism. I'd suggest trying one if you use gas cans with any regularity, it makes life so much easier and is worth every penny.
If you go on the jungle site there are nice gas can spout kits that come with a flexibe nozzle with a scew on cap and a vent that you drill into the can.
Hey man, huge fan here: Was just thinking and I'm sure it's been mentioned but in future videos if you upgrade to the 670cc 22hp HF engine it might be more interesting as well as useful to some people as that might be a legitimate engine swap for certain vehicles, albeit quite underpowered but definitely an option with new engines costing a literal fortune, mechanics shops booked for months ahead of time, and gas being over $5 a gallon-I could see some enterprising poorer folks dropping in a 670cc and just rocking it. Anyway, it just popped into my mind, have a great day and I appreciate all your videos.
It would probably work fine in a subcompact like a Ford Aspire. It only had a 1.3 to start
The 670 is in the works!
So unfortunately I had Life cereal instead of Crunch, but Those fans from Antec CPU coolers are not UV resistant at all, and don't hold up to elements well. Combine that with the gasoline flash-evaporating and the fan would have cooled FAST, and probably fragmented some existing cracks in the injection mold
I love Life cereal.... one of my favs.
@@mommapanda5736 Life cereal, you know Mikey likes it...
@@kansasrose2909 Well, if Mikey likes it, I'm in...
Life cereal seems to be working for you, that answer makes sense.
@@robotcantina8957 Robot, we love this channel.
I would suggest launching in 2nd and skipping 3rd go straight to 4th at the point you see the rev start to climb fast that's where the vct is at full lock.
I could watch ROBOT CANTINA every day of the week
and twice on Sundays.
@@mommapanda5736 💖💖💖
My grand caravan has one of those flex joints between the cat and the manifold. It went and i was quoted $1200 for a new converter, so i decided to see if anyone could just replace the Flex pipe, they quoted me $1500 for that. I bought an aftermarket cat on eBay for $185 and got it installed for $200. (We don't have emissions tests here or I'm not so sure I would pass)
A lot of this is completely unexpected.
@@kansasrose2909 I am re = watching season one just for fun.
@@mommapanda5736 Those garden gnomes are to cute🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️😜😜
@@kansasrose2909 Do they live in Middle Earth with the Hobbits?
Curious to do a mpg with a small twin diesel engine 700cc or so...
This series just gets better and better.
And every new problem just adds to the interest.
If I didn't know better, I'd assume you were conspiring with the garage gnomes to engineer entertaining failures...
Was the fan spinning when the blades broke?
@@Tom-hb4un Love those little gnomes in the garage!🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️😊
I'm wondering what the parasitic loss is through the pulleys and chains before it even gets to the transmission. What are the gear ratios aswell, I'm super curious how it would perform going through the transmission without all the other pulleys and belts.
Also having only 3 slugs in the clutch engaging first until the lighter weight ones (which have been proven to slip) is just like hiring 3 good employees to pick up the slack from the other 6 who don't "pull thier weight".
If the dyno is what I think it is the ppwer goes down as rpms go up so utilising that lower power might be more useful than doing eh what top fuel dragster do which is floor the gas and progressively slip the clutch the whole way (hence they need to be replaced all the time).
Do the gnomes live in Middle Earth like the Hobbits do??
@@kansasrose2909 Same neighborhood, but different zip code.
What was the temperature of the gas? Might want to use a filler hose ? Plus there could be impurities in your plastics from the jungle sites supplier (aka China).
Are you ready for the thermal heat dome this weekend??
The sound it makes when u let off and shift then give her the beams after sounds so good
I noticed that also,.
@@kansasrose2909 I like a good cup of coffee in the morning.
You can shave the clutch weights to make up different combinations. What you want is to have the engine held at peak rpm/ hp and while Im not sure where that is on your engine I think your close.
Secondary should just control up shift and back shift. This can be done with heavier or lighter springs as well as spring wrap or twist and different helix angles, straight or compound angles.
Not sure what if any of those secondary parts are available for your particular model secondary though.
A lot of this completely unexpected...
@@kansasrose2909 I am looking forward to more videos here.
It is like a love fest, the JIMBO fan club here.
@@mommapanda5736 Love is in the air..💖💖💖💖
All I need to know is. Do you run it through the Honda clutch too? Or do you just speed match shift the 5 speed.
Because I want to build one.
You'll need to install a oil catch can/ engine breathe. You probably need even stiffer valve springs.