looking forward to seeing the supercharger engaged... For the summer , a simple beach cooler packed with ice and Pc fans might help with the AC situation.
to be honest...jerry-rigging a small window air conditioner and an inverter should do the trick...no more than 1 and a half horses needed for that at most...
You could "automate" the alternator cutoff by making it a button mounted on the floor under the gas pedal - If you're accelerating normally, alternator stays on, floor it and it cuts off the alternator.
Excellent Vid! I was using the alternator switch idea 30 years ago in my boy racer days. Mostly nights actually and I knew the alternator was a load when every bit of HP counted. I upgraded the regular Switch to a Vacuum switch so I didn't have to remember it in the heat of battle or to turn it back on later... which may have been more important going on experience. The vac held the switch on and when floored, there was no vac so the switch disconnected and everything shut off. Let off the throttle and it all kicked in again. Worked well. Way I had it the thing would disable the alternator, the AC and cabin blower and the engine cooling fan. Hey, I was going fast so plenty of air through the radiator till I slowed down and let off the throttle. Alternators as you said are inefficient, very much so on cars, so the power saved electrically was much more at the crankshaft. The vac switch was good for when you just wanted to go up a hill or burn someone off spur of the moment. A brake light switch on the throttle could also be used with a DPDT relay in your application. When the throttle is up at idle the alt is active and when you mash the pedal the alt drops out through the DPDT relay. I use that setup on the water injection on my 4WD. Those little permanent magnet alternators are also found on my smaller Kubota diesels as well. This was a great Vid and I certainly hope you do more. I knew all this but it was still very entertaining as per usual and typically well presented. I'm sure a lot of people did learn from it and will in other similar vids which I look forward to seeing.
Looks like you brought some Michigan with you after moving (weather). It's been the same here in Michigan. Michigan never gets the memo on spring. It's just that turbulent chaotic battle between winter and spring until summer just steps in and sends them both off. Anyways, always impressed by your vast and wide knowledge of electronics. This was a great video, and extremely well explained. I don't have nearly your expertise in electronics, and yet it was very easy to follow along/understand it. I liked that you showed the demo on the dyno of what would happen with a car alternator instead. Seems like you definitely made the right call on alternator choice. Feels somewhat ironic that it needs such a careful choice of alternator, given that while this one was a cement mixer engine, they're also in the same vain as those used as generators for houses.
This was fun! I like this kind of content, and the techy stuff is why I subbed to you. It's also a bonus that the techy stuff leads to answers to questions no one asked, the entire premise behind the car. It's a chaotic masterpiece.
I love that your DIY car has the same alternator issue as my 2006 Toyota Matrix 😂 My alternator has 3 stator magnets in it, 1 of them died so it doesn't charge at idle anymore. Been going over a year like this and have a spare alternator in the hatch waiting for the day it dies altogether 😂 I'm just careful not to idle under 900rpm for more than a few minutes. Starting up is always 1200-2000rpm so I can idle it while it warms up no problem!
Awesome the adjustable bolt with an eyelet is just the idea I need to complete this same set up I'm making using a Ford alternator with an A belt and a 3 predator motor. I am putting a 2 horse required 2 cylinder compressor on the other side. 12Volts and air at the pull of a cord.
Thanks for the bonus video, I now have an understanding of alternators used on small engines. This is good information for that Predator V-Twin powered track-T that I will NEVER build.
That alternator cheater switch reminds me of something I used to have on my old underpowered street racing type Hondas. I would have the AC compressor clutch and alternator field run through relays and to a button that I installed on my gear shifter. That way I could push the button when I needed max lame acceleration. Good times
You should research old Delco Generator/Starter on small engines, basic and still available. Generator self exicites does not draw the engine down as the v cutoff opens , and you can adjust voltage and current. No rectifier and you delete ,or redundant system the starter
Jimbo, I know you say you don't want to use an automotive alternator, that's cool. If the biggest sticking point is literally wanting the ability to turn it off during power runs I believe that the "idiot light" is actually used to excite the alternator into working. Older alternators like that would often not charge the battery if the alternator warning light had blown (particularly older Mitsubishi's). If you fit a DPST (or DPDT) switch and use that to break the connection to both pins 1 and 2 (idiot light and ignition switch) that should hopefully let you turn the alternator off. I imagine this would be a fairly simple test and may open up avenues for you later :)
suggestion one thing you could try ... mount the alt to run off the drive axle or wheel ? it robs less hp. drive time vrs charge time it will do its job ?
I may be mistaken, but the permanent magnets mean this unit is a DYNAMO. (not an alternator) Dynamo's are well known for reliability because there are no 'brushes' ....as long as the regulator is robust.
@@erik_dk842 Actually, smaller-older motorcycles also used a brushless dynamo. My old 1960s Yamaha went one step further by using the dynamo as a STARTER too.
@@brucepeebles4939 If there are no brushes, they can only produce AC. The distinction wasn't clear back then. I know dynastarters, both they are actually alterstarters. In USA, they got it backassawkward, so they call dynamo's, which rectify the generated AC internally to DC by a segmented commutator, generators.
This video was really helpful for me. I’m running a Diesel engine in a lawn mower and it has no electrical components at all so it doesn’t charge a battery on its own.
It'd be very interesting to see an alternator used on a go kart to power a motor connected to the wheels, similar to how diesel-electric transmissions work in a locomotive!
Mr. Cantina, You made my day by recognizing my comment in to a video clip. Got to keep those headlights on so you can be road legal you know... Lol. I'm going to send you a little gift for this recognition. Love this bonus video. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for explaining why the coil does not generate enough energy on it's own to run everything. I was curious about that since the beginning of the build. It also explains why the headlights in my lawn mower stink!! Thanks for all the great content Jimbo. I'm going through the back catalog now 🙂
On my moped, I set up a battery to run the lights which charges from a full bridge rectifier on the existing lighting coil. I disconnected the frame ground of the coil, so I could put each side of the coil to the two AC pins of the rectifier respectively. And since the coil isn't grounded, hooking up the negative pin to the DC circuit didn't cause any shorts. There's still a *bit* of a paradox, as the lights themselves still have frame ground which is shared with the AC points ignition system, but it doesn't drain the battery overnight and hasn't blown anything up yet, so I'm calling it good. I *do* occasionally have to top up the battery, as the single coil isn't really enough to keep it charged, though.
Ooohhh yessir. I love the off-topic, yet totally related, videos. Very entertaining edits to your content, and a great amount of knowledge serving. I had a good time 👍🏻
I once built a Amish battery charger from a old 8hp Briggs with a 140A GM alternator and it would make that Briggs work under a full load keeping 2 4D Diesel batteries charged while running a 2000W backup inverter.
Like the video. Yes, that GM alternator will rob almost 3hp at wide open throttle. Permanent magnet is the most efficient since you eliminate the 0.4-0.5 amp current needed for excitation. A wind power generator, rewound to generate power at a lower rpm could be an option. Most have permanent magnets, but are too pricey right now to consider as an option. 👍
@@mommapanda5736 I've been here since episode one of the 212 and I'm still just waiting to see what that 670 is going to do! I'm enjoying the trip but I'm excited to see if a built 670 will meet or exceed original performance! Then there is the duromax 999.....
90s fords have a internal regulation alternator the 3g series. Very simple and 25$ at the upull yard. 3 wire hookup green/ red stripe is keyed hot input yellow/white is voltage sensing hook this to main output.
20A diode costs $0.05 and a 2A ajustable DC-DC converter set to 13.8V costs $1. That will charge your bat from the internal coils but not overcharge it.
Just want to say your diagram for the wiring on the GM style alternator was helpful! I've been screwing around trying to figure out how to wire up the alternator for my pickup truck because all the wiring was cut and that answered my question!
I wonder if the charging needs could be achieved by regenerative braking when your foot is off the throttle by running a GM alternator off the transmission output of the car. Using the car's mass to store kinetic energy that you only harvest when not accelerating.
The John Deere alternator would be better for this scheme. As mentioned toward the end of the video, the GM alternator can't be turned off once excited. The JD can, however. If the JD alternator was coupled to the driveshaft and the excitation switch piggybacked to the stoplight switch on the brake pedal, you might have a chance of recovering some of that energy as electricity.
Your "GY6" Honda style regulator didn´t work because of the grounded coils. There are 2 styles of Honda regulators, full and half wave. Half wave regulators are used on older bikes or bikes without electric start, there are 2 coils (or a coil with 2 taps) that are grounded. One gets rectified through a single diode and charges the battery with the positive pulses, and the other one gets regulated to ~14v AC to power the headlight by shorting the half waves to ground with a triac when the voltage gets too high. Full wave regulators are used with bikes with electric start (as they need more power). There is a single coil (or many coils but only 2 wires come out) and it's not grounded. It gets rectified and regulated to charge the battery and everything runs off 12v DC. Both regulators can be 4 wires (2ac, ground and +) but the ones with 5 wires are allways full wave (extra +ign to eliminate quiescent current when the bike isn't running) To use the GY6 regulator you need to unground the coil and run another wire. Also I don't know if you can just parallel/series the coils like that as you can have problems with saturation (if you series them) or them being out of phase and cancelling their voltage. If you do this you should easily double the power.
Thank you for this info. I’m currently trying to run a 4 wire “gy6” for my Honda gx390 with oem charging coil (only one coil). Before I just ran it into an old Honda 2 pin rectifier, wire off the coil going in, and wire going out (of the rectifier) to the battery. This worked fine but was unregulated so it was bringing my battery as high as 16 volts with extended run time. I got rid of that rectifier and tried to wire in this 4 wire rectifier/regulator but since my coil only has one wire I figured this wouldn’t work. I tried anyway by only utilizing 3 of the four wires on the gy6 regulator and.. it SEEMS to be working? But maybe my system just pulls such small load that my battery hasn’t lost any charge yet. I run an electric start, and led headlight and tail light, that’s it. What are your thoughts on this? You’re saying to work properly my coil needs to be ungrounded? If so, I don’t think that will be possible for my application.
@@dsxfab3747 To run with a grounded coil you need a half wave regulator. I think you need to connect the coil wire to both AC inputs (top right annd bottom left), top left to battery + and bottom right to ground. If you need more power you can use a full wave regulator, you need to unground the coil either by cutting the grounding wire in the coil and soldering a wire, or by using plastic washers on each side and a plastic tube for the screw. Full wave regulators often have fins on the sides and top, while half wave ones have fins only on top and are a bit smaller. You can search for mopedarmy wiki for more info
@@nirodper thank you for the reply! For now, because its the simplest potential fix, I’ll try connecting both wires to my ac input and see if that changes anything. 👍
@@dsxfab3747 you can search in images for full wave moped regulator and half wave moped regulator and see what I was telling about the half ones having less fins, so you can determine what type yours is. You can also test for continuity with a multimeter. Glad to help
@@nirodper yeah, I really need to buy another multimeter. I actually broke mine right as I was going to test this set up. I dropped a wrench right on the screen so I’m sure it’s still working, I just have no idea what it’s trying to tell me 😂
Thanks for another enjoyable video! I don’t think it was off-topic at all - power generation and the mitigation of power loss through belt driven accessories are both big factors in maximizing performance. That big Delco alternator will suck 5-6 horsepower all by itself (and maybe more, depending on frictional losses through the drive), so the John Deere unit seems like a wise move. Well done!
Great educational and entertaining videos. Anyone who has engineered any project would appreciate your work. I’m not sure if if it’s doable but you could try to incorporate a electric clutch like on a A/C compressor to turn off the generator to get maximum power. Not sure if it would be worth the hp gain. I know permanent magnet generators take some energy to turn even when not drawing power off them but I don’t know how much.
If you're used to GM stuff surely you're as much of a fan of the AD244 alternators as I am... cheap at the junkyard and capable of nearly 200DCa when cold!
Interesting been gathering parts for my repowered 2n Ford project 🤔 be nice to run lights use starter was going to just plug it into a trickle charger but this is a nice idea
The car alternator still the best option for your application. The JD alternator with permanent magnets have drag 24/7 no matter what, but the car alternator just disconnect the regulator output to the brushes for the rotor, almost 0 drag, they spin effortless without an energized rotor
Going on record to say the cutoff switch will show no measurable performance improvement: Even at full load, the micro-nator can only put out your 20A x 12v = 240w. With 746 watts per HP, its gonna draw 0.32171581769437 hp. That's 1/3 horsepower for people that hate decimals, and God bless em.
You also need to factor in the alternator efficiency. The power it takes to generate 746 watts is more than 1 HP because the alternator is not 100% efficient in converting the mechanical energy to electrical energy. If you listen to the engine when I switch off the alternator there is a noticeable change in the engine sound.
That was fun... Took me back to the good ol' days, seeing your oscilloscope from the... 90s? I remember our teacher brought out one from the 70s or 80s to show us HIS 'good ol' days.' Probably had vacuum tubes.
Jimbo OF ROBOT CANTINA not only implements but also effectuates what is shown to work... 🚀🚀 but then again he is a robot not a rocket scientist... I look forward to more designs.. If only Jimbo would show us the blueprints... 🤓🤓
Have you thought about a Solarpanel on the Roof of the Car? Since you only drive it in good Weather anyways. And its free Energy without loosing Engine Power. And with enough Energy you could turn an Generator into a Motor and have like an F1 ERS System for Acceleration. A 100W Panel Generates ~8 Amps
This is automotive fun, energy harvesting is not automotive.This generator is single phase, so there is no way to use it as motor without rewiring internal connections
@@poprawa well of course but you can turn any "Regular" Car Generator into a Motor helping with acceleration and i think this would be a fun automotive experiment
With a full bridge rectifier, you are taking advantage of the full AC wave from the generator. With two diodes, you are only rectifying half of the sine wave and thus, using only 50% of the power that is being generated.
Interesting parallel video! My first thought was: the alternator will rob a few hp out of a low power engine. Switching it on and off solves that problem, but you're still adding some drag from the magnets and the belt (not much, but if you have the time, you could perhaps measure it by removing the belt). As for the internal coils, you could also detach and rewire the grounded end, to have full wave rectification, but it probably is enough for trickle charge and would be unnecessary extra work - unnecessary extra work is my specialty :-)
Pretty neat little charging system, I thought of using a 2CV Ducellier alternator myself (about 40 Amps output), 'til I broke the windings on the one I bought cos it needed new bearings, and the pulley nut is tighter than a yorkshireman's grip on his wallet, and, well, I did a dumb... :P
What if you can use alternator as a motor to further increase the power . It may need extra batteries and proper charging system but it can definitely work. Nice video .The rectifier explanation helped me a lot.
Maybe you could stick alternators in the wheels and wire them to activate when you apply the brakes; regenerative braking! A solar panel could help too.
This really isn't an alternator. It's actually a generator. I've used a 55A alternator on a 12hp briggs and stratton. I've had no problem at idle, especially since the load is pretty small once the battery is at 14V. With the speeduino idle control I don't think you would have stalling issues at idle.
Of course you can connect ground to the rectifier, with the charging coils. But not if the other side of the coils are also connected to ground! And that is probably standard so would require a modification.
Hey Jimbo, The ribbed belt to the supercharger would be cool to run past a large hyundai sonata belted hybrid starter generator, you could use that as both a starter to start, a hybrid motor to get crazy 0-60 times and also to charge the battery! That system gets a lot bigger and complicated but it would be real neat! The other thing is, its a lot more efficient than a normal alternator because its designed to also motor very efficiently.
That secret switch on the control wire of the regulator is something I been using on my yard kart with a Honda GX390 that has a 5255 (60amp) ford alternator and 8224 lawn mower battery on it. At an idle It’s enough to start a big block Chevy with a dead battery. I turn off the switch for high speed runs. It does about 50mph. That’s pretty quick for an old Murray explorer yard kart.
In this episode: Jimbo builds the world's most complicated space heater.
JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA builds world's most complicated space
heater.... LOVE THAT.... what do you think he should work on next??
When this season started and he said he moved to Kansas I just knew you'd find him lol
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, I think he should do some driving in the pretty prairie of Kansas...
Episode? You mean episobe? ( 0:06 )
@@Giuliana-w1f I think JIMBO just put that in to see if the audience would catch it!🤓
Definitely not off topic. Thanks :)
Bonus videos for the win!
🧙♂️🧙🧙🧙♂️ yes TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
looking forward to seeing the supercharger engaged... For the summer , a simple beach cooler packed with ice and Pc fans might help with the AC situation.
to be honest...jerry-rigging a small window air conditioner and an inverter should do the trick...no more than 1 and a half horses needed for that at most...
That is a really good idea...Kansas can get hot and humid in the summer.. Thinking about the AC situation..👍cool.
@@ocdman202 OCD Man... The old timers used to roll down the windows...
@@mommapanda5736 did you see all of season one of ROBOT CANTINA??
@@ocdman202 🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
This mini-episode helps a LOT on other projects. Thank you for this and the whole series it self
🧙🧙🧙♂️🧙♂️ YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
@@mommapanda5736 💖💖💖💖
Great Video
Thanks!
I can only hear Mehdi from ElectroBoom say "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER" every time you say it.
The 2004 John Deere 790 small 3cylinder diesel came with one. So small thought about putting it on my Ironhead Sportster bike.
Done slipped up at 6:00 and gave the jungle site a name drop.
My favorite "Episobe" yet
You could "automate" the alternator cutoff by making it a button mounted on the floor under the gas pedal - If you're accelerating normally, alternator stays on, floor it and it cuts off the alternator.
We call this a wot switch in the geo world. Wide open throttle. We turn off the air conditioning and alternator.
Im glad You’re back! ☺️
Thank you!! 😊
This is great. I have to stop mid stream. Will revise comment because I have a mouthful of insightful conjecture.
lol
This is a very helpful video for other builders.
Super charger looking good.
Thanks!
Good stuff! I didn't even know those mini alternators existed. Education is fun.
Found on Kubotas as well.
@@glumpy10 Thanks man! I'm writing this stuff down just like I'm back in school and loving it!
@@KentuckyFriedFixes 👍👍👍
Excellent Vid! I was using the alternator switch idea 30 years ago in my boy racer days. Mostly nights actually and I knew the alternator was a load when every bit of HP counted. I upgraded the regular Switch to a Vacuum switch so I didn't have to remember it in the heat of battle or to turn it back on later... which may have been more important going on experience.
The vac held the switch on and when floored, there was no vac so the switch disconnected and everything shut off. Let off the throttle and it all kicked in again. Worked well.
Way I had it the thing would disable the alternator, the AC and cabin blower and the engine cooling fan. Hey, I was going fast so plenty of air through the radiator till I slowed down and let off the throttle. Alternators as you said are inefficient, very much so on cars, so the power saved electrically was much more at the crankshaft.
The vac switch was good for when you just wanted to go up a hill or burn someone off spur of the moment. A brake light switch on the throttle could also be used with a DPDT relay in your application. When the throttle is up at idle the alt is active and when you mash the pedal the alt drops out through the DPDT relay. I use that setup on the water injection on my 4WD.
Those little permanent magnet alternators are also found on my smaller Kubota diesels as well.
This was a great Vid and I certainly hope you do more. I knew all this but it was still very entertaining as per usual and typically well presented. I'm sure a lot of people did learn from it and will in other similar vids which I look forward to seeing.
The vac switch is a great idea!
Any video you make is full of information that i cant begin to understand, but I like feeling like Im learning something.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
@@mommapanda5736 Are we going to see any more gnomes in this series??🤡🤡
@@ocdman202 Well, I hope so...
THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
That is really helpful I was actually looking for miniature alternators earlier in the week for my latest project.
🤓
@@ocdman202 ocd Man === do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I am smart because I watch ROBOT CANTINA....🤓🤓🤓🤓
@@ocdman202 JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA IS THE GENIUS..
Looks like you brought some Michigan with you after moving (weather). It's been the same here in Michigan. Michigan never gets the memo on spring. It's just that turbulent chaotic battle between winter and spring until summer just steps in and sends them both off.
Anyways, always impressed by your vast and wide knowledge of electronics. This was a great video, and extremely well explained. I don't have nearly your expertise in electronics, and yet it was very easy to follow along/understand it. I liked that you showed the demo on the dyno of what would happen with a car alternator instead.
Seems like you definitely made the right call on alternator choice.
Feels somewhat ironic that it needs such a careful choice of alternator, given that while this one was a cement mixer engine, they're also in the same vain as those used as generators for houses.
Thanks! you just help me figure out a good solution to fix my charging problem on my motorcycle
🚴♀🚴♀
@@ocdman202 THUMBS UP TO ROBOT CANTINA!
I want to road-trip to this fun looking place
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD man.. Do you have a comment or
are you just a smart looking guy?
@@mommapanda5736 I am just a smart looking guy🤓
@@ocdman202 Well, I guess that is a good comment..
This series has taught me a lot about electricity, how it works, and gave me ideas for my hillbilly A/C concept in my car. Thanks a lot
Great explanation for the mini alternator. The sneek peeks are great!
I agree😊😊 Hope a video comes out this weekend... Love the sneek peeks. 👍
This was fun! I like this kind of content, and the techy stuff is why I subbed to you. It's also a bonus that the techy stuff leads to answers to questions no one asked, the entire premise behind the car. It's a chaotic masterpiece.
I agree... Chaotic masterpiece is a good description. 🖼🖼 The answers to questions no one asked is how I learn things..🤓
Awesome, thank you!
I love that your DIY car has the same alternator issue as my 2006 Toyota Matrix 😂
My alternator has 3 stator magnets in it, 1 of them died so it doesn't charge at idle anymore. Been going over a year like this and have a spare alternator in the hatch waiting for the day it dies altogether 😂 I'm just careful not to idle under 900rpm for more than a few minutes. Starting up is always 1200-2000rpm so I can idle it while it warms up no problem!
I heartily approve of this type of video
ME TOO!
@@mommapanda5736 Momma Panda... What is it you like about JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA..🚙🚙🚙
do you like it when he goes slightly off topic??😘😘😘
@@ocdman202 I like when he does the bonus videos... JIMBO
OF ROBOT CANTINA reminds me of DOC BROWN OF BACK TO THE
FUTURE...
@@mommapanda5736 JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA reminds me of the professor on Gilligan's Island. 🏝🏝
@@ocdman202 I prefer when he goes slightly off topic..
Awesome the adjustable bolt with an eyelet is just the idea I need to complete this same set up I'm making using a Ford alternator with an A belt and a 3 predator motor. I am putting a 2 horse required 2 cylinder compressor on the other side. 12Volts and air at the pull of a cord.
Thanks for the bonus video, I now have an understanding of alternators used on small engines. This is good information for that Predator V-Twin powered track-T that I will NEVER build.
FANTASTIC bonus video! Thank you!
Agree this is a great bonus video... what would you like to see in future videos??🚙🤓
That alternator cheater switch reminds me of something I used to have on my old underpowered street racing type Hondas. I would have the AC compressor clutch and alternator field run through relays and to a button that I installed on my gear shifter. That way I could push the button when I needed max lame acceleration. Good times
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, I have a comment. 🤓
I used to do half of this manually in my old Peugeot. AC off before overtaking, then on again.
You should research old Delco Generator/Starter on small engines, basic and still available. Generator self exicites does not draw the engine down as the v cutoff opens , and you can adjust voltage and current. No rectifier and you delete ,or redundant system the starter
Jimbo, I know you say you don't want to use an automotive alternator, that's cool. If the biggest sticking point is literally wanting the ability to turn it off during power runs I believe that the "idiot light" is actually used to excite the alternator into working. Older alternators like that would often not charge the battery if the alternator warning light had blown (particularly older Mitsubishi's).
If you fit a DPST (or DPDT) switch and use that to break the connection to both pins 1 and 2 (idiot light and ignition switch) that should hopefully let you turn the alternator off. I imagine this would be a fairly simple test and may open up avenues for you later :)
suggestion one thing you could try ... mount the alt to run off the drive axle or wheel ? it robs less hp. drive time vrs charge time it will do its job ?
Excellent video and good teaching instructions. Thank you for the knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
@@robotcantina8957 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
I may be mistaken, but the permanent magnets mean this unit is a DYNAMO. (not an alternator) Dynamo's are well known for reliability because there are no 'brushes' ....as long as the regulator is robust.
Wrong. Dynamos make DC power without any rectifier. This is a permanet magnet Alternator, producing single phase AC, like smaller/older motorcycles.
@@erik_dk842 Actually, smaller-older motorcycles also used a brushless dynamo. My old 1960s Yamaha went one step further by using the dynamo as a STARTER too.
@@brucepeebles4939 If there are no brushes, they can only produce AC. The distinction wasn't clear back then. I know dynastarters, both they are actually alterstarters. In USA, they got it backassawkward, so they call dynamo's, which rectify the generated AC internally to DC by a segmented commutator, generators.
This video was really helpful for me. I’m running a Diesel engine in a lawn mower and it has no electrical components at all so it doesn’t charge a battery on its own.
It'd be very interesting to see an alternator used on a go kart to power a motor connected to the wheels, similar to how diesel-electric transmissions work in a locomotive!
"I'll put those screws in later, not now"
Hmm, think he knows where they are? Lmao.
Amazing videos, great work!!!
Mr. Cantina,
You made my day by recognizing my comment in to a video clip. Got to keep those headlights on so you can be road legal you know... Lol.
I'm going to send you a little gift for this recognition.
Love this bonus video. Keep up the great work.
LOL, I'll put those bolts in soon....
@@robotcantina8957 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Thank you for explaining why the coil does not generate enough energy on it's own to run everything. I was curious about that since the beginning of the build. It also explains why the headlights in my lawn mower stink!! Thanks for all the great content Jimbo. I'm going through the back catalog now 🙂
I truly, honestly and deeply want to daily a car like this project. I think it would be hilariously fun
🧙🧙♂️🧙♂️YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
On my moped, I set up a battery to run the lights which charges from a full bridge rectifier on the existing lighting coil. I disconnected the frame ground of the coil, so I could put each side of the coil to the two AC pins of the rectifier respectively. And since the coil isn't grounded, hooking up the negative pin to the DC circuit didn't cause any shorts. There's still a *bit* of a paradox, as the lights themselves still have frame ground which is shared with the AC points ignition system, but it doesn't drain the battery overnight and hasn't blown anything up yet, so I'm calling it good.
I *do* occasionally have to top up the battery, as the single coil isn't really enough to keep it charged, though.
🚗🚗🚗🚗🚙🚙🚙🚙🚴🚴🚴
I guess we got a Tech Cantina this time.
Good stuff. ;D 👍
Yes to tech cantina!
Ooohhh yessir. I love the off-topic, yet totally related, videos. Very entertaining edits to your content, and a great amount of knowledge serving. I had a good time 👍🏻
Good info. I will use this knowledge to add some coulombs to my golf cart project. Thank you.
🛺🛺🛺🛺GOLF CARTS.. Wow that gives me an idea ... 😊😊
I once built a Amish battery charger from a old 8hp Briggs with a 140A GM alternator and it would make that Briggs work under a full load keeping 2 4D Diesel batteries charged while running a 2000W backup inverter.
I enjoy your narration. Informative yet humorous.
Like the video. Yes, that GM alternator will rob almost 3hp at wide open throttle. Permanent magnet is the most efficient since you eliminate the 0.4-0.5 amp current needed for excitation. A wind power generator, rewound to generate power at a lower rpm could be an option. Most have permanent magnets, but are too pricey right now to consider as an option. 👍
🧙🧙♂️🧙🧙♂️yes to JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA
@@mommapanda5736 Are we going to see any more gnomes in this series??🌟🌟🌟
@@ocdman202 Well, I hope so..
This was a very useful tech tip for me personally, would welcome more as you make them.
Yes to this comment... I would also welcome more ... what other
tech tips are you looking forward to?
@@mommapanda5736 Momma I would like some tips on how to save money on gas⛽⛽⛽
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN.... I would start walking or riding a bike...
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, Don't even mention the price of gas... 🤣🤣
@@ocdman202 PRICE OF GAS!!!
Thanks for the video. Useful information about sourcing and wiring the miniature alternator.
Yes... this is useful information... What would you like to see in future videos?
@@mommapanda5736 🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are
you just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I am still thinking about wiring the miniature alternator and
the space time vortex... I am a smart looking guy also... 🤓
@@ocdman202 Jimbo of ROBOT CANTINA is a genius...
Super charger ! Can't wait to see it in action! Great job and thank you!
Awesome as always! Keep up the great work Jimbo and the crew!
I agree ...Awesome as always... What would you like to see
in future videos?? Keep up the great work Jimbo..
@@mommapanda5736 I've been here since episode one of the 212 and I'm still just waiting to see what that 670 is going to do! I'm enjoying the trip but I'm excited to see if a built 670 will meet or exceed original performance! Then there is the duromax 999.....
You can get 18A charging coils for the GX390 engine. NR racing sells them part# 31630-ZE2-W01
It also requires the matching flywheel magnet setup.
90s fords have a internal regulation alternator the 3g series. Very simple and 25$ at the upull yard. 3 wire hookup green/ red stripe is keyed hot input yellow/white is voltage sensing hook this to main output.
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@@ocdman202 Man,, Did you watch all ROBOT CANTINA videos yet??
Loving these informal vids mr thanks for your time and patience
Me too! JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA does offer his time
and patience and expertise.
@@mommapanda5736 Momma, did you watch JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA season one??🔧🔧🔧🤓
20A diode costs $0.05 and a 2A ajustable DC-DC converter set to 13.8V costs $1. That will charge your bat from the internal coils but not overcharge it.
Just want to say your diagram for the wiring on the GM style alternator was helpful! I've been screwing around trying to figure out how to wire up the alternator for my pickup truck because all the wiring was cut and that answered my question!
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN.. do you have a comment or are you just
a smart looking man??
@@mommapanda5736 I am a smart looking man....🤓🤓
The alternator switch reminded me of the small motorcycle z125. It cuts the alternator for a little bit if your going WOT for a little extra power
Yes! I love this kinda video. Gives me ideas and shows how much work goes into the stuff for this channel. Thanks Jimbo!
🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I have a comment..🤓
@@ocdman202 Are you making fun of my emoji??
I wonder if the charging needs could be achieved by regenerative braking when your foot is off the throttle by running a GM alternator off the transmission output of the car. Using the car's mass to store kinetic energy that you only harvest when not accelerating.
Could also have a voltage dependent charge during cruise
The John Deere alternator would be better for this scheme. As mentioned toward the end of the video, the GM alternator can't be turned off once excited. The JD can, however. If the JD alternator was coupled to the driveshaft and the excitation switch piggybacked to the stoplight switch on the brake pedal, you might have a chance of recovering some of that energy as electricity.
Your "GY6" Honda style regulator didn´t work because of the grounded coils. There are 2 styles of Honda regulators, full and half wave.
Half wave regulators are used on older bikes or bikes without electric start, there are 2 coils (or a coil with 2 taps) that are grounded. One gets rectified through a single diode and charges the battery with the positive pulses, and the other one gets regulated to ~14v AC to power the headlight by shorting the half waves to ground with a triac when the voltage gets too high.
Full wave regulators are used with bikes with electric start (as they need more power). There is a single coil (or many coils but only 2 wires come out) and it's not grounded. It gets rectified and regulated to charge the battery and everything runs off 12v DC.
Both regulators can be 4 wires (2ac, ground and +) but the ones with 5 wires are allways full wave (extra +ign to eliminate quiescent current when the bike isn't running)
To use the GY6 regulator you need to unground the coil and run another wire. Also I don't know if you can just parallel/series the coils like that as you can have problems with saturation (if you series them) or them being out of phase and cancelling their voltage. If you do this you should easily double the power.
Thank you for this info. I’m currently trying to run a 4 wire “gy6” for my Honda gx390 with oem charging coil (only one coil). Before I just ran it into an old Honda 2 pin rectifier, wire off the coil going in, and wire going out (of the rectifier) to the battery. This worked fine but was unregulated so it was bringing my battery as high as 16 volts with extended run time. I got rid of that rectifier and tried to wire in this 4 wire rectifier/regulator but since my coil only has one wire I figured this wouldn’t work. I tried anyway by only utilizing 3 of the four wires on the gy6 regulator and.. it SEEMS to be working? But maybe my system just pulls such small load that my battery hasn’t lost any charge yet. I run an electric start, and led headlight and tail light, that’s it. What are your thoughts on this? You’re saying to work properly my coil needs to be ungrounded? If so, I don’t think that will be possible for my application.
@@dsxfab3747 To run with a grounded coil you need a half wave regulator. I think you need to connect the coil wire to both AC inputs (top right annd bottom left), top left to battery + and bottom right to ground.
If you need more power you can use a full wave regulator, you need to unground the coil either by cutting the grounding wire in the coil and soldering a wire, or by using plastic washers on each side and a plastic tube for the screw.
Full wave regulators often have fins on the sides and top, while half wave ones have fins only on top and are a bit smaller. You can search for mopedarmy wiki for more info
@@nirodper thank you for the reply! For now, because its the simplest potential fix, I’ll try connecting both wires to my ac input and see if that changes anything. 👍
@@dsxfab3747 you can search in images for full wave moped regulator and half wave moped regulator and see what I was telling about the half ones having less fins, so you can determine what type yours is. You can also test for continuity with a multimeter. Glad to help
@@nirodper yeah, I really need to buy another multimeter. I actually broke mine right as I was going to test this set up. I dropped a wrench right on the screen so I’m sure it’s still working, I just have no idea what it’s trying to tell me 😂
Not off topic at all. 💪💪💪
Thanks for another enjoyable video! I don’t think it was off-topic at all - power generation and the mitigation of power loss through belt driven accessories are both big factors in maximizing performance. That big Delco alternator will suck 5-6 horsepower all by itself (and maybe more, depending on frictional losses through the drive), so the John Deere unit seems like a wise move. Well done!
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
Excellent topic today. I had been wondering about your charging system.👍🏻👍🏻 I really enjoyed this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great educational and entertaining videos. Anyone who has engineered any project would appreciate your work. I’m not sure if if it’s doable but you could try to incorporate a electric clutch like on a A/C compressor to turn off the generator to get maximum power. Not sure if it would be worth the hp gain. I know permanent magnet generators take some energy to turn even when not drawing power off them but I don’t know how much.
If you're used to GM stuff surely you're as much of a fan of the AD244 alternators as I am... cheap at the junkyard and capable of nearly 200DCa when cold!
Interesting been gathering parts for my repowered 2n Ford project 🤔 be nice to run lights use starter was going to just plug it into a trickle charger but this is a nice idea
The car alternator still the best option for your application.
The JD alternator with permanent magnets have drag 24/7 no matter what, but the car alternator just disconnect the regulator output to the brushes for the rotor, almost 0 drag, they spin effortless without an energized rotor
MAN! I AM REALLY ENJOYING YOUR CONTENT! Right up my alley! Thank ya!
Going on record to say the cutoff switch will show no measurable performance improvement: Even at full load, the micro-nator can only put out your 20A x 12v = 240w. With 746 watts per HP, its gonna draw 0.32171581769437 hp. That's 1/3 horsepower for people that hate decimals, and God bless em.
You also need to factor in the alternator efficiency. The power it takes to generate 746 watts is more than 1 HP because the alternator is not 100% efficient in converting the mechanical energy to electrical energy. If you listen to the engine when I switch off the alternator there is a noticeable change in the engine sound.
@@robotcantina8957 indeed, plus the friction of the belt/pulley whirling interface
That was fun... Took me back to the good ol' days, seeing your oscilloscope from the... 90s? I remember our teacher brought out one from the 70s or 80s to show us HIS 'good ol' days.' Probably had vacuum tubes.
I think the scope dates from the mid 80's insanely expensive back in the day, but only a few bucks on craigslist.
Cant wait for that 670. Turbo EFI. But I em equally excited for the 420 supercharger.
Go full circle and create a hybrid cement mixer car...talk about opening up space time vortex that would do it.
🧙🧙♂️🧙♂️YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
This shows the design aspect.........most hobbyists are just implementers.......... Use what's already shown to work.
Jimbo OF ROBOT CANTINA not only implements but also effectuates what is shown to work... 🚀🚀
but then again he is a robot not a rocket scientist... I look forward to more designs.. If only Jimbo
would show us the blueprints... 🤓🤓
@@ocdman202 Blueprints?? I am sure those are top secret!!
Have you thought about a Solarpanel on the Roof of the Car? Since you only drive it in good Weather anyways. And its free Energy without loosing Engine Power. And with enough Energy you could turn an Generator into a Motor and have like an F1 ERS System for Acceleration. A 100W Panel Generates ~8 Amps
This is automotive fun, energy harvesting is not automotive.This generator is single phase, so there is no way to use it as motor without rewiring internal connections
@@poprawa well of course but you can turn any "Regular" Car Generator into a Motor helping with acceleration and i think this would be a fun automotive experiment
Thanks for the technical sidetrack. Keep it up, I might actually learn something.😄
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@@ocdman202 OCD MAN... Do you have a comment or are you
just a smart looking guy??
@@mommapanda5736 I have a comment..🤓
With a full bridge rectifier, you are taking advantage of the full AC wave from the generator. With two diodes, you are only rectifying half of the sine wave and thus, using only 50% of the power that is being generated.
@@ocdman202 OCD MAN, do you have a comment?? what is that
little green thing??
@@mommapanda5736 yes Momma Panda, I do have a comment.. 🚙🚙🚙
İki diyot ile tam dalga DC üretilir. Tek diyot ile yarım dalga DC üretilir.
Interesting parallel video! My first thought was: the alternator will rob a few hp out of a low power engine. Switching it on and off solves that problem, but you're still adding some drag from the magnets and the belt (not much, but if you have the time, you could perhaps measure it by removing the belt). As for the internal coils, you could also detach and rewire the grounded end, to have full wave rectification, but it probably is enough for trickle charge and would be unnecessary extra work - unnecessary extra work is my specialty :-)
Any plans to take the test vehicle to Cars and Coffee in Wichita?
I'm thinking in May I will go to the cars and Coffee in Wichita.
Kudos for the classic Tek scope!
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@@ocdman202 OCD man... Do you like these bonus videos??
Keep it up!
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@@ocdman202 everytime I see that Honda... I think "it's alive"
@@mommapanda5736 Do you mean in the Frankenstein movie where he says "it's alive!" ??
Great work Sir thank you
Great to see progress on the project👍
👍👍👍
@@ocdman202 THUMBS UP TO ROBOT CANTINA!
Pretty neat little charging system, I thought of using a 2CV Ducellier alternator myself (about 40 Amps output), 'til I broke the windings on the one I bought cos it needed new bearings, and the pulley nut is tighter than a yorkshireman's grip on his wallet, and, well, I did a dumb... :P
What if you can use alternator as a motor to further increase the power . It may need extra batteries and proper charging system but it can definitely work. Nice video .The rectifier explanation helped me a lot.
“Oldtimers, weekends, and airplane landings are alike. If you can walk away from them, they’re successful.”
THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Love it, keep the format like this, bonus videos are fine, kisses :*
Thank you! Will do!
☺☺☺
@@ocdman202 THANK YOU JIMBO , for another great video! This video is one of your best!
Maybe you could stick alternators in the wheels and wire them to activate when you apply the brakes; regenerative braking!
A solar panel could help too.
This really isn't an alternator. It's actually a generator. I've used a 55A alternator on a 12hp briggs and stratton. I've had no problem at idle, especially since the load is pretty small once the battery is at 14V. With the speeduino idle control I don't think you would have stalling issues at idle.
He have not installed idle valve of ant sort and this configuration is just fine with idle intervals not being long
Awesome video! This gave me an idea of how to wire up my dt-400 project of 12 volt output :)
I really appreciate you sharing all this wonderful wisdom.
Of course you can connect ground to the rectifier, with the charging coils. But not if the other side of the coils are also connected to ground!
And that is probably standard so would require a modification.
I believe the efficiency is roughly 88-92% either way that ads up to 1.853 HP. Not to bad really.
Hey Jimbo,
The ribbed belt to the supercharger would be cool to run past a large hyundai sonata belted hybrid starter generator, you could use that as both a starter to start, a hybrid motor to get crazy 0-60 times and also to charge the battery!
That system gets a lot bigger and complicated but it would be real neat!
The other thing is, its a lot more efficient than a normal alternator because its designed to also motor very efficiently.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
That secret switch on the control wire of the regulator is something I been using on my yard kart with a Honda GX390 that has a 5255 (60amp) ford alternator and 8224 lawn mower battery on it. At an idle It’s enough to start a big block Chevy with a dead battery. I turn off the switch for high speed runs. It does about 50mph. That’s pretty quick for an old Murray explorer yard kart.
🧙♂️🧙♂️🧙🧙🧙 YES TO JIMBO OF ROBOT CANTINA!
Would love to see how the pulley for the alternator is connected to the torque converter. I have been trying to solve the same problem
Great episobe!!
Yes, great edpisobe you noticed!
@@mommapanda5736 👍👍👍
General rule it takes about 1hp to produce 25 amps at 12 volts. *Edit for trolls* V belt driven alternator application
Basic rule... are you talking about hewlett packard because I can't get any energy out of my computer⌚⌚🤓🤓
@@ocdman202 OCD man... Do you know anything about
electrical engineering??
@@mommapanda5736 YES.... I KNOW JIMBO MUST BE A ROBOT..🚡🚡🚡
I like turtles
You could set a trigger with speedino to turn it off under large loads.