Hey Eric, big fan! You can get the axes square by adjusting the belts of the xy assembly. So if one axis is out of line, adjust the belt on one side of it so that is is perpendicular to the other side and you can check using that tool you printed. Pretty sure that's all you need to do but correct me if I'm wrong.
The alignment tool is also very good at showing how weight of the Ultimaker's dual head can make the belt jump a tooth and an entire strip down isn't necessarily required, sometimes I found just relieving the tension and realigned the carriage with opposing parallel belts, that run on the same stepper motor. I would check the belt alignment, before ripping the whole machine apart, as the acrylic sheets are usually squared enough not to make a difference to the auto levelling bed. The bolts that hold the cabinet together can shift if subjected to hard impacts. Loosening the hex nuts and sitting the cabinet on a flat surface, then re-tighten the bolts, is sometimes all that's needed. I hope this helps. 👍
Hi there! It's good to see you tackle such a job, but I think you should have put out a video describing the problem, asked for help, and awaited some replies for a week or so. You would have saved a lot of time and trouble. I'm a fixer, of almost anything. With a physics and math education and heavy love of science, I love puzzles. Your's is pretty easy and perhaps someone with the same problem can read this and fix their's easier. OK, as someone else suggested correctly, measure each panel across the diagonals to find the problems. Then get some thin metal rods, even straightened wire coat hangers will work. Attach one on one end on those problem diagonals and let the other end hang over the opposite edge with a mark on it where the corner should be. Next, use the tools suggested by the manufacturer on the rails. Next, loosen screws on the housing slightly so the there is some wiggle room in the assembly. Now adjust belts to bring corners back to square while watching the tools and the rods so you know when it is back in shape. Then tighten the screws back up and then test machine.
Hi.... you build the thing then align everything....I have built a load of 3D printers CNC's + other machines ..as an engineer this is the way to do it hope this helps Rog
My first thoughts. There is nothing wrong with the panels, but with the drive axel. The toothed belt haves jumped over some tooth from the gear. Also , to measure the panels you need to measure diagonal from corner to corner. It can be that your triangle is crooked . If you have the panels, why don't you redraw them and laser cut them new?
You can find all the 3D files of the UM3 on the Ultimaker github here : github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3 The front panel is for example this one: github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/1946/1946-J/1946-J.step Top panel : github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/1945/1945-F/1945-F.STEP
Also - Uktimaker updated their print profiles for the most recent Cura…. The print quality is allot better for ultimaker machines (by default) for their supported materials.
Pretty sure the material is Acrylic - I adapted the S5 at work to take unsupported filament through the material station….. it chipped suuuuper easy… PC doesn’t do this when drilled. So my tip is… be very careful if u need to drill the holes out larger
Perfect example of someone who knows just enough to be dangerous. You can just simply adjust the belts to get squareness back. None of this extra stuff is needed.
For parts you cannot replicate from the Open Source files, some (not the panels you wanted) can be purchased here: fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts
Yeah, even if it was just packaged with pressure on the frame, and the package was kept in a hot place at some point during shipping then it cools, boom, your frame is now not square
@@ge2719 Right on, that happens too. Though I would hope that for new products they would have that figured out. Well, Games workshop doesn't though I know that. Seems any large parts they have always need to be warmed and reshaped.
@@Morberis yup, thats part of why i stopped buying gw stuff. every eldar fire prism the prism canons never lined up, the tips always curled out, even bought some forgeworld stuff, and they were always terrible. the total move to plastic and the doubling of prices killed it entirely for me.
The panels except for the sides are Dibond aluminium composite sheets. The top and front are very easy to get out of square in a drop. Had this happen to me as well.
Hey Eric, big fan!
You can get the axes square by adjusting the belts of the xy assembly. So if one axis is out of line, adjust the belt on one side of it so that is is perpendicular to the other side and you can check using that tool you printed. Pretty sure that's all you need to do but correct me if I'm wrong.
Yes that is the first thing that came to my mind also. Just adjust the belts.
Yup, did that of course once the panels were straight
Yeah gantry racking. Had to do it on my Voron multiple times. Every time you play with belt tension or the gantry assembly you have to do it again.
The alignment tool is also very good at showing how weight of the Ultimaker's dual head can make the belt jump a tooth and an entire strip down isn't necessarily required, sometimes I found just relieving the tension and realigned the carriage with opposing parallel belts, that run on the same stepper motor. I would check the belt alignment, before ripping the whole machine apart, as the acrylic sheets are usually squared enough not to make a difference to the auto levelling bed. The bolts that hold the cabinet together can shift if subjected to hard impacts. Loosening the hex nuts and sitting the cabinet on a flat surface, then re-tighten the bolts, is sometimes all that's needed. I hope this helps. 👍
Teaching Tech has a great tutorial on getting dimensional accuracy from your 3D printer also Chep is a good resource. Cheers
As a hockey player, 3d printer enthusiast, and a metal fan I approve of this video!
🤘 rock on! Thanks
same
Hi there! It's good to see you tackle such a job, but I think you should have put out a video describing the problem, asked for help, and awaited some replies for a week or so. You would have saved a lot of time and trouble. I'm a fixer, of almost anything. With a physics and math education and heavy love of science, I love puzzles. Your's is pretty easy and perhaps someone with the same problem can read this and fix their's easier.
OK, as someone else suggested correctly, measure each panel across the diagonals to find the problems. Then get some thin metal rods, even straightened wire coat hangers will work. Attach one on one end on those problem diagonals and let the other end hang over the opposite edge with a mark on it where the corner should be. Next, use the tools suggested by the manufacturer on the rails. Next, loosen screws on the housing slightly so the there is some wiggle room in the assembly. Now adjust belts to bring corners back to square while watching the tools and the rods so you know when it is back in shape. Then tighten the screws back up and then test machine.
I wish you explained how you straightened the panels. I wasn't getting a good sense of that from the sped up video.
Yeah, my bad I basically clamped the panels on a table and rack them by hand a little bit and then check them and made more adjustments
@@EricStrebel Thanks. Good to know. I wouldn't have guessed that that would work.
I would roll with the fine tuning you did, probably better then getting a new factory part.
All good, works well now
Hi.... you build the thing then align everything....I have built a load of 3D printers CNC's + other machines ..as an engineer this is the way to do it hope this helps Rog
Always something to learn when you do that of course
My experience with using 3d printers has always involved fixing them too
Mine has not
My first thoughts.
There is nothing wrong with the panels, but with the drive axel. The toothed belt haves jumped over some tooth from the gear.
Also , to measure the panels you need to measure diagonal from corner to corner. It can be that your triangle is crooked .
If you have the panels, why don't you redraw them and laser cut them new?
You can find all the 3D files of the UM3 on the Ultimaker github here : github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3
The front panel is for example this one: github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/1946/1946-J/1946-J.step
Top panel : github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/1945/1945-F/1945-F.STEP
Oh, that is interesting, I will investigate. Perhaps I could have new ones machined
@@EricStrebel Yes ! It's possible to use aviation grade plywood, for example...
You can contact makers muse he's a good guy and super knowledgeable
Great video. Nice job on the fix. Hope you find new parts...or make your own. #righttorepair Mahalo for sharing! : )
Also - Uktimaker updated their print profiles for the most recent Cura…. The print quality is allot better for ultimaker machines (by default) for their supported materials.
Pretty sure the material is Acrylic - I adapted the S5 at work to take unsupported filament through the material station….. it chipped suuuuper easy… PC doesn’t do this when drilled. So my tip is… be very careful if u need to drill the holes out larger
Perfect example of someone who knows just enough to be dangerous. You can just simply adjust the belts to get squareness back. None of this extra stuff is needed.
This.
for the top part of your printer, you could vaccum-formed a sheet of polycarbonate and make a video. that would be awesome.
For parts you cannot replicate from the Open Source files, some (not the panels you wanted) can be purchased here: fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts
Cool, thanks
Where can I get the file to make those axis setting jigs?
They should be available somewhere on the ultimaker site
I would never expect that from Ultimaker...
Used ultimaker
Yeah, even if it was just packaged with pressure on the frame, and the package was kept in a hot place at some point during shipping then it cools, boom, your frame is now not square
@@ge2719 Right on, that happens too. Though I would hope that for new products they would have that figured out. Well, Games workshop doesn't though I know that. Seems any large parts they have always need to be warmed and reshaped.
@@Morberis yup, thats part of why i stopped buying gw stuff. every eldar fire prism the prism canons never lined up, the tips always curled out, even bought some forgeworld stuff, and they were always terrible.
the total move to plastic and the doubling of prices killed it entirely for me.
The panels except for the sides are Dibond aluminium composite sheets. The top and front are very easy to get out of square in a drop. Had this happen to me as well.
No need to disassemble just adjust the belts, i have an ultimaker 2 + same deal.
Now I know why when I buy a new 3D printer it has more Styrofoam taking up space than the printer itself
Yup
5 Hole
😃🤘
Just buy prusa :p