Thank you for providing a link to the light fixture! I've been looking at replacing some of the fixtures in my house and it is greatly appreciated when you put links to the tools, fixtures or appliances you use.
HI John, I'm glad they help you out. I also installed 4 dimmer switches on these lights and they worked very well smooth dimming and now flickering. That video will be out next week.
5000k to 6000k is when things look normal and shouldn't make anyone sick it is the closest in spectrum to natural daylight the lights around the 3000k mark aren't better but are closer to the output from an incandescent bulb, Personally i hate the yellow light it makes everything seem dull and washed out.
I have 5500k- 6500k led lights all through my house, sheds and sensor lights outside! i think they are amazing and a better color to see things with the human eye, so do my guests 2 when they drop over! Not sickening lol wtf! i think your bum steering ppl with old tech colors from what old bulbs (halogen) color puts out in their color range yr talking about 3000-4200k. Phillips led daylight 6500k replacement bulbs are excellent in houses if anyone is interested and ready to be dazzled with with unmatched visibility clarity.
Hello. So for those who may be wondering about the K rating, it pertains to the light spectrum. When a star burns at a specific temperature it produces a specific color. So for example a 3000 k bulb mimics the color spectrum of a yellow dwarf star (like beatlegeuse). A 6000K bulb puts out light similar to what you would expect from a white dwarf. Daylight from our sun is around 5700K. The temp our sun burns at.
I installed about 30 5k daylight dimmable flush mount lights in my kitchen, dining room and two living rooms. The only thing that made me sick was thinking those rooms were completely clean until I turned the lights all the way up!
I have a 100 year old house with a 60 year old addition. There are two of those old fixtures with globes suspended by plumber's chain. I use LED bulbs in them. This gives me more flexibility and chances to experiment with new technology while retaining light fixtures that add charm.
I always recommend using a traditional light fixture, and using LED bulbs in them. That way your options for fixture styles are endless, and you don't have to worry about unreplaceable LEDs.
@@susanjspaulding Damn near. He's making fun of naysayers, but he's not that far off from the "rules" these days. In particular, depending on the age of the house (about 70-80 years, at this point, I think), the house might have knob and tube wiring, which is much lower capacity and uses bare wires which could arc and cause a fire. Technically, if you're replacing incandescent or fluorescent with LED, you don't have to worry about overloading the wiring, because you're REDUCING the load, but the rules are, if you even suspect knob-and-tube, you're required to replace it all. Also, people watch RUclips from everywhere, but California is orders of magnitude more draconian than the rest of the country when it comes to this stuff.
Hey man, I’m 20 years old, just finished up my first handyman job! Took too long and I charged too little but I learned so much. Thanks for all your tips and tricks and help getting started!
It happens with everyone- takes longer than expected, and pays less than expected. But you learn as you go. I highly recommend to watch all of this guy's videos, they're awesome and you'll learn a lot.
Robert Kattner: The going rate for anything depends entirely on your location. I promise you, NO handyman (for that matter, not even an electrical contractor) is gonna get $95/hr where I'm at.
I agree. Screw someone else's opinion on what's in style . Everyone is painting all their kitchen cabinets too, and while that may look fine, i prefer my maple woodgrain cabinets just fine.
First off, I'm an old phart. Mood lighting no longer applies to me. I just finished replacing the last old light mounting in my condo today with and led light similar to the one you showed. What a difference! My two upstairs bedrooms are now bright as daylight and I no longer have to squint to find things. One bedroom had a ceiling fan which I took down. It was screwed into the beams of the ceiling!
I swithed back to candles, more romantic and do not need electricity. Make shure that you have a good candle holder, heavy with wide base, and do NOT leave them burning when you are not in the same room!
Purple wire nuts are specifically designed to connect copper wires to aluminum wires. They have an almost closed bottom and are filled with a compound to prevent oxidation of the aluminum wire so the conductivity of the connection does not degrade over time.
K does stand for kelvin. Kelvin is a temperature rating used for incandescent lamps. So the Kelvin scale is used to describe color. The higher the number the more white it is. The lower the number the more yellow/orange it is. With LEDs it is also important to note the lumens. Lumens will tell you the light output or how bright it will be. Hope this helps
I updated all of my house fixtures too. I put 23 of them into the house. Same ones as you show them and I bought them at Costco for $25 a piece. Work great.
Fixture finishes change from year to year. Oil rubbed bronze was popular 10 years ago and now it's back. I like my brushed nickel. I also don't like mixing metals but that's just me.
Any time the establishment pushes something on the populace , the lie is, that "it is for your benefit and convenience". The reality is their agenda for population sterilization , control,and genocide. Led lights are harmful to your body, brain , and eyes. And they work in union with the smart meters. Don't believe me? I challenge a study off.. see what you come up with ? And good luck finding any of the old school bulbs, they're being phased out of availability as we speak
Our house was built in 1925, and ya we still have some knob and tube wiring in the ceiling. All the outlets have been changed out--but not all the ceiling wiring.
I liked that old fixture. The house I grew up in had them in both bedrooms. The place was built, in 1919, so that fixture could very well be old, there!!
When I run into ancient wire I put white and black shrink wrap on it for ID and the stuff gets brittle and crumbles eventually so it helps keep the pixies in.
When I researched, I just got light fixtures that took Edison style bulbs. In those fixtures I put LED Bulbs. LEDs do fail, I rather change a LED bulb than take down the whole fixture and rewire a new one.
I had to replace a driver in a commercial fixture. The building was about 4 years old. The fixture was a 2’x4’ troffer in a drop ceiling. It had a pair of LED panels in it. Cool fixture and it put out a nice diffuse light pattern. But when the driver failed, it would blink on and off about twice per second. The driver was not available locally, but the lighting supplier was able to order one in. Took about a week to get it.
I first bought 3M LED lightbulbs at $25 a piece. They didn't last very long, although we had them on all the time. Wal-Mart brand Great Value have been pretty good..
Handyman, you are so right about those GFI outlets!!!! My sump pump was on the same circuit as the outlet and because the outlet tripped my basement was flooded after heavy rain!!!! At least nothing valuable was ruined.
For me, the sweet spot is around 4000K. Unfortunately, the big box store usually only has 2700 K and 5000K which means it’s either way too orange or way too white.
I have been updating my fixtures with LED bulbs. I make sure they are rated at 5000k. We love them. They are brighter and produce the light we prefer. They don't make us sick, so I don't know what you are talking about.
The only thing about LED bulbs that made me sick was that not everything in my bathroom was a clean as I thought it was. I was using CFL's before which cast a tint on everything, and hid a lot. With brighter LEDs you can see every nook and cranny.
I always cut the wire as close to the fixture as I can taking the old one down. I then wire nut on a pigtail using new wire and stuff the old wire, which I hopefully didn't disturb back into the box. I swear that electricians years ago tried to use the shortest pigtails and often not only used wire nuts but also soldered the wires. That old wire and tape can get brittle but it'll last another century as long as it isn't disturbed.
After having switched from living for years in yellow I would never go back. The daylight color makes my house more vibrant, allows me to see what my cloths actually look like, and reduces winter depression. I would recommend to everyone to be between 5,500 - 6,500 for their light color.
I've been using high Kelvin number bulbs (5500 to 6500) in all my fixtures for the past several years. No more wintertime blues in this household. The higher numbers are closer to daylight and your eyes use the light to produce vitamins your body needs.
Nothing wrong with brushed nickle. Gold is actually in style now. It changes every 10 years. Put what you like. We’re doing a lot of rubber bronze cause it doesn’t clash with the brass fixtures that we choose to leave.
CRI is the important figure when determining how accurate the kelvin measurement is. This is one of those rare moments when filmmaking and DIY carry over: you will notice that your camera also has a kelvin setting in the white balance (5600k being daylight, 3200k being tungsten) and the best film-making lights have a CRI of 95 or above where accuracy is important for the digital sensors. Unfortunately most manufacturers don't list or use accurate CRI in the residential lighting world.
I bought my house about 6 years ago, and almost all its recessed lighting had been retrofitted with LED lights. They had formerly taken incandescent floods, but the replacement LEDs came complete with the bezel and were a connected by a dongle you could just screw into the light socket; they clipped right into the canister. In 6 years I had a single one burn out on me about a month ago. The original model was no longer available, but an identical replacement down to bezel design was at Home Depot for about a third of what the original had cost. I guess that light temperatures varied enough that the replacement fixture's was adjustable. I just had to set the switch until it looked the same as the existing lights. I'm not that interested in your mission loadout, but I'll give it a like anyway to help out those who are.
LED's do burn out. Our home was built and finished in the fall of 2016, all recessed light fixtures are LED's. As of December 2020, I've replaced 4 of them.
Nice installation, but I would say minimum 4000K for light in the ceiling, between 4000 - 5000K is the best, but I guess majority of people want that "light bulb temperature". I want WHITE and it's so hard to find. Either it is too yellow (2700-3000k) or it is too blue (6000K)
I'm a contractor also who's bread and butter is light electrical work such as this. Thanks for the info on the light tones with LED fixtures.Its very very helpful
I have that same fixture in my and NO ONE has gotten sick from it. LED lighting DOES NOT cause sickness. Lack of natural lighting WILL cause depression over time. You can get a natural light that will fix that problem. A light that is not on that much such as a bathroom light IS NOT going to hurt you in any way.
might I suggest that the K rating for the light is for the LED itself, but the variation that you are noting is caused instead by the glass or plastic that is used to soften the light, even the paint used inside the light will have a large effect on the perceived colour of the light. BTW, love that screwdriver you were using., thanks for the link to it in your description.
Where was your equipment grounding conductor in this installation? From what I could make out in the video, I couldn’t see a connection to that conductor. If you had an ungrounded wiring method (e.g. old non-metallic cable without ground), then a fixture requiring that connection can’t be installed. My hunch would be the wiring method was armored cable (or what we call BX in the electrical trade). If so, a connection should’ve been made to the outlet box via a ground screw in a threaded opening.
These big circular white LED lights are hugely popular in Japan. They have even bigger ones than that. I have relatives who own a house built near the time of the Civil War and they found a note dated 1867 in one of the walls.
I’m gonna say what many others have said. Use good old regular fixtures with LED bulbs. ESPECIALLY for outdoor security floods. The new built-in LED ones are a massive pain to install, not user friendly to install and throwing away the whole fixture when they fail costs too much. Again, for the outside floods on photo-cell and/or motion sensor use the good old tried and true fixtures with LED bulbs.
@3:09 i use a 6.5k light out of laziness of not having to swap bulbs for photography/video set usage and everyday use. im kinda used to it now but when anyone comes in, it practically blinds them
I had this playing at half speed on accident - thought you were just acting drunk with the sun glasses since you always fast forward through some segments. I didnt realize my settings were changed. Man - That was too funny.
You are correct, "K" stands for "Kelvin". 5600K approximates "daylight". 3200K approximates Tungsten bulbs, just for reference (despite what that chart says). If you buy a light for video or film, the color temperature ratings are very important for color matching, and manufacturers are held to a higher standard. When you buy residential fixtures, the standards are lower, thus, the variation from fixture to fixture... :)
The service panel in that house is most likely a split-bus design. Code has always had the exception that you may have up to six disconnects to turn off a service. To save money by eliminating a main disconnect, one of the six disconnects shuts off any/all circuits that are not one of the six main disconnects. Then the other five disconnects are used for larger loads like Range, Dryer, A/C, etc. Split-bus panels remained popular even through the seventies.
You wanted to know the age of that fixture, its 1941. The lamp is from the JC Virden catalog. I have three of them in my livingroom. The globes came in Blue, White, Peach & Pink. If you want more light and LED, then use CREE led bulbs. Choose the Kelvin and the equivalent wattage you want. I chose to duplicate the original light bulbs, with a CREE 2700K @ 40 watt equivalent LED. I use them as accent lights. I bet you trashed the light. The fixtures go for about $35 - 50 and the glass goes for $50-75 on Ebay. That's about what I paid for two matching Peach colored globes with new repo bases to match the original single fixture.
In a knob and tube wired house, the neutral conductors are used as switch legs... When I am doing a whole house makeover, I reverse the neutral and current carrying conductor in the panel, and indicate that with colored shrinkable tubing, using a different color for each new current carrying conductor and white on the new neutrals. Then do the same fix at each device / fixture. At the first outlet on each circuit, the NEC allows you convert 2 prong outlet to 3 prong (without a ground / non-current carrying conductor) if you install a GFCI outlet. When you need to shut off a circuit, the color code will make this task easier...
All of my led lights are 5k installed them in my mother’s home grandmothers house and great uncles home we all love the bright white light they give off I’m calling BS
There are many other factors to consider when choosing a LED fixture besides CCT (°Kelvin temerature). Not all LEDs are created equally. Some run at 70 lumens per watt and others run at 200 lumens per watt. Generally, a LED that runs at 200 lumens per watt will last longer because they run cooler. But if a manufacturer decides to run them at maximum wattage then they will die sooner. It is similar to driving a car at 100 mph all the time compared to running it at 40 mph all the time. The best way to design a LED light for longevity is to use extremely efficient LEDs and under drive them. Then use a well designed power supplied to drive the LEDs. It is not difficult to design an LED fixture to last5 or 6 years and then die. The MTBF (mean time before failure) is well known for most components going into the fixture. Most LED light failures are caused by poorly designed power supplies. The use of cheap capacitors in the power supply leads to short lifetimes. Poor heat management is another major cause of LED failure.
Hey John, Surfing the home improvement channels I came across your video. Your presentation is awesome. After doing some research on the matter I decided to buy two 18" GetInLight LED ceiling light fixtures (30W, 3000K) for my 12' by 22' kitchen with a 9'+ ceiling. They replaced two circa 1980 triple incandescent bulb fixtures and are controlled by a normal dimmer. What a great upgrade. The 60W LED fixtures emits more light than the previous 360W configuration. Not to mention no more ladder climbing to replace burnt-out bulbs. BTW a standard #2 Phillips screwdriver works fine for me. Regards.
Great video. I like changing out the old fixtures with LED slim lights maybe 12" or 15". Amazon has one that I like made by BLNAN which has a remote for changing the light color and the intensity plus some other cool features. Good for 30,000 hours.
Question about the "LED Lights will make you sick".. When you said "6,000K and you're going to want to throw up", is that what you were referring to by LEDs making you "sick"? Follow up, your chart shows 6,000K and above as daylight. Do you get sick often when going outside? Just curious if I'm missing something here. Thanks.
Agree 3000k temp does look nice for housing. Office 4000k is preferred as the white makes working a lot easer. 5000k Way to high, maybe for external security lighting?
Although they are not as easy to find as they used to be, 2700K is the closest to "warm white", but most people cannot really differentiate between 3000K and 2700K. Side by side, it is a noticeable difference, and mixing and matching brands in a fixture will make it look a little "off". "Bright white" bulbs are generally considered 4000K or 5000K depending on the manufacturer. "Daylight" bulbs are somewhere around 5500-6000K, and "cool white" are 6000+K. As for where this whole Kelvin scale comes from, basically when things get really frigging hot, like the sun, they start glowing. The sun glows at 5780K in space and 5900K in the ionosphere, give or take on the brightness depending on how many sun-spots or cold spots there are at any given time. Natural day light is near 6000K due to Raleigh scattering in the atmosphere, specifically with oxygen molecules and the dipole of of water molecules. It often seems counter-intuitive that a lower kelvin temperature is associated with a warmer light. The reason for this is the origins of how light was perceived before all the science got involved. Red is closest to infrared light, which is non-visible and at a lower energy than visible light. Infrared light deposits a lot of energy deep into the skin so it actually feels warmer. Things like fire give off a lot of radiant heat in the infrared spectrum with that warm glow we all know and love when it's really cold outside. Ultraviolet light on the other hand is higher energy than visible light and doesn't really deposit much energy deep into the skin, but it will fry the top layer (sunburn!). Ultraviolet light won't really raise the skin temperature even though it is depositing energy. For a comparison of being outside, or at least looking outside, When everything is covered with snow, and the sun's 6000K is being reflected back at 6000K due to all the white reflectors (snow), it looks cold out but the fire place has that nice warm glow even though the fire is actually only about 1380K and the sun is 5780K.
I hang around until the end of your videos. But mostly because you’re an amusing SOB. I do like that you and your wife are hard working folks though. Btw aluminum to copper connection
I changed all my lights some years back once you could get led in the warmer range under 3500k. I never did get this obsetion with 5000+ k range. Its all the go though. Everyone seems to like the colder whiter lights.
Electrical engineer/specifier here. I don't know where to start, so I'll address the brand of fixture. It's not a reputable manufacturer. Since LED's are the new thing, a lot of fly by night makers have come on the scene. Many of these companies buy cheap LED drivers and light engines from Asia and slap them in a housing. This creates 2 problems: 1.) Since they are cheap, they are not as energy efficient as other LED fixtures and they tend to burn out quickly, even before their stated warranty (if the company is gone in 4 years, then what?) 2.) They aren't designed for optimal light output. Other LED fixtures with purpose built light engines take into consideration the way the light is distributed and optimizes its pattern. What is a reputable brand name? Acuity Brands (Juno, Lithonia, etc) is a good place to start. They have residential fixtures and have been making fixtures, including for the commerical market, for decades and know what they're doing. Second, dimming. Again, with cheaper brands "dimmable" is a buzz word. A lot of times the LEDs flicker or have a terrible dim curve (just barely dims until you get near the lowest setting, then the light output plummets). Even the reputable guys don't have a perfect dimmable LED for phase dimming (the kind you get with a line voltage dimmer). If you REALLY want to be able to dim LED lights (like in a TV room), you want to go 0-10V. It requires special dimmers, extra wiring and commercial grade fixtures, but if dimming is a must have, it's worth the expense. Finally, the color temp. (Side note, no one in the trade says "Kelvins" we simply say "kay".) The color scale is actually based on incadescence, despite the fact the industry is moving away from it. It's basically the color a filament of tungsten would produce if it were heated to that temperature. There are 5 main color temp points as outlined below: 2300 K: This is close to a sodium lamp, like the orange street lamps. Not usually seen in homes except for special applications (grow light). 2700/3000K: Warm. Good for living rooms and bedrooms. 3500K/4000K: White. Good for bathrooms and kitchens. 5000K: Cool. Good for garages, utility rooms, and exterior lighting.
I like using the GU10 type bulbs and fittings for LED installs. They have come on heaps over the past few years in performance and looks (some bulbs are 'all glass' just like their halogen counterparts), you can always replace the bulb if it fails, and you are less restricted in choosing fittings as most GU10 fittings will take either a traditional halogen or LED bulb.
Went to home depot to get new bulbs for my family room ceiling fan. They don't have regular bulbs anymore they only sell led bulbs. I purchased 4 of them and put them in my fan and the lighting in the room was horrible it didn't have that warm feeling in the room. It had a cold feeling. Went to Walmart and they only have led bulbs too. After searching locally i found regular bulbs at Drugmart and purchased every 40w bulb they had on their shelf so im good for many years lol. I do have a super bright led fixture i installed in my garage which i love but i just can't have that kind of lighting inside my home. Like i said it just had a really cold feeling.
I have worked for a lighting company for the last decade, I have seen, installed, and used about anything you can think of. I recommend using nothing that doesn't have a screw-in base, the design works, its proven. While the saying about "not reinventing the lightbulb " is questionable, the A19 bulb shape, medium "Edison" base screw in light socket remains for several reasons. Several GOOD reasons....Backwards compatibility not least among them...I understand the customer is always right, but I use screw in LED bulbs in my own house...
That’s the way I went in my kitchen. I bought the stew in style then put led bulbs in. I found don’t go with utilitech brand from Home Depot. They are junk and two out of four started flickering within about a year. Sylvanias I haven’t had a issue out of yet and just bought a couple Crees to try out but those have a tad of delay when you first turn them on.
Why, oh why do people write in double negatives? Is it an attempt to sound intelligent? It doesn't. Put simply, you're saying use anything that has a screw-in base...there, isn't that better?
I've run all led lights for years in my house and yes well known brand screw ins work great if they can breathe. Also use a lot of the 2 prong style 12v and 110v. Hyperikon's have been burning for years in my house, around 30 total and not one has gone bad. Got cheapos before and was changing 1 a week
A good quality led fitting can easily have more than 50000 hour lifespan thats over 5 years of continuous operation so even at that interval changing a fitting isn't bad
It looks like his customer wanted a low profile light fixture. You cannot get one like this was traditional screw in type bulbs, and even if you did, it wouldn't be as evenly illuminated.
I didn't know that different colors even meant something. I thought it was random so you could identify what's what. Whoever opens up my ceiling fans is going to be in for one hell of a surprise. They'll think there's aluminum, copper, stainless and everything else.
3000K makes every room look like Grannies house. 5-6000K bright daylight is the clean look! The color temperature is an indication of the frequency of the light you see. Low end
I understand they were due for an upgraded fixture anyhow but do you see any benefit from buying a $100 replacement fixture vs a normal home center ceiling light for $15 and just putting 2 LED bulbs in it?
In my area, Costco has lights real similar to that one for $25 (I even got three or four for $15 a piece when 1 store was moving to a new style). I have been using those for about 3 years in my rentals. Quick and easy! I do wonder how long they will last, but right now, all is good.
3000K is called (at least here in Australia) "warm white" it has a slight yellow "warmth" to it , the higher you go, it is more blue / white and thus close to daylight (or "cool white")
Warm (yellowish) white is better than cool (bluish) white because the LED produces light closest to an incandescent (filament) lamp rather than a fluorescent lamp.
What many people fail to understand is that LED's are made to switch on and off 1 million times before burning out BUT the ballast powering them are not. I agree with other posters below in just buying a fixture that uses Edison style bulbs and just change the bulb when it burns out.
Actually LEDs themselves switch on and off thousands of times a second, so quick the human eye cannot detect, this is how they control the brightness and other factors of an LED. Ever notice in videos with vehicles with LED headlights or tail lights that sometimes they seem to flicker or pulse on and off? This is because the camera is fast enough to see the LED's "off cycle", but the human eye only sees it as solidly on.
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Thank you for providing a link to the light fixture! I've been looking at replacing some of the fixtures in my house and it is greatly appreciated when you put links to the tools, fixtures or appliances you use.
HI John, I'm glad they help you out. I also installed 4 dimmer switches on these lights and they worked very well smooth dimming and now flickering. That video will be out next week.
5000k to 6000k is when things look normal and shouldn't make anyone sick it is the closest in spectrum to natural daylight the lights around the 3000k mark aren't better but are closer to the output from an incandescent bulb, Personally i hate the yellow light it makes everything seem dull and washed out.
I have 5500k- 6500k led lights all through my house, sheds and sensor lights outside! i think they are amazing and a better color to see things with the human eye, so do my guests 2 when they drop over! Not sickening lol wtf! i think your bum steering ppl with old tech colors from what old bulbs (halogen) color puts out in their color range yr talking about 3000-4200k.
Phillips led daylight 6500k replacement bulbs are excellent in houses if anyone is interested and ready to be dazzled with with unmatched visibility clarity.
Hello. So for those who may be wondering about the K rating, it pertains to the light spectrum. When a star burns at a specific temperature it produces a specific color. So for example a 3000 k bulb mimics the color spectrum of a yellow dwarf star (like beatlegeuse). A 6000K bulb puts out light similar to what you would expect from a white dwarf. Daylight from our sun is around 5700K. The temp our sun burns at.
I installed about 30 5k daylight dimmable flush mount lights in my kitchen, dining room and two living rooms. The only thing that made me sick was thinking those rooms were completely clean until I turned the lights all the way up!
I have a 100 year old house with a 60 year old addition. There are two of those old fixtures with globes suspended by plumber's chain. I use LED bulbs in them. This gives me more flexibility and chances to experiment with new technology while retaining light fixtures that add charm.
Thought they make you sick? You never spoke to that!
To attract viewers to his channel
Look at 3:00 , he talks about having a Kelvin rating of over 5-6K making you “want to throw up”.
I always recommend using a traditional light fixture, and using LED bulbs in them. That way your options for fixture styles are endless, and you don't have to worry about unreplaceable LEDs.
100%
YES‼️‼️‼️👍🏻👍🏻
"You're supposed to tear the house down and rebuild when doing electrical upgrades." LOL
Or burn it down when you see a Spider😂😂😂
Only in the USA
LOL!!!! Tear the house down!!?? *WOW* !!???
@@susanjspaulding Damn near. He's making fun of naysayers, but he's not that far off from the "rules" these days. In particular, depending on the age of the house (about 70-80 years, at this point, I think), the house might have knob and tube wiring, which is much lower capacity and uses bare wires which could arc and cause a fire. Technically, if you're replacing incandescent or fluorescent with LED, you don't have to worry about overloading the wiring, because you're REDUCING the load, but the rules are, if you even suspect knob-and-tube, you're required to replace it all.
Also, people watch RUclips from everywhere, but California is orders of magnitude more draconian than the rest of the country when it comes to this stuff.
Hey man, I’m 20 years old, just finished up my first handyman job! Took too long and I charged too little but I learned so much. Thanks for all your tips and tricks and help getting started!
It happens with everyone- takes longer than expected, and pays less than expected. But you learn as you go. I highly recommend to watch all of this guy's videos, they're awesome and you'll learn a lot.
Go work for a kitchen remodeler, or serve an apprenticeship with a union plumbing shop. Learn the right way first.
The going rate per hour for handyman, if you are doing some plumbing and electrical is $95 per hour.
Robert Kattner: The going rate for anything depends entirely on your location. I promise you, NO handyman (for that matter, not even an electrical contractor) is gonna get $95/hr where I'm at.
I'm doing a remodel and everything is brushed nickel. I like it. It doesn't go out of style.
My builder had brushed nickel as the default for just about everything, except for stainless for the bathroom hardware. I kept it all as is.
I like brushed nickel. My mom is on her second remodel and likes oil rubbed bronze for everything so that’s what I install for her.
I agree. Screw someone else's opinion on what's in style .
Everyone is painting all their kitchen cabinets too, and while that may look fine, i prefer my maple woodgrain cabinets just fine.
First off, I'm an old phart. Mood lighting no longer applies to me.
I just finished replacing the last old light mounting in my condo today with and led light similar to the one you showed. What a difference! My two upstairs bedrooms are now bright as daylight and I no longer have to squint to find things.
One bedroom had a ceiling fan which I took down. It was screwed into the beams of the ceiling!
LOL I installed the same fixtures. In my sewing room I went with 5000k. It really lights up the room for small tasks.
I swithed back to candles, more romantic and do not need electricity. Make shure that you have a good candle holder, heavy with wide base, and do NOT leave them burning when you are not in the same room!
A short circuit is handy for candle lighting
They sure are romantic 😍😆
I went back to a wooden stove, candles are gay.
Always amazed at the change an LED light fixture can make.
I like the feeling of not paying the bastards so much money in electricity, as well!
Purple wire nuts are specifically designed to connect copper wires to aluminum wires. They have an almost closed bottom and are filled with a compound to prevent oxidation of the aluminum wire so the conductivity of the connection does not degrade over time.
K does stand for kelvin. Kelvin is a temperature rating used for incandescent lamps. So the Kelvin scale is used to describe color. The higher the number the more white it is. The lower the number the more yellow/orange it is. With LEDs it is also important to note the lumens. Lumens will tell you the light output or how bright it will be. Hope this helps
I've learned lumens are EVERYTHING. You can't see anything no matter the color if the lumens are under 800.
I love love love old light fixtures, I would just dust/clean them off and install LED bulbs in those old fixtures. Done.
I updated all of my house fixtures too. I put 23 of them into the house. Same ones as you show them and I bought them at Costco for $25 a piece. Work great.
That must depend on the person. I upgraded to "daylight" 5k LEDs in my last two houses and didn't experience any ill effects.
Fixture finishes change from year to year. Oil rubbed bronze was popular 10 years ago and now it's back. I like my brushed nickel. I also don't like mixing metals but that's just me.
I like 5000k bulbs for bathrooms. They also make for great video lighting. They're very close to natural sunlight.
Keep the lovely classical fixture and use LED bulbs. Much cheaper, easier and quicker.
@TakeAmericaBackfromISRAEL you must have done something wrong, I've never had problems led's.
Any time the establishment pushes something on the populace , the lie is, that "it is for your benefit and convenience". The reality is their agenda for population sterilization , control,and genocide. Led lights are harmful to your body, brain , and eyes. And they work in union with the smart meters. Don't believe me? I challenge a study off.. see what you come up with ? And good luck finding any of the old school bulbs, they're being phased out of availability as we speak
@@samjonez9608 just wow. Educate yourself and stop listening to nutters.
Lovely dust collection bowl on the ceiling? Nice.
@@samjonez9608 I just completed a thorough study and found no issues.
I just put a 4K light in my kitchen, and it looks like a neutron star when I turn it on! Soooo bright. Lol
Our house was built in 1925, and ya we still have some knob and tube wiring in the ceiling. All the outlets have been changed out--but not all the ceiling wiring.
Lots of good info in this video. I’ve never even heard of purple wire nuts but now I know 👍
I liked that old fixture. The house I grew up in had them in both bedrooms. The place was built, in 1919, so that fixture could very well be old, there!!
When I run into ancient wire I put white and black shrink wrap on it for ID and the stuff gets brittle and crumbles eventually so it helps keep the pixies in.
When I researched, I just got light fixtures that took Edison style bulbs. In those fixtures I put LED Bulbs. LEDs do fail, I rather change a LED bulb than take down the whole fixture and rewire a new one.
I like those Edison bulbs.
I've seen individual LEDs fail. Its silicon they can have defects.
I had to replace a driver in a commercial fixture. The building was about 4 years old. The fixture was a 2’x4’ troffer in a drop ceiling. It had a pair of LED panels in it. Cool fixture and it put out a nice diffuse light pattern. But when the driver failed, it would blink on and off about twice per second. The driver was not available locally, but the lighting supplier was able to order one in. Took about a week to get it.
Don’t buy Utilitech form Home Depot. I had two of four start to flicker and it’s not the socket.
I first bought 3M LED lightbulbs at $25 a piece. They didn't last very long, although we had them on all the time. Wal-Mart brand Great Value have been pretty good..
Handyman, you are so right about those GFI outlets!!!! My sump pump was on the same circuit as the outlet and because the outlet tripped my basement was flooded after heavy rain!!!! At least nothing valuable was ruined.
For me, the sweet spot is around 4000K. Unfortunately, the big box store usually only has 2700 K and 5000K which means it’s either way too orange or way too white.
I have been updating my fixtures with LED bulbs. I make sure they are rated at 5000k. We love them. They are brighter and produce the light we prefer. They don't make us sick, so I don't know what you are talking about.
The only thing about LED bulbs that made me sick was that not everything in my bathroom was a clean as I thought it was. I was using CFL's before which cast a tint on everything, and hid a lot. With brighter LEDs you can see every nook and cranny.
5000k? Wow, in a home? Like walking into a fridge.
I always cut the wire as close to the fixture as I can taking the old one down. I then wire nut on a pigtail using new wire and stuff the old wire, which I hopefully didn't disturb back into the box. I swear that electricians years ago tried to use the shortest pigtails and often not only used wire nuts but also soldered the wires. That old wire and tape can get brittle but it'll last another century as long as it isn't disturbed.
After having switched from living for years in yellow I would never go back. The daylight color makes my house more vibrant, allows me to see what my cloths actually look like, and reduces winter depression. I would recommend to everyone to be between 5,500 - 6,500 for their light color.
I've been using high Kelvin number bulbs (5500 to 6500) in all my fixtures for the past several years. No more wintertime blues in this household. The higher numbers are closer to daylight and your eyes use the light to produce vitamins your body needs.
Id be interested to know more about the eyes using this light to produce vitamins!
Purple wire nuts: when combining copper and aluminum wires. Now what did I win? LOL!
Decent video, professional, no TV cheesy stuff.
I switched over totally to LED throughout house, workshop, my vehicles as well and My wife and I actually feel better !
It's only the easiest job if you turn off the switch first, otherwise it's a adventure
yes, a shocking advanture ... LOL
🤣🤣🤣🤣 ah that's shocking.
This comment is electrifying. 😂
Purple wirenuts are a serious medical condition, please see your doctor if you have light fixtures older than 90 years.
😂😂😂😂
Nothing wrong with brushed nickle. Gold is actually in style now. It changes every 10 years. Put what you like. We’re doing a lot of rubber bronze cause it doesn’t clash with the brass fixtures that we choose to leave.
I've seen wires with cloth insulation you could literally blow off.
The led will last five years but thar led driver could die in a year or so. Thats what is wrong with most led light warranty.
CRI is the important figure when determining how accurate the kelvin measurement is. This is one of those rare moments when filmmaking and DIY carry over: you will notice that your camera also has a kelvin setting in the white balance (5600k being daylight, 3200k being tungsten) and the best film-making lights have a CRI of 95 or above where accuracy is important for the digital sensors. Unfortunately most manufacturers don't list or use accurate CRI in the residential lighting world.
I bought my house about 6 years ago, and almost all its recessed lighting had been retrofitted with LED lights. They had formerly taken incandescent floods, but the replacement LEDs came complete with the bezel and were a connected by a dongle you could just screw into the light socket; they clipped right into the canister. In 6 years I had a single one burn out on me about a month ago. The original model was no longer available, but an identical replacement down to bezel design was at Home Depot for about a third of what the original had cost.
I guess that light temperatures varied enough that the replacement fixture's was adjustable. I just had to set the switch until it looked the same as the existing lights.
I'm not that interested in your mission loadout, but I'll give it a like anyway to help out those who are.
Your HandyAndy’s sunglasses 😎 have stolen the limelight from the Led 💡 🏴🏴🇬🇧🇬🇧 good informative video👍🏻
AHA... You mentioned tools... and from the second I saw that screwdriver, I wanted one.
LED's do burn out. Our home was built and finished in the fall of 2016, all recessed light fixtures are LED's. As of December 2020, I've replaced 4 of them.
Yep, I've had some LED bulbs last less than a year, and others going on 6 years. I still have a couple CFL bulbs that are probably 10 years old too..
Who needs LED lights when you can carry a torch to every room you go to.
I use 2700K LED bulbs in my fixtures...very warm light, actually more pleasant than 60W incandescents...nice video, btw
Love that screwdriver.
"Is this thing on?"
Purple wiring nuts are for color coordinating to decor for the Mrs 🤣
I'm going back to oillamps!!
Just a little FYI. White LEDs tend to color shift a bit towards blue as they age. Presumably from deterioration of the fluorescent layer
Nice installation, but I would say minimum 4000K for light in the ceiling, between 4000 - 5000K is the best, but I guess majority of people want that "light bulb temperature". I want WHITE and it's so hard to find. Either it is too yellow (2700-3000k) or it is too blue (6000K)
I'm a contractor also who's bread and butter is light electrical work such as this.
Thanks for the info on the light tones with LED fixtures.Its very very helpful
I have that same fixture in my and NO ONE has gotten sick from it. LED lighting DOES NOT cause sickness. Lack of natural lighting WILL cause depression over time. You can get a natural light that will fix that problem. A light that is not on that much such as a bathroom light IS NOT going to hurt you in any way.
I rarely ever comment on videos I watch, but this was a funny one. Thanks for the laugh.
might I suggest that the K rating for the light is for the LED itself, but the variation that you are noting is caused instead by the glass or plastic that is used to soften the light, even the paint used inside the light will have a large effect on the perceived colour of the light. BTW, love that screwdriver you were using., thanks for the link to it in your description.
Where was your equipment grounding conductor in this installation? From what I could make out in the video, I couldn’t see a connection to that conductor. If you had an ungrounded wiring method (e.g. old non-metallic cable without ground), then a fixture requiring that connection can’t be installed. My hunch would be the wiring method was armored cable (or what we call BX in the electrical trade). If so, a connection should’ve been made to the outlet box via a ground screw in a threaded opening.
These big circular white LED lights are hugely popular in Japan. They have even bigger ones than that. I have relatives who own a house built near the time of the Civil War and they found a note dated 1867 in one of the walls.
I am only interested in the Chipmunk trolling voice. It gets me every time! Keep it up!!
I like the vibe of an element.
Do I Need To Turn Off The Breaker Or Just The Switch!? Please Let Me Know AsAP.. Im About To Get Started On Switching The Fixture!!!
are you still alive or did you die from not turning off the breaker??
Aluminum to copper connections = purple wire nuts
I’m gonna say what many others have said. Use good old regular fixtures with LED bulbs. ESPECIALLY for outdoor security floods. The new built-in LED ones are a massive pain to install, not user friendly to install and throwing away the whole fixture when they fail costs too much. Again, for the outside floods on photo-cell and/or motion sensor use the good old tried and true fixtures with LED bulbs.
@3:09 i use a 6.5k light out of laziness of not having to swap bulbs for photography/video set usage and everyday use. im kinda used to it now but when anyone comes in, it practically blinds them
I had this playing at half speed on accident - thought you were just acting drunk with the sun glasses since you always fast forward through some segments. I didnt realize my settings were changed. Man - That was too funny.
You are correct, "K" stands for "Kelvin". 5600K approximates "daylight". 3200K approximates Tungsten bulbs, just for reference (despite what that chart says).
If you buy a light for video or film, the color temperature ratings are very important for color matching, and manufacturers are held to a higher standard. When you buy residential fixtures, the standards are lower, thus, the variation from fixture to fixture... :)
I enjoyed this.
The service panel in that house is most likely a split-bus design. Code has always had the exception that you may have up to six disconnects to turn off a service. To save money by eliminating a main disconnect, one of the six disconnects shuts off any/all circuits that are not one of the six main disconnects. Then the other five disconnects are used for larger loads like Range, Dryer, A/C, etc. Split-bus panels remained popular even through the seventies.
5000K+ makes you feel sick? You know sunlight is 6500K right?
You wanted to know the age of that fixture, its 1941. The lamp is from the JC Virden catalog. I have three of them in my livingroom. The globes came in Blue, White, Peach & Pink.
If you want more light and LED, then use CREE led bulbs. Choose the Kelvin and the equivalent wattage you want. I chose to duplicate the original light bulbs, with a CREE 2700K @ 40 watt equivalent LED. I use them as accent lights.
I bet you trashed the light. The fixtures go for about $35 - 50 and the glass goes for $50-75 on Ebay. That's about what I paid for two matching Peach colored globes with new repo bases to match the original single fixture.
In a knob and tube wired house, the neutral conductors are used as switch legs... When I am doing a whole house makeover, I reverse the neutral and current carrying conductor in the panel, and indicate that with colored shrinkable tubing, using a different color for each new current carrying conductor and white on the new neutrals. Then do the same fix at each device / fixture. At the first outlet on each circuit, the NEC allows you convert 2 prong outlet to 3 prong (without a ground / non-current carrying conductor) if you install a GFCI outlet. When you need to shut off a circuit, the color code will make this task easier...
I like the old one 1,000 times better.
All of my led lights are 5k installed them in my mother’s home grandmothers house and great uncles home we all love the bright white light they give off I’m calling BS
I agree with you on 3000k! 2700k is garbage, way too yellow. It's difficult to find 3000k LED bulbs at many stores, takes some searching!
There are many other factors to consider when choosing a LED fixture besides CCT (°Kelvin temerature). Not all LEDs are created equally. Some run at 70 lumens per watt and others run at 200 lumens per watt. Generally, a LED that runs at 200 lumens per watt will last longer because they run cooler. But if a manufacturer decides to run them at maximum wattage then they will die sooner. It is similar to driving a car at 100 mph all the time compared to running it at 40 mph all the time. The best way to design a LED light for longevity is to use extremely efficient LEDs and under drive them. Then use a well designed power supplied to drive the LEDs. It is not difficult to design an LED fixture to last5 or 6 years and then die. The MTBF (mean time before failure) is well known for most components going into the fixture. Most LED light failures are caused by poorly designed power supplies. The use of cheap capacitors in the power supply leads to short lifetimes. Poor heat management is another major cause of LED failure.
Hey John, Surfing the home improvement channels I came across your video. Your presentation is awesome. After doing some research on the matter I decided to buy two 18" GetInLight LED ceiling light fixtures (30W, 3000K) for my 12' by 22' kitchen with a 9'+ ceiling. They replaced two circa 1980 triple incandescent bulb fixtures and are controlled by a normal dimmer. What a great upgrade. The 60W LED fixtures emits more light than the previous 360W configuration. Not to mention no more ladder climbing to replace burnt-out bulbs. BTW a standard #2 Phillips screwdriver works fine for me. Regards.
The like is for the sunglasses👍 tool belts are personal😉
Great video. I like changing out the old fixtures with LED slim lights maybe 12" or 15". Amazon has one that I like made by BLNAN which has a remote for changing the light color and the intensity plus some other cool features. Good for 30,000 hours.
i done mine at home in scotland, black and red wires lol, crossbar fitting,
i like the way you have done your commentery, good stuff handyman
Question about the "LED Lights will make you sick"..
When you said "6,000K and you're going to want to throw up", is that what you were referring to by LEDs making you "sick"?
Follow up, your chart shows 6,000K and above as daylight. Do you get sick often when going outside?
Just curious if I'm missing something here. Thanks.
I've seen your old video on your tool vest, but it doesn't hurt to see what changes you've made.
Blood of Gaea. NICE pic doseint fit your user name..
Considering she's a vampire it fits well enough for me.
Agree 3000k temp does look nice for housing. Office 4000k is preferred as the white makes working a lot easer. 5000k Way to high, maybe for external security lighting?
Although they are not as easy to find as they used to be, 2700K is the closest to "warm white", but most people cannot really differentiate between 3000K and 2700K. Side by side, it is a noticeable difference, and mixing and matching brands in a fixture will make it look a little "off". "Bright white" bulbs are generally considered 4000K or 5000K depending on the manufacturer. "Daylight" bulbs are somewhere around 5500-6000K, and "cool white" are 6000+K. As for where this whole Kelvin scale comes from, basically when things get really frigging hot, like the sun, they start glowing. The sun glows at 5780K in space and 5900K in the ionosphere, give or take on the brightness depending on how many sun-spots or cold spots there are at any given time. Natural day light is near 6000K due to Raleigh scattering in the atmosphere, specifically with oxygen molecules and the dipole of of water molecules. It often seems counter-intuitive that a lower kelvin temperature is associated with a warmer light. The reason for this is the origins of how light was perceived before all the science got involved. Red is closest to infrared light, which is non-visible and at a lower energy than visible light. Infrared light deposits a lot of energy deep into the skin so it actually feels warmer. Things like fire give off a lot of radiant heat in the infrared spectrum with that warm glow we all know and love when it's really cold outside. Ultraviolet light on the other hand is higher energy than visible light and doesn't really deposit much energy deep into the skin, but it will fry the top layer (sunburn!). Ultraviolet light won't really raise the skin temperature even though it is depositing energy. For a comparison of being outside, or at least looking outside, When everything is covered with snow, and the sun's 6000K is being reflected back at 6000K due to all the white reflectors (snow), it looks cold out but the fire place has that nice warm glow even though the fire is actually only about 1380K and the sun is 5780K.
I hang around until the end of your videos. But mostly because you’re an amusing SOB. I do like that you and your wife are hard working folks though. Btw aluminum to copper connection
Thanks for watching. Live stream tonight.
I changed all my lights some years back once you could get led in the warmer range under 3500k. I never did get this obsetion with 5000+ k range. Its all the go though. Everyone seems to like the colder whiter lights.
All the lighting in my house is 5500K. I no longer have issues with Seasonal Affective Disorder because I use “daylight” range lighting.
Electrical engineer/specifier here.
I don't know where to start, so I'll address the brand of fixture. It's not a reputable manufacturer. Since LED's are the new thing, a lot of fly by night makers have come on the scene. Many of these companies buy cheap LED drivers and light engines from Asia and slap them in a housing. This creates 2 problems: 1.) Since they are cheap, they are not as energy efficient as other LED fixtures and they tend to burn out quickly, even before their stated warranty (if the company is gone in 4 years, then what?) 2.) They aren't designed for optimal light output. Other LED fixtures with purpose built light engines take into consideration the way the light is distributed and optimizes its pattern.
What is a reputable brand name? Acuity Brands (Juno, Lithonia, etc) is a good place to start. They have residential fixtures and have been making fixtures, including for the commerical market, for decades and know what they're doing.
Second, dimming. Again, with cheaper brands "dimmable" is a buzz word. A lot of times the LEDs flicker or have a terrible dim curve (just barely dims until you get near the lowest setting, then the light output plummets). Even the reputable guys don't have a perfect dimmable LED for phase dimming (the kind you get with a line voltage dimmer). If you REALLY want to be able to dim LED lights (like in a TV room), you want to go 0-10V. It requires special dimmers, extra wiring and commercial grade fixtures, but if dimming is a must have, it's worth the expense.
Finally, the color temp. (Side note, no one in the trade says "Kelvins" we simply say "kay".) The color scale is actually based on incadescence, despite the fact the industry is moving away from it. It's basically the color a filament of tungsten would produce if it were heated to that temperature. There are 5 main color temp points as outlined below:
2300 K: This is close to a sodium lamp, like the orange street lamps. Not usually seen in homes except for special applications (grow light).
2700/3000K: Warm. Good for living rooms and bedrooms.
3500K/4000K: White. Good for bathrooms and kitchens.
5000K: Cool. Good for garages, utility rooms, and exterior lighting.
You sound like a genius. Way smarter then me.
I like using the GU10 type bulbs and fittings for LED installs. They have come on heaps over the past few years in performance and looks (some bulbs are 'all glass' just like their halogen counterparts), you can always replace the bulb if it fails, and you are less restricted in choosing fittings as most GU10 fittings will take either a traditional halogen or LED bulb.
Went to home depot to get new bulbs for my family room ceiling fan. They don't have regular bulbs anymore they only sell led bulbs. I purchased 4 of them and put them in my fan and the lighting in the room was horrible it didn't have that warm feeling in the room. It had a cold feeling. Went to Walmart and they only have led bulbs too. After searching locally i found regular bulbs at Drugmart and purchased every 40w bulb they had on their shelf so im good for many years lol. I do have a super bright led fixture i installed in my garage which i love but i just can't have that kind of lighting inside my home. Like i said it just had a really cold feeling.
Attaching copper to aluminum wiring that's what purple wire nuts are for.
I have worked for a lighting company for the last decade, I have seen, installed, and used about anything you can think of. I recommend using nothing that doesn't have a screw-in base, the design works, its proven. While the saying about "not reinventing the lightbulb " is questionable, the A19 bulb shape, medium "Edison" base screw in light socket remains for several reasons. Several GOOD reasons....Backwards compatibility not least among them...I understand the customer is always right, but I use screw in LED bulbs in my own house...
That’s the way I went in my kitchen. I bought the stew in style then put led bulbs in. I found don’t go with utilitech brand from Home Depot. They are junk and two out of four started flickering within about a year. Sylvanias I haven’t had a issue out of yet and just bought a couple Crees to try out but those have a tad of delay when you first turn them on.
Why, oh why do people write in double negatives? Is it an attempt to sound intelligent? It doesn't. Put simply, you're saying use anything that has a screw-in base...there, isn't that better?
I've run all led lights for years in my house and yes well known brand screw ins work great if they can breathe. Also use a lot of the 2 prong style 12v and 110v. Hyperikon's have been burning for years in my house, around 30 total and not one has gone bad. Got cheapos before and was changing 1 a week
A good quality led fitting can easily have more than 50000 hour lifespan thats over 5 years of continuous operation so even at that interval changing a fitting isn't bad
It looks like his customer wanted a low profile light fixture. You cannot get one like this was traditional screw in type bulbs, and even if you did, it wouldn't be as evenly illuminated.
Think your starting to have to much fun on these vids...... I like it ^^
Purple wire nuts are the Noco wire nuts for aluminum wire to copper wire to avoid corrosion
I didn't know that different colors even meant something. I thought it was random so you could identify what's what. Whoever opens up my ceiling fans is going to be in for one hell of a surprise. They'll think there's aluminum, copper, stainless and everything else.
Mikey Johnson that’s if you have a house left once the mixture of wire nuts causes a huge electrical fire and burns down your house 😂
@@sinista6536 , why is the notion of his house burning down comical to you? You are a sadistic jerk for having posted such a comment.
Attaboy
@@joseybarra2046 he wasn't serious. Calm it down bucko.
3000K makes every room look like Grannies house. 5-6000K bright daylight is the clean look! The color temperature is an indication of the frequency of the light you see. Low end
I understand they were due for an upgraded fixture anyhow but do you see any benefit from buying a $100 replacement fixture vs a normal home center ceiling light for $15 and just putting 2 LED bulbs in it?
In my area, Costco has lights real similar to that one for $25 (I even got three or four for $15 a piece when 1 store was moving to a new style). I have been using those for about 3 years in my rentals. Quick and easy! I do wonder how long they will last, but right now, all is good.
Thou customer getteth what thou customer asketh for.
I use the standard fixture and put LED bulbs in it. Alot cheaper!
He gets a better mark-up and make more money from unsuspecting customers.
Aaron E
LED bulbs are garbage. Low output compared with with a genuine LWD array. They also don,t last as long.
They were still doing fabric tape instead of wire nuts (depending on the electrician and local code) as late as 1969.
3000K is called (at least here in Australia) "warm white" it has a slight yellow "warmth" to it , the higher you go, it is more blue / white and thus close to daylight (or "cool white")
Warm (yellowish) white is better than cool (bluish) white because the LED produces light closest to an incandescent (filament) lamp rather than a fluorescent lamp.
What many people fail to understand is that LED's are made to switch on and off 1 million times before burning out BUT the ballast powering them are not. I agree with other posters below in just buying a fixture that uses Edison style bulbs and just change the bulb when it burns out.
Actually LEDs themselves switch on and off thousands of times a second, so quick the human eye cannot detect, this is how they control the brightness and other factors of an LED. Ever notice in videos with vehicles with LED headlights or tail lights that sometimes they seem to flicker or pulse on and off? This is because the camera is fast enough to see the LED's "off cycle", but the human eye only sees it as solidly on.
I think it helps with Aluminum oxidation, And it keeps a cooler connection .
Those old fixtures probably are worth twice the cost for the new LED boob lamps. Best to leave beautiful original