The diaphragm will have a little 0 on it. If you check to see where the fuel inlet is the 0 will most probably be facing it. Clock the diaphragm until the 0 is opposite the inlet. Remove Inlet banjo bolt it should be a 17mm stick a little screwdriver in there and pull the gauze out you can either clean it or throw it away but I throw it away . That’s the secondary filter before fuel entering injection pump you don’t need it it just gets blocked and will loose power
I might be wrong but isn't 1.5bar out of the efficiency range for the standard turbo? I'm running peak 13psi with fueling mods. Also I believe the standard 0 mark points towards the firewall of the truck. Pointing towards the front is 180 degrees of rotation. I'm at about 120/130 degrees and can't really squeeze more without high EGTs
This is a very good question and maybe the answer to why mine just barely reaches the 1.5 mark. Usually it's just over 1.4 bar. I've ready many discussions on this will little consensus. My understanding was that while adequately increasing fuel supply, you could increase boost well over 2 bar, which rapidly shortens engine life. I've searched and read many chats on this and only once was an aftermarket turbo mentioned. Seems that more than safe boost can be achieved with the factory turbo. I'd be very happy to hear of any of your future findings on all this. Regarding the fuel advance, (if memory serves) the one video I watched on this seemed to start with the '0' closest to the engine. Secondly, I had my injection pump calibrated and at the same time asked the tech to turn the diaphragm as per my direction. When he opened the top 'cap', the '0' was closest to the engine. I also read in many places that if you don't have thick black smoke (sounds horrible) then you're boost will be limited. I know that under full boost, at 1.45 bar, There is nearly no smoke, so your theory on the fuel diaphragm may be correct and I may actually only be at about 100 degrees. This could mean that under 1.4 bar boost, I'm not reaching max power for that boost level, given a lack of fuel. I think I'll turn the diaphragm 80 degrees, lower my boost controller setting and see what happens gradually. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@hectorgarrido8629 Si. Aumentó el suministro de combustible girando el diafragma del distribuidor de combustible 100 grados. Puedo convertirlo en 80 adicionales por media vuelta completa. Creo que mi turbo se está quedando sin impulso debido a la falta de combustible.
Isn’t there a brass screw in the back of the pump you can up the base fueling amount? I’ve got creased that on mine and under full boost @max rpm I can still get smoke and has made it need less throttle to cruise, really responsive too not needing boost to give it the extra fuel
There is and I have a video showing the adjustment and tuning process on the injection pump / fuel system. The problem is that it's right near the point where any more increase, causes too much idle speed increase. Although, I think I can get a hair more out of it.
the top mount intercooler on the 4m40 equipped Mitsubishi vehicles cannot really effectively cool the turbo heat over 18psi. and unless you have upgraded the exhaust i wouldn't recommend anything over 15psi on stock original equipment.
Thanks much for your feedback. Yes...and I've heard that at over 1.65 bar / 24psi, you run the risk of blowing the factory intercooler if it hasn't aged well. The exhaust is full 2.5" stainless from the header to tailpipe with no cat, resonator or muffler...straight shot. The second scoop I've installed currently has a fan and will soon have a second intercooler as well as a modern replacement also installed in the factory location. Thanks again for commenting.
Hi. Great and easy to follow tutorial. I've also added shims to the westgate and wanted to rotate the diafragm after, but surprise.... the O marking wasn't facing the engine at 9 o'clock, was somewhere around 2 o'clock. I'm the only one who's been opening the boost controller, so Im pretty sure that's how it came from the factory. My car is a Delica L400 with the same 4m40 and same mechanical pump. I know it's not a Paj but still, any thoughts mate? Thanks.
Thanks very much! Yeah...I've heard reports of various positions for the '0'. Many say original position is towards the windshield. Really, it doesn't matter. What matters is the position of the pin and the angle that positions the fuel pin. In my video, I loosen the diaphram and repositioned the '0' so that it lined up with the most aggressive angle of the pin. So, I would recommend you do the same, so that you know where the deepest angle is on your fuel pin. Your questions are always welcome.
Hello, could you help me? I cannot remove the conical piece that goes along with the membrane in a 1999 Mitsubishi Montero. It is possible to remove the membrane nut and access the inside of the area to unclog the cone, the plunger, and raise it. up to restore order, the car works perfectly in low and high speeds, perhaps to recover when changing gears and going up, it's a little bit missing but the car works perfectly, it's great. I bought it recently and now I wanted to readjust the diesel injection, I can't, you can help me? Thank you thank you very much.
Hello, I would recommend watching other videos for 'Bosch VE pump fuel increase'. Are you sure your pump is the same? You do have a diesel engine right?
I madre a sawp from gas 3.0 V6 to a 4M40 recently in my 3 door pajero. I am lacking tach signal , so I have to figure if I go with a new tach indicator taking the signal from the alternator or get the factory tach indicator 0-6000 rpm and replace the original tach. I would like also get a 60 mm boost indicator and place it exactly like yours in the three gauge panel. Thanks a lot I enjoy your vids!
Thanks very much for the feedback and nice swap choice! My tach was intermittent, but has finally resigned all duty. I also have been considering an aftermarket tach and would try to place it where the original is located. The biggest problem is the thin plastic 'circuit board' on the back of the cluster. If you find a solution, I'd be very happy for an update. My next videos will be windshield replacement and frame rust repair, and very soon...a fuel level sensor in the tank will be replaced.
Yes. This mechanical system is basically the same on all older turbo diesel engine fuel injection pumps. On modern vehicles, all these components have electrical sensors hooked up to them or are otherwise blocked off from access or adjustment. What year is yours? Basically...if it looks like the one in the video, then the steps and adjustments will be basically the same, with minor individual adjustment for each individual vehicle.
Thanks Bro! Just over two decades in the US (native), Then nearly two decades in France and now Philippines. VERY glad you like the videos. Hit by a Cat. 5 Typhoon. House flattened. No electricity for 2 months. No job or income for two months. No ATMs working, so no cash. Pure mad max survival for past 2.5 months now.
Friend, I have a 2001 Montero 4m40 Turbo, and my friend has another one. For some reason my friend's is much faster going up the mountain and mine is much slower. We have the theory that the previous owner reduced the delivery of diesel in order to pass the emission certification in my country. (already cleaned injectors and maintenance) (highlight that mine also don't show any black smoke in any situation, its normal to be that clean on diesel? and my friend's car shows a little bit of black smoke climbing, that's the main difference between both cars) so this could help? or do you know any trick to increase at least a bit of power?
Yes. Your guess sounds 100% correct. If you never have any black, especially under max acceleration, then you are not getting enough fuel for potential power. Compare your fuel system settings to what I show in the video. Adjust as needed. Keep in touch on this. Thanks!
@@offgridislandfamily My friend!!! you literally saved me! Already adjusted and now the throttle response is so much better, I feel a bit more power and the "good new" is that now I have a little bit of black smoke in full acceleration. Do you recommend to do something else? now I want to do something else to have even more power haha.
@@mendoza1308 Thank you SO much for this feedback. Really appreciated. Until I learn more about what the stock engine can handle, I'm not passing 1.6 bar / 23 PSI. Many guys are running 2 bar or nearly 30 psi! I'm not ready for that. The next plan is to update the stock intercooler with a modern aluminum one that drops right in original place...then add a second intercooler, either under-hood or front mount. This condenses the volume of air entering the engine, allowing much more fuel to be burned at the same boost pressure. More power without passing 23 psi.
Yes, I think the only difference is the intake manifold pressure release valve in on top of the intake manifold, making it MUCH easier to remove and plug.
You're absolutely right about that! When I bought it, she was a slug, but I could tell that the mechanicals were healthy and just needed tuning. I'm SURE it's up 30-40%. I also regret not weighing it first. I'm slowly removing any unnecessary part(s) for less weight. If it doesn't work, isn't worth fixing or serve a good purpose, I CHUCK it!
Like a Festivus Miracle? Perhaps my enunciation was lacking in the very first sentence of the video where I say, 'Increasing turbo boost (boost controller & shimmed waste-gate) ALSO requires increasing fuel supply'? Thanks for commenting though...a second set of ears and eyes is always helpful.
If turbo psi drops away further up the rev range, there's not enough on boost fueling. Therefore turning the boost diaphragm maybe doesn't increase boost but it certainly will sustain it
@@barkyclarky Right. From what I've read, the more boost you have, the more fuel you need. And I am seeing this realtime on mine. With the boost controller completely closed (no waste gate activation) the boost is maxing out around 1.4 bar and no smoke. From what experienced people seem to say, if you don't have black smoke under full boost, you don't have full boost. Basically...seems like you just add a little boost, then a little fuel and so forth until it's the boost controller/waste gate that limits boost, rather than a shortage of fuel.
The diaphragm will have a little 0 on it. If you check to see where the fuel inlet is the 0 will most probably be facing it. Clock the diaphragm until the 0 is opposite the inlet. Remove Inlet banjo bolt it should be a 17mm stick a little screwdriver in there and pull the gauze out you can either clean it or throw it away but I throw it away . That’s the secondary filter before fuel entering injection pump you don’t need it it just gets blocked and will loose power
Thanks VERY much for this post by the way!
can u make a video the one u throw away, thanks
I might be wrong but isn't 1.5bar out of the efficiency range for the standard turbo? I'm running peak 13psi with fueling mods. Also I believe the standard 0 mark points towards the firewall of the truck. Pointing towards the front is 180 degrees of rotation. I'm at about 120/130 degrees and can't really squeeze more without high EGTs
This is a very good question and maybe the answer to why mine just barely reaches the 1.5 mark. Usually it's just over 1.4 bar. I've ready many discussions on this will little consensus. My understanding was that while adequately increasing fuel supply, you could increase boost well over 2 bar, which rapidly shortens engine life. I've searched and read many chats on this and only once was an aftermarket turbo mentioned. Seems that more than safe boost can be achieved with the factory turbo. I'd be very happy to hear of any of your future findings on all this. Regarding the fuel advance, (if memory serves) the one video I watched on this seemed to start with the '0' closest to the engine. Secondly, I had my injection pump calibrated and at the same time asked the tech to turn the diaphragm as per my direction. When he opened the top 'cap', the '0' was closest to the engine. I also read in many places that if you don't have thick black smoke (sounds horrible) then you're boost will be limited. I know that under full boost, at 1.45 bar, There is nearly no smoke, so your theory on the fuel diaphragm may be correct and I may actually only be at about 100 degrees. This could mean that under 1.4 bar boost, I'm not reaching max power for that boost level, given a lack of fuel. I think I'll turn the diaphragm 80 degrees, lower my boost controller setting and see what happens gradually. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Hola una consulta usted le esta dando mas paso de combustible ala bonba o con eso que muestra leda mas precion al turbo saludos
@@hectorgarrido8629 Si. Aumentó el suministro de combustible girando el diafragma del distribuidor de combustible 100 grados. Puedo convertirlo en 80 adicionales por media vuelta completa. Creo que mi turbo se está quedando sin impulso debido a la falta de combustible.
Isn’t there a brass screw in the back of the pump you can up the base fueling amount? I’ve got creased that on mine and under full boost @max rpm I can still get smoke and has made it need less throttle to cruise, really responsive too not needing boost to give it the extra fuel
There is and I have a video showing the adjustment and tuning process on the injection pump / fuel system. The problem is that it's right near the point where any more increase, causes too much idle speed increase. Although, I think I can get a hair more out of it.
the top mount intercooler on the 4m40 equipped Mitsubishi vehicles cannot really effectively cool the turbo heat over 18psi. and unless you have upgraded the exhaust i wouldn't recommend anything over 15psi on stock original equipment.
Thanks much for your feedback. Yes...and I've heard that at over 1.65 bar / 24psi, you run the risk of blowing the factory intercooler if it hasn't aged well. The exhaust is full 2.5" stainless from the header to tailpipe with no cat, resonator or muffler...straight shot. The second scoop I've installed currently has a fan and will soon have a second intercooler as well as a modern replacement also installed in the factory location. Thanks again for commenting.
Hi. Great and easy to follow tutorial.
I've also added shims to the westgate and wanted to rotate the diafragm after, but surprise.... the O marking wasn't facing the engine at 9 o'clock, was somewhere around 2 o'clock. I'm the only one who's been opening the boost controller, so Im pretty sure that's how it came from the factory. My car is a Delica L400 with the same 4m40 and same mechanical pump. I know it's not a Paj but still, any thoughts mate? Thanks.
Thanks very much! Yeah...I've heard reports of various positions for the '0'. Many say original position is towards the windshield. Really, it doesn't matter. What matters is the position of the pin and the angle that positions the fuel pin. In my video, I loosen the diaphram and repositioned the '0' so that it lined up with the most aggressive angle of the pin. So, I would recommend you do the same, so that you know where the deepest angle is on your fuel pin. Your questions are always welcome.
@@offgridislandfamily did exactly that in the end, just took off the diaphragmed and rotated to the most steep angle of the cone. Thanks again!
@@noidoisiuncaine BINGO!
Hello, could you help me? I cannot remove the conical piece that goes along with the membrane in a 1999 Mitsubishi Montero. It is possible to remove the membrane nut and access the inside of the area to unclog the cone, the plunger, and raise it. up to restore order, the car works perfectly in low and high speeds, perhaps to recover when changing gears and going up, it's a little bit missing but the car works perfectly, it's great. I bought it recently and now I wanted to readjust the diesel injection, I can't, you can help me? Thank you thank you very much.
Hello, I would recommend watching other videos for 'Bosch VE pump fuel increase'. Are you sure your pump is the same? You do have a diesel engine right?
Helpful
Very glad to hear that! Just don't over-boost the turbo, or you'll be doing a head gasket job. ;-)
Wow great
COOL...THANKS!
I madre a sawp from gas 3.0 V6 to a 4M40 recently in my 3 door pajero. I am lacking tach signal , so I have to figure if I go with a new tach indicator taking the signal from the alternator or get the factory tach indicator 0-6000 rpm and replace the original tach. I would like also get a 60 mm boost indicator and place it exactly like yours in the three gauge panel. Thanks a lot I enjoy your vids!
Thanks very much for the feedback and nice swap choice! My tach was intermittent, but has finally resigned all duty. I also have been considering an aftermarket tach and would try to place it where the original is located. The biggest problem is the thin plastic 'circuit board' on the back of the cluster. If you find a solution, I'd be very happy for an update. My next videos will be windshield replacement and frame rust repair, and very soon...a fuel level sensor in the tank will be replaced.
Здравствуйте, у вас есть опыт по увеличению мощности 4d56t с механическим топливным насосом?
Нет, но это тот же насос, поэтому процедура та же.
Is this all relatively the same on other diesels? I have an 80 series 1hdt and I want to turn the fueling up /boost up earlier
Yes. This mechanical system is basically the same on all older turbo diesel engine fuel injection pumps. On modern vehicles, all these components have electrical sensors hooked up to them or are otherwise blocked off from access or adjustment. What year is yours?
Basically...if it looks like the one in the video, then the steps and adjustments will be basically the same, with minor individual adjustment for each individual vehicle.
Mines a 92 vx landcruiser 80 series 12 valve 1hdt
@@thatsnotright7260 yeah. That should be the same set up.
Where do you live bro? You sound real american lol. Im totaly confused. Haha. Great videos by the way
Thanks Bro! Just over two decades in the US (native), Then nearly two decades in France and now Philippines. VERY glad you like the videos. Hit by a Cat. 5 Typhoon. House flattened. No electricity for 2 months. No job or income for two months. No ATMs working, so no cash. Pure mad max survival for past 2.5 months now.
Friend, I have a 2001 Montero 4m40 Turbo, and my friend has another one. For some reason my friend's is much faster going up the mountain and mine is much slower. We have the theory that the previous owner reduced the delivery of diesel in order to pass the emission certification in my country. (already cleaned injectors and maintenance) (highlight that mine also don't show any black smoke in any situation, its normal to be that clean on diesel? and my friend's car shows a little bit of black smoke climbing, that's the main difference between both cars) so this could help? or do you know any trick to increase at least a bit of power?
Yes. Your guess sounds 100% correct. If you never have any black, especially under max acceleration, then you are not getting enough fuel for potential power. Compare your fuel system settings to what I show in the video. Adjust as needed. Keep in touch on this. Thanks!
@@offgridislandfamily My friend!!! you literally saved me! Already adjusted and now the throttle response is so much better, I feel a bit more power and the "good new" is that now I have a little bit of black smoke in full acceleration. Do you recommend to do something else? now I want to do something else to have even more power haha.
@@mendoza1308 Thank you SO much for this feedback. Really appreciated. Until I learn more about what the stock engine can handle, I'm not passing 1.6 bar / 23 PSI. Many guys are running 2 bar or nearly 30 psi! I'm not ready for that. The next plan is to update the stock intercooler with a modern aluminum one that drops right in original place...then add a second intercooler, either under-hood or front mount. This condenses the volume of air entering the engine, allowing much more fuel to be burned at the same boost pressure. More power without passing 23 psi.
It can be aaplied in Isuzu Trooper 4gj2 turbo?
YES...if your injection pump looks and functions like this one, it's the same system. It looks like your engine has two of the plunger pin systems?
This can be apply on 4d56 engine
Yes, I think the only difference is the intake manifold pressure release valve in on top of the intake manifold, making it MUCH easier to remove and plug.
You should have done a dyno before and after. 😊
You're absolutely right about that! When I bought it, she was a slug, but I could tell that the mechanicals were healthy and just needed tuning. I'm SURE it's up 30-40%. I also regret not weighing it first. I'm slowly removing any unnecessary part(s) for less weight. If it doesn't work, isn't worth fixing or serve a good purpose, I CHUCK it!
Where are at mate? Philippines?
Yep. Angat, Bulacan.
its 4m40!?
Yes, my good man, it is.
Mine will no longer start
Mine too now. VERY FRUSTRATED.
You do realise boost doesn't magically rise by rotating the fuel pump diaphragm....
Like a Festivus Miracle? Perhaps my enunciation was lacking in the very first sentence of the video where I say, 'Increasing turbo boost (boost controller & shimmed waste-gate) ALSO requires increasing fuel supply'? Thanks for commenting though...a second set of ears and eyes is always helpful.
@@offgridislandfamilyno worries cocko, I'll let you get back to putting fans in your bonnet over the turbo then 🤦🏻♂️
@@MynameisGeoff82 Whatever floats your boat...which seems to be posting uninteresting and pointless criticisms.
If turbo psi drops away further up the rev range, there's not enough on boost fueling. Therefore turning the boost diaphragm maybe doesn't increase boost but it certainly will sustain it
@@barkyclarky Right. From what I've read, the more boost you have, the more fuel you need. And I am seeing this realtime on mine. With the boost controller completely closed (no waste gate activation) the boost is maxing out around 1.4 bar and no smoke. From what experienced people seem to say, if you don't have black smoke under full boost, you don't have full boost. Basically...seems like you just add a little boost, then a little fuel and so forth until it's the boost controller/waste gate that limits boost, rather than a shortage of fuel.