D76 Type Developers Part 2: Adox MQ Borax
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Can Adox's MQ Borax developer, similar to the standard ASA test developers of old, improve upon D76 with its lower sulphite level and bromide addition? In this video we continue our search for a better D76, one that we can make at home that will give us improved negatives and better prints.
John Finch
www.pictorialpanet.com
John, you make such killer series on so many crucial film procedures. You deserve to have as many viewers as possible. One easy way to achieve this is to include links to all other episodes in every episode's description. For example, episode one should have the links for episode 2, 3, 4, 5. Episode 2 should have the links for episode 1, 3, 4, 5, and so on.
RUclips doesn't make it easy to find the other episodes, especially on a phone. By including the links you make sure that people can find the fruit of your hard labor more easily.
Thank you for this advice, Paolo. I will work on this over the next week!
Looking forward to next week, really enjoying this series of discovery.
Thanks Stephen!
I would be interested to see D76 1+1 compared to these two developers. I think it might be beneficial to shoot the same image multiple times in a row to do comparisons like this. Great videos, keep it up.
Absolutely! Also Ilford ID-11+ stock and 1:1. I THINK Ilford adds a bit of a restrainer to ID-11+, based on development times and results, and maybe lowers the sulfite content for less solvent effect and activity. Ilford may use a proprietary developing agent in place of metol (Elon) too.
Potassium bromide is a RESTRAINER in ANY developer and that is ALL it does. Potassium iodide is a more powerful restrainer available. Another developer in this class is Kodak D-23 either stock or 1:1. It's a one-shot developer in any case and gives brilliant highlights and very sharp negatives with neutral grain (what is in the film is what you get). The now antique Morgan & Morgan Photo Lab-Index has literally dozens of Kodak, Ilford, Ansco, ADOX and more formulea of MQ Borax "ASA" developers to try. My 1970 Edition has enough variations I could have run tests until today! I found Ilford ID-11+ 1:1 in my JOBO with continuous rotation and adjusted development times gives me excellent results with Delta 100 and 400 and Pan F in 35 and 120 and FP-4 in 4x5.
D23, my secret sauce!
Are my eyes deceiving me? The mq borax looks as if a high-pass filter effect was applied (acutance?). The edge of the petals really stood out to me.
The MQ Borax is sharper isn't it? That's the lower sulphite level.
thankyou for saying what format and lens you used for these shots, very nice negatives, am a new LF shooter, looking at exactly this film (HP-5+) as my 4x5" ammo, but was wondering if you shoot any bigger formats than 35mm? as this series is great, shows quite well the scope of the developer, and what it can do, esp. with this film. would be nice to see how the larger negatives go with this developer, and the difference as less enlarging is necissary as the film in these formats is closer to the 8x10" and 11x14" size of the prints, esp. the grain comparison, as I am interested in architecture, cars, boats etc.
I shoot 6x6 also but never done LF. I wouldn't have space for an LF enlarger so I'd have to shoot 10x8 ;)
I deliberately choose 35mm for some tests in an effort to show the developer properties at their most obvious. Know that as you increase negative size the most obvious differences diminish such as grain but others might be more obvious such as acutance and micro-contrast. For my best photographs I use MF because I like the compromise of portability and image quality, especially with slow film like FP4+ and PANF.
Do you think that Adox MQ Borax would give pleasing mid tones when photographing a soft low contrast landscape using Hp5+.
I would like a good separation of tones without the scene looking flat. Extending development to gain more contrast may kill the mood of the scene. So what film developer would you recommend for photographing landscapes on a I believe the Scottish term is a "dricht day in the hills".
Driech?
I would not use MQ Borax for such a scene but much prefer a pyro developer when looking for the best in delicate tonality. If I used HP5 for the photograph it would be 510-pyro which matches very well with this film. If I used FP4 it would be 510 or Pyrocat and if I used PanF it would be PMK or an even better developer for PanF Crawley's FX15 which is rather special.
I should add D23 replenished. That would well too. Its soft working nature is a joy in the midtones and looks remarkably similar to 510-pyro, just not as sharp. For my HP5 work it's wonderful at 10 minutes with agitation every 30 seconds. Fine grain with good separation in Z3-8. I've sung its praises often. I have a photograph somewhere of some tomatoes in my greenhouse on an overcast day and the tonal quality is sublime.
Hm, this might have a slight edge over D76 in price as well, 1l d76 + 1l replenisher vs 1l Adox borax mq (aka fr2) + 1l replenisher would be the same in borax and metol, but quite a bit lower in sulfite (-40g) and lower in hydroquinone (-3.5g), at the cost of just 0.5g of KBr extra.
def not a large sum, but if it can even be comparably good at a slight discount, that's a slightly superior overall result
An interesting angle I hadn't really thought of. Thanks Bioy!
I've read that this formula is best used in a replenishment regimen? If used replenished, what is the shelf life of the stock and replenishment solutions? Thanks.
Hi Alan. At least 6 months if you use glass or PET bottles and squirt a little butane in after use. I've replenished with this for over a year.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, John. Does this formula suffer from the contrast increase over time from storage like D-76?
Unfortunately, yes. Stay tuned for D76 type developers that don't 😉
Can the Kodak D76 developer successfully develop paper in the darkroom?!
Not well
@@PictorialPlanet I think that Kodak’s recipe for film is to add borax with the recipe. The development of paper may be slow, while the development of film may take minutes. As for paper, it is with the recipe, sodium carbonate, which makes the process quick, perhaps two minutes or less. The recipe is the same. The difference is borax for film and carbonate for paper. I hope I did not make a mistake. This is what I understood from reading the internet pages, and I am not an expert.
@abohosamabohosam4178 compare Kodak D72 paper developer to D76 film developer and you'll see the differences. It's rare to get a film developer that develops paper at all well.
@@PictorialPlanet Well, I understand you. The main reason for my question was that I have a shipment coming from Kodak D 76 Developer in the amount of 1 liter to develop some 35mm B&W film, and I have some paper. I wanted to try, maybe it will work, but is it possible to add a teaspoon of carbonate, in another small separate container? From the developer, would it be possible to somewhat succeed, by completing some publications, to save money, thank you،
How to packaging for selling it?