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Brake Fluid Change/Bleeding Made Wicked Simple| DIY | How to do it yourself | One Person Job
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2021
- Welcome back to the channel! In this video we'll test out the Allstar Performance brake bleeding bottle with a built-in check valve! It's designed to be a one-man brake bleeding operation and I'm amazed! I tested it on the rear caliper of my 2007 Acura TSX.
Works as described and I'll walk you through how to properly do it on your own. You can find the bottle here: www.amazon.com...
Stock bleed valve on the 2004 to 2007 TSX is 10mm
DOT 3 Fluid is listed as the fluid of choice and you can find that at any auto parts store
Warning: Do not let the fluid reservoir run dry. Keep checking fluid level during/after bleeding each caliper.
#brakefluid #BrakeFlush #DIY
Excellent video. Thank you
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. I do have a question, why do you turn on the car to press on the brake pedal? I bleed my brakes without turning on the car?
Do you have to crank the engine? Does the brake fluid not get pumped properly if the engine is off?
Mostly depends on the manufacturer and equipment on the car but most cars (early 2000s and beyond) will have various sensors and abs pumps that will need the ignition to be on in order for the fluid to pass through properly. Most new cars have capability to allow advance scan tools to turn on/off these pumps without the need to even push the brake pedal. Of course, a technician will still have to open and close the valve on each caliper. I hope this helps but I’ve always done it with the engine running and haven’t had any problems.
How do you know how many times to pump the brake pedal? Do you press it and the way down everything?
How can I know how much new fluid will I need? Thanks
No, don’t push the pedal all the way down to the floor. Just push as if you would brake normally. Pushing the pedal down too far may cause problem within your master cylinder. There’s a high and lo pressure valve within the master cylinder and pushing the pedal all the way down to the floor could cause a one of the seals to unseat and that’s no good. A bottle (32 oz i think) would do a few flushes no problem.
If you had a second person, they can watch the line at the bottle and let you know when they see new fluid (it should be almost clear). If you don’t, like me, I pump it about 5 to 6 times and then move onto the next caliper.
Should the bottle hose not be submirged in brake fluid at all times, to not intruduce air back into the brake system?
that's what the check valve is for.
I have four brake/rotors to replace on my civic. Should I replace all the brakes first then bleed? Or Can I replace on brake at a time and bleed as I go?
That’s certainly up to you and depends on the amount of time that you have. I would recommend doing one axle rather than just one of the pads/rotor because both pads on each axle should wear as evenly as possible. If one side is wearing lighter or heavier than the other than you know that somethings up with your caliper
Do you need any fluid in the bottle before you hook it up to the car?
No, not at all!
How do you know no air is going back into the system through the bleeer valve? Would a cheap vacuum pump on amazon work batter than just a catch bottle?
check valve only opens one way. This was like 9 bucks so if you can find something cheaper, go for it.
How much air in the system would it take for the bedal to be squishy? Would it just be a couple of bubbles or lots of bubbles?
a good amount.
Why do you turn on the car to pump the brakes? Can you not just pump the brakes with the car off?
give it a try! with modern power brake assist, you'll get a few pumps before the pedal goes stiff.