I took the little plastic caps off of mine and cut the little limiters off of them and then put them back into place on the saw because the Caps make it much easier to guide the screwdriver to make the adjustments and they'll still turn full range
Thanks. Great video. I had an issue with low speed. I purchased a complete carb and tune up kit from Amazon. Big mistake. It was super hard starting with the Amazon carb on it. I ended up putting the old carb back on but not before removing the limiter caps. I was able to make the saw run good. I also found there’s a spacer (looks like a washer) that fits in the choke plate screw hole. If it’s installed correctly, you can tighten the carb screws down without having the choke plate hang up. Run from those Amazon carburetors. They are junk.
Good video. Reading the negative comments below about carb adjusting are from fear/ lack of knowledge. There are many good videos on how to set with and without a tach. I do like to put a new spark plug in and watch the color closely. Thanks and have a good one👍
Glad to see those caps do come out. Someone was trying to tell me that it takes some special too pffff .. .i need to richen all my saws up asap. A bunch of echos landscaping and chainsaws .
The stock adjustment range is perfect for a long life engine. You have gone beyond this range. Soon your piston will be scored all to hell. My CS 305 is 25 years old and is still running strong on the stock settings. If you demand more power, get a saw with a larger displacement engine.
I agree with you. Just according to the sound of the engine to adjust the carburetor is not an enough good way. Because H may be adjusted too high and exceed the best range. Echo company emphasizes the opinion in the manual. If you do that, it may damage the engine.
You don't have to pull the carb. Shine a flashlight down inside the adjustment hole. With your small screwdriver line the tabs on the plastic piece up with the slots. Gently screw a 3 inch screw into the middle just a couple threads and your can pull them out. Just make sure the plastic didn't turn when you put the screw in the middle. Little finesse but you don't have to takenit apart.
Dude i worked 37 years on saws and never once left a carb loose ( you got two loose screws) ... I bought an echo like that for 30.00 it was running like a poulan with the lines hooked up backward.... and i have never seen a carb ( certified sthil mech) with an outlet on the front???? but the guy i got it off of ???? i will reverse the pump lines and try it ... ohh yeah the plastic inserts were to keep people from adjusting the carbs themselves .. They only turn so far .... And i retired because of ethanol a 2 stroke killer!!
Once the carb starts wearing out you have to remove the plastic caps and make adjustments. The caps are there to get you to take it to a shop to pay money just to get it adjusted.
@@LonnieJohnson1 it's not the carb wearing out it is the amount of pull from the rings on the upstroke to pull the correct amount of gas mixture under the piston... Ethanol will not stay mixed with the gas ( grain alcohol and petroleum) so the compression can go way down from a short time of trying to burn ethanol ... and you have to open the low screw to compensate for the smaller amount the reduced pull of the upstroke.. I retired because of ethanol... but kept a house full of saws!!!
@@LonnieJohnson1 heck you don't know where i can get a back replacement kit???? and i do not want the Frankenstein model.. LOL... I can use a saw for over 15 minutes and 3 pain pills
High speed is 1 and1/4 turn open from the close position and low speed is about 1 and 1/2 open from the close position. That should be a good starting point. The low side is for the idle, get it set and go from there.
I have the chain oilier adjusted to its highest level were it will put out as much oil as it can to help the chain, you can see the oil on the ground as it's pumped on the chain while the saw is running.
You don't need the break on. I've cut and worked on chainsaws way before the break was invented. Thanks for the comment because you are thinking safety first. Cool!
Might as well rebuild at least the metering and fuel pump diaphragms while you have that carb out. You have the high needle set way too lean. It needs to 4 cycle at WOT and clean up when you start cutting.
+eriqq1 I have never checked the RPM and I know it needs to be between 10,500 and11,500 RPM’s I just tune it by ear and use it. I have never had a problem with any of my saws. Thanks for the info.
my echo starts and as I try to start it , italmost whistles thru the fuel system it runs a few seconds then it seemingly runs out of gas tried replacing fuel liner primer ball even removed that all together same results
I'm gonna try that then I got the saw from the salvage yard like two years ago now it had been completely dismantled and the only parts not there were the bar studs I used all thread that fit have used the saw for this whole time and someone put a foreign substance in my fuel can while I was away visiting my sick mother. I didn't know it it just kept on acting up I cleaned out carb then put the same gas it it I got different carbs and just kept putting the bad gas right back in I love this old saw and am too poor to replace it. Thanks for the tip and I will try the strategy asap
gpb if you were a chainsaw mechanic you wouldn’t say close the high valve a little because that would make it leaner. Opening the valve makes it richer
I took the little plastic caps off of mine and cut the little limiters off of them and then put them back into place on the saw because the Caps make it much easier to guide the screwdriver to make the adjustments and they'll still turn full range
Thanks. Great video. I had an issue with low speed. I purchased a complete carb and tune up kit from Amazon. Big mistake. It was super hard starting with the Amazon carb on it. I ended up putting the old carb back on but not before removing the limiter caps. I was able to make the saw run good. I also found there’s a spacer (looks like a washer) that fits in the choke plate screw hole. If it’s installed correctly, you can tighten the carb screws down without having the choke plate hang up. Run from those Amazon carburetors. They are junk.
Your welcome and thanks.
Good video. Reading the negative comments below about carb adjusting are from fear/ lack of knowledge. There are many good videos on how to set with and without a tach. I do like to put a new spark plug in and watch the color closely. Thanks and have a good one👍
Thanks and your welcome.
Your direction on repairing this chainsaw inspired me to rebuild mine. Thank you~~
Cool! your welcome.
at 3:36 , You should fasten the screws to avoid false air intake. If the choke won't move after fastening the washers are probably missing.
+eriqq1 I have to watch when I tighten the nut because the nut can be tightened up on the washer and make it not work.
Glad to see those caps do come out. Someone was trying to tell me that it takes some special too pffff .. .i need to richen all my saws up asap. A bunch of echos landscaping and chainsaws .
You need to richen-it up alittle bit so its 4-stroking cause the setting you have it on is lean. That will burn up a good saw.
The stock adjustment range is perfect for a long life engine. You have gone beyond this range. Soon your piston will be scored all to hell. My CS 305 is 25 years old and is still running strong on the stock settings. If you demand more power, get a saw with a larger displacement engine.
I hasn't fail me yet.
I agree with you. Just according to the sound of the engine to adjust the carburetor is not an enough good way. Because H may be adjusted too high and exceed the best range. Echo company emphasizes the opinion in the manual. If you do that, it may damage the engine.
You don't have to pull the carb. Shine a flashlight down inside the adjustment hole. With your small screwdriver line the tabs on the plastic piece up with the slots. Gently screw a 3 inch screw into the middle just a couple threads and your can pull them out. Just make sure the plastic didn't turn when you put the screw in the middle. Little finesse but you don't have to takenit apart.
Thanks for the info.
Dude i worked 37 years on saws and never once left a carb loose ( you got two loose screws) ... I bought an echo like that for 30.00 it was running like a poulan with the lines hooked up backward.... and i have never seen a carb ( certified sthil mech) with an outlet on the front???? but the guy i got it off of ???? i will reverse the pump lines and try it ... ohh yeah the plastic inserts were to keep people from adjusting the carbs themselves .. They only turn so far .... And i retired because of ethanol a 2 stroke killer!!
Once the carb starts wearing out you have to remove the plastic caps and make adjustments. The caps are there to get you to take it to a shop to pay money just to get it adjusted.
@@LonnieJohnson1 it's not the carb wearing out it is the amount of pull from the rings on the upstroke to pull the correct amount of gas mixture under the piston... Ethanol will not stay mixed with the gas ( grain alcohol and petroleum) so the compression can go way down from a short time of trying to burn ethanol ... and you have to open the low screw to compensate for the smaller amount the reduced pull of the upstroke.. I retired because of ethanol... but kept a house full of saws!!!
I got 3 good saws right know.
@@LonnieJohnson1 heck you don't know where i can get a back replacement kit???? and i do not want the Frankenstein model.. LOL... I can use a saw for over 15 minutes and 3 pain pills
I hear ya! I have a Stihl 290 and it kills the back.
Hi I have a chainsaw "Echo CS 3000" can you tell me please what is the carburetor setting (how many laps of keye)? Thanks!
High speed is 1 and1/4 turn open from the close position and low speed is about 1 and 1/2 open from the close position. That should be a good starting point. The low side is for the idle, get it set and go from there.
@@LonnieJohnson1 Thank you very much!!!
You're welcome
I noticed that your saw drips oil too, is that normal? i even have my oiler screw to the lightest amount.
I have the chain oilier adjusted to its highest level were it will put out as much oil as it can to help the chain, you can see the oil on the ground as it's pumped on the chain while the saw is running.
but how do you get the fuel line re-attached.?...that looks like the hard part
I used a pair of hemostats with a long nose.
saws runnin lean sir.
Yea, but it runs good...I'll adjust it as it needs it thanks for the info...
Are we supposed to guess which screws your turning???
You have a high and a low setting, what do you need to know?
Do you know roughly how many turns out from H and L needles?
Low is 1 and 1/2 turns and High is 1 and 1/4 turns
Jim Mitchell
I’m not not the best chainsaw mechanic but l do know how to safely start one. Did anyone else notice the chain break wasn’t on.
You don't need the break on. I've cut and worked on chainsaws way before the break was invented. Thanks for the comment because you are thinking safety first. Cool!
Can't hear any 4 stocking. You might be a little lean.
When I run it, it screams. If it ever breaks I will fix it. Thanks
+Lee Copland It's between 13,000 and 13,200 RPM. Too lean...
Might as well rebuild at least the metering and fuel pump diaphragms while you have that carb out. You have the high needle set way too lean. It needs to 4 cycle at WOT and clean up when you start cutting.
It's cheaper to buy a carburetor than to rebuild it.
max RPM is 11500 for this saw, this sounds above it. Thx for the vid though.
+eriqq1 I have never checked the RPM and I know it needs to be between 10,500 and11,500 RPM’s I just tune it by ear and use it. I have never had a problem with any of my saws. Thanks for the info.
*****
As long as you hear some four-stroke out of the cut it's ok. These reed-valve engines are not meant for high RPMs
+LonnieJohnson1 It's tuned between 13,000 and 13,200 RPM, too much for a CS-3000...
does anyone can tell me where to find full service manual?
Google Echo 3000 Chainsaw PDF manual
my echo starts and as I try to start it , italmost whistles thru the fuel system it runs a few seconds then it seemingly runs out of gas tried replacing fuel liner primer ball even removed that all together same results
+Michael Dennis Try adjusting the carb. starting with the low end to make it idle properly then adjust the high end. Let me know how you do.
+Michael Dennis How did you make out. I have the same issue today. Changed primer bulb too. Frank
+hi I cleaned carb and put in new diaphram, and changed small brittle fuel line from bulb to carb, Seems to be running fine now. Frank
I'm gonna try that then I got the saw from the salvage yard like two years ago now it had been completely dismantled and the only parts not there were the bar studs I used all thread that fit have used the saw for this whole time and someone put a foreign substance in my fuel can while I was away visiting my sick mother. I didn't know it it just kept on acting up I cleaned out carb then put the same gas it it I got different carbs and just kept putting the bad gas right back in I love this old saw and am too poor to replace it. Thanks for the tip and I will try the strategy asap
+Michael Dennis great saw that's why I keep bringing it back from the dead. good luck
What's a "warsher"? :-)
The washer is a spacer for the chock so that it will move and work properly.
***** No, I know what a washer is, what's a "warsher"? (Just ribbin' ya on your Ohia accent. :-) )
It's a machine that clean people warsh there clothes in
Did not say what he adjusted
You have a high and a low. The low is for the idle and the high is for the top end.
as a chainsaw mechanic i can tell you this is too lean... close the high valve a little bit...
gpb if you were a chainsaw mechanic you wouldn’t say close the high valve a little because that would make it leaner. Opening the valve makes it richer
You mean open it mr. mechanic.