This resin looks fantastic... Have you ever tried using WhipMix FastFire 15, which is a Dental investment that has a very fast burnout cycle? I am looking for an investment with a fast burnout cycle so I can vacuum-cast Zamak for more of a production cycle using small burnout ovens... Zamak casts around 830*F so it's low temp.
Have you tried to do engraved and embossed details? If you want to have some fun next time, instead of using a heat gun or a flame, you can throw some parts in a small oven and monitor the temperature. Make sure to shield the coils so that the resins do not get directly irradiated by IR.
Hello Clear Mind Jewellery! Can you store the BlueCast X-One in the vat in dark room for months without it hardening? I'm in between getting the Power Resins Dark or Bluecast X-One, Thanks for your time;)
Hello, thank you for the explanatory video. I am a beginner, and I poured silver, but the result has a lot of pits and irregularities, and I don't know why. Can I please have the combustion program cycle in the furnace
Here is our video about Lost Wax and Lost Resin Casting Burnout Process ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html It’s hard to say why your silver cast didn’t work. It could be anything for your metal temperature at time of pour, the post processing on your prints, etc.
Does anyone know if this burns out cleanly in a platinum cast? Every resin we have tried is fine with silver, usually fine with gold but god-awful with Platinum. Great vid, cheers.
We use an outside casting house for our platinum, but we've sent them models made with X-One and they've come back just as flawless as if we send them a regular carved wax.
We print in X-One pretty often, and definitely love it. Our current go-to is the power resin wax though, as we get better performance with it in the lower temp ranges needed for stone-in-place casting. I can concur though, you can use this with any investment. We mostly use R&R Solitaire. I would say using a raft is probably the best way to go when printing with this stuff. Bed adhesion seems to be a pretty common issue. Also, just a quick thanks for these castable resin reviews! We've done our fair share of trial and error (we've got 3 different resin printers, with a 4th on the way), so it's nice to see videos that seem to end up at the same conclusions we did! 👍
@@Noyobqushlar1 Really all of them are great. It just depends on what you need. I personally like their Wax resin. It's a light blue color. It can burn out at lower temperatures, so stone-in-place casting is possible.
Hi, when i use blue cast zone with an Elgoo mars 3. When i remove the support it seems like I have a lot of marks and seems orribile. After curing I try to sand it manually but it takes a lot of time. How you remove marks from support that you remove? Help me please :)
Which burnout cycle did you use? My Prestige Optima used to have a slower ramp phase recommended for resins, but now they seem to recommend cranking up to 600C immediately, even preheating the oven.
We follow the standardized burnout recommended by R&R for Plasticast as outlined in our burnout video. We put the flask in cold. With how "wax like" X One is I wouldn't worry to much about following high heat resin burnout schedules.
Im also using optima now i have noticed slow ramp temp gives bad results what i dont understand is how its afecting investment maybe chemicals. What ramps are you using with xone and optima.
We had to change the tilt time back. The resin is too soft/brittle for the faster speeds. This is something we have had to do with another castable resin as well so its not X One specific.
hi everyone I am just working with x one and a question is about supports on model,when and how the best way take it off supports from model,before cleaning or after cleaning,just breaking them or gently trying to cut thems. thanks
Hi Clear mind jewellery Another very good review. Have tried to lost wax cast some other resins in the past and had poor results, I hope that this resin will help me get some better results for my customers needing brass parts. One point I like to ask, Does the wax adhere to the blue cast X one models well, and hold them on the tree securely, some other resins need big heavy feed sprues to increase the surface area to allow them to stick to the main tree trunk properly, or the slightest knock they break off. A bit of a worry when investing.
We haven't had issues with a variety of resins once utilizing a sticky wax to prep a printed in place spru, and attaching to the main column. But yes Bluecast Xone will stick more.
Hi everybody. I've just bought the X-one and X-10 to prusa sl1s, can anyone send me the settings? Prusa Sl1s has 2 standard settings from bluecast are but not the same of this one
Xone is 25 and 7. We still need to update the list with the X10 settings for the SL1S upgrade (but we don't use X10 much anymore). clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
@@ClearMindJewellery my last question, sorry for a dumb question lol: I have the CW1 washmachine. To preheat the resin to 30⁰c there is a recommended time to set in machine or need I just scan the bottle with some IR thermometer to measure it?
We use Plasticast with our reviews to keep the process as similar as possible. It will work just as well with Optima (link below). You might be able to try a regular wax use investment but we haven't tested that yet. pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag#?aff=24
do you think this will work with eleegoo mars pro? I was going to purchase zero from power resins , but every time I try to purchase i get an error..if not what other cartable resin would you recommend?
We use this resin on our Elegoo Mars 2 (with the monochrome LCD), and it works beautifully. The settings they provide on their website work really well right out of the gate, with basically no tuning necessary.
@@cristiandrimba4562 No. Or at least, I'm not aware that the Mars 2 has that function. The room it's in stays at a pretty consistent 75 or so degrees though.
Hi, I am there too and I have had the same problems as you. The pieces did not remain attached to the base but to the fep and the prints failed. Try leveling the plate and doing the Z0 again. Increase the time of the first layers to 20 seconds and use large supports with the part in contact above 0.40mm. Use perforated rafts (in chitubox you can use exagonal patterns). Distribute the pieces more towards the sides of the fep and heat the resin to about 30 ° if the plate is cold. Let me know ... I still have problems with washing anyway. Bye
That's the printer we use for this resin. Generally speaking we don't have any problems. Occasionally we'll have adhesion problems, but a quick re-slice with larger bottom supports usually does the trick. Heck sometimes just cleaning and restarting works. This stuff is a little finicky to print, but when it does, it's wonderful.
We did a full workflow overview for Prusa when they started selling XOne that you should look at ruclips.net/video/Kc7iJ6AwZeg/видео.html If you're doing the same things as outlined in that video then you can drop us a DM on instagram (link in bio). We also have a membership program for on-going assistance: ruclips.net/channel/UCr7WVfyXuUogXyEEn1dmWDAjoin
Hi, I have a problem with this resin. When I wash the piece in ethyl alcohol (90 ° or 94 °) the piece changes color becoming a little lighter. However, when I blow the pieces with air and let them dry some layers become very light in color while others remain dark. I tried to increase the time in alcohol and I tried to use the UV lamp but the result doesn't change. Do you have any suggestions? thank you!
We use 95% ethyl alchohol (with 5% ISP), approximately 10 minute bath. If the layers are having a visible difference when chemical curing that makes me wonder if the initial cure times were sufficient. We have had dark areas at the bottoms of our prints (as they may sit on the bottom of the wash tank), or hard to reach areas, but never along layer lines. -Shannon
Hello Guys, I am new to the sla printing and casting game. I would like to know if there is any resin that can be burned out with standard wax wich is used in Jewelry workshops ? I saw that you have a whole bunch of videos about different Resins so i thought you might know this :) Greetings from Germany, Julius
Multi material casts are really common for our studio. Whether multiple resins or waxes & resins. You just need to use an investment that works for resins.
@@ClearMindJewellery Wow that was a quick answer for a Sunday :) ok cool. Wich resin do you guys think is the best for multi material cast ? After I watched this video, Bluecast sounds pretty good to me haha
@@juliusschubi3140 I’ve never had nor heard of an incomplete cast due to issues with the materials being cast together so go off of whatever is best for your workflow. clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
Hi mate, first of all you are a legend for doing those reviews and creating the resin ranked list. Due to the price difference - would you prefer bluecast to power resins?? : ) Kind regards from Berlin
@@ClearMindJewellery Do you cure the objects with UV light after the ethanol bath and the airgun? I have a Mercury Plus 2n1 Station from Elegoo - How long do you recommend to cure the print with UV light?
hi there I got a elegoo mars 3,could you be so kind somehow writing me this settings for print .I can't understand why my printing always craks and to much issue with it .
Thanks!
Hello brother can u please help me to find x1 resin setting for sm8k machine
This resin looks fantastic... Have you ever tried using WhipMix FastFire 15, which is a Dental investment that has a very fast burnout cycle? I am looking for an investment with a fast burnout cycle so I can vacuum-cast Zamak for more of a production cycle using small burnout ovens... Zamak casts around 830*F so it's low temp.
Have you tried to do engraved and embossed details? If you want to have some fun next time, instead of using a heat gun or a flame, you can throw some parts in a small oven and monitor the temperature. Make sure to shield the coils so that the resins do not get directly irradiated by IR.
Hey do you need to make specific support/casting sprue for this resin? Or just make regular support?
Don’t make the support heads smaller then 0.4mm. But other than that you should be fine.
Hello Clear Mind Jewellery! Can you store the BlueCast X-One in the vat in dark room for months without it hardening? I'm in between getting the Power Resins Dark or Bluecast X-One, Thanks for your time;)
Hello, thank you for the explanatory video. I am a beginner, and I poured silver, but the result has a lot of pits and irregularities, and I don't know why. Can I please have the combustion program cycle in the furnace
Here is our video about Lost Wax and Lost Resin Casting Burnout Process
ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
It’s hard to say why your silver cast didn’t work. It could be anything for your metal temperature at time of pour, the post processing on your prints, etc.
Does anyone know if this burns out cleanly in a platinum cast? Every resin we have tried is fine with silver, usually fine with gold but god-awful with Platinum. Great vid, cheers.
We use an outside casting house for our platinum, but we've sent them models made with X-One and they've come back just as flawless as if we send them a regular carved wax.
We print in X-One pretty often, and definitely love it. Our current go-to is the power resin wax though, as we get better performance with it in the lower temp ranges needed for stone-in-place casting.
I can concur though, you can use this with any investment. We mostly use R&R Solitaire.
I would say using a raft is probably the best way to go when printing with this stuff. Bed adhesion seems to be a pretty common issue.
Also, just a quick thanks for these castable resin reviews! We've done our fair share of trial and error (we've got 3 different resin printers, with a 4th on the way), so it's nice to see videos that seem to end up at the same conclusions we did! 👍
Which one do you recommend for jewelers of this brand of POWER RESINS, for example, or .
@@Noyobqushlar1 Really all of them are great. It just depends on what you need. I personally like their Wax resin. It's a light blue color. It can burn out at lower temperatures, so stone-in-place casting is possible.
@@themaaddmonkeyHi. resin wax?
@@themaaddmonkey resin wax of Asiga?
You must have good experience to answer my question. Which cast feels better? Resin or wax?
Excellent review! Thank you so much for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
hello how are you can you tell me if blue cast x one can be use with the form lab 3?
Formlabs is closed ecosystem as far as I know. So…no.
Hi, when i use blue cast zone with an Elgoo mars 3. When i remove the support it seems like I have a lot of marks and seems orribile. After curing I try to sand it manually but it takes a lot of time. How you remove marks from support that you remove? Help me please :)
Which burnout cycle did you use? My Prestige Optima used to have a slower ramp phase recommended for resins, but now they seem to recommend cranking up to 600C immediately, even preheating the oven.
We follow the standardized burnout recommended by R&R for Plasticast as outlined in our burnout video.
We put the flask in cold. With how "wax like" X One is I wouldn't worry to much about following high heat resin burnout schedules.
Im also using optima now i have noticed slow ramp temp gives bad results what i dont understand is how its afecting investment maybe chemicals. What ramps are you using with xone and optima.
Did I miss it in the video: Are you sharing theX-one resin profile for the SL1S?
Oh, and did you try changing the tilt to the slower speed setting?
25 and 7 but they stated in their instruction that the exposure time can change up to 30% with model size.
We had to change the tilt time back. The resin is too soft/brittle for the faster speeds. This is something we have had to do with another castable resin as well so its not X One specific.
hi everyone I am just working with x one and a question is about supports on model,when and how the best way take it off supports from model,before cleaning or after cleaning,just breaking them or gently trying to cut thems. thanks
We do the post UV cure and then use a scalpel to cut off the supports cleanly.
Great,thank you very much.
hello, please tell me what settings to print in the asiga printer
Hi Clear mind jewellery Another very good review.
Have tried to lost wax cast some other resins in the past and had poor results, I hope that this resin will help me get some better results for my customers needing brass parts. One point I like to ask, Does the wax adhere to the blue cast X one models well, and hold them on the tree securely, some other resins need big heavy feed sprues to increase the surface area to allow them to stick to the main tree trunk properly, or the slightest knock they break off. A bit of a worry when investing.
We haven't had issues with a variety of resins once utilizing a sticky wax to prep a printed in place spru, and attaching to the main column. But yes Bluecast Xone will stick more.
Thanks for posting these resin reviews. Really helpful.
Glad you like them!
Can uou please help me,do I need special preparation and resin before use? I tried to print and I didn't succeed, the resin had some lumps
This resin needs to be heated before printing, 30.C. All resins should be thoroughly shaken before each use.
It will work on Phrozen sonic mighty?
Hi! Thank you for review, I just wanna ask - did you use customizer? If no, I don’t understand how it was possible to print filigree :)
04:26 until 05:40 we did not use customizer
Thanx for the video. I was a little confused by the sudden change of fingernail styling. 😂
Clear Mind is a team of two. You may occasionally speak with Shannon, or see her, without really realizing it...unless she's wearing nail polish.
Hi everybody. I've just bought the X-one and X-10 to prusa sl1s, can anyone send me the settings? Prusa Sl1s has 2 standard settings from bluecast are but not the same of this one
Xone is 25 and 7. We still need to update the list with the X10 settings for the SL1S upgrade (but we don't use X10 much anymore). clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
@@ClearMindJewellery my last question, sorry for a dumb question lol: I have the CW1 washmachine. To preheat the resin to 30⁰c there is a recommended time to set in machine or need I just scan the bottle with some IR thermometer to measure it?
thanks for your review ! what type of investment did you use for casting ?
We use Plasticast with our reviews to keep the process as similar as possible.
It will work just as well with Optima (link below). You might be able to try a regular wax use investment but we haven't tested that yet.
pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag#?aff=24
do you think this will work with eleegoo mars pro? I was going to purchase zero from power resins , but every time I try to purchase i get an error..if not what other cartable resin would you recommend?
We use this resin on our Elegoo Mars 2 (with the monochrome LCD), and it works beautifully. The settings they provide on their website work really well right out of the gate, with basically no tuning necessary.
@@themaaddmonkey did you use heating during printing with the Elegoo?
@@cristiandrimba4562 No. Or at least, I'm not aware that the Mars 2 has that function. The room it's in stays at a pretty consistent 75 or so degrees though.
hello does thid resin work with the elegoo mars pro 2? i am trying it with all kinds of settings but keep getting failed prints
Hi, I am there too and I have had the same problems as you. The pieces did not remain attached to the base but to the fep and the prints failed. Try leveling the plate and doing the Z0 again. Increase the time of the first layers to 20 seconds and use large supports with the part in contact above 0.40mm. Use perforated rafts (in chitubox you can use exagonal patterns).
Distribute the pieces more towards the sides of the fep and heat the resin to about 30 ° if the plate is cold. Let me know ... I still have problems with washing anyway. Bye
That's the printer we use for this resin. Generally speaking we don't have any problems. Occasionally we'll have adhesion problems, but a quick re-slice with larger bottom supports usually does the trick. Heck sometimes just cleaning and restarting works. This stuff is a little finicky to print, but when it does, it's wonderful.
Is there any shrinkage when casting?
Is ethanol same as IPA
Anycubic Photon D2 DLP 3d Good morning. Can you make a video with this particular printer? it is considered to be the best printer for jewelry !!!!!
I have some problems with it if you could help me i will apreciatte
We did a full workflow overview for Prusa when they started selling XOne that you should look at ruclips.net/video/Kc7iJ6AwZeg/видео.html
If you're doing the same things as outlined in that video then you can drop us a DM on instagram (link in bio).
We also have a membership program for on-going assistance: ruclips.net/channel/UCr7WVfyXuUogXyEEn1dmWDAjoin
can share withe us its furncet chart
Please where I can buy that resin?
www.bluecast.info/resellers
Hi, I have a problem with this resin. When I wash the piece in ethyl alcohol (90 ° or 94 °) the piece changes color becoming a little lighter. However, when I blow the pieces with air and let them dry some layers become very light in color while others remain dark. I tried to increase the time in alcohol and I tried to use the UV lamp but the result doesn't change. Do you have any suggestions? thank you!
We use 95% ethyl alchohol (with 5% ISP), approximately 10 minute bath.
If the layers are having a visible difference when chemical curing that makes me wonder if the initial cure times were sufficient. We have had dark areas at the bottoms of our prints (as they may sit on the bottom of the wash tank), or hard to reach areas, but never along layer lines. -Shannon
Hello Guys,
I am new to the sla printing and casting game. I would like to know if there is any resin that can be burned out with standard wax wich is used in Jewelry workshops ?
I saw that you have a whole bunch of videos about different Resins so i thought you might know this :)
Greetings from Germany,
Julius
Multi material casts are really common for our studio. Whether multiple resins or waxes & resins.
You just need to use an investment that works for resins.
@@ClearMindJewellery Wow that was a quick answer for a Sunday :)
ok cool. Wich resin do you guys think is the best for multi material cast ? After I watched this video, Bluecast sounds pretty good to me haha
@@juliusschubi3140 I’ve never had nor heard of an incomplete cast due to issues with the materials being cast together so go off of whatever is best for your workflow. clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
I'm getting my SL1S tomorrow! Very excited to start printing with it. Great review - thanks for sharing.
Awesome! Excited for you. Its been really great so far for us, just have to get a little creative with the profiles as they don't have a lot yet.
Hi mate, first of all you are a legend for doing those reviews and creating the resin ranked list.
Due to the price difference - would you prefer bluecast to power resins?? : )
Kind regards from Berlin
Bluecast X-One is our personal preference, but both brands print and cast very well.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you brother :)
@@ClearMindJewellery how do you preheat the resin?
We use the CW1 as it has a pre-heat setting. However some bottles don't fit and so we use a hot water bath.
@@ClearMindJewellery Do you cure the objects with UV light after the ethanol bath and the airgun?
I have a Mercury Plus 2n1 Station from Elegoo - How long do you recommend to cure the print with UV light?
Wow it will be great using it with a Elegoo 3 4k.
do you know settings for elego mars 3 + x-one resin? if anyone know please reply
Hi, i know it. if you need i can send you a jpg!! I Meet this morning the productor :)
hi there I got a elegoo mars 3,could you be so kind somehow writing me this settings for print .I can't understand why my printing always craks and to much issue with it .
Would be nice if it could be dissolved chemically so it could be removed prior to burnout
It burns out super well though even with a 6hr burnout. So other than kiln life or reduction in fumes I don't really see the need.
-Shannon
Thanks!
Welcome!