Good day, I would like to ask at what temperature is the pouring done and when it is taken out of the oven to melt? in silver, 14k and 18k gold. What temperature should I use when the metal melts?
Hi! Congratulations for your channel! It’s very helpful 😊 Please, could you tell me which problem did you have with the kiln getting too hot for the first batch? Was it an error with the thermometer? Or just an error setting the top temperature? How did you find it? Thank you so much in advance 🤗
I am impressed with the results for not having used Siraya Techs post printing process. I would be interested to see the results if you jump through their hoops. Printing at 30C resin temps Slow retraction speeds Curing Vegtable oil bath to remove any air from the resin I wonder how much of an improvement would be had with that process. Great vid BTW.
At the time of this video their post processing hoops weren't available. We have been using it since then however and an oxygen barrier is a must with this material to get the best casting results.
Beautiful video. What setting do you use for medium type jewelry. Using siraya tech cast. Trial and error on chitubox, also have elegoo mar 3 printer. Need some help, could you please tell what setting you are using. Apprecite any help, grandpa Fred. 0:060:06
First of all, your resin reviews are awsome!!!! Thanks a lot for sharing all those valuable info with us. Have you tried this resin with the new Phrozen sonic 8k mini with thinner layer thickness (i.e. 20um or even thinner)? Also, do you post a full printing specs for the resin you review?
Printer settings and a few other things get added to this list clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list best viewed on desktop. We haven't had a chance to try it on a phrozen machine.
Ok, say you don’t have a vacu-cast machine, I’m aware of centrifugal casting as an option also, but I wonder if can you just use gravity to cast? Similar to how you would vent a sand cast piece where you pour in one hole until the metal comes out the vent hole, couldn’t you sprue up an investment with a well for the metal and a vent hole and then after the burn out, I’m thinking I could put the investment mold into a silver furnace, place the metal into the well and just let the metal come up to melt temp and it should just fill the void. Would this work? I feel like it seems simple enough but how come nobody is doing it, maybe it would have issues? I’d really like to know your thoughts..
Simply using gravity is a tried and true method of casting but it doesn't work well for metals that can't stay fluid for long periods of time. The thing that you're describing is actually exactly how it works for Glass Casting, but in metal terms the closest would be Steam Casting. Where you burnout the flask as per a normal lost wax process, but melt the metal directly on top of the flask while hot, then use a cup or something similar to push the metal down with air pressure.
This is a video on the burnout process we use: ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html We have not done a video of our curing process yet. We use the CW1 which is pretty straightforward.
Yes it is. We use bronze across the majority of our testing. We haven't found much difference ourselves. Thanks for joining the membership program btw, make sure you check out the community tab for the discord link.
Good evening. The surfaces to which the connectors are attached. After printing, they turn out to be thicker than it was modeled in the exocad. For example, the wall should be 1 mm thick and 2 mm comes out of the print. The remaining walls without connectors are normal. What could it be? What settings to tweak?
9:30 you said the fine part's best spot is "right on the very top", and that it "degraded as it got further up". should it be closest to the hole or furthest from the hole?
You want the hottest metal to hit the smallest parts first, so you want them at the top of the tree while you are spruing, the farthest away from where you pour in the metal. As the metal will hit the top and back up and fill until it creates the button.
Our burnout schedule you mean? We use the same standard burnout for all resins with Plasticast investment > ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html&lc=Ugyme9_cIE2EPuwvEFZ4AaABAg
We made the tongs ourselves. Been thinking about doing a kickstarter or something for a production run as everyone loves them. Yes, we can hold from above or below the flange.
Wondering, what was that powder you poured on the melted metal? I have tried this resin and my investment broke too. Maybe it was my kiln then. Thanks man; nice review :)
At 07:02 that is borax to reduce the amount of oxidization on the button. If your investment cracked it could be your kiln temperatures, but first check that the investment you're using is compatible with 3d prints.
Hello friend, sorry for the inconvenience, but when I bought the resin, they didn't give me any parameters for its use, by chance. Could you help me with that?
siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download Siraya are developing a decent settings and user guide manual, which we have contributed to, you can take a look at the link above and come back if you have any questions.
Hello, I'm just getting into investment casting, but I can't seem to find investment powder without a hefty shipping price tag. So I just wanted to ask you guys since you're also in Canada where I could find investment powder in canada for a decent price?
Because we are in Ontario we drive down to Toronto to Gesswein and get 4 boxes at a time. If they don't carry the brand you like you can also get investment from European Design. Depending on where you are there is also Lacy West. Not sure about other suppliers across Canada.
We don't post cure the Siraya just wash & dry with the CW1. Our ranked resin list has which resins we post cure: clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list This is our CW1 unboxing: ruclips.net/video/dIAUg35rtXQ/видео.html
I have a Photon Mono SE and when I print I can see some lines of the layers all over the print I solve it by sanding the model but I would like to know if there is a way to not see the height of the layer. In parameter the layer height is set to 0.05 by default.
They generally have different purposes. Purple is more structurally sound but bigger things don't always cast that well. With blue it's harder to print but small sculptures cast great.
Ok I'm hoping you will have time to answer my question I'm having trouble getting anything to print with Sirius tech cast purple. I'm using an elegoo mars pro not the mars pro 2 any suggestions for printer settings for me
Start with the recommended and develop an exposure setting that is more suited to the size of the models you will be printing. siraya.tech/pages/cast-resin-user-guide
Does anyone know the shrink rate usually 1 percent but I thought I read somewhere it was 6 percent can you confirm? Also if anyone is reading. Siriya tech purple cast mars elegoo pro 15 seconds exposure printed very well I'm still running tests to fine tune but just wondering as I'm printing 6mm cuban link with small stones 6 in each link
It is stated to have some "wax-like" compound although True-Blue in our opinion seems to have more. Siraya does not seem to advertise with percentages as other brands do. Its a bit of a misnomer that resins have wax. Which is why we always try to say wax-like instead.
It depends on what you mean by a collapse. If people are having a hard time casting resin prints with embossed text for example, and are getting filled in areas and collapsed areas around the lettering, we would definitely recommend boric acid. But note that a power washer is recommended as it will harden the investment drastically and make it difficult to devest. If you are using siraya purple and have yet to do your post cure in glycerin I would do that first before experimenting with boric acid.
Resinworks does not state that 200 or 400 series requires glycerin, only to be dry and cure for a minimum of 45 minutes under a 65 watt UV source. I have a heated drier/cure station with 55-60 watt output, we cured them for 1 hour.
We treat resin and wax the same in terms of the metal density equation. They don't have enough difference in weight to cause issues. ruclips.net/video/zTOTIhmVQ-8/видео.html
We use R&R Plasticast or Prestige Optima, depends on what we have in stock. pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag#?aff=24
Both R&R Plasticast and Prestige Optima are investments meant for 3D prints, plastics, etc. R&R SC20 is a more general investment for wax, not recommended for 3d prints. BTW unless you have a Projet "level" 3D printer it's not really printing"wax".
Hi, I am using siraya castable true blue and I have trouble connecting the resin print to the classic mold that you are using it is also blue wax, one is very soft and melts with a soldering iron, while one is much harder, I could not melt it with a soldering iron, so they somehow do not connect to each other. How do ı solve this is this the purple resin do the job?
We already answered this 2 days ago when you posted it under a RUclips short of ours. See same answer: “The idea with spruing 3d prints is not to melt the 3d print (as it won't melt) but to add wax to the print as a "second skin" and then attach the waxed area to the wax spru. If you are having a heard time with that you can find "sticky waxes" that have more of an adherence to the prints. You can also do more mechanical techniques like printing your spru in place on your item and then making a small whole in your central spru to stick the feeder sprus into and then smoothing around it.”
Here is our video on metal density calculation: ruclips.net/video/zTOTIhmVQ-8/видео.html There isn't enough difference between the density of wax and the density of resin to to be overly concerned. We find if you stick with the "traditional" process of adding 10% for a button it takes care of any difference (if there is one).
Not sure if you mean print tempering or burnout. If you mean print tempering, to combat thermal expansion, we don't. As a good resin and good investment choice means you shouldn't need to temper your prints. If you mean burnout we have a full video here: ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
Proper exposure settings and proper washing before post UV curing. How to wash and cure a print in place tree: ruclips.net/video/PrhWCL9ZCnc/видео.html Why you should have a cure and wash setup: ruclips.net/video/YvhXdmvN7Vo/видео.html
Nobody and nowhere can I find infos on the shrinkage…? How much shrinkage should be expected from their resins? I want to know how much to diablate my piece so it comes out perfect
We have a full video on our burnout schedules. The overall schedule will change with Flask size, Model size, etc ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
Would recommend checking our ranked list to find something in a similar price point with equal printing capabilities clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
Thank you, can you tell me what settings you are using for your medium casting, like the pave ring? New to 3 d printing, also have mars 3 elegoo printer. Appreciate any info. 😊
It is important for the review that we can look at the models individually. If we were producing prints for a client or studio project printing with sprus in place would be under consideration.
i have the elegoo mars pro, and that resin dont seems to work for my printer at all it giva me this half print as if something bite off the half of the print please help !!!!
Do you mean it looks bite off like at 04:07? That happened for us as a combination of tilt speed and exposure time. Its hard to discuss issues without a visual sometimes so if the issue continues I would look into joining our facebook group (facebook.com/groups/948410769062925/) or Membership based Discord (Join button under our videos).
does anyone have some tips on the best support settings for siraya tech castable resin? I how over supported my model and tried so many different exposed settings but I can not get repeatable success, my exposer is at 4 seconds, I upped it to five and it fails more frequently
When posting asking for help its best to include your machine type and what kind of failure is occurring in the print. Thanks. On the SL1 (before we upgraded to the SL1S) we were using 40sec base and 12sec layer times.
Sonic mini 4k, 6.5 cure time, 40 lift speed, 50 resolution, my issue is holes on the print closing up, I tried 4.5 exposure but it's undercuring and causing brittle failures
Desks with a semi circle cut out are common in the jewellery trade as this allows the jeweller to work into the bench and braced properly while having an area for tools or a catch for off cuts under their hands.
I saw a desk like this at Dollywood It was a copy of dolly Parton's actual office desk she wrote songs. Maybe you'll have enough of a rack when you're older in your 60's To do the desk justice
Good day, I would like to ask at what temperature is the pouring done and when it is taken out of the oven to melt?
in silver, 14k and 18k gold. What temperature should I use when the metal melts?
Hi! Congratulations for your channel! It’s very helpful 😊 Please, could you tell me which problem did you have with the kiln getting too hot for the first batch? Was it an error with the thermometer? Or just an error setting the top temperature? How did you find it? Thank you so much in advance 🤗
I am impressed with the results for not having used Siraya Techs post printing process. I would be interested to see the results if you jump through their hoops.
Printing at 30C resin temps
Slow retraction speeds
Curing
Vegtable oil bath to remove any air from the resin
I wonder how much of an improvement would be had with that process. Great vid BTW.
At the time of this video their post processing hoops weren't available. We have been using it since then however and an oxygen barrier is a must with this material to get the best casting results.
Beautiful video. What setting do you use for medium type jewelry. Using siraya tech cast. Trial and error on chitubox, also have elegoo mar 3 printer. Need some help, could you please tell what setting you are using. Apprecite any help, grandpa Fred.
0:06 0:06
Small metal part = mechanical parts in say, aluminum. Very useful for replacement parts that are no longer made
Hi, great video, one question, how was your burn cycle?
Thanks for the reviews. Could you post your settings for this resin?
Hello
Great as always
Please check the shrinkage of this resin and whether gem can be mounted on this resin before the casting step
First of all, your resin reviews are awsome!!!! Thanks a lot for sharing all those valuable info with us. Have you tried this resin with the new Phrozen sonic 8k mini with thinner layer thickness (i.e. 20um or even thinner)? Also, do you post a full printing specs for the resin you review?
Printer settings and a few other things get added to this list clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list best viewed on desktop. We haven't had a chance to try it on a phrozen machine.
@@ClearMindJewellery what about settings for a elegoo mars 2 pro
Ok, say you don’t have a vacu-cast machine, I’m aware of centrifugal casting as an option also, but I wonder if can you just use gravity to cast? Similar to how you would vent a sand cast piece where you pour in one hole until the metal comes out the vent hole, couldn’t you sprue up an investment with a well for the metal and a vent hole and then after the burn out, I’m thinking I could put the investment mold into a silver furnace, place the metal into the well and just let the metal come up to melt temp and it should just fill the void. Would this work? I feel like it seems simple enough but how come nobody is doing it, maybe it would have issues? I’d really like to know your thoughts..
Simply using gravity is a tried and true method of casting but it doesn't work well for metals that can't stay fluid for long periods of time. The thing that you're describing is actually exactly how it works for Glass Casting, but in metal terms the closest would be Steam Casting. Where you burnout the flask as per a normal lost wax process, but melt the metal directly on top of the flask while hot, then use a cup or something similar to push the metal down with air pressure.
Hello, have you cured in glycerin the siraya tech cast?
Another great video, can you please share what is your burnout schedule? Cleaning and curing process?
This is a video on the burnout process we use: ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
We have not done a video of our curing process yet. We use the CW1 which is pretty straightforward.
Great vid packed with extras like the spruing tips, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video! Is that Bronze you are casting? I get different results with Bronze vs Sterling vs Fine Silver but I still like ST Cast a lot.
Yes it is. We use bronze across the majority of our testing. We haven't found much difference ourselves.
Thanks for joining the membership program btw, make sure you check out the community tab for the discord link.
Good evening. The surfaces to which the connectors are attached. After printing, they turn out to be thicker than it was modeled in the exocad. For example, the wall should be 1 mm thick and 2 mm comes out of the print. The remaining walls without connectors are normal. What could it be? What settings to tweak?
9:30 you said the fine part's best spot is "right on the very top", and that it "degraded as it got further up". should it be closest to the hole or furthest from the hole?
You want the hottest metal to hit the smallest parts first, so you want them at the top of the tree while you are spruing, the farthest away from where you pour in the metal. As the metal will hit the top and back up and fill until it creates the button.
@@ClearMindJewellery ty
I've been eagerly anticipating this one!
Bro what temps you set your kiln to?
Hi, what melting temperature do you use for the siraya tech purple castable resin?It doesn't work very well for me, I work with gold
Our burnout schedule you mean? We use the same standard burnout for all resins with Plasticast investment > ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html&lc=Ugyme9_cIE2EPuwvEFZ4AaABAg
I tested 4 different resins myself and I will live and die by this stuff
On a side note, where did you get those tongs? Are they able to lift the flask from the top to pull the flask from the vacuum machine?
We made the tongs ourselves. Been thinking about doing a kickstarter or something for a production run as everyone loves them. Yes, we can hold from above or below the flange.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks. I might have to make some too.
Hi ,thanks for the video , what type of aluminium is ? , thanks
This is not aluminum. It's silicone bronze.
Hey, thanks for all of your vidéos, it's really useful ! What is yout burn cycle for plaster ?
We have a full video on burnout here: ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
can you advise how to install creality halot one brand 3d printer for resin siraya purple, thank you very much.
Wondering, what was that powder you poured on the melted metal?
I have tried this resin and my investment broke too. Maybe it was my kiln then. Thanks man; nice review :)
At 07:02 that is borax to reduce the amount of oxidization on the button.
If your investment cracked it could be your kiln temperatures, but first check that the investment you're using is compatible with 3d prints.
@@ClearMindJewellery yes, it is R&R plasticast bandust
I'd check your thermocouple then. (Saying that assuming your burnout schedule is good.)
Hi, we can see nice results you get over there. Can i have the flask burning progress detail, please?
Lost Wax and Lost Resin Casting Burnout Process | How to get good casting results| Casting 3D Prints
ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
How do I store molds that haven't been casted yet. @Clear Mind Jewellery
Great video, do you mind sharing what investment you used?
clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list
Hello friend, sorry for the inconvenience, but when I bought the resin, they didn't give me any parameters for its use, by chance. Could you help me with that?
siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download
Siraya are developing a decent settings and user guide manual, which we have contributed to, you can take a look at the link above and come back if you have any questions.
what printer do you use?
Hello, I'm just getting into investment casting, but I can't seem to find investment powder without a hefty shipping price tag.
So I just wanted to ask you guys since you're also in Canada where I could find investment powder in canada for a decent price?
Because we are in Ontario we drive down to Toronto to Gesswein and get 4 boxes at a time. If they don't carry the brand you like you can also get investment from European Design.
Depending on where you are there is also Lacy West. Not sure about other suppliers across Canada.
Did you cure the prints before casting ? if so what curing machine ? thanks !
We don't post cure the Siraya just wash & dry with the CW1.
Our ranked resin list has which resins we post cure: clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
This is our CW1 unboxing: ruclips.net/video/dIAUg35rtXQ/видео.html
@@ClearMindJewellery thanks for the reply, your channel has been so just h help !
If you're using mars elegoo 2 pro what will be the correct setup for a perfect mold
Need a little bit more context. Not sure exactly what you're asking.
I have a Photon Mono SE and when I print I can see some lines of the layers all over the print I solve it by sanding the model but I would like to know if there is a way to not see the height of the layer.
In parameter the layer height is set to 0.05 by default.
Which one to use?, Blue or Purple?
They generally have different purposes. Purple is more structurally sound but bigger things don't always cast that well. With blue it's harder to print but small sculptures cast great.
Saludos!!! de pronto tienes, o alguien más una configuración para esta resina Siraya Tech Cast en la Photon S? Muchas gracias!!!
Ok I'm hoping you will have time to answer my question I'm having trouble getting anything to print with Sirius tech cast purple. I'm using an elegoo mars pro not the mars pro 2 any suggestions for printer settings for me
Start with the recommended and develop an exposure setting that is more suited to the size of the models you will be printing. siraya.tech/pages/cast-resin-user-guide
Does anyone know the shrink rate usually 1 percent but I thought I read somewhere it was 6 percent can you confirm? Also if anyone is reading. Siriya tech purple cast mars elegoo pro 15 seconds exposure printed very well I'm still running tests to fine tune but just wondering as I'm printing 6mm cuban link with small stones 6 in each link
Hello, does this resin contain wax? and what percentage? thanks.
It is stated to have some "wax-like" compound although True-Blue in our opinion seems to have more. Siraya does not seem to advertise with percentages as other brands do.
Its a bit of a misnomer that resins have wax. Which is why we always try to say wax-like instead.
Would 1-1.5% boric acid in the investment help wit the minor collapses?
It depends on what you mean by a collapse.
If people are having a hard time casting resin prints with embossed text for example, and are getting filled in areas and collapsed areas around the lettering, we would definitely recommend boric acid. But note that a power washer is recommended as it will harden the investment drastically and make it difficult to devest.
If you are using siraya purple and have yet to do your post cure in glycerin I would do that first before experimenting with boric acid.
How does this compare to power resins? Or the green emerald casting resin
All of the resins we've tested are ranked here: clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
Did you guys cure it properly in glycerin?
Resinworks does not state that 200 or 400 series requires glycerin, only to be dry and cure for a minimum of 45 minutes under a 65 watt UV source. I have a heated drier/cure station with 55-60 watt output, we cured them for 1 hour.
@@ClearMindJewellery I meant siraya tech cast, sorry for the confusion.
What conversions do you use for casting this in various metals? I'm having trouble finding this information!
We treat resin and wax the same in terms of the metal density equation. They don't have enough difference in weight to cause issues. ruclips.net/video/zTOTIhmVQ-8/видео.html
what brand type of plaster are you using for best result with this wax?
We use R&R Plasticast or Prestige Optima, depends on what we have in stock.
pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag#?aff=24
@@ClearMindJewellery I do have the R&R cs-20. But I thought there was specific plaster for wax printing? so any general plaster should do?
Both R&R Plasticast and Prestige Optima are investments meant for 3D prints, plastics, etc.
R&R SC20 is a more general investment for wax, not recommended for 3d prints.
BTW unless you have a Projet "level" 3D printer it's not really printing"wax".
Hi, I am using siraya castable true blue and I have trouble connecting the resin print to the classic mold that you are using it is also blue wax, one is very soft and melts with a soldering iron, while one is much harder, I could not melt it with a soldering iron, so they somehow do not connect to each other. How do ı solve this is this the purple resin do the job?
We already answered this 2 days ago when you posted it under a RUclips short of ours.
See same answer: “The idea with spruing 3d prints is not to melt the 3d print (as it won't melt) but to add wax to the print as a "second skin" and then attach the waxed area to the wax spru.
If you are having a heard time with that you can find "sticky waxes" that have more of an adherence to the prints.
You can also do more mechanical techniques like printing your spru in place on your item and then making a small whole in your central spru to stick the feeder sprus into and then smoothing around it.”
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you ı thought this is a different RUclips channel ı am still tryin to learn. Thanks for your patience 🖖🏻
Hiw do you calculate weight of the resins to silver / gold ? I can see resin is a lot havier than wax
Here is our video on metal density calculation: ruclips.net/video/zTOTIhmVQ-8/видео.html There isn't enough difference between the density of wax and the density of resin to to be overly concerned. We find if you stick with the "traditional" process of adding 10% for a button it takes care of any difference (if there is one).
Good night. firstly, thank you very much. please. Can you share the thermal process you used. please. Thank you
Not sure if you mean print tempering or burnout.
If you mean print tempering, to combat thermal expansion, we don't. As a good resin and good investment choice means you shouldn't need to temper your prints.
If you mean burnout we have a full video here: ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
@@ClearMindJewellery thank very much
what you make to ovoid the exceed of resin in holes of rings?
Proper exposure settings and proper washing before post UV curing.
How to wash and cure a print in place tree: ruclips.net/video/PrhWCL9ZCnc/видео.html
Why you should have a cure and wash setup: ruclips.net/video/YvhXdmvN7Vo/видео.html
Hey all, has anyone tried printing this resin on a Creality LD-002H printer? Appreciate if you can share your settings. Thanks!
Nobody and nowhere can I find infos on the shrinkage…? How much shrinkage should be expected from their resins? I want to know how much to diablate my piece so it comes out perfect
Dilate*
Depending on the size of the model shrinkage will very. However the generally accepted amount of shrinkage is about 1.8-2%.
Hi..Can I use this resin in the Photon Mono SE?
Of course you can, we can't help with the exposure profile but check out Sirayas information page or contact that for a starting point.
Have you ever looked at ifun resins??
They are a brand that is very hart to connect with. Haven't had any luck reaching out thus far.
How long was your burn out time
We have a full video on our burnout schedules. The overall schedule will change with Flask size, Model size, etc ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
What is your burn out cycle ?
Lost Wax and Lost Resin Casting Burnout Process | How to get good casting results| Casting 3D Prints
ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
What burnout cycle do you use?
We use the same burnout cycle generally depending on size of the flask ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
I dont find it in EU, and with importing fees from US and shipping it costs 140 Euro...
Would recommend checking our ranked list to find something in a similar price point with equal printing capabilities clearmindcasting.com/pages/resin-ranked-list
Great review thanks!
Thank you, Elias I will experiment with glycerin.
Glycerin curing is needed for this SIRAYA material.
Thank you, can you tell me what settings you are using for your medium casting, like the pave ring? New to 3 d printing, also have mars 3 elegoo printer. Appreciate any info. 😊
how long for the burn?
Burnout will depend on your flask size etc we'd recommend watching our video going over it ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
Can you do a tutorial on how to build a casting tree in shapr3d
We’ll put it on the list lol 😆
What is the definition of a large model?
For our purposes small sculpture that would fit in a 5x6 flask. Miniatures for board games, missing limbs for trophies, paper weights, etc.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you
What investment do you use?
Our casting tool list is here: clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list
@@ClearMindJewellery was it optima or plasticast in this video?
@@ClearMindJewellery also curious, why wax sprues? Why not just build it into the print? It seems FAR more time efficient.
They are relatively the same. We use Plasticast across our testing for consistency of testing process.
It is important for the review that we can look at the models individually.
If we were producing prints for a client or studio project printing with sprus in place would be under consideration.
i have the elegoo mars pro, and that resin dont seems to work for my printer at all it giva me this half print as if something bite off the half of the print please help !!!!
Do you mean it looks bite off like at 04:07? That happened for us as a combination of tilt speed and exposure time.
Its hard to discuss issues without a visual sometimes so if the issue continues I would look into joining our facebook group (facebook.com/groups/948410769062925/) or Membership based Discord (Join button under our videos).
@@ClearMindJewellery i click the link and it didn work
does anyone have some tips on the best support settings for siraya tech castable resin? I how over supported my model and tried so many different exposed settings but I can not get repeatable success, my exposer is at 4 seconds, I upped it to five and it fails more frequently
When posting asking for help its best to include your machine type and what kind of failure is occurring in the print. Thanks.
On the SL1 (before we upgraded to the SL1S) we were using 40sec base and 12sec layer times.
Sonic mini 4k, 6.5 cure time, 40 lift speed, 50 resolution, my issue is holes on the print closing up, I tried 4.5 exposure but it's undercuring and causing brittle failures
Cool video, weird desk 😂
Desks with a semi circle cut out are common in the jewellery trade as this allows the jeweller to work into the bench and braced properly while having an area for tools or a catch for off cuts under their hands.
I saw a desk like this at Dollywood
It was a copy of dolly Parton's actual office desk she wrote songs.
Maybe you'll have enough of a rack when you're older in your 60's
To do the desk justice
Plz tell me burnout temperature
We use the same burnout process with all of the resins we've tested as outlined in this video ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
Could you please tell me burnout timing and process??
We have a video about the process here ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html
nice one!!
Thanks!
крутой обзор. спасибо.
Спасибо за видео 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
what printer did you use
Prusa SL1S