Resin with baby powder to fill in layer lines! That right there is an incredibly, mind-blowing tip. All cos-players watching this should thank you profusely, buy you some coffee!
The result is just amazing! I love how 3D printing is like 15-20% of the total time. Really shows that the really important part is indeed craftsmanship.
What i get from watching this video is with determination and practice you can achieve anything and expired resin still work well and i don't need to throw it away,awesome.
Outstanding Walk through video! Thank you so much for producing. You are one of the only 3D Print artists that mentioned ensuring you captured the micro plastics! This in itself is admired. x from New Zealand.
This looks awesome, your hard work really paid off. A few years ago I tried my hand at electroplating 3d prints, I did one Star Trek Holo-emitter in nickel, said "wow cool, that was a lot of work and really messy" and then gave up. If I ever had a big project that required mirror finish metallic surfaces I might try again
ive used the superglue and baking soda as filler trick before on joints but baby powder and uv resin sounds great, cant wait to try that , i bet its much easier to sand
You are talented. You asked if it was worth it. One of my granddaughters is BIG into StarWars. If I had the equipment and talent, yes it’s worth it. Thank You
Wow! Having built a full C3PO myself while using a gold chrome spray can (which you can't touch or put anything over the top!) , I'm so impressed with what you've done, the finish! Are you going to do the whole thing now 😁(I'm currently building a full size R2 as well!). Excellent work! I'm watching your IronMan as well now... I love these tutorials you are doing about electroplating. I want to make some custom jewellery just for fun... Happy making!
Would be great to do a dedicated video teaching to make homemade conductive paints, like the graphite+glue and copper+acetone. And maybe homemade electrolyte liquid as in some places, like mine, neither is easy to find. Cheers!
Looks absolutely great, like a prop from the Movies. The only thing missing is a little weathering for the used Star Wars look, but that's a matter of taste. 😁
Gorgeous! Very cool technique. That magical little tiny power sander you used at 6:06 is going to be a game changer for me, though. I've wanted something like that for years, for fine detail sanding of complex parts. Never found one before. Thanks for the link!
4:21 TEN?! 5:24 Okay, that's funny. 5:59 I get jealous every time I see this kind of finish. I would love to try to attempt this kind of work one day. 10:28 I know... I knoooooow!
Absolutely fantastic! As always! No idea why anyone would give it a thumbs down. I just checked the pricing of the 5 liter acidic copper plating solution you're using... And you need 10 of them. Pfew! I hope the manufacturer is sponsoring your channel. Thumbs up from me!
I always use uv resin and baby powder on my fdm prints, saves a lot of time. I'm so interested in the electroplating. Have been watching your videos all the time but not took the plunge yet
I can't believe you used 6 year old expired resin specifically in the hopes it would be yellow due to being expired and having to deal with the "problem" that despite its expiration it turned out "perfectly" against your hopes. Quite amusing.
Dude, you've got "professional" on your personal attire , 3d print quality and detailing, and you're video production. Phenomenal video! Maybe StarWars is redeemable in the future if Disney ever dissolves. Damn, I wish I could invest into youtube channels like stock markets. This guys going places. May I suggest hyping up your joke with the fossil. It's funny, but missed opportunity. Should of thrown a replica into the solution as the most important ingredient.
Thanks for the great video! Lots of practical information, adding the time it takes for the steps is very useful. The proof that it works is shown and looks amazing. Many thanks.
Would love to see a video maybe on things that can go wrong during the plating process, and how best to avoid them. Also, I've never had much success with sanding as the layer always starts to peel off before I can get to the higher grit sand papers. Maybe I just need to go gentler as the pieces spend a long time in the bath so I don't think the thickness is the issue.
Beautiful results and thank you x 100 for the video showing your technique! I'm less patient, and the parts where you are polishing it turn me off. I recently tried 3D laser sintering printing in stainless steel, followed by powder coating. It gives me the shiny metal surface. -Frank
There are some mirror finish metallic spray paints that have been out for a few years that come surprisingly close to that appearance however. So one may want to do a comparison for surface prep and costs. (I suspect the rattle-can stuff not only saves time, but is likely a lot cheaper.)
Surfaces scale quadratically, Volumes scale in a cubic manner. Doubling the sides of a rectangle you get 2^2 = 4 times the area. Doubling the edges of a cube you get 2^3 = 8 times the volume.
Beautiful. My man, can you put together a detailed tutorial of the most basic setup so that beginners like myself with say an Anycubic Photon Mono can cheaply electroplate. With shopping lists and step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.
I wouldn't use resin for filler, I found good results from Big Boy car body filler. It is very versatile and easy to use like a 2 part epoxy which sets hard in about 15 minutes ready to sand and paint. I've also used a soldering iron and spare PLA off the roll to fix parts that need strength and then smooth them over while the soldering iron cools down. Definitely turned out great. I would agree with Homer: If something takes a long time to do, it's probably not worth it. But that's just me
Using resin as filler literally takes seconds to harden. And since it's resin on resin, there is no separation and very little to sand. It also utilizes the same materials you already have on hand. I've used resin filler on resin parts for years. Car filler is good if you have large parts to fill where it would take forever to brush in resin. But on small blemishes and seams, resin is 1000% easier and faster and much less fumes.
@@cuthwulf I see. Thanks. Although there's no fumes for car body filler either. I was just looking at the results as it was applied and thought it wasn't very smooth. But if it bonds well with the material (I thought it was PLA so didn't know this) then it's probably going to give a better finish when sanded)
Moin Dude. Thank you for you videos and Time. I want to get startet with elktroplaying myself, to expand my 3D Printing Hobby. Could u maybe make an Updated Full Tutorial vid? I have seen your "Rotary Jig" but no Explanation how its works. Also maybe what Products u use and where to procure them. Maybe also a Vid explaing your Fail´s and how to Problem solve them. Sry for the Request Overload :D Keep up the good Work!
Man how do you get that shine right out the bath? All my electroplates come out rough and i need to wet sand before polishing. Truely you are a master at your craft.
I try to deposit very slow with the correct current and an even electrical field. I maintain the bath that it has no dirt in it and polish the conductive paint carefully before plating
Absolutely incredible! For the small parts do you bother going into blender to calculate the surface area or are you using your experience and guestamating?
@HEN3DRIK Great video and work. It's so incredible the will it takes to accomplish what you have. Are you familiar with the work of ViKtor Schauberger? I'd love to see a continuation of his work and I think that you have the potential
I collect and recycle spilled liquids and reuse the electrolytes over and over by maintaining them. My electrolytes are still the original ones that I’ve bought back in 2018y
Good morning, my friend. I have been following your work for a long time and I have to congratulate you on your excellent work and very explanatory videos. My question is about the paint you made using copper powder and acetone. Do you have any more information about the copper powder, any specifications, is it electrolytic? I believe this is a question that many people have. Thank you very much.
Hi, I use a commercial conductive copper paint that is very thick and i thin it down to make it airbrushable. This paint is not conductive when applied but when it gets into contact with acid. Then it suddenly becomes super conductive. I have yet to make my own, but that's what I'm trying to cover in the next videos or so. I know that getting conductive copper paint is a hassle when not in the EU, so sticking to DIY conductive graphite paint in the meantime is a good alternative AFAIK
echt krass, wirklich....verkaufst du die? ich mein ich könnt das auch selber machen, aber der aufwand und alles zu besorgen wäre wesentlich teurer denke ich....
This is so cool, love your work 🫣 I have a question as I’m working on a small project myself. For small tiny parts that are SLA printed, what can I do to smoothen the surface?
I don't know if you have the scale off or where the number comes from, but the surface area of the mask definetly isn't 18 square meters as indicated by the program at 04:55
Sehr schön! Have you tried using ABS or ASA and using an acetone slurry to fill gaps/adhere different parts, or vapor smoothing? It's a little harder to print and more expensive, but very doable with the x1 carbon. I've done it for cosplay armor so it won't melt if I leave it in the car for 45 minutes while I get food on the way to a convention. Is that not a concern after electroplating?
Thanks, yes ABS or ASA could be used, i would not vapor smooth them for eveness of the surface but maybe to fill the gaps and cracks to seal it up a bit. After electroplating the PLA is more or less imune to heat. Greetings!
@@hen3drikServus! Das ist interessant. I've been wanting to try electroplating ever since your full tutorial video a couple years ago, maybe I'll finally pick up a B&K 1901B (or convince work I need a R&S NGP814 for my work from home lab haha) and experiment.
Do you have a few resources that you have used to learn? I'm very interested in electroplating, but the cost and my lack of knowledge on the subject poses as a barrier
This is probably one of the best replicas of C-3PO Ive ever seen! Well done!
Oh, thank you very much 🙂
likewise. awesome work
It's probably got more time into it than the original costume department put into Anthony Daniels entire outfit...
It's beautiful, a piece of art.
Resin with baby powder to fill in layer lines! That right there is an incredibly, mind-blowing tip. All cos-players watching this should thank you profusely, buy you some coffee!
I appreciate the effort of getting dressed to the nines for a split-second visual gag.
5:20 made me laugh waaaay harder than I should have. lol
The result is just amazing!
I love how 3D printing is like 15-20% of the total time. Really shows that the really important part is indeed craftsmanship.
What i get from watching this video is with determination and practice you can achieve anything and expired resin still work well and i don't need to throw it away,awesome.
That is outstanding, the final finish looks like it could be a render, great job!
This is AMAZING! You're a living legend!
Love to hear more about the graphite acetone super glue mix
Beautiful work as always
Haven't you noticed? That wasn't super glue. It was Gorilla Glue Clear packed into "super glue style" tubes.
Maan, you are crazy! This piece is stunning. Great job!
thanks 😊
Outstanding Walk through video! Thank you so much for producing. You are one of the only 3D Print artists that mentioned ensuring you captured the micro plastics! This in itself is admired. x from New Zealand.
What do you do with the micro plastics when you catch them?
As always, an amazing end result.
Thank you
It's amazing the finish you achieved, it really looks like a piece of solid metal and just like in the movie really.
Thank you. I was really surprised how well it looks, feels and sounds (!), as it’s practically metal now
Thanks for giving us the paint formula for the copper powder and graphite!
I think it's only a matter of time until you will have built entire C-3PO. Absolutely amazing work.
Moin from Hamburg. The results look fantastic.
Amazing work!!!! I can honestly say, I'll never make one!!! lol I appreciate your attention to safety and detail. WELL DONE!!!!!!
Great video. Glad to see your channel has grown so much since I last saw it. Congrats
Beautiful! Thank you for sharing your work.
This looks awesome, your hard work really paid off. A few years ago I tried my hand at electroplating 3d prints, I did one Star Trek Holo-emitter in nickel, said "wow cool, that was a lot of work and really messy" and then gave up. If I ever had a big project that required mirror finish metallic surfaces I might try again
Had exactly the same results and thoughts when i started. ;-)
ive used the superglue and baking soda as filler trick before on joints but baby powder and uv resin sounds great, cant wait to try that , i bet its much easier to sand
I bought a 3D printer a while ago and haven't wanted to print anything until I saw your video! WOW!
You are talented. You asked if it was worth it. One of my granddaughters is BIG into StarWars. If I had the equipment and talent, yes it’s worth it. Thank You
Wow! Having built a full C3PO myself while using a gold chrome spray can (which you can't touch or put anything over the top!) , I'm so impressed with what you've done, the finish! Are you going to do the whole thing now 😁(I'm currently building a full size R2 as well!). Excellent work! I'm watching your IronMan as well now...
I love these tutorials you are doing about electroplating. I want to make some custom jewellery just for fun...
Happy making!
Thanks! 😃
Would be great to do a dedicated video teaching to make homemade conductive paints, like the graphite+glue and copper+acetone. And maybe homemade electrolyte liquid as in some places, like mine, neither is easy to find. Cheers!
Just upped the bar again! This is absolutely GORGEOUS
Thank you, glad you like it!
This is nothing short of amazing... WOW!
Looks absolutely great, like a prop from the Movies. The only thing missing is a little weathering for the used Star Wars look, but that's a matter of taste. 😁
Gorgeous! Very cool technique. That magical little tiny power sander you used at 6:06 is going to be a game changer for me, though. I've wanted something like that for years, for fine detail sanding of complex parts. Never found one before. Thanks for the link!
Yeah, there is actually a battery powered Japanese thing : Artima 7. but I couldn’t get it here.
Brilliant as always!
Thank you so much for your videos, it's so mind-blowing to see things like this come to reality
Amazing as always!! Well done!
4:21 TEN?!
5:24 Okay, that's funny.
5:59 I get jealous every time I see this kind of finish. I would love to try to attempt this kind of work one day.
10:28 I know... I knoooooow!
It's nice to see I'm not the only one who ignores resin expiration dates!🙈
thankyou for share your knowledge
I learned so much stuff from youtubers, it's time to give back 😅
Love your stuff man! Inspiring videos and projects. I always look forward to what you craft next! Keep it up homie
Absolutely fantastic! As always! No idea why anyone would give it a thumbs down. I just checked the pricing of the 5 liter acidic copper plating solution you're using... And you need 10 of them. Pfew! I hope the manufacturer is sponsoring your channel. Thumbs up from me!
It looks truly amazing.
Looks amazing! Can't imagine all the iterations to get to that mirror finish
I was already obsessed with your work.. now I’m fanatically obsessed! 😍😍😍 so beautiful!
😅 I’m just a dude with electrolyte and sanding paper, seriously!
very cool! nice work
I always use uv resin and baby powder on my fdm prints, saves a lot of time. I'm so interested in the electroplating. Have been watching your videos all the time but not took the plunge yet
Absolutely perfect! Great job!
That is amazing 👏
I can't believe you used 6 year old expired resin specifically in the hopes it would be yellow due to being expired and having to deal with the "problem" that despite its expiration it turned out "perfectly" against your hopes. Quite amusing.
Impressive! It just doesn´t look 3D printed anymore in the end. So, I´d argue it can totally be worth it.
brillliant
Wow, incredible!!!
NOW YOU CAN MAKE DAFT PUNK!
Dude, you've got "professional" on your personal attire , 3d print quality and detailing, and you're video production. Phenomenal video! Maybe StarWars is redeemable in the future if Disney ever dissolves. Damn, I wish I could invest into youtube channels like stock markets. This guys going places.
May I suggest hyping up your joke with the fossil. It's funny, but missed opportunity. Should of thrown a replica into the solution as the most important ingredient.
😅
Thanks for the great video! Lots of practical information, adding the time it takes for the steps is very useful. The proof that it works is shown and looks amazing. Many thanks.
Does anyone know where I can get that copper paint in the US?
Man you have crazy level talent your creation out of the world
Thanks!❤️
Great video! You've inspired me to make a 3d printed Tesla coil toroid and give Electroplating a try
🫶
HELL YEAH IT'S WORTH IT!!! IT'S FREAKING AMAZING!!! GREAT WORK!!! 💯🤯
Wow..really amazing job, thanks for sharing...I need to make this for my humanoid robot parts...😊
Great result. You can make a Terminator head as well 👍
Looking absolutely amazing.
Amazing print quality from the x1c pla print
Sooo happy you are back!!!!
Glorious
Wow - looks fantastic!
Would love to see a video maybe on things that can go wrong during the plating process, and how best to avoid them. Also, I've never had much success with sanding as the layer always starts to peel off before I can get to the higher grit sand papers. Maybe I just need to go gentler as the pieces spend a long time in the bath so I don't think the thickness is the issue.
Fantastic video, great story telling. I really enjoyed watching it!
02:09, 03:00 and 05:22 are my favourite scenes :D
Thank you, did you recognize the trilobite from Nederland? 😅
@@hen3drik I did! Was the glue the one from Microcenter?
@@JanTec3D eagle eye, it was!
Ooh, someone upgraded their production quality.
Beautiful results and thank you x 100 for the video showing your technique! I'm less patient, and the parts where you are polishing it turn me off. I recently tried 3D laser sintering printing in stainless steel, followed by powder coating. It gives me the shiny metal surface. -Frank
Amazing!
There are some mirror finish metallic spray paints that have been out for a few years that come surprisingly close to that appearance however. So one may want to do a comparison for surface prep and costs. (I suspect the rattle-can stuff not only saves time, but is likely a lot cheaper.)
Surfaces scale quadratically, Volumes scale in a cubic manner. Doubling the sides of a rectangle you get 2^2 = 4 times the area. Doubling the edges of a cube you get 2^3 = 8 times the volume.
You're absolutely right.
brilliant
thats fantastic
Best one yet!
Thank you
It's stunning work sire
It is absolutely worth it, and I would do it but with my 3d printers I have no more room for a chemical lab.
5:22 now hold up.
Beautiful. My man, can you put together a detailed tutorial of the most basic setup so that beginners like myself with say an Anycubic Photon Mono can cheaply electroplate. With shopping lists and step by step instructions. Thanks in advance.
great job
Worth it? Depends on how much of a fan you are of the lore. C3PO for me? Nah, but if this were a T2 Endoskeleton, absolutely.
Amazing!!! 😍 Please put the materials and steps in a list 🙏🏻 I'm no good I English so it's a little difficult to understand 😅
Always excellent vids. BTW what is the actual current formula for argument of m2?
Incredible
I wouldn't use resin for filler, I found good results from Big Boy car body filler. It is very versatile and easy to use like a 2 part epoxy which sets hard in about 15 minutes ready to sand and paint. I've also used a soldering iron and spare PLA off the roll to fix parts that need strength and then smooth them over while the soldering iron cools down.
Definitely turned out great.
I would agree with Homer: If something takes a long time to do, it's probably not worth it. But that's just me
Using resin as filler literally takes seconds to harden. And since it's resin on resin, there is no separation and very little to sand. It also utilizes the same materials you already have on hand. I've used resin filler on resin parts for years. Car filler is good if you have large parts to fill where it would take forever to brush in resin. But on small blemishes and seams, resin is 1000% easier and faster and much less fumes.
@@cuthwulf I see. Thanks. Although there's no fumes for car body filler either. I was just looking at the results as it was applied and thought it wasn't very smooth. But if it bonds well with the material (I thought it was PLA so didn't know this) then it's probably going to give a better finish when sanded)
Moin Dude. Thank you for you videos and Time. I want to get startet with elktroplaying myself, to expand my 3D Printing Hobby. Could u maybe make an Updated Full Tutorial vid? I have seen your "Rotary Jig" but no Explanation how its works. Also maybe what Products u use and where to procure them.
Maybe also a Vid explaing your Fail´s and how to Problem solve them.
Sry for the Request Overload :D
Keep up the good Work!
Seconds after i post that i see that most of that is in the Discription... welp.
Man how do you get that shine right out the bath? All my electroplates come out rough and i need to wet sand before polishing. Truely you are a master at your craft.
I try to deposit very slow with the correct current and an even electrical field. I maintain the bath that it has no dirt in it and polish the conductive paint carefully before plating
Could you put a general price tag for a setup to achieve such results with electro plating ? (Not accounting for printers)
Absolutely incredible! For the small parts do you bother going into blender to calculate the surface area or are you using your experience and guestamating?
Blender. Always.
Now make a full suit!
The copper powder mixed with acetone layer is to create a conductive surface so the copper from the plates could stuck on it?
I love every video you upload!
The Glaive from Krull?
@HEN3DRIK Great video and work. It's so incredible the will it takes to accomplish what you have. Are you familiar with the work of ViKtor Schauberger? I'd love to see a continuation of his work and I think that you have the potential
Beautiful! Is this how they did the original costume? What is the cost for all parts and processes? Can anyone afford this? :)
It's amazing. I have some questions, can you help me? Please
How are the liquids disposed of? Can the liquid be reused? for how long?
I collect and recycle spilled liquids and reuse the electrolytes over and over by maintaining them. My electrolytes are still the original ones that I’ve bought back in 2018y
Good morning, my friend. I have been following your work for a long time and I have to congratulate you on your excellent work and very explanatory videos. My question is about the paint you made using copper powder and acetone. Do you have any more information about the copper powder, any specifications, is it electrolytic? I believe this is a question that many people have. Thank you very much.
Hi, I use a commercial conductive copper paint that is very thick and i thin it down to make it airbrushable. This paint is not conductive when applied but when it gets into contact with acid. Then it suddenly becomes super conductive. I have yet to make my own, but that's what I'm trying to cover in the next videos or so. I know that getting conductive copper paint is a hassle when not in the EU, so sticking to DIY conductive graphite paint in the meantime is a good alternative AFAIK
echt krass, wirklich....verkaufst du die? ich mein ich könnt das auch selber machen, aber der aufwand und alles zu besorgen wäre wesentlich teurer denke ich....
This is so cool, love your work 🫣 I have a question as I’m working on a small project myself. For small tiny parts that are SLA printed, what can I do to smoothen the surface?
that's a good question. Maybe using filler primer and throwing the in a tumbler.
I don't know if you have the scale off or where the number comes from, but the surface area of the mask definetly isn't 18 square meters as indicated by the program at 04:55
I use modified units in blender to directly transform to Ampere. It’s actually 18dm^2. good spot.
Sehr schön! Have you tried using ABS or ASA and using an acetone slurry to fill gaps/adhere different parts, or vapor smoothing? It's a little harder to print and more expensive, but very doable with the x1 carbon. I've done it for cosplay armor so it won't melt if I leave it in the car for 45 minutes while I get food on the way to a convention. Is that not a concern after electroplating?
Thanks, yes ABS or ASA could be used, i would not vapor smooth them for eveness of the surface but maybe to fill the gaps and cracks to seal it up a bit. After electroplating the PLA is more or less imune to heat. Greetings!
@@hen3drikServus! Das ist interessant. I've been wanting to try electroplating ever since your full tutorial video a couple years ago, maybe I'll finally pick up a B&K 1901B (or convince work I need a R&S NGP814 for my work from home lab haha) and experiment.
Do you have a few resources that you have used to learn? I'm very interested in electroplating, but the cost and my lack of knowledge on the subject poses as a barrier
If you collect the sandings of the filament print, would it be better than baby powder?
The result is amazing! Gold is quite expensive though. Do you know how much money this project cost you in materials alone?
Material is around
* 30€ PLA
* 8€ Resin
* 30€ copperanodes
* 30€ gold
* 5€ palladium
In already had 50l of copper electrolyte (~1k).
I would have thought it would have cost more in gold. But in fact, what is really expensive is the enormous quantity of copper electrolyte required!