Everytime I see your videos I think he is teaching me to do this myself. Then remember I'm in Arizona and I'll just open my garage and pay a mechanic lol.
Those TSX's are great cars. It seems like they take great care of it. That car will last them a very long time. They have the rarer manual like I have.
Nice! Manuals are great! The only thing I noticed and didn’t get on film was the trans oil was quite sparkly. But nots as big a deal on these manuals! :)
For the hand impact driver you have to preload it to either loosening or tightening. You are supposed to twist you hand in direction you are trying to take off the screw like a regular screwdriver, while pressing it in a little hit it with the hammer and it should impact and rotate in the direction you are twisting your wrist and applying pressure. Hope this helps, keep up the good work.
Most manufacturers actually recommend replacing them, usually around 90 or 100k miles. Some say 125k miles. Problem is most people don't bother to follow the factory maintenance recommendations or even open the owners manual to look at the recommended maintenance schedule. They are a PM item because O2 sensors get lazy when they have a bunch of miles on them and that can lead to drivability issues. If they have over 100k miles on them, they really should be replaced.
Some manufacturers recommend that the O2 sensors be changed at regular intervals. But I agree. There's no need to change them unless you confirm they are bad.
@catfishbilly7425 90 or 125000 don't sound correct most maintenance intervals are rounded up to the next hundred or 50 not 90 or 125 I'm no expert but worked on big trucks for over a decade closer to 2 decades I've never heard of what you're saying before you say that's diesel and other is gas but I worked on both lol
I had a cheap impact driver that would get those out about 40-50% of the time. I bought a Snap-on impact driver on eBay and it gets them out 100% of the time. Also, a few taps on the screw head with a flat punch and often they'll come right out, sometimes without an impact.
When using a impact driver always twist and turn not just beat it with a hammer " you may/may not have done it in the video but from my end it looked you were just beating it" . Great video as always!
I'm still towards the beginning of the video, but I've never seen him use an impact driver. He uses an impact wrench and an electric ratchet. He's even specified in other videos that the electric ratchet isn't an impact.
I just got to that part. When I think impact driver, I think of the electric 1/4" impact drivers. I always called what he tried an impact screwdriver. Mine has section your turn like a ratchet to set the direction, but some are automatic where you put a little twisting pressure before hitting it... I guess he should have checked the instructions.
2:58 Ha! It would take me a solid week to complete that list on my ride, if that. The tranny fluid, alone, would eat up my Sunday (2014 Camaro v6 auto).
I’m glad you warmed up to that impact screwdriver. Those screws might be more difficult in Utah than SoCal tho. 🤷🏼♂️ Lots of great tips and tricks in this video. 👍🏼
I use my Dewalt 1/2" impact with the correct head for those screws, I put it on setting speed 1 and it'll 90% of the time come out as long as you don't have it crooked on the screw. It's super easy, unless it's not on there correctly or the wrong bit is used.
another great video👍 hope you're getting better each day after your surgery. I'm not going to tell you how to use an impact because you know how the licence plate is bent did you know this that ?
i have a 2003 civic hatchback and when in second gear it would jolt with a little throttle so i diceded to change the mtf fluid in the gearbox and now it is great
Standing while hitting it and Turing hard works best then sitting just a suggestion from another mobile mechanic 👨🔧 lol. But yes most of the time I drill them out.
Vasselle makes the impact screwdriver for those rotor screws. Japanese industrial standard screw is what they are. Additionally the Vasselle screwdriver is a impact driver, hit it with a hammer and it rotates the shaft like a impact driver. Work great on my wife’s Honda Odyssey.
I wanna be a mobile mechanic do all my own work but I’m just don’t wanna deal with bad customers I wish I was out in the country working with old folks
How did you get the confidence to do this in the first place? I bought the tools, and I have memorized how to do it from RUclips. Problem is I am gun shy
You are supposed to put the impact driver onto the screw without pressing it down, turn it in the direction you are trying to turn the screw, then whack it. The device works by using a ramp that slowly twists the bit as you impact it with the hammer. Just play with it by hand and you should notice that depending on what setting it is on, the bit will slowly twist as you press it in, but only if you have it set as such, otherwise its just whacking on the bolt with no rotational force. I bought one specifically for those bits! That is about all they are good for but nice to have when used right! Because you can't impact a philips bit in a traditional manner without rounding it out lol
For those rotor screws Eric the car guys trick with a ball peen hammer round side against the screw head and hit the back of the hammer with another hammer. Works amazing Just wear ear plugs ffs
Flushing your brake system every 3 years or 36 miles is an excellent PM. Saves caliper pistons from forming pock marks and damaging them. Do the same on hydraulic power steering systems.
On the power steering fluid, back in the day we used to use an oil additive made or marketed by STP and several other brands. This was very good stuff for powersteering systems and prolonged the life of components. It could also be used in engines, gearboxes, transmissions and the diff where it worked wonders and reduced friction and heat. I could not say for some modern vehicles as they have seals and sensors that can be damaged by chemicals in additives.......or so the manufacturers say.....and their warranty conditions.
Ill tell you what, I am not a fan of pressing in the pistons all the way without opening the bleeder valve. I popped square cut seals doing that a few times, then you end up tearing apart the caliper or replacing it. All the pressure that is produced at the very end when you seat the piston all the way down (because at that point you have compressed it the farthest, so there is the most pressure build up) sometimes it will pop the seal and cause the caliper to leak. Theoretically that shouldn't be an issue, but it will happen every once in a while because the seal is being pushed outwards while the piston is moving inwards, which is not normal operation. Normal operation the brake fluid is pushing the piston outwards, while the square cut seal is simply flexing forward, then lack of pressure the square cut seal actually springs backwards to release the brakes. Hence pressing in pistons with the bleeder closed does the opposite, moves the piston in, while all the force of the fluid will be flexing the seal outwards.
The best way I've noticed to fill up those manual transmissions is to take out the speed sensor leave the fill plug off and then just add fluid till it pours out that in the car is level on the ground so you're definitely getting the right level only thing is you got to check the car back up to put the fill plug back in
@@yunus_aros My wife works at the engine plant in Anna Ohio for Honda's She works She puts on manifold's Oxygen sensors It rotate every few hours it's just a bare block when it's put on the line and by the time it hits the in the other side it's a complete motor ready to be created and shipped to Marysville Ohio
I swear by those impact screw removers. I've gotten out of a few sticky situations because of them. I think by the end you got it down but I've found that one big impact is better than more softer ones if that makes sense.
When a rotor is "Drilled and Slotted" that has nothing to do with heat dissipation as in a radiant effect. When brakes are applied forcefully- the lining material turns into a gas. The gas acts like a "cushion" between the lining and rotor, (or drum) causing what's referred to as "pedal fade". Harder application of the brakes has no effect, and stopping power is greatly reduced. Incredibly dangerous. The holes and slots allow the gas to escape, so there is no cushion action, and the braking is more powerful under a hard stopping situation, such as towing down a steep grade, or needing to frequently brake hard under high speed as in a race, or being chased by Police or gang members. There is one inherent drawback- all of that missing metal, and now the cross section of the disk is also exposed- and these type of rotors wear and rust very quickly, especially if exposed to water and salt. Wear can be almost 2x as fast as with regular rotors. Unless actually needed- the cool factor & novelty will wear off fast, when they're being replaced earlier than expected.
I love your videos and watching your techniques. However, why would you think that power steering fluid flushes are not necessary? All fluids get dirty and break down just like engine oil and need to be changed at some interval.
Hey Ernest, question for you: When you replace someone’s brake pads or any warrantied part from AutoZone, does the warranty still apply? Thanks for another great video!
Move your hand down further on the hammer- you are "choking" it, and it is useless as it has no inertia. The mass must be _swung_ hard enough, and then a rotation of the tool will occur.
How u a mechanic and not know about the 3/8 phillips screw for the impact you can use a 1/2 adapter to the 3/8 and get that 3/8 phillips screw its like 6$ at home depot and you can always knock out them rotor screwd
Sometimes I wonder about this guy lol. I've learned alot from his videos. I have very little mechanical knowledge myself but a couple times this guy has thrown me for a loop.
@@RoadsideRescue Hey I'm sorry about that. That wasn't me, it was my girlfriend. She's jealous that I spend a lot of my time watching vehicle repair videos. I enjoy your content and excited when new videos come out. Like I said my apologies for her.
I see there are a lot of helpful hints, but I personally think the wording of most descriptions leave lots of missed and important details. While these impact drivers ARE very easy to use if done correctly, instructing someone to simply hold it in place a whack it with the hammer, just isn't going to cut it. Someone said "preload it", as if anyone who DOES NOT know how to use this is going to have a clue what that means... So, IN DETAIL: 1) Find appropriate bit (bit that fits perfectly and DOES NOT WOBBLE AROUND LOOSE in the head of the fastener. 2) Insert bit into end of impact driver. 3) place tip of bit into fastener AND HOLD with pressure, while forcefully trying to make it turn the fastener in the correct direction. (You may need to PUSH hard while twisting, to MOVE the impact internals into the correct position for the desired direction.) 4) While holding a firm twisting pressure, strike the top of the impact driver until fastener frees up. This forces the internals to rotate in the selected direction. HINT: a 1 or 2 pound hammer will make this easier. CAUTION: If the bit does not fit the fastener properly (seated all the way and snug) damage to the fastener WILL occur. Some people may have NEVER used one before, so to help them, please include EVERY detail/step. Example: someone may not know that you have to apply force WHILE striking the tool... (it does take a little practice, and a LOT of paying attention to detail) BONUS! These work on BOLTS TOO!
Vry wonderful indepth tuning of Acura making reliable for next 50,000mls by changing transmission oil power steering , brake & engine oils coolant ,washer fuids & spark plugs rear rotors brake pads,bleeding brakes oil &pwr sterling oils for safety, job welldone by roadside rescue
You know they take good care of car when you come and have a tarp under car to protect concrete :)
Woah! A six speed TSX! Very cool car you gotta work on.
Everytime I see your videos I think he is teaching me to do this myself. Then remember I'm in Arizona and I'll just open my garage and pay a mechanic lol.
Too hot in AZ. Let someone else do it! Haha
Your the motivation man. You post so often even though you have so much going on man. Respect the dedication
Impact drivers are very handy tools especially for Philips or JIS screws!
That’s the one, JIS.
@@RoadsideRescue I didn’t know of JIS in the 1970s but an impact driver removed them from motorcycle cases none the less.
That screw head hammer is the best investment. Got tired of the damn drilling 😂.
Those TSX's are great cars. It seems like they take great care of it. That car will last them a very long time. They have the rarer manual like I have.
Nice! Manuals are great! The only thing I noticed and didn’t get on film was the trans oil was quite sparkly. But nots as big a deal on these manuals! :)
I love your view while driving !!!
You need your usps truck back on the road so you don't have to guess what tools to bring with you
Sorry but I think the title should read: Mobile Mechanic Performs Major Tune-up in Customer’s Home. That’s a job well done 😛. Keep up the good work.
@@kayjay4060 customer’s - belongs to the customer. Customers is plural of customer ie more than one customer
Don’t get lazy on the edits! I love seeing the trails and errors and learn from that specific situation, other than that, it’s a job well done!
How cute the owner put down a tarp for any incidental spills…then there’s me just letting it land where it falls.
For the hand impact driver you have to preload it to either loosening or tightening. You are supposed to twist you hand in direction you are trying to take off the screw like a regular screwdriver, while pressing it in a little hit it with the hammer and it should impact and rotate in the direction you are twisting your wrist and applying pressure. Hope this helps, keep up the good work.
Good moning Ernest. Glad to see another full length video. Kepp up the excellent work. Love them all.
Nice long video for a change!
Thanks for another great video, Ernest!
I've never known of anybody replacing O2 sensors as PM.
me neither? haha but if they want it done ill do it!
Most manufacturers actually recommend replacing them, usually around 90 or 100k miles. Some say 125k miles. Problem is most people don't bother to follow the factory maintenance recommendations or even open the owners manual to look at the recommended maintenance schedule. They are a PM item because O2 sensors get lazy when they have a bunch of miles on them and that can lead to drivability issues. If they have over 100k miles on them, they really should be replaced.
Some manufacturers recommend that the O2 sensors be changed at regular intervals. But I agree. There's no need to change them unless you confirm they are bad.
@@catfishbilly7425its like how most people think the only fluids you have to change in your car is oil
@catfishbilly7425 90 or 125000 don't sound correct most maintenance intervals are rounded up to the next hundred or 50 not 90 or 125 I'm no expert but worked on big trucks for over a decade closer to 2 decades I've never heard of what you're saying before you say that's diesel and other is gas but I worked on both lol
I had a cheap impact driver that would get those out about 40-50% of the time. I bought a Snap-on impact driver on eBay and it gets them out 100% of the time. Also, a few taps on the screw head with a flat punch and often they'll come right out, sometimes without an impact.
Ty for the longer video love the content please do more, longer videos love the 20+ min videos
Will do!
When using a impact driver always twist and turn not just beat it with a hammer " you may/may not have done it in the video but from my end it looked you were just beating it" . Great video as always!
I'm still towards the beginning of the video, but I've never seen him use an impact driver. He uses an impact wrench and an electric ratchet. He's even specified in other videos that the electric ratchet isn't an impact.
I just got to that part. When I think impact driver, I think of the electric 1/4" impact drivers. I always called what he tried an impact screwdriver. Mine has section your turn like a ratchet to set the direction, but some are automatic where you put a little twisting pressure before hitting it... I guess he should have checked the instructions.
2:58 Ha! It would take me a solid week to complete that list on my ride, if that. The tranny fluid, alone, would eat up my Sunday (2014 Camaro v6 auto).
Hey Ernest your supposed to turn the impact drive while you hit it with the hammer. You would’ve had them out in seconds.
I’m glad you warmed up to that impact screwdriver. Those screws might be more difficult in Utah than SoCal tho. 🤷🏼♂️
Lots of great tips and tricks in this video. 👍🏼
Your channel must be making some money. I'm watching today, and very many ads!
Great Video Ernest.
I use my Dewalt 1/2" impact with the correct head for those screws, I put it on setting speed 1 and it'll 90% of the time come out as long as you don't have it crooked on the screw. It's super easy, unless it's not on there correctly or the wrong bit is used.
another great video👍 hope you're getting better each day after your surgery. I'm not going to tell you how to use an impact because you know how the licence plate is bent did you know this that ?
i have a 2003 civic hatchback and when in second gear it would jolt with a little throttle so i diceded to change the mtf fluid in the gearbox and now it is great
The impact driver I have needs to be preloaded before you hit it. Just hitting it won't make it twist when you hit it.
I’ve only been able to get an impact driver to work a couple of times on set screws while doing breaks.
Vacuum pump - ruined gaskets due to pulling fluid into the pump, yup. Been there done that! Pissed me off!
When using the impact screw driver you'll have to turn the impact driver the way you want to screw and then pound it with a hammer :)
Standing while hitting it and Turing hard works best then sitting just a suggestion from another mobile mechanic 👨🔧 lol. But yes most of the time I drill them out.
You gotta twist the impact the direction you want to go and hit it at the same time
Yeah was thinking that. Other thing is don't baby it. I usually whack it a lot harder than that. That said, sometimes those screws are just fucked.
Vasselle makes the impact screwdriver for those rotor screws. Japanese industrial standard screw is what they are. Additionally the Vasselle screwdriver is a impact driver, hit it with a hammer and it rotates the shaft like a impact driver. Work great on my wife’s Honda Odyssey.
I push it in and turn counter clockwise as I hammer it and it works everytime but in new England I've definitely had to drill em out
Oh damn the mobile truck is outside. What's the progress on it? :)
Engine is almost done being built. Video coming soon!
The rear rotors didn't have cracks. Just imprints of the pads.
I wanna be a mobile mechanic do all my own work but I’m just don’t wanna deal with bad customers I wish I was out in the country working with old folks
How did you get the confidence to do this in the first place? I bought the tools, and I have memorized how to do it from RUclips. Problem is I am gun shy
Maybe get an aprentanceship at a shop until you’re comfortable. And building a customer base.
You are supposed to put the impact driver onto the screw without pressing it down, turn it in the direction you are trying to turn the screw, then whack it. The device works by using a ramp that slowly twists the bit as you impact it with the hammer. Just play with it by hand and you should notice that depending on what setting it is on, the bit will slowly twist as you press it in, but only if you have it set as such, otherwise its just whacking on the bolt with no rotational force.
I bought one specifically for those bits! That is about all they are good for but nice to have when used right! Because you can't impact a philips bit in a traditional manner without rounding it out lol
For those rotor screws Eric the car guys trick with a ball peen hammer round side against the screw head and hit the back of the hammer with another hammer. Works amazing Just wear ear plugs ffs
If you put the impact screwdriver on the floor and hit it u can make sure its turning the correct direction!
Flushing your brake system every 3 years or 36 miles is an excellent PM. Saves caliper pistons from forming pock marks and damaging them. Do the same on hydraulic power steering systems.
On the power steering fluid, back in the day we used to use an oil additive made or marketed by STP and several other brands. This was very good stuff for powersteering systems and prolonged the life of components. It could also be used in engines, gearboxes, transmissions and the diff where it worked wonders and reduced friction and heat. I could not say for some modern vehicles as they have seals and sensors that can be damaged by chemicals in additives.......or so the manufacturers say.....and their warranty conditions.
Seeing what motor they got and how well they maintain it it will last them forever
Ill tell you what, I am not a fan of pressing in the pistons all the way without opening the bleeder valve. I popped square cut seals doing that a few times, then you end up tearing apart the caliper or replacing it. All the pressure that is produced at the very end when you seat the piston all the way down (because at that point you have compressed it the farthest, so there is the most pressure build up) sometimes it will pop the seal and cause the caliper to leak. Theoretically that shouldn't be an issue, but it will happen every once in a while because the seal is being pushed outwards while the piston is moving inwards, which is not normal operation.
Normal operation the brake fluid is pushing the piston outwards, while the square cut seal is simply flexing forward, then lack of pressure the square cut seal actually springs backwards to release the brakes. Hence pressing in pistons with the bleeder closed does the opposite, moves the piston in, while all the force of the fluid will be flexing the seal outwards.
Reason why honda charges high for a spark plug change is most of the time we do a valve adjustment at the same time
In the crocs haha
The best way I've noticed to fill up those manual transmissions is to take out the speed sensor leave the fill plug off and then just add fluid till it pours out that in the car is level on the ground so you're definitely getting the right level only thing is you got to check the car back up to put the fill plug back in
I do the same as you except there's a 17mm fill plug on top of the trans.
That Acura is a Honda Accord in the EU. 🇸🇪🇪🇺
Honda owns Acura👍
@@rodneyconaway1600 Yes, it is the equivalent of Toyota’s Lexus brand.
@@yunus_aros My wife works at the engine plant in Anna Ohio for Honda's She works She puts on manifold's Oxygen sensors It rotate every few hours it's just a bare block when it's put on the line and by the time it hits the in the other side it's a complete motor ready to be created and shipped to Marysville Ohio
I swear by those impact screw removers. I've gotten out of a few sticky situations because of them. I think by the end you got it down but I've found that one big impact is better than more softer ones if that makes sense.
When a rotor is "Drilled and Slotted" that has nothing to do with heat dissipation
as in a radiant effect.
When brakes are applied forcefully- the lining material turns into a gas.
The gas acts like a "cushion" between the lining and rotor, (or drum) causing
what's referred to as "pedal fade". Harder application of the brakes has no effect,
and stopping power is greatly reduced. Incredibly dangerous.
The holes and slots allow the gas to escape, so there is no cushion action,
and the braking is more powerful under a hard stopping situation, such
as towing down a steep grade, or needing to frequently brake hard under
high speed as in a race, or being chased by Police or gang members.
There is one inherent drawback- all of that missing metal, and now
the cross section of the disk is also exposed- and these type of rotors wear
and rust very quickly, especially if exposed to water and salt. Wear can
be almost 2x as fast as with regular rotors.
Unless actually needed- the cool factor & novelty will wear off fast,
when they're being replaced earlier than expected.
That’s good information sir, I learned a few
Interesting. And always knowledgeable! Thank you!
I love your videos and watching your techniques. However, why would you think that power steering fluid flushes are not necessary? All fluids get dirty and break down just like engine oil and need to be changed at some interval.
I just use a impact driver and always have been successful, just use a good BFH
Did you try pushing in and turning when hitting it
Get the one off the snap on truck its amazing and I live in Wisconsin the rust belt
Hey Ernest, question for you: When you replace someone’s brake pads or any warrantied part from AutoZone, does the warranty still apply?
Thanks for another great video!
Specifically brake pads they won’t warranty labor because it’s a wear item. But anything no wear item is warrantied if I buy it on my account.
Move your hand down further on the hammer- you are "choking" it,
and it is useless as it has no inertia. The mass must be _swung_
hard enough, and then a rotation of the tool will occur.
Did you have to do some kind of break in procedure for those drilled and slotted rotors?
How much would you typically charge for a job like this?
👍👍👍👍
Hit the impact driver with the hammer way harder and push at the same time
I might have skipped it but was the power steering fluid changed.
28:52
Performs
Yuu nue wat hii mentt
For what it's worth, Walmart will accept oil and some Walmarts will accept coolant.
You need to twist as you hammer
How much do you charge for this kind of work
Do you test drive before and after ?
Depends
The last set of ads had a Napa ad (not a sponsor) in Spanish, would've been perfect for the channel if it had been AutoZone.
How many miles on this Acura
👍
Their a clucking noise coming out the front driver Side when I press the brakes the noise goes away
New Episode in Mobile Mechanic Work Day Series 2008 BMW 328i Radiator Replacement. ruclips.net/video/R5LG8PM2be8/видео.html
How u a mechanic and not know about the 3/8 phillips screw for the impact you can use a 1/2 adapter to the 3/8 and get that 3/8 phillips screw its like 6$ at home depot and you can always knock out them rotor screwd
Sometimes I wonder about this guy lol. I've learned alot from his videos. I have very little mechanical knowledge myself but a couple times this guy has thrown me for a loop.
I recycle my used coolant at my local Grease Monkey for free.
Where are you based off? I'd be interested in hiring you.
provo
I would think the manufacturer would have those screws removed before putting on the tire ,just to save money by reusing them. 🤷♂️
I recycle my coolant in a storm drain
Good guy 😔
For someone who takes good care of their car, WTF is going on with that license plate?
I had a customer want me to put tho screws back
Quick tip too: most rotors that come in the bag now days don’t have the anti rust oil. So no need to clean.
🤔
I don't understand why you don't like making long videos the average TV show is 30 mins there's no point in watching if the video is short
Not every job is interesting if I make it into a 20 minute video.
UNSUBSCRIBED
Okay??? Haha
@@RoadsideRescue Hey I'm sorry about that. That wasn't me, it was my girlfriend. She's jealous that I spend a lot of my time watching vehicle repair videos. I enjoy your content and excited when new videos come out. Like I said my apologies for her.
Haha no worries! I was just wondering what the issue was! :)
I see there are a lot of helpful hints, but I personally think the wording of most descriptions leave lots of missed and important details. While these impact drivers ARE very easy to use if done correctly, instructing someone to simply hold it in place a whack it with the hammer, just isn't going to cut it. Someone said "preload it", as if anyone who DOES NOT know how to use this is going to have a clue what that means...
So, IN DETAIL:
1) Find appropriate bit (bit that fits perfectly and DOES NOT WOBBLE AROUND LOOSE in the head of the fastener.
2) Insert bit into end of impact driver.
3) place tip of bit into fastener AND HOLD with pressure, while forcefully trying to make it turn the fastener in the correct direction. (You may need to PUSH hard while twisting, to MOVE the impact internals into the correct position for the desired direction.)
4) While holding a firm twisting pressure, strike the top of the impact driver until fastener frees up. This forces the internals to rotate in the selected direction. HINT: a 1 or 2 pound hammer will make this easier.
CAUTION: If the bit does not fit the fastener properly (seated all the way and snug) damage to the fastener WILL occur.
Some people may have NEVER used one before, so to help them, please include EVERY detail/step. Example: someone may not know that you have to apply force WHILE striking the tool... (it does take a little practice, and a LOT of paying attention to detail)
BONUS! These work on BOLTS TOO!
Informative as always! Thanks!