How to tweak your T4
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 ноя 2024
- Always an important, but ever so delicate process is to tweak the car. I guide you through the basics, and through my process of doing it! Feel free to ask questions if you have any doubts or concerns! Stay safe, and most importantly - stay at home!
Oh I've set my downstop on the rear to the wrong place, I set it from the bottom of the arm not the little loop :( thanks for all these video's Alex, greatly appreciated.
Cool video! What finish is that setup board? Is it Titan or Silver Grey?
Silver grey, #108302.
Hi Alex
when you adjust shock dial to adjust tweak.. then car height will be changed accordingly.. then how you handle this ?
If the preload has been adjusted by a bigger amount, I advice you to re-check ride height!
Hi Alex thanks for this. I'm confused as to why the lift test would not give perfectly symmetrical results if the car is not tweaked, the downstops are symmetrical, and masses are properly split l/r on the car... Can you please enlighten me? Thanks!
It can be due to tolerances in the parts, shock towers not being tightened down completely square etc. It's rare that the preload is exactly the same left and right even though the car is brand new, and everything is straight!
Hi Alex, great explanation as always.
Recently discovered a few tracks close to where I live that allow you to run 1/10 touring cars, 17.5 brushless motors with ESC in Blinky mode. Also I would really like to try Xray (was amazed reading history and philosophy on website). My main objective is to have a good time driving the car as well as the experience of the build and the maintenance and the tinkering and tweaking.
I would appreciate your help on a few questions:
1- Regarding the car, what model / version kit would you recommend?
2- I have a spare HW combo (a 17.5t XeRun V10 G3R and XeRun XR10 PRO G2) intended for a XB2. Can I use same combo or would you recommend another? Regarding 'Blinky mode' is this a setting regarding the timing that any of higher end ESCs can have or is it a special ESC?
3-Regarding basic options parts any recommendations to be prepared for wet and dry conditions?
I think this will help me from purchasing wrong or inadequate parts.
Thanks.
Hi mate,
1. If you're just starting out, you can get a recent T4 model usually for a very good price, for example a T4'20 or 21. The spares availability is very good and the cars are very strong/durable. They will give you a lot joy for little money. If you want to commit fully to the class, look no further than our new X4 platform which is a state of the art TC with the best possible performance.
2.That combo will work great for the 17.5T blinky class. I don't know if that class is raced locally where you are? You can use almost any ESC for blinky racing. The high end ESC's will have more options for brake settings for example, but also a cheaper ESC will work if it supports blinky mode.
3. Take a look at these links in terms of option parts info:
www.teamxray.com/teamxray/news/newsdesc.php?news_id=8289&kategoria=8289&catName=
facebook.com/alexander.hagberg/posts/4068796353149212
@@hagberg Thanks for swift and detailed explanation. I had a careful read of the specs of both cars and both look amazingly engineered. Even with a tame 17.5t motor it will take a long time for a rookie like me to explore all the potential they have to offer. If I could ask your opinion on one more point:
1- Out of the box and given the X4 offers more tuning possibilities without purchasing option parts, is it easier to make the X4 an easier car to drive and learn compared to the T4?
Thanks
@@vaamorais Yes, I can definitely say that the X4, even in its configuration, will be a lot easier/more forgiving to drive than the T4 thanks to its suspension design, and low center of gravity. The kit is expensive, but you won't need as many optional parts as you would on the T4 to bring it up to 100% race spec.
HI Alex, great video! After tweaking my T4 I got an interesting result being that my left front and right rear shock needed a lot more pre-load then the other two. What can this diagonal imbalance be an indication off?
Is your weight balance equal between left and right? Has the car had a big crash recently? Is the chassis/topdeck/bulhkeads all straight? It can also be due to tolerances in the parts, shock towers not being screwed down completely square etc. It's rare that the preload is exactly the same left and right even when the car is brand new, and everything is straight!
@@hagberg Thx for the reply, I'll check for differences in the shock tower, have not looked at that deeply yet. One more question: I check the tweak using a Hudy Quicktweak station and the results are not always great (tool says no tweak but then you get a tweaked car on the track). Can you do a video on that?
I'm using the Hudy Quick-Tweak station and to get the balance the pre-load causes one side of the chassis to be much higher than the other
If the preload differs by more than 1mm on the collar between left and right, you probably have something else in the car that isn't straight.
@@hagberg Any suggestions where to look.
@@rogersmith9066 Check your chassis, topdeck and bulkheads for straigthness. Check your shock lengths an downstops.
@@hagberg I checked all those and they were fine. The problem I think was caused by the roll bars. I disassembled them, checked them for flatness and reassambled them so that the arms came up at the same time and the problem was much reduced
Hi Alex can you talk about the rear holes on the standard hub, inside and outside and also the hub you can buy with the 1 hole in the middle? i am using the outside hole in the rear hub and find it really settles the back end down but nobody uses this position on any setup sheet. I am running on low to med grip ashphalt outdoor.
We used the outside and sometimes the middle hole on previous car platforms (such as the T3), but we haven't had much success with this upper link setting on the T4, as we feel that it simply settles the car down too much (the rear stays flatter on corner entry).
Hi Alex ,If i use corner weight scale to adjust preload of shock,will it get the same result as if using your method?
Not exactly. But it tweaks fine with the lift method, it usually balances out on the scales too. But one method doesn't substitute the other. I wouldn't tweak the car using the scales.
@@hagberg Do you mean corner weight scale is only for checking balance of the car ? When finding balance problem , we should adjust it by other method instead of using corner weight system to solve it?
@@ericdu8084 you can rely on the corner weight scales for small adjustments in preload. But always double check with the lift method. The only way to check the weight balance precisely with the scales it to use tie rods/shock clips so that shock preload isn't influencing your readings. Front to rear balance can generally be checked the normal way though.
@@hagberg Thanks for your help
how to decide whether to run on shorty or on long pack lipo?
ruclips.net/video/xMNcO4WrAgs/видео.html&t
Is there any point to try to tweak a car that isn't weight balanced?
The spring preload will be more equal between L and R if the weight balance is perfect, yes.
@@hagberg so you're saying if you knew you're driving a car without weight balance, you'd prefer to tweak it even if the sping preload would have to be different? Sorry beginner just getting started here
@@mhrcracing yes
Watch these vids religious Le like the Bible of xray tips 💯👍🍻