Almost 6 years later this video is amazing!! Thank you so much I learned another thing in this program from you! I don’t care if embrillance or hatch or even wilson is much more easier. SWP and SWA are very under valued!
Thank you SO much! This was the next thing I needed to learn how to do! I got SWP a month ago tomorrow and only had time to sit down and really really learn it this past week. I've learned how to separate colors and really leaning that. Then getting them in order was taking FOREVER because I found ORDER THREADS under the EDIT tab which is fine for a few, but when you are trying to do EIGHT eyelet tabs on one 5x7, that gets time consuming and I wondered if an easier way. Then a couple of days ago, another person's video popped up on my feed on how to order the colors with CTRL SHIFT! And I thought that was fantastic but thought I wish I could add some threads to lengthen something. THIS video of yours popped up on my RUclips feed when I was watching TV just before going to sleep! If I hadn't been so sleepy, I'd have gotten up to try it! Before I remembered about your video, I bought a design a few hours ago where the dogs tail was mysteriously short, well, no one is going to answer me on a holiday weekend and remembered your video and went in my history and found it1 WOW! Thank you, I have a few designs that NEED just a stitch or two! Thank you SO much!!! Even thought your video is 6 years old, it helped me SO much! I'm going to go see if you have more videos!
I found your video today. I was researching how to add the nap-tack stitch. When I added it to my name, it left a huge blank space without the nap-tack stitch in the middle of an O and I wanted to see if I could add stitches in so there wasn't a big blank space without the nap-tack stitch. Thank you. Your tutorial was perfect. Now I know how to edit stitches.
Hi Janet. I'm glad you found the tutorial video helpful. I hope you didn't go to the trouble of inserting stitches for that entire area of the Nap Tack that was missing them! A MUCH easier way to accomplish getting the Nap Tack to fill an area is to add another letter that fills the hole, such as an upper case I or something like that over the top of the O, then add your Nap Tack to that, then go back and just simply remove that extra letter from your design before saving it. This will force the program to create the Nap Tack to fill the entire area, and it's super simple to remove that extra letter. Just highlight it by clicking on it and press delete! Hope this additional information helps you. :-)
Hi Debbie! I am glad that you have found my video to be helpful. For the price, this program is a great value. Not sure if you are aware, but when you purchase, you get free updates for life, so when new features are created or things are changed, you can always stay up to date, without spending extra money.
I downloaded the 30 day free version to see if I could figure it out. OH MY GOODNESS! I can't even get a design in it to deal with. Will try again tomorrow. :)
Thank you so much for taking the time to produce your videos. I used this editing video today to correct a mistake in a purchased design. Very easy to understand, even with the various SWP updates since you made this tutorial. ~Pam
I figured out what I was doing wrong. I missed the part in the video where you stated to click split at stitch button. Thanks again for your videos they are very helpful and easy to follow. As long as someone pays attention. lol
+TheMillie56 Thank you for the feedback! I'm glad you found it easy to follow and hopefully this will be a technique you'll use over and over in SWP. I find I use it a lot! :-)
+Mya Twesten Hello again Mya, I followed your tutorial and removed and added several stitches but when I cam to stitch out they were still there? Do I need to do anything else?
+TheMillie56 Two things come to mind as to what the issue may be. 1) You didn't save the design after you changed it. 2) You saved the design, gave it a different name, but when you loaded the design to your machine, you loaded the unchanged one, rather than the changed one (which is really easy to do..been there, done that!). 3) You didn't get all of the stitches removed that were actually there and only removed part of them. I would need to be able to see the design in order to help further. Also, using the stitch simulator in SWP set on speed 30-50 or so as a final check after editing a design is helpful. You can really see exactly what the design is going to do when you get it to the machine.
what do I do if I see a stitch has been skipped? I insert a stitch, but the stitch number just changes but still skips a number of the next stitch. I have also sewn them out a few times, and my thread always breaks there...it doesn't know what to do! Thanks!
Exactly what I needed. question for you. how can I delete multiple stitches at once? I need to delete the very first set of under layer stitches of a font for each layer. when stitching it out the outline stitches show from under the satin ones so I just want to remove them all. On the program the stitches look fine but when stitched out it shows. thank you in advance!
Hi Carolyn. I'm glad that the video has been helpful for you. What I think I hear you saying is that your underlay is showing (or peeking out) from under your finished satin letter. You do not want to remove your underlay, as underlay is important in providing stability to the top stitches. I would say that either you have an issue with stabilization, or a font set that is not very well digitized. Generally when underlay shows on a well digitized design, it's because of the pull of the top stitches on the fabric, drawing the fabric in, causing those underlay stitches to show. This is often corrected by using a bit more stabilizer, either a different kind or an additional layer. If you are floating rather than hooping, that can be a cause too. So, to actually answer your question: Once you isolate the stitches that you want to move or delete, you can select multiple stitches by holding down the SHIFT key on your keyboard while clicking the stitches. Once you have selected all of the stitches you want to move or delete you can then release the shift key and proceed as usual with whichever function you are going to do. If you're deleting them, then press the delete button in the program. If you're moving them, press the CTRL key and move them all at once with your mouse. I would recommend highlighting several stitches that are in a line, then just moving them over under the satin a little further. If they are really close to the edge, that could be why they are peeking through. Don't try to do too many at once. A click on a stitch without the shift key pressed will select only the stitch you clicked on, so if selecting multiple and say you missed one, press the shift key again before clicking on the one you missed. Hope this helps.
I did have info in the video about using the Shift key to select multiple stitches as an annotation (text boxes within the video), but RUclips decided to do away with allowing those. I wasn't aware that they would actually not be available in previously released videos.
Thank you for the video, it is very helpful. I have followed the directions given in your video but when I click on any stitching point in the design none of the stitch numbers are showing up. I am trying to change part of the design into two different colors in the pattern. Any suggestions of what I may be doing wrong? Thank you again.
Wow great teacher. If I buy swp will I get tutorials that come with it? You obviously know the program very well. How does one learn so much? I realize some is trial and error, but you are way above that. I get frustrated with the lack of instruction. I guess I’m curious how you learned such in depth detail of how to use this program. Maybe you’re just gifted! I’m not! Im a C student not for lack of trying it’s just how I am. I can’t brag about being an A student! But I am capable!
Hi Johanne! Thank you for the wonderful compliment! I've been using this program for several years, so there's a lot of experience behind this. I actually learned this technique because I asked a question in a FB group and someone more experienced than I answered it with instructions. I then sat down and figured it out. Seeing that there was no visual aid for this, I decided to make the tutorial. I am a very visual learner, and realize that there are many others like me. I learned a lot of how to use this program from other tutorials, from asking questions of those more experienced than myself and from just sitting down with the program and a design file and playing with the program (remember to NOT save over your original pattern!). I do have a Pinterest board that has nothing but SewWhat Pro tutorials listed in it, and anyone is welcome to follow it. It contains the videos that I felt were the best at explaining different tasks. SewWhat Pro comes with the manual (downloadable online). My advice if you're considering SWP, is to watch some tutorial videos and get an idea of what the program can do (it's pretty powerful for the price), then download the trial when you have time to devote to learning. You'll get 30 days and 60 saves This is saving 60 times, not necessarily 60 different projects. Each time you save, it's counted, so you can use these up pretty fast. Also, in trial mode, you will only be able to save the first 3 color stops. I have yet to find something that the program won't do that I need. I have been very happy with the purchase of this program. Here's a link to my Pinterest board if you or anyone else cares to follow: www.pinterest.com/aussiedexter/sewwhat-pro/
Ty for taking the time. That’s exactly my plan. I’ve asked a few people the same thing and they are vague and not really interested in helping me out. Don’t know why. I believe in helping because we all started out as beginners in something. Anyway. I went to your Pinterest link and it’s asking me to sign up. I have Pinterest already . Does yours have a more specific name cuz I wanted to follow you in there. Ty again. I’m trying to make a YT channel and am finding it’s quite slow in learning the editing..getting subscribers... I am a nurse who wants to change careers. I’m told I’m creative!! I am such a dreamer!!! But I do want to create digitized embroidery. So ty again.
That's odd, not sure why you would be asked to sign up, unless you weren't signed in to your account when you tried to access it. It's not any kind of a special account. You can also maybe try to just do a search for my name instead. My avatar is the same one as here. There are also help groups on Facebook. The one I belong to is the one that is just named "SewWhat Pro". It's a great place to read questions posted by others to learn, as well as ask a question when you get stuck.
great tutorial ! - Is there a way to add density on this program??? or is that in sew art??? I'm new to both and my designs turn out good I just wish the letters would have more filling
+Flying Lady 76 Thank you for your comment. I'm glad the video is helpful to you. Regarding your "missing" icons, it may be a toolbar that is not set to show. Click on the "view" menu, then hover your mouse over "toolbars and docking windows". Make sure there is a check mark next to each of the toolbars. If there is not, left click your mouse on those that are missing the check, and you should see them appear. If this doesn't help, please reply with what icons are missing, and are they on the screen but just grayed out where they won't work or totally just not there. I'll try to help you.
+PCGamerX is correct, the zoom tool referred to in the video is now located in the lower right corner of your SWP window. if you watch the video again, there are annotations I added a couple days ago with additional information. The zoom tool change is mentioned in the annotations (on screen text) and the area where the zoom tool is now located is highlighted with a box around the area where you will find it.
Is there any other way to edit the stitches beside the one you demonstrated? It doesn't matter how well my digitized image is but the quality of my stitches is horrible. I can't possibly edit each individual stitches. I understand if I had only a few stitches to edit but not hundreds. Your help would be greatly appreciated!
+mee thao Not to my knowledge. Is it just this design that is not stitching well or are you having problems with designs purchased from reputable sources? If you're having trouble with other designs, I'd say there is likely something wrong with your machine, or you are not threading properly, not hooping properly or are not stabilizing properly. If it is this one design, are you trying to digitize it yourself in SewArt or is this a design you purchased? If it's a purchased design, contact the digitizer and ask them to fix it. If it is a design you've made in SewArt, then either your design wasn't cleaned up enough before you digitized it or you need more practice with settings, etc. I have found that just about everything done in SewArt needs some touch up of the stitches to make it perfect. The technique I have shared in the video isn't so bad once you know how to do it and have practiced it.
If a file does not have the applique outline and tack down stitching steps can you add them? I have a file where lettering is only outlined in a satin stitch, but I'd like to use it as an applique. I have never used this program before and was considering downloading the trial version for 30 days to see if I can adjust the file I bought.
Yes, you certainly can add color stops for placement and tack down steps, but I would do it a much easier way than adding each individual stitch, which is what this video covers. I just tried it with a letter of my own and it worked perfectly. Open your design in SWP and run the stitch simulator, so you can see where the stitching for the satin begins and the direction of travel. Note this information, as you will want your new stitch lines to begin at the same place and travel the same direction. Zoom your design in so it's easy to work with. Click on the border tool icon (or choose it from the tools menu). For your placement line, click running outline for the stitch type, and set the length at about 20 (rest of the settings don't factor in here). Beginning where you noted the satin started, click carefully down the center of the satin stitch all the way around the letter, in the direction the satin traveled. Changing the existing satin stitch temporarily to a light color like yellow or light gray before you begin will help you easily see where you are placing the line. Click the mouse to make a line. You're not placing individual stitches here, just creating a path for the stitches that will be created to follow. Make the mouse clicks far enough apart that you're not making a ton of them (won't hurt, but will take you forever), but close enough that it follows the center of the satin. Curves you'll have to click closer together, straight lines you can click farther apart. Once you are all the way around, click the "save border stitches" button (upper left above design). If you make a mistake when making your line (clicked in the wrong spot), press the delete button on your keyboard (the undo button doesn't undo mouse clicks). Once you have the placement line done, you can proceed to the tack down. Repeat the process as described above, this time selecting satin outline as the stitch type, and using a setting of about 20 for the satin thickness and 10 for the satin stride. This will give you a zig zag for the tack down stitch. You may need to adjust the thickness (which refers to the width), depending upon how wide your existing finish satin is. Make sure the tack down stitch ends up being plenty narrower than the finish satin so it doesn't show once the satin is done. To test it, do just a short line and save the border stitches and click on that color stop to view how it looks. Then you can delete that color stop, make any adjustments that might be needed to the settings and continue. To delete the color stop, right click on the color swatch and select "delete thread" from the menu that comes up. Once you have added the color stops for the placement and tack down, you'll need to re-order your color stops so they are in the right order for stitching (the new ones will be at the end of the list). Remember that with the trial, you can only save 3 color stops, so don't add anything else to the design. There is a video on how to re-order the color stops if you don't know how. One other thing to note, the satin you create here will have a straight stitch underlay, which will run the opposite direction as your zig zag. You can delete those stitches (following this video) if you wish, they won't be necessary for the tack down. It will give you something else to learn on the trial too! ;-) If you get stuck, let me know and I will try to help you further. Please let me know how this worked out for you too!
This is awesome! Thanks so much for the super detailed "newbie" instructions. I will try this! I don't know how to re-order the color stops...yet, but will try to find the video you mentioned. I'm not sure I understand what you stated after "one other thing to note", but I'm hoping it will make sense once I get that far - if not . . . I'll be back!! LOL! =) I am making surprise Disney Tshirts for my sister and her family. They are taking their kids to WDW for the first time and they SO deserve this trip after all the hardships they've been facing. I have to get these done and in the mail to them before they step on a plane in 10 days....ACK!
You're very welcome. I am happy to help. Here's a video on how to change the order of the threads. ruclips.net/video/NFHpOKSIvzM/видео.html&feature=share The satin tack down that you will be creating with the border tool will have an underlay stitch that is a running stitch. Play the satin (zig zag) stitch color stop in the stitch simulator after you make it. You will see what I mean. It will stitch a straight line all the way around the letter, then come back and start doing the zig zag. You only want the zig zag, not the straight stitch, so you'll have to cut that part out.
Hi Debra. When you split a design in the middle of the color stop, you split the color stop into two color stops. To join them again, you would need to join the color stops. Keep in mind though that if you've created a jump in doing so, you will have a thread to cut, and you'll probably want to add a lock stitch (on the cutting toolbar) so that you don't have it unravel on you.
@@myatwesten thank you, the problem is there are now jump stitches going from left to right instead of just connecting up and down to the next closest. I appreciate your time.
@@debrabrown7776 Are you on Facebook? If so, I could help you by messenger there, I would need to see screen shots of what you're getting and what you're trying to do in order to help more.
Hi Sandi. This video is several years old, and after it was created, the developer moved the zoom tool to the lower right corner of the SWP window. It is now a slider bar with a + at one end and a - at the other. Moving the slider toward the + will zoom your design in. Hope this answers your question!
Is there any way to adjust the stitch length of a design? I have a heart stipple design that I want to change the stitch length and I can't seem to figure out how to do it (if it's even doable) thanks
+Ellen Dukehart Not sure exactly what your design looks like or how close the stitches are, but you could delete every other stitch in the design, which would make the remaining stitches further apart. If you need to, you can shift some of the stitches closer together as needed. Hope this helps.
+Robert Schaefer The stitch between the I and the L is a jump stitch. The only way I know of to eliminate a jump stitch is to split the design so that the letters have color stops after each one so the machine is forced to stop, tie off the thread and cut. That would mean though that you need to manually start the machine again (at least with most single needles). Typically you would just trim that thread if you left the letters joined as a single color stop. I hope that answers your question.
I've got one that goes across the entire pattern for some reason. I've split it 5 times and the stitch keeps coming back. I used an eraser this time after splitting it and that seems to have gotten rid of it. Thanks.
+Robert Schaefer There was probably one little rogue stitch way off on the side. I've seen that happen with many designs from some of the "cheaper" sites. All it takes is one stitch point for that to happen. The way I discover if that is the case, is I get the stitch points visible on the screen and then click the "split to stitch" button on the cutting toolbar. Then click somewhere near where that thread goes into the design and use the arrow keys to slowly advance or back up until the stitch point that is highlighted jumps. Then click on the delete key in the cutting toolbar to delete that one stitch (or you can move it over into the area where it should have been as an anchor stitch).
I have a question about the magnifying glass on your tool bar...i just purchased this software and I dont have that feature and I really need it...I cant even edit my stitches because I cant see them as well as your screen allows you. I have a zoom feature at the bottom of my screen but it is no where as detailed as yours. Please help!
Hello Seadew...sorry for the delay in replying to your question, hopefully you figured it out before my answer here. Unfortunately I don't always get a notification that someone has commented so I don't see them until someone else comments. To answer your question: The version of the software that was used for this video was prior to a change in the zoom tool. There is no longer any magnifying glass on the toolbar. The zoom tool is now a slider at the bottom right of your window. This is the only zoom tool, other than using the wheel on your mouse, which does the same thing. I am not sure why you would be having trouble seeing the stitches to edit them, perhaps you are not zooming in enough? If you click the line that the slider is on, rather than the + and - buttons, the slider will move in increments of 100. You can also grab the slider with your mouse and move it by clicking, holding and moving. I have no trouble seeing the stitches, but you do have to zoom in...way in, in order to see them. Also, unless you have the cutting toolbar open you won't see the stitch points, unless you have "stitch points" checked on the view menu. Hope this helps clear up any confusion.
Almost 6 years later this video is amazing!! Thank you so much I learned another thing in this program from you! I don’t care if embrillance or hatch or even wilson is much more easier. SWP and SWA are very under valued!
Thank you SO much! This was the next thing I needed to learn how to do! I got SWP a month ago tomorrow and only had time to sit down and really really learn it this past week. I've learned how to separate colors and really leaning that. Then getting them in order was taking FOREVER because I found ORDER THREADS under the EDIT tab which is fine for a few, but when you are trying to do EIGHT eyelet tabs on one 5x7, that gets time consuming and I wondered if an easier way.
Then a couple of days ago, another person's video popped up on my feed on how to order the colors with CTRL SHIFT! And I thought that was fantastic but thought I wish I could add some threads to lengthen something. THIS video of yours popped up on my RUclips feed when I was watching TV just before going to sleep! If I hadn't been so sleepy, I'd have gotten up to try it!
Before I remembered about your video, I bought a design a few hours ago where the dogs tail was mysteriously short, well, no one is going to answer me on a holiday weekend and remembered your video and went in my history and found it1 WOW! Thank you, I have a few designs that NEED just a stitch or two! Thank you SO much!!! Even thought your video is 6 years old, it helped me SO much! I'm going to go see if you have more videos!
I found your video today. I was researching how to add the nap-tack stitch. When I added it to my name, it left a huge blank space without the nap-tack stitch in the middle of an O and I wanted to see if I could add stitches in so there wasn't a big blank space without the nap-tack stitch. Thank you. Your tutorial was perfect. Now I know how to edit stitches.
Hi Janet. I'm glad you found the tutorial video helpful. I hope you didn't go to the trouble of inserting stitches for that entire area of the Nap Tack that was missing them! A MUCH easier way to accomplish getting the Nap Tack to fill an area is to add another letter that fills the hole, such as an upper case I or something like that over the top of the O, then add your Nap Tack to that, then go back and just simply remove that extra letter from your design before saving it. This will force the program to create the Nap Tack to fill the entire area, and it's super simple to remove that extra letter. Just highlight it by clicking on it and press delete! Hope this additional information helps you. :-)
You my dear are an awesome teacher. Clear, concise, direct, on point, on topic! Thank you.!
Thank you Gayleen!
I am watching the SewWhat Pro videos to determine if I want to purchase. This has been MOST helpful.
Hi Debbie! I am glad that you have found my video to be helpful. For the price, this program is a great value. Not sure if you are aware, but when you purchase, you get free updates for life, so when new features are created or things are changed, you can always stay up to date, without spending extra money.
I downloaded the 30 day free version to see if I could figure it out. OH MY GOODNESS! I can't even get a design in it to deal with. Will try again tomorrow. :)
I am. It will be sometime tomorrow. Thanks much.
You're welcome. Glad to help.
Thank you so much for taking the time to produce your videos. I used this editing video today to correct a mistake in a purchased design. Very easy to understand, even with the various SWP updates since you made this tutorial. ~Pam
I figured out what I was doing wrong. I missed the part in the video where you stated to click split at stitch button. Thanks again for your videos they are very helpful and easy to follow. As long as someone pays attention. lol
Yup, miss one little step and it won't work! Glad you figured it out!
wow I am a newbie but with help like this I am going to be a pro in no time THANKS x
thankyou for the time you took to make this. will watch it a couple more times but gives me an insight into digitising as well.
Myra, great video. I'm just learning SWP and your video was just what I needed. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment Angel! I am glad the video helped you learn a new technique! :-)
Thankyou Mya for the simple to follow instructional video, I found it very easy to follow
+TheMillie56 Thank you for the feedback! I'm glad you found it easy to follow and hopefully this will be a technique you'll use over and over in SWP. I find I use it a lot! :-)
+Mya Twesten Hello again Mya, I followed your tutorial and removed and added several stitches but when I cam to stitch out they were still there? Do I need to do anything else?
+TheMillie56 Two things come to mind as to what the issue may be. 1) You didn't save the design after you changed it. 2) You saved the design, gave it a different name, but when you loaded the design to your machine, you loaded the unchanged one, rather than the changed one (which is really easy to do..been there, done that!). 3) You didn't get all of the stitches removed that were actually there and only removed part of them. I would need to be able to see the design in order to help further. Also, using the stitch simulator in SWP set on speed 30-50 or so as a final check after editing a design is helpful. You can really see exactly what the design is going to do when you get it to the machine.
+Mya Twesten Thankyou again Mya, I will try again, yes I did change the name lol
Thank you. Appreciate the heads up about viewing on mobile device.
Thank you so very much this help me out tremendously. You did a great job explaining the steps
what do I do if I see a stitch has been skipped? I insert a stitch, but the stitch number just changes but still skips a number of the next stitch. I have also sewn them out a few times, and my thread always breaks there...it doesn't know what to do! Thanks!
Thank you for making it quick and simple
Thank you so much! I was so confused and now its easy to fix things.
Awesome! Thank you for the feedback Jill!
Thank you for sharing this. It is very helpful.
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thank you for the feedback.
Exactly what I needed. question for you. how can I delete multiple stitches at once? I need to delete the very first set of under layer stitches of a font for each layer. when stitching it out the outline stitches show from under the satin ones so I just want to remove them all. On the program the stitches look fine but when stitched out it shows. thank you in advance!
Hi Carolyn. I'm glad that the video has been helpful for you. What I think I hear you saying is that your underlay is showing (or peeking out) from under your finished satin letter. You do not want to remove your underlay, as underlay is important in providing stability to the top stitches. I would say that either you have an issue with stabilization, or a font set that is not very well digitized. Generally when underlay shows on a well digitized design, it's because of the pull of the top stitches on the fabric, drawing the fabric in, causing those underlay stitches to show. This is often corrected by using a bit more stabilizer, either a different kind or an additional layer. If you are floating rather than hooping, that can be a cause too. So, to actually answer your question: Once you isolate the stitches that you want to move or delete, you can select multiple stitches by holding down the SHIFT key on your keyboard while clicking the stitches. Once you have selected all of the stitches you want to move or delete you can then release the shift key and proceed as usual with whichever function you are going to do. If you're deleting them, then press the delete button in the program. If you're moving them, press the CTRL key and move them all at once with your mouse. I would recommend highlighting several stitches that are in a line, then just moving them over under the satin a little further. If they are really close to the edge, that could be why they are peeking through. Don't try to do too many at once. A click on a stitch without the shift key pressed will select only the stitch you clicked on, so if selecting multiple and say you missed one, press the shift key again before clicking on the one you missed. Hope this helps.
I did have info in the video about using the Shift key to select multiple stitches as an annotation (text boxes within the video), but RUclips decided to do away with allowing those. I wasn't aware that they would actually not be available in previously released videos.
would have been nice to have seen stitch outs before and after to show what was accomplished. otherwise, pretty good video.
Thank you SO MUCH! This was exactly what I was looking for!
Gracious, this was exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!
thank you so much! I had a design that was driving me crazy
You're welcome. Once I learned how to do this, it was a total game changer! I use this technique all the time on designs.
Thank you for the video, it is very helpful. I have followed the directions given in your video but when I click on any stitching point in the design none of the stitch numbers are showing up. I am trying to change part of the design into two different colors in the pattern. Any suggestions of what I may be doing wrong? Thank you again.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Love love love Mya, Thank you soo much. :)
You're welcome Christa!
Wow great teacher. If I buy swp will I get tutorials that come with it? You obviously know the program very well. How does one learn so much? I realize some is trial and error, but you are way above that. I get frustrated with the lack of instruction. I guess I’m curious how you learned such in depth detail of how to use this program. Maybe you’re just gifted! I’m not! Im a C student not for lack of trying it’s just how I am. I can’t brag about being an A student! But I am capable!
Hi Johanne! Thank you for the wonderful compliment! I've been using this program for several years, so there's a lot of experience behind this. I actually learned this technique because I asked a question in a FB group and someone more experienced than I answered it with instructions. I then sat down and figured it out. Seeing that there was no visual aid for this, I decided to make the tutorial. I am a very visual learner, and realize that there are many others like me. I learned a lot of how to use this program from other tutorials, from asking questions of those more experienced than myself and from just sitting down with the program and a design file and playing with the program (remember to NOT save over your original pattern!). I do have a Pinterest board that has nothing but SewWhat Pro tutorials listed in it, and anyone is welcome to follow it. It contains the videos that I felt were the best at explaining different tasks. SewWhat Pro comes with the manual (downloadable online). My advice if you're considering SWP, is to watch some tutorial videos and get an idea of what the program can do (it's pretty powerful for the price), then download the trial when you have time to devote to learning. You'll get 30 days and 60 saves This is saving 60 times, not necessarily 60 different projects. Each time you save, it's counted, so you can use these up pretty fast. Also, in trial mode, you will only be able to save the first 3 color stops. I have yet to find something that the program won't do that I need. I have been very happy with the purchase of this program. Here's a link to my Pinterest board if you or anyone else cares to follow: www.pinterest.com/aussiedexter/sewwhat-pro/
Ty for taking the time. That’s exactly my plan. I’ve asked a few people the same thing and they are vague and not really interested in helping me out. Don’t know why. I believe in helping because we all started out as beginners in something. Anyway. I went to your Pinterest link and it’s asking me to sign up. I have Pinterest already . Does yours have a more specific name cuz I wanted to follow you in there. Ty again. I’m trying to make a YT channel and am finding it’s quite slow in learning the editing..getting subscribers... I am a nurse who wants to change careers. I’m told I’m creative!! I am such a dreamer!!! But I do want to create digitized embroidery. So ty again.
That's odd, not sure why you would be asked to sign up, unless you weren't signed in to your account when you tried to access it. It's not any kind of a special account. You can also maybe try to just do a search for my name instead. My avatar is the same one as here. There are also help groups on Facebook. The one I belong to is the one that is just named "SewWhat Pro". It's a great place to read questions posted by others to learn, as well as ask a question when you get stuck.
great tutorial ! - Is there a way to add density on this program??? or is that in sew art??? I'm new to both and my designs turn out good I just wish the letters would have more filling
I answered this for you in the other video where you posted the same question.
Thank you thank you thank you sooooooo much 😃
Thank you for the great video. It is very helpful. Now all I need to do is figure out why I am missing icons from my tool bar. Can't figure that out.
+Flying Lady 76 Thank you for your comment. I'm glad the video is helpful to you. Regarding your "missing" icons, it may be a toolbar that is not set to show. Click on the "view" menu, then hover your mouse over "toolbars and docking windows". Make sure there is a check mark next to each of the toolbars. If there is not, left click your mouse on those that are missing the check, and you should see them appear. If this doesn't help, please reply with what icons are missing, and are they on the screen but just grayed out where they won't work or totally just not there. I'll try to help you.
You are most welcome.
+Flying Lady 76 if your referring to the zoom i found mine on bottom right of screen
+PCGamerX is correct, the zoom tool referred to in the video is now located in the lower right corner of your SWP window. if you watch the video again, there are annotations I added a couple days ago with additional information. The zoom tool change is mentioned in the annotations (on screen text) and the area where the zoom tool is now located is highlighted with a box around the area where you will find it.
Thank you. Found it.
Thank you!
thanks, so helpful
Is there any other way to edit the stitches beside the one you demonstrated? It doesn't matter how well my digitized image is but the quality of my stitches is horrible. I can't possibly edit each individual stitches. I understand if I had only a few stitches to edit but not hundreds. Your help would be greatly appreciated!
+mee thao Not to my knowledge. Is it just this design that is not stitching well or are you having problems with designs purchased from reputable sources? If you're having trouble with other designs, I'd say there is likely something wrong with your machine, or you are not threading properly, not hooping properly or are not stabilizing properly. If it is this one design, are you trying to digitize it yourself in SewArt or is this a design you purchased? If it's a purchased design, contact the digitizer and ask them to fix it. If it is a design you've made in SewArt, then either your design wasn't cleaned up enough before you digitized it or you need more practice with settings, etc. I have found that just about everything done in SewArt needs some touch up of the stitches to make it perfect. The technique I have shared in the video isn't so bad once you know how to do it and have practiced it.
+Mya Twesten okay thanks so much. it's actually my designs I'm trying to stitch. I will keep on trying and maybe upgrade to a more expensive software
If a file does not have the applique outline and tack down stitching steps can you add them? I have a file where lettering is only outlined in a satin stitch, but I'd like to use it as an applique. I have never used this program before and was considering downloading the trial version for 30 days to see if I can adjust the file I bought.
Yes, you certainly can add color stops for placement and tack down steps, but I would do it a much easier way than adding each individual stitch, which is what this video covers. I just tried it with a letter of my own and it worked perfectly. Open your design in SWP and run the stitch simulator, so you can see where the stitching for the satin begins and the direction of travel. Note this information, as you will want your new stitch lines to begin at the same place and travel the same direction. Zoom your design in so it's easy to work with. Click on the border tool icon (or choose it from the tools menu). For your placement line, click running outline for the stitch type, and set the length at about 20 (rest of the settings don't factor in here). Beginning where you noted the satin started, click carefully down the center of the satin stitch all the way around the letter, in the direction the satin traveled. Changing the existing satin stitch temporarily to a light color like yellow or light gray before you begin will help you easily see where you are placing the line. Click the mouse to make a line. You're not placing individual stitches here, just creating a path for the stitches that will be created to follow. Make the mouse clicks far enough apart that you're not making a ton of them (won't hurt, but will take you forever), but close enough that it follows the center of the satin. Curves you'll have to click closer together, straight lines you can click farther apart. Once you are all the way around, click the "save border stitches" button (upper left above design). If you make a mistake when making your line (clicked in the wrong spot), press the delete button on your keyboard (the undo button doesn't undo mouse clicks). Once you have the placement line done, you can proceed to the tack down. Repeat the process as described above, this time selecting satin outline as the stitch type, and using a setting of about 20 for the satin thickness and 10 for the satin stride. This will give you a zig zag for the tack down stitch. You may need to adjust the thickness (which refers to the width), depending upon how wide your existing finish satin is. Make sure the tack down stitch ends up being plenty narrower than the finish satin so it doesn't show once the satin is done. To test it, do just a short line and save the border stitches and click on that color stop to view how it looks. Then you can delete that color stop, make any adjustments that might be needed to the settings and continue. To delete the color stop, right click on the color swatch and select "delete thread" from the menu that comes up. Once you have added the color stops for the placement and tack down, you'll need to re-order your color stops so they are in the right order for stitching (the new ones will be at the end of the list). Remember that with the trial, you can only save 3 color stops, so don't add anything else to the design. There is a video on how to re-order the color stops if you don't know how. One other thing to note, the satin you create here will have a straight stitch underlay, which will run the opposite direction as your zig zag. You can delete those stitches (following this video) if you wish, they won't be necessary for the tack down. It will give you something else to learn on the trial too! ;-) If you get stuck, let me know and I will try to help you further. Please let me know how this worked out for you too!
This is awesome! Thanks so much for the super detailed "newbie" instructions. I will try this! I don't know how to re-order the color stops...yet, but will try to find the video you mentioned. I'm not sure I understand what you stated after "one other thing to note", but I'm hoping it will make sense once I get that far - if not . . . I'll be back!! LOL! =) I am making surprise Disney Tshirts for my sister and her family. They are taking their kids to WDW for the first time and they SO deserve this trip after all the hardships they've been facing. I have to get these done and in the mail to them before they step on a plane in 10 days....ACK!
You're very welcome. I am happy to help. Here's a video on how to change the order of the threads. ruclips.net/video/NFHpOKSIvzM/видео.html&feature=share The satin tack down that you will be creating with the border tool will have an underlay stitch that is a running stitch. Play the satin (zig zag) stitch color stop in the stitch simulator after you make it. You will see what I mean. It will stitch a straight line all the way around the letter, then come back and start doing the zig zag. You only want the zig zag, not the straight stitch, so you'll have to cut that part out.
Not sure if you still monitor this or if anyone sees this can help lol.... how do you connect stitches back together after they've been split?
Hi Debra. When you split a design in the middle of the color stop, you split the color stop into two color stops. To join them again, you would need to join the color stops. Keep in mind though that if you've created a jump in doing so, you will have a thread to cut, and you'll probably want to add a lock stitch (on the cutting toolbar) so that you don't have it unravel on you.
@@myatwesten thank you, the problem is there are now jump stitches going from left to right instead of just connecting up and down to the next closest. I appreciate your time.
@@debrabrown7776 Are you on Facebook? If so, I could help you by messenger there, I would need to see screen shots of what you're getting and what you're trying to do in order to help more.
Okay I don't have the magnifying glass on my toolbar. How do I add the magnifying glass?
Hi Sandi. This video is several years old, and after it was created, the developer moved the zoom tool to the lower right corner of the SWP window. It is now a slider bar with a + at one end and a - at the other. Moving the slider toward the + will zoom your design in. Hope this answers your question!
Is there any way to adjust the stitch length of a design? I have a heart stipple design that I want to change the stitch length and I can't seem to figure out how to do it (if it's even doable) thanks
+Ellen Dukehart Not sure exactly what your design looks like or how close the stitches are, but you could delete every other stitch in the design, which would make the remaining stitches further apart. If you need to, you can shift some of the stitches closer together as needed. Hope this helps.
Thanks - I will give it a try.
salut j'ai un logo en format PNG est ce possible de pouvoir le numérisé avec le logiciel SewWhat Pro?
SewWhat Pro does not digitize. You would need SewArt for digitizing. A .PNG could be used in SewArt.
The stitch from the I to the L. How do you get rid of that?
+Robert Schaefer The stitch between the I and the L is a jump stitch. The only way I know of to eliminate a jump stitch is to split the design so that the letters have color stops after each one so the machine is forced to stop, tie off the thread and cut. That would mean though that you need to manually start the machine again (at least with most single needles). Typically you would just trim that thread if you left the letters joined as a single color stop. I hope that answers your question.
I've got one that goes across the entire pattern for some reason. I've split it 5 times and the stitch keeps coming back. I used an eraser this time after splitting it and that seems to have gotten rid of it. Thanks.
+Robert Schaefer There was probably one little rogue stitch way off on the side. I've seen that happen with many designs from some of the "cheaper" sites. All it takes is one stitch point for that to happen. The way I discover if that is the case, is I get the stitch points visible on the screen and then click the "split to stitch" button on the cutting toolbar. Then click somewhere near where that thread goes into the design and use the arrow keys to slowly advance or back up until the stitch point that is highlighted jumps. Then click on the delete key in the cutting toolbar to delete that one stitch (or you can move it over into the area where it should have been as an anchor stitch).
Myaaaaaaaa 🤎💫
I have a question about the magnifying glass on your tool bar...i just purchased this software and I dont have that feature and I really need it...I cant even edit my stitches because I cant see them as well as your screen allows you. I have a zoom feature at the bottom of my screen but it is no where as detailed as yours. Please help!
Hello Seadew...sorry for the delay in replying to your question, hopefully you figured it out before my answer here. Unfortunately I don't always get a notification that someone has commented so I don't see them until someone else comments. To answer your question: The version of the software that was used for this video was prior to a change in the zoom tool. There is no longer any magnifying glass on the toolbar. The zoom tool is now a slider at the bottom right of your window. This is the only zoom tool, other than using the wheel on your mouse, which does the same thing. I am not sure why you would be having trouble seeing the stitches to edit them, perhaps you are not zooming in enough? If you click the line that the slider is on, rather than the + and - buttons, the slider will move in increments of 100. You can also grab the slider with your mouse and move it by clicking, holding and moving. I have no trouble seeing the stitches, but you do have to zoom in...way in, in order to see them. Also, unless you have the cutting toolbar open you won't see the stitch points, unless you have "stitch points" checked on the view menu. Hope this helps clear up any confusion.