Last night the IMA and check engine lights came on again so the fix only lasted us three weeks this time. We were able to get it inspected before then so I won't be taking the battery pack out for about two years since the car works fine anyway. We also had problems with the AC compressor and the dealership removed the AC belt which is driven off both the engine and the IMA motor. This may be related to the cause of our light since I was pretty confident that the battery pack was OK, but it is hard to say. Anyway, fair warning to get your car inspected ASAP after doing this procedure.
You're right, it's not good to use because if you touch any part of the solder to itself it creates a massive spark that is hot enough to melt the solder. I did it a few times, but since it was the only conductive material I had that was long enough I decided to use it and be really careful to not touch the solder to itself.
Hey Roe, I left the batteries discharged until I put them into the vehicle. In the last step I use the car to charge the entire pack all at once by revving the engine to around 3000 RPM in neutral for about two minutes.
I believe the measured voltage will depend on if the module is fully charged or not. The first time I bought one on Ebay it measured around 16. Of course we do not fully discharge the modules and they all measured around 14.5 after balancing, so 14.4 sounds about right if they were completely discharged. If you found any helpful documentation about the voltage please let me know and I will link it in the description.
I have 2 accord hybrids both now need reconditioning. Can individual cells be acquired? Can the battery chemistry be changed to lithium type battery ? Have you heard of someone doing this ?
I don't know about changing the batteries to lithium type. I bet if you could find someone making lithium cells it could work. Individual used cells can be found on Ebay. Check time 20:27 in the video. Keep in mind these are not new cells, but cells taken from other videos that have been tested and found to be within spec. I haven't been able to find a source for new individual cells, but that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't exist. If you find one, let us know!
I'm getting rid of mine one way or the other; it ran fine for 4 years, even with a bad battery, in a state that doesn't require emissions inspection after 15 years. But if I were reconditioning such a battery, I'd be wondering if generic NiMh D cells, which would be a lot cheaper, could be built into the 12 cell modules and used in a battery pack like this one.
@@pcno2832 I'm sure it would work if you could weld them together somehow and hook up the casing to it. Looking at Amazon its about $5 per D battery and you'd need 120 so $600 plus tax. I saw a full replacement for $1000 after core return the other day so you could save around $400 with the right skills and equipment. How many miles do you have?
@@snwdn it has 2007 has 128k miles and 133k miles on the 2005. At this point I think I plan to sell... I wonder what a working auto or autos would be worth as a private sale in Austin, Texas or national or Autotrader or such at this point ?
I am doing this and set everything correct with the same charger/discharger (t180) but during the first cycle on one of the cells the maH got up to 7500. It was only 90 minutes into the first cycle. Is this normal?
Was that 7500 charged or discharged? I don't remember mine ever getting that high, but I know there are upgraded battery packs some companies sell with more capacity. Is it an aftermarket battery? It might be possible to charge one with 7500 maH but I'm not sure.
Last night the IMA and check engine lights came on again so the fix only lasted us three weeks this time. We were able to get it inspected before then so I won't be taking the battery pack out for about two years since the car works fine anyway. We also had problems with the AC compressor and the dealership removed the AC belt which is driven off both the engine and the IMA motor. This may be related to the cause of our light since I was pretty confident that the battery pack was OK, but it is hard to say. Anyway, fair warning to get your car inspected ASAP after doing this procedure.
Great video, I'm currently doing the exact same thing. You give a lot of good insight into how to fix this.
Thank you so much for the video!
The solder itself is acting as a fuse so I think using solder is a great idea in case you get a short!
You're right, it's not good to use because if you touch any part of the solder to itself it creates a massive spark that is hot enough to melt the solder. I did it a few times, but since it was the only conductive material I had that was long enough I decided to use it and be really careful to not touch the solder to itself.
Did you need to charge the cells after the charge/discharge cycle?
Hey Roe, I left the batteries discharged until I put them into the vehicle. In the last step I use the car to charge the entire pack all at once by revving the engine to around 3000 RPM in neutral for about two minutes.
Those banks are actually supposed to be 14.4 v each
I believe the measured voltage will depend on if the module is fully charged or not. The first time I bought one on Ebay it measured around 16. Of course we do not fully discharge the modules and they all measured around 14.5 after balancing, so 14.4 sounds about right if they were completely discharged. If you found any helpful documentation about the voltage please let me know and I will link it in the description.
I have 2 accord hybrids both now need reconditioning. Can individual cells be acquired? Can the battery chemistry be changed to lithium type battery ? Have you heard of someone doing this ?
I don't know about changing the batteries to lithium type. I bet if you could find someone making lithium cells it could work. Individual used cells can be found on Ebay. Check time 20:27 in the video. Keep in mind these are not new cells, but cells taken from other videos that have been tested and found to be within spec. I haven't been able to find a source for new individual cells, but that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't exist. If you find one, let us know!
I'm getting rid of mine one way or the other; it ran fine for 4 years, even with a bad battery, in a state that doesn't require emissions inspection after 15 years. But if I were reconditioning such a battery, I'd be wondering if generic NiMh D cells, which would be a lot cheaper, could be built into the 12 cell modules and used in a battery pack like this one.
@@pcno2832 I'm sure it would work if you could weld them together somehow and hook up the casing to it. Looking at Amazon its about $5 per D battery and you'd need 120 so $600 plus tax. I saw a full replacement for $1000 after core return the other day so you could save around $400 with the right skills and equipment. How many miles do you have?
@@snwdn it has 2007 has 128k miles and 133k miles on the 2005. At this point I think I plan to sell... I wonder what a working auto or autos would be worth as a private sale in Austin, Texas or national or Autotrader or such at this point ?
@@snwdn thanks for the info... Ill let ya know if I find anything... 👍
I am doing this and set everything correct with the same charger/discharger (t180) but during the first cycle on one of the cells the maH got up to 7500. It was only 90 minutes into the first cycle. Is this normal?
Was that 7500 charged or discharged? I don't remember mine ever getting that high, but I know there are upgraded battery packs some companies sell with more capacity. Is it an aftermarket battery? It might be possible to charge one with 7500 maH but I'm not sure.
@@snwdn that was during its charge cycle.
@@danielfarmer6062 How much did it discharge? Anyway it's probably fine to move on to another cell.
@@snwdn it discharged a normal amount. So its probably fine then.
@@danielfarmer6062 I think so. Let us know your final results!