Nice work. You could use a different colour filament for a different lenght of a screw. In that case You could quickly visualy see all possibilities even if they are mixed in one box.
Your creative problem solving never ceases to amaze me! The cross grain, the tiny magnets to hold the washer. Great ideas all! I don't know what your plans are, but you'd kill it in mechanical engineering. A little statics, and strength of materials class and you're off to the races. Or you could kill in in the trades/maker space as well. You're funny w/o knowing you're funny. You're great at explaining your thinking, and you're edits are spot on. You could be the young-Diresta! :)
thats great ! one soloution i thought of the spoil board is to glue a 6mm mdf top to 12mm ply that way you have the best of both worlds strong ply t tracks and a surface you can flatten
I am late to the party here, but you can use a 50/50 mix of polyurethane and a thinner and then wipe on multiple coats to the slot area on the underside and you will greatly increase its strength and durability with minimal increase in size. Great work as always.
T-slot head bolts are available from e.g., Rockler. They're easier to use and, since the nut (knob) is now on the top, one bolt length is (usually) all you need.
@@dennisbengel11 No, the head would be down in the T-slot. It shouldn't bump anything. Look at these clamps, then pretend the nut is on the top and the bolt head is on the bottom, but too wide to just pop out of the slot. You can buy those special T-slot bolts and they're made for this purpose. Google 't slot bolt'.
One thought to help with increasing the strength of the MDF would be to have your toggle nut and MDF spoil board clamped from above with a magnetic toggle nut and fender washer. It may not provide much strength since it is on the top but could delay it some since the clamping pressure would be stabilized and also supporting the MDF from the top.
Marius, I used very similar techniques on an Excellon circuit board router about 40years ago.We would often use tooling pins to relocate parts back on the machine for further processing. We also were able to ‘step’ larger pieces to allow accurate drilling & routing on work that was larger than the capacity of the machine.
If you have problems with the MDF wearing out, you could make them stronger with some cheap aluminium flat profile. My guess is that 2-3 mm will really spread the load. You may have to recut the pieces of mdf tho...
Mega idee Da hatte jemand schon öfter Probleme mit der Befestigung wenn du so kreativ werden durftest Klasse Video wie gewohnt von dir Bist n Bomben Typ
Turn the bolt over make a 3d printed holder/knob for the nut. Use a grinder to shape the bolt head like the drop in nuts. Then use the metal t-slot as intended. You made great 3d designs.
Marius, It’s great to see you developing your skills in CNC and 3D printing, because I’m sure they will be valuable skill sets for your Engineering Career!
To reduce wear on your flat surface you can use the trick I use for mine, I just use printing paper. It's very consistent on its thickness, so I just place a few sheets under the wood so the bit eats the paper surface instead of the flat surface. If I have a very large project, I have a roll of butcher paper that I fold over a few times to make the thickness I want.
So many options on fasteners and clamps, I like variety. I'm a fan of nylon and brass bolts/hardware when the job has small parts. I have a bad habit of running the expensive end mills into the steel ones on really tight jobs. These are always the last tool in that size that I have on hand for a job that needs to be done right at that moment.
You have a wonderful problem solving ability. The company that hires you when you graduate will be lucky -- and I expect several companies have thought of that already. If you use a knob with a long internally threaded shaft to go over a bolt that links into the table, it might allow a large enough adjustment range without tool path interference with short workpieces.
Those are beautiful tools. I even like the color choices you made - the orange and yellow goes well together. Now you just need to machine the clamps out of aluminum and anodize them a similar bright color. Maybe for the surface you could glue thin plywood on top of thicker MDF. That would give you plywood at the top of the track to take the clamping pressure, but the MDF would keep it flat.
Totally going to make this for my shop! I also use nylon bolts for the hold downs in case I crash the router. That doesn't happen very often anymore, but I run a shop at a school, so it does still happen with students' tool paths. I definitely recommend nylon bolts! They save end mills
Your content is excellent Marius. Seems to me I subscribed to you when you had less than 10K subs. It is easy to see why your channel has grown so much and is so popular. Your creativity is awesome.
I hope you're planning to manufacture and sell these. These are a great idea, and I'm sure some company will snatch up your idea and start selling them.
I doubt the idea is novel enough. Sure, you could be a lawyer to make it looks like it's super clever and whatnot, but it's just a glorified ground nut
Amazing problem solving. I am always impressed. The first think I thought was to: Put in a bolt, head first, shaved on two sides and use a wing nut. Then no issues with length. Another thought... use all thread (instead of bolts) and you can tighten from both ends.
Oh, my goodness, this is fantastic! I will keep this in mind when I finally spend the money on a CNC machine. Marius, you have such a bright future in product design!
I have read about hardening MDF with alcohol-based shellac. Put it on heavy and let it soak all it will take. Since it is alcohol based, it doesn't cause the MDF to swell. Another option would be to apply thin strips of countertop laminate to the load bearing surface of the T-track.
This is a great video. The magnets on the washer is fabulous. A small but valuable time saver and convenience. The suggestion to use T-slot head bolts would be great, but one would still need varying lengths because of interference with the excess bolt protruding. What specifications would one use to search for the larger T-slot nuts?
Just a quick idea, if you get small long strips of metal or hard wood, you can glue those to the underside of the T-tracks. They can always be salvaged once you need to redo the MDF boards
You are a genius!! In my personal experience (10 years professional use of CNC) the problem with MDF is that changes a lot in thickness over time and you always have an ugly CNC. 4 months ago I bought a new CNC with hard ABS and since then I never had to plane the surface and the thickness is constant on all the 4 meters of my machine. Maybe, as your cnc is small, you might not have thickness problems.
Hi Marius. If you apply loctite to a piece of threaded bar and the nut you can use through hole star knobs then the length of adjustment is above the table. Great videos, keep it up please.
I also thought about that but I wanted to avoid that method, because then you have threaded rods sticking out that could interfere with the toolpath. Now I always only have the thickness of the knob sticking out.
This design is both simple and very effective. It just automatically works without the user having to try anything. Proper engineering. You could get the benefits of a plywood base if you just glue MDF on top without losing too much Z-travel and still get the easy machining of MDF.
the open ended clamping fingers are a great idea, i'm not sure why the steel milling clamps aren't done like that. If i ever make a set of strap clamps i'll be sure to do them this way
you could reinforce the underside of the tracks in the MDF by using thin strips of metal so the little yellow clamp will be pulling against the metal instead of the MDF.
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas. It's so refreshing to see a young man using his brain to the fullest. I know your parents are very proud! PS everytime you say sh** it makes me laugh. It's my go to word also! Thanks again!
Google “clamping set for milling machine”. 1-use studs of various lengths instead of of bolts. A threaded rod cut into small sections of various lengths is a good source of diy studs. You do not need grade 8 steel studs for clamping wood. You can buy knobs with pass-through holes. They work just like nuts but you can tighten them by hand. Or use nuts to lower the vertical projection of the clamping setup 2- there is good chance one of the standard size T-slot nuts commonly used by machinists will match your slots. They are not expensive and will last forever. Sliding those nuts in/out is not a big problem. But I in exchange for small inconvenience they offer large support area =great holding power. 3-the ramps need steps to prevent it from sliding apart under force. Look closely at the ramps used by machinists.
You could also invert the design by having the bolts anchored in their printed tee-housing facing up, and then having through nuts in the clamping handles. Longer bolts would do for all the lengths required. Though you'd have to be aware of where the bolts are sticking up to stop the router head running into them, I guess.
Excellent ideas Marius. Thanks for making the 3D print files available. What about using 15mm Baltic Birch with 6mm MDF glued to the top of the Baltic Birch, then use a surfacing bit to level the MDF top surface? This will provide a stronger hold for the hold down clamps. And you can resurface the MDF a few times as well.
I’m going to try phenolic paper (Tufnell is a brand name) for my next spoil board. Seems a good and cost effective option. I’m also much more a fan of side pressure clamps held in with a grid of screw holes, say every 4-5 cm. screw a fence into this or use dowel pins to make a repeatable zero position for jobs. Use cam clamps other side. Add traditional hold down hardware if needed as well. I think some fellow on RUclips made some nice ones... 😜
Nice work on all your videos. One thought is with the flat bridges while your 3d printing the rest of the parts. Maybe try 3d printing the bridge also. If you 80 to 100% infill with some fiber filled PLA they should be strong enough. And you could design them either slightly thicker or possibly with a gradual convex shape if more strength were required. Just another option. But like I said nice job on the project either way.
Could you not glue a sheet of plywood and MDF together to have plywood on the bottom and then MDF on the top which you could then flatten like the existing MDF on its own? Great video!
@@MariusHornberger Here are two, even better, options. One dead simple and one slightly more involved: 1) A plywood base with a high density fiberboard (HDF)/hardboard topper. HDF is thin, light and affordable, offering a low profile for sacrificial protection. For example, a 1/8"/3.175mm x 4'/1.2m x 8'/2.4m sheet of HDF is only $6.25 at Home Depot in the U.S. Of course, the HDF needs to be leveled before first use. 2) Apply high pressure laminate (HPL) to the underside of your MDF spoil board. It's even thinner than HDF, while being much stronger. While HPL is a bit more expensive, you could ask for scraps from any local cabinet shop. Since this the laminate is on the bottom of the spoil board, even mis-matched scraps would suffice. We're a fabrication shop and have loads of scrap pieces that we'd happily give away instead tossing in the skip. You simply brush/roll on a contact adhesive to both surfaces, allow to tack off and apply. A J-roller is optional for this application, but recommended to ensure maximum contact between the laminate and substrate. For option #1, the HDF topper can be refreshed several times before being completely removed from the plywood substrate in a leveling pass. Once you're down to clean plywood, you could simply glue on a new HDF topper. For option #2, you'd refresh the MDF spoil board as usual. Great ideas across the board Marius!
For the T-Slots you could add hardwood strip into your table where the T-slots need to be. It would not take a lot of hardwood and you still get the economical value of the MDF.
if you want a better material for the bed, just use thinner pieces of the MDF type but get the denser material masonite and layer these with a very tough glue, making a much stronger material, the laminating multiple layers does make them tougher due to the material being used to bond the layers, and you can alternatively use other substances in the layers too, that have fibers or something giving more strength if need be.
@@scottwoehl2069 Talent, yes, but I mean specifically the step-by-step explanation of the design-oriented thought-process. What is your favourite Matthias W video? Mine is the one where he explains his design-process-rationale of the wooden marble-machine he designed for this un-named company. .. for the same reason.
Awesome stuff Marius, great clamping system! 😃👍🏻👊🏻 ..... perhaps in addition to labeled bins for storing the bolts, if you had also printed different colored T-track nuts for the different thickness ranges they would be more quickly identifiable if for some reason you have multiple sizes out of the bins at the same time.
I would go back to closed slots cut in the clamp boards, and make enough of them to go on all of the screws. That way there are only two separate things; the stair, and the screw/knob/clamp board assembly.
If you add an extra wing nut under the current 2-spoke star and fix the work piece with them (rather than the 2-spoke stars) then you could use the longest screw for everything. You wouldn't need to worry about which length to pick.
Great job! Use HDF to replace the MDF. And you could have used different colors in 3D printing the different sizes.Then you could store them all in one place.
Awesome design! As you were doing so much manual work on the little wood pieces I was wondering why you didn't simply 3D print all of it... watched 1 min more and you came to the same conclusion ^^ Feels like I am watching myself working ;)
I always enjoy your videos, without question, BUT... you do make my brain overload as I take in what you've done, and try to fit it into what I would like to do! :o) Keep it up.
If you invert the the screw so you are turning the nut and the screw head is part of the bottom you could have one long size screw that sticks out the top of the red handle
I like your explanations on the development of the choice of forms. Everything seems obvious when we listen to you. I told myself that, to reinforce your soft wood pieces, it would also be possible to impregnate them with polyurethane resin. It would be enough to put some in the most fragiles areas. Do you know the G4 of VossChemie? It is an extremely resistant and penetrating product which has many applications.
Instead of the transverse slot into which you glued a strip of hardwood, you could have drilled a hole, and hammered a thin dowel through. I did something similar on a similarly shaped piece that I use as a lever for stretching a wire, where the wire, when stretched, has to sit in the slot. It's been in use for over a year, being pulled several times a day. I made my dowel out of a 3 mm bamboo skewer. With a space wide enough, you can even put in two dowels, to account for the neck of the parts being twisted, instead of just the two arms being spread apart. IME, watching your process, sliding in the dowel works a lot smoother than sliding in the hardwood strip.
@@MariusHornberger You obviously don't grill often enough :-D On a more serious note, 1) you can easily make dowels of any diameter by hammering sticks through a hole with sharp edges drilled in a thicker piece of iron and 2) most commercial dowels are beech; skewers, very well usable as dowels, are very often made of bamboo, and for this particular use case I think bamboo is a better wood.
A well thought out and executed design. What size t-nuts did you use? Looking on e-bay, they are sized by the size of the thread (M5, M5, M etc.) and sometimes the extrusion size (2020, 3030, 4040). I would very much appreciate it if someone (Marius?) could clarify which size I require. Thanks in anticipation ....
For the next scrap boards, you could cut out a slot to insert a piece of Aluminium or steel to distribute the load of the screw onto a larger surface of MDF.
Tolle Idee, noch bessere Umsetzung. Jetzt werfe ich noch mehr Ideen rein. Wie wäre es mit einer Vaccumplatte mit Venturi-Prinzip. Oder Klemmen, die das Werkstück nur von der Seite spannen. In der Metalltechnik bzw. Graviertechnik alltäglich. Es gibt natürlich fertige Systeme (die ihren berechtigten Preis haben), aber selbst gebaut, noch nie gesehen. Ich hätte noch viele Ideen, die so noch nie in der Holztechnik umgesetzt wurden. Mach weiter so!
Hi Marius, I am glad I can just type your name instead of pronouncing it, but then you will probably think the same for my name. Anyway now for the reason, I am typing this. 1. It seems to me that making the whole clamp on the printer would be better, and 2. "The 10-minute workshop" did a thing about the strength of MDF and although it was not quite the same, it does show that MDF has a lot more strength than was previously thought.
Couldn't you line the t-tracks with a small aluminium insert? like, make the slots a bit bigger to account for an alu insert, that way, you get (reusable) durable t-tracks inside your MDF board and you won't have to wory about the track degrading?
As usual, great video. Would a varnish that soaks into the MDF make it stronger. Same as the bandsaw wheels. I know that was a different type of load, but it should still help without needing to re-cut or get another material type.
Good video man! Two questions: with the clamp thingys, why dont you make the red part a nut and the yellow one a bolt? That way you don't need different heights, right? Am i missing something? On the other hand, why don't you make a vacuum table?
Nice work. You could use a different colour filament for a different lenght of a screw. In that case You could quickly visualy see all possibilities even if they are mixed in one box.
Marius: You have an amazing creative mind. Thanks for sharing your ideas!
yea the play school colours are great from seeing in a box of parts or even on a messy bench
I was thinking the same thing. Red for shortest purple for longest [in ROYGBIV order] for the handles and bases or even just the handles.
Your creative problem solving never ceases to amaze me! The cross grain, the tiny magnets to hold the washer. Great ideas all! I don't know what your plans are, but you'd kill it in mechanical engineering. A little statics, and strength of materials class and you're off to the races. Or you could kill in in the trades/maker space as well. You're funny w/o knowing you're funny. You're great at explaining your thinking, and you're edits are spot on. You could be the young-Diresta! :)
I think Marius said in some of his videos that he was a mechanical engineering student. Probably got his degree by now.
@@con-f-use I remember an episode where he said there was a lot of schoolwork. But I couldn't recall in what. Thanks.
@@con-f-use yea I remember that too
thats great ! one soloution i thought of the spoil board is to glue a 6mm mdf top to 12mm ply that way you have the best of both worlds strong ply t tracks and a surface you can flatten
So glad you are back to uploading regularly for a while. Love your videos and appreciate all the hard work you put in!
Marius is one of very few people on RUclips who actually makes 3D printed objects that are useful. Very clever and useful
I am late to the party here, but you can use a 50/50 mix of polyurethane and a thinner and then wipe on multiple coats to the slot area on the underside and you will greatly increase its strength and durability with minimal increase in size. Great work as always.
🔥
Nothing else to say. Mr. Hornberger, yet again, expanding the old game, by bringing in the new game, to make a better game for all. Bravo.
T-slot head bolts are available from e.g., Rockler. They're easier to use and, since the nut (knob) is now on the top, one bolt length is (usually) all you need.
Wouldn't you have the head bumping into the part that's sticking out with diffrent workpiece heights?
@@dennisbengel11 No, the head would be down in the T-slot. It shouldn't bump anything. Look at these clamps, then pretend the nut is on the top and the bolt head is on the bottom, but too wide to just pop out of the slot. You can buy those special T-slot bolts and they're made for this purpose. Google 't slot bolt'.
I took carriage bolts, ground the sides of the head, and it slides in and out easy and the knob is on top
This clamping setup is definitely a well thought out solution that should cover a broad range of needs. Well done!
One thought to help with increasing the strength of the MDF would be to have your toggle nut and MDF spoil board clamped from above with a magnetic toggle nut and fender washer. It may not provide much strength since it is on the top but could delay it some since the clamping pressure would be stabilized and also supporting the MDF from the top.
Marius, I used very similar techniques on an Excellon circuit board router about 40years ago.We would often use tooling pins to relocate parts back on the machine for further processing. We also were able to ‘step’ larger pieces to allow accurate drilling & routing on work that was larger than the capacity of the machine.
your Engineering Education (along with your natural talents) is really shining through.... Congratulations!
If anyone can make a Corona-Cure it's Marius! We believe in you Marius! There is no problem complex enough if you put your mind on it!
If you have problems with the MDF wearing out, you could make them stronger with some cheap aluminium flat profile. My guess is that 2-3 mm will really spread the load. You may have to recut the pieces of mdf tho...
use plastic
I would try stabilizing the MDF with epoxy. Since the wearing zones are just the borders of the tracks, a very fluid epoxy could soak into de MDF.
Mega idee
Da hatte jemand schon öfter Probleme mit der Befestigung wenn du so kreativ werden durftest
Klasse Video wie gewohnt von dir
Bist n Bomben Typ
gotta say.. at 10:17, when you tilted the ramp up, I got emotional. What a great idea that you came up with! so many nice improvements!
This is the true power of home 3D printing. Nice work Marius.
Turn the bolt over make a 3d printed holder/knob for the nut. Use a grinder to shape the bolt head like the drop in nuts. Then use the metal t-slot as intended. You made great 3d designs.
Marius, It’s great to see you developing your skills in CNC and 3D printing, because I’m sure they will be valuable skill sets for your Engineering Career!
To reduce wear on your flat surface you can use the trick I use for mine, I just use printing paper. It's very consistent on its thickness, so I just place a few sheets under the wood so the bit eats the paper surface instead of the flat surface. If I have a very large project, I have a roll of butcher paper that I fold over a few times to make the thickness I want.
So many options on fasteners and clamps, I like variety. I'm a fan of nylon and brass bolts/hardware when the job has small parts. I have a bad habit of running the expensive end mills into the steel ones on really tight jobs. These are always the last tool in that size that I have on hand for a job that needs to be done right at that moment.
I so enjoy watching you, you and my son are alike. You both have a mind that will take you far. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Love the ideas. I'm so happy to see your current videos back online.
Great engineering and top notch results as always! And such a nice young man too. Your folks must be so proud.
You have a wonderful problem solving ability. The company that hires you when you graduate will be lucky -- and I expect several companies have thought of that already.
If you use a knob with a long internally threaded shaft to go over a bolt that links into the table, it might allow a large enough adjustment range without tool path interference with short workpieces.
This deserves a patent. Smart solutions.
Fantastic stuff! I do enjoy your methodical approach and your ability to find solutions! Also I would use color to easily identify the length.
This 3D idea it's amazing man congratulations nice work
Those are beautiful tools. I even like the color choices you made - the orange and yellow goes well together.
Now you just need to machine the clamps out of aluminum and anodize them a similar bright color.
Maybe for the surface you could glue thin plywood on top of thicker MDF. That would give you plywood at the top of the track to take the clamping pressure, but the MDF would keep it flat.
Like the quality of your prints. You are a talented designer.
Simply brilliant. Don't let the tool companies Rob you of your idea.
Dude. That's awesome. You're smart af
I'd buy those for sure.
I think those are the best clamps ive ever seen.
Totally going to make this for my shop! I also use nylon bolts for the hold downs in case I crash the router. That doesn't happen very often anymore, but I run a shop at a school, so it does still happen with students' tool paths. I definitely recommend nylon bolts! They save end mills
That's a great idea!
Your magnet idea and demo is fantastic!
Your 'open end' idea is so efficient!
Your 'end grain' reinforcement is amazing. :)
The flexible heights is brilliant!
German ingenuity at its best, well done marius, good job ty
Your content is excellent Marius. Seems to me I subscribed to you when you had less than 10K subs. It is easy to see why your channel has grown so much and is so popular. Your creativity is awesome.
I hope you're planning to manufacture and sell these. These are a great idea, and I'm sure some company will snatch up your idea and start selling them.
Even just an Etsy or Shopify. Patent would probably be a waste, if you could just beat the competition to most of the demand.
I doubt the idea is novel enough.
Sure, you could be a lawyer to make it looks like it's super clever and whatnot, but it's just a glorified ground nut
Great video. It’s nice to see someone who has the tools has the ability to use them as well as you do. Thanks for sharing.
Amazing problem solving. I am always impressed.
The first think I thought was to: Put in a bolt, head first, shaved on two sides and use a wing nut. Then no issues with length. Another thought... use all thread (instead of bolts) and you can tighten from both ends.
Was my first thought too, but that very likely interferes with the tool path
I always appreciate your content! You're skills at solving problems are impressive!
Oh, my goodness, this is fantastic! I will keep this in mind when I finally spend the money on a CNC machine. Marius, you have such a bright future in product design!
Future? You mean now....
The technical term for the "spokes" is "knubbel". Awwesone Job.
Twisted minds think alike!
I wanted to make a few this weekend anyway for my new X-Y table.
I have read about hardening MDF with alcohol-based shellac. Put it on heavy and let it soak all it will take. Since it is alcohol based, it doesn't cause the MDF to swell. Another option would be to apply thin strips of countertop laminate to the load bearing surface of the T-track.
For the different screw lengths you could use different filament colors. That way you can know by sight which ones you need.
Great video.
This is a great video. The magnets on the washer is fabulous. A small but valuable time saver and convenience. The suggestion to use T-slot head bolts would be great, but one would still need varying lengths because of interference with the excess bolt protruding. What specifications would one use to search for the larger T-slot nuts?
Just a quick idea, if you get small long strips of metal or hard wood, you can glue those to the underside of the T-tracks. They can always be salvaged once you need to redo the MDF boards
You are a genius!! In my personal experience (10 years professional use of CNC) the problem with MDF is that changes a lot in thickness over time and you always have an ugly CNC. 4 months ago I bought a new CNC with hard ABS and since then I never had to plane the surface and the thickness is constant on all the 4 meters of my machine. Maybe, as your cnc is small, you might not have thickness problems.
Hi Marius. If you apply loctite to a piece of threaded bar and the nut you can use through hole star knobs then the length of adjustment is above the table. Great videos, keep it up please.
I also thought about that but I wanted to avoid that method, because then you have threaded rods sticking out that could interfere with the toolpath. Now I always only have the thickness of the knob sticking out.
This design is both simple and very effective. It just automatically works without the user having to try anything. Proper engineering.
You could get the benefits of a plywood base if you just glue MDF on top without losing too much Z-travel and still get the easy machining of MDF.
Awesome stuff! A link to the correct T-nuts would be great
Wow. Awesome work Marius!
the open ended clamping fingers are a great idea, i'm not sure why the steel milling clamps aren't done like that. If i ever make a set of strap clamps i'll be sure to do them this way
Your work holding strategies are incredible!
I love watching your videos. Great job!
A neighbour from France.
you could reinforce the underside of the tracks in the MDF by using thin strips of metal so the little yellow clamp will be pulling against the metal instead of the MDF.
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas. It's so refreshing to see a young man using his brain to the fullest. I know your parents are very proud! PS everytime you say sh** it makes me laugh. It's my go to word also! Thanks again!
Google “clamping set for milling machine”.
1-use studs of various lengths instead of of bolts. A threaded rod cut into small sections of various lengths is a good source of diy studs. You do not need grade 8 steel studs for clamping wood. You can buy knobs with pass-through holes. They work just like nuts but you can tighten them by hand. Or use nuts to lower the vertical projection of the clamping setup
2- there is good chance one of the standard size T-slot nuts commonly used by machinists will match your slots. They are not expensive and will last forever. Sliding those nuts in/out is not a big problem. But I in exchange for small inconvenience they offer large support area =great holding power.
3-the ramps need steps to prevent it from sliding apart under force. Look closely at the ramps used by machinists.
I love your use of 3D printing to problem solve
Absolutely fantastic mechanical mind. You Sir, are an Inspiration, a master of the magnificent! Good on you....!
You’re a smart cookie. Good ideas and good video.
You could also invert the design by having the bolts anchored in their printed tee-housing facing up, and then having through nuts in the clamping handles. Longer bolts would do for all the lengths required. Though you'd have to be aware of where the bolts are sticking up to stop the router head running into them, I guess.
You just said the reason why I didn't went that way
Regarding MDF failing, perhaps the cheap IKEA HDPE chopping boards? You could try it for just a section of the table?
Very creative ideas and well executed. Good video. Thank you. Cheers, David
Excellent ideas Marius. Thanks for making the 3D print files available. What about using 15mm Baltic Birch with 6mm MDF glued to the top of the Baltic Birch, then use a surfacing bit to level the MDF top surface? This will provide a stronger hold for the hold down clamps. And you can resurface the MDF a few times as well.
I’m going to try phenolic paper (Tufnell is a brand name) for my next spoil board. Seems a good and cost effective option.
I’m also much more a fan of side pressure clamps held in with a grid of screw holes, say every 4-5 cm. screw a fence into this or use dowel pins to make a repeatable zero position for jobs. Use cam clamps other side. Add traditional hold down hardware if needed as well. I think some fellow on RUclips made some nice ones... 😜
wow! This idea is really cool! Thanks for teaching me.
Nice work on all your videos. One thought is with the flat bridges while your 3d printing the rest of the parts. Maybe try 3d printing the bridge also. If you 80 to 100% infill with some fiber filled PLA they should be strong enough. And you could design them either slightly thicker or possibly with a gradual convex shape if more strength were required. Just another option. But like I said nice job on the project either way.
Could you not glue a sheet of plywood and MDF together to have plywood on the bottom and then MDF on the top which you could then flatten like the existing MDF on its own? Great video!
That's a good idea!
@@MariusHornberger Here are two, even better, options. One dead simple and one slightly more involved:
1) A plywood base with a high density fiberboard (HDF)/hardboard topper. HDF is thin, light and affordable, offering a low profile for sacrificial protection. For example, a 1/8"/3.175mm x 4'/1.2m x 8'/2.4m sheet of HDF is only $6.25 at Home Depot in the U.S. Of course, the HDF needs to be leveled before first use.
2) Apply high pressure laminate (HPL) to the underside of your MDF spoil board. It's even thinner than HDF, while being much stronger. While HPL is a bit more expensive, you could ask for scraps from any local cabinet shop. Since this the laminate is on the bottom of the spoil board, even mis-matched scraps would suffice. We're a fabrication shop and have loads of scrap pieces that we'd happily give away instead tossing in the skip.
You simply brush/roll on a contact adhesive to both surfaces, allow to tack off and apply. A J-roller is optional for this application, but recommended to ensure maximum contact between the laminate and substrate.
For option #1, the HDF topper can be refreshed several times before being completely removed from the plywood substrate in a leveling pass. Once you're down to clean plywood, you could simply glue on a new HDF topper.
For option #2, you'd refresh the MDF spoil board as usual.
Great ideas across the board Marius!
For the T-Slots you could add hardwood strip into your table where the T-slots need to be. It would not take a lot of hardwood and you still get the economical value of the MDF.
if you want a better material for the bed, just use thinner pieces of the MDF type but get the denser material masonite and layer these with a very tough glue, making a much stronger material, the laminating multiple layers does make them tougher due to the material being used to bond the layers, and you can alternatively use other substances in the layers too, that have fibers or something giving more strength if need be.
I loved the idea of a cross grain reinforcement, definitely keeping that in my brain! :)
Quick question, though... why not do it in aluminum?
Hi. Use a layer of a soft PVC sheet from 12 -19 mm. Is also cheap as MDF.
I can imagine someone like Matthias W being impressed by *this* video :) Nice!!
I think the gifted Pantorouter indicates Matthias' awareness and appreciation of the talent.
@@scottwoehl2069 Talent, yes, but I mean specifically the step-by-step explanation of the design-oriented thought-process. What is your favourite Matthias W video? Mine is the one where he explains his design-process-rationale of the wooden marble-machine he designed for this un-named company. .. for the same reason.
Awesome stuff Marius, great clamping system! 😃👍🏻👊🏻 ..... perhaps in addition to labeled bins for storing the bolts, if you had also printed different colored T-track nuts for the different thickness ranges they would be more quickly identifiable if for some reason you have multiple sizes out of the bins at the same time.
I would go back to closed slots cut in the clamp boards, and make enough of them to go on all of the screws. That way there are only two separate things; the stair, and the screw/knob/clamp board assembly.
Nice to have more content from you again, great solutions!
If you add an extra wing nut under the current 2-spoke star and fix the work piece with them (rather than the 2-spoke stars) then you could use the longest screw for everything. You wouldn't need to worry about which length to pick.
Great job! Use HDF to replace the MDF. And you could have used different colors in 3D printing the different sizes.Then you could store them all in one place.
Brilliant work sir. Very very helpful...
Awesome design!
As you were doing so much manual work on the little wood pieces I was wondering why you didn't simply 3D print all of it... watched 1 min more and you came to the same conclusion ^^ Feels like I am watching myself working ;)
I always enjoy your videos, without question, BUT... you do make my brain overload as I take in what you've done, and try to fit it into what I would like to do! :o) Keep it up.
You're a really generous, excellent maker-dude!
If you invert the the screw so you are turning the nut and the screw head is part of the bottom you could have one long size screw that sticks out the top of the red handle
That's what I wanted to avoid, because a long bolt sticking out can interfere with the tool path
You need to patent all of that!! Brilliant!! 👍👍
Love your videos Marius! Thank you. You deserve good fortune! Do you have the info on supplying the larger drop in tee-nuts. I have not seen them.
Hey Marius nice video.. You can try making a spoilboard out of plywood with a 5mm sheet of mdf glued on top of it.
I like your explanations on the development of the choice of forms. Everything seems obvious when we listen to you.
I told myself that, to reinforce your soft wood pieces, it would also be possible to impregnate them with polyurethane resin. It would be enough to put some in the most fragiles areas. Do you know the G4 of VossChemie? It is an extremely resistant and penetrating product which has many applications.
Instead of the transverse slot into which you glued a strip of hardwood, you could have drilled a hole, and hammered a thin dowel through. I did something similar on a similarly shaped piece that I use as a lever for stretching a wire, where the wire, when stretched, has to sit in the slot. It's been in use for over a year, being pulled several times a day. I made my dowel out of a 3 mm bamboo skewer. With a space wide enough, you can even put in two dowels, to account for the neck of the parts being twisted, instead of just the two arms being spread apart. IME, watching your process, sliding in the dowel works a lot smoother than sliding in the hardwood strip.
A dowel was my first idea too, but the thinnest one I had was too thick
@@MariusHornberger You obviously don't grill often enough :-D
On a more serious note, 1) you can easily make dowels of any diameter by hammering sticks through a hole with sharp edges drilled in a thicker piece of iron and 2) most commercial dowels are beech; skewers, very well usable as dowels, are very often made of bamboo, and for this particular use case I think bamboo is a better wood.
A well thought out and executed design. What size t-nuts did you use? Looking on e-bay, they are sized by the size of the thread (M5, M5, M etc.) and sometimes the extrusion size (2020, 3030, 4040). I would very much appreciate it if someone (Marius?) could clarify which size I require. Thanks in anticipation ....
They're called EU30 M6x16,5x8 and EU40 M6x19,5x8, but that's for the European standard
@@MariusHornberger Thank you.
I can find nuts to those standards available from China on e-bay -- but which of the two you mention do I want to fit in the 3d printed parts?
great stuff Marius! thanks for sharing all these awesome ideas.
So neat and beautiful at the same time! Great job!
For the next scrap boards, you could cut out a slot to insert a piece of Aluminium or steel to distribute the load of the screw onto a larger surface of MDF.
Any recommendations on the best filament to use for shop printed parts?
Well thought out Marius, a pleasure to watch
Tolle Idee, noch bessere Umsetzung. Jetzt werfe ich noch mehr Ideen rein. Wie wäre es mit einer Vaccumplatte mit Venturi-Prinzip. Oder Klemmen, die das Werkstück nur von der Seite spannen. In der Metalltechnik bzw. Graviertechnik alltäglich. Es gibt natürlich fertige Systeme (die ihren berechtigten Preis haben), aber selbst gebaut, noch nie gesehen. Ich hätte noch viele Ideen, die so noch nie in der Holztechnik umgesetzt wurden. Mach weiter so!
Ich hab auch schon zwei Videos über exzenter Spannelemente für Holz gemacht. Ist schon ein bisschen her
Hi Marius, I am glad I can just type your name instead of pronouncing it, but then you will probably think the same for my name. Anyway now for the reason, I am typing this. 1. It seems to me that making the whole clamp on the printer would be better, and 2. "The 10-minute workshop" did a thing about the strength of MDF and although it was not quite the same, it does show that MDF has a lot more strength than was previously thought.
I wanted to make the clamp out of wood, becasue wood is much stronger than a 3D print in this application
Couldn't you line the t-tracks with a small aluminium insert? like, make the slots a bit bigger to account for an alu insert, that way, you get (reusable) durable t-tracks inside your MDF board and you won't have to wory about the track degrading?
As usual, great video.
Would a varnish that soaks into the MDF make it stronger. Same as the bandsaw wheels. I know that was a different type of load, but it should still help without needing to re-cut or get another material type.
Good video man! Two questions: with the clamp thingys, why dont you make the red part a nut and the yellow one a bolt? That way you don't need different heights, right? Am i missing something?
On the other hand, why don't you make a vacuum table?
Long bolts sticking out can interfere with the toolpath.