I love how you show the work - when doing the fender trimming! This is why people like your work - you show details and give basic directions of how and why!
Trimmed my XJ fenders the same way but without the pie cut, I just made one cut up in. So after folding some of those edges of those pieces over lapped, they didn't lay completely flat. Then the tire had something to grab when at compression. Colt thanks for showing everyone the correct way of doing that.
I still do not understand why Colts channel is not growing faster, so much better content then others that are growing. Colt, I think you are going to want more then 2 clamps on top of front springs, as they twist there is a chance to pop out to side and bend up, 4 would be better. 😊😊😊
I love your old school approach in your shows and even walking your viewers through what I consider obvious. But I have been old school since they had 1 room schools! LOL. Its just nice seeing what one can do without throwing a lot of cash at it. Like the S 10 build. Knowledge is priceless.
Your Fabrication videos are superior because of the thoughtful explanations and techniques, beat out various builds from Rats, Matt, Trailmater, Lt Tolman, Bleeping, Mischief and Tom who's new channel is a close second. Your detail and tricks like adding grease to a cutoff wheel are pure gold. I respect, you self-effacing humor, making light of mistakes which we all share from time to time, while adding the B roll keeps your content real. You scored big-time marrying your wife, who changes a 33" inch tire and helps film. However, your date night at the junkyard is absolutely priceless and wonderful friendship and marriage shines through - wonderful content. Stay Awesome, thanks for the detailed Land Rover video series.(edit typo)
Really enjoy your builds and show. The way you explain things and walk through it as you do. It's just simple, you speak plainly and not like you're overly trying to teach or give a superior pretense to your abilities. Which is refreshing, compared to other folks doing builds. But, your knowledge shows and your experience. Plus, your work is always quality when it's done. Just enjoy watching. Plus it is obvious that you enjoy it. Keep up the great programs. 😎👍
@coltbuildsit You do a great job of it. It makes sense and entertaining as well. Really enjoy your channel. Takes me back in time to when I had shop class in school. Kids these days don't have that luxury, sadly.
Another thing you can use on your cutoff wheel for aluminum is a bar of soap 🧼 if you don't have any grease...I've done it for around 30yrs & it's cheap + it works pretty well...🤠👍 I pray you all have a wonderful & blessed rest of your weekend as well as week too come...👋🤠
Colt you are the only one that explains what and why you are doing what you do anymore. Thank you! We prefer your videos over Matts Offroad, Rudy's, Bleepie, and Trail Mater now because all of them have stopped giving detail on what they do!
Hi Colt, Same as yours, my D1 liked to "mark its spot" with power steering fluid (the spec is Dexron/Mercon ATF fluid, BTW, which is often red). I got tired of the mess, which also will cause early failure of the ball joint right below the steering box by keeping it soaked in oil. I bought a used steering box intending to rebuild it (complete seal kits are about $40). However, I also bought new hoses and decided to install those first. Eureka! Most of the leakage stopped! But there is still a little... enough that I need to top up the fluid once a month or so. It's nowhere near as bad as with the old hoses... So don't be surprised if you still see a little leakage from the steering box itself. I think they all leak! The battery hold down you rigged up is very similar to what was there originally. Someone must have failed to reinstall it on yours, sometime in the past. Regarding the front end ride height... you might try swapping the front springs. The originals and some aftermarket springs are "handed"... different length or rate right and left on the front. I don't exactly know why that was done... maybe there is a difference in weight right and left. I upgraded to OME heavy duty coil springs with 1 or 2" lift years ago, got the fronts wrong at forst, and saw one side sitting about an inch lower than the other. Swapped them and now it sits evenly. (Note: the rear coils are the same length & rate both sides, not handed like the fronts). Also, there are coil locator cones available to keep them in place when doing extreme articulation. I know Atlantic British sells them, but shop around. Easier than doing some sort of homemade clamp, plus they beef up the coil mount points. BTW I think Terrafirma sells longer shocks for raised Discos, too (might eliminate need for the spacer you were dealing with). Pr, there are shortened front shock turrets and lowered top rear shock mounts, that can be used to add 2" of lift, instead of spacers under the springs.There are also longer stronger stainless braided brake hoses available, if needed. Again, Atlantic British has em at roverparts.com, but shop around because they tend to be the most expensive parts source.
I recall there being a plate, similar to one you fabricated, as standard on the coil sprung Land Rovers. The dampers (springs absorb the shock, dampers control the spring oscillations), are the primary means to limit the axle droop; without the dampers, it is the bushing that tries to limit drop - something they're not designed for and poor at. I'm at 30 minutes in the video, so you may cover this. Installing a front damper is quite quick: fit it to the tower, lower it through chassis bracket, fit/tighten four nuts holding the tower, fit/tighten nut on damper at the lower spring mount. I wish here in the UK, we could buy a "Disco" with so little rust - even when they were one year old they'd be rustier! Thank you Colt for real world build skills. Additional comment: 32 minutes - a good idea, but intuitively those 'U' brackets at the top of the spring aren't strong enough. They will need to support the dynamic forces of the entire sprung weight (axle, wheels) dropping when the wheels aren't in contact with the ground. Better to have a strap or 'dislocations cones' to guide the spring back into place when the axle comes back up from full droop.
Around 14:50 I got a laugh when Colt was saying he didn't have any other grease while standing in front of three grease guns. Dude needs a trip to the store.
Hi Colt, you're doing a great job turning that jalopy into something that it wasn't. I'm excited to see the progression of your build and be able to watch it all come together!
Some slick tricks, learn something new almost every video, been playing with cars and trucks for 60 yrs and still learning new or at least easier ways to do stuff, thks Colt
Wax on the wheel works also. A loaded up grinding or cutting wheel can explode/fragment while spinning. Best to not let that happen. Since we are on a safety kick nice to see wife wearing better/safer footwear in the shop.
I used to run a wristed radius arm on my Disco 1. Basically a pin you pulled that let the driver's side flex sort of the same as if you pulled out one of the mounting bolts. It works on trail, but it absolutely EATS bushings at the chassis. As in I would have to change them after every trail run. Got to the point I could swap the out while airing up for the drive home. (with the 2-piece arm it was pretty easy to drop it out) With less lift you shouldn't eat them as fast but I'm sure it will burn through them pretty quick anyway. I ended up going away from it (still have the arms in the shop) and going to a custom longer arm with raised johnny jointed chassis mounts, but you can tell they are still limiting my front end flex. Oh, and you don't want to forget to put that pin back in before jumping on the highway headed home....That's some white-knuckle stuff there!
I watch all the time, and man did it pay off today. I gotta trim my fenders on my 00 Dakota to fit 285s and wasn't entirely sure how to go about it. That was almost a how-to! You're the best
Awesome videos!! New to the channel. Hope to meet you at the off road games. My wife and I will be there for our honeymoon. Will you have a booth set up?
I like the S-10 (15) ride Brings back memories My boss owns 2 of these, Both in the shop. Mo e money than brains. Speaking of.... How's it going cold beer Colt 🍻🗽🇺🇸🍁
The no shock thing is still an interesting rule.. can you use spring assist spacers? To take some of the bounce? Trying to get the odds in your favor 😂
Really enjoying watching this from the guernsey in the uk Built a few disco 1 landrovers for myself if I wasn’t so far away I’d help out 😄 you might want to look at putting some straps to the rear axel so the spring doesn’t drop lower than the dislocation cone speaking from experience it’s really annoying when the spring flops around and misses the cone and dosent relocate its self 😅.
Also in Jimny's (the coil sprung Samurai you didn't get) the same 1 bolt removal trick is used for more flex. Usually in trails comps - its like rock crawling courses you do, but often grass, mud/trees, but could be an old quarry and be rocks. My main issue is just destroying the bushes themselves in general use. Fit new ones, flex is reduced, they bed in you have perfect flex, then they fail/rip apart and start the process again. Poly ones have even worse flex, don't really have the sweet spot then just rip. I wish I could weld/fab. Should have stayed 2" lift and 29s rather than 4" lift and 31s for the bushes to survive better with less articulation.
Hey double check the steering fluid type. My Range Rovers ('91,'93) take ATF. The wrong fluid causes hell to the pump/gear seals. Trust me. Loving this build!
Batteries are usually filled with Dilute Sulphuric Acid "Electrolyte" , we add Distilled water to top up, The Electrolyte as the water content evaporates from the Electrolytic solution, if you lose Electrolyte through spilliege then you would refill with usually in the UK 12/70 Sulphuric Acid.
I discovered Optama batteries 🔋 in the early 90's, in my car audio phase. Quick recover, and mount any position !!!!! Great batteries 🔋 but CHA-CHING you PAY for them as well. At the time I ran the RED top. Plus they don't put off fu especially when charging like a Lead-Acid
most European cars since the 80s use batteries that have a flange along the long sides of the bottom, and the battery tray has a clamp that holds this flange down. Typical battery size is H8 aka Group 49, but there are also H5 (group 47), H6 (group 48), H9 (group 95R) and a few others.. And the H series batteries are, I believe, all AGM, so they won't leak upside down.
Have you looked at the DH series Optima, it has the starting power of the Red Top and the deep cell of the Yellow Top. I have one in my summer car and it works great. Thanks for the tip to cut aluminum...👍
Im 64 and have worked on anything that runs on gas or diesel since i was 8 .. But always put on the NEW PARTS if ya got um lying around staring at ya,,,,, and keep the good used for when something breaks or dont go as it should... Colt knows alot of tricks,, takes years to know this 💩/STUFF.....
Any AGM battery will not leak. AGM means Absorbed Glass Mat. Most AGMs are conventional flat plates with fiber glass mat in between that is soaked with battery acid. An Optima battery is a variation on AGM, because the plate is a continuous roll of lead plate rolled up with the glass mat in-between the the plate, similear to a swiss roll cake. AGM batteries do not leak.
Colt, just an FYI. As good as your videos are I think some more lighting for the under vehicle stuff would go a long way towards us being able to see what your doing. Just a suggestion...
The shocks would stay in the tower you then just unbolt the 4 tower bolts and one at the bottom of the shock and pull the whole thing out through the top , and the rears are super easy to remove without touching the coils at all. Love the great videos 👍
If you are looking for a bead buster, here's the link: amzn.to/3yLlQ4t
The Tonya Harding massage was funny as hell LOL keep up the great content.
Derek from visegrip garage says that all the time
😂
When Colt wins this comp there will be no questions how or why…lot of effort went into making this snob wagon a wheeler!
I love how you show the work - when doing the fender trimming! This is why people like your work - you show details and give basic directions of how and why!
Great tips and tricks Colt. Thanks for the advise, information and humor. Your wife is always a welcome addition to your videos!
Trimmed my XJ fenders the same way but without the pie cut, I just made one cut up in. So after folding some of those edges of those pieces over lapped, they didn't lay completely flat. Then the tire had something to grab when at compression. Colt thanks for showing everyone the correct way of doing that.
"The Tonya Harding 1,000"
Omg Professor, I will never forget that.
I still do not understand why Colts channel is not growing faster, so much better content then others that are growing. Colt, I think you are going to want more then 2 clamps on top of front springs, as they twist there is a chance to pop out to side and bend up, 4 would be better. 😊😊😊
Most intelligent explanation Yet.
You deserve the title...Professor.
Love your videos.
Appreciate how you give an explanation how and why you’re doing what you’re doing. Thanks. Happy trails.
A company needs to sponsor Colt with a tire machine, lol.
Colt makes changing tires look easy but I am more impressed with Shannon’s ability. Good job both of you. Thanks
I love your old school approach in your shows and even walking your viewers through what I consider obvious. But I have been old school since they had 1 room schools! LOL. Its just nice seeing what one can do without throwing a lot of cash at it. Like the S 10 build. Knowledge is priceless.
somebody get this guy a tire machine sponsor
Your Fabrication videos are superior because of the thoughtful explanations and techniques, beat out various builds from Rats, Matt, Trailmater, Lt Tolman, Bleeping, Mischief and Tom who's new channel is a close second. Your detail and tricks like adding grease to a cutoff wheel are pure gold. I respect, you self-effacing humor, making light of mistakes which we all share from time to time, while adding the B roll keeps your content real. You scored big-time marrying your wife, who changes a 33" inch tire and helps film. However, your date night at the junkyard is absolutely priceless and wonderful friendship and marriage shines through - wonderful content. Stay Awesome, thanks for the detailed Land Rover video series.(edit typo)
you've gotta call that rig....James Bond'O !
Tanya Harding 😮 Nice Hammer...🤣😂❤
Really enjoy your builds and show. The way you explain things and walk through it as you do. It's just simple, you speak plainly and not like you're overly trying to teach or give a superior pretense to your abilities. Which is refreshing, compared to other folks doing builds. But, your knowledge shows and your experience.
Plus, your work is always quality when it's done.
Just enjoy watching. Plus it is obvious that you enjoy it. Keep up the great programs.
😎👍
Thanks for watching! I try to explain things in a way that makes sense.
@coltbuildsit You do a great job of it. It makes sense and entertaining as well. Really enjoy your channel. Takes me back in time to when I had shop class in school. Kids these days don't have that luxury, sadly.
Another thing you can use on your cutoff wheel for aluminum is a bar of soap 🧼 if you don't have any grease...I've done it for around 30yrs & it's cheap + it works pretty well...🤠👍
I pray you all have a wonderful & blessed rest of your weekend as well as week too come...👋🤠
A wealth of info and thought. Thanks, Colt.
Colt you are the only one that explains what and why you are doing what you do anymore. Thank you! We prefer your videos over Matts Offroad, Rudy's, Bleepie, and Trail Mater now because all of them have stopped giving detail on what they do!
Cool. I love you explaining things. Really appreciate it 😊
Professor You Are amazing
Who ever invented the step bit should have received the Nobel Peace Prize. Just because it made drilling out the front shock mount on that thing easy.
Colt. You're a lucky man to be able to use your wife to help you build a car. AND she seems capable too.
Hi Colt,
Same as yours, my D1 liked to "mark its spot" with power steering fluid (the spec is Dexron/Mercon ATF fluid, BTW, which is often red). I got tired of the mess, which also will cause early failure of the ball joint right below the steering box by keeping it soaked in oil.
I bought a used steering box intending to rebuild it (complete seal kits are about $40). However, I also bought new hoses and decided to install those first. Eureka! Most of the leakage stopped! But there is still a little... enough that I need to top up the fluid once a month or so. It's nowhere near as bad as with the old hoses... So don't be surprised if you still see a little leakage from the steering box itself. I think they all leak!
The battery hold down you rigged up is very similar to what was there originally. Someone must have failed to reinstall it on yours, sometime in the past.
Regarding the front end ride height... you might try swapping the front springs. The originals and some aftermarket springs are "handed"... different length or rate right and left on the front. I don't exactly know why that was done... maybe there is a difference in weight right and left. I upgraded to OME heavy duty coil springs with 1 or 2" lift years ago, got the fronts wrong at forst, and saw one side sitting about an inch lower than the other. Swapped them and now it sits evenly. (Note: the rear coils are the same length & rate both sides, not handed like the fronts).
Also, there are coil locator cones available to keep them in place when doing extreme articulation. I know Atlantic British sells them, but shop around. Easier than doing some sort of homemade clamp, plus they beef up the coil mount points.
BTW I think Terrafirma sells longer shocks for raised Discos, too (might eliminate need for the spacer you were dealing with). Pr, there are shortened front shock turrets and lowered top rear shock mounts, that can be used to add 2" of lift, instead of spacers under the springs.There are also longer stronger stainless braided brake hoses available, if needed. Again, Atlantic British has em at roverparts.com, but shop around because they tend to be the most expensive parts source.
Colt, brother, you are the truth!
Ok thanks for the tip on grease and cutting aluminum. I’ve struggled plenty on this. Thanks Colt , Ive learned some awesome tricks from you.
I recall there being a plate, similar to one you fabricated, as standard on the coil sprung Land Rovers. The dampers (springs absorb the shock, dampers control the spring oscillations), are the primary means to limit the axle droop; without the dampers, it is the bushing that tries to limit drop - something they're not designed for and poor at.
I'm at 30 minutes in the video, so you may cover this. Installing a front damper is quite quick: fit it to the tower, lower it through chassis bracket, fit/tighten four nuts holding the tower, fit/tighten nut on damper at the lower spring mount.
I wish here in the UK, we could buy a "Disco" with so little rust - even when they were one year old they'd be rustier!
Thank you Colt for real world build skills.
Additional comment: 32 minutes - a good idea, but intuitively those 'U' brackets at the top of the spring aren't strong enough. They will need to support the dynamic forces of the entire sprung weight (axle, wheels) dropping when the wheels aren't in contact with the ground. Better to have a strap or 'dislocations cones' to guide the spring back into place when the axle comes back up from full droop.
Just love the detail you give when doing the work! Most other guys just turn on laps record and play music. Great job !
I like it when your wife is on doing stuff, you two seem to be a nice couple
Thank you Colt for the update on how things are going there !
Around 14:50 I got a laugh when Colt was saying he didn't have any other grease while standing in front of three grease guns. Dude needs a trip to the store.
Hi Colt, you're doing a great job turning that jalopy into something that it wasn't. I'm excited to see the progression of your build and be able to watch it all come together!
Genius Colt. I know alot of things, and I learn alot of things watching you. Always enjoy watching you work and explain what and how your doing it.
I appreciate the kind words. It's my goal to be informative and helpful.
@coltbuildsit you are most welcome. 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Yeah it’s a variation on Murphy’s Law. The part that was available that you didn’t buy will be the part you need.
Thanks for the grease trick, it'll definitely come in handy when I'm making signs! I'm loving this build series.
FYI....You can also use bar soap, like dial or dove to prevent clogging.
Another great video full of tips and tricks for the DIY fabricator. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Like the amount of information you put into your videos!! Enjoyed!!
Thanks 👍🏻😎
Thank you
So nice to have a smiling face to back you up . Great vids
Some slick tricks, learn something new almost every video, been playing with cars and trucks for 60 yrs and still learning new or at least easier ways to do stuff, thks Colt
Great to hear!
Shannon, when installing tires , put a pry bar under it and use the leverage to do your lifting. Much easier.
Keep up the good work.
Wax on the wheel works also. A loaded up grinding or cutting wheel can explode/fragment while spinning. Best to not let that happen. Since we are on a safety kick nice to see wife wearing better/safer footwear in the shop.
Those newbies at Matt's offroad are building a Toyota. Love your channel keep up the great content.
I can't believe they found one at such a good price. I'm stoked for them
@coltbuildsit Absolutely. I like the way you planned your build. Kept it land cruiser shape.
Cool fact, landrover tried building their own computers a while back, but gave up cos they couldn't get them to leak oil..
They do leak smoke.
I love how the cage came out 👌🏼👌🏼
Sitting in the hospital watching you . Just got done eating, and then you pulled the Tonya Harding 1000 out and no I'm dead 😂😅
Thank you for the FYI on cutting aluminum. Had no idea of the grease trick
The step bit, the fabricators best friend!!!
I used to run a wristed radius arm on my Disco 1. Basically a pin you pulled that let the driver's side flex sort of the same as if you pulled out one of the mounting bolts. It works on trail, but it absolutely EATS bushings at the chassis. As in I would have to change them after every trail run. Got to the point I could swap the out while airing up for the drive home. (with the 2-piece arm it was pretty easy to drop it out) With less lift you shouldn't eat them as fast but I'm sure it will burn through them pretty quick anyway. I ended up going away from it (still have the arms in the shop) and going to a custom longer arm with raised johnny jointed chassis mounts, but you can tell they are still limiting my front end flex. Oh, and you don't want to forget to put that pin back in before jumping on the highway headed home....That's some white-knuckle stuff there!
Looks great. Love your videos
I watch all the time, and man did it pay off today. I gotta trim my fenders on my 00 Dakota to fit 285s and wasn't entirely sure how to go about it. That was almost a how-to! You're the best
Thanks for watching, glad the video helped!
Hi Colt, If the power steering PUMP leaks, add some Old School brake fluid as I once did for years on my Discovery. IT WORKS.
Great job guys. Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching!
Awesome videos!! New to the channel. Hope to meet you at the off road games. My wife and I will be there for our honeymoon. Will you have a booth set up?
Welcome aboard! We absolutely will have a booth at the games😉👍
@5:49 Seems you and I have the SAME 'luck'. Lol😂😅😂😅
14:23 jigsaw, used it on mine... like butter and all the control
Love the Tawnya Harding 1000! 😂
Glad to see you went the safe route on the coils. Hate to see you get hurt and hope all is well!!
Just an FYI in the future you can put a 1/2 drive socket n long extention on top of your shock. Then bend it back n forth till it breaks
I've done that with jeeps before but these shock posts were about twice as thick.
Love the build Colt! ( secretly hoping you paint the diff cover lol )
Cheers from Southern California USA 🇺🇸 ❤
Bar soap works good for grinding/cutting aluminum
Robby would lose his mind if his SHOP floor got fluids on it. 😂😂😂
I like the S-10 (15) ride
Brings back memories
My boss owns 2 of these,
Both in the shop.
Mo e money than brains.
Speaking of....
How's it going cold beer Colt 🍻🗽🇺🇸🍁
The no shock thing is still an interesting rule.. can you use spring assist spacers? To take some of the bounce? Trying to get the odds in your favor 😂
great as always great content very entertaining
Really enjoying watching this from the guernsey in the uk
Built a few disco 1 landrovers for myself if I wasn’t so far away I’d help out 😄
you might want to look at putting some straps to the rear axel so the spring doesn’t drop lower than the dislocation cone speaking from experience it’s really annoying when the spring flops around and misses the cone and dosent relocate its self 😅.
Also in Jimny's (the coil sprung Samurai you didn't get) the same 1 bolt removal trick is used for more flex. Usually in trails comps - its like rock crawling courses you do, but often grass, mud/trees, but could be an old quarry and be rocks. My main issue is just destroying the bushes themselves in general use. Fit new ones, flex is reduced, they bed in you have perfect flex, then they fail/rip apart and start the process again. Poly ones have even worse flex, don't really have the sweet spot then just rip. I wish I could weld/fab. Should have stayed 2" lift and 29s rather than 4" lift and 31s for the bushes to survive better with less articulation.
Nice job Colt, thanks for the video 👋
Colt don't forget you can't use the "lug nuts" from the alloy wheels on the steel wheel if you get a puncture.
That's why I saved the steel lugnuts from the original door😉👍 thanks though
Brilliant analogy on why the Y-Link radius arms are not a good design.
Hey double check the steering fluid type. My Range Rovers ('91,'93) take ATF. The wrong fluid causes hell to the pump/gear seals. Trust me. Loving this build!
Batteries are usually filled with Dilute Sulphuric Acid "Electrolyte" , we add Distilled water to top up, The Electrolyte as the water content evaporates from the Electrolytic solution, if you lose Electrolyte through spilliege then you would refill with usually in the UK 12/70 Sulphuric Acid.
I discovered Optama batteries 🔋 in the early 90's, in my car audio phase. Quick recover, and mount any position !!!!! Great batteries 🔋 but CHA-CHING you PAY for them as well. At the time I ran the RED top. Plus they don't put off fu especially when charging like a Lead-Acid
thanks colt for another build video can't waite to see it finished and at the morr games videos. still waiting for your wifes jokes .😀
To help prevent aluminum galling, a bar of Ivory soap works well too. It also smells nice.
most European cars since the 80s use batteries that have a flange along the long sides of the bottom, and the battery tray has a clamp that holds this flange down. Typical battery size is H8 aka Group 49, but there are also H5 (group 47), H6 (group 48), H9 (group 95R) and a few others.. And the H series batteries are, I believe, all AGM, so they won't leak upside down.
Not all are AGM but most have an option available, the 94r being the most common available today.
The opening mouth thumbnail is so epic 😮😮😮
Have you looked at the DH series Optima, it has the starting power of the Red Top and the deep cell of the Yellow Top. I have one in my summer car and it works great. Thanks for the tip to cut aluminum...👍
Always love the tips and tricks
Great video
wd-40 also works very well or wax for helping when cutting aluminum.
This guy knows the law of averages work against you not for you, great explanation of buying borh hoses and the ressy.
Thanks! It's important to be prepared for anything.
Good stuff!
Why didn't you do the tape trick with the rims so you could air down also love the channel keep up the awesome work
Hey colt a bar of soap works really good and is cheaper then grease
You can also use a bar of soap instead of grease on the cutoff blade
ZOMBIEs don’t like Land Rover
Love the Derek Bieri Quote @17:50
Hmmm this would explain one of my issues with my JKU having radius arms in the front. Maybe I'll just remove one of the upper arms.
That’s cool your wife helping
Im 64 and have worked on anything that runs on gas or diesel since i was 8 ..
But always put on the NEW PARTS if ya got um lying around staring at ya,,,,, and keep the good used for when something breaks or dont go as it should...
Colt knows alot of tricks,, takes years to know this 💩/STUFF.....
Any AGM battery will not leak. AGM means Absorbed Glass Mat. Most AGMs are conventional flat plates with fiber glass mat in between that is soaked with battery acid. An Optima battery is a variation on AGM, because the plate is a continuous roll of lead plate rolled up with the glass mat in-between the the plate, similear to a swiss roll cake. AGM batteries do not leak.
Maybe some limit straps might keep coils in place sana shocks...
Colt, just an FYI. As good as your videos are I think some more lighting for the under vehicle stuff would go a long way towards us being able to see what your doing. Just a suggestion...
Colt you didn’t need to bolt the coils to the top and bottom , just the bottom and use dislocation cones at the top of the coil seats.
Then I'd be fighting those to reinstall the shocks for day 2
The shocks would stay in the tower you then just unbolt the 4 tower bolts and one at the bottom of the shock and pull the whole thing out through the top , and the rears are super easy to remove without touching the coils at all. Love the great videos 👍
Looks like land rover still using the Buick engine platform
Colt is the man !! Always a learning lesson time well spent !!! Love this channel❤❤
P-Metric tires, width in mm - sidewall a percentage of the width - diameter in inches.