Somewhere a father is very proud of this young man! Ignore the naysayers in the comments. What you have made from scratch is AWESOME. GREAT JOB! It is wonderful to see the next generation has some real men in their ranks.
I watched all the videos of your lathe and I must say that you are a guy with balls ... make a lathe out of nowhere as you did it is not something for everyone ... I congratulate you and 5 stars as an evaluation I give you 10 .... you deserve it ... good again
i hope you realize how fucking awesome that thing is. you have made something many people only dream of making. id love to see you make a mill someday. keep up the great work
I'm fascinated by how much woork you are capable of doing. And I'm also fascinated by the great results you come to. And last but not least you have brilliant ideas like your drill on the stand to mil your cuts, and now to use that fantastic lathe into a milling machine. And best of all you realise awesomely your ideas. Congratulations from an old man and a stranger to a so promising young one
I know there are lots of things people would do differently, but how many can say they built their own lathe from scrap metal? I think you have done an awesome job putting it together. Great job, you should be proud.
Woah... Oh my God that's such a good idea! I've been considering building either a lathe or a mill, I don't have room for both. Thanks for making the choice a lot easier, this is genius!
Why don't you drill the nut and put a pin in to stop it loosening? You can get rid of the nuts all together if you turn a coller on the back of the wheel and drill a hole thru the coller and the rod and pin them together. Nice job on the lathe, i am building one too, oh and you need to put something to cover the rod behind the compune slide because all the metal chips end up in the threads!!! (4:10)
Totally insane project! That you stuck with it and succeeded so well is absolutely incredible, one of the most amazing things I have seen in fact. A few thoughts: Get rid of the belt slack it permits considerable short term speed variance in your head stock / chuck resulting in poor finish and inconsistent "curls". Surface finish is generally determined by consistency of feed and speed as well as the cut and angle of the tool. In a machine lathe tool motion is maintained by one or more lead screws at a settable speed, on your lathe it is determined by how you turn the handles - that limits the final finish. That said, in the later videos you were achieving excellent finish with manual control. Variable speed motors can work really well, but treadmill motors and controllers are not optimal for that because they are setup to compensate slowly for the person on the treadmill through a current feedback circuit. Sadly you actually need to get a controller / motor combination that is designed for lathe use to make that work. (Leeson is a common one often used for wood lathes). Would kind of erase your low cost concept though, however a good 2 hp 1750 RPM AC motor would work fine with a multiple diameter pulley on it, in fact in common use on a lot of lathes a few precise fixed speeds are generally better than infinitely variable till you get to CNC anyway. One other thing, when the chuck jaws are sticking out a lot be Damn careful around that chuck when it is turning, it will bite really bad. I suspect you have already had a shop teacher who was serious about safety, and you seem to have a good natural awareness. But especially when you are building these things on your own keep in mind you really need to think about potential dangers you are creating. I have designed and built a lot of stuff and more than once very nearly gotten into serious trouble. Keep doing your amazing construction projects and producing the great videos, it is really inspiring.
Bear in mind that if you have moved your bearings to align the spindle center line with your tail stock center line, the face of your chuck back plate will no longer be square with your cross slide and will need to be faced of again. It will also affect the squareness of your cross slide to your spindle center line. I commend your work and the quality of your videos.
I'd just get nyloc nuts but thread locker works well too. All the other suggestions work well as well. The two nut Idea is how I pull studs from an engine head at work. Sometimes the nut simply wants to turn off like it suppose to and the roller stud removers will sometimes cause a thread to get mashed so backing the second nut in causes it to lock and start turning the stud.
why not use solid round stock for your tailstock and then bore it out with a boring bar in your chuck, sliding the tailstock towards the spinning boring bar ? that would ensure perfect alignment between the headstock and the tailstock.
or a giant reamer on the tube he has, but hed also need a giant drill bit to take it close to final i.d ..hmmm , either way the quill would end up aligned to the chuck.
awesome series 1 thru 12 very interesting & great skill to use mostly handtools to make the main parts. I kept thinking "idler pulley" to take the slack outta the belt on the 1st headstock setup & it *may have eliminated some vibrations working through the axle to the chuck. & might help on the new headstock setup as well- if nothing else it will eliminate the slop in the belt. also On the loosening Acme nuts the reason jamming 2 together won't stay tight is due to vibrations of course, but also the thread on Acme Rod, by design won't allow any "pinch" like a normal threaded bolt or rod. mechanical fastener like mentioned, set screw or pin or lock washers will help.
congratulations to your homebuilt lathe. Obviously there is still some room for improvement. As you mentioned the tool post and everything underneath it is still not rigid enough. You already have ideas to improve that. But another thing is the spindle. You can see it leave the center line in you videos. The first problem is that your bearings in the bearing blocks are most likely ball bearings possibly self aligning ball bearings both of which are not strong enough and certainly not rigid enough under axial loads. As soon as you press drills in axial direction with your new tailstock the spindle bearings will increase chatter and fail soon. What's more your spindle shaft seems thin enough to flex in bending. Set a dial gauge to it and lean on it. Think about improvements here like a beefier spindle diameter and some form of bearings that can also take axial loads like the current types but with an additional axial ball bearing supporting a shoulder on the spindle against the head stock. Or even better two opposed angular ball bearings instead of the present ones. The big lathes use tapered roller bearings. But that would be overkill here (and expensive). Good luck.
this is so cool i just watched every video back to back and for all its cost you couldn't even buy a good mini lathe for that money well done buddy i did keep thinking the whole way through wouldn't it be handy if you had a lathe... when you where building your lathe... to make parts for your lathe
Great heavy and sturdy design throughout. Did you come up with the compound slide design yourself? Curious if you have any drawings of the dimensions? Thanks.
Superb video! As for aligning the mill vice - how about adding just a shim between the vice and the plate on one side to move it out and help align it?
YOU ARE DOING FANTASTIC! You did not mill The back side of your chuck back plate. That is causing some very very tiny imbalance that is affecting your finish. Mill the back side of the back plate to help balance the back plate. See if it will help the finish of parts.
take the vice off the plate.. put a flycutter in the lathe.. then machine the upright plate itself till its perfectly square.. i hope that makes sense, a face mill , even a sanding disc might get it 100% true to the headstock.. ( once its true perpendicular to the head stock , its true to the chuck )
hola te escribo desde PERU y me parace genial la fabricacion del torno casero que as hecho yo soy soldador 6g y se me hace tedioso biselar manualmente con a amoladora de 7 pulgadas quisiera tu ayuda con una maquina casera para biselar tubos redondos a bajo costo por los que ay en el mercado son muy caros ojala me puedas ayudar gracias espero tu respuesta y tu video gracias saludos y exitos
Most people don't realize in today's computer controlled world that in the past machinist had to use inferior tools and equipment to make better tools and equipment.....job well done on using your intelligence and determination instead of your credit card....
Its not perfect like you said but you did a great job you should be proud I may even build one myself. But please can you go buy a set of wrenches your killing me with the vice grips even a cheap set from harbor freight would be fine.
As i was watching this i tought of something from one of your previous videos, calling it the "nipple" episode where you were talking about the height of the chuck vs the cutting tool. And i had a what i thought was a brilliant idea =) If you were to mount a laserpointer in the chuck to use as guide to the cuttingtool. Just a thought. Damn nice project!
drilling vices are not safe for milling. They are made for drilling where the work is always pressed down by the drill. When milling the cutters moving sideways and not down can suck the work out of the vice because the movable jaw of drilling vices usually are not held down. Bronze and brass work is particularly risky to be pulled out. The feed screw is not adequate to hold the work down. Check that. How do you plan to clamp a milling cutter? In the chuck? That would only work with hexagonal shafts on the milling cutters. A collet chuck could do it but that is on the upper end of the price range. A so called Weldon-chuck (its a name. nothing to do with welding) could do it also if your cutters have a flat on their shaft. You need one for each standard shaft diameter (like 6 or 8 chucks). But they are easy to make for yourself.
Hi. is that he was working on the winch and it happened that the automatic longitudinal carriage does not work and does not take the manual advance. what can i do, thanks
You have the patience to grind a groove in solid steel, 1-1/2" wide by 1/2" deep 30" long for your carriage, but you don't have the patience to make your fabrications square, perpendicular, plumb, etc.??? No offense intended, it just wracks my brain to see you in a hurry on things that matter! And I'm sorry- but you now have a lathe, make some damn hand wheels that are round and don't wobble and some speed knobs! lmao Also a suggestion, on places you need to adjust, like the vise holding your stock to cut keyways, weld on tabs and make jackbolts to raise, level, square etc. so you can have fine and firm adjustments.
Gracias maestro, usted puede vender los planos para comprarlos. Saludos desde Bogota, Colombia. Thank you teacher, you can sell the plans to buy them. Greetings from Bogota, Colombia
There is an invention called lock screw for your loose nut, drill through one of the faces, tap it and pass a screw through it et voila.. nothing loosens.
Making DIY lathes was big in eastern europe in the 90s.. but oh boy all of those lathes were so crappily made you wouldn't believe.. they still show up on our "craigslists" and I don't understand that they're able to sell them
Somewhere a father is very proud of this young man! Ignore the naysayers in the comments. What you have made from scratch is AWESOME. GREAT JOB! It is wonderful to see the next generation has some real men in their ranks.
I follow this guy. He inspired me to make my own metal shop completely from scratch. Hes a genius
I watched all the videos of your lathe and I must say that you are a guy with balls ... make a lathe out of nowhere as you did it is not something for everyone ... I congratulate you and 5 stars as an evaluation I give you 10 .... you deserve it ... good again
i hope you realize how fucking awesome that thing is. you have made something many people only dream of making. id love to see you make a mill someday. keep up the great work
his mill build would be easier in theory
YAHHH, NICE LATHE TO WORK WOOD...
Cylo's Garage yeah next thing you know he'll build a diesel electric submarine (ive wanted to build one since I was about ten).
I'm fascinated by how much woork you are capable of doing. And I'm also fascinated by the great results you come to. And last but not least you have brilliant ideas like your drill on the stand to mil your cuts, and now to use that fantastic lathe into a milling machine. And best of all you realise awesomely your ideas. Congratulations from an old man and a stranger to a so promising young one
That milling method is brilliant! I've never seen a lathe used like that! Your efforts are very inspiring and I love your lathe videos.
I know there are lots of things people would do differently, but how many can say they built their own lathe from scrap metal? I think you have done an awesome job putting it together. Great job, you should be proud.
You now have a milling machine that will do a lot more than keyways. Very cool.
Woah... Oh my God that's such a good idea! I've been considering building either a lathe or a mill, I don't have room for both. Thanks for making the choice a lot easier, this is genius!
Exelente trabajo de verdad lo felicito. Me gusta tu forma de trabajar y explica los detalles. Yo hice un torno como el tuyo. Soy de Venezuela
Why don't you drill the nut and put a pin in to stop it loosening? You can get rid of the nuts all together if you turn a coller on the back of the wheel and drill a hole thru the coller and the rod and pin them together. Nice job on the lathe, i am building one too, oh and you need to put something to cover the rod behind the compune slide because all the metal chips end up in the threads!!! (4:10)
Totally insane project!
That you stuck with it and succeeded so well is absolutely incredible, one of the most amazing things I have seen in fact.
A few thoughts: Get rid of the belt slack it permits considerable short term speed variance in your head stock / chuck resulting in poor finish and inconsistent "curls".
Surface finish is generally determined by consistency of feed and speed as well as the cut and angle of the tool.
In a machine lathe tool motion is maintained by one or more lead screws at a settable speed, on your lathe it is determined by how you turn the handles - that limits the final finish.
That said, in the later videos you were achieving excellent finish with manual control.
Variable speed motors can work really well, but treadmill motors and controllers are not optimal for that because they are setup to compensate slowly for the person on the treadmill through a current feedback circuit.
Sadly you actually need to get a controller / motor combination that is designed for lathe use to make that work. (Leeson is a common one often used for wood lathes).
Would kind of erase your low cost concept though, however a good 2 hp 1750 RPM AC motor would work fine with a multiple diameter pulley on it, in fact in common use on a lot of lathes a few precise fixed speeds are generally better than infinitely variable till you get to CNC anyway.
One other thing, when the chuck jaws are sticking out a lot be Damn careful around that chuck when it is turning, it will bite really bad.
I suspect you have already had a shop teacher who was serious about safety, and you seem to have a good natural awareness.
But especially when you are building these things on your own keep in mind you really need to think about potential dangers you are creating.
I have designed and built a lot of stuff and more than once very nearly gotten into serious trouble.
Keep doing your amazing construction projects and producing the great videos, it is really inspiring.
Most brutal looking homemade lathe i've ever seen... Nice job! :D
Totally excellent series of videos, a project most of us would love to do, but never will.
Dobro si napravio taj tokarski stroj , svaka čast !
Bear in mind that if you have moved your bearings to align the spindle center line with your
tail stock center line, the face of your chuck back plate will no longer be square with your cross slide and will need to be faced of again. It will also affect the squareness of your
cross slide to your spindle center line. I commend your work and the quality of your videos.
love you videos but at 12:00 you said the bolts keep loosening use some loctite threadlocker it will stop it from backing out
i would bore a hole into the nut to install a setscrew
Austin Hamilton i would just add another bolt and tighten it on the one loosing it... common problem in prototyping
Loctite Studlocker (red) would be the way to go.
I'd just get nyloc nuts but thread locker works well too. All the other suggestions work well as well. The two nut Idea is how I pull studs from an engine head at work. Sometimes the nut simply wants to turn off like it suppose to and the roller stud removers will sometimes cause a thread to get mashed so backing the second nut in causes it to lock and start turning the stud.
why not use solid round stock for your tailstock and then bore it out with a boring bar in your chuck, sliding the tailstock towards the spinning boring bar ? that would ensure perfect alignment between the headstock and the tailstock.
i concur
or a giant reamer on the tube he has, but hed also need a giant drill bit to take it close to final i.d ..hmmm , either way the quill would end up aligned to the chuck.
Should use DOM tubing
NO YOUNG MAN THE MACHINE DID NOT DO IT. YOU DID IT. YOU ARE AN AWESOME KID.
Milling attachment works great man , Thumbs up !!
Tengo 4 año viendo tus vídeos y tus trabajos
awesome series 1 thru 12 very interesting & great skill to use mostly handtools to make the main parts.
I kept thinking "idler pulley" to take the slack outta the belt on the 1st headstock setup & it *may have eliminated some vibrations working through the axle to the chuck. & might help on the new headstock setup as well- if nothing else it will eliminate the slop in the belt.
also On the loosening Acme nuts the reason jamming 2 together won't stay tight is due to vibrations of course, but also the thread on Acme Rod, by design won't allow any "pinch" like a normal threaded bolt or rod. mechanical fastener like mentioned, set screw or pin or lock washers will help.
This is turning out to be an awesome machine!
Awesome video man !!!.. Id say your best friend would be, tread locker and maybe use alittle Graphite dust on that lathe wheel ?
Nice work. I'll cast my vote for using a pair of jam nuts for capturing your handles.
congratulations to your homebuilt lathe. Obviously there is still some room for improvement. As you mentioned the tool post and everything underneath it is still not rigid enough. You already have ideas to improve that. But another thing is the spindle. You can see it leave the center line in you videos. The first problem is that your bearings in the bearing blocks are most likely ball bearings possibly self aligning ball bearings both of which are not strong enough and certainly not rigid enough under axial loads. As soon as you press drills in axial direction with your new tailstock the spindle bearings will increase chatter and fail soon. What's more your spindle shaft seems thin enough to flex in bending. Set a dial gauge to it and lean on it. Think about improvements here like a beefier spindle diameter and some form of bearings that can also take axial loads like the current types but with an additional axial ball bearing supporting a shoulder on the spindle against the head stock. Or even better two opposed angular ball bearings instead of the present ones. The big lathes use tapered roller bearings. But that would be overkill here (and expensive). Good luck.
this lathe might not be very accurate but it is incredibly well built and strong
Great job keep up the good work what are the kinds of tools you can make with a lathe is endless I never realized that
Nice job. Your building a awesome machine. Thank you for sharing
LISTEN !!!!! Do not use long sleeves !!!!! KEEP YOUR ARMS, HANDS, LIFE
massive respect for you man. That is awesome
Absolutely wonderful, great job fella!
this is so cool i just watched every video back to back and for all its cost you couldn't even buy a good mini lathe for that money well done buddy i did keep thinking the whole way through wouldn't it be handy if you had a lathe... when you where building your lathe... to make parts for your lathe
Keep it up, good job !
Great heavy and sturdy design throughout. Did you come up with the compound slide design yourself? Curious if you have any drawings of the dimensions? Thanks.
on your knob, either get a nylon locknut or double nut it to lock it in place
Superb video! As for aligning the mill vice - how about adding just a shim between the vice and the plate on one side to move it out and help align it?
You are doing good job , very super strong length metal for super strong machining.
your lathe is amazing man you did a really good job
you do great mate :-). nice project
make bigger plate compound slider to fit that big tool holder.
great job man.
YOU ARE DOING FANTASTIC!
You did not mill The back side of your chuck back plate. That is causing some very very tiny imbalance that is affecting your finish.
Mill the back side of the back plate to help balance the back plate. See if it will help the finish of parts.
Good job, go on Boy!!
Tá ficando legal o seu torno. Como vai fazer roscas nele?
What you need to do is drill a small hole in the bolt that keeps coming loose and tap it and put a tightening screw in to clamp it on the rod.
take the vice off the plate.. put a flycutter in the lathe.. then machine the upright plate itself till its perfectly square.. i hope that makes sense, a face mill , even a sanding disc might get it 100% true to the headstock.. ( once its true perpendicular to the head stock , its true to the chuck )
Do you bore the tail stock on the lathe to get it perfectly straight
So did you happen to keep track of the total of what you have into this lathe? I'm very curious. Thanks!!
this is awesome! amazing job
very good
nice teacher
hola te escribo desde PERU y me parace genial la fabricacion del torno casero que as hecho yo soy soldador 6g y se me hace tedioso biselar manualmente con a amoladora de 7 pulgadas quisiera tu ayuda con una maquina casera para biselar tubos redondos a bajo costo por los que ay en el mercado son muy caros ojala me puedas ayudar gracias espero tu respuesta y tu video gracias saludos y exitos
Most people don't realize in today's computer controlled world that in the past machinist had to use inferior tools and equipment to make better tools and equipment.....job well done on using your intelligence and determination instead of your credit card....
this is very very good job.
good job
У этого человека было 100 вариантов стать инвалидом, но он даже не заметил этого.
Удача не бесконечна. Техника безопасности написана кровью.
Great job very impressed young man amazing
Works GREAT. Im trying to figure it out the measures, but, if You wann be MAGNANIMUS, can You share those pls? Thanks in advance
Why have you not put a free rotating handle on all adjustment wheels for smooth transfer of travel?
Nice set up.
Its not perfect like you said but you did a great job you should be proud I may even build one myself. But please can you go buy a set of wrenches your killing me with the vice grips even a cheap set from harbor freight would be fine.
Nice machine. Key your knob so it stays tight.
Can I buy the set of plans off of you for this lathe build?
How much did it cost to make it?
As i was watching this i tought of something from one of your previous videos, calling it the "nipple" episode where you were talking about the height of the chuck vs the cutting tool. And i had a what i thought was a brilliant idea =) If you were to mount a laserpointer in the chuck to use as guide to the cuttingtool. Just a thought. Damn nice project!
You could drill and tap the nut and put in a setscrew that you could tighten down to keep it from loosening !
Drill a small set screw in the nut or a drive pin. Weld the nut to the wheel though.
this thing works great for what it is!
To avoid that bolts from moving al you hace to do is find lager ones and use a spring.
Hi friend, I'm from Peru, I would like to know how much power is the motor you use for the lathe
Poderia me dizer qual o tipo de maquina configuraçoes dela que vc usa para soldar essas chapas grossas
open the holes, get it right and then add some register pins.
drilling vices are not safe for milling. They are made for drilling where the work is always pressed down by the drill. When milling the cutters moving sideways and not down can suck the work out of the vice because the movable jaw of drilling vices usually are not held down. Bronze and brass work is particularly risky to be pulled out. The feed screw is not adequate to hold the work down. Check that. How do you plan to clamp a milling cutter? In the chuck? That would only work with hexagonal shafts on the milling cutters. A collet chuck could do it but that is on the upper end of the price range. A so called Weldon-chuck (its a name. nothing to do with welding) could do it also if your cutters have a flat on their shaft. You need one for each standard shaft diameter (like 6 or 8 chucks). But they are easy to make for yourself.
congratulation, excelent work
end?
good job man...
Hi. is that he was working on the winch and it happened that the automatic longitudinal carriage does not work and does not take the manual advance. what can i do, thanks
All those turning screws while your cutting really bother my ocd. Please fix it. Thanks for your consideration. Great job.
you could get lock nuts instead of using locktite/super glue
You have the patience to grind a groove in solid steel, 1-1/2" wide by 1/2" deep 30" long for your carriage, but you don't have the patience to make your fabrications square, perpendicular, plumb, etc.??? No offense intended, it just wracks my brain to see you in a hurry on things that matter! And I'm sorry- but you now have a lathe, make some damn hand wheels that are round and don't wobble and some speed knobs! lmao Also a suggestion, on places you need to adjust, like the vise holding your stock to cut keyways, weld on tabs and make jackbolts to raise, level, square etc. so you can have fine and firm adjustments.
The handles need a key to keep them locked on the lead screw.
great job
Parabéns amigo muito bom. Mais um escrito no seu canal tamos junto abraço
absolutely shocking awesome!!! certainly I''ll gonna do it!>!!
Well done.
Gracias maestro, usted puede vender los planos para comprarlos. Saludos desde Bogota, Colombia. Thank you teacher, you can sell the plans to buy them. Greetings from Bogota, Colombia
Tighten the nuts on the handle. Drill a hole through the nut and threaded rod and put a cotter pin in it.
Hello friend could you please post the measurements of the lathe car please
you should do a q&a
Use coolant you are going to fuck up all your lathe tools and the pieces you fabricate on the lathe, keep the vids coming bro 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You need a lock nut on your gib adjusting screws to keep them in place
wow thats excellent.
There is an invention called lock screw for your loose nut, drill through one of the faces, tap it and pass a screw through it et voila.. nothing loosens.
not all heros wear capes......................or do you wear one while filming hahsa
17:20 lock tight it or drill and split pin it
Making DIY lathes was big in eastern europe in the 90s.. but oh boy all of those lathes were so crappily made you wouldn't believe.. they still show up on our "craigslists" and I don't understand that they're able to sell them
I've personally talked to a couple guys who bought Craigslist Lathes.
Through the grapevine, many said they were to work wood.
You made a machine out of shit and sticks. my compliments, it's awesome!
gearbox please
Loctite, not superglue.
threadlock fluid to keep "deez nuts" in place. =)
put 5 bolts instead of 3. I do that to all my chinisium mill tables an mini mills to make the accurate.
buen video
randirad
p0
This is a awesome series minus the stupid background music