I discovered you accidently and love your videos, your explainations since they are clear and you take your time to explain things step by step and also what you are using. Also a big thanks to the guy who is filming all this since he shows everything.
What I do is to previously frame the template with cartoon so it does no bend and stays stiffer on top of the cups or whatever you use. So both hands are free!
Hello, Jill! Another Jill checking in! I'm relatively new to fusing, and have been enjoying your videos! I did want to ask - is there any reason why not to do multiple firings? E.g. lay down the powder frit, then fire, then stencil on the tree and cats, fire, then the dimensional lower-temp firing? Sorry if this is a silly question; I'm still new. 😆
Hi Jill, great to have you onboard. It's not a silly question. Yes you can do multiple firings. However, there is not a single answer to your question. Some glass styles can be fully fused many times without any noticeable changes. Other glass has a tendency to change under repeated or prolonged firings. It is all down to the compatibility of the different types of glass you have used in your project. Have a read under the 'Compatibility' heading in this link www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/what-to-expect-from-bullseye-glass.html
Love to see the finished glass piece in the end! It just is amazing how it all comes together!! I do have a technical question...On the annealing segment, how do you know whether to use 60 mins or 90 mins or 120 mins? I see in this schedule, you used 120mins. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do these wonderful projects! Kristy :)
Hi Kristy You have been busy watching all our videos, thank you for that. The Warm Glass firing schedule has a 120min annealing segment as a default, which is what we have used here. It's a failsafe schedule as it covers work of different thicknesses which is quite common when doing tack fused work. If you download the schedule from Warm Glass' website you will see there's a table in the bottom right-hand corner which covers annealing and how much to extend the time based on the thickness of your piece. In reality for this piece we could have used a shorter annealing time as there's not much depth to the piece being that it was mainly powders.
Good video. Thanks. Do you have any suggestions for using stencils with a medium to thicken the powder so it can be applied on top? To get a clearer line? Thanks
In this piece I applied just powder through the stencil on to a powder background. The closer you can get to the surface the less fuzzy the outline. not easy when there's a powder background lol. If you apply directly to glass you can use a colour shaper or paint brush to simply smooth around the edges to get a crisp line. Alternatively you can apply enamel paint by sponging it through the stencil then add in the background around it. Adding a medium like Glasstac or clear school glue to the powder may result in the powder mixture spreading and distorting the pattern. Hope these suggestions help.
Thanks for watching Susan. Powder Pro Plus seem to be in short supply at present hearing back from others who have been trying to purchase on the back of our previous videos. You don't say where in the world you are. In the UK there's the Creative Glass Guild that sells them and also Warm Glass. In the USA try AEE glass. Just do a search for P3 or Powder Pro Plus in Google if no luck with any of the suggestions.
You can often mind microsifters where you can get enameling supplies (at least here in the US) you can get them in a variety of mesh sizes as well-they dont have the spring like the one in the video
You don’t say where in the world you are so can’t give you a country specific link. Google jewellery micro sifter. We got ours from Warm Glass here in the UK.
Thank you for watching Kevin. Jill normally wears a N95 mask for powder work, however it muffles the audio when recording these. In all the other videos we've done using powders Jill mentions this point. Unfortunately in this one we forgot to say. Good point and thanks for mentioning it as it is a good safety point.
Stencils, have you used them? Which ones do you like best?
Lovely....on your wave, what do you use to keep it steady if it wants to tip over?
Thank you Donna. Have a look at this video which shows how we prevent our pieces slipping on the mould. ruclips.net/video/svYYICK8ZbQ/видео.html
I discovered you accidently and love your videos, your explainations since they are clear and you take your time to explain things step by step and also what you are using. Also a big thanks to the guy who is filming all this since he shows everything.
Thank you for watching and commenting. We are delighted you like our style, content and filming approach.
Спасибо!
Thank you 🙏
I agree, the lid never fit the pot! I love your video´s. Thanks for sharing.
LOL, yes the lids are poor fitting. Glad to hear you enjoy our videos.
I am inspired.! Thank you
Awesome, go you! Thanks for watching.
awesome!! thank u for showing how to do the stencils. Thank u for the fire schedules too
Thanks for watching Elaine. Our pleasure.
Lovely piece. Well done video!
Thank you for watching Laura, glad to hear you liked it.
I love orange!! Brilliant piece x
Thank you, glad you like.
Love watching , really inspired by your projects, thanks Jill, l'm new to glass fusing .
Thank you for watching Georgia, great to hear we have inspired you. That's brilliant news.
Thanks for good idee👍👍❤
Thanks for watching. Glad you liked it.
Brilliant thank you
Thank you Lynn, glad you liked it.
What I do is to previously frame the template with cartoon so it does no bend and stays stiffer on top of the cups or whatever you use. So both hands are free!
Great idea, thanks for sharing.
Hello, Jill! Another Jill checking in!
I'm relatively new to fusing, and have been enjoying your videos! I did want to ask - is there any reason why not to do multiple firings? E.g. lay down the powder frit, then fire, then stencil on the tree and cats, fire, then the dimensional lower-temp firing?
Sorry if this is a silly question; I'm still new. 😆
Hi Jill, great to have you onboard. It's not a silly question. Yes you can do multiple firings. However, there is not a single answer to your question. Some glass styles can be fully fused many times without any noticeable changes. Other glass has a tendency to change under repeated or prolonged firings. It is all down to the compatibility of the different types of glass you have used in your project. Have a read under the 'Compatibility' heading in this link www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/what-to-expect-from-bullseye-glass.html
The rabbit on your coffee cup looks like a rabbit painted by my friend's daughter, Gemma!
Ah okay. it's a mug from Sainsburys, we have one with a fox on it too. One of my favs.
Love to see the finished glass piece in the end! It just is amazing how it all comes together!! I do have a technical question...On the annealing segment, how do you know whether to use 60 mins or 90 mins or 120 mins? I see in this schedule, you used 120mins. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do these wonderful projects! Kristy :)
Hi Kristy
You have been busy watching all our videos, thank you for that.
The Warm Glass firing schedule has a 120min annealing segment as a default, which is what we have used here. It's a failsafe schedule as it covers work of different thicknesses which is quite common when doing tack fused work. If you download the schedule from Warm Glass' website you will see there's a table in the bottom right-hand corner which covers annealing and how much to extend the time based on the thickness of your piece.
In reality for this piece we could have used a shorter annealing time as there's not much depth to the piece being that it was mainly powders.
Good video. Thanks. Do you have any suggestions for using stencils with a medium to thicken the powder so it can be applied on top? To get a clearer line? Thanks
In this piece I applied just powder through the stencil on to a powder background. The closer you can get to the surface the less fuzzy the outline. not easy when there's a powder background lol. If you apply directly to glass you can use a colour shaper or paint brush to simply smooth around the edges to get a crisp line. Alternatively you can apply enamel paint by sponging it through the stencil then add in the background around it. Adding a medium like Glasstac or clear school glue to the powder may result in the powder mixture spreading and distorting the pattern. Hope these suggestions help.
Great classes 😁 thank u. Please say where one could get powder pro. Thanku.
Thanks for watching Susan.
Powder Pro Plus seem to be in short supply at present hearing back from others who have been trying to purchase on the back of our previous videos. You don't say where in the world you are. In the UK there's the Creative Glass Guild that sells them and also Warm Glass. In the USA try AEE glass. Just do a search for P3 or Powder Pro Plus in Google if no luck with any of the suggestions.
Where do you get a micro sifter?
From WarmGlass here in the UK.
I will need to order one & ship it to Canada or get my cousin to get one & bring it over Thanks
You can often mind microsifters where you can get enameling supplies (at least here in the US) you can get them in a variety of mesh sizes as well-they dont have the spring like the one in the video
Question were can I buy the micro sniffer, can’t find it , thanks in advance
You don’t say where in the world you are so can’t give you a country specific link. Google jewellery micro sifter. We got ours from Warm Glass here in the UK.
Would you have a source for your stencils?
Hi Diane, mainly find them online. There's no one place I'd recommend. Have a search in Google.
@@FiredGlass thank you.... just what I did on Amazon. :)
Where do I get the small sifter? Can't find it on amazon.
We got ours from Warmglass, any good glass supplier should stock them.
We’re you using 6mm tekta for the base ???
It’s 3mm Tekta. A Full materials list is in the description beneath the video.
@@FiredGlass thanks 😊 I’ve been watching on my TV so haven’t figured out how to look at anything but the videos 😂😂😂 lovely projects xxx
Nice work, but get a real respirator. That surgical mask is not for keeping dust out of your lungs.
Thank you for watching Kevin. Jill normally wears a N95 mask for powder work, however it muffles the audio when recording these. In all the other videos we've done using powders Jill mentions this point. Unfortunately in this one we forgot to say.
Good point and thanks for mentioning it as it is a good safety point.
@@FiredGlass good deal. Love the video. Very helpful in my own current project.
@@MrMonkey6031 that’s great to hear. 🙌
I likes your videos. But i dont like the tekst over the work
Thank you. I guess you are watching with subtitles which you can turn off to remove the text.