What a fantastic test. Very informative and helpful. Greatly appreciated. Time to "step back" and start working with "3 in 1" for my knife projects again. Thank you.
I'm a huge gun nut, and I've always used rem oil on my blades. Just got a bonus at work and bought the tomahawk I've wanted for several years, and I wanted to know the best possible way to maintain it. This video showed me how wrong I was. Just goes to show, no matter how much you think you know, you can always be shown up. This is quality content.
Man this is a fantastic test. I'm completely amazed about the 3 in 1 oil. Great video, and great job doing your best to keep the conditions even. Thank you sir.
Great test man. very detailed. very professional. Ive made knives for 13 years, and I just learned more about these products in 20mins then in years. thanks so much for putting this together!
Great test. I have been using 3in1 myself, only because I had it around and wanted to protect my blades. I read different complaints from people claiming their knives were rusting fast (Not sure what they were using, but not 3in1)...but I've never had a problem and NOW I know why thanks to you! All the best!
Brother you are an answered prayer! I just finished my first large survival/bushcraft knife and I blued it only to find some slight surface rust in two days! I will now re=blue and oil with 3in1. You ROCK and you have a new sub my brother! - Donny
Six years later and I’ve just found this. Thanks a lot for doing this experiment. What I’m getting out of it is bluing with 3-in-1 oil would be the best treatment and cost effective given what you have. I’m not as surprised at the bluing as I am the 3-in-1 oil. I’ve never found RemOil to be good at much. This just confirms it.
I know this is a old vid but my buddy told me you don't want to use 1095 because it rust really bad. Well I'm sending him this vid and at coffee tomorrow we will have a good discussion. I love when people like you spend so much time to give us lazy people a quality vid with unsurpassed information. thank you so much
Thanks for checking it out. 1095, 1080, O1, etc. all rust and all are very popular knife steels. About half of what I make is carbon steel and I have a lot of customers that specifically ask for it. Just takes a little more maintenance.
Ive had an esee 4 for a year and my dpx hest for 5 months and haven't had to much rust problems. Mind you, they are both coated (mines worn through the coating) but other then the honing oil I use, I dont really put any oils or anything extra unless I use the knife in the rain or put it on the shelf when I get a new one -yay!- Even if it does rust its usually nothing a quick stone or stropping won't fix. Sure, 1095 rusts, but only with neglect. Take this test for instance, they spent 21 days outside in the open. So just try not to leave it on the deck or lose it in the bush..
As someone who evaluates experiments as part of their living, this was well done indeed. Especially the control and the common environment. I have found that rust bluing holds up better than a cold blue, but you certainly seem to have it down. I will be buying more 3 in 1 oil.
I also want to mention that I use 3in1 for all maintenance of any tool I own. I'm in the weather year round in my job, and rain will tighten up any one of my tools up in a solid day. easily. I use a lot of pliers and crimpers with metal hinges.Typically, outside of the occasional reapply after a rain shower, I only have to apply the oil maybe twice a year. I wished I had a video of it, but I've got a pair of old channel locks I soaked in oil for about a week to break it's seize. They're one of my better pairs of pliers. WD-40 is meant for a temporary application until a better alternative is available. It's only a bandaid placed on a gunshot wound, if you will. Be safe out there fellers.
@Self Made, Great job! I have always been told by my grandfather and my father, 3in1, Unless your going to use it for food. Then use mineral oil after every use.
just got some 1095 in today to start making knives...very informative thank you....my dad and I have always used 3in1 since I can remember and has always done the trick I just didn't know it was this darn good...thanks man!!
FANTASTIC VIDEO SIR! This taught me so much on how to care for all 100+ knives I own! I have many in 1095 & enjoy stripping coatings (except on ESEE). So, I guess I "blue" the blades then soak them in 3 in 1 oil overnight, then wipe off? I'm really impressed man. Thank you very much for making this video. Thorough & explanatory! God Bless.
Well, I finally found a video I can point people at. All I ever hear from arm chair bush crafters is that 1095 will rust up. I've been using em in some of the dampest environments possible, hell I have an ESEE that goes on my kayak when I go fishing. All I did was remove what was left of their finish, force an acid patina, then oil with food safe mineral oil. A little upkeep goes a long way.
Thank you so much for doing this test. I’m just getting into knife making and didn’t know the best way to protect the steel. You spent a lot of time and money for many other people’s benefit. I learned a lot! Thank you again.
Weird how A 2 year old video is appearing in many people's RUclips feeds recently. Anyway, great video. Very interesting. I was rooting for mineral oil, because it's food safe, but I was still happy that good ol' 3 in 1 was the winner!
Here in 2024 and this is a great comparison test. Thank you. 3-n1 for the win for sure. However, product formulas change over time so I wonder if there would be a differences today with these same products. Anyway, I'll be picking up some 3-n-1 for my blades.
Great video, i will definitely be using 3in1 on my damascus steel knives . Just goes to show you that expensive doesnt mean better. Good ole 3in1 , cheap , readily available. Just reassuring the " if it ain't broke dont fix it" saying. Thanks.
I viewed this vid about a year ago, and I pass it on to people I know whom work with metal or tools in some way ... my grandad used 3 in 1 and so did I growing up on rifles, knives etc. I had no idea it was the BEST choice .... great tests
Thank you so much for doing this test! I'm sure, a fella could spend hours upon hours and truckloads of material testing every method out there, but what you have done is great!
Tips I have learned from my years of having carbon steel knives. When I clean them, after washing with soap & water, rinse with water, THEN rinse with rubbing alcohol. I then warm the blade to about 100-120F in my oven, and when I pull them out I apply Birchwood's Super Blue. Rinse. Repeat. I then warm the blade again to about 100-120F in my oven, and pull it out and either apply 3-in-1 oil -OR- coconut oil to the blade. I allow that to dry. Then warm it up a 2nd time and reapply the oil. So far I have had very little rust EVER touch any of my carbon steel blades. And this process is cheap and easy. Thank you for your testing and video, confirming a lot of what I knew to be true.
Lonewolf6565. For some reason I can't reply to your comment normally, so.... The point of doing rust testing on "in the white" blanks is that I wanted them to be as identical of a surface as possible. Not sure what you mean by "without a finish"? I sell blades without a finish all the time. If you mean hand sanding finish, well, I also sell blades with a media blast finish too. I was just trying to find a way to make a fair test. I didn't think I could get the exact same hand sanded or buffed finish on 10 blanks. And, not sound mean, but you do not know what you're talking about on leather sheath keeping moisture away from a blade. Just the opposite it true! Leather absorbs moisture, even just from the air in your home. Thanks for you comment, I'm open to everyone's opinion and I know I'm not an expert.
Self Made Agreed,... its not so much about the finish per say but more about a comparison of products that can be used to prevent rust and how they perform on basic finishes and yes I too sell blades all the time without a finish. On carbon blades I would send them out the door with a light film of 30wt motor oil, might hafta switch to 3 in 1 now in light of your test,..thanks!
Just read his comment, he isn't very knowledgeable on production knifes. There are far more bead blasted and polished knives made and sold that blue. The whole reason the knife community talks about patinas on carbon knives is due to lack of finishes used on knifes. Mainly due to wear on finishes during use. How many knives would get sent back under warranty for finish wear if all knives where blued?
+Self Made i think we all knew Wd40 was going to do good i mean its name it literally water displacement formula 40 and i knew 3 in 1 was going to do good just didn't think it was going to be better than WD40 i call this test time well spent
I am really happy that somebody is doing a real test on the carbon steel blade coatings. I have some experience in the marine industry and what i have used on carbon steel exposed to sea water is Mobil 1 EP2 grease. This is a water proof grease that does not wash away and it has excellent rust protection and lubrication . Unfortunately the grease is toxic and cannot be used on a knife blade because knife is commonly used for cutting food. If the knife is never used for food then any marine grade water proof synthetic grease will be an excellent choice for rust prevention and protection.
WD40 is a good cleaning and lubricating product. WD stands for water displacement, the down side of WD40 is the lubricant evaporates away pretty quickly leaving the surface unprotected. The 3-in-1 is a good solid lubricating oil. When I clean my guns and knives I always clean with WD40, then wipe everything down and lube with 3-in-1. I've done this since I was a child and my grandfather showed me how to clean guns. Fact is, it doesn't matter what base metal or coating you have on your blade or gun, if you don't periodically take them out and give them a good wipe and clean they will corrode. Good video.
Ken Parnell I also heard WD-40 leaves no protection behind. Thanks for the info on what WD stands for. That's the main thing I use it for along with wash down. 3-in-1 is spindle oil with citronella for scent. I'm trying WD-40 gel but it's very messy and expensive. Maybe best used lightly.
Self Made, you should try a test (without duplicating the whole procedure) with FrogLube. Primarily a firearm lubricant. I've watched many corrosion proofing vids with over 100 products. FrogLube is always in position 1-4 for corrosion resistance. Has HUGE added advantage for cutlery in that it's a food grade product. It's what I use on all my firearms and carbon blades. Just food for thought.
My first knife was given to me by my grandfather, an old farmer, fisherman, Christian and one hell of a drunk. he's given most of those hobbies up by now. Lol.He swore on 3in1 brand oil for conditioning and maintaining a knife. That man hung the moon for me back then. so I've never even considered another repellant for my knives. With that being said; he also said that a knife that is well used, and well made, will always "rust". I'm not talking about the dirty brown stuff displayed in your test. I'm talking about a 'cured' layer of family history on the metal. like it just came out of a blanket of coal dust. most of my old knives eventually ended up having that layer of black on them. But I still pull them out and rub a little oil on them for storage. I enjoyed your video sir. thank you.
Thank you. I've been using WD and 3n1 on my guns since I was born. Millennial gun guys call that fudd behavior . Shows what they know. It was good enough for dad and grandpa, so its good enough for me.
Wow! I am impressed... Been using 3 in1 for years because of the price and had no idea it was that much better than anything other oil based product. Guess that explains why I never had an issue... Thanks a lot!!!
I wonder if the results would have been different if you used a heat gun and heated each blade and then applied the oil or wax due to the metal allowing the oil to penetrate and flow better.
Awesome job! This is extremely helpful, there has been a lot of talk about the best way to treat knives online and this definitely shows real world results. I'm surprised, but now I know how to send out my knives with confidence. Thank you!
I've done a similar test (although using steel wool) using timelapse photography and have done research on others who have done the same and it always turns out that the oils don't do too well but solutions that double as rust preventatives and removers do well, like WD40, Breakfree CLP, And Boieng T-9. It's interesting to see your results. Thank you for posting!
Very informative. I've always used an old container of Johnson's traffic wax to protect carbon knives and the cast iron table on my table saw. For my Gransfors Bruks and other axes I've used a mix of oil and bees wax. This mix is sometimes used on leather sheaths I make. I'll have to give 3 in 1 oil a try.
You don't think four entries being ren/rem will be confusing? Renaissance, remington. Takes a split second to say the whole thing, and removes all confusion.
Why are they sacrificed? They can be recovered with a light surface grind, given they are blanks and have yet to be ground to final blade dimensions ( since they have no blade bevel ATM...)
self made, i've seen vids that do pretty much the same test, and they use everything from frog lube to whale oil! but no 3&1 oil, and after watching those vids and a 3&1 oil user myself! i think 3&1 is the way to go, 3&1 and wd40 is the sane company, and they now have a 3&1 thats supposed to last even longer! thanks for verifying all these years of using 3&1 wasn't a waste of time, and very little money, great vid
Thanks. Nothing was wasted, they just get a trip through the surface grinder and they're good as new. I'm usually really frugal with blade steel, so I don't have much scrap.
excellent test. you are far from an amateur my friend. i think if you had done the 3 in 1 on the blued and acid dipped it would have been better than the ren and rem. anyways- thanks for the vid. very surprising and informative. as of now, im sold on the 3 in 1.
i am a machinist and your results were exactly what i expected them to be. it's almost as if the things MEANT to protect against corrosion (3-1/light machine oil) actually do it lol.. anyways, what bluing does is it converts a small amount of the metal into a porous magnetite, and in of itself is not very great, but it is porous, so it holds the oil that DOES protect very well. it requires re-oiling, though, and (cold blue as opposed to hot blue) does not hold up very well to wear. you made a good call with the cold blue and machine oil. this is a classic case of people just hearing stuff word of mouth, having their biases, etc... people like ren wax because it's expensive, and since it's expensive of course it works the best, right? even though they're using it for something it was never intended to be used for? there's no secret magic to it.
Funny how nobody uses 100% RAW COLD pressed linseed oil. The raw cold pressed has a moleculesize of only 0,000005mm (BLO has considerable bigger molecules of 0,0001mm). It penetrates into the metal and here in Norway we use it on cars, agricultural machines etc. It's the best I know of for knives and axes etc too. It would be interesting to see a test between this and you 3in1 oil😉
Doesn't cold-pressed linseed oil remain sticky, as compared to boiled linseed oil? I thought that was the reason to avoid the raw linseed oil as treatment to protect wooden tool handles. It's aggravatingly sticky, and remains so
+Ozni Wellman You're sort of right, but wouldn't you agree that blued/oxide finishes help prevent corrosion? By applying oil to that finish, it improves the resistance even more. So, logically thinking, wouldn't applying a better oil to that finish would improve it more? I wish I had used the 3n1 instead of the RemOil, but I assumed I started with the better oil. If I do another test, I'll be sure to include that combo.
Thanks for "your " 1,000 + ways and you tried to learn and show results that fair play and I've just finished acid etching and the gun blue and going to find a hot bluing system that should be even better protection.
Lanolin. Pure lanolin. Don’t listen to the detractors. Yes, it’s goopy, but a thin layer works wonders, and when you want to clean it off, just wipe it off with a dry, cotton rag. Excellent corrosion resistance, non-toxic, clings to metal far better than mineral oil, won’t go rancid. The only legitimate downside is that some people are allergic to lanolin. If you are, don’t use it.
Interesting results, I would never have thought that the waxes would perform so poorly. THe WD-40 was a surprise too as I've had bad luck in personal experience as a rust inhibitor. On thing that might be worth trying out is on a polished surface finish. I have a suspicion the oils wouldn't do as well. Also another cheap oil that I've found works well on things like shovels and files is compressor oil.
I have a project knife coming up, and my treatment will be acid etched with a heated soak in T-9. We used that stuff in the Navy, and now in my bike shop. I'm always impressed with it's results, and I hope that the heated metal will open up the "pores" like a Frog Lube process to better penetrate and stick around. Thanks for the information.
I knew I liked 3n1 for a reason. imagine how well a blued or acid would be protected using 3n1 also. That was a pretty good test, I'm a little disappointed you didn't test extra virgin olive oil because that's what most use when they have high carbon skinners or kitchen knives, but all in all good video.
mineral oil is the only edible example there, keep that in mind. good for those knives used on food. IT only takes a few drops of rem oil to kill you, keep that in mind when thinking it isn't that risky in small amounts.
Just about the most carefully done test I've seen on youtube. This is something I'd trust the results of.
What a fantastic test. Very informative and helpful. Greatly appreciated. Time to "step back" and start working with "3 in 1" for my knife projects again. Thank you.
This has to be the best 1085hc rust test on RUclips thanks for putting this together I was seriously shocked to see the results
Me too! Thanks.
I'm a huge gun nut, and I've always used rem oil on my blades. Just got a bonus at work and bought the tomahawk I've wanted for several years, and I wanted to know the best possible way to maintain it. This video showed me how wrong I was. Just goes to show, no matter how much you think you know, you can always be shown up. This is quality content.
Man this is a fantastic test. I'm completely amazed about the 3 in 1 oil. Great video, and great job doing your best to keep the conditions even. Thank you sir.
+Walter White Knives Thanks!
Great test man. very detailed. very professional. Ive made knives for 13 years, and I just learned more about these products in 20mins then in years. thanks so much for putting this together!
+Jeff Davidson Thanks for the kind words, hope it helps a little.
Great test. I have been using 3in1 myself, only because I had it around and wanted to protect my blades. I read different complaints from people claiming their knives were rusting fast (Not sure what they were using, but not 3in1)...but I've never had a problem and NOW I know why thanks to you! All the best!
I am never using rem oil again. Thank you for this video. Every knife and gun enthusiasts should see these result!
Great video! I always use 3 in 1 oil for my knives. What you have shown here really supports how well it works! Thanks for sharing your findings:)
Brother you are an answered prayer! I just finished my first large survival/bushcraft knife and I blued it only to find some slight surface rust in two days! I will now re=blue and oil with 3in1. You ROCK and you have a new sub my brother! - Donny
I rewatch this video from time to time because it shows the comparison so well! Love this video!
Thanks for taking the time to do this- very scientific and professional.
Six years later and I’ve just found this. Thanks a lot for doing this experiment. What I’m getting out of it is bluing with 3-in-1 oil would be the best treatment and cost effective given what you have. I’m not as surprised at the bluing as I am the 3-in-1 oil.
I’ve never found RemOil to be good at much. This just confirms it.
Does rem oil suck? That's a bummer. I use rem oil on all my guns and knives
I know this is a old vid but my buddy told me you don't want to use 1095 because it rust really bad. Well I'm sending him this vid and at coffee tomorrow we will have a good discussion. I love when people like you spend so much time to give us lazy people a quality vid with unsurpassed information. thank you so much
Thanks for checking it out. 1095, 1080, O1, etc. all rust and all are very popular knife steels. About half of what I make is carbon steel and I have a lot of customers that specifically ask for it. Just takes a little more maintenance.
Ive had an esee 4 for a year and my dpx hest for 5 months and haven't had to much rust problems. Mind you, they are both coated (mines worn through the coating) but other then the honing oil I use, I dont really put any oils or anything extra unless I use the knife in the rain or put it on the shelf when I get a new one -yay!- Even if it does rust its usually nothing a quick stone or stropping won't fix. Sure, 1095 rusts, but only with neglect. Take this test for instance, they spent 21 days outside in the open. So just try not to leave it on the deck or lose it in the bush..
Very interesting and terrifically kindly that you share the results of your exhaustive test so that we don't have to bother. Thank you.
As someone who evaluates experiments as part of their living, this was well done indeed. Especially the control and the common environment. I have found that rust bluing holds up better than a cold blue, but you certainly seem to have it down. I will be buying more 3 in 1 oil.
Thanks!
I also want to mention that I use 3in1 for all maintenance of any tool I own. I'm in the weather year round in my job, and rain will tighten up any one of my tools up in a solid day. easily. I use a lot of pliers and crimpers with metal hinges.Typically, outside of the occasional reapply after a rain shower, I only have to apply the oil maybe twice a year. I wished I had a video of it, but I've got a pair of old channel locks I soaked in oil for about a week to break it's seize. They're one of my better pairs of pliers. WD-40 is meant for a temporary application until a better alternative is available. It's only a bandaid placed on a gunshot wound, if you will. Be safe out there fellers.
Wow, a lot of work went into that. Thank you for taking the time to document it for us.
This is the kind of thing there should be more of on youtube, great work!
It's really good of you to sacrifice blanks so we can learn. I've had issues with rust on o1 tool steel knives. Thanks again. 👍
O1 and 1095 are the worst! I like both steels a lot, but you've got to stay on top of them.
@Self Made, Great job! I have always been told by my grandfather and my father, 3in1, Unless your going to use it for food.
Then use mineral oil after every use.
just got some 1095 in today to start making knives...very informative thank you....my dad and I have always used 3in1 since I can remember and has always done the trick I just didn't know it was this darn good...thanks man!!
Good luck! It's a fun hobby, easy to to get hooked.
Wow just the video i needed to see man thank you for taking the time to do this makes a difference
FANTASTIC VIDEO SIR! This taught me so much on how to care for all 100+ knives I own! I have many in 1095 & enjoy stripping coatings (except on ESEE). So, I guess I "blue" the blades then soak them in 3 in 1 oil overnight, then wipe off?
I'm really impressed man. Thank you very much for making this video. Thorough & explanatory! God Bless.
Well, I finally found a video I can point people at. All I ever hear from arm chair bush crafters is that 1095 will rust up. I've been using em in some of the dampest environments possible, hell I have an ESEE that goes on my kayak when I go fishing. All I did was remove what was left of their finish, force an acid patina, then oil with food safe mineral oil. A little upkeep goes a long way.
Exactly, upkeep is the key. I use a lot of 1095 and its fine if you take care of it.
Just wanted to say thank you for doing this experiment and sharing it. Your time and effort are really appreciated, by me at least.
Great test thank you for sharing
A
An excellent corrosion test. I remember reading online that food grade grease was excellent for corrosion protection on knives.
Do the same test with blued and 3 in 1 oil please
Thank you so much for doing this test. I’m just getting into knife making and didn’t know the best way to protect the steel. You spent a lot of time and money for many other people’s benefit. I learned a lot! Thank you again.
Weird how A 2 year old video is appearing in many people's RUclips feeds recently. Anyway, great video. Very interesting. I was rooting for mineral oil, because it's food safe, but I was still happy that good ol' 3 in 1 was the winner!
Hey, old videos need some lovin too! Thanks for checking it out.
Here in 2024 and this is a great comparison test. Thank you. 3-n1 for the win for sure. However, product formulas change over time so I wonder if there would be a differences today with these same products. Anyway, I'll be picking up some 3-n-1 for my blades.
Great video, i will definitely be using 3in1 on my damascus steel knives . Just goes to show you that expensive doesnt mean better. Good ole 3in1 , cheap , readily available. Just reassuring the " if it ain't broke dont fix it" saying. Thanks.
Thank you for this test. You put a ton of time and resources into it and again I offer my thanks.
Very interesting! Thanks for the time you took and common sense approach. Love it.
Thanks for checking it out! I've been a subscriber of your channel for a long time, love your stuff.
I am honored, buddy!
Excellent test, excellent information for new to advanced makers. Thanks for putting your time and efforts into this video.
Thats a pretty good scientific test.
I viewed this vid about a year ago, and I pass it on to people I know whom work with metal or tools in some way ... my grandad used 3 in 1 and so did I growing up on rifles, knives etc.
I had no idea it was the BEST choice .... great tests
Thanks, I knew it was ok, but I too was a little surprised how well it did.
Great test! I wonder what blued and ferric chloride with 3 in 1 oil would look like. You made me a believer in 3 in1!
Thank you so much for doing this test!
I'm sure, a fella could spend hours upon hours and truckloads of material testing every method out there, but what you have done is great!
Thanks!
thanks for all of your hard work
Tips I have learned from my years of having carbon steel knives.
When I clean them, after washing with soap & water, rinse with water, THEN rinse with rubbing alcohol.
I then warm the blade to about 100-120F in my oven, and when I pull them out I apply Birchwood's Super Blue. Rinse. Repeat.
I then warm the blade again to about 100-120F in my oven, and pull it out and either apply 3-in-1 oil -OR- coconut oil to the blade. I allow that to dry. Then warm it up a 2nd time and reapply the oil.
So far I have had very little rust EVER touch any of my carbon steel blades. And this process is cheap and easy.
Thank you for your testing and video, confirming a lot of what I knew to be true.
+Roy Fernbach Thanks. Be careful warming them up though, some handle material may move at 120 deg. Regular maintenance is the key.
I usually make my own handles so I am doing this when the handles are off etc. Thanks for the warning tho...
Lonewolf6565. For some reason I can't reply to your comment normally, so.... The point of doing rust testing on "in the white" blanks is that I wanted them to be as identical of a surface as possible. Not sure what you mean by "without a finish"? I sell blades without a finish all the time. If you mean hand sanding finish, well, I also sell blades with a media blast finish too. I was just trying to find a way to make a fair test. I didn't think I could get the exact same hand sanded or buffed finish on 10 blanks. And, not sound mean, but you do not know what you're talking about on leather sheath keeping moisture away from a blade. Just the opposite it true! Leather absorbs moisture, even just from the air in your home. Thanks for you comment, I'm open to everyone's opinion and I know I'm not an expert.
Self Made Agreed,... its not so much about the finish per say but more about a comparison of products that can be used to prevent rust and how they perform on basic finishes and yes I too sell blades all the time without a finish. On carbon blades I would send them out the door with a light film of 30wt motor oil, might hafta switch to 3 in 1 now in light of your test,..thanks!
Just read his comment, he isn't very knowledgeable on production knifes. There are far more bead blasted and polished knives made and sold that blue. The whole reason the knife community talks about patinas on carbon knives is due to lack of finishes used on knifes. Mainly due to wear on finishes during use. How many knives would get sent back under warranty for finish wear if all knives where blued?
+Self Made i think we all knew Wd40 was going to do good i mean its name it literally water displacement formula 40 and i knew 3 in 1 was going to do good just didn't think it was going to be better than WD40 i call this test time well spent
+VK70001.P , I'm unsurprised by the success of the 3 in 1 oil as it's manufactured by the same company as wd-40.
Darryl Machtmes honestly i should have known 3 in1 was going to do better its what i use to clean all my guns
I am really happy that somebody is doing a real test on the carbon steel blade coatings. I have some experience in the marine industry and what i have used on carbon steel exposed to sea water is Mobil 1 EP2 grease. This is a water proof grease that does not wash away and it has excellent rust protection and lubrication . Unfortunately the grease is toxic and cannot be used on a knife blade because knife is commonly used for cutting food. If the knife is never used for food then any marine grade water proof synthetic grease will be an excellent choice for rust prevention and protection.
WD40 is a good cleaning and lubricating product. WD stands for water displacement, the down side of WD40 is the lubricant evaporates away pretty quickly leaving the surface unprotected. The 3-in-1 is a good solid lubricating oil. When I clean my guns and knives I always clean with WD40, then wipe everything down and lube with 3-in-1. I've done this since I was a child and my grandfather showed me how to clean guns.
Fact is, it doesn't matter what base metal or coating you have on your blade or gun, if you don't periodically take them out and give them a good wipe and clean they will corrode.
Good video.
AFAIK a standard WD-40 does not contain any lubricating substance.
Ken Parnell I also heard WD-40 leaves no protection behind. Thanks for the info on what WD stands for. That's the main thing I use it for along with wash down. 3-in-1 is spindle oil with citronella for scent. I'm trying WD-40 gel but it's very messy and expensive. Maybe best used lightly.
This test is as close to scientific as possible. With people did more tests thr way you this test is done. Best wishes
Self Made, you should try a test (without duplicating the whole procedure) with FrogLube. Primarily a firearm lubricant. I've watched many corrosion proofing vids with over 100 products. FrogLube is always in position 1-4 for corrosion resistance. Has HUGE added advantage for cutlery in that it's a food grade product. It's what I use on all my firearms and carbon blades.
Just food for thought.
+yoda mo Frog Lube is my list to try if I make a part 2, a lot of guys have recommended it.
My first knife was given to me by my grandfather, an old farmer, fisherman, Christian and one hell of a drunk. he's given most of those hobbies up by now. Lol.He swore on 3in1 brand oil for conditioning and maintaining a knife. That man hung the moon for me back then. so I've never even considered another repellant for my knives. With that being said; he also said that a knife that is well used, and well made, will always "rust". I'm not talking about the dirty brown stuff displayed in your test. I'm talking about a 'cured' layer of family history on the metal. like it just came out of a blanket of coal dust. most of my old knives eventually ended up having that layer of black on them. But I still pull them out and rub a little oil on them for storage. I enjoyed your video sir. thank you.
Thanks for watching. I too like the look of an old patina'd blade. We've got some kitchen knives that are probably 30 years old and I love that look.
Great real world testing! I am so tired of keyboard warriors with their theories, your experiment settles any argument. Great video.
Thanks, but I'm sure it doesn't settle it for everyone. It sure gave me the info I needed for my own personal opinion.
@@npgatech7 thanks for your comment, of course, I agree!
I'm not a knife maker, however, this video is a nice guidance for maintaining my knives. Awesome video, thanks.
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you. I've been using WD and 3n1 on my guns since I was born. Millennial gun guys call that fudd behavior . Shows what they know. It was good enough for dad and grandpa, so its good enough for me.
Me too, those two were always present when I was growing up. Still are around my place, thanks.
Wow! I am impressed... Been using 3 in1 for years because of the price and had no idea it was that much better than anything other oil based product. Guess that explains why I never had an issue... Thanks a lot!!!
I wonder if the results would have been different if you used a heat gun and heated each blade and then applied the oil or wax due to the metal allowing the oil to penetrate and flow better.
Great test thank very much for the effort. I'm new to knife making so comparisons like this help on so many levels. Cheers again
Dude was like, screw internet speculation. THIS is what ACTUALLY happens.
Awesome job! This is extremely helpful, there has been a lot of talk about the best way to treat knives online and this definitely shows real world results. I'm surprised, but now I know how to send out my knives with confidence. Thank you!
Thanks, hope it helps.
Thanks!
you proved my father rite he was a machinest for 30 years and swor by 3-n-1 oil to keep his tools rust free and moving parts moving.
Hey, cool! Pretty good stuff, thanks.
I've done a similar test (although using steel wool) using timelapse photography and have done research on others who have done the same and it always turns out that the oils don't do too well but solutions that double as rust preventatives and removers do well, like WD40, Breakfree CLP, And Boieng T-9. It's interesting to see your results. Thank you for posting!
Awesome experiment! Thank you
Thanks!
Very informative. I've always used an old container of Johnson's traffic wax to protect carbon knives and the cast iron table on my table saw. For my Gransfors Bruks and other axes I've used a mix of oil and bees wax. This mix is sometimes used on leather sheaths I make. I'll have to give 3 in 1 oil a try.
You don't think four entries being ren/rem will be confusing? Renaissance, remington. Takes a split second to say the whole thing, and removes all confusion.
Your comment is confusing.
Wow. I am cold blueing a gun right now and was protecting with 3 and 1. I just had a feeling. Nice to see I chose correctly.
Awesome test man! Thank you for sacrificing 11 blades for this test.May they rust in peace.
Why are they sacrificed? They can be recovered with a light surface grind, given they are blanks and have yet to be ground to final blade dimensions ( since they have no blade bevel ATM...)
This was a really great test.
i think this is how a test have to be
Thanks for the video
atb
steve
self made, i've seen vids that do pretty much the same test, and they use everything from frog lube to whale oil! but no 3&1 oil, and after watching those vids and a 3&1 oil user myself! i think 3&1 is the way to go, 3&1 and wd40 is the sane company, and they now have a 3&1 thats supposed to last even longer! thanks for verifying all these years of using 3&1 wasn't a waste of time, and very little money, great vid
WD-40 Gel
You consider yourself to be an amutare but this is a high quality test. Good information.
Thanks!
Great comparison video! Really appreciate the time, effort and money you've invested in this vid!
Thanks bud!
Shame to see those blanks go to waste, but thanks for doing this! If you do future tests, I would use smaller blanks for testing
Thanks. Nothing was wasted, they just get a trip through the surface grinder and they're good as new. I'm usually really frugal with blade steel, so I don't have much scrap.
Damn good test, I don't think this could have been done any better very controlled very informative. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks for checking it out.
Now that is a test! Well done and thank you for the very well done comparison!
Blued + 3in1 ftw!
Very interesting and thorough test for these products. Thanks for posting.
excellent test. you are far from an amateur my friend. i think if you had done the 3 in 1 on the blued and acid dipped it would have been better than the ren and rem. anyways- thanks for the vid. very surprising and informative. as of now, im sold on the 3 in 1.
Thanks for checking it out!
i am a machinist and your results were exactly what i expected them to be. it's almost as if the things MEANT to protect against corrosion (3-1/light machine oil) actually do it lol.. anyways, what bluing does is it converts a small amount of the metal into a porous magnetite, and in of itself is not very great, but it is porous, so it holds the oil that DOES protect very well. it requires re-oiling, though, and (cold blue as opposed to hot blue) does not hold up very well to wear. you made a good call with the cold blue and machine oil.
this is a classic case of people just hearing stuff word of mouth, having their biases, etc... people like ren wax because it's expensive, and since it's expensive of course it works the best, right? even though they're using it for something it was never intended to be used for? there's no secret magic to it.
Well said! Thanks for checking it out.
Funny how nobody uses 100% RAW COLD pressed linseed oil. The raw cold pressed has a moleculesize of only 0,000005mm (BLO has considerable bigger molecules of 0,0001mm). It penetrates into the metal and here in Norway we use it on cars, agricultural machines etc. It's the best I know of for knives and axes etc too.
It would be interesting to see a test between this and you 3in1 oil😉
Hey, sounds like cool idea. I've never really seen anybody use it here really. Blacksmith work sometimes gets coated with it while hot.
Doesn't cold-pressed linseed oil remain sticky, as compared to boiled linseed oil? I thought that was the reason to avoid the raw linseed oil as treatment to protect wooden tool handles. It's aggravatingly sticky, and remains so
I really like the 3 in one test. I'm pretty convinced. Good test.
You have convinced thousands to buy 3 in 1
+Ozni Wellman You're sort of right, but wouldn't you agree that blued/oxide finishes help prevent corrosion? By applying oil to that finish, it improves the resistance even more. So, logically thinking, wouldn't applying a better oil to that finish would improve it more? I wish I had used the 3n1 instead of the RemOil, but I assumed I started with the better oil. If I do another test, I'll be sure to include that combo.
Thanks for "your "
1,000 + ways and you tried to learn and show results that fair play and I've just finished acid etching and the gun blue and going to find a hot bluing system that should be even better protection.
Try corrosion X. My fishing gear gets soaked in salt spray n minimal corrosion after a few days
Thanks, I've heard of it, but never had any. I'll add that to my list of things to try.
Corrosion X is the best rust protection I have found. I use it on all my guns.
Fair play for taking the time to do this test and sharing!👏👏
Beeswax on all my carbon steel, works great
Excellent test and I like the way you gave every treatment a 100% fair chance. I'm amazed at the 3-in-1 oil, going to have to get a bottle of that.
None of those are food safe, I use bees wax and kpl knife shield but mineral oil also works
The first knife was with mineral oil..come on man....lol
@@bigiron5508 I know that's why I mentioned mineral oil, but the rest aren't
An intelligent experiment, same metal of same production in the elements with applied different treatments...effective.
It is hilarious to me that people use all this expensive or "purpose made" stuff, and 3-in-one oil is the best out of everything.
It's obvious you spent a lot of thought into this test, well done, I'm going to use 3 in 1
I believe in WD-40 for multiple purposes.
Me too, I use it for a lot of things. Pretty handy.
3 n 1 it is then. Can't beat that price. Thanks for taking the time and effort for this test.
Peace
Lanolin. Pure lanolin. Don’t listen to the detractors. Yes, it’s goopy, but a thin layer works wonders, and when you want to clean it off, just wipe it off with a dry, cotton rag. Excellent corrosion resistance, non-toxic, clings to metal far better than mineral oil, won’t go rancid. The only legitimate downside is that some people are allergic to lanolin. If you are, don’t use it.
Man i love your videos you are the most honest reviewer i ever seen, thank you so much for your efforts ❤
I'll add 3&1 oil to my blued knives.
Eezox. Hands down from what I've seen is second to none. Good VIDEO!
But how about knives for food?
For food use Stainless steel
Than you for this great video! A lot of work went into it, we all appreciate it.
this video is outstanding.
Thanks!
Interesting results, I would never have thought that the waxes would perform so poorly. THe WD-40 was a surprise too as I've had bad luck in personal experience as a rust inhibitor. On thing that might be worth trying out is on a polished surface finish. I have a suspicion the oils wouldn't do as well. Also another cheap oil that I've found works well on things like shovels and files is compressor oil.
My trick is to keep my knives dry. haha
I have a project knife coming up, and my treatment will be acid etched with a heated soak in T-9. We used that stuff in the Navy, and now in my bike shop. I'm always impressed with it's results, and I hope that the heated metal will open up the "pores" like a Frog Lube process to better penetrate and stick around. Thanks for the information.
+BornFree I was in the Marine Corps, but I don't remember anything called T9, I'll check it out and add it to my list of future possibilities.
Good old 3 in 1
it's unavailable in the netherlands :'(
I knew I liked 3n1 for a reason. imagine how well a blued or acid would be protected using 3n1 also. That was a pretty good test, I'm a little disappointed you didn't test extra virgin olive oil because that's what most use when they have high carbon skinners or kitchen knives, but all in all good video.
mineral oil is the only edible example there, keep that in mind. good for those knives used on food. IT only takes a few drops of rem oil to kill you, keep that in mind when thinking it isn't that risky in small amounts.
How ofter would i re-oil my knife if im using mineral oil sir just asking...😊
I think the Mother's carnuba wax is edible unless they've added something else to it. They use carnuba on M&Ms and Skittles coatings.