Sir ever since I discovered your channel 2 weeks ago I have been a Pushing Plastic maniac viewer. I have followed your instructions on my machine with mostly positive results. keep up the good work. can't subscribe right now as this is my cousin's comp. will do so when on my own. your step by step of PID calibration of the hot end/heated bed took away any trepidation I had about tuning them. thankyou.
This is next on my hit list!! Im a bit of a sucker for trying to print the best quality possible. All this is great info and superb help!! Just a small suggestion, It may be worth breaking these videos down for future viewers to watch in Modules, like introduction/get started/next steps/ tweaking for performance or what ever you may choose :) Keep up the great work!!!
That’s what I like to hear! If just one person picks up something from these videos, it makes it worth the effort! Keep on printing! Thanks for watching!
What version of Marlin is this on? I think in 2.x.x the bed is M303 EBED and not E-1. I kept trying the M303 E-1 S50 C8 and was getting "PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id" but it seemed to work just fine with EBED. Great video though! Was clear and easy to follow.
This is done on a bone--stock Ender 3 as shipped from Creality. Creality has their own version of firmware. But not all versions of firmware has the ability to PID tune the heated bed enabled.
You'll find mixed answers to this on the internet. I feel that it's best to run this at the temperature that you print at, so if you don't typically use your fans while printing, I would do it with the fans off. If at some point you find yourself printing more often with the fans on, then rerun the process with the fans on. It only takes a few minutes and is worth it! Thanks for watching!
Sir ever since I discovered your channel 2 weeks ago I have been a Pushing Plastic maniac viewer. I have followed your instructions on my machine with mostly positive results. keep up the good work. can't subscribe right now as this is my cousin's comp. will do so when on my own. your step by step of PID calibration of the hot end/heated bed took away any trepidation I had about tuning them. thankyou.
I'm going to do this tomorrow. Thank you for your knowledge 👍. Will subscribe.
I hope it helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. 3 videos in and I'm a fan, subscribed without any question.
Awesome! Glad to hear it and thank you for struggling through the poor audio. It gets better!
This is next on my hit list!! Im a bit of a sucker for trying to print the best quality possible. All this is great info and superb help!! Just a small suggestion, It may be worth breaking these videos down for future viewers to watch in Modules, like introduction/get started/next steps/ tweaking for performance or what ever you may choose :) Keep up the great work!!!
I keep learning from you 👍
That’s what I like to hear! If just one person picks up something from these videos, it makes it worth the effort! Keep on printing! Thanks for watching!
What version of Marlin is this on? I think in 2.x.x the bed is M303 EBED and not E-1. I kept trying the M303 E-1 S50 C8 and was getting "PID Autotune failed! Bad heater id" but it seemed to work just fine with EBED. Great video though! Was clear and easy to follow.
This is done on a bone--stock Ender 3 as shipped from Creality. Creality has their own version of firmware. But not all versions of firmware has the ability to PID tune the heated bed enabled.
Good information and how you presented it. Thank you.
Great topic, thanks
So if I'm printing with PETG and typically do not use my cooling fans, I would do this with the fans off?
You'll find mixed answers to this on the internet. I feel that it's best to run this at the temperature that you print at, so if you don't typically use your fans while printing, I would do it with the fans off. If at some point you find yourself printing more often with the fans on, then rerun the process with the fans on. It only takes a few minutes and is worth it! Thanks for watching!