Hi Ade, I just drilled two holes through the compound just past where I normally run. I then printed two plugs to keep the swarf out. Make it much easier to get to. I like your solid tool-post idea as I think this is the way to go. Thank you for all the videos.
Haha! I loved the outtakes Ade - it's great to be learning while enjoying a light hearted moment or two as well. Thanks as ever for all your time and effort putting these together.
Hi Ade, Have seen videos on this problem some drill from the top to pass the key down, but your way is the best, if the brass pads fail eventually it would be easy to change,look forward to part 2 thanks.
Ade their are a couple of vids on this subject altering the compound slide, these were dead simple way of doing it. They simply drilled 2 holes down through the top of the compound that lined up with the 2 stock bolts that go into the swiveling plate. I think they were something like 8mm hole so you just insert the allen key in through the 8mm holes into the cap head bolts. To stop metal shavings getting in down these holes a couple of removable plugs are put in the holes.
G’day Ade, I was referred back to this series by you in the future. I was impressed with the alternative method others had mentioned by drilling two holes through the top, simple I thought until I checked my lathe, those two screws are positioned directly through the dove tails on both sides of my slide, hence I would have to cut the gib in two, so that idea is out and I’m back to your method. And I was always of the impression that all Chinese mini lathes were all the same. Cheers Peter
Hi Ade, quick question. I notice that with the gibs on the side of the compound, you have a Alan bolt to make the adjustment, and then a nut to secure it. Is there any reason why you couldn't just get rid of the nuts and secure the Alan bolt with some locktite? So it would behave like one of those nuts with the blue plastic inside? so you can still make fine adjustments, but it won't come loose? ..making adjusting the gibs so much more easier?
Hi ade have been thinking of a similar mod to my seig C2 lethe . But unsure how to go about it your video looks very interesting and are easy to follow can't wait to see the rest. Thanks for sharing best regards Shaun 😀 PS out takes fun to see hope you have more?? Always look forward to your videos . Once again thanks for sharing
Are you certain that one grub screw will be rigid enough? Also, if you make the center part out of a soft metal, will that not make dents which in turn will make it difficult to set another angle close to it? I have no idea myself, but this is an interesting mod which really want.
Welsh Dragon 👍 why do you live so far from me? I took apart my second hand lathe for new roller bearings and I have to put it back together and I don't know the language of the documentation in French 😢
I bought a 9x20 lathe from Chester Machine Tools to supplement my Colchester Student, thought it would be good for smaller jobs and to free up the big lathe. wish i had never seen the thing, it was rusty, fit and finish was appalling. over the months i have had to remake the compound, scrape the cross slide and ways, the tailstock was 3mm low and canted, the headstock was still full of casting sand. support has been non existent. basicly a £1200 boat anchor, many times over the months i thought of just scrapping it. well to sum it up if i hadn't had my other lathe, mill and 30 odd years of experience it would have been unusable. i pity anyone starting up that had gotten this
The quick way to fix this anoying problem: 1. Remove the compound slide from the lathe. 2. Crank it back so that the front edges are flush. 3. put it upsiede down on a drill press, and drill holes from the screw holes troug the slide out of the surface where the tool post sits. 4. deburr and mount it to the lathe. Normally this holes are covered by the tool post. To adjust compound angle just remove the tool post mostly my compound is nearly flush with its ways. Only mimimal cranking necesarry. Whole modification is done in 15 min.
Hi Ade, I just drilled two holes through the compound just past where I normally run. I then printed two plugs to keep the swarf out. Make it much easier to get to. I like your solid tool-post idea as I think this is the way to go. Thank you for all the videos.
you had far more self control than I would have when that mill cutter grabbed...loved the out takes.
Haha! I loved the outtakes Ade - it's great to be learning while enjoying a light hearted moment or two as well. Thanks as ever for all your time and effort putting these together.
Nice work Ade. Glad you decided to put a few outtakes in, made me chuckle. Cheers
Really enjoy this channel. Your a great teacher Ade. Thanks for the hard work and interesting subjects.
Hi Ade,
Have seen videos on this problem some drill from the top to pass the key down, but your way is the best, if the brass pads fail eventually it would be easy to change,look forward to part 2 thanks.
You are a great teacher Ade. Fine out takes make me laughing.
Ade their are a couple of vids on this subject altering the compound slide, these were dead simple way of doing it. They simply drilled 2 holes down through the top of the compound that lined up with the 2 stock bolts that go into the swiveling plate. I think they were something like 8mm hole so you just insert the allen key in through the 8mm holes into the cap head bolts. To stop metal shavings getting in down these holes a couple of removable plugs are put in the holes.
Just reading this now and im going to do this on mine. Thanks.
G’day Ade, I was referred back to this series by you in the future. I was impressed with the alternative method others had mentioned by drilling two holes through the top, simple I thought until I checked my lathe, those two screws are positioned directly through the dove tails on both sides of my slide, hence I would have to cut the gib in two, so that idea is out and I’m back to your method. And I was always of the impression that all Chinese mini lathes were all the same.
Cheers
Peter
Bugger. Mine is the same. I was excited about just being able to do the simple mod. Seems like the newer ones are right through the dovetail.
Hi Ade, quick question. I notice that with the gibs on the side of the compound, you have a Alan bolt to make the adjustment, and then a nut to secure it. Is there any reason why you couldn't just get rid of the nuts and secure the Alan bolt with some locktite? So it would behave like one of those nuts with the blue plastic inside? so you can still make fine adjustments, but it won't come loose? ..making adjusting the gibs so much more easier?
Spot on Ade, nice sensible mod, keep up the informative posts, thanks.
Hi ade have been thinking of a similar mod to my seig C2 lethe . But unsure how to go about it your video looks very interesting and are easy to follow can't wait to see the rest. Thanks for sharing best regards Shaun 😀 PS out takes fun to see hope you have more?? Always look forward to your videos . Once again thanks for sharing
Are you certain that one grub screw will be rigid enough? Also, if you make the center part out of a soft metal, will that not make dents which in turn will make it difficult to set another angle close to it? I have no idea myself, but this is an interesting mod which really want.
Two screws brass followers
Welsh Dragon 👍 why do you live so far from me? I took apart my second hand lathe for new roller bearings and I have to put it back together and I don't know the language of the documentation in French 😢
I have done a series on a mini late where I change the spindle bearings if that helps . Cheers Ade.
Good thinking! This problem bugs me as well.
informative as ever.
nice idea MR Gargamel.....
I had the same lathe with the same problem hope your mod works
I bought a 9x20 lathe from Chester Machine Tools to supplement my Colchester Student, thought it would be good for smaller jobs and to free up the big lathe. wish i had never seen the thing, it was rusty, fit and finish was appalling. over the months i have had to remake the compound, scrape the cross slide and ways, the tailstock was 3mm low and canted, the headstock was still full of casting sand. support has been non existent. basicly a £1200 boat anchor, many times over the months i thought of just scrapping it. well to sum it up if i hadn't had my other lathe, mill and 30 odd years of experience it would have been unusable. i pity anyone starting up that had gotten this
The quick way to fix this anoying problem: 1. Remove the compound slide from the lathe. 2. Crank it back so that the front edges are flush. 3. put it upsiede down on a drill press, and drill holes from the screw holes troug the slide out of the surface where the tool post sits. 4. deburr and mount it to the lathe.
Normally this holes are covered by the tool post. To adjust compound angle just remove the tool post mostly my compound is nearly flush with its ways. Only mimimal cranking necesarry. Whole modification is done in 15 min.