As an engineer I have lived and worked in third world countries for 50 years, the last 20 in Cambodia. I had my own well equipped workshop including a Colchester Chipmaster lathe which I purchased in UK many years ago for £400. The only modification made to it was a conversion from 3phase to 240volt. Back in UK I am looking to set up a small workshop and considered the 180. However I have been totally put off by all the modifications that appear to be needed to make the machine fit for purpose. The 180 is described as a "Hobbyist" machine, it appears to me that once purchased it becomes the hobby. I have gone for a elderly but in perfect condition Myford ML10. A machine that I can use from the word go without having to consider any modifications.
Hi Ade Nice work. I will certainly make the same change on my Warco Super mini. I've seen some other hacks to solve this problem, but this solution is by far the best I've seen to date. Thanks
Nice Job, my lathe is exactly the same design (not a warco though) and it bugs me too, how tight does it grip now its been done and used for a while Ade, any problems with it?
Ade, I note in this series of vids you discuss the slide adapter you made to fit your vertical slide. Have you done a quick vid explaining how you did this and what you did? If not would you consider making a quick vid on the subject including any changes you might make to your own plate slide combo. Cheers Tim
The plan was very well executed as usual, but I am sceptical whether this design is as strong as the original. Everything depends on those two brass plugs, but they are too short to be well supported, and their ends only make line contact with the cone.
take it that the Warco is another make of import and seems quite good fit and finish, i noticed it had way wipers and the quality of controls is far superior to that fitted as standard to mine. there seems to be a vast difference in basically the same lathe from different importers. as i said before my 9x20 from chester machine tools was chronic but the same lathe from precision matthews is a nice bit of kit, looking back i should have researched the importers before parting with my hard earned cash
Well done Ade. You now have the same tried and trusted set up that is on my Boxford lathe. Makes you wonder why these Chinese made lathes are produced with that horrible clamping system.
Small Chinese lathes are pretty good for the price. But if they had most of the improvements you see done, they would cost a lot more, and people wouldn’t be buying them. As the models get bigger, more of the improvements are found. So the bigger models do have the screws where you can easily get to them. If you want those features, buy a bigger model. But, back then, Boxford was the cheap, not considered to be particularly great, lathe. Even so, it was expensive for home shops. Today, it would cost several thousand pounds, new, if it were being made the same way. Not very comparable.
Ade, find a suitable car scissor screw jack and put it under the drill press table, just finger tight and no more drill table flex! Nice compound slide mod i like it
That's a great idea. Uses a similar way of clamping that an Atlas lathe uses. I wonder if there is enough room to do the same mod to my 7x14 mini lathe. Your compound seems a lot beefier, though. If possible to do, I have a bit of an advantage of my old South Bend in the corner to do the boring on.
Ade, where did you get the Allen Keys I see in your videos? I have a Ferm lathe (Dutch made, 1960s'-70s') which is very similar in construction to the Warco brand.... I should do this mod.... Paddy
Hi Ades, It's nice series of video and works. Thanks for sharing to us. I wonder if the mod introduces additional chatter due to possible weaker (than the original locking method) locking force of the setscrew and brass stud applying on the added disk. Do you see any chatter after the mod?
The screws coming in from the sides is the only thing I disagree with. As we saw, there was a small, but noticeable amount of play between the slide and the rotating piece fitting inside. Normally, that’s a close sliding fit, with virtually no play. But in order to make certain it’s always solid when the screws are tightened, they are at a 120 degree angle. That way they push the slide up against the round dovetail inside. That gives the normal three point contact. But having the screws at 180 degrees, the only thing it’s guaranteed to be against are those two screws, allowing the compound to either pop to the front, or to the rear. It’s just a two point contact, which is why it will slip either way.
I realise it's a bit late too make comments on this because it's finished, but have you given any thought to how you would take it apart if needs be? I imagine those brass plugs will be a devil to get out so you can lift the slide off.
Great upgrade Ade, good series & well done. Nice when it all comes together. What's your thoughts on brazing the brass onto the grub screws then turning them down at 30 degrees? Save all that messing about locating them.
Dave the full bevel gives a lot more wedging force than a pointed screw. On the lathes were this method was used from the factory, the wedges are steel with a screw pushing them in to lock the compound in place. Installing with a dab of grease on the wedges makes orienting the wedges easy.
I made fitting the wedges look more difficult than it was, I agree with Aceroadholder that tapered brass points will not grip the taper as efficiently as the wedge design . good luck . ade.
Hi Adrian. Great upgrade. The brass plungers are a bit short/fiddly, due I suspect to the limited amount of material between the edge and the insert. Can you see any problems with, instead of drilling in at a right angle to the slide, angling the holes at say 30 or 45 degrees? This would allow the brass plungers to be longer, which would also make them less likely to deflect. Cheers Noel
That would help . but it really was not a problem , i just made it look difficult with my clumsy approach. If i were to do it again , i would make the plug in one piece with a much smaller diameter taper , giving a smaller hole in the underside of the compound and allowing longer plugs . Cheers Ade,
Cast iron is self lubricated because of the many graphite flakes present (which is what makes it cast iron). No coolant is needed, or in most cases, desired. It just causes the chips and powder you get from machining cast iron, to stick to the metal and become difficult to remove.
@@melgross I do agree with what you say. I just use cutting fluid on almost everything. Then wash the machinery with break cleaner and re-oil, more work since I do machine shop as a hobby to keep me out of trouble.
@@mr16ga trouble? That’s what this is all about. Like my wife coming to my shop at 3:00am and wondering why I’m not in bed. Or what those half a dozen packages are for.
![Yeat & Quavo - 5BRAZY [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4XxnTAwyxus/mqdefault.jpg)
As an engineer I have lived and worked in third world countries for 50 years, the last 20 in Cambodia. I had my own well equipped workshop including a Colchester Chipmaster lathe which I purchased in UK many years ago for £400. The only modification made to it was a conversion from 3phase to 240volt.
Back in UK I am looking to set up a small workshop and considered the 180. However I have been totally put off by all the modifications that appear to be needed to make the machine fit for purpose. The 180 is described as a "Hobbyist" machine, it appears to me that once purchased it becomes the hobby.
I have gone for a elderly but in perfect condition Myford ML10. A machine that I can use from the word go without having to consider any modifications.
“I have a cunning plan Baldrick” gotta love a cunning plan😁
Nice work, thanks.
Raymond
we have got to love blackadder. cheers Ade.
Did anyone ever tell you that your a genius? Working on the fly like that is impressive. And what a brilliant time saving modification. Cheers Adrian.
This channel just gets better and better.
Nice work Ade....well done buddy👍👍👍
Hi Ade
Nice work. I will certainly make the same change on my Warco Super mini. I've seen some other hacks to solve this problem, but this solution is by far the best I've seen to date.
Thanks
like your use of the lathe for milling, good to see other ways to accomplish the task
I enjoy the projects that improve tools. well done and keep it up.
Hi Ade. I’ve been working with cast iron lately also. Really makes a mess. Great video.
Love your vids! Please tell me about the vise setup you have when you disassemble your compound slide?
Great upgrade. Now that is finished it looked better than the other one I spoke about.
Love your work and great series. What's next?
Barry
Australia
Nice Job, my lathe is exactly the same design (not a warco though) and it bugs me too, how tight does it grip now its been done and used for a while Ade, any problems with it?
excellent video Ade look forward to seeing more, all the best
Ade,
I note in this series of vids you discuss the slide adapter you made to fit your vertical slide. Have you done a quick vid explaining how you did this and what you did? If not would you consider making a quick vid on the subject including any changes you might make to your own plate slide combo.
Cheers
Tim
Hi, Tim . i just put up a video Shed talk 11 that goes into detail on the milling slide set up . hope it helps Ade.
The plan was very well executed as usual, but I am sceptical whether this design is as strong as the original. Everything depends on those two brass plugs, but they are too short to be well supported, and their ends only make line contact with the cone.
Felicitaciones Ades...Feliz Año nuevo para Ud. y familia!!!!
Next job looks to be firming up that table on the drill press.
Noticed in the previous video it moves about a fair bit too.
Yes , it really flexes badly . I may well cobble something together to help with that . Cheers Ade.
take it that the Warco is another make of import and seems quite good fit and finish, i noticed it had way wipers and the quality of controls is far superior to that fitted as standard to mine. there seems to be a vast difference in basically the same lathe from different importers. as i said before my 9x20 from chester machine tools was chronic but the same lathe from precision matthews is a nice bit of kit, looking back i should have researched the importers before parting with my hard earned cash
Well done Ade. You now have the same tried and trusted set up that is on my Boxford lathe. Makes you wonder why these Chinese made lathes are produced with that horrible clamping system.
Small Chinese lathes are pretty good for the price. But if they had most of the improvements you see done, they would cost a lot more, and people wouldn’t be buying them. As the models get bigger, more of the improvements are found. So the bigger models do have the screws where you can easily get to them. If you want those features, buy a bigger model.
But, back then, Boxford was the cheap, not considered to be particularly great, lathe. Even so, it was expensive for home shops. Today, it would cost several thousand pounds, new, if it were being made the same way. Not very comparable.
Ade, find a suitable car scissor screw jack and put it under the drill press table, just finger tight and no more drill table flex! Nice compound slide mod i like it
That's a great idea. Uses a similar way of clamping that an Atlas lathe uses. I wonder if there is enough room to do the same mod to my 7x14 mini lathe. Your compound seems a lot beefier, though. If possible to do, I have a bit of an advantage of my old South Bend in the corner to do the boring on.
Ade, where did you get the Allen Keys I see in your videos?
I have a Ferm lathe (Dutch made, 1960s'-70s') which is very similar in construction to the Warco brand.... I should do this mod....
Paddy
Local hardware shop . they are on ebey also . Cheers Ade.
Nice project Ade !
I am 68 and a beginner in fact I haven't done enyting with the latge yet, too bad I don't live next door.
Ohh ...you used a hacksaw without a piece of wood as way protection, hope not Dobbelboost saw that, lol, great series enjoyed it very much 👍
Hi Ades,
It's nice series of video and works. Thanks for sharing to us. I wonder if the mod introduces additional chatter due to possible weaker (than the original locking method) locking force of the setscrew and brass stud applying on the added disk. Do you see any chatter after the mod?
The screws coming in from the sides is the only thing I disagree with. As we saw, there was a small, but noticeable amount of play between the slide and the rotating piece fitting inside. Normally, that’s a close sliding fit, with virtually no play. But in order to make certain it’s always solid when the screws are tightened, they are at a 120 degree angle. That way they push the slide up against the round dovetail inside. That gives the normal three point contact. But having the screws at 180 degrees, the only thing it’s guaranteed to be against are those two screws, allowing the compound to either pop to the front, or to the rear. It’s just a two point contact, which is why it will slip either way.
I realise it's a bit late too make comments on this because it's finished, but have you given any thought to how you would take it apart if needs be? I imagine those brass plugs will be a devil to get out so you can lift the slide off.
Great upgrade Ade, good series & well done. Nice when it all comes together. What's your thoughts on brazing the brass onto the grub screws then turning them down at 30 degrees? Save all that messing about locating them.
Dave the full bevel gives a lot more wedging force than a pointed screw. On the lathes were this method was used from the factory, the wedges are steel with a screw pushing them in to lock the compound in place. Installing with a dab of grease on the wedges makes orienting the wedges easy.
I made fitting the wedges look more difficult than it was, I agree with Aceroadholder that tapered brass points will not grip the taper as efficiently as the wedge design . good luck . ade.
ADES WORKSHOP thank you both for the reply, makes sense.
Hi Adrian. Great upgrade.
The brass plungers are a bit short/fiddly, due I suspect to the limited amount of material between the edge and the insert. Can you see any problems with, instead of drilling in at a right angle to the slide, angling the holes at say 30 or 45 degrees? This would allow the brass plungers to be longer, which would also make them less likely to deflect.
Cheers Noel
That would help . but it really was not a problem , i just made it look difficult with my clumsy approach. If i were to do it again , i would make the plug in one piece with a much smaller diameter taper , giving a smaller hole in the underside of the compound and allowing longer plugs . Cheers Ade,
Ade Where did you get the milling slide is it a warco one i have the same Lathe as you great vids keep it up regards Fred
The one i have was from RDG tools , i have modified it a bit though, Cheers Ade.
Bravo Ade! Well done :-)
What part of Wales were you from Ade? I`m from the Rhonda Clydach Vale I assume you are Welsh sorry if I`m wrong.
originally Abergavenny now long term in Pembrokeshire. Most definitely Welsh . Cheers, Ade.
Cheers ade Cymru am byth
Where did you get your milling thing from?
RDG tools . Cheers Ade.
Why no cutting oil? Even on cast Iron It keeps the cast Iron dust down.
Cast iron is self lubricated because of the many graphite flakes present (which is what makes it cast iron). No coolant is needed, or in most cases, desired. It just causes the chips and powder you get from machining cast iron, to stick to the metal and become difficult to remove.
@@melgross I do agree with what you say. I just use cutting fluid on almost everything. Then wash the machinery with break cleaner and re-oil, more work since I do machine shop as a hobby to keep me out of trouble.
@@mr16ga trouble? That’s what this is all about. Like my wife coming to my shop at 3:00am and wondering why I’m not in bed. Or what those half a dozen packages are for.
nice work
I gota get round to making a milling slide. Or something. Ho my goodness so meny thing's to do. Bit it's fun. Rite? M
The first step is the hardest , and yes , if it is not fun , don't do it , Cheers Ade.
@@ade63dug it's guna be a.lot of fun. M
Когда будете продавать станки в Россию?
i don't sell machines , i just use them .Cheers Ade.
Подскажите как и где можно купить настольный токарный станок?