This was a fantastic topic. Sure, disc brakes and engine upgrades are flashier but its great to see some stuff that some of us younger guys may have missed in our classic car education. I'll be using this to figure out why my oil pressure and temperature dummy lights in my Torino aren't working. Thanks and keep up the good work.
We covered this in Season 2. Harness goes first. Type this in the search: Harness: Episode 5 Season 2 wiring harness and dash final assembly A/C: Episode 6 Season 2 Mustang and Cougar factory Air conditioning install
I've been repairing these thermal type gauges with a solid state regulator for many years and never once had a reading issue. As a matter of course I always chuck the thermal regulator. If the solid state is wired correctly there will never be any issues with gauge reading. The pulsing isn't necessary. The way the thermal regulator works is by the points closing 40 % and open 60 % of the time. 40 % of 12 volts is 5 volts. The fact that the thermal gauges operate on heating a bimetal strip, they tolerate the pulsing if the regulator has been set properly. When the gauges start pulsing up indicates the thermal regulator is going to fail soon, though they can also fail without warning. That was the technology of the day and you're right, once the points in the regulator burn, the points remain closed and the regulator delivers straight 12 volts to the gauges and will burn all of them. That's why I always replace with a solid state regardless.
We find that generally you need to buy an equally expensive item in her color, style or hobby. Our friend now has a lovely Rooms to Go furnished dining room and bedroom as well as a starting point Camaro. Some sacrifices must be made...
Thanks for the video! Really informative! Quick question though, do you have a specific diagram or picture you can show us which shows where you're connecting the battery to on the Mustang instrument cluster please? Looking to do a similar test for my temp gauge and want to double check I've got it right. Thanks!
@@AutoRestoMod got it working! The household radiator as a ground did the trick. Managed to check the temp gauge 👍 and also try out the new led lights I installed 😁 thanks again for the help!
The RTE (Real Time Engineering) IVR is a modern solid state piece that mimics the pulsed 12v output (5v mean avg) of the OE piece. It also has way better reliability plus additional features. None of the other solid state IVR provide this and only supply a steady 5v which, yes, will certainly effect the accuracy of those thermal gauges.
When do you guys think you will be doing the under dash AC/heater parts? I have a 67 convetible mustang and I'm feeling confident about everything but that install.. the AC evap/ heatercore box and blower motor box mostly.. Do you install in this order? wiring - blower / vent box (run hoses) - ac/heater box - dash & trim pieces?
I have a 1980 C10 Silverado that's going on 40 years old, she has the original cluster with gauges, I'm having issues with the gauges not reading correctly. Is it possible that the circuit board the problem or the parts are just old, like the owner.
Hi Team. I have a 68 Mustang. My fuel, oil pressure and water temp does not work. I have change the voltage regulator on the back of the instrument panel. No change. Any recommendations? Thanks Ron
Best thing to do is get a harness diagram and do a wire trace. You can also try and ground the cluster. Get some alligator clamps and clamp one to the lower cluster screws (your cluster ground point) and the other to the screw point for the lower screw. Sometimes paint can foul the ground.
Sounds like a ground issue. We'd look into that first. It could be that a ground wire got messed up when you removed the cluster. We've done that before and not realized it.
Friends, telling to go to the junkyard get the parts,I'm asking myself those parts are just as old. I have a little money saved up but don't know where buy parts for my truck.
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This was a fantastic topic. Sure, disc brakes and engine upgrades are flashier but its great to see some stuff that some of us younger guys may have missed in our classic car education.
I'll be using this to figure out why my oil pressure and temperature dummy lights in my Torino aren't working. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I am caught up! Took two,weeks but I am now caught up. Looking forward to the next one! Love this, thank you all for doing this. Mike
Check out ceedells video on repairing the printed circuit board in the video responses, nicely done Ceedell.
We covered this in Season 2. Harness goes first. Type this in the search:
Harness: Episode 5 Season 2 wiring harness and dash final assembly
A/C: Episode 6 Season 2 Mustang and Cougar factory Air conditioning install
I've been repairing these thermal type gauges with a solid state regulator for many years
and never once had a reading issue.
As a matter of course I always chuck the thermal regulator.
If the solid state is wired correctly there will never be any issues with gauge reading.
The pulsing isn't necessary. The way the thermal regulator works is by the points closing
40 % and open 60 % of the time. 40 % of 12 volts is 5 volts.
The fact that the thermal gauges operate on heating a bimetal strip, they tolerate the pulsing if the regulator has been set properly.
When the gauges start pulsing up indicates the thermal regulator is going to fail soon, though they can also fail without warning.
That was the technology of the day and you're right, once the points in the regulator burn, the points remain closed and the regulator delivers straight 12 volts to the gauges and will burn all of them. That's why I always replace with a solid state regardless.
We find that generally you need to buy an equally expensive item in her color, style or hobby. Our friend now has a lovely Rooms to Go furnished dining room and bedroom as well as a starting point Camaro. Some sacrifices must be made...
Thanks for the video! Really informative! Quick question though, do you have a specific diagram or picture you can show us which shows where you're connecting the battery to on the Mustang instrument cluster please? Looking to do a similar test for my temp gauge and want to double check I've got it right.
Thanks!
Power comes into the voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. The cluster will need to be grounded.
@@AutoRestoMod got it working! The household radiator as a ground did the trick. Managed to check the temp gauge 👍 and also try out the new led lights I installed 😁 thanks again for the help!
The RTE (Real Time Engineering) IVR is a modern solid state piece that mimics the pulsed 12v output (5v mean avg) of the OE piece. It also has way better reliability plus additional features. None of the other solid state IVR provide this and only supply a steady 5v which, yes, will certainly effect the accuracy of those thermal gauges.
When do you guys think you will be doing the under dash AC/heater parts? I have a 67 convetible mustang and I'm feeling confident about everything but that install.. the AC evap/ heatercore box and blower motor box mostly..
Do you install in this order? wiring - blower / vent box (run hoses) - ac/heater box - dash & trim pieces?
are you guys gonna be at SEMA? if so when and where? id love to visit
This is a really helpful video guys thanks!
Looking at buying a 1967 Mustang Hardtop how do you convince your significant other that its a good idea?
This is exactly what I needed, great stuff AutoRestoMod, keep it up.
I have a 1980 C10 Silverado that's going on 40 years old, she has the original cluster with gauges, I'm having issues with the gauges not reading correctly. Is it possible that the circuit board the problem or the parts are just old, like the owner.
nice work keep it up!
Hi Team. I have a 68 Mustang. My fuel, oil pressure and water temp does not work. I have change the voltage regulator on the back of the instrument panel. No change. Any recommendations? Thanks Ron
Best thing to do is get a harness diagram and do a wire trace. You can also try and ground the cluster. Get some alligator clamps and clamp one to the lower cluster screws (your cluster ground point) and the other to the screw point for the lower screw. Sometimes paint can foul the ground.
I go to re-plug my gauge assembly and it wants to melt the printed circuit. It is WTF, I did not change anything!
Sounds like a ground issue. We'd look into that first. It could be that a ground wire got messed up when you removed the cluster. We've done that before and not realized it.
Friends, telling to go to the junkyard get the parts,I'm asking myself those parts are just as old. I have a little money saved up but don't know where buy parts for my truck.
And international harvester
OK!
Why waste the viewers time with annoying fake drama ?
Wish they'd stop trying to be funny and entertaining cuz they're Not.. just show what people search for .
Stop being grumpy.
Exactly. The shtick is annoying. I find I have to bump up the playback speed.