Top Tip: I had all sorts of bother getting that loose, floppy seal to stay centered when offering up the sender unit to the tank. I was cursing Andy thinking that he must have edited his video a dozen times as he made it look so effortless!! 😖😂 I thought I'd got it in place - there was no signs of the seal protruding around the edges of the unit. I put some fuel in the tank, came back the next morning and it was dripping fuel every other second! 😳So, here's the tip: put a smear of Permatex etc sealer around the base plate of the sender unit and sit the seal on it, making sure that it's centred correctly. Leave it for 24hrs to set and adhere the seal to the unit. Then put more another smear of sealer on to the the mating face of the fuel tank. The seal will remain centred when you offer the unit up to the tank and you'll get a perfect seal between the unit and the tank. Leave for another 24hrs to set before filling the tank. Hope this helps! 😅
Lol, no fancy editing in this video. The permatex would work, but it doesn't take much to hold that gasket to the sending unit, and you wouldn't need to wait 24 hours before install. But, if you're not in a hurry, this would work too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel With winter fast approaching here on the West Coast of Scotland, Andy, I'm IMPATIENT!! LOL Thanks for your great videos - the rear axle will be next Spring's project!
Tanks, er THANKS for this video, Andy! I'm about to change the sender unit on my '67 Mustang and this was really helpful. My only concern is that my tank doesn't have a drain plug and I have absolutely no idea how much petrol is actually in there!! 😬
The drain plug is usually on the corner of the tank. However, if you truly don't have that plug, drive the car to as close to empty as you dare and then put a bucket under the sending unit to catch the fuel when you knock that ring loose on the outside of the sending unit. Good luck, you've got this! :)
I ended up using Blue RTV, in the gasket groove, then the gasket.....the rest fell right in place. That gasket that comes with the Scott Drake sending unit, it was to big....had to go buy one at the parts store, perfect fit.
After the 2019 restoration on my 1966 2+2 I found I had some trash in the tank. Bought a new tank with a drain and sender. Das gauge has been off since. need to pull it and check Ohm. thx
Dropped in new tank and new fuel lines. New sending unit and it tests perfectly. Read about 75 ohms and I have about 3 gallons in tank. Gauge still doesn't work? No clue where to start with the electrics of wire connected to unit on bottom of tank. Appears to go through trunk and then under frame and unsure from there.
The fuel sending unit should read about 73 ohms when empty (even with one gallon in the tank it can read empty) and about 10 ohms when full. While it's kind of too late, testing the sending unit by measuring the ohms at "full" vs "empty" is always a great first step before it's placed in the tank. In your scenario, you can try and add a gallon or two to see if the ohm load changes. If it does, then you might be fine. Otherwise, you have to drain the fuel, pull the sending unit, and see if it's good or not. In most cases, it's the sending unit and not a wiring issue. But, that depends on who has messed with it over the past 50+ years. :)
Andy, does your fuel tank depth match how far you moved your float? Floats can't go higher than the top of your tank, of course. In your video it looks like your float is moving quite a range, but checking the online store the tank for my 64 is only good up to 65, and you have a 66 so maybe they got taller in 66. Does your fuel gauge go all the way up when your gas tank is full now? There's more to it than checking the Ohm reading. Unless you know that your fuel sending unit is the right one for you car, you also have to check that the vertical range of float movement matches the depth of your gas tank. Some PO put a new sending unit on my car before I bought it. The sending unit had a fine Ohm reading from bottom to top, BUT it was intended for a much taller gas tank (like modern tanks that aren't part of the trunk floor, maybe a pickup truck?). Because of this, the float reached the top of my new gas tank long before it reached minimum Ohms, resulting in a gas gauge that never read over 1/4 tank even when full. My new fuel sending unit (from Auto Krafters), intended for my car, ranges 4-7/8 inches. TL;DR: Fuel gauges tell you float position, not gallons.
@@AndyKruseChannel Joke, right? Readers might take you seriously if it wasn't for the :) . Have a good one, dude! Incidentally, I about went crazy trying to keep that gasket in the groove while installing the sending unit today. Vaseline didn't work for me. Ended up using PermaTex gasket tack to hold it in place.
Hey Andy… I have a pretty good leak coming from the fuel sending unit around the ring. Should I just replace the ring and gasket, or should I just do the whole unit?
It is possible the gasket may have not been installed correctly the last time it was serviced, or the gasket is just needing to be replaced, so either way you'll have to drain the tank to fix this issue. While you're there, you might as well replace the sending unit since they're relatively cheap and this process has to happen when you eventually need to replace the sending unit. :)
Just to be safe, you'll want to use a wooden dowel or brass punch when tapping on the lock ring. The last thing you want is a spark. There a special lock ring removal tool that's really alick (no pun intemded).
Ok mine had 4 gallons, I put it back in and the gauge read just above empty and drove to gas station took just about 8 gallons on full, drove it on a good cruise before I put it bed for the winter with stability and filled the tank
Andy HELP......you make it look too easy. I'm a 58 year old woman, and I love to work on my 65, when I can handle the job. Well I CANNOT get the gasket to stay in place. Even with no obvious pinching, once back together it leaks like a silve😢 Are there any tips you can give me?? I'm using the sending unit, from your link.....I don't like the gasket 😅
Yeah, that gasket is a real pain, especially when it's not a realistic option to remove the tank from the car (essentially trying to install this thing upside down). I struggled with the same thing, and I made the mistake of filling the gas tank after the install and before I could confirm the gasket was seated properly. I've heard some people say using something like a dap of Vaseline in a few spots to hold the gasket in place would help, and since it's not a glue, it won't harden and create a new leak point. I have not be able to confirm this, but it was on my list of things to try if I continued to struggle with the gasket. Thankfully I was able to get it to work the second time (no tricks, just trying to make sure everything lines up). Good luck, you've got this!
I just got my hands on my first classic mustang, 1966, is driving but the gas fumes are all over the place although a new exhaust was just installed, what can it be ? There is no leaking anywhere, but the smell is very strong inside and outside. Thanks
My first guess is that it's running too rich. I had the same issue with the current Carb on my engine. I have since reduced the Jet size and it's much better. If that's not it, there may be a hole or plug missing in the trunk or backseat area and fumes are getting in that way. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel do you use some sort of Vapor Lock system or dual fuel lines for sending extra fuel back to the tank ? Wondering if i should do that to my 289 engine.
Im going to change my sending unit this weekend but I’m replacing with the one that has a return line inlet , I am trying to combat heat soaking . Im also going to use a vapor release fuel filter. Has anyone else used that method?
I had no idea of the condition of the sending unit, it was on my list of parts to replace as I continue to go through the car. It was fine, but now I know for certain that everything is good on that end. :)
Top Tip: I had all sorts of bother getting that loose, floppy seal to stay centered when offering up the sender unit to the tank. I was cursing Andy thinking that he must have edited his video a dozen times as he made it look so effortless!! 😖😂 I thought I'd got it in place - there was no signs of the seal protruding around the edges of the unit. I put some fuel in the tank, came back the next morning and it was dripping fuel every other second! 😳So, here's the tip: put a smear of Permatex etc sealer around the base plate of the sender unit and sit the seal on it, making sure that it's centred correctly. Leave it for 24hrs to set and adhere the seal to the unit. Then put more another smear of sealer on to the the mating face of the fuel tank. The seal will remain centred when you offer the unit up to the tank and you'll get a perfect seal between the unit and the tank. Leave for another 24hrs to set before filling the tank. Hope this helps! 😅
Lol, no fancy editing in this video. The permatex would work, but it doesn't take much to hold that gasket to the sending unit, and you wouldn't need to wait 24 hours before install. But, if you're not in a hurry, this would work too. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel With winter fast approaching here on the West Coast of Scotland, Andy, I'm IMPATIENT!! LOL Thanks for your great videos - the rear axle will be next Spring's project!
Nice video, i'm going to change sender unit, tank and whole fuel line to new next year. I'm changing original 5/16" to stainless 3/8" fuel line.
Sounds great, good luck!!
you are a god send with these videos thank you!!
Glad I could help!
Saved for later, I need to replace the OEM sending unit on my Pop's 66 as it started to leak.
Nice! :)
Thanks for dropping this video, im doing this tomorrow on my 66!
Good luck, you’ve got this!! 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel yes sir!
Tanks, er THANKS for this video, Andy! I'm about to change the sender unit on my '67 Mustang and this was really helpful. My only concern is that my tank doesn't have a drain plug and I have absolutely no idea how much petrol is actually in there!! 😬
The drain plug is usually on the corner of the tank. However, if you truly don't have that plug, drive the car to as close to empty as you dare and then put a bucket under the sending unit to catch the fuel when you knock that ring loose on the outside of the sending unit. Good luck, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Yup, it turns out that i DO have the drain plug! I'm blaming night shift and my ever shrinking vision! Thanks again.
7 Excellent video my friend Andy, apparently it is a very simple aspect but in daily life it saves us a lot of problems. Greetings!!!
Thanks!
Great video Andy, this is exactly what I needed.
Great to hear!
I ended up using Blue RTV, in the gasket groove, then the gasket.....the rest fell right in place. That gasket that comes with the Scott Drake sending unit, it was to big....had to go buy one at the parts store, perfect fit.
Nice!
After the 2019 restoration on my 1966 2+2 I found I had some trash in the tank. Bought a new tank with a drain and sender. Das gauge has been off since. need to pull it and check Ohm. thx
Sounds like a good idea. :)
Just did that. Word of advice, take off the driver's side exhaust/muffler. Absolute pain in the ass if you dont
Outstanding video… Beautiful car😎
Thank you! 👍
Dropped in new tank and new fuel lines. New sending unit and it tests perfectly. Read about 75 ohms and I have about 3 gallons in tank. Gauge still doesn't work? No clue where to start with the electrics of wire connected to unit on bottom of tank. Appears to go through trunk and then under frame and unsure from there.
The fuel sending unit should read about 73 ohms when empty (even with one gallon in the tank it can read empty) and about 10 ohms when full. While it's kind of too late, testing the sending unit by measuring the ohms at "full" vs "empty" is always a great first step before it's placed in the tank. In your scenario, you can try and add a gallon or two to see if the ohm load changes. If it does, then you might be fine. Otherwise, you have to drain the fuel, pull the sending unit, and see if it's good or not.
In most cases, it's the sending unit and not a wiring issue. But, that depends on who has messed with it over the past 50+ years. :)
Andy, does your fuel tank depth match how far you moved your float? Floats can't go higher than the top of your tank, of course. In your video it looks like your float is moving quite a range, but checking the online store the tank for my 64 is only good up to 65, and you have a 66 so maybe they got taller in 66. Does your fuel gauge go all the way up when your gas tank is full now?
There's more to it than checking the Ohm reading. Unless you know that your fuel sending unit is the right one for you car, you also have to check that the vertical range of float movement matches the depth of your gas tank. Some PO put a new sending unit on my car before I bought it. The sending unit had a fine Ohm reading from bottom to top, BUT it was intended for a much taller gas tank (like modern tanks that aren't part of the trunk floor, maybe a pickup truck?). Because of this, the float reached the top of my new gas tank long before it reached minimum Ohms, resulting in a gas gauge that never read over 1/4 tank even when full. My new fuel sending unit (from Auto Krafters), intended for my car, ranges 4-7/8 inches.
TL;DR: Fuel gauges tell you float position, not gallons.
Don't know if it goes all the way up, I can't see inside the tank. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Joke, right? Readers might take you seriously if it wasn't for the :) . Have a good one, dude!
Incidentally, I about went crazy trying to keep that gasket in the groove while installing the sending unit today. Vaseline didn't work for me. Ended up using PermaTex gasket tack to hold it in place.
Hey Andy… I have a pretty good leak coming from the fuel sending unit around the ring. Should I just replace the ring and gasket, or should I just do the whole unit?
It is possible the gasket may have not been installed correctly the last time it was serviced, or the gasket is just needing to be replaced, so either way you'll have to drain the tank to fix this issue. While you're there, you might as well replace the sending unit since they're relatively cheap and this process has to happen when you eventually need to replace the sending unit. :)
Excellent video. Will this apply to my 70 cougar xr7?
I'm sure there's some similarities between the Mustangs and Cougars of that era. :)
Just to be safe, you'll want to use a wooden dowel or brass punch when tapping on the lock ring. The last thing you want is a spark. There a special lock ring removal tool that's really alick (no pun intemded).
Danger is my middle name! :)
A good tip is to coat the gasket with vasoline and lay it in the ridge in the tank. Then put the sending unit in. The Vasoline will hold it in place.
Good tip. 🙂
Did mine 3 weeks ago on my 68 coupe, were did your tank read when you put your 4 plus gallons of fuel back in
I don’t recall, I wasn’t paying attention. 🙂
Ok mine had 4 gallons, I put it back in and the gauge read just above empty and drove to gas station took just about 8 gallons on full, drove it on a good cruise before I put it bed for the winter with stability and filled the tank
Andy HELP......you make it look too easy. I'm a 58 year old woman, and I love to work on my 65, when I can handle the job. Well I CANNOT get the gasket to stay in place. Even with no obvious pinching, once back together it leaks like a silve😢 Are there any tips you can give me?? I'm using the sending unit, from your link.....I don't like the gasket 😅
Yeah, that gasket is a real pain, especially when it's not a realistic option to remove the tank from the car (essentially trying to install this thing upside down). I struggled with the same thing, and I made the mistake of filling the gas tank after the install and before I could confirm the gasket was seated properly.
I've heard some people say using something like a dap of Vaseline in a few spots to hold the gasket in place would help, and since it's not a glue, it won't harden and create a new leak point. I have not be able to confirm this, but it was on my list of things to try if I continued to struggle with the gasket. Thankfully I was able to get it to work the second time (no tricks, just trying to make sure everything lines up). Good luck, you've got this!
I just got my hands on my first classic mustang, 1966, is driving but the gas fumes are all over the place although a new exhaust was just installed, what can it be ? There is no leaking anywhere, but the smell is very strong inside and outside. Thanks
My first guess is that it's running too rich. I had the same issue with the current Carb on my engine. I have since reduced the Jet size and it's much better.
If that's not it, there may be a hole or plug missing in the trunk or backseat area and fumes are getting in that way. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel do you use some sort of Vapor Lock system or dual fuel lines for sending extra fuel back to the tank ? Wondering if i should do that to my 289 engine.
@@omarkm7 There is no return fuel line on these classic cars. :)
Check the hose between the filler hole and the tank
If this is loose it'll stink
Im going to change my sending unit this weekend but I’m replacing with the one that has a return line inlet , I am trying to combat heat soaking . Im also going to use a vapor release fuel filter. Has anyone else used that method?
I don’t have any experience with those units, but I’m curious how it’ll turn out. You should put together a video on it. 🙂
I have except I put the return line where the drain plug is. Works great and I didn’t need to replace the sending unit!
Did you check the ohm rating on the old unit? Just wondering if it read incorrectly.
It read fine. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel got to love it.
We’re you having issues with the old one or just replace for good measure?
It looked fine, it was probably the wrong ohm reading for the gauge hes using.
I had no idea of the condition of the sending unit, it was on my list of parts to replace as I continue to go through the car. It was fine, but now I know for certain that everything is good on that end. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Smart 👍
So i just removed my FSU and a pair of pliars works better than a flat head to remove the key
Good to know. :)
Cool
I think so too. :)
I’ve replaced twice.
Not accurate.
Someone makes a new type that uses a laser to measure the fuel level.
Forgot details.
Yeah, I’ve heard these are made cheaply and there’s a relatively high chance of a faulty unit, that’s why it’s best to test before installing. 🙂