Good video on bad mtr windings.I would also have stated the mtr was wrong size for Trane. Most Trane blades are 23-27' pitch and with wrong mtr cause overheating .
We started buying meters at Harbor Freight for use at work as they tended to disappear. Sometimes they were forgotten, sometimes they were destroyed, sometimes they were just gone. They worked well and you can buy 4 for what one Fluke costs. I bought Fluke meters when they were one of the few digital multimeters and had a lifetime guarantee. After the founder John Fluke died in 1984 they dropped the lifetime warranty. Other companies started making digital meters and prices came down. Fluke prices have stayed high. The Ames 600-AT has about everything you need for $79.99 and it's rated Cat III.
I do find some good tools and test tools at harbor freight. I have looked at some of the Ames meters. The 2 fluke meters I am looking at still have the lifetime warranty. Not many flukes do anymore. They feel better-built thou then some of the cheaper meters I have owned over the years.
Good vid. Keep in mind, if you test a motor and you read OL, the motor may also be thermally protected. This a temperature activated switch that may reset when the motor cools. If you read OL, check the temp of the motor. If it's hot, Let it cool. If it tests good after its cooled off, it's likely just a bad run cap. A bad run cap can cause a condenser fan motor to thermal by drawing locked rotor. This thermal switch can even be one stuck open and won't reset due to a bad run cap. Just because you read OL doesn't always mean you have a bad motor.
If you read OL on a cold motor, or the thermal overload switch is stuck open its toast. How do you get a motor to reset an internal bi-metal thermal overload that is stuck open? I don't know that trick. This motor was cold and bouncing around in my truck for days before I did this video. This is from the sabotaged Trane video. Unfortunately, this motor had a burn spot inside on the stator winding. Yes if the motor is hot and just off on overload from a bad run cap there is a good chance it will operate when the motor cools down. Yet if you have OL on a cold motor all you can do is replace or get the motor rebuilt. If you watch my vids you will see me cooling off many compressors with open windings. I have even hose down condenser fan motors trying to cool them off. As long as the motor doesn't have exposed windings.
Read my post again... "If it tests good after it has cooled, it was most likely a bad run cap." The opposite can then be said, "if it tests bad after it has cooled, the motor is toast." The only way I spoke of resetting the bimetal is by letting it cool. Last I checked, stuck=stuck. Now... An oversight on my part is I should have prefaced my comment to include "troubleshooting in the field/on the job" and not in the garage. We don't need a new tech walking up to a piece of equipment and becoming a parts changer just because they read OL when testing a motor. They also need to check the motor temperature. Take a 3 phase high horse power motor industrial motor for example... That's a crap ton of money to spend on replacing a motor just because of thermal protection due to a lost phase. Typically there are other safeties in play, but I hope you get the point. We all make mistakes... I owned mine... I could have also pointed out that you called the rotor a stator, and decided not to until now. Rotor=rotating part of a motor and Stator=stationary part.
I was hoping you had a way to reset the bi metal element. Kidding. I am sorry about calling the rotor a stator. You are correct the rotor does rotate to create the magnetic force. I make mistakes all the time. I also shouldn’t have shot this video at 12:30pm on a Sunday night. You are correct that bigger horsepower motors do get expensive and should get tested correctly
@@thehvachacker No worries... However, on a MOTOR, the rotating magnetic field is created by the stator. As the field rotates voltage/current is induced into the rotor bars and a rotational force is created causing the rotor to rotate. Now on a GENERATOR.. the magnetic field is present on the rotor caused by rotating magnets present in the rotor. The magentic field of the rotor cuts the windings of the stator thus inducing voltage/current. Energy can not be created or destroyed, only transferred. There is a little bit of theory for those following along. Edit: inducting=inducing. Cheers!
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Found a 460v unit that calls for a 5uf cap that but someone put a 10uf and it blows the disconnect fuses. (bad condenser fan motor)
The HVAC Hacker : Fluke used to offer a HVAC kit that had the fluke 87 and the temp gun with all your special leads needed in HVAC electrical testing. It came in a nice case to keep it all together. I think the catalog number was Fluke87-mini, it's been a while since i sold fluke but you can go to their website and look.
Is that motor even designed to be used outdoors? Looks like rust built up on the rotor and stator making it rub and causing a hard start. It likely wouldn't start with a 5mfd capacitor so a larger one was installed. The rotor and stator should be painted or plated to be used outdoors. That motor is probably designed for a furnace blower which is why the shaft is so long.
Bill, i have understanding. Your explanation is - to me very clear. But it was from the beginning. it is a bit of a misnomer "HVAC Hacker " Agreed ? You sir are not a hack - of or in the trade. Respect of knowledge, is what your detractors need to learn. It is not always how you go about finding a fault, but knowing where a factual fault will be found. Experience is the thing that shows you this. Period - done. They are just not as time tried. On the job as you are. And yes many ways to " fix " said problem/s. After enough years you just know what to do, and not. Thumbs up dude. Big respect. Is others can not see this They are the hackers....
The name was a joke at first yet even with this name I was able to build up a channel. Yet I wonder if the name is why so many come here to bash and try to criticize my jobs even though they all are operating correctly when I am finished. Yet I am doing the work for my customers, their satisfaction is all that matters
Sir like to see if you’re going to give you information be helpful about it I can’t see 50% of what you’re showing thank you for attempting to do that I really appreciate it but like everybody might see if you’re going to help out thank you again
Was there a date code on this motor by chance? I take it since you mentioned the drain plug not being removed, that this was in fact a replacement motor for the unit at some point in time.
I'm not sure cause I can't read the label that well, but it looks like that motor is from 1998, I wonder how long it could have lasted if it hadn't been beaten so badly.
I think a few more years. Yet it was beat up also from moisture, lack of oil, then comes a 20mfd to cause those amps to double and over heat the motor. For a week before I was called out
Good video, an excellent example of what happens if one doesn't remove the drain plug. I've been looking at a UEI 429 because it is compatible with my iManifold. Any thoughts on that meter?
The iManifold is great for a larger refrigeration system, but I think it’s a little bit overkill for small systems, the testo’s are good also. I can get a lot of information from the iManifold, superheat, subcool, ambient in, discharge line temp, evaporator superheat, evaporator split, box temp, dry bulb, wet bulb, EER, and tons of cooling, ALL AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME SCREEN...
Your video is hard to follow. You are jumping around on to many things. It's not that difficult to show someone how to check a motor without all the confusion. Nice try.
Terrible video, cant see what you are referring too because the camera is always off center. Also don't really appreciate hearing the fan blowing in the mic.
Great video. I recently purchased a property in a high humidity area. Sure enough - the drain plug had not been removed on the failed motor.
Good video on bad mtr windings.I would also have stated the mtr was wrong size for Trane. Most Trane blades are 23-27' pitch and with wrong mtr cause overheating .
Thanks, I hope it helps someone one day while trying to troubleshoot a motor.
We started buying meters at Harbor Freight for use at work as they tended to disappear. Sometimes they were forgotten, sometimes they were destroyed, sometimes they were just gone. They worked well and you can buy 4 for what one Fluke costs. I bought Fluke meters when they were one of the few digital multimeters and had a lifetime guarantee. After the founder John Fluke died in 1984 they dropped the lifetime warranty. Other companies started making digital meters and prices came down. Fluke prices have stayed high. The Ames 600-AT has about everything you need for $79.99 and it's rated Cat III.
I do find some good tools and test tools at harbor freight. I have looked at some of the Ames meters. The 2 fluke meters I am looking at still have the lifetime warranty. Not many flukes do anymore. They feel better-built thou then some of the cheaper meters I have owned over the years.
Good vid. Keep in mind, if you test a motor and you read OL, the motor may also be thermally protected. This a temperature activated switch that may reset when the motor cools. If you read OL, check the temp of the motor. If it's hot, Let it cool. If it tests good after its cooled off, it's likely just a bad run cap. A bad run cap can cause a condenser fan motor to thermal by drawing locked rotor. This thermal switch can even be one stuck open and won't reset due to a bad run cap. Just because you read OL doesn't always mean you have a bad motor.
If you read OL on a cold motor, or the thermal overload switch is stuck open its toast. How do you get a motor to reset an internal bi-metal thermal overload that is stuck open? I don't know that trick. This motor was cold and bouncing around in my truck for days before I did this video. This is from the sabotaged Trane video. Unfortunately, this motor had a burn spot inside on the stator winding. Yes if the motor is hot and just off on overload from a bad run cap there is a good chance it will operate when the motor cools down. Yet if you have OL on a cold motor all you can do is replace or get the motor rebuilt. If you watch my vids you will see me cooling off many compressors with open windings. I have even hose down condenser fan motors trying to cool them off. As long as the motor doesn't have exposed windings.
Read my post again... "If it tests good after it has cooled, it was most likely a bad run cap." The opposite can then be said, "if it tests bad after it has cooled, the motor is toast." The only way I spoke of resetting the bimetal is by letting it cool. Last I checked, stuck=stuck.
Now... An oversight on my part is I should have prefaced my comment to include "troubleshooting in the field/on the job" and not in the garage. We don't need a new tech walking up to a piece of equipment and becoming a parts changer just because they read OL when testing a motor. They also need to check the motor temperature. Take a 3 phase high horse power motor industrial motor for example... That's a crap ton of money to spend on replacing a motor just because of thermal protection due to a lost phase. Typically there are other safeties in play, but I hope you get the point.
We all make mistakes... I owned mine... I could have also pointed out that you called the rotor a stator, and decided not to until now. Rotor=rotating part of a motor and Stator=stationary part.
Keep up with the vids, and thanks for taking the time to post them.
I was hoping you had a way to reset the bi metal element. Kidding. I am sorry about calling the rotor a stator. You are correct the rotor does rotate to create the magnetic force. I make mistakes all the time. I also shouldn’t have shot this video at 12:30pm on a Sunday night. You are correct that bigger horsepower motors do get expensive and should get tested correctly
@@thehvachacker No worries... However, on a MOTOR, the rotating magnetic field is created by the stator. As the field rotates voltage/current is induced into the rotor bars and a rotational force is created causing the rotor to rotate. Now on a GENERATOR.. the magnetic field is present on the rotor caused by rotating magnets present in the rotor. The magentic field of the rotor cuts the windings of the stator thus inducing voltage/current. Energy can not be created or destroyed, only transferred. There is a little bit of theory for those following along.
Edit: inducting=inducing.
Cheers!
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. Found a 460v unit that calls for a 5uf cap that but someone put a 10uf and it blows the disconnect fuses. (bad condenser fan motor)
The HVAC Hacker : Fluke used to offer a HVAC kit that had the fluke 87 and the temp gun with all your special leads needed in HVAC electrical testing. It came in a nice case to keep it all together. I think the catalog number was Fluke87-mini, it's been a while since i sold fluke but you can go to their website and look.
Thanks I will check into it
Good video. I learn something new
That made the time it took to film and create this video worth it.
Good job, i loved it, greetings from Córdoba,Argentina.
Thanks and greetings
I learned 1% of the time the capacitor can’t handle the Motor under a load when it bench tests good did not know that thanks!
Good video. I like this kind of training. Helps me out.
It’s an interesting video I should do a few more of this style
please do!!🍺
Good video. Thanks for sharing
I am happy you enjoyed it
That's a great Tech tip. You got to get the moisture out of there. Peace brother
Is that motor even designed to be used outdoors? Looks like rust built up on the rotor and stator making it rub and causing a hard start. It likely wouldn't start with a 5mfd capacitor so a larger one was installed. The rotor and stator should be painted or plated to be used outdoors. That motor is probably designed for a furnace blower which is why the shaft is so long.
Great video 👍
Bill, i have understanding. Your explanation is - to me very clear. But it was from the beginning. it is a bit of a misnomer "HVAC Hacker " Agreed ?
You sir are not a hack - of or in the trade. Respect of knowledge, is what your detractors need to learn. It is not always how you go about finding a fault, but knowing where a factual fault will be found. Experience is the thing that shows you this. Period - done. They are just not as time tried.
On the job as you are. And yes many ways to " fix " said problem/s. After enough years you just know what to do, and not. Thumbs up dude.
Big respect. Is others can not see this They are the hackers....
The name was a joke at first yet even with this name I was able to build up a channel. Yet I wonder if the name is why so many come here to bash and try to criticize my jobs even though they all are operating correctly when I am finished. Yet I am doing the work for my customers, their satisfaction is all that matters
Would have liked to see the burn spot that you aimed the camera at the towel when you showed us.
Sorry I need to lean to film better. I already tossed the motor
Run capacitor slightly alters the phase on that winding to create a circulating magnetic field to drive the armature around.
Sir like to see if you’re going to give you information be helpful about it I can’t see 50% of what you’re showing thank you for attempting to do that I really appreciate it but like everybody might see if you’re going to help out thank you again
Was there a date code on this motor by chance? I take it since you mentioned the drain plug not being removed, that this was in fact a replacement motor for the unit at some point in time.
Good vid Thanks for sharing, That motor look pretty old any idea how old !
It is an old motor. I am guessing 10-20 years somewhere in that range
I'm not sure cause I can't read the label that well, but it looks like that motor is from 1998, I wonder how long it could have lasted if it hadn't been beaten so badly.
I think a few more years. Yet it was beat up also from moisture, lack of oil, then comes a 20mfd to cause those amps to double and over heat the motor. For a week before I was called out
what kind of camera are you using to record your videos?
Gopro hero 6 black
Good video, an excellent example of what happens if one doesn't remove the drain plug. I've been looking at a UEI 429 because it is compatible with my iManifold. Any thoughts on that meter?
It looks like a good meter. without using it though hard to say. How do you like the I-manifold? I am looking at them and the Testo smart probes
The iManifold is great for a larger refrigeration system, but I think it’s a little bit overkill for small systems, the testo’s are good also. I can get a lot of information from the iManifold, superheat, subcool, ambient in, discharge line temp, evaporator superheat, evaporator split, box temp, dry bulb, wet bulb, EER, and tons of cooling, ALL AT THE SAME TIME ON THE SAME SCREEN...
1587 is awsome
So, they wont work under water? 😁 thanks for pointing that out.
Actually according to Trane’s commercial it can operate under water. Didn’t know the controls were in a waterproof enclosure
rust and moving parts no good.
Your video is hard to follow. You are jumping around on to many things. It's not that difficult to show someone how to check a motor without all the confusion.
Nice try.
Terrible video, cant see what you are referring too because the camera is always off center. Also don't really appreciate hearing the fan blowing in the mic.
I can't please everyone. To think I had the little Milwaukee job site fan not the big shop fan going.
Hell you can't see when your camera is somewhere else