Behlen's vinyl sealer has been rebranded under Mohawk as their EZ Vinyl Sealer - take a look at the Behlen/Mohawk list at my amazon store link here to find it: www.amazon.com/shop/bradangove
Can you use the Mohawk EZ Vinyl Sealer in the spray can on a dyed guitar top and then use Spraymax 2K Clear Glamour over that? Hoping to avoid any unforeseen reactions between products. Thanks as always!
Hey Brad! Thanks for the videos! super informative! One quiz for you... yesterday I put several coats of it (Mohawk EZ Vinyl Sealer) to my guitar body, so when can I start sanding and which grain should I use? Thank you so much for your help!
What would you recommend as a sealer for a solid mahogany carved top guitar that I plan to finish in an automotive acrylic lacquer for an opaque color and clear coat?
Thank you Brad! I was going to spray Deft sanding sealer before my color and go through the sanding process with a few coats, but I needed some clarification. You answered my question; so I don't have to put primer on top of the sanding sealer. You've helped me a great deal, and I thank you for that. Greg
The product I use is Cat Lacquer. I am using Omega Primer, base coat and clear coat. After completing my piano job I had an area I needed to re sand through the clear coat. Should I still use my primer when redoing that area? Thanks Brad !
This is good. Thanks. From what you said, an oil based poly can be applied over a vinyl sealer .... is that correct? I keep finding contradictory information about this. Thanks in advance!
I don’t think those are designed to work together, but I’ve used that combination successfully before. I just made sure I kept my first couple coats of poly very light.
Brad this is a God send upload. One question just before I go and pull trigger and get the materials. I need to paint fascia etc on my Tudor style house. They replaced pieces of wood with Cedar. So a sealer is a better choice for the outside then Behlen Vynal sealer would be a better choice for the outdoors before going over and painting it with Sherwin? Thank you in advance. I think you have answered my question I just want to double check.
Thank you for the video. I have a problem applying many coats of sealer (NC or PU, no difference) ends in a milky colour which ruins the crystal clear top coat from beneath. Do you have any suggestions?
That’s called blushing. It comes from excess humidity being trapped under the paint. For nitro you can sometimes get it out with a heat gun (gently) or with blush reducer. Using a slower solvent when spraying if you’re mixing it yourself can also help.
There are many different sealers. Some are poly. If you want to do a relic you should be using poly. Generally you would go with nitrocellulose lacquer sanding sealer or vinyl sealer.
Brad, I'm building a 51 p bass pine body. Going to be Surf Green. Using Solarez grain filler. Should I use a white sealer to make green more brilliant after the grain filler? Using colortone lacquer...
Hello, Brad If you don't mind, may I ask a product recomendation from you? I'm a father of two kids. We moved to a top floor of the old apartment in May 2021. We have been suffering from bad sewer odor in kids room since we moved to this apartment. Fianlly I decided to open the wall and fixed the sewer vent pipe, but it still stink. Last thing I can do is to seal the wall and ceilling with some kind of paint or something. So I am asking what is the best ordor sealing paint you recommend to my kids room. Your quick advice can help my kids health. Best regards, Carlton Kim from South Korea
Hi there, This isn’t something that I’m familiar with. I would think that odor sealing has more to do with achieving an air tight seal than it does with the paint type. You might want to seal the joints/corners with aluminum hvac tape.
Hey Brad, specific to guitar finishing, is there anytime I would want to use a primer and a sealer? Won’t using a. Primer cut down on my color coats? If using both, i’m assuming sealer goes on first, then primer. What do you think?
If you’re going to use both, then you’re right. I would do sealer first. That being said, I wouldnt bother using both generally because in that case your primer is just filling the role of a base coat. You can get that opaque first layer down without resorting to something as thick as a primer.
Hi Brad many thanks for this clip. Let's take car body scratches/stone chips for an example - fillers are used to fill the gaps/holes; primers/seals are applied on fillers to provide adhesion to the paint. Is this correct? Or I could skip the primers and paint directly onto the fillers?
Thanks for the info! But I'm in a bit of trouble, where I live (Chile) I can't find any vinyl sealer, only acrilic, can I use an acrylic sealer on a guitar and then paint with spray? Or should I step this part and use some primer in this case?
Hey Brad, Awsome video man - I'm planning to paint a guitar body from bare wood, the grain isn't too aggressive and wondering how much better sanding/vinyl sealer (or zinsser stuff as seen in this vid?) would be for paint adhesion over primer? Planning to go oil based polyurethane base / clear .. unfortunetaly having a hard time locally sourcing sealer (automotive style primers readily available) and debating whether I bite the bullet on ordering sealer online or if primer would be close enough for adhesion / moisture resistance
Brad , i dont like you. You are young, good looking guy, successful and talented. What really bothers me about you is how down to earth and helpful you are. Thanks for all the videos !
For my truck which is a midnight blue metallic I said was gonna use a primer sealer but gonna use a dark grey sealer since my truck is a dark and not black. I have a color blender product now to blend in small spots with my paint where I had scratches at but will have the time to do it on the weekend and it finally gonna be in 70's more now in Michigan but moving to Texas before the next 9 months.
I've been researching primers for a fiberglass tonneau cover project with a lot of body filler for awhile now. I've found out that 2 part urethane primers are best for fiberglass. But after watching this video I'm not sure I need primer. Should I even use the high build urethane primer to help cover up imperfections and just go straight to the oil based hammered copper paint?
@@BradAngove I'm not sure haha, it's in a can and I wasn't sure if it was a internationally known brand. I can't find any details on the can or their site and thought I'd check RUclips (usually has the answer lol). No worries though, I thought I'd ask just in case 👊
Brad. I used the link in your video for the Behlen Vinyl Sealer at Amazon but the product is currently unavailable. I put it on my wishlist to be notified when it does become available. I love your videos. The tutorials are very helpful. I know you do a lot of good for a lot of people tuning in to your channel. Keep up the great work.
We did our kitchen red wood table sanded down 220 400 stain with grey stain and sprayed auto 2k clear coat. That was 3 years ago and i have kids. The table still looks like the day i sorayed. I put 2 coats very wet and let dry next day sanded with 600 dry and resprayed. Came out like glass and super tough havent found a chip in it yet! Thanks for your vids!
I have a raw linden body and rattle cans of primer, gold paint and candy red paint - all acrylic lacquer. After sanding, I was recommended by a guy here on RUclips to use Shellac as a first step. I couldn't find the right type of shellac at the home improvement store. Instead, the sales guy managed to talk me into buying what is characterized as a 'water based lacquer sealer' for the first coats. After searching for more info, I found that it is generally not recommended to use water based lacquer under acrylic. So my first question is: will it be OK if I just spray the acrylic primer onto the sanded linden wood guitar body, followed by the gold and candy red? Or would it be better with another layer of something else before the primer? If so - would the 'water based lacquer sealer' work? If not, what should I use as the first layer (the availability of various types of paint here is limited, not like in North America or Europe.) Thanks in advance for any pointers!
Very helpful videos Brad! I'm a complete neophyte with wood-working, and currently starting a build of a Frankenstrat (raw Northern Ash body from Locke). Want to make sure I'm doing this right, but I've been told to do a light "sanding sealer" first, lightly sand, then grain fill, sand again, then another sanding sealer layer and sand again before beginning the paintjob. I'm using Dupli-color "perfect match". Would this Behlen Vinyl sealer be ok with the Dupli-color paints? And do I have the order of operations correct? FYI, I'll be relic'ing back to the wood in a few places. Thanks for any insight you can give to a noob!! :)
I would generally just spray 3 coats of the Behlen sealer and then let that dry for a day and assess if I need to do it again. If you’re relic’ing back to the wood you probably won’t want to do more than that. The you can sand that flat with 600 grit before moving on to your duplicolor. Start with your white to give the red a good base.
One thing I've been really confused about after watching lots of your videos. Do I sand after different coats of different paints? Do I sand after I lay down vinyl primer? Do I sand after I lay down the Auto Air acrylic sealer before I put down the base coat? Do I sand in between layers of clear poly?
If you haven’t already, have a look at my video on whether you need to sand between coats. That will help. In short: yes after the vinyl sealer, sometimes after the acrylic sealer, and for the poly you sand between sessions if you’re doing more than one, but not between coats per se.
I Brad, I came across your channel and hve been enjoying your videos. I have a question. I wanted a surf green strat but found a used one of the same model in fiesta red for a great price in great condition and bought it. I'm thinking about painting it surf green. I found a local dealer selling nitro laquer in spray cans. They claim a long development process in cooperation with guitar builders/painters, and that it hardens really well compared to other nitros. I'm wondering if I need to sand off the current/original poly laquer entirely, or if I could simply sand the red finish with fine grit paper and then spray over the red color. Will the thickness of the paint affect for instance the bridge height or something else in terms of guitar set up and playability? Are their any other concerns? (I only intend to play the guitar myself and enjoy it, don't care about resale value, also I don't have a strong opinion on poly vs. nitro, just this local shop has nitro for a fair price. So even though "nitro purists" could faint at the idea of putting nitro over poly, I just want the color)
Sand you’re poly to 400 or 600 grit and clean it well and you should be good to go. The old rule of thumb for cars was two finishes thick; no more. It won’t mess with your parts and playability, but you start to increase your risk of product failures when you add more finish thickness.
Pre stain is not a sealer really. Mod podge is pretty much glue, so I guess you could use that. Obviously it would make more sense to just buy some sealer though.
Brad, did you say I could use an Auto 2K Clear as a sealer, flat it and then that is ready for base coats and then more 2K clear? How long should I leave it on before flatting it, it will sink won’t it? I’m spraying a guitar neck, including walnut fretboard, with 2K clear to get a high gloss. I’m fed up with trying to use celly products right now, the weather is too cold and humid, I’m getting too much blooming. Thanks in advance. 👍
You can. It shrinks in a little bit, but that reaction is largely complete after about 24 hours for most 2K automotive clears. Then you can sand flat and spray your base coat.
It depends on the wood type. Generally 2-3 unless it’s quite open grained. I like to give it at least 3 hours before sanding. Ideally a day or two though.
Hi Brad, I use acrylic paint on metal water bottles and travel mugs. but the problem is that the paint peels off and I am not able to figure it out. For my case where i would like to use acrylic paint, I am assuming a primer plus a sealer to make it durable? What type of products would you suggest to make it dishwasher safe as well? Thanks for the video it's super useful to folks like me.
If you want paint to stick to metal you need to sand it first and then use a self-etching metal primer. No sealer required, but you’ll need clear coat after for durability. None of that is dishwasher safe. For that you need something like a frit-fired enamel, and an oven/kilne capable of baking the enamel on.
One thing I like using a primer for - especially on wood - is to provide a consistent surface for the top color. I sprayed a white primer on my Gibson Gold Top finish for example. I probably didn't need to...but I think it saved on the coat count for the gold.
I think you might be right. I would probably have done a few coats of sealer and then a heavily pigmented white base coat. White has good opacity, so it works well for that sort of thing.
hey Brad, thanks for the heads up nice video! Quick one for you: I'm a bit confused now let's say you want to use stain or dye to create a burst, would you fill the grain with a grain filler and then apply the stain at first, or would you apply a sanding sealer at first and then apply the stain or dye?
Hey Brad - wish I saw this video before I started my project. I applied primer - not sealer - to a guitar that I ultimately want a smooth finish. Can I apply sealer over the primer now?
Can you please review my painting plan for a steel bike frame. Let me know what you think. I already picked up from getting sandblasted and has no paint. But feels like it has primer already so not sure what thats about. But here it goes.... 1. Sand lil areas here and there to smooth out metal lil chunks around lugs & spray air to un- dust 2. Wipe down with mineral spirits and let dry 3. Spray rust-oleum primer filler & sandable let dry 4. Sand and spray air to un-dust 5. Another coat of primer filler and let dry 6. Sand and spray air to un-dust 7. Spray with primer sealer and let dry 8. Thin out oil based paint and brush on to get everywhere (around lugs, and double top tube part mixte buke) and let dry 9. Wet sand and wipe down 10. 2nd coat using preval sprayer with same paint 11. Wet sand and wipe down 12. 3rd coat using preval sprayer 13. Apply decals 14. Spray/brush top coat? 15. Wet sand? 16. 2nd coat top coat? 17. Wet sand? 18. Last top coat layer? Im not sure what to do for the top coat part or what i should use. Let me know what u think pleas
That process is fine. You don’t really need two types of primer though. The filler primer should be sufficient. You don’t need to wet sand between coats. If you are within the recoat windows when spraying you can do 2-3 coats in a row no problem. Even if you are sanding, dry sanding is sufficient.
I've got a sanded smooth guitar body, couldn't get every bit of the old paint off but I need to spray it a new color. It's as smooth as I'm gonna get it, but not being bare wood, what kinda primer should I use before paint? Or should I use something else first?
Question: If you were finishing a guitar with a Minwax penetrating stain, would you NOT use a sanding sealer? As opposed to using a water-based stain (dye) in which case would you use a sanding sealer? And would it be BEFORE the stain as opposed to after?
You could use a sanding sealer in either event. It would always be after the stain/dye though. If you seal the wood, the stain won’t soak in and stain it.
Hey Brad, question about clear primer for guitar burst paint jobs... I am planning on spraying a burst with Lil' Daddy Roth Flake Bad Azz Blue Kandy (comes in a rattle can) over a maple burl top wood that has been stained to pop its figure. I need help choosing a clear primer (ideally in a rattle can) that will work for the paint, but unpigmented so it does not obscure the gorgeous wood grain. Kiesel sprays a "primer' over UV-activated sanding sealer... I know it's a loaded question... maybe overthinking this
I’d say keep it simple and just use your clear coat as a primer as well. If it’s catalyzed then 2-3 coats should do the job just fine. Otherwise a polyester sealer would also be a solid option if you have access to a way to spray it.
Thank you for your reply... very helpful. Looks like the guys at Oxford Guitar Supply Co have a nitro lacquer sanding sealer that may work well for this.. comes in a rattle can :)@@BradAngove
Brad, first off, thanks for all of the informative tutorial videos. I find myself getting lost in them (in a good way). I had a question about prepping a Solo guitar kit. I got a SG DoubleNeck kit. I sanded the sealer off, and then used several coats of Aqua Coat grain filler and sanded smooth. Next, I used a duplicolor spray primer like I saw in one of your videos. The primer still needs to be sanded, but I can tell that there are a few spots where the grain is still showing through. My question is: Should I have used some kind of sealer instead of the primer? I plan on spraying with a flat-black duplicolor. I will then look for some kind of clear, possibly one of the 2k clears that have a longer shelf life. Thanks for the info. I'd love to share some photos of my progress, if you wanted to see, since I am following your method. Mike
Sometimes primer shrinks as it dries, as does filler. It’s not all that surprising that you may see some grain through the first layers. Consider sanding back most of the way and then doing another couple coats of primer.
Finally stumbled on your video, thanks! I had used primer, but never a grain filler. It makes sense the way you explained it. Just doing a normal solid color finish, should I sand off my primer and go with a sealer?
thanks very informative ,can you give me tips how to erase the gloss of wood filler on wood dents ,hole or scraches, i tried sealer ,sanding sprays but the gloss of filler cannot be removed thank you
Hello Brad, I got some of the H. Behlen Vinyl Sealer through your link to seal up the Mahogany back of the guitar before I put down a base coat of Rustoleum Enamel. I'm spraying with a Campbell Hausfeld HPLV spray gun. Can I use regular Laquer Thinner for clean up and as a thinner if I need it? The Vinyl Sealer seems pretty thin, but what do you recommend, should I thin it? If so, what ratio do you recommend?
There’s no need to thin it. That 1.4mm nozzle should handle it just fine. With mahogany it may take a couple extra coats. Mahogany tends to be pretty thirsty. Lacquer thinner will do just fine for cleanup.
Your videos have been so helpful! Went to buy Behlen Vinyl Sealer Aerosol to support you, and it's unavailable. Just a head's up. Thanks for all the great info!
I'm working on a guitar with a gold/copper leaf finish and trying to figure out what / how to put a clear coat on it. Its an oil-based size (adhesive) under the leaf so my understanding is lacquers won't work. The surface is also not "smooth" as the leafing has ridges and tears in between the pieces (looks very cool like a relic finish checking) but its also a metal surface at the end of the day. Should I go straight to something like the USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol or maybe shellac first...? Any suggestions appreciated! I've learned tons from your channel so thanks for what you do!
Just today I found myself in a pickle. I needed, what I thought is, a "primer", for some woodworking project. Since I am in Japan, they didn't know the term, so I tried to ask differently by explaining in bad Japanese that I need to have a coat of "paint" that is not real paint, before I can apply real paint. They understood and directed me to the section where they have different brands and kinds of sealers. Which confused me. But this video, thank you Brad, cleared that up. BigBigBig 👍 👍 👍
Hey Brad, started a project with a MIM tele and have all the polyester paint stripped. I want to do a nitro finish so over time the more i use it, the more it will wear. What sealer, paint, and gloss would you recommend? For reference i would like it to look like Brad Paisley's signature fender model after a while of playing.
no i want a surf green finish but down the road when the nitro finish wear away i want it to wear down to wood, like brad's model already is. I don't want to relic it, i want it to wear with time.
My sealer of choice is the vinyl sealer from Behlen. Their stringed instrument lacquer would be my first choice for the clear as well. The issue is finding the green. I imagine reranch or colortone would have it in cans.
I’ll be doing that video soon haha. Grain filler is a paste for filling in wider open grain. Sealer is basically thicker paint that fills in tiny pores and sealed everything smooth. Grain filler is not a coating.
I have a brand new alder guitar body that I want to spray paint. I do not want to have the wood grain visible, hence I 'm going to use a primer before the main paint. However, I 'm still confused whether I need to use a sanding sealer or not before the primer. I 'd appreciate any feedback on this. Thanks!
Are white enamel primers compatible with urethane-based color coats? I had an automotive paint supplier mix me a pearl color in an aerosol can, it requires a white primer underneath in order for the color to look right. Most of the 2k and high-fill automotive primers are grey, while the type of flat white primer I need is typically available as a Krylon/Rustoleum/Duplicolor can. I assume those products are mostly enamels. If I give the primer plenty of time to dry, can I apply a urethane over top of it? Thanks.
hello brad, are water sealers the same as other types in terms of rigidity and stiffness to build under final finish? and will any type of clear finish adhere to it or do i am strict to water based finishes. thanks in advance
They should harden up to a similar degree. They are just slower. If you let them dry 100% and sand lightly most finishes should be able to stick to them, but their designed to work with the water borne finishes.
I have a hard time getting paint to work on metal... I read about conversion coatings and metal prep but a guy at a local paint shop said using 2k epoxy will stick to metal... do you have any tips on clean non rusted metal? Should I just be using spray can primer? Self etching primer? This does not seem like an obvious question. Spray can pimer works but... it does relatively easily de laminate.
@@BradAngove 2k epoxy over the self etch? Sorry to ask so many question.. the web really does not give a straight answer on this stuff. Can you just use rust oleum primer over rust oleum self etch and then rust oleum paint? I asked the guy at the shop about metal prep and conversion coats, he pretty much said self etch and conversion coating is old style and now days people use 2k epoxy instead. Awesomely they carry all the spraymax 2k stuff there.
Sorry, the 2K epoxy primer does not need to go over etch primer. It basically is self etching. I have never tried rustoleum over it. But rustoleum painters touch is acrylic, so I would be surprised if it didn’t work.
Hard to believe but that polyurethane I told you about from well into last week if still not dry. Looks like I'm going with the Nitro to seal in my headstock logo
I am planning on having a friend “burn” a strat body with a torch. (He makes wooden signs/flags like this).Then, I wanted to spray an antique white that would allow the burn to show through. Is this possible? If so, any recommendations on sealer, paint, etc.?
It’s possible. I would use Mohawk vinyl sealer and then their classic instrument lacquer. I would over reduce the lacquer slightly and add less white pigment than usual.
I’m trying to paint a grill on my Lexus what sealer primer I need to use before I paint it? Do I need to sand it before putting the sealer? Thanks in advance!
I am using a Feather- rite auto body filler on cabinets, what primer should I use on top of the body filler as a primer. My finish paint is Sherwin Williams - emerald urethane trim enamel, thank you.
So what's your favorite 2k catalyzed primer? I've got the tools to use the stuff safely, just need a recommendation on what to use for my first attempt with my new turbine sprayer. I'm leaning towards using HOK KD3000 since it's easy to find, but I've seen good things about SPI which seems to be much cheaper
Hi Brad,,,,how r U and tanx 4 da video...I'm going to be spaying some wood panels....Like those fancy euro kitchen cabinets..and want to use automotive paint and lacquer,,,,,due to it's pallet of wide range of colors...I'm I going with a (Catalyzed Epoxy Primer or SEALER)...and for the clear coat can I use the automotive stuff or do you have another suggestion..>>>???
Sir, So for painting a bike, i have to first sand the surface, remove rust and stuff. Then i gotta put an oil primer (any primer), let it dry and then paint it using spray paint. Then, 3 coats later, i gotta use a clear coat. Am i right?
I have some 1:1 ratio DTM primer/activator going over OEM 1966 VW paint, body filler, bare metal. How much reducer should I add to transform it to a sealer? Thanks.
Is their a sealer that can protect and easily clean an exterior paint color?? I have a fence painted white and my tree keeps dropping stuff on it and the paint gets stained and it can't be cleaned it has to be repainted.
There isn’t really one that would be appropriate for a fence. It would be way too expensive. Maybe try just getting a brush on poly to put over the paint in the problem area.
Hi Brad, i'm trying to refinish my guitar and i need to apply a primer, but when i spray it it seems to "crack" on the imperfections of the wood... shouldn't it work the opposite? Is it not supposed to fill the imperfections?
I like to use primer on wood when i have to do conversions. like when moving pickup holes and filling. I like the way it sands and really hides the filler, makes it really nice and flat between the fills. :)
@@BradAngove i noticed when i spray sealer over primer (admittedly, its cheap primer from a rattlecan), specifically where things have been filled, it has a chemical reaction which causes the filler to swell even after primer Doesnt happen when primer is used alone or when sealer is used alone, or where the filler isnt present. Quiet strange. Just thought i should mention this
So ... i can spray an Automotive (grey) etching epoxy primer directly onto the wood of the guitar (then sand at 600 grit) ? I'm planning on using Base coats and catalyzed 2K automotive clear coat in the end.
@@BradAngove Sorry I dont know how to answer that. I am doing my first build and i just finished putting my 5 coat a sealer. now i am in the market for spray gun. but as far as buying a mixing paint im clueless for guitars
I would use one of the solvent based spray dealers like the vinyl sealer that I recommended here. My old demo of the qualalacq lacquer sanding sealer was done directly over the water-based crimson stains.
Hey man I'm a little frustrated here, couple years ago I bought a brand new bumper which is polyurethane, had somebody paint it and it's peeling all over the place so I'm going to redo it. I'm going to sand everything back to plastic, use adhesion promoter . Besides the bumper peeling my extra frustration is I went on a forum and I've been doing some research and these idiots are giving me two different answers and they're arguing within each other. One guy is telling me use a epoxy primer so I went and bought epoxy primer The other guy is telling me if I have to do some sanding use 2K primer and they are arguing within each other. can you help me because I've been driving around with this bumper for about 2 years so I'm sure it's got paint chips. The epoxy primer I got is sandable but it says to put only one to 1.5 mm of primer It is also a sealer So I don't know if I should use the epoxy primer or 2K primer or both
The short answer is that both will work. 2k essentially just means a 2 component item. So a primer with a hardener. There is 2k epoxy primer for example. Anyway, you can go ahead and use your sandable epoxy primer. That’s a good option.
Behlen's vinyl sealer has been rebranded under Mohawk as their EZ Vinyl Sealer - take a look at the Behlen/Mohawk list at my amazon store link here to find it: www.amazon.com/shop/bradangove
Can you use the Mohawk EZ Vinyl Sealer in the spray can on a dyed guitar top and then use Spraymax 2K Clear Glamour over that? Hoping to avoid any unforeseen reactions between products. Thanks as always!
They don’t recommend it. I have, and it has worked, but you would be safer with an acrylic sealer.
Hey Brad!
Thanks for the videos! super informative!
One quiz for you... yesterday I put several coats of it (Mohawk EZ Vinyl Sealer) to my guitar body, so when can I start sanding and which grain should I use?
Thank you so much for your help!
How many coats? Generally I would say wait 3 days and then sand with 400 grit.
What would you recommend as a sealer for a solid mahogany carved top guitar that I plan to finish in an automotive acrylic lacquer for an opaque color and clear coat?
Love this video cleared things up a lot for us novice diy people
Thank you Brad! I was going to spray Deft sanding sealer before my color and go through the sanding process with a few coats, but I needed some clarification. You answered my question; so I don't have to put primer on top of the sanding sealer. You've helped me a great deal, and I thank you for that. Greg
Glad I could help
The product I use is Cat Lacquer. I am using Omega Primer, base coat and clear coat. After completing my piano job I had an area I needed to re sand through the clear coat. Should I still use my primer when redoing that area? Thanks Brad !
Not if you’re only sanding through the clear.
Thanks for these videos. You have helped me on a lot of technical questions.
This is good. Thanks. From what you said, an oil based poly can be applied over a vinyl sealer .... is that correct? I keep finding contradictory information about this. Thanks in advance!
I don’t think those are designed to work together, but I’ve used that combination successfully before. I just made sure I kept my first couple coats of poly very light.
Brad this is a God send upload. One question just before I go and pull trigger and get the materials. I need to paint fascia etc on my Tudor style house. They replaced pieces of wood with Cedar. So a sealer is a better choice for the outside then Behlen Vynal sealer would be a better choice for the outdoors before going over and painting it with Sherwin? Thank you in advance. I think you have answered my question I just want to double check.
Sherwin had their own compatible sealers for wood that should work. You may want to consider sticking within the same line of paint.
@@BradAngove Good point. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. I have a problem applying many coats of sealer (NC or PU, no difference) ends in a milky colour which ruins the crystal clear top coat from beneath. Do you have any suggestions?
That’s called blushing. It comes from excess humidity being trapped under the paint. For nitro you can sometimes get it out with a heat gun (gently) or with blush reducer. Using a slower solvent when spraying if you’re mixing it yourself can also help.
Hey nice vid! Is sealer a poly finish? And if im going to relic my guitar, what sealer should i use? Thank you for answering
There are many different sealers. Some are poly.
If you want to do a relic you should be using poly. Generally you would go with nitrocellulose lacquer sanding sealer or vinyl sealer.
Hi there Brad, to clarify, which one do we use on a guitar body?, sanding sealer or vinyl sealer?, cheers mate...Dave
It depends on what I’m putting over it, but I usually use vinyl sealer.
Brad, I'm building a 51 p bass pine body. Going to be Surf Green. Using Solarez grain filler. Should I use a white sealer to make green more brilliant after the grain filler? Using colortone lacquer...
Yes you can do a white colortone sealer or base first if you want a lighter green appearance.
@@BradAngove Thanks 😊
Hello, Brad
If you don't mind, may I ask a product recomendation from you?
I'm a father of two kids. We moved to a top floor of the old apartment in May 2021. We have been suffering from bad sewer odor in kids room since we moved to this apartment. Fianlly I decided to open the wall and fixed the sewer vent pipe, but it still stink.
Last thing I can do is to seal the wall and ceilling with some kind of paint or something. So I am asking what is the best ordor sealing paint you recommend to my kids room.
Your quick advice can help my kids health.
Best regards,
Carlton Kim from South Korea
Hi there,
This isn’t something that I’m familiar with. I would think that odor sealing has more to do with achieving an air tight seal than it does with the paint type. You might want to seal the joints/corners with aluminum hvac tape.
Took me some time to figure out I was right - Poly removed, sanding, sealer, sanding, Nitro - Done... THX!
Hey Brad, specific to guitar finishing, is there anytime I would want to use a primer and a sealer? Won’t using a. Primer cut down on my color coats? If using both, i’m assuming sealer goes on first, then primer. What do you think?
If you’re going to use both, then you’re right. I would do sealer first. That being said, I wouldnt bother using both generally because in that case your primer is just filling the role of a base coat. You can get that opaque first layer down without resorting to something as thick as a primer.
Hi Brad many thanks for this clip.
Let's take car body scratches/stone chips for an example - fillers are used to fill the gaps/holes; primers/seals are applied on fillers to provide adhesion to the paint. Is this correct? Or I could skip the primers and paint directly onto the fillers?
You have it correct.
Thanks for the info! But I'm in a bit of trouble, where I live (Chile) I can't find any vinyl sealer, only acrilic, can I use an acrylic sealer on a guitar and then paint with spray? Or should I step this part and use some primer in this case?
You can seal and paint with acrylic if you want.
The man with all the answers! 🙌🏻
Thanks once again!! ✌🏻😘
Cheers
Brad how many coats of vinyl sealer do you recommend? Also what grit should I sand the sealer with? Thanks
I usually use 3-4 and sand with 600.
Hey Brad, Awsome video man - I'm planning to paint a guitar body from bare wood, the grain isn't too aggressive and wondering how much better sanding/vinyl sealer (or zinsser stuff as seen in this vid?) would be for paint adhesion over primer? Planning to go oil based polyurethane base / clear .. unfortunetaly having a hard time locally sourcing sealer (automotive style primers readily available) and debating whether I bite the bullet on ordering sealer online or if primer would be close enough for adhesion / moisture resistance
Primer should be just as good from an adhesion perspective. The top coat should deal with any moisture issues. Primer is a good choice.
Thank so much man. Appreciate response and keep up the great work - these videos are game changing for guitar refinishing community.
I’m glad you’re finding them helpful.
Brad , i dont like you. You are young, good looking guy, successful and talented. What really bothers me about you is how down to earth and helpful you are. Thanks for all the videos !
That's a shame; I thought we were friends!
@@BradAngove That's because you Canadians are so nice.
For my truck which is a midnight blue metallic I said was gonna use a primer sealer but gonna use a dark grey sealer since my truck is a dark and not black. I have a color blender product now to blend in small spots with my paint where I had scratches at but will have the time to do it on the weekend and it finally gonna be in 70's more now in Michigan but moving to Texas before the next 9 months.
I've been researching primers for a fiberglass tonneau cover project with a lot of body filler for awhile now. I've found out that 2 part urethane primers are best for fiberglass. But after watching this video I'm not sure I need primer. Should I even use the high build urethane primer to help cover up imperfections and just go straight to the oil based hammered copper paint?
I’m not sure about painting fiberglass. I’ve never done it.
Really helpful video Brad thanx. Is there a certain clear coat that works better with plasti-kote acrylic sealer? Or ones to avoid haha
I’m not sure, I haven’t used that stuff. It’s not like plasti dip is it?
@@BradAngove I'm not sure haha, it's in a can and I wasn't sure if it was a internationally known brand. I can't find any details on the can or their site and thought I'd check RUclips (usually has the answer lol). No worries though, I thought I'd ask just in case 👊
Brad. I used the link in your video for the Behlen Vinyl Sealer at Amazon but the product is currently unavailable. I put it on my wishlist to be notified when it does become available. I love your videos. The tutorials are very helpful. I know you do a lot of good for a lot of people tuning in to your channel. Keep up the great work.
Thank you. I’m glad you’ve found the videos helpful and I appreciate you using my link.
We did our kitchen red wood table sanded down 220 400 stain with grey stain and sprayed auto 2k clear coat. That was 3 years ago and i have kids. The table still looks like the day i sorayed. I put 2 coats very wet and let dry next day sanded with 600 dry and resprayed. Came out like glass and super tough havent found a chip in it yet! Thanks for your vids!
Sounds like it worked out great. Glad to hear it.
I have a raw linden body and rattle cans of primer, gold paint and candy red paint - all acrylic lacquer.
After sanding, I was recommended by a guy here on RUclips to use Shellac as a first step.
I couldn't find the right type of shellac at the home improvement store. Instead, the sales guy managed to talk me into buying what is characterized as a 'water based lacquer sealer' for the first coats. After searching for more info, I found that it is generally not recommended to use water based lacquer under acrylic.
So my first question is: will it be OK if I just spray the acrylic primer onto the sanded linden wood guitar body, followed by the gold and candy red?
Or would it be better with another layer of something else before the primer?
If so - would the 'water based lacquer sealer' work? If not, what should I use as the first layer (the availability of various types of paint here is limited, not like in North America or Europe.) Thanks in advance for any pointers!
You can just use the primer. If you want to use something better I would go with a vinyl sealer.
Very helpful videos Brad! I'm a complete neophyte with wood-working, and currently starting a build of a Frankenstrat (raw Northern Ash body from Locke). Want to make sure I'm doing this right, but I've been told to do a light "sanding sealer" first, lightly sand, then grain fill, sand again, then another sanding sealer layer and sand again before beginning the paintjob. I'm using Dupli-color "perfect match". Would this Behlen Vinyl sealer be ok with the Dupli-color paints? And do I have the order of operations correct? FYI, I'll be relic'ing back to the wood in a few places. Thanks for any insight you can give to a noob!! :)
I would generally just spray 3 coats of the Behlen sealer and then let that dry for a day and assess if I need to do it again. If you’re relic’ing back to the wood you probably won’t want to do more than that. The you can sand that flat with 600 grit before moving on to your duplicolor. Start with your white to give the red a good base.
Good man Brad, I was totally confused as to the difference
One thing I've been really confused about after watching lots of your videos. Do I sand after different coats of different paints? Do I sand after I lay down vinyl primer? Do I sand after I lay down the Auto Air acrylic sealer before I put down the base coat? Do I sand in between layers of clear poly?
If you haven’t already, have a look at my video on whether you need to sand between coats. That will help.
In short: yes after the vinyl sealer, sometimes after the acrylic sealer, and for the poly you sand between sessions if you’re doing more than one, but not between coats per se.
Awesome thanks! I'll try to find that video.
Have you used Duplicolor over Behlens (Mohawk) vinyl sealer? If so, does it hold up long term or eventually have issues?
I’ve never tried it. I suspect it would work fine though.
Hi Brad! What would happen if I applied primer before the wood filler?
If you’re doing that then you should be using a glazing putty instead of wood filler. Once you prime it the surface isn’t really wood anymore per se.
@@BradAngove dang! I got excited, and sprayed primer without filling the pores. I think I got a lot of sanding to do. Thanks Brad!
You could switch filler types. Or just give it a try, but I would think there may be some adhesion concerns with the filler.
I Brad, I came across your channel and hve been enjoying your videos.
I have a question.
I wanted a surf green strat but found a used one of the same model in fiesta red for a great price in great condition and bought it.
I'm thinking about painting it surf green.
I found a local dealer selling nitro laquer in spray cans. They claim a long development process in cooperation with guitar builders/painters, and that it hardens really well compared to other nitros.
I'm wondering if I need to sand off the current/original poly laquer entirely, or if I could simply sand the red finish with fine grit paper and then spray over the red color.
Will the thickness of the paint affect for instance the bridge height or something else in terms of guitar set up and playability? Are their any other concerns?
(I only intend to play the guitar myself and enjoy it, don't care about resale value, also I don't have a strong opinion on poly vs. nitro, just this local shop has nitro for a fair price. So even though "nitro purists" could faint at the idea of putting nitro over poly, I just want the color)
Sand you’re poly to 400 or 600 grit and clean it well and you should be good to go. The old rule of thumb for cars was two finishes thick; no more. It won’t mess with your parts and playability, but you start to increase your risk of product failures when you add more finish thickness.
Thanks a lot for your time. Really appreciate it.
You’re welcome.
I have some pre-stain conditioner and Mod Podge. Can I use either to seal a raw body?
Pre stain is not a sealer really. Mod podge is pretty much glue, so I guess you could use that. Obviously it would make more sense to just buy some sealer though.
@@BradAngove thanks
Do you have a video on how to use a spray can vinyl sealer on a guitar?
I have a few. Take a look at my series on using behlens guitar finishing kit. It’s the same vinyl sealer as the new Mohawk ez vinyl sealer.
Brad, did you say I could use an Auto 2K Clear as a sealer, flat it and then that is ready for base coats and then more 2K clear? How long should I leave it on before flatting it, it will sink won’t it? I’m spraying a guitar neck, including walnut fretboard, with 2K clear to get a high gloss. I’m fed up with trying to use celly products right now, the weather is too cold and humid, I’m getting too much blooming. Thanks in advance. 👍
You can. It shrinks in a little bit, but that reaction is largely complete after about 24 hours for most 2K automotive clears. Then you can sand flat and spray your base coat.
How many coats of Behlen vinyl primer do you put down? How long after you spray do you wait to sand?
It depends on the wood type. Generally 2-3 unless it’s quite open grained.
I like to give it at least 3 hours before sanding. Ideally a day or two though.
Hi Brad, I use acrylic paint on metal water bottles and travel mugs. but the problem is that the paint peels off and I am not able to figure it out. For my case where i would like to use acrylic paint, I am assuming a primer plus a sealer to make it durable? What type of products would you suggest to make it dishwasher safe as well? Thanks for the video it's super useful to folks like me.
If you want paint to stick to metal you need to sand it first and then use a self-etching metal primer. No sealer required, but you’ll need clear coat after for durability.
None of that is dishwasher safe. For that you need something like a frit-fired enamel, and an oven/kilne capable of baking the enamel on.
One thing I like using a primer for - especially on wood - is to provide a consistent surface for the top color. I sprayed a white primer on my Gibson Gold Top finish for example. I probably didn't need to...but I think it saved on the coat count for the gold.
I think you might be right. I would probably have done a few coats of sealer and then a heavily pigmented white base coat. White has good opacity, so it works well for that sort of thing.
hey Brad, thanks for the heads up nice video! Quick one for you: I'm a bit confused now let's say you want to use stain or dye to create a burst, would you fill the grain with a grain filler and then apply the stain at first, or would you apply a sanding sealer at first and then apply the stain or dye?
You would need to do your dye work prior to applying the sealer. The sealer will prevent the dye from soaking in.
Hey Brad - wish I saw this video before I started my project. I applied primer - not sealer - to a guitar that I ultimately want a smooth finish. Can I apply sealer over the primer now?
You can still get a smooth finish from the primer. It fulfills essentially the same purpose.
Thank you, sir! Love your videos and work!
Can you please review my painting plan for a steel bike frame. Let me know what you think. I already picked up from getting sandblasted and has no paint. But feels like it has primer already so not sure what thats about. But here it goes....
1. Sand lil areas here and there to smooth out metal lil chunks around lugs & spray air to un- dust
2. Wipe down with mineral spirits and let dry
3. Spray rust-oleum primer filler & sandable let dry
4. Sand and spray air to un-dust
5. Another coat of primer filler and let dry
6. Sand and spray air to un-dust
7. Spray with primer sealer and let dry
8. Thin out oil based paint and brush on to get everywhere (around lugs, and double top tube part mixte buke) and let dry
9. Wet sand and wipe down
10. 2nd coat using preval sprayer with same paint
11. Wet sand and wipe down
12. 3rd coat using preval sprayer
13. Apply decals
14. Spray/brush top coat?
15. Wet sand?
16. 2nd coat top coat?
17. Wet sand?
18. Last top coat layer?
Im not sure what to do for the top coat part or what i should use. Let me know what u think pleas
That process is fine. You don’t really need two types of primer though. The filler primer should be sufficient.
You don’t need to wet sand between coats. If you are within the recoat windows when spraying you can do 2-3 coats in a row no problem. Even if you are sanding, dry sanding is sufficient.
Hi. I made craft sail boat out of Balsa wood. Do i apply a sealer or primer before painting it?
I guess it depends on what you’re going for, but as a general rule I’d expect a primer for marine applications.
Hey Brad what should I use what is the best to use on plastic I want to spray my bike
Plastic compatible primer or adhesion promoter.
I've got a sanded smooth guitar body, couldn't get every bit of the old paint off but I need to spray it a new color. It's as smooth as I'm gonna get it, but not being bare wood, what kinda primer should I use before paint? Or should I use something else first?
Primer or sanding sealer. It depends on what paint you’re using.
Question: If you were finishing a guitar with a Minwax penetrating stain, would you NOT use a sanding sealer? As opposed to using a water-based stain (dye) in which case would you use a sanding sealer? And would it be BEFORE the stain as opposed to after?
You could use a sanding sealer in either event. It would always be after the stain/dye though. If you seal the wood, the stain won’t soak in and stain it.
Hey Brad, question about clear primer for guitar burst paint jobs... I am planning on spraying a burst with Lil' Daddy Roth Flake Bad Azz Blue Kandy (comes in a rattle can) over a maple burl top wood that has been stained to pop its figure. I need help choosing a clear primer (ideally in a rattle can) that will work for the paint, but unpigmented so it does not obscure the gorgeous wood grain. Kiesel sprays a "primer' over UV-activated sanding sealer... I know it's a loaded question... maybe overthinking this
I’d say keep it simple and just use your clear coat as a primer as well. If it’s catalyzed then 2-3 coats should do the job just fine.
Otherwise a polyester sealer would also be a solid option if you have access to a way to spray it.
Thank you for your reply... very helpful. Looks like the guys at Oxford Guitar Supply Co have a nitro lacquer sanding sealer that may work well for this.. comes in a rattle can :)@@BradAngove
Brad, first off, thanks for all of the informative tutorial videos. I find myself getting lost in them (in a good way). I had a question about prepping a Solo guitar kit. I got a SG DoubleNeck kit. I sanded the sealer off, and then used several coats of Aqua Coat grain filler and sanded smooth. Next, I used a duplicolor spray primer like I saw in one of your videos. The primer still needs to be sanded, but I can tell that there are a few spots where the grain is still showing through. My question is: Should I have used some kind of sealer instead of the primer? I plan on spraying with a flat-black duplicolor. I will then look for some kind of clear, possibly one of the 2k clears that have a longer shelf life. Thanks for the info. I'd love to share some photos of my progress, if you wanted to see, since I am following your method. Mike
Sometimes primer shrinks as it dries, as does filler. It’s not all that surprising that you may see some grain through the first layers. Consider sanding back most of the way and then doing another couple coats of primer.
Finally stumbled on your video, thanks! I had used primer, but never a grain filler. It makes sense the way you explained it. Just doing a normal solid color finish, should I sand off my primer and go with a sealer?
There shouldn’t be any need to sand off your primer. Does the grain show through it?
in like one or 2 spots if looking really really close, but no bare wood
Ok, you can sand it back smooth and apply another coat to fill that in if you want. Then just move on to your colour work.
thanks very informative ,can you give me tips how to erase the gloss of wood filler on wood dents ,hole or scraches, i tried sealer ,sanding sprays but the gloss of filler cannot be removed thank you
I’m not sure what you mean by that. Your filler shouldn’t be gloss. Did you sand it before painting?
Hello Brad,
I got some of the H. Behlen Vinyl Sealer through your link to seal up the Mahogany back of the guitar before I put down a base coat of Rustoleum Enamel.
I'm spraying with a Campbell Hausfeld HPLV spray gun. Can I use regular Laquer Thinner for clean up and as a thinner if I need it?
The Vinyl Sealer seems pretty thin, but what do you recommend, should I thin it? If so, what ratio do you recommend?
There’s no need to thin it. That 1.4mm nozzle should handle it just fine. With mahogany it may take a couple extra coats. Mahogany tends to be pretty thirsty.
Lacquer thinner will do just fine for cleanup.
Thanks once again! Your videos are a great resource!
Thanks for watching.
omg thank you very much for that! I honestly was about to ask you about Primers, its like you read my mind!
It comes up pretty frequently haha.
Your videos have been so helpful! Went to buy Behlen Vinyl Sealer Aerosol to support you, and it's unavailable. Just a head's up. Thanks for all the great info!
Sorry, this is an older video. They have rebranded under Mohawk. I have a behlen/Mohawk list in there with several of those products in there.
I'm working on a guitar with a gold/copper leaf finish and trying to figure out what / how to put a clear coat on it. Its an oil-based size (adhesive) under the leaf so my understanding is lacquers won't work. The surface is also not "smooth" as the leafing has ridges and tears in between the pieces (looks very cool like a relic finish checking) but its also a metal surface at the end of the day. Should I go straight to something like the USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol or maybe shellac first...? Any suggestions appreciated! I've learned tons from your channel so thanks for what you do!
Go straight to the 2k. It should work no problem.
Just today I found myself in a pickle. I needed, what I thought is, a "primer", for some woodworking project. Since I am in Japan, they didn't know the term, so I tried to ask differently by explaining in bad Japanese that I need to have a coat of "paint" that is not real paint, before I can apply real paint. They understood and directed me to the section where they have different brands and kinds of sealers. Which confused me. But this video, thank you Brad, cleared that up. BigBigBig 👍 👍 👍
Hey Brad, started a project with a MIM tele and have all the polyester paint stripped. I want to do a nitro finish so over time the more i use it, the more it will wear. What sealer, paint, and gloss would you recommend? For reference i would like it to look like Brad Paisley's signature fender model after a while of playing.
You want that silver glitter paint job?
no i want a surf green finish but down the road when the nitro finish wear away i want it to wear down to wood, like brad's model already is. I don't want to relic it, i want it to wear with time.
Ok. I’m not sure who carries surf green. Maybe reranch. Either way, guitars don’t naturally wear quite like that Brad Paisley guitar haha.
Well nonetheless, for a nitro guitar what types of sealer, paint, and clear coat do I need?
My sealer of choice is the vinyl sealer from Behlen. Their stringed instrument lacquer would be my first choice for the clear as well. The issue is finding the green. I imagine reranch or colortone would have it in cans.
Thanks for this video! Btw, I wondered, what is the difference between a sealer and a grain filler and when do you use what?
I’ll be doing that video soon haha. Grain filler is a paste for filling in wider open grain. Sealer is basically thicker paint that fills in tiny pores and sealed everything smooth. Grain filler is not a coating.
I have a brand new alder guitar body that I want to spray paint. I do not want to have the wood grain visible, hence I 'm going to use a primer before the main paint. However, I 'm still confused whether I need to use a sanding sealer or not before the primer. I 'd appreciate any feedback on this. Thanks!
You don’t need sanding sealer, but you may want to grain fill.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad! Keep up the good work :)
What would be best for a diy plywood camper that I plan to shoot with raptor liner , should I go with a primer or sealer first . Thanks
How thick is raptor liner? I’m not familiar with it.
Brad Angove raptor liner is a truck bed liner and is pretty thick once applied , I think around 15 mills of thickness . Thanks for your reply
I think once you grain fill you can probably just hit it with that directly. Maybe a thin layer of primer to help it bind.
Brad Angove thank you man
Can I add some primer after sealer so I can see my nitro better when I’m doing my color coats?
Nitro primer? Yes.
Are white enamel primers compatible with urethane-based color coats? I had an automotive paint supplier mix me a pearl color in an aerosol can, it requires a white primer underneath in order for the color to look right. Most of the 2k and high-fill automotive primers are grey, while the type of flat white primer I need is typically available as a Krylon/Rustoleum/Duplicolor can. I assume those products are mostly enamels. If I give the primer plenty of time to dry, can I apply a urethane over top of it? Thanks.
That shouldn’t be a problem. Just give it lots of time to dry and sand with 600 grit before painting.
Can I use Sherwin-Williams white vinyl sealer on my ATV plastics before painting?
Probably, but I suggest you ask the distributor.
hello brad, are water sealers the same as other types in terms of rigidity and stiffness to build under final finish?
and will any type of clear finish adhere to it or do i am strict to water based finishes.
thanks in advance
They should harden up to a similar degree. They are just slower. If you let them dry 100% and sand lightly most finishes should be able to stick to them, but their designed to work with the water borne finishes.
@@BradAngove thanks alot.
I have a hard time getting paint to work on metal... I read about conversion coatings and metal prep but a guy at a local paint shop said using 2k epoxy will stick to metal... do you have any tips on clean non rusted metal? Should I just be using spray can primer? Self etching primer? This does not seem like an obvious question. Spray can pimer works but... it does relatively easily de laminate.
You need to abrade the metal first. I suggest 320 grit. Then clean thoroughly. Then the best bet is a self etching primer.
@@BradAngove I do all of that for sure... big time... isn't it hard to paint over self etching primer? I thought there was some major drawback to it
It depends on what kind of paint you’re using over it. It’s fairly common to use the 2K epoxy primer followed by automotive urethanes for example.
@@BradAngove 2k epoxy over the self etch? Sorry to ask so many question.. the web really does not give a straight answer on this stuff. Can you just use rust oleum primer over rust oleum self etch and then rust oleum paint? I asked the guy at the shop about metal prep and conversion coats, he pretty much said self etch and conversion coating is old style and now days people use 2k epoxy instead. Awesomely they carry all the spraymax 2k stuff there.
Sorry, the 2K epoxy primer does not need to go over etch primer. It basically is self etching.
I have never tried rustoleum over it. But rustoleum painters touch is acrylic, so I would be surprised if it didn’t work.
Great video! Super important information for working with different materials. :) Thank you!
Thanks for watching.
Hard to believe but that polyurethane I told you about from well into last week if still not dry. Looks like I'm going with the Nitro to seal in my headstock logo
Yikes. That’s crazy.
I am planning on having a friend “burn” a strat body with a torch. (He makes wooden signs/flags like this).Then, I wanted to spray an antique white that would allow the burn to show through. Is this possible? If so, any recommendations on sealer, paint, etc.?
It’s possible. I would use Mohawk vinyl sealer and then their classic instrument lacquer. I would over reduce the lacquer slightly and add less white pigment than usual.
What kind of clear coat would you recommend after the lacquer?
Clear lacquer of the same type.
@@BradAngove I appreciate your help; Thanks.
I’m trying to paint a grill on my Lexus what sealer primer I need to use before I paint it? Do I need to sand it before putting the sealer? Thanks in advance!
You sand and then apply primer before painting. Plastic compatible primer. I have a video where I painted the grill for an Audi I believe.
I am using a Feather- rite auto body filler on cabinets, what primer should I use on top of the body filler as a primer. My finish paint is Sherwin Williams - emerald urethane trim enamel, thank you.
Use the primer from Sherwin Williams that goes with your paint.
@@BradAngove In my region, I am not getting the sherwin williams primer, but I have used auto body filler, would any latex primer works
I don’t know. You should ask the manufacturer.
So what's your favorite 2k catalyzed primer? I've got the tools to use the stuff safely, just need a recommendation on what to use for my first attempt with my new turbine sprayer. I'm leaning towards using HOK KD3000 since it's easy to find, but I've seen good things about SPI which seems to be much cheaper
HOK and PPG are both great. I don’t think I’ve used SPI
@@BradAngove Awesome, thanks! I'll check out PPG and see what they've got.
Thanks bro for deciphering the sea of products and its uses
Haha yeah, there’s a lot out there. Thanks for watching.
Hi, can I used lacquer sanding sealer instead of lacquer primer surfacer for painting?
For under your paint? Yes, if you’re painting wood.
Do you have to use Primer surfacer before using primer sealer?
So if my car is perfect new and no sratches or dents on the paint but I want a new paint job for it should I use primer or sealer?
Primer. Although if it’s perfect you can just sand the current paint and go over it.
Hi Brad,,,,how r U and tanx 4 da video...I'm going to be spaying some wood panels....Like those fancy euro kitchen cabinets..and want to use automotive paint and lacquer,,,,,due to it's pallet of wide range of colors...I'm I going with a (Catalyzed Epoxy Primer or SEALER)...and for the clear coat can I use the automotive stuff or do you have another suggestion..>>>???
Yes, you can use the automotive stuff.
@@BradAngove thanx 4 da repy...
Sir,
So for painting a bike, i have to first sand the surface, remove rust and stuff.
Then i gotta put an oil primer (any primer), let it dry and then paint it using spray paint.
Then, 3 coats later, i gotta use a clear coat.
Am i right?
Yes
@@BradAngoveThank you so much ❤️
I have some 1:1 ratio DTM primer/activator going over OEM 1966 VW paint, body filler, bare metal. How much reducer should I add to transform it to a sealer? Thanks.
None if you’re able to spray it in its current form.
@@BradAngove Thanks. I was curious how to thin a primer into a sealer.
There should be no need. Sealer isn’t necessarily supposed to be thin.
@@BradAngove I thought the difference between primer and sealer was added reducer. Curious the benefits of each?
They are mostly just for different paint systems. And different applications like I said in the video.
Can I apply water based finish over the vinyl sealer ?
Thank you
That’s not what it’s intended for, but if you let it dry fully and sand first it can work. I have done it.
Brad Angove
Thank you
Is their a sealer that can protect and easily clean an exterior paint color?? I have a fence painted white and my tree keeps dropping stuff on it and the paint gets stained and it can't be cleaned it has to be repainted.
There isn’t really one that would be appropriate for a fence. It would be way too expensive. Maybe try just getting a brush on poly to put over the paint in the problem area.
So if I use a paint primer vs an actual sealer will the wood be just as water resistant?
It should. The resistance mostly comes from the top coat.
Hi Brad, i'm trying to refinish my guitar and i need to apply a primer, but when i spray it it seems to "crack" on the imperfections of the wood... shouldn't it work the opposite? Is it not supposed to fill the imperfections?
Primer is more for adhesion purposes. It can fill minor imperfections, but if you put it on too thick it will crack.
So I just bought "mohawk" sealer... but it says Behlen on the can... is this the same stuff?
Yes. Behlen and Mohawk were in essence the same company. Behlen was subsumed back into Mohawk last year, all under the umbrella of RPM Finishes.
If you’re using shellac for your seal coat on wood prior to painting, just ALWAYS use DE-WAXED shellac. Used the waxed and you’re screwed.
I did some tests on this with poly overtop and didn’t have any issues with the waxed stuff; which I found surprising.
Should I use sanding sealer before or after using grain filler ?
With the exception of some very specific finishes, you would grain fill first.
which is sealer is best for painting on glass with acrylics paint???
As a clear coat you mean? You just need something compatible with your acrylics.
Question i am gonna paint a diecast car red, what color primer should I use?
It doesn’t really matter. I’d probably go with red oxide primer just to help hit full coverage a bit easier.
Just gonna use a sealer the next time I paint instead of a primer but a black sealer. I used a gray primer last time but will use a reducer too.
Would you use sealer/primer when refinishing a guitar? Or would you just skip this step?
I generally would unless I was just changing colors and not removing all of the prior finish.
@@BradAngove I'll just change color. Probably won't sand to bare wood. I already have the sealer, tho.
You can still use it, but the original finish will also suffice to act as a sealer.
What sealer is best for Fishing lures?
Some form of epoxy would likely be best.
I like to use primer on wood when i have to do conversions. like when moving pickup holes and filling.
I like the way it sands and really hides the filler, makes it really nice and flat between the fills.
:)
That certainly makes sense.
@@BradAngove i noticed when i spray sealer over primer (admittedly, its cheap primer from a rattlecan), specifically where things have been filled, it has a chemical reaction which causes the filler to swell even after primer
Doesnt happen when primer is used alone or when sealer is used alone, or where the filler isnt present.
Quiet strange.
Just thought i should mention this
Do I need to use a sanding sealer if I’m going to use die on a guitar body, if so do I put it on before or after the die?
After the dye. The need for it is determined by wood porosity, not whether or not you’re dyeing it.
Does ash or basewood need sanding sealer after 2 times grain filling? Or should i straight away spray the colour and then clear cloat?
I like to do a coat or two of sanding sealer, but you can probably get away without it.
When should I apply the sealer is it before the stain or after ?
ruclips.net/video/jqJaJ2anL7M/видео.html
So ... i can spray an Automotive (grey) etching epoxy primer directly onto the wood of the guitar (then sand at 600 grit) ?
I'm planning on using Base coats and catalyzed 2K automotive clear coat in the end.
You can. A sealer is the more typical choice, but the primer should still do the job.
can you make a video from start to finish... picking a paint form the store then thinning it out to use on a spray gun...or even adding metallics etc.
What kind of paint store are we talking about here? Professional automotive paint, or like Home Depot stuff?
@@BradAngove Sorry I dont know how to answer that. I am doing my first build and i just finished putting my 5 coat a sealer. now i am in the market for spray gun. but as far as buying a mixing paint im clueless for guitars
all i can find are spray cans
Ok. You may want to check out some of my content on choosing your paint etc.
Thanks nice to have it explained simply.
If you're using a water based stain/dye like the crimson guitars stunning stains, how do you go about sealing?
I would use one of the solvent based spray dealers like the vinyl sealer that I recommended here. My old demo of the qualalacq lacquer sanding sealer was done directly over the water-based crimson stains.
OK, so it's stain first, then sealer and finally poly?
Correct.
What about grain filling too. Would it be stain, grain fill, seal, topcoat?
I generally grain fill first and then stain.
I have to paint plastic bumper I bough on eBay
I will be using plastic promoter but do I use sealer or primer?
Primer
Hi Brad. Can we use sealer to avoid stains on tee-shirt ? It seems we can't... :))))
Thanks for the explanations.
Hahaha apparently not.
So universal primers (the ones that say they work on all kinds of surfaces like wood and metal) are still worse for wood then?
They work, but they’re not really as good for wood as the specific dealers.
*sealers
Hey man I'm a little frustrated here, couple years ago I bought a brand new bumper which is polyurethane, had somebody paint it and it's peeling all over the place so I'm going to redo it.
I'm going to sand everything back to plastic, use adhesion promoter .
Besides the bumper peeling my extra frustration is I went on a forum and I've been doing some research and these idiots are giving me two different answers and they're arguing within each other.
One guy is telling me use a epoxy primer so I went and bought epoxy primer
The other guy is telling me if I have to do some sanding use 2K primer and they are arguing within each other.
can you help me because I've been driving around with this bumper for about 2 years so I'm sure it's got paint chips. The epoxy primer I got is sandable but it says to put only one to 1.5 mm of primer
It is also a sealer
So I don't know if I should use the epoxy primer or 2K primer or both
The short answer is that both will work. 2k essentially just means a 2 component item. So a primer with a hardener. There is 2k epoxy primer for example.
Anyway, you can go ahead and use your sandable epoxy primer. That’s a good option.