Tony thank you. I started out this hobby watching your videos as naturally suggested from BB. So once in a while i come back and let the TV make noise while i do my engine work. This time i noticed a simple gear lock to loosen, (or tighten), the nut. Put a double nut and bolt in the case and align it to the gear! Thanks for this tip again Tony
Nice job man I’ve took apart many cases before and I remember the first time I did it I was scared of breaking a part or screwing something up. But after watching some videos on it the process was easy and smooth! Great video
5:56 ok, this hits home for me as to why I often get frustrated with Creators like you and LA Hover, MotoredLife, etc. You all have super high mechanical skill, and also you have money and tools. Not to mention a shop, probably. this video at least has you using hand tools, which I also have, though my ratchet is real dinky. My point being, all of you guys build these really nice, high end, complicated mechanical bikes, when I just want the cheapest, most reliable method to get to work. It often seems like the motorized bike community is similar to the PC building community in this aspect. Viz: there is a disparate volume of info out on high end builds than on the low end. What can I build for the least amount of money that is bulletproof in reliability but not at all flashy? Can I even find 66/80CC 2 stroke engine that *is* reliable? And yes, I know I'll have 1000 people out there that will claim their build lasted ____ years, but do you have footage to back that up? Should I just abandon the 2 stroke and go for 4 strokes? I have a 212cc engine sitting in my den right now, along with wide crank pedals and a pully based transmission, like the kind you put on a go kart.I forget the name, but yeah, now it's just searching for a frame. I saw the BBR frame on Amazon, and it LOOKS cool. (the Faker style one) But it's also aluminum, which I dislike. I'd much rather a steel frame cause I can weld on it easier, and I feel like it would be stronger and cheaper. La Hover did a review on reliable parts, and he's mentioned some over the years also in passing, but I'd really like to see a comprehensive video, focusing on reliability rather than performance, per dollar spent, if that makes sense?
I have a felt faker as I finally found it as a running machine for $350. Another for $250 with spare engine and a bag of parts. Now my opinion of these aluminum frames? They're built for gasoline engines! How to build a reliable 2 stroke you'll either need to learn the art of porting your cylinder or buy 1 from a builder. This is the secret to lasting China doll engines. Made in China, modified in America
8:06 I have often wondered about the magneto's in these engines, and why you can't really generate very much usable power from them, and I had a thought, what if you changed out the stock magnets for strong neodymium ones and epoxied them in? Obviously you can't add more coils, space is an issue, so why not dramatically increase the magnetic field?
I think stronger magnetics will produce more electrical power...and nothing is free...so there will be less power to propel the bike... But a nice 50 watts more would make a great headlight...so you don't out run your headlights
2:16 the bottom end on the left looks upgraded, and the right engine looks like a stock chinadoll with a fancy "high compression" head. (I have that exact head on my bike.) Great cooling. Are there any internal differences between the two bottom ends?
I hope you're gonna show us performance mods like case matching Tony. I always say I have to do this every time I split the casr but I always forget and just let it run.
I think he does have 1 this yr. In the meantime, Hughes motorized explains porting with a cut in half engine. Shows the degree wheel, basics in porting in real time
Hello, nice video. I have a motorized bike with the older type 80cc engine. The ones with the small ½" cylinder head nuts. Anyways, my question is how can you tell the difference between a bad needle bearing/bushing that connects the piston to the rod OR if you have a bad crank bearing?? Because my engine has a slight knocking sound when I push the bike back and forth. This is of course with the engine turned off. In addition to the small knocking sound, the engine doesn't seem to have much compression because I can push the bike quite easily without holding in the clutch lever and the rear wheel does not even lock up. What is the problem? Please help.. thanks
0:20 why do this at all? when my stock chinadoll died, I just bought a new one. At 90 bucks, direct from China, it's not worth the hair pulling. I consider all these 2 strokes disposable motors. But you can try and prove me wrong. (without spending extra money.)
Ive been trying to remove the clutch nut for the past 2 days, ive used the biggest wrench and pliers i could find and that little fcker jsut wont loosen, ive bent the 3 pins like 5 times already, im scared they will break if i try more. The engine is 3 days old and the piston rings already shattered. I may just chuck it in the bin and call it a day.
Shame nobody ever helped you out. All you had to do was leave the plate with the clutch arm on, squeeze your clutch lever and then you could just unscrew the flower nut by hand
I can remember watching your original videos, seems like a million years ago! Glad your still around and doing well.
Tony thank you. I started out this hobby watching your videos as naturally suggested from BB. So once in a while i come back and let the TV make noise while i do my engine work.
This time i noticed a simple gear lock to loosen, (or tighten), the nut. Put a double nut and bolt in the case and align it to the gear! Thanks for this tip again Tony
I agree totally, having something put things in is a MUST.
happy new year tony . hope its a good one .
Happy New Year!
Nice job man I’ve took apart many cases before and I remember the first time I did it I was scared of breaking a part or screwing something up. But after watching some videos on it the process was easy and smooth! Great video
I hear you! It’s most definitely good to dive right in though and see what makes them tick!
Awesome.
great video . if i have to take apart my motor i have this video to learn from . great job . happy new year
Thank you! Happy New Year!
I see that you favor the socket Allen wrenches have you ever tried an impact that's what I prefer
5:56 ok, this hits home for me as to why I often get frustrated with Creators like you and LA Hover, MotoredLife, etc. You all have super high mechanical skill, and also you have money and tools. Not to mention a shop, probably. this video at least has you using hand tools, which I also have, though my ratchet is real dinky. My point being, all of you guys build these really nice, high end, complicated mechanical bikes, when I just want the cheapest, most reliable method to get to work. It often seems like the motorized bike community is similar to the PC building community in this aspect. Viz: there is a disparate volume of info out on high end builds than on the low end. What can I build for the least amount of money that is bulletproof in reliability but not at all flashy? Can I even find 66/80CC 2 stroke engine that *is* reliable? And yes, I know I'll have 1000 people out there that will claim their build lasted ____ years, but do you have footage to back that up? Should I just abandon the 2 stroke and go for 4 strokes? I have a 212cc engine sitting in my den right now, along with wide crank pedals and a pully based transmission, like the kind you put on a go kart.I forget the name, but yeah, now it's just searching for a frame. I saw the BBR frame on Amazon, and it LOOKS cool. (the Faker style one) But it's also aluminum, which I dislike. I'd much rather a steel frame cause I can weld on it easier, and I feel like it would be stronger and cheaper. La Hover did a review on reliable parts, and he's mentioned some over the years also in passing, but I'd really like to see a comprehensive video, focusing on reliability rather than performance, per dollar spent, if that makes sense?
Check out the BUILD IT RIGHT playlist I created for this exact topic of a basic reliable build.
I have a felt faker as I finally found it as a running machine for $350. Another for $250 with spare engine and a bag of parts.
Now my opinion of these aluminum frames? They're built for gasoline engines!
How to build a reliable 2 stroke you'll either need to learn the art of porting your cylinder or buy 1 from a builder. This is the secret to lasting China doll engines. Made in China, modified in America
8:06 I have often wondered about the magneto's in these engines, and why you can't really generate very much usable power from them, and I had a thought, what if you changed out the stock magnets for strong neodymium ones and epoxied them in? Obviously you can't add more coils, space is an issue, so why not dramatically increase the magnetic field?
Love that idea. You should try it out and let us know the results!
I think stronger magnetics will produce more electrical power...and nothing is free...so there will be less power to propel the bike...
But a nice 50 watts more would make a great headlight...so you don't out run your headlights
2:16 the bottom end on the left looks upgraded, and the right engine looks like a stock chinadoll with a fancy "high compression" head. (I have that exact head on my bike.) Great cooling. Are there any internal differences between the two bottom ends?
They’re both exactly the same my man.
Thanks for the help
I hope you're gonna show us performance mods like case matching Tony. I always say I have to do this every time I split the casr but I always forget and just let it run.
Yeah, we’ll dive into that for sure.
I think he does have 1 this yr. In the meantime, Hughes motorized explains porting with a cut in half engine. Shows the degree wheel, basics in porting in real time
Did you ever make a reassembly video?
Where's your reassembly video? Can't find it.
Hello, nice video. I have a motorized bike with the older type 80cc engine. The ones with the small ½" cylinder head nuts. Anyways, my question is how can you tell the difference between a bad needle bearing/bushing that connects the piston to the rod OR if you have a bad crank bearing?? Because my engine has a slight knocking sound when I push the bike back and forth. This is of course with the engine turned off. In addition to the small knocking sound, the engine doesn't seem to have much compression because I can push the bike quite easily without holding in the clutch lever and the rear wheel does not even lock up. What is the problem? Please help.. thanks
So then why doesn't the output shaft bearings get lubricated
It gets lubrication also.
Where did you get them solid rims
Those are mooneyes.
Thank you, Tony!
How mamy sheems Has crankshaft on both sides?
Why take the cylinder studs off?
wheres the assembly video?
I hate BBR and those stupid hats you wear but awesome video Tony
I'm not using my chin for anything while working on a motor.
0:20 why do this at all? when my stock chinadoll died, I just bought a new one. At 90 bucks, direct from China, it's not worth the hair pulling. I consider all these 2 strokes disposable motors. But you can try and prove me wrong. (without spending extra money.)
Cause some people like to tinker.
😩😩
For fucks sake stop putting ads on ads.
LMAO. He can't help it. RUclips requires it. And after x amount of subscribers and views, the ads pay the bills
Wish you would've got us to the connecting rod bearing!
Ive been trying to remove the clutch nut for the past 2 days, ive used the biggest wrench and pliers i could find and that little fcker jsut wont loosen, ive bent the 3 pins like 5 times already, im scared they will break if i try more. The engine is 3 days old and the piston rings already shattered. I may just chuck it in the bin and call it a day.
Shame nobody ever helped you out. All you had to do was leave the plate with the clutch arm on, squeeze your clutch lever and then you could just unscrew the flower nut by hand
#cruzebybikw