Those nubs sticking out on the bottom of the head are the same points that are tapped on the top for tin. They'd have been ideal for that fastening point you mention I think. I feel bad it took me so long to find these videos. I'm thoroughly enjoying watching them.
Thanks Oracladeus, I agree those raised bosses would work for that provided the holes don't create a leak. I'm glad you found us and are enjoying the videos!
Thanks Davy, sometimes it seems like if I took out the mistakes I'd have a really short video... I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for being here!
I really appreciate you not taking the easy way out. You could have thrown some old heater boxes on their to fill the hole or just attached the stock sleds to the j-tubes with some tabs like so many do but you went full on make the most of these beat sleds and then take it a step further and make them better! This is the content that keeps me coming back. No short cuts! In fact, long detours! Life's a journey, right? It is inspirational stuff as always. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Adam, I appreciate your encouragement- it sounds like we are on the same wavelength on why we love this hobby. Each day of a project is a moment in time captured in the outcomes of our decisions. Might as well make 'em fun! Thanks for being a part of it all!
@@HapticGarage I'm hungry for an update! I'm sure these videos take a lot of effort to produce on top of the work you are putting in on the bus. Add to that the grind of daily work and life in general and I can't imagine putting up quality content like you do! Just know that we are all ready to see what else you have to show us! Keep up the great work!
Haptic Garage hmmm.... if that’s the case, you can try making some on my engine with the crazy merged header.... there’s no template online for that one, I tried 😔 Great seeing you again finally!!
Appreciate the hours and hours it takes, your average Joe would never comprehend...and that Mrs is why your man is in his shed or garage for so long. 👍🏻🤙🏻
Wow, thanks bad91teg! I'm just happy sharing with a bunch of awesome people on RUclips, but it's even better if it helps someone with their project. Thanks for being a part!
Thanks Old Volks TV, we have to credit the VW engineers with this one but I'm kinda partial to this version. I think you'll enjoy putting a set together and I know your bus will appreciate it too!
I did very much the same thing..repaired all tins and hammer formed them to fit tight...I figured better airflow if all leaks were eliminated and all nut and bolts fit tight..so I welded what I needed...happy with outcome
I like it. I am running J pipes with my new sidewinder headers on my 71 beetle. i will also fabricate these extra tin pieces to get the heat away onto the road like it was designed. Thanks
You're very welcome Andrew, thanks for having a look! Good luck with the project, I like your approach and I'm sure your '71 will appreciate the efforts. Thanks again!
Great video as always; like you said Gene Berg has them for $7.95 ea but it’s great watching you manhandling the metal. The music on all your videos is killer too. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Thanks Ricardo, credit for the music goes to the artists that participate in whatever RUclips program there is to provide these tunes. I'm happy it's there! I'm glad you're enjoying it all and thanks for commenting!
Another enjoyable video. Maybe it's just me but the video quality seems better in this installment than previous. At my age, it could be that the blood flow around my eyes is better today. I get the feeling that the production time for the video is as long or longer than the mechanical time spent on the Van. It's great seeing you do two things that you love to do and are very skilled at doing. Thanks for leaving the "Uh-oh!" moments in the video so "we mortals" can still have hope. :)
Thanks Ken, it's always great to hear from you and I hope you're doing well. It's true a bit of time goes into the video process but that's OK, it's all part of the fun. Gotta leave in the mistakes to make sure there is enough video available for editing!
Hi Hapitic, Great engine and metalwork. the metalwork is as the old school performance, sorry for you the drilling a hole in the pushrod but things like these happen. Ok. I see you in the next video.Regards, HCS take care-
Thanks Hubertus, I had a lot of fun making these tins. Sheet metal work can be really interesting, especially when it doesn't have to be body work quality. Thanks for watching and I'll see you soon!
Great idea, I'm gonna make some. For that inside curved bend, you need to use your pipe anvil. If you want some real heat in you bus, install two oil coolers, one up under the dash, and one behind the axle, with a diverter valve between them. This also adds oil to your capacity....never a bad thing.
Hey Slades, thanks for being a part of the fun! That was bummer, but nothing major. We'll get it patched up and make sure the oil leaks somewhere else!
Good way to do it @manxdune I've safety wired one but this one seems to do well with pressure from the other mounting points. On a few thousand miles so far; long term results will be interesting. Thanks for watching!
Honestly and no disrespect I would just find some heater boxes. the space between the tubes and the heads allows air not to flow out the back as well. But if your running performance large tubes this would work. I would still not go there. performance exhaust should be merged system. and the J tubes go under the cylinders so again running these tins wont work. The best option is to go with type 3 cool tins. THey do work best for merged system especially. they manage the air better and get the proper amount around the cylinders and more air through the heads. I have been running these on performance engines. with air vanes opened up on the heads. Running 8.5 to 9.5 on a street engine without detonation pinging. even is near 100 outside temps.
First and foremost, thanks for bein green REUSE not replace. I dig the fact that u fix it, clean it, repair it, and use it. Ive never had a vw newer than 1965, but do to a bad career move and really bad advice I I sold number 41 of the vws ive owned over the years and now drive a 70 bay window. any hoo love the videos the bus and the baja. Try to say somethin nice about asia in ur videos and maybe mama will let me grow a beard!!
Thanks YoshinoyaJones! There's nothing wrong with a 70 bay- I've got an early bay doublecab and really look forward to that project. In the meantime, enjoy yours for me. It's not hard to say something nice about Asia with it's unique and gorgeous geography, but it's people are great! Thanks for checking out the video!
Thanks Vdub618, I was glad to find that template on The Samba. It's always great to hear from you- I'm envious of the colder temps you must be getting right now!
Great to hear from you Dan, I'm pulling for ya to get back in the shop and I hope all is well for you and yours. I bet you've got cold weather already. Thanks for the compliments and checking out the video!
The amount of time and workmanship for the tins are commendable . Are you using mig welder with low settings to not blow off the weld .What is the setting speed , voltage, wire size , gas pressure settings . My buddy is lending me his welder .Thanks !
Thanks erwinsm10! Yes, it's a MIG welder and the settings are very low for the 22GA sheet metal used here. On my 210, the voltage is around 2 and the speed around 20 but all welders and metals are just a bit different, so focus on the results you are getting and tweak the settings accordingly. A little bit of practice and you'll be doing great!
Thanks HCS, it's always good to hear from you. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and I hope all is well on your side of the pond. I hope your baby blue single cab is coming along nicely!
@@HapticGarage Thanks Haptic , here on my side off the pond is every thing going well even the progress of the Monday Morning Bleu.I`m in the final welding process and starting cleaning the chassis or the body work beneath for body protection.so I can begin with the preparation for future rust,Greetings HCS.
@@HapticGarage Hi Haptic ,wenn I`m done with the cleaning of all metal beneath.I will use only Clear fluid film called Lanoline or eventually Raptor protection.I will not use my VW anymore in the wintertime cause to much Salt on the roads I will also use inn the Hollow spaces from the frame work Fertan fluid was alternatively Owatroloil. and warm it up to the boiling point then its very waterly like and spreads evrey where in the hollow spaces..
Thanks man, it's always great to hear from you and see your awesome updates. Anybody reading this should check out your channel and the awesome early Beetle known as "Goose"! Thanks for checking out the video and I hope all is well for you and yours.
i'd put a slit piece of hose on the edge near the head , stop any possible rattle , and give it a bit more space there for air to flow. (the flex of the metal should clamp the hose to the head, letting air out mainly to the "back" of the engine
Thanks Chris, (spoiler alert)... after putting some miles on the bus it seems to be working well. You're right that we want the air all going out the back underneath the engine. This area is the last part of it's journey before leaving the system. It's hot and low pressure, and just needs to be dumped out the bottom clear of any path up or forward. These are fascinating little engines aren't they? Thanks for the comments and checking out all these videos- hope to see you again soon!
An easy alternative: When i junked my heater boxes, I cut out the portion of the outer tin with mounting tabs on it for the lower barrel tins and used those as heat shields/ air deflectors for the J Tubes. 10 minutes work with an angle grinder.
Great video man! Always good to see some good fab work and a bonus to see it on a VW. Think I may have to try those on my beetle! Looking forward to seeing more in the future!
Thanks Adam, let us know if you put a set together- I think it would be good on one of those awesome buggies too. There's more on the way, we have to get this thing on the road!
I somehow never watched this episode. Gotta admit the psychedelic video editing is a cool element. And dang you must devote days to the editing process.
Wow Zupper, thanks for the awesome comment! (I hope you enjoyed the rest!) We'll keep 'em coming as we get this bus back on the road. Thanks for checking out the video!
I thought just me dropped everything atleast once that im working on!!! Awesome video. The slow blues music while you were welding was nice. 2 perfect combinations welding and blues music. Bug Jam?
Nope, I do it too. A lot. And I bump my head too. A lot. Thanks for the compliment on the music, had some fun with it on this video. I think this is the first time I've used something that could pass as electronic music too, but the blues are a favorite. I'll see you at Bug Jam!
They're great for J-tubes. There is a commercially available version that replicates the one VW put on their "industrial" engines. The tins are usually labeled "industrial tins". Good luck and let us know how they fit!
Could I ask if there is a benefit to keeping the extension pieces as separates that bolt on rather than welding to make one complete piece? Looks great by the way
Thanks for the question cgi l! I think they could be welded, just check to make sure installation and removal would still be possible. Keeping them as bolt on ties into the stock design and may make reusing them easier. Cool question- I didn't think about welding it all together with the sled tins. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Slades VW! Yes- there are industrial tins available and they're not too pricey. Check out aircooled.net and geneberg.com, or search TheSamba for "type 181 industrial heater box delete tin" for dimensions. Good luck and thanks for checking out the video!
Hello Tony, I think you are referring to the Type 3 "Cool Tins". I have a couple pairs laying around but prefer this method because it works with the Type 1 thermostat when I am able to use it. Thanks for the suggestion!
Something I thought about doing for my project. Awesome work and I'm so glad to see you continue to push this project forward! Keep up The good work Haptic! P.S. I haven't been commenting on your vidoes as frequently as I used to because I've finally started back on my own project.
Thanks Vistable, I hope what you see here helps you make your decision on how to move forward. And no worries, it's always great to hear from you whenever you're able to comment. I'm really happy you've had a chance to work on your project- I hope it's going well! Keep it up!
Hey Soggz, thanks for the question. If I understand correctly, that sounds like an interesting mod. Keeping in mind this is all under the car and the valve covers help to cool the oil too, I'd want to be careful about trapping the valve covers between this tin and the cylinder head tin right above it. It's kinda tough either way due to how hot the exhaust is but your idea is something interesting to consider.
@@HapticGarage I’ve just installed some on mine,I haven’t gone to the lengths that you have,as I don’t have a welder,but I just thought about it,when I put them on. It may just knock a few degrees temperature off.👍🏾🛠
Thanks Zupper! I think tapping those two bosses on the heads to secure the industrial tins would be beneficial and could be done safely, provided that the holes don't protrude into the rocker arm area to cause another potential leak. Doing so would require careful measurement when drilling! There is a similar arrangement on the top to secure the cylinder tins, but you'll notice there's more material; VW avoided drilling into the rocker arm area despite the lack of oil pooling up there. The bottom is a different story where there is always some oil just looking for a way out. Sure, sealant could be used but at this point we'd have to ask if it's worth it. Spoiler alert- I've run the engine and things seem to be doing well in this regard. Thanks for the question!
Thanks for inspiration, my 1974 super bettle cooling better with this mods and i use type 3 cylinder blok cooling tins its very work for Indonesia hot summer😂
Dude! I'm working on the very same thing right now.. Having the same issues with the industrial tins they are just not fitting properly. Send me that template ??
Thanks KanesKustoms, I hope you're making progress with the tins. This is why I should update hapticgarage.com- those templates would be a great thing to share. In fairness, they fit that one engine really well but probably wouldn't a different engine quite as well. The approach should be fairly universal; try the poster board routine until you're happy and give it a go!
@@HapticGarage Well I pretty much scrapped the first set of tins not a huge loss as they were aftermarket. I scored two sets of OEM tins on TheSamba with all the screw-ups I made on the first set I think I have a solid plan of attack for these tins.. To make an omelette ya gotta break some eggs!!!
@@kaneskustoms6403 You've got that right! Keep at it and you'll have a nice set of tins in no time. Starting with used OEM put you miles ahead from the start. Good luck and let us know!
Could you drill and tap the two round blanks underside the head and extend the sheet metal upto the newly drill & tapped holes, making sure not to penetrate the inside of the rocker with the tapped holes. 🤔
I think yes, but as you mentioned you'd have to be really careful to avoid punching through and causing a leak in a busy oil filled area. So far it seems like the tins work well without being fastened here, instead relying on a good fit and the fasteners elsewhere. Even so, done right it could be a nice result.
Hey Chuck! I've seen a few PR tube protector designs that look like they would suppress the hot air flowing out of this area, so I'll say I agree that industrial tins could also serve as pushrod tube protectors. Thanks for watching!
Hi Hap, always enjoy your informative vids, thanks. I had a complete 1776 built in L.A. for my bus, complete with J-tubes, but I noticed that it came minus the lower tins, just the clip-in plates between the cylinders. I wrapped the j-tubes with fiberglass exhaust wrap, which seemed to keep oil temps less than 230F so far. I dunno if can even fit lower tins in place without the j-tubes removed....are the lower tines essential for proper airflow?✌
Thanks I Am, I'm glad you enjoy the videos! I think you'll be better off with the lower "sled" tins in place. They would hold some air pressure against the bottom of the cylinders and help direct hot air to the rear and away from the intake. Adding these industrial tins complete the strategy and keep things mounted securely. Congrats on the new powerplant, enjoy your bus!
So how did the 2 piece push rod tube work out? Curious, I just built a 1600, test ran it no leaks. Installed the engine, guess what a couple are leaking....I want to try those tubes.
Hey Scott, thanks for the question. So far, so good except for a possible leak on one. I'll need to investigate further to know for sure. With that said, I believe the stock PR tubes are fine provided the bellows have sufficient spring in them to maintain tension against the sealing surfaces. Of course all good standard practices apply; seams up, clean & smooth sealing surfaces, fresh gaskets, endless double checking, tap your heels together 3 times... To put it differently, I'll be using stock tubes painted flat black on my next build because I won't be trying to avoid removing the heads. Thanks for watching!
@@HapticGarage many thanks. Btw, love your videos. I seem to learn something new every time I watch. Actually, today, it was so cold, really didn’t want to try to fix the leak. But I tried anyway. Once I moved the tin, I was able to rotate the leaky PRT. Ran the engine for a while, seemed to be better. Ran it again but we’ll see later.
@@scottalvey1787 Thanks Scott! I hope that resolves the issue. The fact that it rotates may indicate the "accordion bellows" have relaxed a bit, but hopefully the low temps have something to do with that. Thanks for the follow up!
@@HapticGarage well, it didn’t work. Seems less than it did but still leaks. BTW, its #4 exhaust so shouldn’t be too hard....lol. On the end thank goodness. I’ll try the Scat PRTs.
Bummer. It was a long shot after how loose the pushrod tube was but didn't hurt to try. I hope you have better luck with the expandable type. Thanks for the follow up and let us know how it goes!
Great video and it was nice meeting you at bug jam this past weekend. Question. You said you would like to attach the tin to the head. How about drilling and taping the heads on the bottom of the head just like they are on the top for the tin? It looks like the factory casted a place for it.
Nice meeting you too William and thanks for the great question. I think that would work well provided the hole did not go through into the rocker arm area- even with the raised boss cast in that spot it would be kinda close. It would be more secure but that would be a bad place to have an oil leak. So far it appears the tins are staying in place, so I'm cautiously optimistic. On a different engine, I drilled a tiny hole through a flange in that area and safety wired the tin in place. It works, but I like your drill and tap idea better if it becomes necessary. Thanks for stopping by and saying hey at Bug Jam!
Hey dude, what are those thing fan shrouds you mentioned? Do the fit without modification? I wanna put jtubes on my dual port engine I have on my 69 bus.
Hey Creature Teacher, the tins fabricated in this video are an adaptation of the Thing tins. There's a good thread about the original ones on The Samba; search for "Type 181 / 126 - Industrial heater box delete tin" in the forums. They are also available from the usual VW suppliers and typically listed as "Industrial Tins" because things like VW powered generators didn't use heater boxes. Should be an easy retrofit for you, good luck and let us know how it goes!
Great job and a bummer about the pushrod tube. Not a huge deal to take the head off and replace all 4 though. Glad to hear you’re getting rid of the yellow! If you did black, would you do it in Satin, Semigloss or Gloss? I’ve been trying to decide on my tins and would love to hear your thoughts. Vandemic is getting close to being a runner! Great work.
Thanks Aussie Beatle, this was a fun one. The pushrod tube boo boo stung because I just wasn't careful enough- kind of an unforced error but like you said it's not a huge deal. Spoiler alert- this became one of those "might as well do 'em all while we're there..." situations. Regarding engine/tin paint, I like flat black for valve covers, pushrod tubes, and the engine case because it transfers heat better than gloss (think 'built in oil cooler'). I don't see much advantage in using flat black for the blower housing, cylinder tins, and other bits because they transfer heat back into cooling air on its way to the fan's intake. But at least those parts would match the case and valve covers... This might be an unpopular opinion, but chrome is the worst possible because it reflects heat. This is more of functional answer than a cosmetic one, but that's where my head tends to float around. I hope it addresses your question! Thanks as always for being a part of the channel!
@@HapticGarage Definitely agree about the chrome and thanks for sharing your thoughts. The OEM paint on my tins is gloss, so I might do that again. There's s sticker on the top pf my oil bath air cleaner that i don't want to lose, so I've been hunting for a replacement before I paint. Vandemic was a great buy, 13 window in pretty good order is gold. Always look forward to your next post.
Thanks Aussie Beatle, and you're welcome! Good luck finding the sticker- it's those finishing touches that make a full restoration really nice. I agree about the condition of this bus. It needs some metal work but is really solid for a project vehicle. I hope all is well on your side of the world and I look forward to chatting again!
Yeah man, this one took a while! I went camping after the show this weekend and uploaded the video on campground wifi. It was great seeing you and Levi in our natural habitat among other Vdubbers!
There is one more piece to change it from type 3 tin on and around the piston barrels. Go to Mikes Fn Garage VW cool tin type 3 help your engine run cooler RUclips this is for you guys that live in the hotter parts! Check it out amazing stuff ! And he is a bundle of good information too !
Thanks Neal! I'm familiar with Mike's channel- he's putting tons of work into his single cab but I bet it will be awesome when he's done. I have a couple aftermarket sets of the cool tin to mess around with. I've heard respected voices on both sides of the discussion about their effectiveness. Just gonna have to try them for myself sometime. Thanks for the recommendation and for checking out the video!
Hey Backstreet Kustoms, try this: Go to The Samba website, click "Forums" and choose "Search". Type "industrial tins" in the search field and then click "Search title only" (this step is the secret sauce). Then click "search" and several good posts will pop up. Enjoy!
Hallo erstmal, ich sitze jetzt schon 5 Stunden am Laptop und sehe mir Deine Videos an. Ich muss gestehen ich bin ins schwitzen geraten. In Brasilien, wo ich lebe, gibt es am VW-Motor keine Heizbirnen. Also auch kein Blechteil welches das große Loch verschließt. Um einen solchen Verschluss herzustellen fehlt mir der Platz und das Werkzeug. Das wäre doch eine Lücke für Dich, oder? Ich fahre einen 96ger Kombi Clipper, den ich angefangen habe zum Motor Home umzubauen. Alles vor dem Haus auf der Straße. Ich möchte damit Brasilien ein wenig kennen lernen. Mal sehen wann es los geht. So, mein lieber, mach schön weiter und bleib gesund
Wow! That's great Christof. I'm glad you found the channel and have been enjoying all the videos here. VW made and used these tins on some engines, but I have only found them advertised as aftermarket parts from Geneberg.com, Aircooled.net, ISP West, and on ebay. I've never bought them myself, but maybe you could find a set that could be shipped to Brazil. Have fun with the motorhome conversion, they are a lot of fun! I just got back from a VW show where I stayed in my motorhome. It's a great way to enjoy the hobby. It was great to hear from you again, thanks for being here!
@@HapticGarage Ja, das ist doch mal was. Vielen Dank für die schnelle Nachricht, werde morgen gleich auf die Suche gehen. Hast Du eine E-Mail Adresse? Ich würde Fotos schicken.
Yes! Use the email address on my channel's About page that is labeled "For Business Inquiries". I'll watch my inbox for pictures of your project. I hope you have found a good supplier for the tins today.
Entschuldigung, hier ist das oben auf Deutsch: Ja! Verwenden Sie die E-Mail-Adresse auf der Info-Seite meines Kanals mit der Bezeichnung "Für geschäftliche Anfragen". Ich werde in meinem Posteingang nach Bildern Ihres Projekts suchen. Ich hoffe, Sie haben heute einen guten Lieferanten für die Dosen gefunden.
@@HapticGarage We all do simple mistakes...not abnormal or a big deal...when i started bending 35 years ago it was difficult to get it bent properly sometimes...everything is practice and experience....then it gets simple...if you ain't making mistakes ..you ain't doing anything... No one knows everything..
@Gary Mallard That motorcycle is an '81 Yamaha SR250. I've been riding it to Daytona for the decade leading up to Project Vandemic but now it appears the bus has taken its place. I've had a lot of great rides on that bike but (somewhat ironically) feel safer in the bus.
That looks tedious and time consuming, no one in their right mind would want to do that! So I must be in my left mind,looks like hours of entertainment sign me up. Quality crafting!..and subtle comedy!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Those nubs sticking out on the bottom of the head are the same points that are tapped on the top for tin. They'd have been ideal for that fastening point you mention I think. I feel bad it took me so long to find these videos. I'm thoroughly enjoying watching them.
Thanks Oracladeus, I agree those raised bosses would work for that provided the holes don't create a leak. I'm glad you found us and are enjoying the videos!
Craftsman at work! Good job and nice you leave in the errors.... We all make them! 😜
Thanks Davy, sometimes it seems like if I took out the mistakes I'd have a really short video... I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for being here!
I really appreciate you not taking the easy way out. You could have thrown some old heater boxes on their to fill the hole or just attached the stock sleds to the j-tubes with some tabs like so many do but you went full on make the most of these beat sleds and then take it a step further and make them better! This is the content that keeps me coming back. No short cuts! In fact, long detours! Life's a journey, right? It is inspirational stuff as always. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Adam, I appreciate your encouragement- it sounds like we are on the same wavelength on why we love this hobby. Each day of a project is a moment in time captured in the outcomes of our decisions. Might as well make 'em fun! Thanks for being a part of it all!
@@HapticGarage I'm hungry for an update! I'm sure these videos take a lot of effort to produce on top of the work you are putting in on the bus. Add to that the grind of daily work and life in general and I can't imagine putting up quality content like you do! Just know that we are all ready to see what else you have to show us! Keep up the great work!
Excellent work as always! Those have to be the best industrial tin fabrication I’ve seen yet!
Thanks VW Jawbreaker, these are fun to build. Kinda looking forward to doing another set sometime!
Haptic Garage hmmm.... if that’s the case, you can try making some on my engine with the crazy merged header.... there’s no template online for that one, I tried 😔
Great seeing you again finally!!
Ooooo a challenge! Borrowing from Ryan Luther here... it's nothing a little CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) can't solve!
Haptic Garage exactly! I didn’t have the patience or it at the time.
Appreciate the hours and hours it takes, your average Joe would never comprehend...and that Mrs is why your man is in his shed or garage for so long. 👍🏻🤙🏻
Thanks Jay Day, it does take some time but it's good time! Thanks for the support!
Labour of love . Long live the VW. Great idea, looking forward to see how it works.Cheers from B.C. Canada
Long live the ACVW indeed! They've been great, going on 2 years now. And I'll add they were fun to make!
Great example of patience and care. And a worthy result!
Thank you!
Thanks Max!
you knocked it out of the park with this video !!!!im sure you will help countles people with this video.
Wow, thanks bad91teg! I'm just happy sharing with a bunch of awesome people on RUclips, but it's even better if it helps someone with their project. Thanks for being a part!
That's pretty slick. I'm going to have to make a set for the bus!
Thanks Old Volks TV, we have to credit the VW engineers with this one but I'm kinda partial to this version. I think you'll enjoy putting a set together and I know your bus will appreciate it too!
I was wondering how I was going to resolve my tin issue. Thanks for the content.👍
Glad to be a small part of your progress, good luck on the project VolkswagenTube!
I wish I could hammer like that :-) Nice to see a craftsman working
That's my Go-Go Gadget Hammer (Sorry, 80's cartoon reference). I'm glad you enjoyed the video- thanks for watching!
I did very much the same thing..repaired all tins and hammer formed them to fit tight...I figured better airflow if all leaks were eliminated and all nut and bolts fit tight..so I welded what I needed...happy with outcome
Good work Redd Mann, I think it's worth the trouble and kinda fun anyway. Thanks for watching!
Really glad I just found your vids. I about snorted out my coffee when you used the metal brake on the tiny square of sheet metal. 😂👌
Glad to have you with us @badaxelbrewski!
I like it. I am running J pipes with my new sidewinder headers on my 71 beetle. i will also fabricate these extra tin pieces to get the heat away onto the road like it was designed. Thanks
You're very welcome Andrew, thanks for having a look! Good luck with the project, I like your approach and I'm sure your '71 will appreciate the efforts. Thanks again!
Great video as always; like you said Gene Berg has them for $7.95 ea but it’s great watching you manhandling the metal. The music on all your videos is killer too. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Thanks Ricardo, credit for the music goes to the artists that participate in whatever RUclips program there is to provide these tunes. I'm happy it's there! I'm glad you're enjoying it all and thanks for commenting!
great vids my dude, i very much enjoy the beat matching to the video and field sound
Thanks Mee, it's cool that you noticed!
Another enjoyable video. Maybe it's just me but the video quality seems better in this installment than previous. At my age, it could be that the blood flow around my eyes is better today. I get the feeling that the production time for the video is as long or longer than the mechanical time spent on the Van. It's great seeing you do two things that you love to do and are very skilled at doing. Thanks for leaving the "Uh-oh!" moments in the video so "we mortals" can still have hope. :)
Thanks Ken, it's always great to hear from you and I hope you're doing well. It's true a bit of time goes into the video process but that's OK, it's all part of the fun. Gotta leave in the mistakes to make sure there is enough video available for editing!
Hi Hapitic, Great engine and metalwork. the metalwork is as the old school performance, sorry for you the drilling a hole in the pushrod but things like these happen. Ok. I see you in the next video.Regards, HCS take care-
Thanks Hubertus, I had a lot of fun making these tins. Sheet metal work can be really interesting, especially when it doesn't have to be body work quality. Thanks for watching and I'll see you soon!
Great idea, I'm gonna make some.
For that inside curved bend, you need to use your pipe anvil.
If you want some real heat in you bus, install two oil coolers, one up under the dash, and one behind the axle, with a diverter valve between them. This also adds oil to your capacity....never a bad thing.
Thanks Frank, interesting idea. Heat is a problem here in Florida- there's too much of it! Good luck on your project and let us know how it goes!
I like to see you videos you’re making good jobs thank you
Thanks John!
Oh Man , you are such an inspiration i had to make a J tube tin and i did it
Great work Nisrine, glad you were able to make it happen. Keep it up!
Outstanding video and great fabric work. Bummer at the end with the push rod tube. Subscribed!
Hey Slades, thanks for being a part of the fun! That was bummer, but nothing major. We'll get it patched up and make sure the oil leaks somewhere else!
@@HapticGarage Happy to be here. I was on the phone with Gary...VW Jawbreaker today, and he guided me over. Glad he did!
I did this mod on my Manx several years back, I put bolts into the lugs on the bottom of the heads to attach the plate.
Good way to do it @manxdune I've safety wired one but this one seems to do well with pressure from the other mounting points. On a few thousand miles so far; long term results will be interesting. Thanks for watching!
Honestly and no disrespect I would just find some heater boxes. the space between the tubes and the heads allows air not to flow out the back as well. But if your running performance large tubes this would work. I would still not go there. performance exhaust should be merged system. and the J tubes go under the cylinders so again running these tins wont work. The best option is to go with type 3 cool tins. THey do work best for merged system especially. they manage the air better and get the proper amount around the cylinders and more air through the heads. I have been running these on performance engines. with air vanes opened up on the heads. Running 8.5 to 9.5 on a street engine without detonation pinging. even is near 100 outside temps.
Hey Mike, no disrespect taken; thanks for your input. I'm happy with the approach on this engine but it will be fun to try out the cool tin sometime.
First and foremost, thanks for bein green REUSE not replace. I dig the fact that u fix it, clean it, repair it, and use it. Ive never had a vw newer than 1965, but do to a bad career move and really bad advice I I sold number 41 of the vws ive owned over the years and now drive a 70 bay window. any hoo love the videos the bus and the baja. Try to say somethin nice about asia in ur videos and maybe mama will let me grow a beard!!
Thanks YoshinoyaJones! There's nothing wrong with a 70 bay- I've got an early bay doublecab and really look forward to that project. In the meantime, enjoy yours for me. It's not hard to say something nice about Asia with it's unique and gorgeous geography, but it's people are great! Thanks for checking out the video!
More fun with cooling tins! Great job, your video quality just keeps getting better!
Thanks Nutt Farm, that's really encouraging! I think we're all set with these cooling tins except for paint. On to the next thing!
Awesome! really like how you adapted that template. Better fit and form for sure
Thanks Vdub618, I was glad to find that template on The Samba. It's always great to hear from you- I'm envious of the colder temps you must be getting right now!
Great video! Very satisfying to watch too! Gonna do this for my bug soon. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Kirk! Best of luck on your project- this is a fun one. Let us know how it turns out!
Good to see you back in the garage. My goal to get back in the garage by the end of the month. Great fab work and showing how to be creative.
Great to hear from you Dan, I'm pulling for ya to get back in the shop and I hope all is well for you and yours. I bet you've got cold weather already. Thanks for the compliments and checking out the video!
The amount of time and workmanship for the tins are commendable . Are you using mig welder with low settings to not blow off the weld .What is the setting speed , voltage, wire size , gas pressure settings . My buddy is lending me his welder .Thanks !
Thanks erwinsm10! Yes, it's a MIG welder and the settings are very low for the 22GA sheet metal used here. On my 210, the voltage is around 2 and the speed around 20 but all welders and metals are just a bit different, so focus on the results you are getting and tweak the settings accordingly. A little bit of practice and you'll be doing great!
Stumbled across your vid. great video. 💡
Thanks for checking us out Yonks85, it's great to have you with us!
Nice job
Thanks Claton!
Hy Haptic , once more a good and informative video, with exelent metalwork and forming. Keep up the good work,Greetings.HCS
Thanks HCS, it's always good to hear from you. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos and I hope all is well on your side of the pond. I hope your baby blue single cab is coming along nicely!
@@HapticGarage Thanks Haptic , here on my side off the pond is every thing going well even the progress of the Monday Morning Bleu.I`m in the final welding process and starting cleaning the chassis or the body work beneath for body protection.so I can begin with the preparation for future rust,Greetings HCS.
Cool stuff HCS, I'm glad you're making good progress. What do you use for undercoating?
@@HapticGarage Hi Haptic ,wenn I`m done with the cleaning of all metal beneath.I will use only Clear fluid film called Lanoline or eventually Raptor protection.I will not use my VW anymore in the wintertime cause to much Salt on the roads I will also use inn the Hollow spaces from the frame work Fertan fluid was alternatively Owatroloil. and warm it up to the boiling point then its very waterly like and spreads evrey where in the hollow spaces..
Simply Excelent 😃👍
Thanks David!
hello man good to see you again im very impressed with your metal work also like your music !! keep it up buddy !!
Thanks Rolf, I'm glad you're enjoying the videos- there's more on the way. Thanks for the support!
Just love watching you work man!! another fantastic video brother!
Thanks man, it's always great to hear from you and see your awesome updates. Anybody reading this should check out your channel and the awesome early Beetle known as "Goose"! Thanks for checking out the video and I hope all is well for you and yours.
i'd put a slit piece of hose on the edge near the head , stop any possible rattle , and give it a bit more space there for air to flow. (the flex of the metal should clamp the hose to the head, letting air out mainly to the "back" of the engine
Thanks Chris, (spoiler alert)... after putting some miles on the bus it seems to be working well. You're right that we want the air all going out the back underneath the engine. This area is the last part of it's journey before leaving the system. It's hot and low pressure, and just needs to be dumped out the bottom clear of any path up or forward. These are fascinating little engines aren't they? Thanks for the comments and checking out all these videos- hope to see you again soon!
An easy alternative: When i junked my heater boxes, I cut out the portion of the outer tin with mounting tabs on it for the lower barrel tins and used those as heat shields/ air deflectors for the J Tubes. 10 minutes work with an angle grinder.
Hey Martin, thanks for the tip!
@@HapticGarage No worries mate! Keep up the good work and great craftsmanship, you've got some skills there for sure.
Try using flap discs on your 4 1/2” grinder to smooth out your mig welds. It removes the extra metal faster and leaves a smoother surface!
Thanks Mra Mra, yes, I keep a flap disc on a grinder all the time for that reason. Good tip!
another great video and editing job!! can't wait to see this thing on the road!
Thanks Levi, I couldn't agree more! It was great seeing you and your Pops over the weekend, we'll see you again soon!
Great video man! Always good to see some good fab work and a bonus to see it on a VW. Think I may have to try those on my beetle! Looking forward to seeing more in the future!
Thanks Adam, let us know if you put a set together- I think it would be good on one of those awesome buggies too. There's more on the way, we have to get this thing on the road!
I somehow never watched this episode. Gotta admit the psychedelic video editing is a cool element. And dang you must devote days to the editing process.
Thanks Greg, sometimes the crazy ideas are the most fun (even if a little time consuming). Glad you found it and thanks for being so supportive!
Still an incredibly entertaining, nuts and bolts but also detailed video.
Hey man nice job on the tins!
Thanks Torkwerks! I've checked out a couple of your videos- I like your attention to detail!
Haptic Garage hey thanks man! I really appreciate that!
Dude, not even through the vid yet and damn! You have some sweet editing!
Wow Zupper, thanks for the awesome comment! (I hope you enjoyed the rest!) We'll keep 'em coming as we get this bus back on the road. Thanks for checking out the video!
I thought just me dropped everything atleast once that im working on!!!
Awesome video. The slow blues music while you were welding was nice. 2 perfect combinations welding and blues music.
Bug Jam?
Nope, I do it too. A lot. And I bump my head too. A lot.
Thanks for the compliment on the music, had some fun with it on this video. I think this is the first time I've used something that could pass as electronic music too, but the blues are a favorite. I'll see you at Bug Jam!
Wow very nice...
Thanks G, these were fun to build. I appreciate the support!
Oh man!! After this I'm looking trying to buy this tins
They're great for J-tubes. There is a commercially available version that replicates the one VW put on their "industrial" engines. The tins are usually labeled "industrial tins". Good luck and let us know how they fit!
Could I ask if there is a benefit to keeping the extension pieces as separates that bolt on rather than welding to make one complete piece? Looks great by the way
Thanks for the question cgi l! I think they could be welded, just check to make sure installation and removal would still be possible. Keeping them as bolt on ties into the stock design and may make reusing them easier. Cool question- I didn't think about welding it all together with the sled tins. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video!! I will be running j tubes on my following motor. Did you say someone sells those covers you made? I ne rr saw them before.
Thanks Slades VW! Yes- there are industrial tins available and they're not too pricey. Check out aircooled.net and geneberg.com, or search TheSamba for "type 181 industrial heater box delete tin" for dimensions. Good luck and thanks for checking out the video!
@@HapticGarage Thank you, I will definitely check them out for sure. I really enjoy your videos, very comfortable to watch if that makes sense.
Just buy type 2 under tins, I did and my 1835cc vw engine runs perfect, never overheats, neither does my sons 1641.
Hello Tony, I think you are referring to the Type 3 "Cool Tins". I have a couple pairs laying around but prefer this method because it works with the Type 1 thermostat when I am able to use it. Thanks for the suggestion!
Something I thought about doing for my project. Awesome work and I'm so glad to see you continue to push this project forward! Keep up The good work Haptic!
P.S.
I haven't been commenting on your vidoes as frequently as I used to because I've finally started back on my own project.
Thanks Vistable, I hope what you see here helps you make your decision on how to move forward. And no worries, it's always great to hear from you whenever you're able to comment. I'm really happy you've had a chance to work on your project- I hope it's going well! Keep it up!
Just wondering why you never made the top part over the ‘J’ tube a bit wider to stop the heat going onto the head…👍🏾🛠
Hey Soggz, thanks for the question. If I understand correctly, that sounds like an interesting mod. Keeping in mind this is all under the car and the valve covers help to cool the oil too, I'd want to be careful about trapping the valve covers between this tin and the cylinder head tin right above it. It's kinda tough either way due to how hot the exhaust is but your idea is something interesting to consider.
@@HapticGarage I’ve just installed some on mine,I haven’t gone to the lengths that you have,as I don’t have a welder,but I just thought about it,when I put them on.
It may just knock a few degrees temperature off.👍🏾🛠
incredible job! What do you think about tapping the heads and adding tabs? I'm sure you've considered it.
Thanks Zupper! I think tapping those two bosses on the heads to secure the industrial tins would be beneficial and could be done safely, provided that the holes don't protrude into the rocker arm area to cause another potential leak. Doing so would require careful measurement when drilling! There is a similar arrangement on the top to secure the cylinder tins, but you'll notice there's more material; VW avoided drilling into the rocker arm area despite the lack of oil pooling up there. The bottom is a different story where there is always some oil just looking for a way out. Sure, sealant could be used but at this point we'd have to ask if it's worth it. Spoiler alert- I've run the engine and things seem to be doing well in this regard. Thanks for the question!
@@HapticGarage if you figure a way to mass produce, I’ll buy some. There’s a market for it.
@@nittygrittykitchen Wouldn't that be cool?!? I'm focused on videos these days, but thanks for the encouragement... I like the way you think!
Thanks for inspiration, my 1974 super bettle cooling better with this mods and i use type 3 cylinder blok cooling tins its very work for Indonesia hot summer😂
Wow that's awesome @aryabharadaksa7614 Great work on your project, enjoy the cool temps!
Dude!
I'm working on the very same thing right now.. Having the same issues with the industrial tins they are just not fitting properly.
Send me that template ??
Thanks KanesKustoms, I hope you're making progress with the tins. This is why I should update hapticgarage.com- those templates would be a great thing to share. In fairness, they fit that one engine really well but probably wouldn't a different engine quite as well. The approach should be fairly universal; try the poster board routine until you're happy and give it a go!
@@HapticGarage Well I pretty much scrapped the first set of tins not a huge loss as they were aftermarket. I scored two sets of OEM tins on TheSamba with all the screw-ups I made on the first set
I think I have a solid plan of attack for these tins..
To make an omelette ya gotta break some eggs!!!
@@kaneskustoms6403 You've got that right! Keep at it and you'll have a nice set of tins in no time. Starting with used OEM put you miles ahead from the start. Good luck and let us know!
Could you drill and tap the two round blanks underside the head and extend the sheet metal upto the newly drill & tapped holes, making sure not to penetrate the inside of the rocker with the tapped holes. 🤔
I think yes, but as you mentioned you'd have to be really careful to avoid punching through and causing a leak in a busy oil filled area. So far it seems like the tins work well without being fastened here, instead relying on a good fit and the fasteners elsewhere. Even so, done right it could be a nice result.
Pushrod tube protectors.
Hey Chuck! I've seen a few PR tube protector designs that look like they would suppress the hot air flowing out of this area, so I'll say I agree that industrial tins could also serve as pushrod tube protectors. Thanks for watching!
Hi Hap, always enjoy your informative vids, thanks.
I had a complete 1776 built in L.A. for my bus, complete with J-tubes, but I noticed that it came minus the lower tins, just the clip-in plates between the cylinders. I wrapped the j-tubes with fiberglass exhaust wrap, which seemed to keep oil temps less than 230F so far. I dunno if can even fit lower tins in place without the j-tubes removed....are the lower tines essential for proper airflow?✌
Thanks I Am, I'm glad you enjoy the videos! I think you'll be better off with the lower "sled" tins in place. They would hold some air pressure against the bottom of the cylinders and help direct hot air to the rear and away from the intake. Adding these industrial tins complete the strategy and keep things mounted securely. Congrats on the new powerplant, enjoy your bus!
So how did the 2 piece push rod tube work out? Curious, I just built a 1600, test ran it no leaks. Installed the engine, guess what a couple are leaking....I want to try those tubes.
Hey Scott, thanks for the question. So far, so good except for a possible leak on one. I'll need to investigate further to know for sure. With that said, I believe the stock PR tubes are fine provided the bellows have sufficient spring in them to maintain tension against the sealing surfaces. Of course all good standard practices apply; seams up, clean & smooth sealing surfaces, fresh gaskets, endless double checking, tap your heels together 3 times... To put it differently, I'll be using stock tubes painted flat black on my next build because I won't be trying to avoid removing the heads. Thanks for watching!
@@HapticGarage many thanks. Btw, love your videos. I seem to learn something new every time I watch. Actually, today, it was so cold, really didn’t want to try to fix the leak. But I tried anyway. Once I moved the tin, I was able to rotate the leaky PRT. Ran the engine for a while, seemed to be better. Ran it again but we’ll see later.
@@scottalvey1787 Thanks Scott! I hope that resolves the issue. The fact that it rotates may indicate the "accordion bellows" have relaxed a bit, but hopefully the low temps have something to do with that. Thanks for the follow up!
@@HapticGarage well, it didn’t work. Seems less than it did but still leaks. BTW, its #4 exhaust so shouldn’t be too hard....lol. On the end thank goodness. I’ll try the Scat PRTs.
Bummer. It was a long shot after how loose the pushrod tube was but didn't hurt to try. I hope you have better luck with the expandable type. Thanks for the follow up and let us know how it goes!
Great video and it was nice meeting you at bug jam this past weekend. Question. You said you would like to attach the tin to the head. How about drilling and taping the heads on the bottom of the head just like they are on the top for the tin? It looks like the factory casted a place for it.
Nice meeting you too William and thanks for the great question. I think that would work well provided the hole did not go through into the rocker arm area- even with the raised boss cast in that spot it would be kinda close. It would be more secure but that would be a bad place to have an oil leak. So far it appears the tins are staying in place, so I'm cautiously optimistic. On a different engine, I drilled a tiny hole through a flange in that area and safety wired the tin in place. It works, but I like your drill and tap idea better if it becomes necessary. Thanks for stopping by and saying hey at Bug Jam!
Hey dude, what are those thing fan shrouds you mentioned? Do the fit without modification? I wanna put jtubes on my dual port engine I have on my 69 bus.
Hey Creature Teacher, the tins fabricated in this video are an adaptation of the Thing tins. There's a good thread about the original ones on The Samba; search for "Type 181 / 126 - Industrial heater box delete tin" in the forums. They are also available from the usual VW suppliers and typically listed as "Industrial Tins" because things like VW powered generators didn't use heater boxes. Should be an easy retrofit for you, good luck and let us know how it goes!
Great job and a bummer about the pushrod tube. Not a huge deal to take the head off and replace all 4 though. Glad to hear you’re getting rid of the yellow! If you did black, would you do it in Satin, Semigloss or Gloss? I’ve been trying to decide on my tins and would love to hear your thoughts. Vandemic is getting close to being a runner! Great work.
Thanks Aussie Beatle, this was a fun one. The pushrod tube boo boo stung because I just wasn't careful enough- kind of an unforced error but like you said it's not a huge deal. Spoiler alert- this became one of those "might as well do 'em all while we're there..." situations. Regarding engine/tin paint, I like flat black for valve covers, pushrod tubes, and the engine case because it transfers heat better than gloss (think 'built in oil cooler'). I don't see much advantage in using flat black for the blower housing, cylinder tins, and other bits because they transfer heat back into cooling air on its way to the fan's intake. But at least those parts would match the case and valve covers... This might be an unpopular opinion, but chrome is the worst possible because it reflects heat. This is more of functional answer than a cosmetic one, but that's where my head tends to float around. I hope it addresses your question! Thanks as always for being a part of the channel!
Haptic Garage 👏👍
@@HapticGarage Definitely agree about the chrome and thanks for sharing your thoughts. The OEM paint on my tins is gloss, so I might do that again. There's s sticker on the top pf my oil bath air cleaner that i don't want to lose, so I've been hunting for a replacement before I paint. Vandemic was a great buy, 13 window in pretty good order is gold. Always look forward to your next post.
Thanks Aussie Beatle, and you're welcome! Good luck finding the sticker- it's those finishing touches that make a full restoration really nice. I agree about the condition of this bus. It needs some metal work but is really solid for a project vehicle. I hope all is well on your side of the world and I look forward to chatting again!
@@HapticGarage me too
I wish i can attach pictures or else i would have published my tins
That would be great to see, maybe post to your favorite social media? Let us know if you do!
Yay, finally!!
Yeah man, this one took a while! I went camping after the show this weekend and uploaded the video on campground wifi. It was great seeing you and Levi in our natural habitat among other Vdubbers!
There is one more piece to change it from type 3 tin on and around the piston barrels. Go to Mikes Fn Garage VW cool tin type 3 help your engine run cooler RUclips this is for you guys that live in the hotter parts! Check it out amazing stuff ! And he is a bundle of good information too !
Thanks Neal! I'm familiar with Mike's channel- he's putting tons of work into his single cab but I bet it will be awesome when he's done. I have a couple aftermarket sets of the cool tin to mess around with. I've heard respected voices on both sides of the discussion about their effectiveness. Just gonna have to try them for myself sometime. Thanks for the recommendation and for checking out the video!
where cam i get template on samba to print off thanks
Hey Backstreet Kustoms, try this: Go to The Samba website, click "Forums" and choose "Search". Type "industrial tins" in the search field and then click "Search title only" (this step is the secret sauce). Then click "search" and several good posts will pop up. Enjoy!
@@HapticGarage thanks ill try that
Hallo erstmal, ich sitze jetzt schon 5 Stunden am Laptop und sehe mir Deine Videos an. Ich muss gestehen ich bin ins schwitzen geraten. In Brasilien, wo ich lebe, gibt es am VW-Motor keine Heizbirnen. Also auch kein Blechteil welches das große Loch verschließt. Um einen solchen Verschluss herzustellen fehlt mir der Platz und das Werkzeug. Das wäre doch eine Lücke für Dich, oder? Ich fahre einen 96ger Kombi Clipper, den ich angefangen habe zum Motor Home umzubauen. Alles vor dem Haus auf der Straße. Ich möchte damit Brasilien ein wenig kennen lernen. Mal sehen wann es los geht. So, mein lieber, mach schön weiter und bleib gesund
Wow! That's great Christof. I'm glad you found the channel and have been enjoying all the videos here. VW made and used these tins on some engines, but I have only found them advertised as aftermarket parts from Geneberg.com, Aircooled.net, ISP West, and on ebay. I've never bought them myself, but maybe you could find a set that could be shipped to Brazil.
Have fun with the motorhome conversion, they are a lot of fun! I just got back from a VW show where I stayed in my motorhome. It's a great way to enjoy the hobby. It was great to hear from you again, thanks for being here!
@@HapticGarage Ja, das ist doch mal was. Vielen Dank für die schnelle Nachricht, werde morgen gleich auf die Suche gehen. Hast Du eine E-Mail Adresse? Ich würde Fotos schicken.
Yes! Use the email address on my channel's About page that is labeled "For Business Inquiries". I'll watch my inbox for pictures of your project. I hope you have found a good supplier for the tins today.
Entschuldigung, hier ist das oben auf Deutsch:
Ja! Verwenden Sie die E-Mail-Adresse auf der Info-Seite meines Kanals mit der Bezeichnung "Für geschäftliche Anfragen". Ich werde in meinem Posteingang nach Bildern Ihres Projekts suchen. Ich hoffe, Sie haben heute einen guten Lieferanten für die Dosen gefunden.
Love the video and your excellent narration, but the music gives me a headache!!
Thanks texastomeh, I mix it a little lower these days and have more segments without music. Thanks for watching!
You need a type 3 under cylinder tin instead.
Hello Brian, I have a couple pairs of the type 3 "cool" tins but have opted to go this route.
You can do that bend ....stick it in from the front not through the back.... You use both directions on a brake...until you really can't do a bend...
Thanks Gary, it's one of those things that shouldn't be confusing but.... because human. Thanks for watching!
@@HapticGarage
We all do simple mistakes...not abnormal or a big deal...when i started bending 35 years ago it was difficult to get it bent properly sometimes...everything is practice and experience....then it gets simple...if you ain't making mistakes ..you ain't doing anything...
No one knows everything..
@@HapticGarage
What is that motorcycle...
Have just started watching your vids
Thanks Gary, you've got that right. Part of making progress is willing to be wrong. Thanks for the supportive thoughts!
@Gary Mallard That motorcycle is an '81 Yamaha SR250. I've been riding it to Daytona for the decade leading up to Project Vandemic but now it appears the bus has taken its place. I've had a lot of great rides on that bike but (somewhat ironically) feel safer in the bus.
👍
Thanks Vintage 76!
Or put heater boxes on and have heat!
That looks tedious and time consuming, no one in their right mind would want to do that! So I must be in my left mind,looks like hours of entertainment sign me up.
Quality crafting!..and subtle comedy!
Tweeker!
Get yourself a real air extractor when you're welding those zinc plated nuts.. it all adds up will give you brain and nerve problems.
Hi Daniel, yeah that zinc plating can be an issue. I eventually found a respirator that I use more often all the time. Ain't getting any younger!
Dude, wear gloves.