Amazon TaiShi 1000W 110V Magnetic Induction Heater Kit Review
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Today on Tool Review Fridays we are reviewing an Induction heater, or also known as EVE Screw Dismounting Device. Will this tool pass our tests or will we trade it for a different tool?
#amazon #taishi #1000w #110v #magnetic #inductionheating #toolreview #friday #mechanic #autotechnician
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There is misconception that you need to heat it cherry red for 30 seconds. You only need to start to see it get red and that should be enough. You're trying to heat the nut to expand it while keeping the stud cooler. This helps break the rust in the threads. If you heat everything to cherry red, everything is expanding together and you're not really gaining anything. What else can help is cycling it a few times as well. It is the action expanding and contracting that is doing all the work.
I agree with cycling it.
Heating both works fine because they will have a different expansion rate. The nut will heat up quicker because the stud is attached the the manifold which creates a heat sink. The best way is to get it red hot then let it cool down, add a little oil while it's warm then it will come off easily.
Spot on, also heating the fitting to a red hot state, will loose the temper of the fitting, if it needs to be reused😎
Well wheb you heat them both just as hot, the nut will cool way faster er shrink again@@maxconway4908
If I heat it then Mist it with a spray bottle of water to rapidly cool it does that help at all?
For studs: stack those two nuts that you removed in the middle of the stud. Then turn them toward each other, nice and tight. Now you can turn the inner nut and it will probably pull out the stud. If not, tighten them together more. Works 90% of the time.
Good point.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I’m sure you knew already. Just hoping a novice in the same situation might see it and learn a trick.
So if you use you're vise grips the other direction the teeth bite like a pipe wrench. Second tip squeeze the grips closed backwards in you're hand, so the side with release facing ur palm...much tighter for some reason. Test it lock them both ways and I will see.
"I wanna reach out so bad and spin this thing off".....I was thinking that same thing. I am absolutely sure that I would have burnt fingertips at some point using this thing.
😃😃🤣🤣🤣
You had the vice grips upside down for the direction you were turning!
A good and fair review, as these induction units do have their places. I own one, and have used it a number of times on an ISX motor and turbo flare nut connections, the turbo was cooked from a bad delete. Not a place I want to use a torch. These induction units are great for tight fasteners with limited work space. I am keeping mine.
I agree. We don't use it a lot but when it's needed there's no substitute. Thank you for watching.
Great vid and overview, but why'd he have the torch like 4 to 6 inches away from the nut? That was weird. LIked and subbed!
Hey Ron, thank you for watching. My assistant is still learning about things like this. At the time he wasn't sure how to properly heat a nut w oxy acetylene.
Then you shoulda told him to move it closer
One more thing I haven seen mentioned is that one fill for my big oxygen and acetylene tanks will cost almost as much if not more then the amazon induction heater.
Very true, didn't even consider that point. Oxy acetylene has its place. Induction heater fits certain needs as well.
Here in Maine I just paid $340 just for a bottle acetylene.
why wouldn’t you just use propane for heating the manifold? you shouldn’t need it that hot….
I just purchased this unit. When the nut or bolt is inside the coil it works extremely well. Heating the stud inside the manifold will take longer to let the heat travel down the stud.
Wind your coil as tight as possible so it works faster and better. More coils will generate more heat so wind extra loops when you can.
Appreciate your input. Thank you
I would suggest using the one wire that you can make (0:30) and wrap it around the ear of the manifold where the stud is screwed in. This will heat the larger mass first.
I was coming to say this.
@digitalis2977 same here, was just reading comments to see if anyone else mentioned it 😂
Thanks for your review.
Been thinking about getting one forever.
I live in a bloody tinderbox so using a flame most of the time is an absolute no go.
Think this has swayed me.
Nice one!
Always good to have a reason to buy new tools!!
Definitely get one, no matter what brand you pick when you need it an induction heater will save the day.
I see here that heating only the stud for removal would only expand the stud tightening the threads , it would probably help after it cooled .
You are using the grips the wrong way round.
I'm left handed, happens all the time.
Looks fun. For $175 maybe i can just borrow yours 😄
@@lily_is_awsome8453 if you're close by...sure
Excellent up to date review. Thanks for doing this. i would be willing to bet, if you got those studs red hot and then shock quenched them with water or a light oil, they would have immediately released.
Brilliant idea. Thank you for your comment and watching our video.
Hi Jon. My dad was a machinist and tought me about heat treating metal. If you quench steel, it hardens it...makes it more brittle. If you don't want the metal hardness to change, you would need to let it cool slowly on its own. If you aren't worried about the metal hardness and just want it apart, yes...quenching it will to the trick.
Just bought one of these today, hoping it’ll work well for bearing races stuck to shafts on Ag equipment
Great video, I just bought one of those, I can't wait to try it.
You are better off to let stud cool before trying to remove it ..Because the stud is captured in a cool hsg it cant expand there for it will shrink the stud and make it easier to remove .".Old welder trick "
Doesn't seem to be 220v so I think I'll get one.
This one is 110 volt
Thanks for sharing!!
Would I be doing much damage if I bent the coils somewhere in the middle at like 90 degrees?? Need to get in some type spaces
Not at all, I've had to twist them up quite a bit before. You'll be fine.
Just learning about these things. Thank you for making this video.
We appreciate you watching.
Heavily rusted? Those look like new compared to what I see here in rusty Ma. No way without a torch will the rotted fasteners come off the turds roaming around here, from my 50 years of professional mechanic experience.
If he put the torch closer than 4 inches away it may have heated faster lol
Correct, he's a noob.
Thanks for the info. At what point do you have to replace the coils? I notice the coil cover will turn brown with use over time. That isn't an issue but they eventually burn off. Is it a problem if the bare coil touches the item that you are heating?
Great question, we may have to sacrifice one of ours and do a test.
Eric O at South Main Auto said he used one with wore out insulation and it fried his induction heater. So if the wire looks worn, toss it out.
Your heating too much, once the stud goes cherry its too hot, put a drop of oil on and spin it off with a socket and drive. For the stud lock two nuts together on the stud heat to cherry red it will expand within the casting , put on the oil then as the stud cools and shrinks it sucks in the oil and gives you a thou gap to be loose. I have one of these heaters and oxy, the heater is 10 x safer but the oxy is 20x more capable
Don't use your absolutely most favorite wrench or socket. It can affect the heat treat if you're on there too long.
Copperslip, alislip, ceramic or other high heat soap/grease on threads after, heating and before winding off nut helps no end.
You could have fit one of the larger loops over the lip on that manifold.
You are correct, I did try that several times and couldn't get it hot enough to let the stud loose.
Good review
I was considering buying one for bending 5/8 stainless to make a sissy bar as I don’t have oxy acetylene . Do you think it would heat enough for me to bend ?
Thanks Marc
I would think so, it will heat a 5/8 bolt cherry red.
Just an fyi if you tur ed your vice grip the other way they grip better and have a better chance of getting something like that out. But in reality if you really needed to get it out youd need to heat the exhaust pipe with the torch. Thanks for the video though. Thinking about getting one of these Induction heaters like this
Ive got one of these, as other people say it helps to let it cycle a bit, when it comes to stud I use a MAP gas torch and blast the area around the stud as much as I can
Turn your vise grips around you had them on backwards
Touch a little wax to it and try that after you get it hot
Definitely good in the event of a car that stinks like gas but no visible leaks
I'm curious how much this tool cost as I am in the process of building something similar at the moment. However, mine isn't going to be a "gun style" but one that sits on my bench for misc heating of ferrous material. Also, I'm decided on adding water cooling through the heating coil but I wanted to know if that nylon cover protects the copper coil enough or would you prefer they could be cooled down during use.
I'm unsure what the purpose of cooling it is?!
Do they have attachments with different angles? The elements do they have different angles
All the heating elements are bendable. You can form them to fit almost anywhere.
This tool would be really cool but I’ve noticed every video that’s made the parts aren’t on the vehicle or equipment. Need something built where it can be used in tight spots 😊
My man, I have just the vehicle for this. We will get it done and the video posted. Check back or sub and enjoy. Thank you for the feedback!
diy magnetic induction heater
Solid review. Thanks!
Thank you for watching
No heat breaks the seal
If it won't budge, you can get the stuck nut hot and melt some candle wax right into the threads and give it some twist back and forth. You have a candle and a torch and might not need one of these contraptions.
Good school tip, Copperslip on threads helps too😎👍
@@richardrichard5409 I forgot about this comment, but the this trick helped me on my 68' ford truck!
How big can you make the adjustable coil? would you'll be able to make it big enough to go around the part of the manifold that flares out for the stud to thread into it? I'm really debating on purchasing one of these. I am kind of a jack of all trades and one of my trades is bladesmithing. I was wondering if I could shape the coil to soften the spine of my knives instead of having to put a torch on them and run the risk of overheating the edge. I know they make bigger ones for things like that but they're closer to $1,000 and the one you're using I found on Amazon for less than $200. I also do all of my own mechanical work as well as fabrication so I think one of these would be very useful for me
1:1 on the oxy acetylene will get that glowing in 15 secs
Appreciate the information
Add a little candle wax or paraffin wax to the threads. The wax gets pulled in by capillary action to help loosen and lubricate the threads.
You couldnt use the universal one to wrap around the ear of the manifold?
Look at the adjuster screw on your vice grip, there's a keyhole. You're supposed to clamp down with a hex, and it wont slip like that.
Ok
Great video, sir. I am currently working on my used Pontiac g3 2010 and am changing the rusty brake lines and fittings for new ones. Can I use this to heat up and remove the old brake line screws? I have been already spraying PB blaster and already tried nut and bolt extractors. Also, I am new to car DIY, if that detail is important.
Yes you can use it on any metal nut.
Can i use to braze copper?
I doubt it. Maybe solder some thin wall copper but I doubt brazing.
@@andersonsgarage2334 thanks
Hold the torch closer to the nut, then do a re test.
To get the bolt out of the manafold you need the freeze it. Heating it will cause it to expand and make it tighter.
The oxyacetylene torch removed it with ease. Thank you for your suggestion.
Or heat the manifold , not the stud.
Heating the bolt stretches the length which loosens the threads
@@greenbudkelly2820 You don't heat the stud you heat the nut to expand it. Heating the stud would probably cause it to snap off.
I agree
In regards to the acetylene vs induction test . Why not put the flame closer?
There also was too much oxigen in the flame! The test was not really fair, but i would still choose the inductor
2 things
1 i would like to have seen you try to take it off before the heat
you said that was heavily rusted, thats a joke
that was surface rust , that was nowhere near heavily rusted
2 do you actually understand what the heat does to make it easier to remove the nut ?
heat causes the nut to expand making it easier to come off
so applying heat to the stud was expanding the stud in the manifold
thats why you heat the manifold and NOT the stud
maybe go back to school
This is FAKE.
Those nuts did NOT look like they were rusted on that badly. I don't believe the heat was needed. You did not record any attempt to remove the nuts before adding heat. Same for the studs, which looked new. Why did yoh switch manifolds. The first one had studs that were truly rated in.
Fake? I'm confused by your statement. We were simply showing the induction heater. Nothing about it was fake. We switched manifolds, yes. That wasn't any sort of trick. It was another sbc manifold with rusted nuts. I think maybe you should rewatch the video. We made no claims that these couldn't be removed by any other means.
The point wasnt the rust, the point was to show how the tool can heat nuts in general to the point they are cherry red hot, without the need out a torch
Maybe if ya held the oxygen flame at the ideal distance it would have been an accurate test
If that got those exhaust bolts off im sold
Turn the vise grip around next time