I think the "gearing" is like 13/38, at least on the 3mm version. It seems many have bad experiences with this because they dont change anything else to compensate. Or they have the belt too tight...loose is good! Nice job explaining it all out. I had to change the "spur" shaft on the Amazon Dig trans to make it work, did you?
The topshaft was changed so I could run Associated gears (I have a lot of them) but you wouldn't need to to run the belt drive, it would just drop in. I had to fiddle with it to get the part I was changing to work with the part I had already changed. Yeah, I'm guessing anyone not happy with the belt drive either put it in something not realizing it was basically like going up about 6 teeth on the pinion, and/or ran the belt super tight. As long as the belt can't jump off of the cogs, it's tight enough.
Going to belt drive as perscibed by the Canyon for portal axle use. Have an Amazon dig unit installed, any special instructions for installation or is it a straightforward process? Gratsi!
It might still be just the gearing itself that counts? I’ve gone from traditional track gears on the bike (12/13/14 - 50/51/52) to modern big gears (16/17/18 - 62/63/64) and the extra links in the chain don’t appear to have influenced the setup beyond reduced friction from shallower movements as long as the ratio of the circle sizes is still the same. Probably the same with the belted change? Actually I just melted my brain thinking about what would happen with a direct cog on chainring and if it would change the ratio/roll out in addition to reversing the drive direction. Disregard?
When I try to think about it in bike terms, the chain doesn't matter-- so I hope that the belt doesn't matter here either. But then the self-doubt creeps in. If I counted correctly, it's an oddball number of splines on the small and large cogs-- 15 and 36 (I think) -- so the ratio is pretty low, 2.4:1. Great for something really low KV, though. Also, those are the splines on the cogs for the small-tooth belt-- I forgot to check the bigger splines on the others, but I imagine it's around the same ratio.
I'm trying to figure out a motor suitable to pairing a belt drive with a TRX-4 Sport gearbox. The Sport is already too fast with a 3:54:1 spur-to-pinion, so dropping that to 2.5:1 is kinda crazy. I guess unless the rig is only for trailing? All of my TRX-4 boxes are 45T spur, and no pinion bigger than an 11T.
@@tomv3361 Have driven just fine until I drove in the snow and then smoke the belt, are unsure if there was too much force for the belt ?? I have switched to original pin/spur.
I made a am32 with a max45 esc and added it to a 2250kv motor i was trying get the cogging to go from slow to normal mode it works pretty good i added a heat sink to it installed in my trx4 with a stock pinion and spur what pinion should i try
I'm running the smallest possible pinion in all of my TRX-4s-- a 9T. Oh, and if your TRX-4 is a sport, change out the spur for the 45T from the 2-speed models. MUCH better.
Capra axles with UD gears in the rear. 4WS. I built up custom frame rails. It's using a Vader delrin skid which if memory serves is for a Redcat Everest. Amazon dig gearbox, 760kv outrunner and an AG Innovations Ninja ESC. Wheelbase is that of an SCT, 13.2".
I think I'm using... four of these right now? Set belt tension just tight enough to not skip and there's zero issue. If people are getting bearing failure, it's because they're running the belt too tight.
so the cogs of the belt drives, depending on the unit, have a drive ratio between 2.6:1 and 2.3:1. So if you have stock Sport gearing, you might not even notice. If you’re running the stock 11/45 on a Defender, Bronco, etc, it will be like your rig drank rocket fuel. Also, I can’t say whether or not it will fit- I’ve never put one on a TRX-4 because I’m always trying to gear them down, not up.
I can't remember if during this video it was on the 900kv or the 760kv-- but either way, it's a Flash Hobby 3648. Massive torque. ESC is an AG Innovations Ninja. Oh, and running 4S. I wouldn't go that low of kv on say 3S.
The edges are all sealed, and I would guess it was cut with a waterjet. I don't see any toolmarks that would make me think machined-- and carbon is hell on tooling. I don't have capacitors on any of my AM32s, including the ones on 4S.
I like your channel because of your dialogue. I can tell you are a real player and not an npc.
This just popped up in my feed. I haven’t missed an episode in 2 years but this one got by me
Just received mine, gonna be testing it on an FTX Fury "trail" rig, quite heavy too.
wonder if you mix an match pulleys with those 2 belt drives
I think the "gearing" is like 13/38, at least on the 3mm version. It seems many have bad experiences with this because they dont change anything else to compensate. Or they have the belt too tight...loose is good! Nice job explaining it all out. I had to change the "spur" shaft on the Amazon Dig trans to make it work, did you?
The topshaft was changed so I could run Associated gears (I have a lot of them) but you wouldn't need to to run the belt drive, it would just drop in. I had to fiddle with it to get the part I was changing to work with the part I had already changed.
Yeah, I'm guessing anyone not happy with the belt drive either put it in something not realizing it was basically like going up about 6 teeth on the pinion, and/or ran the belt super tight. As long as the belt can't jump off of the cogs, it's tight enough.
Going to belt drive as perscibed by the Canyon for portal axle use. Have an Amazon dig unit installed, any special instructions for installation or is it a straightforward process? Gratsi!
Just don't make the belt too tight. You want it just tight enough not to slip.
Hmmmm. I gotta say.
That's cool.
So many thing in full size are very driven.
Lots of tools are even.
So why not an rc.
It might still be just the gearing itself that counts? I’ve gone from traditional track gears on the bike (12/13/14 - 50/51/52) to modern big gears (16/17/18 - 62/63/64) and the extra links in the chain don’t appear to have influenced the setup beyond reduced friction from shallower movements as long as the ratio of the circle sizes is still the same. Probably the same with the belted change? Actually I just melted my brain thinking about what would happen with a direct cog on chainring and if it would change the ratio/roll out in addition to reversing the drive direction. Disregard?
When I try to think about it in bike terms, the chain doesn't matter-- so I hope that the belt doesn't matter here either. But then the self-doubt creeps in.
If I counted correctly, it's an oddball number of splines on the small and large cogs-- 15 and 36 (I think) -- so the ratio is pretty low, 2.4:1. Great for something really low KV, though. Also, those are the splines on the cogs for the small-tooth belt-- I forgot to check the bigger splines on the others, but I imagine it's around the same ratio.
Use it in a TRX-4 Sport and works just fine .12T - 30T. Paid 6.84$ with shipping 14.33$.
I'm trying to figure out a motor suitable to pairing a belt drive with a TRX-4 Sport gearbox. The Sport is already too fast with a 3:54:1 spur-to-pinion, so dropping that to 2.5:1 is kinda crazy. I guess unless the rig is only for trailing? All of my TRX-4 boxes are 45T spur, and no pinion bigger than an 11T.
How is it holding up?
@@tomv3361 Have driven just fine until I drove in the snow and then smoke the belt, are unsure if there was too much force for the belt ?? I have switched to original pin/spur.
I made a am32 with a max45 esc and added it to a 2250kv motor i was trying get the cogging to go from slow to normal mode it works pretty good i added a heat sink to it installed in my trx4 with a stock pinion and spur what pinion should i try
I'm running the smallest possible pinion in all of my TRX-4s-- a 9T.
Oh, and if your TRX-4 is a sport, change out the spur for the 45T from the 2-speed models. MUCH better.
Thank you
What is Zoidberg? Axles,chassis,skidplate etc
Capra axles with UD gears in the rear. 4WS. I built up custom frame rails. It's using a Vader delrin skid which if memory serves is for a Redcat Everest. Amazon dig gearbox, 760kv outrunner and an AG Innovations Ninja ESC. Wheelbase is that of an SCT, 13.2".
How did it hold up? Any problems with extensive bearing wear?
I think I'm using... four of these right now? Set belt tension just tight enough to not skip and there's zero issue. If people are getting bearing failure, it's because they're running the belt too tight.
@@CrawlerCanyon Just wondering if it's worth using on a 7 lbs trx-4. The battery life is a little shorter too I assume.
so the cogs of the belt drives, depending on the unit, have a drive ratio between 2.6:1 and 2.3:1. So if you have stock Sport gearing, you might not even notice. If you’re running the stock 11/45 on a Defender, Bronco, etc, it will be like your rig drank rocket fuel.
Also, I can’t say whether or not it will fit- I’ve never put one on a TRX-4 because I’m always trying to gear them down, not up.
I am all about my rigs being quite.
Ooh, got a partial face shot! I think that's a first.
He's like Wilson on Home Improvement.
I'm gonna have a word with that editor! "Nameless guy, your job is to maintain the faceless nature of the other guy!"
@@CrawlerCanyon, you could always employ those green screen head covers. Then, should it happen again you could replace your face with...anything!
I have one in my trx4 lol
What outrunner is that your using
And esc
I can't remember if during this video it was on the 900kv or the 760kv-- but either way, it's a Flash Hobby 3648. Massive torque. ESC is an AG Innovations Ninja. Oh, and running 4S. I wouldn't go that low of kv on say 3S.
11 dollars plus 9 shipping is nearly 25 dollars. Ah yes import tax from over seas. might as well try it too
No sound ? You jokin? It squieks every higher rpm ha ha!
You did pay attention long enough to see that there's a big outrunner in there, right? The belt drive doesn't make any sound at all.
Hi. Comment 👍
That chassis looks like some 8year old cut it for a school project....lol and still no Capacitator on the ESC...You are asking for trouble, man!
The edges are all sealed, and I would guess it was cut with a waterjet. I don't see any toolmarks that would make me think machined-- and carbon is hell on tooling.
I don't have capacitors on any of my AM32s, including the ones on 4S.
@@CrawlerCanyon then keep your fingers crossed,👍